Thank you for not having stupid music playing and not shouting like almost every other video on you tube speaking slowly and thank you for taking to the time to edit the video to a high quality with animations. You are working waaaay beyond your subscriber count. Just subbed. :-)
Ditto here. I dislike the loud music and shouting by some TH-camr's. "Build Better Things" is a quality channel with invaluable content. Jeremy - Thanks for sharing your knowledge and I am very surprised that you do not have a higher subscriber base. Subscribed :)
Thank goodness! I finally chanced upon this channel after a lot of searching for one that’s best to help me with my groundworks up garage build. We’ve just bought the house and I’ve a big project ahead of me in removing the old cement base then putting in new solid foundations then building the actual garage. Loving the clear methodical and comprehensive explanations here running from the drawing designs and equipment list all the way through to a helpful suggestion on a healthy breakfast!! Here we go…
Really nice video, editing and voice over is superb. I have been going over your videos day by day as I prep to start my dig for the foundations in January. Just recieved qoutes of 4k per Sqaure meter (Irish prices) for a 20 square meter extension. I will be doing the majority of works myself now to try save on cost. Your channel is only going to get bigger with the quality of these videos.
Thanks a lot for the encouragement. Even in euros, that’s a hefty price tag and you’ll find once you have your foundations and sub structure in, prices will be easier to negotiate if you go the separate trades route as it’s then easier to price. You’ll enjoy it and be surprised at how straightforward (I don’t mean easy 😉) it is if you prepare. Just watch doing concrete in January February time when for curing temperatures. Thanks again.
Binge watching your videos this morning, unreal stuff. You deserve more subscribers and comments as the info in your videos is priceless. Subscribed and looking forward to more
Very detailed and descriptive video, have also watched some of your others, thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge, do you have a video explaining how to do foundation for uprights on portal frame?
I haven’t covered portal frames since it’s a rare thing for domestic construction. I think you’d use local pad foundations and the columns might come down onto steel plates and resin anchor bolted into pads. Structural engineer etc. thanks for your comment
Great video! Hoping to embark on a self build project shortly and I was contemplating doing the footings myself. I get the impression that so long as you do everything referencing the datum point on your site everything is straightforward. a2 + b2 = c2 It doesn’t seem like rocket science.
Love all your vids, very informative and very well explained for a diyer such as me, I wanted to find out can you pour concrete foundations up to damp course levels using higher shuttering or do you have to use engineering bricks and blocks. Thank you keep up the great work
Hi. Getting the pour totally level for your for junction isn’t easy, whether you use my pegs method or something similar, the courses of block or brick allow the adjustment to 100pc level. If it’s a suspended floor with solum, you’ll need to cast in your vents or cut them in and avoid your reinforcement , aesthetically you need to give some consideration to the shuttering effect, but if you can think through all of those, and your engineer can make the reinforcement work with the cover available , I don’t see why not.
Why did your foundation have to be deeper than the SE specced? Thanks for the videos - absolutely impeccable and the pace/tone/style is very refreshing.
Thanks a lot for your comment. They needed to be deeper for two reasons. First was that the first 400mm was basically just loose backfill, so pouring to the engineer’s spec would have been a disaster. The second is that I’ll always try to use the existing foundations as a guide to depth assuming there’s no movement in the superstructure.
@@build-better-thingsusing the existing foundation level is best way as u know many times they throw backfill onto back gardens etc therefor that can’t be counted in depth of found dig 👍👍
I have just bought a building plot and having done various aspects of renovation and extensions over the years I am looking forward to the challenge of a full build.. I won't be able to do all of it myself but I will be looking to do as much of it as I can. Hardest part from my position is satisfying Building regulations.. say you start you foundation.. That has to be inspected before and after the work and again you will need inspected at various stages of the build and at this point I don't know who I contact or all the sign-off stages.
You need to make an application for building regulations approval to your local authority using their building warrant portal. And then you can go the full plans route, or the inspect as you go route. For a self builder,,, full plans route is always next. For your foundations, you will need a structural engineer. I made a video about the process here How I designed this House Extension - start to finish, all the stages th-cam.com/video/DM5IZMAEQ4o/w-d-xo.html Best of luck.
I would either use a mini pile system (I’ve got a few videos showing how I do that, if you have a look) or I would just dig trenches by shovel. Once you’ve dig down to the right depth, it’s not too bad to get into a rhythm.
Seeing steel used in concrete like that, particularly where the ‘chairs’ effectively leave moisture channels into it. It makes me wonder how long it takes for rust to cause the steel to expand, damaging the surrounding concrete and reducing the steels structural contribution to the strength of the foundation.
There are no “moisture channels”….because we always ensure cover. I’ve shown how achieve that cover and the tools we use, in this series of videos, check in the description below. Oxidisation only occurs if there’s oxygen to expose to. The reinforcement is as detailed on the engineer’s drawings and agreed with the Council’s building regulations department. How would you do it differently?
