My Shimano Clutch Failed! *DIY Fix*
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2021
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Great video. My rear mech got a lot of water in it over the winter and it finally got stuck last week. I now know how to hopefully get it back to how it should be. 👍👍
Nice video man, u explain it perfectly and u made me understand all properly. Thanks!
I learned something new, thank you James.
Finally, lol. Glad to teach something!
Recently Park tool did this fix but they recommend a high performance(high temperature) grease for the clutch mechanism. Given how much this item moves it makes sense why normal grease would not be adequate. I found this out by experience when a clutch failed similarly to yours after about two months. After that I used Park Tool polylube and the clutch is too sticky still and required more maintenance after two more months. Just use high temp grease and you should be good!
Thank you James. I learned something new today
Glad it was helpful!
Nice job 👍
Thanks 👍
James, James, James, why I've landed on this video just yesterday, finally somebody in few words and steps revealed a big Mistery of Clutch Service, as when looked earlier on other channels some people advise for this activity almost parfect vaccum and antigravity conditions - thanks James! ...going to garage apply synthetic grease -35C + 190C from my hammer drill and clutch should be rebored again
synthetic works perfect, once more thanks James
Glad to help, happy riding!
I woud recommend to do the other side too, while your spring is getting quite rusty
Uh oh, rust 💀
Man that is a sick bike.
Thanks.
Great video. I have the same derailleur. It works great but when I compress the suspension with the clutch on it creaks. When the clutch is off it's silent. Any thoughts on that ?
Cheers
Sounds like the clutch needs service. When you turn it off the band opens and removes friction so it would make sense it gets quiet when you turn off the clutch
So sick! Could you use sram butter for the grease?
Probably.
I've done it, it works well. perfect for gear, brake wires too. it's very light grease, and very slippery, moves easily. it's suspension grease. so works great for stuff like this too.
Great vid. You are doing it the same way I am doing it, but I use Sram Butter. I've seen vid from another youtuber, he showed this too, but he had the whole RD off the bike.
09:04 but you mentioned a nut, a nut is no longer used, now it has a bolt, just like XT.
I've regularly serviced the clutch, but i can eventually wear out, so when you hear it making noise and feels rough, it probably has a worn clutch. but it's a long time until that happens. But I guess with regular use you might go trough 2-3 clutches maybe.
Interesting, looking forward to replacement in the future then, lol
@@Jamesthebikeguy sometimes the plate thing holding the shaped part can snap. Only happen once. But spares are easy to get. Sometimes the part also widens letting go of the part, I don't know wha tits called but the one that you use to switch the clutch on and off. Had it in the past.
@@Jamesthebikeguy another thing, I actually prefer the cover on the Deore, SlX cus it does not have the port, I had XT M8000 before I lost the cap two times, I lost original cap, it widened at the circle and just fell off, same with the replacement I got so I gave up. I had to close the hole with thick grease to prevent ingress of salty water and dirt. I don't know if they fixed it. But nice SLX and Deore has a bolt now instead of a nut like 10 speed had some years ago.
My SLX derailleur did the same thing, but unfortunately no amount of cleaning or re-lubing would bring it back.
Hmm too bad, luckily its cheap to buy the new clutch parts.
Is this a general service item - something I should check after every so many hours of riding?
Once a year should be enough.
Rather than sandpaper I would suggest very fine steel wool to prevent scouringnamdnkeeping the barrel smooth
Good idea
Seems rather confusing..shimano(mentioned in GMBN) that you should not lube the part where the clutch goes in. The one you sanded. But you did. So what's up?
W/O the lubricant it was still locking up, potentially a new barrel is in order, but a dab of lube and works properly. So who knows. 🤷♂️
@@Jamesthebikeguy interesting. Does the clutch still do its job? Like is there still difference between on and off? Coz maybe it can slip due to the lube. But idk havent tried that.
Yes infact it's demonstrated in the video, watch the barrels movement. Regardless the derailleur worked great on the couple of rides I have done since the video was made
this part actually comes with a thin white grease. but few months of riding and you need to clean it and add fresh grease. GMBN has a lot of good and correct info, but they don't always get every single thing right. but I don't know who told them you should not grease it.
Instructions on the Shimano website indicate not to lube the central axe
💪💪
👌
steel wool not sand paper my lord.
