Thanks Jim. I appreciate the info you gave and the walkthrough. Notes I took that will be helpful: 10mm socket 5/8" spark plug socket 13 ft/lb torgue (or a quarter to a half turn) NGK Laser Iridium spark plug
Nicely done. I appreciate that you provided enough lighting to see what you were doing. Good camera angle as well. This is probably the best video I've seen on replacing the spark plugs on a CR-V. We have a 2011 with 188,000 miles and I'm about to do its first tune-up. (It still runs great!)
Hi Jim. I saw another video that showed the guy lifting the coil up slightly before he un pluged them. Looked easier. You are appreciated as a Honda CRV owner. Max
I just needed to know where the plugs were hiding lol. I had a feeling they were underneath that cover! Adding the anti-seize is a MUST on these Hondas! And definitely only use the Copper formula. It's for preventing what's called galling. A very common problem when installing stainless steel fasteners into an aluminum part. Pressure builds up between the threads as you torque the fasteners and this pressure/heat breaks down the protective oxide layer of the metals, which allows them to easily cold weld together. Thanks for the vid!
No, do not use anti seize with ngk plugs. They don’t need them. The plating on the threads acts the same as anti seize. Plus, you risk the chance of over torquing or stripping the threads in the head.
@@ohboy2592Jim said to use anti seize on the (a) retainer bolts going into the head, not on the (b) ngk plugs, so these are two different things,(a) and (b) . For now I'll not put any anti-seize on the (b) ngk plugs. Should I put anti-seize on the retainer bolts? I can add the anti-seize later by just taking them out, putting on anti-seize and putting them in again.
Also, I forgot to mention the rubber boots. These are only about $6 each, and I am going to replace those as well. The boot has a small metal spring too. These wear out, even if the coil is still OK. Jim, can you include these boots and the little spring perhaps on another video. For now, I'll look these up elsewhere. The NAPA guy said it was pretty easy to replace the boot and spring, just putting them back on like you took them off.
Question is difficult to remove the plastic clips for the coil packs is it easy to break just wondering I think I’m going to change my plugs soon. Thanks
This video made it look so easy. When I attempted to remove the cover, 3 of the crown bolts snapped off. I'm guessing that this is mostly decorative anyway :-/
Soaking those bolts in a little bit of wd40 will most likely work if you are in that spot again where the bolts down want to give. Soak, nudge, soak, nudge etc. I've broken bolts before and now if it means slowly doing this for an hour or two then so be it.
At 1:49 it seems that you leave a lot to be desired. You don't say what tool you're using or what you're doing exactly. I applied lots of pressure on two sides to get a connector off and heard a snap. I might've destroyed something. With one off, I have an idea that the other three are being firmly held in, but I still don't know what to do about it. And maybe my car's already wrecked. I'll have to hope another video tells how to get the connectors off.
I found the answer. There's a lever on the top or whatever you call it. A little piece is stuck in it, making it very stubborn, unwilling to come out. Apply pressure carefully on the outside downward and watch the other side of the lever rise so that the piece isn't stuck in. Then pull the plug off. Maybe my directions are bad but I tried. I don't have the advantage of a visual demonstration like you did. But now a different problem, I put in a spark plug beautifully, but then the spark plug socket stayed with it. Maybe I should comment again after I solve the new problem?
I don't know whether I should tell my solution or not but I guess I will. First, take the spark plug out. Second yank the spark plug out of the socket. Third drop the spark plug in where it's supposed to go and hope that it falls correctly. Then put the socket slightly on top of it, barely enough to turn it. Perhaps turn a little counterclockwise first to try to adjust it in case it fell in a little off. Then without applying much pressure, turn clockwise till it's hand-tight. Then take the socket out before putting the torque wrench on it (because the force of putting the torque wrench on would lock the socket onto the spark plug if you don't. Then lightly put the socket onto the spark plug before tightening. Then take the socket off and hope that it comes off instead of staying attached to the spark plug. I kind of wonder why so many here don't mention a single difficulty and I've had two. Maybe poorer tools than most have and older, dirtier connectors than most worked with?
