I hear ya. Mine was 1983 it was $400 But then $1500 in 86. My parents thought I was crazy. I told them it was cheeper than drugs.. Then they were ok with it! lol
It was thanks to a Peugeot catalog in the ‘70s that I decided a _great_ bike needed to run tubulars. When I finally built such a bike in the ‘90s, I proudly ran tubs. I only replaced that bike a few years ago with one that uses tubeless. In my long experience, old, dry tubular glue gets pretty brittle, but it doesn’t vanish. I don’t think that rim had enough glue on it.
Great you tube channel! My friend had one in high school I had a gitane with simplex. Then I upgraded to Raleigh pro with Nuevo record. Wish I still had that bike!
You're holding your own John, I'm rooting for for you. Good job on part 2. In light of the star being a little French seductress have you considered doing part 3 in the French film noir style?
Hi John I had the same problem with a Stronglight 49D chainset. I managed to get it off using a three arm gear puller, carefully placing the three arms on the back of the small ring. I managed to get a proper TA chainset puller later from an ebay seller in Poland. Nice video, and great bike.
Thanks. The garage is among a few car collectors and mechanics and was offered what is probably a simular puller. I got lucky that the crankset was not on tightly. Thanks for the info!
I have a very old one of those pullers. Unbranded, but probably French made. It's tiny when compared to a Campagnolo. Literally 5 full threads to screw onto the crank. Also a very short shank that pushes against the spindle.
Always wanted a PX10 just never got around to buying one. I would have done the same thing with the crank puller. Not much more you could have done. I like to polish up those small parts like the cable guides and pump holders and re-install them.
Thanks for this video. Some of the hardest bike mechanic lessons Ive learned have been working on Peugeots of this era. I collected vintage roadbikes/parts for many years and had a nice little inventory. Couple years ago a friend gave me Peugeot that looks identical to the one you are working on, except for having cottered Simplex crank/chainwheel. I assume you are familiar with cottered cranks, 😢. My plan was to swap em for a set of Nervar cranks. I figgered they were an upgrade, and though likely 10 years younger than the bike, were at least french. Well, Ive given up on removing the cranks and just ride it original. For a relatively heavy bike, late 60's I figger, its so nice to ride. Mine has quite an upright steer tube, hence short, sporty wheelbase. At present, I dont have wheels on it, hoping an appropriate set comes my way. I think I had 27" wheels when I got it, but it beautifully lets you use 700 too. I mostly have japanese steel bikes, Im a fan, but the humle old Peugeot really holds its own. BTW, does anyone know much about when/where 27" wheels were used?
Thanks for sharing! All of that. Sounds odd but I would like a vintage bike of decent quality that has cottered cranks. A lot of good quality bikes had them way back when. Most American bikes used 27-in. Sometime in the early '80s, most performance bikes switched to 700c. My expertise ends when it comes to the 1960s and before. Thanks for watching.
I had those "fake stitching" Simplex shift levers on my 1975 French bike. They were the next level up from the blocky ones you saw on the lower end Peugeots. Need a special obsolete tool to pull the cranks on a French bike? Vive la France! Let's hope you don't have to find a part with French threads!
I looked at my TA puller and it looks like only 5-6 threads were used. Looking at the discoloration. Last time I used this was on a Stronglight 93 in 1979.
Actually John the Stronglight crank bolt puller and the Specialties TA crank bolt puller are not compatible. You have to have the one specific to the crankset. I have two Stronglight pullers, old and new, (also incompatible) and I just got the Specialties TA bolt puller this week.
Using the crank puller like a tap is exactly what I would have done…a little nerve wracking but it usually works (so would an automotive gear puller). With that “indexing” BB, I thought for sure there would be some pitting on the cups and/or spindle…lucky!
Just from a glimpse, it looks to me like you have the premium jockey wheels. You can actually take those apart and change the ball bearings and grease.
Hola ,buen trabajo, Yo tengo un peugeot PKN10, en el tubo superior pone COMPETITION,y he visto que en algunas pone CURSE ..... Podría ayudarme y decirme cual es la diferencia ?? Gracias, saludos desde Sevilla España
Wow thats cool what year is the PX? That superior belonged to a local racer that was VERY involved throughout the late 70s and 80s. His name was Ed Kron. The Krons were deeply involved in chicago area cycling for a long time.
that's weird that the right crank dustcap threaded in fine, but the puller didn't. I might have tried swapping dustcaps between the left and right crank, just in case there was a difference in threading. ..or maybe hold the dustcap threads against the puller's threads, to confirm that the pitch was the same? Perhaps the crank's threads were just filled with some petrified 1970's grease?
