Hi Rodian, my house was built around 1910-1920 and has cavity walls. 50mm cavity with blacksmith made wall ties every now and then. My parents house around the corner is 1930s and that's 9" solid. On the extension we built we used full fill cavity bats and did have a couple of areas that bridged due to some rogue snots that had rested ontop of the bats and bridged the water across from days of driving rain on the brickwork. We dug a block out on the inside to clear the mortar out and it's been great since. Defiantly attention must be taken to clear the snots off the brick/block in the cavity. Keep up the great videos. Cheers, Craig
Rodman, I've recently found your videos and I really appreciate your down to earth, no nonsense approach to getting over your knowledge to viewers. You don't pretend to know everything and acknowledge that there's things you can learn too. I'm looking to build my own single storey extension and am look forward to seeing your videos on the subject.
Great video again, Rodian. Love how you are using your channel as a learning experience just like the rest of us, we can all learn from each other, it's just that some folk like to pretend they already know it all! It's news to me about the butterfly tie being defunct now, I hadn't heard about the issues with it before, cheers for that!
I was taught 34years ago at college to place a lat in the cavity with string either end ,place on top of cavity ties and just before adding insulation pull up on the strings and it would remove any snots place insulation and repeat till at height,good vids mate
Looking forward to the extension videos, was going to use a builder to do one but feel I could do it myself, I'm a Sparky by trade but I have been around and worked with a lot of builders and picked up stuff long the way. Your videos are great as they simplify the methods so will be using these to help me. Keep up the good work bud.
Wall ties here in Utah USA consist of bendable flat corrugated metal for residential some times 9 wire spanning. Or for commercial adjustable height wall ties meaning a 4" plate screwed to the wall which triangular shape wire is fed through and into masonry once you reach height. The 2 pieces make it nice so your not fighting or snagging as you go. For double masonry it's either flat corrugated tie in the joints or hammer drilling holes followed by fasteners and either type of tie. Though safety glasses have saved my eyes from flat ties sticking out of the wall. Kind of hazardous if they aren't bent up.
here (South America) the wall ties are slightly different where the M/W is we have a tight coil with about 4 or 5 turns. Same wire so it can work like a spring, the condensation drops off the bottom also, but in an earthquake it is meant to let the walls flex a little whilst still holding them together..The idea (though i do not know the data on it) is that if a section is going to break during the tremor then a diamond sections of the one of the walls might fail but the other section might not... yes we use what i assume you are meaning by diamond. 900mm next course with a 450mm up with a 450mm off-set... but never thought of it as a diamond before just thought of it like when we put rebar in at a 45 degree angle.
Rodian you should do a video on wall ties pushed in the mortar and wall ties built in there is a huge difference and you can see the difference when taking the wall down. The wall ties stick to the blocks when built in and thep pull away from the blocks when pushed in. Hope that makes sense
So the kingspan insulation touch the inside wall and the gap is on the outside wall . If we have 100mm cavity wall and use 90mm kingspan insulation the air gap is 10mm but on the outside wall ? Is that right ?thank you
Always staggered mate, is the way a was taught, think you need to get some brick acid on that wall behind you starting to get moss 😂😂 video class as usual 👌
Because straight wall ties are stronger..? That's my guess 👍 I never heard that before about the benefit of a partial full That's my first video of yours. I'll be back 👌
Just a few comments about cavity walls.They are probably the best system there is,however,there are a few issues that need to be addressed. They function much better if there are vents at the base and tops of the walls to promote drainage and promote air circulation.Additionally,the wire binding the wythes will soon rot away.Even stainless thought as the belt and suspender approach is very short lived,Stainless corrodes exceptionally quick in a low oxygen environment,such as embedded in mortar joints. There is a U.K.firm ,Ancon,and a Russian firm Galen who produce basalt ties that circumvent that problem.Some may think of cavity walls as the new kid on the block,Vitruvius endorsed them about 2000 years ago. www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi086-vitruvius-does-veeners
Here in the UK, The building control people do no like to see vented cavities except where using weep holes for damp trays over openings. I agree with you though, cavities should be vented but it lowers the U-Value of the building which here is a no no.