I guess I should have another message post-work. I looked at that first connector, and while I had damaged it some from all of the measures I took to get it out, including use of a smooth-head pliers, and while I had heard some kind of snap or something while it was forced out, it didn't look extremely damaged. Additionally, it went back in okay, snapping into place. After I completed all of the work, I was able to start the car. I even moved it a little. I think I've lucked out, but then again, maybe with my mistake, I'm running on 3 spark plugs. I guess time will tell. Cheers!
@@JimTheune It's now roughly a 14-year-old car and therefore probably contains less movable and dirtier connector levers than the young connectors that you worked on when you first replaced your spark plugs. Levers that are clean and move easily can be more easily figured out. All this said, many comments here say things like "very well done, thanks for the great explanation" so hey, maybe I'm pretty much the only one who actually needs the camera to show me what on earth you're doing...
Why would you ever use a power tool or something that does not take more than arm strength to turn at your gut yourself for using a power tool that makes no sense at all
Thanks Jim. I appreciate the info you gave and the walkthrough.
Notes I took that will be helpful:
10mm socket
5/8" spark plug socket
13 ft/lb torgue (or a quarter to a half turn)
NGK Laser Iridium spark plug
Nicely done. I appreciate that you provided enough lighting to see what you were doing. Good camera angle as well. This is probably the best video I've seen on replacing the spark plugs on a CR-V. We have a 2011 with 188,000 miles and I'm about to do its first tune-up. (It still runs great!)
Thanks for the Explanation, the last one I watched all he did was take it off and put them in, wasted 15 minutes. Seems very easy, again, thanks
Hi Jim. I saw another video that showed the guy lifting the coil up slightly before he un pluged them. Looked easier. You are appreciated as a Honda CRV owner. Max
I am usually a GM man, so I appreciate the Plug tour. THX
It is helpful and I really appreciate your way to do and teach, thank you sir.
I just needed to know where the plugs were hiding lol. I had a feeling they were underneath that cover! Adding the anti-seize is a MUST on these Hondas! And definitely only use the Copper formula. It's for preventing what's called galling. A very common problem when installing stainless steel fasteners into an aluminum part. Pressure builds up between the threads as you torque the fasteners and this pressure/heat breaks down the protective oxide layer of the metals, which allows them to easily cold weld together. Thanks for the vid!
why only the copper formula? regular antiseize won’t suffice?
No, do not use anti seize with ngk plugs. They don’t need them. The plating on the threads acts the same as anti seize. Plus, you risk the chance of over torquing or stripping the threads in the head.
@@ohboy2592Jim said to use anti seize on the (a) retainer bolts going into the head, not on the (b) ngk plugs, so these are two different things,(a) and (b) . For now I'll not put any anti-seize on the (b) ngk plugs. Should I put anti-seize on the retainer bolts? I can add the anti-seize later by just taking them out, putting on anti-seize and putting them in again.
Also, I forgot to mention the rubber boots. These are only about $6 each, and I am going to replace those as well. The boot has a small metal spring too. These wear out, even if the coil is still OK. Jim, can you include these boots and the little spring perhaps on another video. For now, I'll look these up elsewhere. The NAPA guy said it was pretty easy to replace the boot and spring, just putting them back on like you took them off.
@@troydeckert7273 I would,yes
Just came across your channel as I was doing a crv spark plug change, great content hope you make more videos
Than you Sr ! This video is very helpful , muchas gracias y muy agradecido.
I like this video. Very easy to follow. With the presentation quality and the mailman alert doggo, I subscribed. :D
Thanks a lot for this video, I just bought a hunda just like that one and I wanted to see how the sparks plugs were done, you have another fan, thanks
Thank you. Great guide for a fairly simple repair.
Thank you for the video I really needed to know that
Your explanation is much appreciated. Thanks.
What did the old plugs look like when you took them out and how many miles on the old plugs? Very helpful video. Thanks.
The plugs had normal wear, but worked good. Best to change before the failure.
@@JimTheune How many miles were on your old plugs?
Much better than your first video.
Thanks for the video!
What happen if it doesn't get changed? Mine is now 130000 km not sure previous owner changed or not. The book said due to be changed.