So, I'm currently digging my foundations for a garage extension. I have dug down to the desired depth and there is a mix of sand and clay areas. The sandy bits are pretty solid and when using a plate compactor, they compact fine, but the clay bits are holding water and when I try to compact them with a plate compactor, they just go like toothpaste. Should I be continuing to compact the clay areas or should I be looking to dig them out? If I do, should I make the whole ditch that depth? Loving your content. Making my way through them all.
You shouldn’t need to be compacting. I think you need to dig deeper, however, I can’t give you advice without seeing it and you need to contact a structural engineer for guidance. The soil needs to be naturally compacted if it’s a strip or a pad foundation, no amount of manually compacting will achieve what boulder clay achieves. The only exception would be it’s a raft foundation that you’re considering. I’ve made videos about how to know what you’re looking for regarding load bearing soil, but again, always talk to an engineer.
hi i guess the slab is the same floor level as the house, but what about the new dpc level is that the same ?, i cant get my head around the dpc level in the new build, thank you
You dig down, expose them, depends on where you are in the country, but likely, they built the walls off the bedrock or went down to super solid boulder clay, and as you say, they would not have used concrete. When I’ve done it in the past, I’ve underpinned with the new concrete found, tied into the old walls with steel rods or mesh, and the new found sets over those ties making the whole thing act as one. Every situation is different however, and you need to dig your trial pit in conjunction with your structural engineer. Thanks for the subscribe.
When you say Building Control will 'insist' on a Structural Engineer's report on foundation design, is that just applicable to Scotland? I've never heard of such in the rest of the UK.
If you go down the full plans route in England, it’s a requirement to provide from structural calculations as part of the application, or, alternatively, I believe they will now accept an SER certificate. It’s possible to go down the Building Notice route, which is where you build the stages, and they inspect. It’s a false economy to go down this route, especially as an inexperienced self builder, as you never know what the individual inspector will and won’t accept. Structural calculations are still required. If you’ve never heard of the need for structural calculations for foundations, perhaps you’ve paid for the calculations to be checked by the council, or you’re doing work without the proper permission. Either way, structural engineering input is absolutely required, everywhere in the U.K.
I have a project coming up...where I want double up 2nd story on existing foundations. I will get engineer to check but what should foundation be like..current its about 7 bricks deep before I reach concrete and yellow clay ....
I mention the need for trial pits before starting anything else. This is about strip foundations, assuming, after your trial pit, that the soil supports it. This is made clear in the video. For strip foundations you absolutely don’t need “fancy tools”. If after your trial pits, it’s clear that the soil won’t support strip foundations, then you have the choice between a raft foundation, or a pile system. For piles, yes you might need an auger. For a raft, yes, you might need a pump and form work. Passing building control is not really to do with what tools you’re using, and everything to do with the engineering, the design, and whether the foundation built on site is installed per the design.
great video im thinking of extending my existing conservatory and remaking it with a part timber/brick structure on a foundation. Would i need planning permission it will be 5m x3m total with a flat warm deck roof? Any help would be great?.
Hi. Are you in a conservation area, is your garden still twice the size after the new extension, with your warm roof, is the height below the permitted development requirement. Area wise it’s ok but there’s too many variables to tell you definitively , and you’re best to look at the government’s permitted development guidelines which is all explained using graphics so easy to understand. Best of luck.
Great video I’ve been looking for a video on how to build a foundation To build a block brick shed .Would you do the same steps you’ve for this extension or would you do something differently ?
If it was block and brick, I might use shallower trenches for a strip foundation like here, build up to ground level and a bit above to form the shuttering for a concrete floor slab, or I might just pour the slab making sure to thicken up the edges where the walls are, and add some rebar. I doubt I would ever do a shed in anything other than timber frame, and for that I’d just mini pile it. But nothing wrong with doing it your way, I just think it’s more work.
Hi mate, I am a builder from New Zealand and fresh in the UK. I am very unfamiliar with how things work in the UK and have been contracting for someone for 6 months before I’ve picked up my own job doing a big extension. Have a very vague structural engineer that has given me super ambiguous drawings and I cannot contact him. All that it says is foundation 1m below ground level minimum and that’s all it says… Is that a 1m deep footing below good ground, or is it perhaps a shallower footing at 1m deep below good ground? I can only assume it’s 1m deep by 600mm wide of just pure concrete… In NZ all of our footings have a lot of steel, no mention of steel or anything here. I don’t have any details for the pad or anything… it’s honestly a bit of a joke and I don’t know what’s normal here in the UK. Could ask the client to get a new SE?
Hi and I hope you’re enjoying the uk. That is a 250mm thick strip around 600 wide, at a depth of about 1200 mm below ground. It has A35 mesh reinforcement with 35mm cover to the bottom. The steel column pad foundations are 500mm deep. All from memory but hopefully not too far off.
Hi I’ve tried accessing your website but it seems to have a security issue preventing access. Do you have an email address you could be reached on instead?
I’m sure there’s a load of metal detectors and things you can get, I just go around and look at the properties to figure out the drains and the water and power, then if I’m in doubt, hand dig some investigations holes. You need to demonstrate you’ve got all the records and contacted the utility infrastructure companies, BT, gas, etc. they keep records that they will send you. Then if you need to call on your insurance, you can demonstrate you’ve carried out due diligence.