Hey Rodian. Wicked series! You're a fantastic teacher and I'm really looking forward to seeing your other vids. Full disclosure, I'm not tradesman or bricky, but I really want to one day be able to do some DYI brickwork in my future home. Romanticism aside, would you need to put insulation in after brickwork is done and muck is dry? Probably a silly question, but I keep wondering how insulation goes in without damaging the wall ties if the muck is still wet/not fully dry.
In Australia, mainly two types of wall ties, one ties onto timber frames (brick veneer), another ties to another side of brick to bond them together (double brick).
I moved to Romania from the UK. We bought a house in my wife's home village for literally 6000 euro. Spent 10k fixing it up (only two and a half rooms -50sqm-ish). Want to build an extension but cavity walls aren't something done over here so trying to figure out how to do it myself.
On new builds here in Norfolk our NHBC inspector want’s 750 centres and in a straight line but yes I’ve been dragged up to do diagonal at 900. Can’t see the difference 👍🏻as long as it’s tied in.
I was always told the old ties had to be replaced by the new style (hrt4) because dirty bricklayers wouldn’t clean the backs of the brickwork off and the muck would fall down the cavity and catch on the ties a lot more, now I’ve taken many walls down with the old ties and so many of them have been filthy it’s no wonder why people got damp problems from a dirty wall tie, but they do hold a lot better than the new ones 😂
I was a builder about 12 years ago now retired, doing small extensions etc the building regs today are a whole new ball game glad I've not got to deal with it now I know a builder who was a very good tradesman, got sick of the modern regs and retired early
so if i wanted a brick wall showing on the interior and exterior of a home, should i use the same method for insulating in between an inner and outer row of bricks? any thoughts on using spray foam insulation between the bricks?
Hi Rodian, Some of the peaks and troughs seemed to be sandwidged in the insulation joint. Is this okay or should the tie be slid back a bit to let them drip into the cavity? Quick reply would be good as I am about to start me second row of blocks tomorrow and my ties go like the ones in your vid and I am thinking I may need to get a bigger size wall tie. PS on a totally separate topic, here is a vid you might like, around how to make a clamp that is similar to the BT slider type but you have a quick release on it which is pretty cool :).
Not a fan of the partial fill stuff it’s such a faff . All the new builds round here are blown in now so no insulation for the brickies to mess with . Great vid as always pal 🧱👍🏽
Im with you on the celotex thing. its a pain for many reasons. But blown in means its a mission to keep cavities clean. Rockwool for the win everytime -)
I agree with you on the insulation - I understand air is a great insulator - which is why it (or some other gas) fills double glazed windows and not foam, yeah I know you can't see through foam, but you get the idea. Like a lot of these things, it was probably the brainchild of someone wanting to make money and inventing a solution for problem that didn't exist.
My house is built 1900, and it has a 100mm cavity!!! I think the gable and rear wall have cast iron ties, and the front stone wall is tied with the stone from the front wall to the brick inner wall. Crazy.....
Generally the thickness of the walls are outlined in the architectural drawings but the generally rule is 100mm inner and outer walls with a 100mm cavity between them. Obviously there are variations but that is the general sizing
Yeh it’s much better to partial fill the cavity as you say rather than getting damp bridging…im really surprised that building regulations allow full fill cavity! It’s bound to get damp after a period of time! The wall ties I just thought it changed due to the water dripping off in the middle with the drip notches nothing else …
House extension under building control and built in masonary requires cavity wall in UK, due to its thermal performance, structural safety and prevention ofwater ingress. A standalone garden office would usually be built in timber framing.
aren't the wall ties the wrong way round? I.e. the bent piece should be on the outer wall side so that any water drips off before reaching the insulation - the way you have it hear it would drip on the insulation
It depends what you are building, if it's an extension I highly doubt the inspector would allow the cavity to be hollow. If the exterior is painted I doubt water will seep through. If left as just brick, some are more porous than others hence why water could soak through
@@RodianBuilds umm.. The building is a new one. A residence. The formworks are complete and brick work's gonna start soon. I intend to keep the cavity hollow with jalis on the exterior wall (At the bottom and at the top) So that on warm days there will be air flow inside the cavity. Will it be effective? Thank u🔥
Probably of no point but I brought my first house in Wales (uk) and it had 1m yes 1 meter thick walls. Made from solid stone no cavity just stone apon stone. Funny as hell when the sky man came out to fit the dish. Dumb ass drilled through the wall and destroyed so many sds bits. Instead of just drilling in the corner of the 100mm wooden window inlay....