First you will use more fuel. Then you will lose power. Finally you might not be firing on all cylinders. Plugs can last a long time but not forever.
Question is difficult to remove the plastic clips for the coil packs is it easy to break just wondering I think I’m going to change my plugs soon. Thanks
@@deronburnett5588 Easier than most I have seen.
This video made it look so easy. When I attempted to remove the cover, 3 of the crown bolts snapped off. I'm guessing that this is mostly decorative anyway :-/
I am not sure how that happened. I heard the cover is to keep dust and water out. I would leave it in place without the broken bolts.
Mine is 160,000 miles with original NGK laser iridium. No problem...if it is not broken why fix it?
Soaking those bolts in a little bit of wd40 will most likely work if you are in that spot again where the bolts down want to give. Soak, nudge, soak, nudge etc. I've broken bolts before and now if it means slowly doing this for an hour or two then so be it.
Thank you, great video and explaining.
At 1:49 it seems that you leave a lot to be desired. You don't say what tool you're using or what you're doing exactly. I applied lots of pressure on two sides to get a connector off and heard a snap. I might've destroyed something. With one off, I have an idea that the other three are being firmly held in, but I still don't know what to do about it. And maybe my car's already wrecked. I'll have to hope another video tells how to get the connectors off.
I found the answer. There's a lever on the top or whatever you call it. A little piece is stuck in it, making it very stubborn, unwilling to come out. Apply pressure carefully on the outside downward and watch the other side of the lever rise so that the piece isn't stuck in. Then pull the plug off. Maybe my directions are bad but I tried. I don't have the advantage of a visual demonstration like you did.
But now a different problem, I put in a spark plug beautifully, but then the spark plug socket stayed with it. Maybe I should comment again after I solve the new problem?
I don't know whether I should tell my solution or not but I guess I will. First, take the spark plug out. Second yank the spark plug out of the socket. Third drop the spark plug in where it's supposed to go and hope that it falls correctly. Then put the socket slightly on top of it, barely enough to turn it. Perhaps turn a little counterclockwise first to try to adjust it in case it fell in a little off. Then without applying much pressure, turn clockwise till it's hand-tight. Then take the socket out before putting the torque wrench on it (because the force of putting the torque wrench on would lock the socket onto the spark plug if you don't. Then lightly put the socket onto the spark plug before tightening. Then take the socket off and hope that it comes off instead of staying attached to the spark plug.
I kind of wonder why so many here don't mention a single difficulty and I've had two. Maybe poorer tools than most have and older, dirtier connectors than most worked with?
I guess I should have another message post-work. I looked at that first connector, and while I had damaged it some from all of the measures I took to get it out, including use of a smooth-head pliers, and while I had heard some kind of snap or something while it was forced out, it didn't look extremely damaged. Additionally, it went back in okay, snapping into place. After I completed all of the work, I was able to start the car. I even moved it a little. I think I've lucked out, but then again, maybe with my mistake, I'm running on 3 spark plugs. I guess time will tell. Cheers!
It's a childproof connection, Look at it close up.
@@JimTheune It's now roughly a 14-year-old car and therefore probably contains less movable and dirtier connector levers than the young connectors that you worked on when you first replaced your spark plugs. Levers that are clean and move easily can be more easily figured out. All this said, many comments here say things like "very well done, thanks for the great explanation" so hey, maybe I'm pretty much the only one who actually needs the camera to show me what on earth you're doing...
How many miles were on your old plugs?
Jim you forgot on your video to connect the quiole back on before you put the cover on 🤔
Fore people that don't know about cars that's a no,no 👍
Quiole? I have never heard that word before, but your comment might help some people. Thanks
0000K.. made it look pretty simple , except taking the wires off..
A close up would be great, all I can see is your arm.
Why would you ever use a power tool or something that does not take more than arm strength to turn at your gut yourself for using a power tool that makes no sense at all
You don't offend me. I hope you learn to write.
I don't like because I can't see your work. The video was taken good. I'm sorry .
Wasn't taken good.
This video is a follow up to my original on the same topic. Please try the original on my channel.