I bought a vintage Peugeot too. Little more than a year ago. 3 tube Reynolds and the Simplex/Stronglight/Mafac group. Very beautiful and in a good condition. But the stem is not original. It's a Japanese SR. And it's stuck. I mean VERY stuck. You need a lot of patience with this. Not my strong side. You have any advice?
Probably 22.2 mm rather than 22.0 (French stem diameter). put 2 blocks of wood around the stem and put the entire stem in a vise, attached to frame, upside-down. Use a 2x4 for leverage and rock the fork until the stem breaks free! You can also sacrifice the sr stem they're a commodity IMHO ...
@@dgillies5420 Hi! Thank you very much. No, I don't care about the SR stem at all. Maybe the last advice is the best. Will it be difficult to remove, you think?
@@nielskjr5432 A friend did it for a bike i bought just 2w ago, fairly easily, it all depends on how much of the problem is tightness and how much is electrochemical bonding between the aluminum and steel.
I would replace the stem, they are infamous for breaking. On my 71 PX10 the skewers, and shifters were chrome, without plastic covers. The safety levers are not original. The crankset is not original, PX10 came with cotters.
I don't believe it came with cottered cranks that year. I hear you on the stem. And the brake levers. I'm changing the brake levers to wienmen however, I'm keeping this stem stock. Much to your chagrin this bicycle will most likely not be ridden by myself. It's too small. Next guy can change the stem. Thanks for watching
Hey John, been watching your videos for a little while now. Insane collection! I'm just curious, how would someone possibly message you about some old bikes? Can't wait to see this bike cleaned up!
@@markmiller8903 I usually don't reveal what I pay for things. Your best bet would would be going to eBay or any other sales sites and take an average. It's all it depends on condition.
Those tires were never glued properly in the first place. The clear glue back than was crap ( name escapes me ). We used the red Clement which dried hard and brittle but melted in hot weather or left in a hot car.
In racing you always had a second set of wheels. Perhaps even clinchers. But you would always use a pair of sewup rims that you weren't using to stretch out a brand new pair of sew up tires. It made it a lot easier than trying to put a brand new pair that was always folded up in a box directly into a rim. So having no glue or dryed up old glue on the rims that you used for stretching was best.
@@ronaldangelini7983 I remember when I was working at a shop we had a old beat upset of sew up rims we'd use to always have a stretched set of tires sitting around.
I don't see much worth noting on the PX-10. The frame is okay and the crank is decent but that's about it. It won one year of the Tour De France so what that tells me is it must have been more about the rider than the equipment. Which is still the case. What's so magical about Simplex? I never understood. And those brakes seem kind of cringe worthy.
I really enjoy watching you working on this kind of bikes
shockingly fantastic you are about as competent mechanic i have ever had the honor of seeing
Thanks so much. I've been wrenching since I was 15.
My first racer circa 1972 ❤ To all my high school friends it was "the $300 bike!" Thanks for the post!
I hear ya. Mine was 1983 it was $400 But then $1500 in 86. My parents thought I was crazy. I told them it was cheeper than drugs.. Then they were ok with it! lol
This was interesting to watch. Looks like a cool old bike. 👍
Thanks. Check out ShockerRacing channel people!
The BB removal Gods were with you👏👏
Yes, that could of ended badly! LOL
PX10 is my absolute favorite mass produced racing bike. Great work so far!
Thanks Brian.
me 2
It was thanks to a Peugeot catalog in the ‘70s that I decided a _great_ bike needed to run tubulars. When I finally built such a bike in the ‘90s, I proudly ran tubs. I only replaced that bike a few years ago with one that uses tubeless.
In my long experience, old, dry tubular glue gets pretty brittle, but it doesn’t vanish. I don’t think that rim had enough glue on it.
I haven't been a huge fan of tubulars. I should use them more on the vintage bikes however!
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage You have to really _want_ to use them, I think. 😂
Love this video! I recently finished rebuilding a 1983 PH-10 and it was a blast.
I will have to look that one up. Thanks for watching
Great you tube channel! My friend had one in high school I had a gitane with simplex. Then I upgraded to Raleigh pro with Nuevo record. Wish I still had that bike!
Both those bikes are coveted today. Esp the Raleigh Pro. I have one on the channel. Two actually an 80 and a 74
Hi I love your job
The park tool has a reversible end with both threads I used to thread and file the hanger to use Japanese or campy rear derailleur
You're holding your own John, I'm rooting for for you. Good job on part 2. In light of the star being a little French seductress have you considered doing part 3 in the French film noir style?