Great content, I am thinking about taking the leap and building out a small extension to my house approx 4x4, I am a Project Manager in construction and have been in and around construction for over 10 years. With a 4x4 single storey lean to, to the rear garden is planning still required? I am based in the Southside of Glasgow, cheers Ross
Hey thanks for the comment. Provided you don’t live in a terraced house, you can project 4 metres from your rear wall. The height of the eaves should be no more than 3 metres and the maximum height of the extension should be no more than 4 metres. If you’re in a terrace or semi detached I think it’s 3 metres max projection. The maximum length of your extension should be no more than the length of your house. Hope that helps and best of luck with it.
Hi. What do you do when the house foundations are just a couple of rows of bricks proud of the exterior walls? House built in 1880. 2 brick solid wall. Not cavity.
@@build-better-things Hi. You said that you pin your extension base to the foundation block of your house. I cannot do that because my foundation is just bricks. I cannot send you a picture here obviously so I'll describe the best I can. Looking at the outer wall the foundation is made of bricks arranged length ways. The ends of bricks facing me going underneath the outer wall. Like the old fashioned boundary wall construction. I'm guessing I'll have to ignore the pinning of the base to the foundation of my house then. Maybe build upon deep piers to stop movement away from my house? Thanks
On your model you show a bit of a pad foundation for the goalposts behind the existing foundations. How did you go about getting concrete in there. Did yoou epoxy it all together?
First I had set up some form work, then ready mix concrete wheelbarrowed from the lorry, and then placed with a shovel bit by bit. Tied into the strip foundations with rebar and the columns were fixed within resin anchored bolts. Hope that makes sense.
Dig around and over if I remember correctly. Then resin mesh and rebar to tie in before form work and pour. The base of the existing foundations were the datum level so no need to go under, from memory
Do you think its feasible to do foundations if there is more drainwork and deeper requirements? Is there a point where you would use groundworkers rather than diy? Thanks
Provided it’s conventional strip or pad foundations for a simple shape such as a rectangle, I’ll aim to always do it myself and keep control. The cost of delays due to people not turning up when they say they will at this stage are always substantial. I’d also rather do all the below ground drainage myself and know it’s in the way I want it. The skill in this phase is in preparation and logistics , which anyone can do if they take their time. I’d use groundworkers if pile foundations were required, or perhaps complex steel reinforcement that requires experience and skill, or for concrete retaining walls. I’d also use them for basements where a guarantee might be required, for example. Thanks for the comment.
On my friends drawing it says top of foundation to be 450mm below ground level or to existing found whichever is greater. Why cant I just stop at 650mm (200mm found) rather than keep on digging. to match existing.
I use boards where there’s a need for shoring but I’ll usually aim to remove them as I pour the concrete. On your question about whether it’s necessary or not… not really uk specific thing, you either need to shore or you don’t. It’s not the regulations that dictate it…is the ground conditions specific to the site and soil you’re working with.
Im a builder, is a course on artitecture the best option to start doing what your are doing with property? or should i become qualified with something else?
If you’re already a builder, do you want to run all trades jobs where you price and then build a job? For customers or for yourself by buying old properties and improving them ? For both, you need a working knowledge of all the trades, and can use tools for all trades when required, and be prepared to also have time for all the admin that goes with it. I learnt by mainly watching and then doing, although I did a few short courses as well. Yes I qualified as an architect which helped, but I don’t think it’s as important as understanding the whole building process, many architects don’t have much of a clue about that. Good luck and ask me anything else if you want since it’s a broad question you put.
@@build-better-things I agree with what you are saying iv learned alot of different trades. I guess I'm wondering what course would help me understand the whole process more. I wouldn't want to do a course in architecture to realize I should have spent the time learning something else.
Really I don’t think such a course exists. Sometimes we just need to dive in. The fact that you are asking these questions and thinking about the right things means I think you are in the right mindset to succeed. You can ask me questions anytime and if I can help, I will.
@@build-better-thingsI have done the perimeter up to dmc. I was going to add a cavity separating wall. I'm not sure how the procedure is to join the separating wall
Hi. This one took about a morning to set out and get all the tools, materials and plant on site for the dig. Then, due to the depth and the rubbish soil, it took about 2.5 days to dig, including shoring a few bits. So 3 to 4 days max if I remember right . Would probably have been quicker except we had to barrow all the soil to the front, we couldn’t get a mini dumper.
@@build-better-things thanks for your reply as it good to get an idea how long these things take. 4 days seems very quick and gives me when I start my extension I’ve got a ballpark figure how long it will take. I’m quite anxious even though I have experience with DIY but after watching your videos it’s really open my eyes to what is possible.
If you need content ideas then I'd love to see a video on understanding the drawings....unless you have one already. Aside from not wanting to look foolish at the architects office I'm concerned I won't be able to follow them.