Never ever saw batt insulation in USA. I’m at this 49 years. I think when batts get wet R value will go down. Those ties seem weaker than what we generally use in the USA. They also place stresses in the wall because the have no adjustability vertically. Stress in the wall vertically develops when the sun heats exterior face and the interior wall remains cool there are different rates of expansion vertically.
I hear a lot of differences between the way USA and UK work. I find it very interesting. My guess is a lot of climate differences must call for different products to be used
Can you teach how to do brickwork for a window with 2 leaf. I am told Gap on inside wall is 10mm back from outside wall (i.e. stop window fall out). Would you maybe recommend a flush inside/outside leaf also i.e. so window can be installed from inside or outside
I'm building a medium sized brick and block bar with a cavity wall, shall I add 2 air bricks opposite walls? Floor will be suspended and insulated between joists.
( Ties )Shouldn’t bend them up, you should no !! the whole reason for that is damp passing down tie to inner skin, ties should only bend downward from block skin,
Re the wires ties.economics.cheaper and efficient to produce the thermal efficient tie as apposed to the butterfly. However its like saying I'm running te London marathon but in order to save weight and be more efficient I'm gonna shave off my eyebrows. All boils down to their calculated strength as ties.
you cant use solid cavity insulation (Celotex) when you use buterfly ties. I much prefer rockwool cavity insulation. You get no gaps between the batts like you do with celotex (I usually have to tape the joints) and you get no mortar droppings in the cavity. Its far easier to install between the ties and makes the task of fitting cavity closers simple. But the main reason is you can build the brickwork before the blockwork which is a far more accurate way to set out window and door openings imo, Unfortunately rockwool does not have the same U-Value as celotex.
I think both have their pros and cons. The main thing that I like about the celotex is the foil back to reflect heat in/out and the fact you can have a partial fill cavity. Guess its whatever it says on the plans 😁👍🏻🧱
Jack Davis takes more skill being able to freehand a corner with a level than just following a profile.... plus where is he going to put his profile on the concrete slab 😂
Every new build is now for wall ties 600 mm apart by 450mm gauge wise, every 225mm on any reveal and every 225 mm on the expansion joint within 225mm off centre of the expansion Keep them in line not staggered I personally think having wall ties staggered gives the building a better and stronger structure And with wheep holes its every 2 bricks now not 4 AND A LOT OF HEALTH AND SAFETY BOLLOCKS!
We dont have those regs on the 3 new builds im doing. Every 900 horizontal and 450 vertical for ties. Every 225 on reveals, corners and expansions. Staggered placement. Old school. On a job I did last year, the building control fella told me expansion joints should be a minimum of 3 meters from the corner in brickwork But on one of the jobs Im on now, there are 4 expansion joints, 2 on each flank and they are just 3 bricks from the corners....... I think they make it up as they go along.
@@SilverTrowel631 down south where I'm based is slightly different but you can't go against them These development companies have their own rules and most of the time they come up with some silly bollocks It's just an overkill nowdays with new build
So you unsubscribe and dislike every youtuber that has adverts? Do you not think we should be allowed to make money for the large amount of work that goes into making videos for TH-cam?
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Hi Rodian, my house was built around 1910-1920 and has cavity walls. 50mm cavity with blacksmith made wall ties every now and then. My parents house around the corner is 1930s and that's 9" solid. On the extension we built we used full fill cavity bats and did have a couple of areas that bridged due to some rogue snots that had rested ontop of the bats and bridged the water across from days of driving rain on the brickwork. We dug a block out on the inside to clear the mortar out and it's been great since. Defiantly attention must be taken to clear the snots off the brick/block in the cavity. Keep up the great videos. Cheers, Craig
Best tip in all of this,, do not piss off building control because they will piss you off right back.
Rodman, I've recently found your videos and I really appreciate your down to earth, no nonsense approach to getting over your knowledge to viewers. You don't pretend to know everything and acknowledge that there's things you can learn too. I'm looking to build my own single storey extension and am look forward to seeing your videos on the subject.