So dang rusted on? How old. Only derailleurs I had with a clutch broke in just a few miles of tar trail rides. Second the same. I don't think I will ever go to clutch again. I want to ride my bike with as little work as possible.
Just under 2yr. Lots of miles.
Another TH-cam vid on how not to service a Shimano clutch, don't put lube "just inside" 9:51 and wouldn't you dumb behind be better off placing lube around the o ring or even replacing it to keep out the water or better still correctly tighten the cover down in the first place? Don't use emery paper if you can avoid it to remove rust on precison parts and btw who gets rust in this area anyway?
Sounds like you're the authority on how to fix clutches. Help me understand why you've never made a video?
Right.. he lubed the area, where the „friction“ should happen. I wonder, if the clutch in „on“ position would still put more tention on the chain of his bike.
Too bad, that he couldn‘t work with your critics.
It''s best to share than dance on a keyboard expressing your judgements. Same suggestion goes to you. If you know how to do it "correctly", then it's time to share your knowledge with the world.
@@Jamesthebikeguy what would be added to the videos already in existance, a pointless & time wasting exercise very much like your comment!
ease up on the fast food chief.
You push hard on it, are you crazy? 1:05
Crazy, what about this is crazy?
Easily the Worst advice I've seen on servicing a Shimano Shadow RD+ (Chain Stabilizer or Clutch) type Derailleur, but it's not all your fault. A Major reason ANYONE has bothered to put out a YT vid tutorial on this "Chain Stabilizer", as Shimano call it, is simply because of the Horrible "Jinglish" Manuals that come w/ Japanese products. Has Anyone Ever seen a Japanese to English translated User/Maintenance Manual that got the terminology correct without butchering the English Language at the same time? Chinese to English Manuals are usually Worse, but I digress. The Point is, Shimano did a Poor Job of describing maintenance procedures for this Chain Stabilizer assy. It's actually a Very Simple Clutch, or Spring Steel Band, wrapped around a Sprag Bearing (the center "Barrel" part of this assembly). The Third part of this Stabilizer assy is the Cam w/ the tension adjustment, which is pretty self-explanatory. The Sprag Bearing at the center of this Stabilizer assy, is a Very unique type of Roller (or Needle) bearing. It's designed to have it's internally exposed Rollers rotate on the "Plate" Axle (or Cage axle) Pin in One direction only, and to Lock-Up on the Pin when rotated the opposite direction. IOW, a Sprag Bearing works as a one-way bearing, and functionally does the same thing as a Cassette over a Freewheel mechanism, except the Sprag Bearing will Lock in any position where the Cassette needs to rotate a few degrees to it's next locking position. The Sprag Bearing has Pre-Loaded Spring Steel "wedges or blades" behind each roller that unload in one direction and allow Free Rotation of each Roller Bearing, and Lock-Up each roller when rotated the Opposite direction by forcing the Rollers onto the Shaft (or "Pin" at the end of the Cage Axle in this case). The Pin that the Sprag Bearing rotates on is actually the Inner Race of this Bearing, and is SHOT if it's rusted or pitted. The Locking Function of the Sprag Bearing won't function properly if either the Rollers or Pin are corroded. Two things, NEVER apply Sand Paper to the Cage Axle Pin. The Sprag Bearing Rides over the Pin as Any Bearing does and requires a smooth, machine finished, surface to Rotate or Lock-Up properly. Second, the Shimano Manual DOES warn about applying the Hub Grease to the inside rollers of the "Roller Clutch" (as referred to in the Dealers Manual) but also says to Lubricate every rotating surface on the Derailleur on page 4 of the DM under "Installation/Maintenance" notes. So Yea, DO clean the insides of the Sprag Bearing and apply Light Oil (not Grease), to the rollers. Clean the Cage Axle Pin w/ Extra Fine 3M Grey colored Scotch Brite or finer cloth if it's corroded. If it won't clean up w/ Fine Scotch Brite, replace it, otherwise just lean and apply light oil. Sanding this Bearing Support Shaft (Pin) is Asking for trouble and Will cause early failure of the Sprag Bearing. Just replace the Cage Axle Pin and lube the stupid thing at the same time, you'll have a MUCH smoother operating Derailleur. Next time you have this Chain Stabilizer apart for cleaning, clean and lightly oil the Sprag Bearing, place it on the Pin and check it for yourself. It should rotate Freely Clockwise and Lock-Up in any position when rotated Counterclockwise. The Sprag Bearing simply provides Free Rotation CW (retraction) of the Cage assy and Locks, or stops, the Cage assy from rotating CCW to force the Clutch portion (Steel Band) to provide Regulated Friction depending on how tight you set the Steel Band tension. Shimano recommends 3.5 - 5.4 Nm for the Clutch Drag on the Shadow RD+. Sanding Any Bearing Inner Race or Pin surface will Not be found in Any Manual, is Really Bad Advice and is likely going to cause more Maint Issues, especially w/ a setup like this.