It’s not about whether it is wrong I guess, it’s about the damage that’s caused by incorrect design. Engineers must carry professional indemnity insurance, which covers them for any damage they might inadvertently cause to their clients. I’m no lawyer, but that’s how I understand it. The other thing to bear in mind is that construction is usually shades of grey when trying to show fault , and that it’s hard to get clarity on blame. To answer your question though, I wouldn’t expect a refund, I would expect the cost of righting any design errors were addressed.
you need to be seriously careful doing things like this just because you see it on paper doesn't mean you understand it regs change as fast as you can turn you head
The work is reasonably simple but I’ve had the unfortunate experience of working on an extension where the so called professional builder has failed to set out accurately, a total fckng joke. Saying that we’ve worked on a contract where the architect had not surveyed the property accurately unbelievable.
Sorry to hear about your circumstances. Even if the architect has measured incorrectly (and I’m afraid it probably happens more often than you would think), and even if the builder follows his drawings to the millimetre, the responsibility for any setting out always rests with the contractor. Site sizing always supersedes design drawings. It probably doesn’t help you, but that’s more than likely the legal situation you’ll find yourself.
@@build-better-things hello, thanks for your feed back. In the particular circumstance I referred to we did set out to the utmost accuracy but the idiot architect and he was, believe you me, insisted on the Drawing dimensions as did the ignorant clients, I informed the client that their architect had wrongly dimensioned the existing layout. There had been an extension added at the rear of the property but what the architect hadn't picked up on was that the extension was not set out perpendicular to the existing, he very unwisely assumed it was perpendicular but it was skewed , and it was very obvious to see, don't ask me how he could have missed that fact but the idiot did, there were other structural problems, some very serious that had to be addressed, which only revealed themselves as we did the internal demolition & take down, they were not part of the contract but the client agreed to the Works & they were extensive, including crack stitching, a lot. A Masonry Beam, expensive, as the gable had been so poorly built that it was in danger of collapse, various steel beams, all the window reveals had to be pinned with epoxied stainless steel bar. I don't remember everything we also had to take down the wall between the old part of the property & the "New" extension as it was structurally unsound. Basically the whole property had been built by half wits, they certainly were not professional Builders, we are. We were BBA accredited, sometime back and have always delivered top quality work. But we've had enough of trying to do business in the UK, we've started a business over in the States, where we are is great. Low taxes, no State income tax, although there is Federal Income Tax. The money is many times better and you.get to keep a lot of it. Unlike in the UK. The UK is not business friendly, far from it. We are still in Scotland, doing Trade Work but I'll be moving away next year. And there will be no regrets or tears. The UK is a basket case.
You doing great favour by sharing so much invaluable knowledge and information, its helping me so much on my project which I would love to share if interested, I am building application for costing and resourcing material for extn projects, Your videos have become my reference material, thank you tons and tons 🫡
Thank you for not having stupid music playing and not shouting like almost every other video on you tube speaking slowly and thank you for taking to the time to edit the video to a high quality with animations. You are working waaaay beyond your subscriber count. Just subbed. :-)
Thanks a lot for your kind words, it really motivates me when I get comments like this.
This is exactly why I subscribed also.
Thank you for your videos 👍
Ditto here. I dislike the loud music and shouting by some TH-camr's. "Build Better Things" is a quality channel with invaluable content. Jeremy - Thanks for sharing your knowledge and I am very surprised that you do not have a higher subscriber base. Subscribed :)
Thank you too
How have you not got hundreds of thousands of subscribers? Brilliant content!.. Subscribed and started to watch all your content
Thanks a lot. Really appreciate your comment
This high-info-low-nonsense style of video is spot on 😌
Bro this is truly amazing you are an absolute gem 💎
Thank goodness! I finally chanced upon this channel after a lot of searching for one that’s best to help me with my groundworks up garage build. We’ve just bought the house and I’ve a big project ahead of me in removing the old cement base then putting in new solid foundations then building the actual garage. Loving the clear methodical and comprehensive explanations here running from the drawing designs and equipment list all the way through to a helpful suggestion on a healthy breakfast!! Here we go…
Thanks a lot for taking the time to comment and best of luck with your project. I hope it’s rewarding. They usually are
Really nice video, editing and voice over is superb. I have been going over your videos day by day as I prep to start my dig for the foundations in January. Just recieved qoutes of 4k per Sqaure meter (Irish prices) for a 20 square meter extension. I will be doing the majority of works myself now to try save on cost. Your channel is only going to get bigger with the quality of these videos.
Thanks a lot for the encouragement. Even in euros, that’s a hefty price tag and you’ll find once you have your foundations and sub structure in, prices will be easier to negotiate if you go the separate trades route as it’s then easier to price. You’ll enjoy it and be surprised at how straightforward (I don’t mean easy 😉) it is if you prepare. Just watch doing concrete in January February time when for curing temperatures. Thanks again.
Binge watching your videos this morning, unreal stuff. You deserve more subscribers and comments as the info in your videos is priceless. Subscribed and looking forward to more
Thank you for that, I really appreciate it. It’s great to get comments and to answer any questions. Yes…. There’s plenty more on the way.
Thanks for posting these videos. Very clear and informative. Much appreciated .
Thanks a lot for the comment.
Very detailed and descriptive video, have also watched some of your others, thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge, do you have a video explaining how to do foundation for uprights on portal frame?
