Gear/Derailleur Repair Ends in Total Failure!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- I had a gear issue and decided to try and fix it. A bad thing happened.
Can a freewheel that has been so torqued on that it rotates beyond the hub threads? This could make it sit too close to the spokes, but I just don't know.
![Warhammer 40k: Space Marine 2 | เพื่อจักรพรรดิ ! [ตอนเดียวจบ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4M0ckYMA4-U/mqdefault.jpg)
First, I had the derailleur-versus-spokes issue on a vintage bicycle myself. I resolved the issue by installing a spoke protector (also know, affectionately by me, as a "dork disk). The inner flange of the spoke protector, aka, the inner radius portion near the threads of the hub, acts as a spacer, pushing the whole of the freewheel just a few millimeters further outboard on the hub. It may seem counterintuitive to add something inboard of the freewheel, but it did the job for me. If you don't like the looks of a spoke protector, there were 80's vintage models that had a clear plastic outer rim... the plastic often turns yellow and cracks off; you can break off the plastic portion and use the leftover metal ring just as a spacer (check that the spacing works before going thru this effort though). If your bicycle had been raced, back in the day, then it's possible that the owner swapped freewheels, depending on the race course. So chances are that the freewheel might not be original to the bicycle (if that is a concern).
Second, I always try to put the freewheel tool in a bench vise, then place the wheel assy on the tool, and use the whole wheel as the "wrench", to maximise the torque applied to the freewheel. With a gently bit of downward force applied while torquing the wheel, there might still be enough "meat" left on the freewheel for this to work. Or, maybe you could use this bench vise trick, but plug in a chain whip for the freewheel tool.
Thanks for the comments. I do dislike the look of those spoke protectors on this type of high end bike, but I see your point. I didn't have access to a vise but I'm really not sure it would have made a difference, that freewheel was so stuck on there that the force necessary was likely to going to break either the tool, the freewheel or the hub itself. However, as you say, there's more control with the vise and it's a must when you have these type pf problems. Cheers!
Tighten the quick release skewer/lever against the freewheel remover tool to stop the tool from dislodging. It has to be really tight. Apply pressure to the wrench only till the block begins to move, then release the lever as you continue to turn the wrench.
Thanks, unfortunately the freewheel didn’t move a millimetre under huge pressure
@@thevelocollective343 Have you tried it in a vise?
I would just change the wheel, what else...
I had the similar problem,and it was a simple solution of playing around with the low gear screw,and the B screw 😅
Of course it was a modern derailleur!
Greetings from Kris from Croatia
Have a nice and safe rides!🙂
I think another wheel is maybe the answer. Thanks for watching!
The smaller the sprocket, the closer it will be to the spokes, either fit a block with a larger bottom sprocket or fit a spacer behind the block.
Also, aluminium hardens with age ( age hardening ) be very careful with old aluminium components.
Yes it's a tiny freewheel, I think it has moved closer over time. Thanks for the feedback.
Unfortunately, that block has had it.
Remove the smallest sprocket (2 chain whips) strip the freehub (centre punch) and clamp the body in a large vice and undo.
You can still find old pattern multi freewheels ,choices maybe limited
Yes, I think you're right. I know someone who has a vice and try it. Thanks!
There was some good beats there. and you knew it. haha....
Yeah, should mic it up and make a track with them! Cheers!
Just a thought, would a few more links in your chain allow the derailleur tensioner arm to open up, run closer to vertical and put the component that's touching the spokes further out, towards the wheel rim where the spokes have moved away?
Does this still happen with the chain running on the larger front gear?
Hi, yes it happens on both chain rings. I see your point, I could give it a try but I have a feeling the chain may struggle to reach its maximum gear ratio..cheers
Next time you can use a torch and heat that freewheel up nice and hot near the threads. then insert the tool. make sure it stays nicely in place, have a second guy holding the wheel infront of that wall and hammer the shit of out the wrench in the right directlion. you may have to do this quite a few times.
I think that could work, another pair of hands and heat could have helped. Thanks for your message.
I think thath The wheel center cone is out of The correct position.
observe thath how The small cog is far from The frame.
You could be right, I definitely think it needs checking. I may take it to a local wheel builder to check it. Cheers !
Wouldn’t spacer work behind sprocket so derailleur wouldn’t have to travel as far
I think so! Cheers!
2 weld tacks so you have the grip back?
Yes! I was thinking this, thanks for your feedback !
for now you might need a grinder
I think you’re right, it may be the only course of action now. Thanks for your input, I’ll be checking out grinders in my local DIY store..🤔
Or dishing the wheel
I think the wheel is ok, but the spacer seems the right solution. I just have to try and ge that freewheel off!
@@thevelocollective343 have you tried a scaffold tube on the end of your wrench, I normally use a long lever right from the start on such as bb and sprockets it’s just so much torque you have but controlled without slipping off and injuring knuckles, or put sprocket tool in vice and turn wheel but personally I worry about twisting wheel that way but I have done it but still prefer the long bar
Dishing has no affect on the hub. Dishing is the process of getting the rim exactly centered between the hubs lock nuts.
... use a lock ring ...
Yes, something to create that space! Cheers!
@@thevelocollective343 I think wheelsmfg has the spacer you need to add a few mm behind your freewheel.
Any kind of lock ring will be too thick, shims/spacers are readily available, for use for exactly this issue and the same shims are also used to correct issues with bottom bracket shells.
1 - 1.5MM is usually plenty.