The best and most useful video I've seen on TH-cam, well done and thank you .
Great video again, Rodian. Love how you are using your channel as a learning experience just like the rest of us, we can all learn from each other, it's just that some folk like to pretend they already know it all! It's news to me about the butterfly tie being defunct now, I hadn't heard about the issues with it before, cheers for that!
In depth, high quality, top class
I was taught 34years ago at college to place a lat in the cavity with string either end ,place on top of cavity ties and just before adding insulation pull up on the strings and it would remove any snots place insulation and repeat till at height,good vids mate
Looking forward to the extension videos, was going to use a builder to do one but feel I could do it myself, I'm a Sparky by trade but I have been around and worked with a lot of builders and picked up stuff long the way. Your videos are great as they simplify the methods so will be using these to help me. Keep up the good work bud.
Interesting to watch. Learnt a lot. Easy to understand and made a lot of sense.
Very helpful was looking for this info long time but no one did such a good and informative video as you did big thanks!
Any thermal engineer will tell you that insulation works much better with an air gap, so partial cavity filling is the way to go.
I'm also guessing that the air flow will help with moisture control?
Wall ties here in Utah USA consist of bendable flat corrugated metal for residential some times 9 wire spanning. Or for commercial adjustable height wall ties meaning a 4" plate screwed to the wall which triangular shape wire is fed through and into masonry once you reach height. The 2 pieces make it nice so your not fighting or snagging as you go.
For double masonry it's either flat corrugated tie in the joints or hammer drilling holes followed by fasteners and either type of tie.
Though safety glasses have saved my eyes from flat ties sticking out of the wall. Kind of hazardous if they aren't bent up.
here (South America) the wall ties are slightly different where the M/W is we have a tight coil with about 4 or 5 turns. Same wire so it can work like a spring, the condensation drops off the bottom also, but in an earthquake it is meant to let the walls flex a little whilst still holding them together..The idea (though i do not know the data on it) is that if a section is going to break during the tremor then a diamond sections of the one of the walls might fail but the other section might not... yes we use what i assume you are meaning by diamond. 900mm next course with a 450mm up with a 450mm off-set... but never thought of it as a diamond before just thought of it like when we put rebar in at a 45 degree angle.
Rodian you should do a video on wall ties pushed in the mortar and wall ties built in there is a huge difference and you can see the difference when taking the wall down. The wall ties stick to the blocks when built in and thep pull away from the blocks when pushed in. Hope that makes sense
The job I'm on, if they see the ties been pushed in,, it has to be drilled out resin fixed in place😳
So the kingspan insulation touch the inside wall and the gap is on the outside wall . If we have 100mm cavity wall and use 90mm kingspan insulation the air gap is 10mm but on the outside wall ? Is that right ?thank you
Fantastic, interesting video and very informative. Learnt a lot from your experience. Thanks a lot 🏠👌.
Very good explanations. Well done.
Always staggered mate, is the way a was taught, think you need to get some brick acid on that wall behind you starting to get moss 😂😂 video class as usual 👌
Good video - looking forward to your series on how to build your own extension 👌👍
is that a brick youtube logo? that's brilliant
Because straight wall ties are stronger..?
That's my guess 👍
I never heard that before about the benefit of a partial full
That's my first video of yours. I'll be back 👌
Just a few comments about cavity walls.They are probably the best system there is,however,there are a few issues that need to be addressed. They function much better if there are vents at the base and tops of the walls to promote drainage and promote air circulation.Additionally,the wire binding the wythes will soon rot away.Even stainless thought as the belt and suspender approach is very short lived,Stainless corrodes exceptionally quick in a low oxygen environment,such as embedded in mortar joints. There is a U.K.firm ,Ancon,and a Russian firm Galen who produce basalt ties that circumvent that problem.Some may think of cavity walls as the new kid on the block,Vitruvius endorsed them about 2000 years ago. www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi086-vitruvius-does-veeners
Here in the UK, The building control people do no like to see vented cavities except where using weep holes for damp trays over openings.
I agree with you though, cavities should be vented but it lowers the U-Value of the building which here is a no no.
