600 WHATS? Atorch DL24M Electronic Load First Look
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ย. 2021
- Just doing a quick look video on this Atorch DL24M electronic load from Banggood. This thing is leaps and bounds better than the old load Banggood had sent me not just because of the over 4x power dissipation capacity but also because of the MUCH better software control.
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I'm glad you mounted those things together. I think that was a good move and will make that a lot more practical. I don't love my electronic load. I may be looking to upgrade.
Thank you for showing the set up part, jumpers and holding m whilst turning on etc. I have just pick up a 300w unit from aliexpress and needed help. Your great!
Just bought one of these, also in the 600W 4-Module version. Apparently, the units have recently been upgraded. This video is a great intro, especially with the initial setup. Thanks.
Hi mate. Mine just came in the mail. Just wanted to thank you for your setup video really helped me out 👍🏻
Also just noticed the boards aren’t actually bent they have just not allowed for the 2mm board thickness when connecting the boards.
I'm sooo glad you posted how to get to the other wattages! I was really annoyed that all I could get was 150 watts from my 600 watt load tester!
Glad I could help!
Great video 👏👏👏
Informative video, thanks!
Yep, it could use a case but great first look....cheers.
I just got my load with 4 modules. That wattage selection will come in handy soon as I'm about to bolt it together, thanks for the info. These things have been upgraded. They now have 4 mosfets instead of 1 per module. Much better looking design. I have 2 150w loads, the oldest one I have replaced mosfets quite a few times before, so I'm hoping these can now handle what they claim. My newer 150w load is an ATORCH and has just the 1 mosfet like yours, and I can only run it at about 130w before it goes above 70c. Above 70c is where I'm popping mosfets.
Merci pour la présentation 👍
To anyone trying to get those screws in, get another person OR get some painters tape, to put over the screws to hold them in place. then you can flip it over and start the nuts. To start the nuts, use a pencil with some tape on the eraser sticky side out, to stick the nut onto ,so you can spin it right on. this made it easy. Two of the little feet will need some spacers the thickness of the board, because two boards are on top of the others. the top retaining legs of the little plastic feet, can be snipped back the length of the added spacer , to retain it in the hole.
I stacked them on top of each other, You have to do some wiring but looks clean also I used nylon standoffs.
Neat video! Would have used your affiliate link if I hadn't ordered this already.
One question though, will it be okay to connect different modules using some thick wires instead of screw mounts? And for how long they can be put on max load before their MOSFETs temp goes alarmingly high?
That's how I plan on doing it!
Hi, do you know where the "Fan Temp" sensor is located (from the name I think it's measuring ambient temp.)? Mine stopped working correctly and shows 300 degrees from startup, without any load. Is there a way to disable the alarm for the "Fan Temp"?
Neat load tester. I was wondering if you could build it into a cube with the fans on each side and the display on top ?
Was thinking exactly that but 2 back-to-back with 2
@@SimpleElectronics Yeah, That should work.
Nice and detailed explanation. Could you make a detailed review of the product from Bangood "DL24EW 150W Tuya WiFi Smart Power Electronic Load Tester"???
Is there a usb or serial put out on main module?
thanks for this clear video. I want to buy this for testing the battery of electric scooters/choppers , how do i apply the settings and how to read data with the app on the smartphone (i am clearly not a technician 😞) Tech data: Engine: 1200 watts/60 volts and Lithium battery: 20 AH/60 volts. Thanks for your reply
are the boards bent because the stands do not seem to take into account the board thickness difference when bolted on top of the centre one??
Nope the boards are a banana before you even bolt them together
Hi and congratulations for your video.
I would like to know if you had also tried the Windows PC application based on the Bluetooh connection and if so from where you can download it
a friendly greeting
Ezio
I have not - I hate installing random software!
Hello friend, thanks for your test, I would like you to tell me if when the voltage drops below the established voltage the discharge stops or it only gives an alarm, thank you very much.
Just stops
well since i have the dps5020 can you give any advice what you use to power that 6018 you have?
www.banggood.com/custlink/DmGRbdoq4Z I use this one
@3:40 - I need to up my game!
Lol.
apparently the extra boards have only connection , a mosfet, heatsink, fan connector and a PCB with large traces to handle the amps. i don't think that the extra boards have anything else just a mosfet with heatsink to share the current, but the couldn't fit all the mosfets in a single board (it would be expensive also). jumper maybe gives access to extra amps in software as an option. i believe you can hack the main board with some wires and a big heatsink with 2-3 mosfets as an update to the main board. but again I don't know how much power should be dissipated in a single heatsink.
I think the heatsinks are maxed out at 150W for sure
I orderd 150W, overall good device, but I noticed some iritating bugs like :
- while discharging battery, I set treshold voltage, when test finish (finish message appear) fan remain ON permanently, it will not turn OFF untill I confirm message, so it can run for hours if I'm not near device
- durring battery testing "big battery option", can not perform last test (i think it is on 12A) because overpower (>150W) protection activates (car battery testing). Since this test is very short, device should temporary override this protection, or at least increase it to let say 200W.
- while recording data on PC via BT, some data are temporary lost, values suddenly read as 0, which makes big mess on a graph.
What model sir?
that's last year's model too I think. hahaha awesome music hahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahaha. the hidden joke doesn't escape me either with the music
One major flaw with DL24 and DL24P is voltage resolution on data output is only 0.1. For Display it is 0.001 but not for data. This means you can't really make nice graphs from the data for analysis purposes. And isn't that really the primary purpose of this device? They need to fix this.
Thanks for the heads up I'll have a look - I don't typically install the software provided with these items but I make have to
If all three boards are mounted to the bottom of the main board would it be more stable?
Nope unfortunately, the boards are all banana shaped. It's hard to show because zooming out far enough has a bit of a distorted look
bonjour pas facile de comprendre avec le sous titres, bref ! j'ai acheté le modèle 150w malheureusement il a fonctionné 15 minutes, maintenant si je met une cellule dessus le ventilateur ce met en marche toute suite et la cellule chauffe dangereusement en quelques secondes
bizarrement il ce met en marche normalement le ventilateur tourne quelques secondes au démarrage l'écran est bien allumé j'ai également accès au réglage
est-ce possible que ce soit juste un mauvais paramétrage 🤔
merci une éventuelle aide 👀
I just got the single module one in the mail. I bought the fanless one. I plan to put a giant heatsink from an old Alienware on it after I change the mosfet and do some other mods. I also have liquid metal instead of shitty boron paste.
ps. the wife ordered me a 3090 on a half price sale muwhahaha
No internal Resistance on this unit. The DL24 150W appears to have it.
Im only able to get it to 500W when testing a 24v battery bank. Wont let me go to 600W. Very odd.
That is odd, mine seems to work
Mine will not go above 150w in the settings max power no matter how many stages are connected …. Did you just simply press + and it moved up all the way to 600w
Have you followed all the steps in the video? with the jumper and the start-up sequence?
@@SimpleElectronics how stupid am I 😂 skipped right over the first part of the video because i was like …. Well he is just talkin About it
MINE IS the , DL24M-H 2-200V 600W , purple and it has a 1200 jumper. it also has a 2 amp charger. I need help finding a good video and or instruction manual. of course it came with nothing.
It’s configurable up to 1200W
But the amp limit is 40A if you have one control module
@@ericklein5097How so? I'm looking at getting the DLB600 and being able to do 1200w would be a god send.
Did you test Bluetooth?
Not yet, I'm not a fan of connecting stuff to my phone, i will eventually when I get a 'beater' phone
strip it with yo thumb nail