I haven’t covered portal frames since it’s a rare thing for domestic construction. I think you’d use local pad foundations and the columns might come down onto steel plates and resin anchor bolted into pads. Structural engineer etc. thanks for your comment
Super clear and spot on instructions - Thankyou so much. Really helped me with the job list for the foundation dig for ours.
Thanks a lot for saying so. Let me know if you have any questions
Great video! Hoping to embark on a self build project shortly and I was contemplating doing the footings myself. I get the impression that so long as you do everything referencing the datum point on your site everything is straightforward. a2 + b2 = c2
It doesn’t seem like rocket science.
Exactly that. Get the datum clearly established, then all you focus on is keeping it plumb and level, and the 3-4-5 triangle. Thanks for your comment.
Really good video... So much helpful information. Ive just bought a property that needs some updating and thinking about extending the kitchen myself.
Thank you and best of luck with your new property and the extension.
Super video, very informative & easy to follow.
subscribed!
PLEASE keep making more videos, i'm poor haha
Just re-commenting to say thanks for sharing this content. It's great!
Thanks. Appreciate the comment.
So glad i found your channel. Very informative.
Love all your vids, very informative and very well explained for a diyer such as me, I wanted to find out can you pour concrete foundations up to damp course levels using higher shuttering or do you have to use engineering bricks and blocks. Thank you keep up the great work
Hi. Getting the pour totally level for your for junction isn’t easy, whether you use my pegs method or something similar, the courses of block or brick allow the adjustment to 100pc level. If it’s a suspended floor with solum, you’ll need to cast in your vents or cut them in and avoid your reinforcement , aesthetically you need to give some consideration to the shuttering effect, but if you can think through all of those, and your engineer can make the reinforcement work with the cover available , I don’t see why not.
Great informative video 👍
Hi COULD YOU PLEASE GUIDE ME I WOULD LIKE TO BUILD DOUBLE EXTENSION 🙏 THANKS
Thank you for a very informative video.
i am looking to do self build with hired help as required.
Best of luck with it. It’s the most rewarding way in my opinion
So many useful tips 👏🏻 subscribed
USE A GRAB COMPANY INSTEAD OF A SKIP FOR TAKING EARTH AWAY .. saves massive effort rather than running up ramps etc
Yes, that’s best. Just couldn’t get anything in time for this particular project.
This is amazing thank you so much
Why did your foundation have to be deeper than the SE specced? Thanks for the videos - absolutely impeccable and the pace/tone/style is very refreshing.
Thanks a lot for your comment. They needed to be deeper for two reasons. First was that the first 400mm was basically just loose backfill, so pouring to the engineer’s spec would have been a disaster. The second is that I’ll always try to use the existing foundations as a guide to depth assuming there’s no movement in the superstructure.
@@build-better-thingsusing the existing foundation level is best way as u know many times they throw backfill onto back gardens etc therefor that can’t be counted in depth of found dig 👍👍
@@makg4655 ain't that the truth
Dripping with info. Excellent for DIY'ers and no doubt professionals alike and, as others have said, no silly music and 'Hi Guys' trash.
Thanks a lot. Appreciate it
I have just bought a building plot and having done various aspects of renovation and extensions over the years I am looking forward to the challenge of a full build.. I won't be able to do all of it myself but I will be looking to do as much of it as I can.
Hardest part from my position is satisfying Building regulations.. say you start you foundation.. That has to be inspected before and after the work and again you will need inspected at various stages of the build and at this point I don't know who I contact or all the sign-off stages.
You need to make an application for building regulations approval to your local authority using their building warrant portal. And then you can go the full plans route, or the inspect as you go route. For a self builder,,, full plans route is always next. For your foundations, you will need a structural engineer. I made a video about the process here
How I designed this House Extension - start to finish, all the stages
th-cam.com/video/DM5IZMAEQ4o/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck.
Thanks, I will check it out.@@build-better-things
Very good detailed information👍🏻
Thanks a lot
Simply excellent
What will you do for digging out foundations if you live in a terraced house? Is there any other alternative than craning in a mini digger ?
I would either use a mini pile system (I’ve got a few videos showing how I do that, if you have a look) or I would just dig trenches by shovel. Once you’ve dig down to the right depth, it’s not too bad to get into a rhythm.
Amazing informative video!!
Good Vid very informative, thanks.
Seeing steel used in concrete like that, particularly where the ‘chairs’ effectively leave moisture channels into it. It makes me wonder how long it takes for rust to cause the steel to expand, damaging the surrounding concrete and reducing the steels structural contribution to the strength of the foundation.
There are no “moisture channels”….because we always ensure cover. I’ve shown how achieve that cover and the tools we use, in this series of videos, check in the description below. Oxidisation only occurs if there’s oxygen to expose to. The reinforcement is as detailed on the engineer’s drawings and agreed with the Council’s building regulations department. How would you do it differently?
Interesting to watch
So, I'm currently digging my foundations for a garage extension. I have dug down to the desired depth and there is a mix of sand and clay areas. The sandy bits are pretty solid and when using a plate compactor, they compact fine, but the clay bits are holding water and when I try to compact them with a plate compactor, they just go like toothpaste. Should I be continuing to compact the clay areas or should I be looking to dig them out? If I do, should I make the whole ditch that depth?