Hey Rodian. Wicked series! You're a fantastic teacher and I'm really looking forward to seeing your other vids. Full disclosure, I'm not tradesman or bricky, but I really want to one day be able to do some DYI brickwork in my future home. Romanticism aside, would you need to put insulation in after brickwork is done and muck is dry? Probably a silly question, but I keep wondering how insulation goes in without damaging the wall ties if the muck is still wet/not fully dry.
In Australia, mainly two types of wall ties, one ties onto timber frames (brick veneer), another ties to another side of brick to bond them together (double brick).
Are you just using a sand/lime mix like they do in college? Don't that get lumpy without being crushed up?
I moved to Romania from the UK.
We bought a house in my wife's home village for literally 6000 euro.
Spent 10k fixing it up (only two and a half rooms -50sqm-ish).
Want to build an extension but cavity walls aren't something done over here so trying to figure out how to do it myself.
On new builds here in Norfolk our NHBC inspector want’s 750 centres and in a straight line but yes I’ve been dragged up to do diagonal at 900. Can’t see the difference 👍🏻as long as it’s tied in.
We use a block lock wire.. it ties the horizontal on our courses.. never seen this before
Great videos. What would you do if a single course of block work has been laid in the footings without the 100mm inserts to allow for half bond?
Why would you point the blockwork, when it won't be seen, just curious, love your videos,🇨🇮🇨🇮
I was always told the old ties had to be replaced by the new style (hrt4) because dirty bricklayers wouldn’t clean the backs of the brickwork off and the muck would fall down the cavity and catch on the ties a lot more, now I’ve taken many walls down with the old ties and so many of them have been filthy it’s no wonder why people got damp problems from a dirty wall tie, but they do hold a lot better than the new ones 😂
Trusty trowel pencil love it
Please show how weeping holes are built with cavity walls
luv the ending.🤣🤣🤣🤣
I was a builder about 12 years ago now retired, doing small extensions etc the building regs today are a whole new ball game glad I've not got to deal with it now I know a builder who was a very good tradesman, got sick of the modern regs and retired early
How do you clean the snots and floor when the brick corses get really high?
Awesome video. Thanks
Do you still have to use the red round clips on the metal ties if you use the full skwishy wool type insulation? Thanks
Great episode 👌👌
i would sagest the reason for the new wall ties is they are cheaper to manufacture .
plus quicker and easier to store .
so if i wanted a brick wall showing on the interior and exterior of a home, should i use the same method for insulating in between an inner and outer row of bricks? any thoughts on using spray foam insulation between the bricks?
Great video mate 👍🏼
Hi Rodian, Some of the peaks and troughs seemed to be sandwidged in the insulation joint. Is this okay or should the tie be slid back a bit to let them drip into the cavity? Quick reply would be good as I am about to start me second row of blocks tomorrow and my ties go like the ones in your vid and I am thinking I may need to get a bigger size wall tie. PS on a totally separate topic, here is a vid you might like, around how to make a clamp that is similar to the BT slider type but you have a quick release on it which is pretty cool :).
Hi do you put them every 225mm course at the corners or just 450?
Diamond or staggered ties help to hold fibre glass insulation on a jack walls ect.but i dnt know about structural bennerfits.
You should teach them the 3 4 5 method for a corner 👍
Basic trig boss lol.
What if customer and its outdoor porch double skin without insulation do you still need 100mm cavity ??
If outdoor porch double skin still need 100mn cavity ?? There's no insulation
How do you ensure that the cavity width is maintained at 100mm as you build up a wall?
What is this play video logo in the middle of the screen?
Hey rodian how do you fit the insulation in
Not a fan of the partial fill stuff it’s such a faff .
All the new builds round here are blown in now so no insulation for the brickies to mess with .
Great vid as always pal 🧱👍🏽
Im with you on the celotex thing. its a pain for many reasons.
But blown in means its a mission to keep cavities clean.
Rockwool for the win everytime -)
SilverTrowel631 😉🧱🧱👍🏽
I agree with you on the insulation - I understand air is a great insulator - which is why it (or some other gas) fills double glazed windows and not foam, yeah I know you can't see through foam, but you get the idea. Like a lot of these things, it was probably the brainchild of someone wanting to make money and inventing a solution for problem that didn't exist.