Part three and four are coming! Thanks for watching
Hi John I had the same problem with a Stronglight 49D chainset. I managed to get it off using a three arm gear puller, carefully placing the three arms on the back of the small ring. I managed to get a proper TA chainset puller later from an ebay seller in Poland. Nice video, and great bike.
Thanks. The garage is among a few car collectors and mechanics and was offered what is probably a simular puller. I got lucky that the crankset was not on tightly. Thanks for the info!
I have a very old one of those pullers. Unbranded, but probably French made. It's tiny when compared to a Campagnolo. Literally 5 full threads to screw onto the crank. Also a very short shank that pushes against the spindle.
It was funny. I was glad that it didn't take a lot of force to get them off. Not sure if the 3 or 4 threads would of been enough!
J A STEIN tools makes the crank puller for this bike. A great husband and wife company out of Arizona and a pleasure to do business with.
Hey hey, that's cool. That's the brand I have.
Very good
Thanks
I got my TA 23 mm puller from J. A. Stein tools. Super quality.
You are correct. That is who I got mine from.
Old Stronglight is 23,35 mm, but sometimes a 23 tool does the job and sometimes it breaks...
Always wanted a PX10 just never got around to buying one. I would have done the same thing with the crank puller. Not much more you could have done. I like to polish up those small parts like the cable guides and pump holders and re-install them.
I'm with you, pretty sure we will reinstall all of that stuff. I bought a buffing wheel that mounts to my grinder. I will put that to good use.
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage that’s what I use.
Thanks for this video. Some of the hardest bike mechanic lessons Ive learned have been working on Peugeots of this era.
I collected vintage roadbikes/parts for many years and had a nice little inventory. Couple years ago a friend gave me Peugeot that looks identical to the one you are working on, except for having cottered Simplex crank/chainwheel. I assume you are familiar with cottered cranks, 😢. My plan was to swap em for a set of Nervar cranks. I figgered they were an upgrade, and though likely 10 years younger than the bike, were at least french. Well, Ive given up on removing the cranks and just ride it original. For a relatively heavy bike, late 60's I figger, its so nice to ride. Mine has quite an upright steer tube, hence short, sporty wheelbase. At present, I dont have wheels on it, hoping an appropriate set comes my way. I think I had 27" wheels when I got it, but it beautifully lets you use 700 too. I mostly have japanese steel bikes, Im a fan, but the humle old Peugeot really holds its own. BTW, does anyone know much about when/where 27" wheels were used?
Thanks for sharing! All of that. Sounds odd but I would like a vintage bike of decent quality that has cottered cranks. A lot of good quality bikes had them way back when. Most American bikes used 27-in. Sometime in the early '80s, most performance bikes switched to 700c. My expertise ends when it comes to the 1960s and before. Thanks for watching.
@JJhabbs Wow! Thanks for your reply. The only community of enthusiasts I have is online. So, having you even read my comment means a lot.
@@karlnorgaard9447 I've always said this is a pretty lonely hobby. That is what got me to start a channel in the first place. Keep in touch.
I had those "fake stitching" Simplex shift levers on my 1975 French bike. They were the next level up from the blocky ones you saw on the lower end Peugeots. Need a special obsolete tool to pull the cranks on a French bike? Vive la France! Let's hope you don't have to find a part with French threads!
I did find the tool on eBay. Wasn't too difficult. I'm glad that all the threaded bits are in good shape. Fairly lucky. Thanks for watching
I looked at my TA puller and it looks like only 5-6 threads were used. Looking at the discoloration. Last time I used this was on a Stronglight 93 in 1979.
Interesting news!
Actually John the Stronglight crank bolt puller and the Specialties TA crank bolt puller are not compatible. You have to have the one specific to the crankset. I have two Stronglight pullers, old and new, (also incompatible) and I just got the Specialties TA bolt puller this week.
I thought I got the correct one. In the left arm it threaded all the way in smoothly and firmly.
Using the crank puller like a tap is exactly what I would have done…a little nerve wracking but it usually works (so would an automotive gear puller). With that “indexing” BB, I thought for sure there would be some pitting on the cups and/or spindle…lucky!
Thanks, I think the BB was just a hair too tight and dry. Insert joke here. Should be fine lol
Just from a glimpse, it looks to me like you have the premium jockey wheels. You can actually take those apart and change the ball bearings and grease.
I'll be starting on that kind of stuff this week. Hopefully have another video on this bike by the weekend. Thanks for watching
Hola ,buen trabajo,
Yo tengo un peugeot PKN10, en el tubo superior pone COMPETITION,y he visto que en algunas pone CURSE .....
Podría ayudarme y decirme cual es la diferencia ??