Loving your content. Making my way through them all.
You shouldn’t need to be compacting. I think you need to dig deeper, however, I can’t give you advice without seeing it and you need to contact a structural engineer for guidance. The soil needs to be naturally compacted if it’s a strip or a pad foundation, no amount of manually compacting will achieve what boulder clay achieves. The only exception would be it’s a raft foundation that you’re considering. I’ve made videos about how to know what you’re looking for regarding load bearing soil, but again, always talk to an engineer.
hi i guess the slab is the same floor level as the house, but what about the new dpc level is that the same ?, i cant get my head around the dpc level in the new build, thank you
DPC is at solum level. I’ve explained it in this video.
House Extension Step by Step | You must do this!
th-cam.com/video/zkE9x1-lhkc/w-d-xo.html
Great video, new subscriber.
Unfortunately, my 1910 house hasn't really got any foundations, so I'm sure how that will affect the new foundations.
You dig down, expose them, depends on where you are in the country, but likely, they built the walls off the bedrock or went down to super solid boulder clay, and as you say, they would not have used concrete. When I’ve done it in the past, I’ve underpinned with the new concrete found, tied into the old walls with steel rods or mesh, and the new found sets over those ties making the whole thing act as one. Every situation is different however, and you need to dig your trial pit in conjunction with your structural engineer. Thanks for the subscribe.
@build-better-things Thank you very much for your reply.
We gappen to be in Essex, so on clay.
Thank you for the great content, it's very helpf.
When you say Building Control will 'insist' on a Structural Engineer's report on foundation design, is that just applicable to Scotland? I've never heard of such in the rest of the UK.
If you go down the full plans route in England, it’s a requirement to provide from structural calculations as part of the application, or, alternatively, I believe they will now accept an SER certificate. It’s possible to go down the Building Notice route, which is where you build the stages, and they inspect. It’s a false economy to go down this route, especially as an inexperienced self builder, as you never know what the individual inspector will and won’t accept. Structural calculations are still required. If you’ve never heard of the need for structural calculations for foundations, perhaps you’ve paid for the calculations to be checked by the council, or you’re doing work without the proper permission. Either way, structural engineering input is absolutely required, everywhere in the U.K.
Very helpful 👍👍👍👍 straight to the point 👍👍👍
Thanks a lot for your comment.
What's the difference between a flat and apartment?
Imacculate video. No idea why this hasn't got thousands of likes and comments.
I have a project coming up...where I want double up 2nd story on existing foundations. I will get engineer to check but what should foundation be like..current its about 7 bricks deep before I reach concrete and yellow clay ....
That all depends on what soil you have. In some soils you would need the fancy tools otherwise it won't pass building control.
I mention the need for trial pits before starting anything else. This is about strip foundations, assuming, after your trial pit, that the soil supports it. This is made clear in the video. For strip foundations you absolutely don’t need “fancy tools”. If after your trial pits, it’s clear that the soil won’t support strip foundations, then you have the choice between a raft foundation, or a pile system. For piles, yes you might need an auger. For a raft, yes, you might need a pump and form work. Passing building control is not really to do with what tools you’re using, and everything to do with the engineering, the design, and whether the foundation built on site is installed per the design.
great video im thinking of extending my existing conservatory and remaking it with a part timber/brick structure on a foundation. Would i need planning permission it will be 5m x3m total with a flat warm deck roof? Any help would be great?.
Hi. Are you in a conservation area, is your garden still twice the size after the new extension, with your warm roof, is the height below the permitted development requirement. Area wise it’s ok but there’s too many variables to tell you definitively , and you’re best to look at the government’s permitted development guidelines which is all explained using graphics so easy to understand. Best of luck.
Great video I’ve been looking for a video on how to build a foundation To build a block brick shed .Would you do the same steps you’ve for this extension or would you do something differently ?
If it was block and brick, I might use shallower trenches for a strip foundation like here, build up to ground level and a bit above to form the shuttering for a concrete floor slab, or I might just pour the slab making sure to thicken up the edges where the walls are, and add some rebar. I doubt I would ever do a shed in anything other than timber frame, and for that I’d just mini pile it. But nothing wrong with doing it your way, I just think it’s more work.
Hi mate, I am a builder from New Zealand and fresh in the UK. I am very unfamiliar with how things work in the UK and have been contracting for someone for 6 months before I’ve picked up my own job doing a big extension.
Have a very vague structural engineer that has given me super ambiguous drawings and I cannot contact him. All that it says is foundation 1m below ground level minimum and that’s all it says…
Is that a 1m deep footing below good ground, or is it perhaps a shallower footing at 1m deep below good ground? I can only assume it’s 1m deep by 600mm wide of just pure concrete…
In NZ all of our footings have a lot of steel, no mention of steel or anything here. I don’t have any details for the pad or anything… it’s honestly a bit of a joke and I don’t know what’s normal here in the UK.
Could ask the client to get a new SE?