Alright rodian😎
I'm having difficulty plumbing up if you can is there any advice on it?
Idiot how can you not plumb
Could it be that stainless ties have greater strength and the straight tie is easier to manufacture?
My house is built 1900, and it has a 100mm cavity!!! I think the gable and rear wall have cast iron ties, and the front stone wall is tied with the stone from the front wall to the brick inner wall. Crazy.....
Thanks 🙏
Can you use brick force instead of wall ties??
Where would the dpc go? and does it go on the blocks
Are there any building codes for the thickness of both the inner wall and outer wall??
Generally the thickness of the walls are outlined in the architectural drawings but the generally rule is 100mm inner and outer walls with a 100mm cavity between them. Obviously there are variations but that is the general sizing
Yeh it’s much better to partial fill the cavity as you say rather than getting damp bridging…im really surprised that building regulations allow full fill cavity! It’s bound to get damp after a period of time! The wall ties I just thought it changed due to the water dripping off in the middle with the drip notches nothing else …
I get all your wall tie positions except close to the corners. Corners are inherently strong anyway, so why ties so close?
If I was building a small extension for an office say 5metres by 4 metres should I build a cavity wall or just a single layer of brick??
House extension under building control and built in masonary requires cavity wall in UK, due to its thermal performance, structural safety and prevention ofwater ingress. A standalone garden office would usually be built in timber framing.
aren't the wall ties the wrong way round? I.e. the bent piece should be on the outer wall side so that any water drips off before reaching the insulation - the way you have it hear it would drip on the insulation
Yeah on staggers or diamond it helps when putting in fibre glass insulation in.It holds the insulation in place. No real other bennerfit tho lol.
True
Do you need ties if your building the wall up to dpc and cavity filling it?
Good question. I haven't ever done that, butbif you have to build up a fair few courses for some reason I would suggest using them yes.
Can i keep the cavity hollow?
N 2nd question is how does water seep into the cavity when the exterior wall is waterproofed and painted?
Kindly answer.
It depends what you are building, if it's an extension I highly doubt the inspector would allow the cavity to be hollow. If the exterior is painted I doubt water will seep through. If left as just brick, some are more porous than others hence why water could soak through
@@RodianBuilds umm.. The building is a new one. A residence. The formworks are complete and brick work's gonna start soon. I intend to keep the cavity hollow with jalis on the exterior wall (At the bottom and at the top)
So that on warm days there will be air flow inside the cavity.
Will it be effective?
Thank u🔥
👍
Does this insulation work both ways,for cold and hot climate say 40 degree Celsius.
It does. Keeps the heat in when cold outside and the opposite on warm days. The foil backing is a fantastic technology to use in my opinion 👍🏻🧱😁
With a cavity wall I read that Ieaks can happen if they are not done properly! So why a cavity wall when building surely a solid wall is better no?
what would you say is the best way to get into the bricklaying trade
dont -)
Chippies, sparky's, and plumbers have a far easier time of it.
Bricklaying, plastering, roofing, scaffolding, forget them.
SilverTrowel631 nah all my family are brickies and roughcasters and joiners so i will be one of them
Hi , Anyone know the name of the red bricks being used ( flat bottom )
They go by many names and manufacturers. Most brickies will probably just call them a soft red.
They're very common in builders merchants in the UK.
How do you position ties on a 73mm brick?
Never mind just got to the point you answered the question
Probably of no point but I brought my first house in Wales (uk) and it had 1m yes 1 meter thick walls. Made from solid stone no cavity just stone apon stone. Funny as hell when the sky man came out to fit the dish. Dumb ass drilled through the wall and destroyed so many sds bits. Instead of just drilling in the corner of the 100mm wooden window inlay....
Ur a beast 👍🏼
🤣🤣🤣 'if you've got a messy cavity'.......
Never ever saw batt insulation in USA. I’m at this 49 years. I think when batts get wet R value will go down. Those ties seem weaker than what we generally use in the USA. They also place stresses in the wall because the have no adjustability vertically. Stress in the wall vertically develops when the sun heats exterior face and the interior wall remains cool there are different rates of expansion vertically.