Gracias, saludos desde Sevilla España
Hello, I am not an expert on these models. Google old catalogs. Thats the best thing to do. Thanks
Hi John, is that superior in the bacround from kurt kaminer? just git a px -10 today !!
Wow thats cool what year is the PX? That superior belonged to a local racer that was VERY involved throughout the late 70s and 80s. His name was Ed Kron. The Krons were deeply involved in chicago area cycling for a long time.
that's weird that the right crank dustcap threaded in fine, but the puller didn't. I might have tried swapping dustcaps between the left and right crank, just in case there was a difference in threading. ..or maybe hold the dustcap threads against the puller's threads, to confirm that the pitch was the same? Perhaps the crank's threads were just filled with some petrified 1970's grease?
Excellent suggestions. I did all of that, just did not do it on camera. Thanks for watching
French quality!
I bought a vintage Peugeot too. Little more than a year ago. 3 tube Reynolds and the Simplex/Stronglight/Mafac group. Very beautiful and in a good condition. But the stem is not original. It's a Japanese SR. And it's stuck. I mean VERY stuck. You need a lot of patience with this. Not my strong side.
You have any advice?
Probably 22.2 mm rather than 22.0 (French stem diameter). put 2 blocks of wood around the stem and put the entire stem in a vise, attached to frame, upside-down. Use a 2x4 for leverage and rock the fork until the stem breaks free! You can also sacrifice the sr stem they're a commodity IMHO ...
@@dgillies5420 Hi! Thank you very much. No, I don't care about the SR stem at all. Maybe the last advice is the best.
Will it be difficult to remove, you think?
Oh, French diameters and French threads ... it's all coming back to me now ... (facial ticks and twitching) 😵💫
@@nielskjr5432 A friend did it for a bike i bought just 2w ago, fairly easily, it all depends on how much of the problem is tightness and how much is electrochemical bonding between the aluminum and steel.
Are you a bike collector or do you sell those bikes. You have a lot of bikes behind.
Hi, I seldomly sell a bicycle. Thanks for watching
I would replace the stem, they are infamous for breaking. On my 71 PX10 the skewers, and shifters were chrome, without plastic covers. The safety levers are not original. The crankset is not original, PX10 came with cotters.
I don't believe it came with cottered cranks that year. I hear you on the stem. And the brake levers. I'm changing the brake levers to wienmen however, I'm keeping this stem stock. Much to your chagrin this bicycle will most likely not be ridden by myself. It's too small. Next guy can change the stem. Thanks for watching
Hey John, been watching your videos for a little while now. Insane collection! I'm just curious, how would someone possibly message you about some old bikes? Can't wait to see this bike cleaned up!
Hi, I'm thinking about what to do. Thinking about doing a special email address. If you're on Facebook my name is John Haboush.
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage thank you for the reply! I sent you a message on fb.
Hey John, can I ask how much a bike like that costs??
@@markmiller8903 I usually don't reveal what I pay for things. Your best bet would would be going to eBay or any other sales sites and take an average. It's all it depends on condition.
OK thanks John I'll do that.
Those tires were never glued properly in the first place. The clear glue back than was crap ( name escapes me ). We used the red Clement which dried hard and brittle but melted in hot weather or left in a hot car.
Correct. I cant think of that glue either.. Tressostar? something like that?
In racing you always had a second set of wheels. Perhaps even clinchers. But you would always use a pair of sewup rims that you weren't using to stretch out a brand new pair of sew up tires. It made it a lot easier than trying to put a brand new pair that was always folded up in a box directly into a rim. So having no glue or dryed up old glue on the rims that you used for stretching was best.
@@ronaldangelini7983 I remember when I was working at a shop we had a old beat upset of sew up rims we'd use to always have a stretched set of tires sitting around.
"Indexed cranks" ha! 😂😃😆😅
No grease or lube + slightly over tight = indexed cranks. LOL
😂 I hate when there’s balls all over the floor.
Thought someone would notice that. lol
Hope to understand why the crank was indexing in the next video?
From what it looks like so far, I think the bearings were slightly tight and outrageously dry. And I do mean dry. Lol
I'll send you the puller.
I appreciate the offer. If you watch the entire vid you'll see that I have the tool and got the crankset off. Thanks!!!
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage id sent the message before you pulled the crank.
I use a kitty litter tray under the bb and headset to catch the loose balls.
Well! Im not that smart!! LOL GREAT suggestion!
I don't see much worth noting on the PX-10. The frame is okay and the crank is decent but that's about it. It won one year of the Tour De France so what that tells me is it must have been more about the rider than the equipment. Which is still the case. What's so magical about Simplex? I never understood. And those brakes seem kind of cringe worthy.
When I started working at the bike shop I person could buy a px-10 for 130 bucks