Hi and I hope you’re enjoying the uk. That is a 250mm thick strip around 600 wide, at a depth of about 1200 mm below ground. It has A35 mesh reinforcement with 35mm cover to the bottom. The steel column pad foundations are 500mm deep. All from memory but hopefully not too far off.
Great Work.
Thank you.
Hi, thanks for the video.
I want to build my own extension at back of my house. Wondered if you could help me please
You can contact me here if you have questions
buildbetterthings.com/one-to-one-consults/#one-to-one-consultation
Hi I’ve tried accessing your website but it seems to have a security issue preventing access. Do you have an email address you could be reached on instead?
I’m having problems with the site provider and I’m the process of shifting over. Yes, it’s friendlyarchitect@gmail.com
Hey there great video, i want to give this a go myself but worried about hitting water, gas or other pipes...any tips?
I’m sure there’s a load of metal detectors and things you can get, I just go around and look at the properties to figure out the drains and the water and power, then if I’m in doubt, hand dig some investigations holes. You need to demonstrate you’ve got all the records and contacted the utility infrastructure companies, BT, gas, etc. they keep records that they will send you. Then if you need to call on your insurance, you can demonstrate you’ve carried out due diligence.
@@build-better-things thank you so much!
Great content, I am thinking about taking the leap and building out a small extension to my house approx 4x4, I am a Project Manager in construction and have been in and around construction for over 10 years. With a 4x4 single storey lean to, to the rear garden is planning still required? I am based in the Southside of Glasgow, cheers Ross
Hey thanks for the comment. Provided you don’t live in a terraced house, you can project 4 metres from your rear wall.
The height of the eaves should be no more than 3 metres and the maximum height of the extension should be no more than 4 metres. If you’re in a terrace or semi detached I think it’s 3 metres max projection. The maximum length of your extension should be no more than the length of your house. Hope that helps and best of luck with it.
Hi. What do you do when the house foundations are just a couple of rows of bricks proud of the exterior walls? House built in 1880. 2 brick solid wall. Not cavity.
Hi. I’m not sure what you’re asking? What do you do if….?
@@build-better-things
Hi. You said that you pin your extension base to the foundation block of your house. I cannot do that because my foundation is just bricks. I cannot send you a picture here obviously so I'll describe the best I can. Looking at the outer wall the foundation is made of bricks arranged length ways. The ends of bricks facing me going underneath the outer wall. Like the old fashioned boundary wall construction. I'm guessing I'll have to ignore the pinning of the base to the foundation of my house then. Maybe build upon deep piers to stop movement away from my house? Thanks
Thanks buddy
On your model you show a bit of a pad foundation for the goalposts behind the existing foundations. How did you go about getting concrete in there. Did yoou epoxy it all together?
First I had set up some form work, then ready mix concrete wheelbarrowed from the lorry, and then placed with a shovel bit by bit. Tied into the strip foundations with rebar and the columns were fixed within resin anchored bolts. Hope that makes sense.
@@build-better-things it makes sense. How did you access that bit. Did you dig under the existing foundation or break through it?
Dig around and over if I remember correctly. Then resin mesh and rebar to tie in before form work and pour. The base of the existing foundations were the datum level so no need to go under, from memory
@@build-better-things interesting to know. Thanks
If you look at my videos on steel work, I think there’s one that shows it a bit clearly there. Thanks for your comments.
Do you think its feasible to do foundations if there is more drainwork and deeper requirements? Is there a point where you would use groundworkers rather than diy? Thanks
Provided it’s conventional strip or pad foundations for a simple shape such as a rectangle, I’ll aim to always do it myself and keep control. The cost of delays due to people not turning up when they say they will at this stage are always substantial. I’d also rather do all the below ground drainage myself and know it’s in the way I want it. The skill in this phase is in preparation and logistics , which anyone can do if they take their time. I’d use groundworkers if pile foundations were required, or perhaps complex steel reinforcement that requires experience and skill, or for concrete retaining walls. I’d also use them for basements where a guarantee might be required, for example. Thanks for the comment.
On my friends drawing it says top of foundation to be 450mm below ground level or to existing found whichever is greater. Why cant I just stop at 650mm (200mm found) rather than keep on digging. to match existing.
Foundations built at different depths and not tied to each other with reinforcement can result in differential settlement.
Someone told me that those boards put in the foundation trench before pouring concrete are unnecessary in the UK. Is that true?
I use boards where there’s a need for shoring but I’ll usually aim to remove them as I pour the concrete. On your question about whether it’s necessary or not… not really uk specific thing, you either need to shore or you don’t. It’s not the regulations that dictate it…is the ground conditions specific to the site and soil you’re working with.
Quality
( build it with Bob ) I think is 1 ecotruss or something
Top man……thank you
Im a builder, is a course on artitecture the best option to start doing what your are doing with property? or should i become qualified with something else?
If you’re already a builder, do you want to run all trades jobs where you price and then build a job? For customers or for yourself by buying old properties and improving them ? For both, you need a working knowledge of all the trades, and can use tools for all trades when required, and be prepared to also have time for all the admin that goes with it. I learnt by mainly watching and then doing, although I did a few short courses as well. Yes I qualified as an architect which helped, but I don’t think it’s as important as understanding the whole building process, many architects don’t have much of a clue about that. Good luck and ask me anything else if you want since it’s a broad question you put.