I hear a lot of differences between the way USA and UK work. I find it very interesting. My guess is a lot of climate differences must call for different products to be used
We are in the UK... what is this "sun" you speak of?
🤣 I'm from a county called Surrey, Soith west of London. The sun can be a stranger in these parts as well 🤣🤙🏼🧱
I’ve been doing bricklaying for 25 years, i’ve noticed quite a few things what are incorrect in this video, message be back for more information
Can you teach how to do brickwork for a window with 2 leaf. I am told Gap on inside wall is 10mm back from outside wall (i.e. stop window fall out). Would you maybe recommend a flush inside/outside leaf also i.e. so window can be installed from inside or outside
I'm building a medium sized brick and block bar with a cavity wall, shall I add 2 air bricks opposite walls?
Floor will be suspended and insulated between joists.
We also have prefabricated corners for horizontal reinforcement.
Prefabed brick/block corners? Not seen those before. Very interesting
Rodian Builds the wire reinforcement is a 90* shape
26:36
Mate tie your shoe laces!!!
( Ties )Shouldn’t bend them up, you should no !! the whole reason for that is damp passing down tie to inner skin, ties should only bend downward from block skin,
Re the wires ties.economics.cheaper and efficient to produce the thermal efficient tie as apposed to the butterfly. However its like saying I'm running te London marathon but in order to save weight and be more efficient I'm gonna shave off my eyebrows. All boils down to their calculated strength as ties.
you cant use solid cavity insulation (Celotex) when you use buterfly ties.
I much prefer rockwool cavity insulation.
You get no gaps between the batts like you do with celotex (I usually have to tape the joints) and you get no mortar droppings in the cavity.
Its far easier to install between the ties and makes the task of fitting cavity closers simple.
But the main reason is you can build the brickwork before the blockwork which is a far more accurate way to set out window and door openings imo,
Unfortunately rockwool does not have the same U-Value as celotex.
I think both have their pros and cons. The main thing that I like about the celotex is the foil back to reflect heat in/out and the fact you can have a partial fill cavity. Guess its whatever it says on the plans 😁👍🏻🧱
@@RodianBuilds Dont talk to me about plans ...... Have I told you how much I hate architects? -)
🤣🤣🤣🤣 I think we've all had our run ins with a few awkward architects in our time.
where are the profiles
GameWekelijks die kun je hier op m’n kanaal zien 👈🏻😉
He a cowboy hes a wank bricky but hes a reyt nice person bless him
@@JayKTS goedzo laat die engelsen maar lekker troebelen met hun waterpas wij weten hoe het echt moet
Jack Davis takes more skill being able to freehand a corner with a level than just following a profile.... plus where is he going to put his profile on the concrete slab 😂
@@Haitch15 mate i know im a bricky nd the profile goes on the corner of the blocks with clamps to run the line in it doesnt get attached to floor
Every new build is now for wall ties
600 mm apart by 450mm gauge wise, every 225mm on any reveal and every 225 mm on the expansion joint within 225mm off centre of the expansion
Keep them in line not staggered
I personally think having wall ties staggered gives the building a better and stronger structure
And with wheep holes its every 2 bricks now not 4
AND A LOT OF HEALTH AND SAFETY BOLLOCKS!
We dont have those regs on the 3 new builds im doing.
Every 900 horizontal and 450 vertical for ties. Every 225 on reveals, corners and expansions. Staggered placement.
Old school.
On a job I did last year, the building control fella told me expansion joints should be a minimum of 3 meters from the corner in brickwork But on one of the jobs Im on now, there are 4 expansion joints, 2 on each flank and they are just 3 bricks from the corners....... I think they make it up as they go along.
@@SilverTrowel631 down south where I'm based is slightly different but you can't go against them
These development companies have their own rules and most of the time they come up with some silly bollocks
It's just an overkill nowdays with new build
Should you be setting ties so close to the corners, how will the walls move differentials due to heating effects?
No you shouldn’t!
this was washed
You made to many mistakes shun
Adverts??.....unsubscribe and dislike
So you unsubscribe and dislike every youtuber that has adverts? Do you not think we should be allowed to make money for the large amount of work that goes into making videos for TH-cam?