Oye
@@Jamesthebikeguy Apologies for sounding harsh. I'd misspelled the name Sprague and have edited my comment to the correct spelling, Sprag. If you were to search the Interweb for Sprag Bearing you'd find it's often referred to as a Sprag Clutch. From my experience w/ this type of One-Way Bearing, I've yet to see one that has a "Clutch", or regulated Drag feature built into one. If this Bearing goes for too long without oil it Will eventually slip on its Inner Race (or Pin in this case) and you'll Know something is wrong by the noise and/or erratic slippage in the Lock Direction. For what it's worth, the Park Tool vid on maintaining the Shadow RD+ "Chain Stabilizer" advises to Never lube the inside of this Bearing (against Shimano's recommendation per the Dealer Manual) and I commented on their YT vid as well. If you watch the opening of their Vid you'll see the mechanic grab the Cage and force it to Rotate forward (CCW). That horrible Ratcheting Sound it makes is the dry and dirty Sprag Bearing slipping in its Locking direction but he doesn't know it and thinks it's the Clutch Band making all the racket. I found out about this strange little Bearing the Hard way in the mid 80's. It was in the exact same type of application and Not maintaining it properly cost me a few bucks in Down Time and replacement parts. Shimano will likely never clarify the DM on this device but if you read thru the Installation and Maintenance paragraph in the DM introduction on page 4, it "inadvertently" says that All moving components on this Derailleur need Cleaning & Lubrication. I just upgraded my bike from the old Altus RD series 1 x 9 speed to a Deore RD-M5120 in a 1 x 10 speed setup. Could have gone w/ the RD-M4120 w/o the stupid "Chain Stabilizer" (meaning less maintenance) but the M5120 allows for a bigger low gear sprocket and so I've watched every YT vid I could find on this. I also have written Maintenance Safety Reporting Tutorials for the FAA's part 121 & 135 (commercial) Air Carriers which sort of explains the lengthy Text and Details I tend to go to. The other reason is because thats what Old Anal Retentive Germans w/ OCD tend to DO! Happy Trails & keep after it cause there's always more to than we realize.
Great insight! This was exactly the type of information I was looking for in my search, but it is nowhere explained properly. I will apply a bit of PTFE chain oil on the inside of the clutch before installing it back on.
@@peterfick9825 My first experience w/ a Sprag Bearing/Clutch was with my early Radio Controlled Helicopter days. This same type of bearing is what allows the Main Rotor to continue to rotate after an Engine flame-out, allowing the operator to do an Autorotation, uncovered, Landing. I learned that by not cleaning the Sprag Bearing (pressed fit into the primary output gear with the Rotor main shaft thru the center), the entire Rotor would stop turning as soon as the engine was shut off or had quit. Just cleaning the Sprag Bearing & applying some light machine oil allowed nearly perfect "Freewheeling" of the main Rotor shaft when the engine stopped and had a nonslip hold on the main shaft while under power.
It's the same Bearing used in these "clutch" type derailleurs.
@@uuzd4s Unfortunately the oil didn't fix it for me. There still is too much friction causing the derailleur to remain stuck in the high cog position with the clutch on. I had to lower the clutch tension in the end to make it work, but that makes the clutch less effective. My derailleur is in a much better condition then the derailleur in this video (no rust or whatsoever). I still believe you are right though about lubricating the cage axle / sprag bearing. Maybe it needs to break in a bit. If it doesn't improve I will open up the derailleur and give the tension spring a good clean and regrease.