@@build-better-things I agree with what you are saying iv learned alot of different trades. I guess I'm wondering what course would help me understand the whole process more. I wouldn't want to do a course in architecture to realize I should have spent the time learning something else.
Really I don’t think such a course exists. Sometimes we just need to dive in. The fact that you are asking these questions and thinking about the right things means I think you are in the right mindset to succeed. You can ask me questions anytime and if I can help, I will.
@@build-better-thingsI have done the perimeter up to dmc. I was going to add a cavity separating wall. I'm not sure how the procedure is to join the separating wall
To the perimeter wall and existing structure. Do I need wall ties on the dpc
Are u implying that engineers just copy and paste thier works on projects 🤔🤔🤫🤫🤫😂😂😂
3-4 days to dig out the trench?
Didn’t I explain in the vid? I thought I did but I’ll try to find the timestamp.
I used to dig that out in 2 days on me own 🙈
How long does it take you in total to dig the foundations?
Hi. This one took about a morning to set out and get all the tools, materials and plant on site for the dig. Then, due to the depth and the rubbish soil, it took about 2.5 days to dig, including shoring a few bits. So 3 to 4 days max if I remember right . Would probably have been quicker except we had to barrow all the soil to the front, we couldn’t get a mini dumper.
@@build-better-things thanks for your reply as it good to get an idea how long these things take. 4 days seems very quick and gives me when I start my extension I’ve got a ballpark figure how long it will take. I’m quite anxious even though I have experience with DIY but after watching your videos it’s really open my eyes to what is possible.
Allow a week. Make sure you dig the trial pits first.
@@build-better-things thanks for the tip
What about the guttering
I don’t know what you mean. Guttering Would be part of the roof work, not the foundations.
If you need content ideas then I'd love to see a video on understanding the drawings....unless you have one already. Aside from not wanting to look foolish at the architects office I'm concerned I won't be able to follow them.
If the engineer’s advice is wrong, do you get a refund?
It’s not about whether it is wrong I guess, it’s about the damage that’s caused by incorrect design. Engineers must carry professional indemnity insurance, which covers them for any damage they might inadvertently cause to their clients. I’m no lawyer, but that’s how I understand it. The other thing to bear in mind is that construction is usually shades of grey when trying to show fault , and that it’s hard to get clarity on blame. To answer your question though, I wouldn’t expect a refund, I would expect the cost of righting any design errors were addressed.
you need to be seriously careful doing things like this just because you see it on paper doesn't mean you understand it regs change as fast as you can turn you head
The work is reasonably simple but I’ve had the unfortunate experience of working on an extension where the so called professional builder has failed to set out accurately, a total fckng joke. Saying that we’ve worked on a contract where the architect had not surveyed the property accurately unbelievable.
Sorry to hear about your circumstances. Even if the architect has measured incorrectly (and I’m afraid it probably happens more often than you would think), and even if the builder follows his drawings to the millimetre, the responsibility for any setting out always rests with the contractor. Site sizing always supersedes design drawings. It probably doesn’t help you, but that’s more than likely the legal situation you’ll find yourself.
@@build-better-things hello, thanks for your feed back. In the particular circumstance I referred to we did set out to the utmost accuracy but the idiot architect and he was, believe you me, insisted on the Drawing dimensions as did the ignorant clients, I informed the client that their architect had wrongly dimensioned the existing layout. There had been an extension added at the rear of the property but what the architect hadn't picked up on was that the extension was not set out perpendicular to the existing, he very unwisely assumed it was perpendicular but it was skewed , and it was very obvious to see, don't ask me how he could have missed that fact but the idiot did, there were other structural problems, some very serious that had to be addressed, which only revealed themselves as we did the internal demolition & take down, they were not part of the contract but the client agreed to the Works & they were extensive, including crack stitching, a lot. A Masonry Beam, expensive, as the gable had been so poorly built that it was in danger of collapse, various steel beams, all the window reveals had to be pinned with epoxied stainless steel bar. I don't remember everything we also had to take down the wall between the old part of the property & the "New" extension as it was structurally unsound. Basically the whole property had been built by half wits, they certainly were not professional Builders, we are. We were BBA accredited, sometime back and have always delivered top quality work.
But we've had enough of trying to do business in the UK, we've started a business over in the States, where we are is great. Low taxes, no State income tax, although there is Federal Income Tax. The money is many times better and you.get to keep a lot of it. Unlike in the UK.
The UK is not business friendly, far from it. We are still in Scotland, doing Trade Work but I'll be moving away next year. And there will be no regrets or tears. The UK is a basket case.
I did not find this video relevant or useful for 'setting out foundations'.
2 days digging by hand & 30 minutes to fill it with concrete £1000 @ most
You doing great favour by sharing so much invaluable knowledge and information, its helping me so much on my project which I would love to share if interested, I am building application for costing and resourcing material for extn projects, Your videos have become my reference material, thank you tons and tons 🫡
Thanks for your comment and I wish you the best of luck. You can contact me through the links in the channel page if you would like.