You need a pump that can handle some pressure, even running a hose on the end causes flow drop because of the extra load. Each heat exchanger is a restriction, water needs to move up/down, through bends etc
I have one of these setups with a "350hp" type 13 exchanger (Car makes about 500 crank hp), fairly large , thick radiator with good airflow and Bosch pump.. my post IC IATs are in the 80s-90s Farenheit at max boost though (Note, relatively low vehicle speed - about 60mph @ max boost because these are test runs on the street) a little hot for me. There is a pump called a Davies Craig 9040 which has about 2x as powerful as the Bosch. It is also brushless. It is a little expensive ($200) but my theory is opposite yours, I think the more flow, the better. So I will see how it goes when I get a chance to try this pump.
Please share your results when you get them! In custom building radiators for water cooled conversions in cars I found that too much flow didn't allow for proper heat disapation. The good thing about those Davies Craig pumps is they can be ramped up with voltage. I run the larger unit in my 914.
I run their aluminum body EWP150 with controller for my 1.8t conversion. Honestly it's way to much pump for the engine. It stays in it's purge cycle pretty much all the time. The only issue I've had is it works too good :) I have a hard time getting the engine up to temp. I'm currently blocking off half the radiator and that seems to work OK. But it's also winter.. I'm going to build in a thermostat and heater bypass, which should solve my issue.
Gr8 vid. Your right out the pump .there's always a cheeper way just got to find it. I used a 130psi max water pump £19:00 . And used it for a M&w kit with a 1st solenoid to the spray then I just used a cheque one-way valve worked fine. Love the vids👍
Great video, I’m contemplating adding an air to water intercooler potentially in addition to my air to air. However I am hoping to make around 800 hp so I’m probably gonna need some thing that flows well
@@budgetoutlaws9978 yea, so my car is fine in colder temps and regular driving, but on long pulls like drag racing the iats climb rapidly. Maybe if I can have it to turn the pump on when I’m gonna race to keep it cool, instead of having it run all the time. I could mount a small a2w right after my a2a
I think that's a solid idea. You could also put a large ice box to plumb cold water through it for drag passes. Just make sure you have that radiator (if you use one with the setup) away from raidant heat like the engine radiator. It needs clean air to work properly.
Thanks for the info. I'm looking at a2w for my mrs turbo project the motorcycle radiator is a good idea. The fan idea is a bit tricky as I'm not to good with wiring stuff in the car lol. Cheers
Just subscribed, thanks for the info 👍🏻 We're planning a Mercedes turbodiesel swap and they're known for running hot so it'd make sense to run an a/w setup and leave more space for the engine radiator up front. I was always put off the idea of an a/w setup on a diesel turbo engine under load a lot of the time as I thought the coolant water would get hot quickly and stay hot constantly. Is this generally the case if you're on boost a lot of the time and can it be remedied with a big heat exchanger and radiator setup? Thanks a lot 🍻
Cool video cheap chooses they would work need a lot of modding that sensor is not treaded but u can convert it to a there by destroying an old sensor and using the probe in the housing with a bit of thermal paste and some glue to in case everything some epoxy resin if possible or something similar but water to air is actually cheaper or maybe not but simpler and not so many bends and pipes makes the engine bay look cleaner also it doesn’t heat soak
So-called air to water intercoolers only have two advantages and that is size and placement. They are much smaller than a traditional intercooler and are easier to place in a tight engine bay. The negative is they are less efficient and suffer heat soak in traffic. They are great in boats that have a constant supply of cold water or drag racing where you have a water tank full of ice. In a road car they are still an air to air intercooler, water is just a carrier of heat from one heat exchanger to another. The problem with this is as the water heats up (especially in traffic when there is low air movement to cool it) it becomes less efficient and takes a long time to cool back down. The manufacturers that use this system generally use it on supercharged cars because it can be fitted in the inlet manifold under the supercharger saving space. They also have thermostatically controlled fans to help with heat soak when the water gets too hot. Some even utilise the air conditioning to keep the water temp down.
Just wondering why you wouldn’t just plumb the hot end into the side of the tank and pull from the bottom. Do you need that small line for some reason? I plan on using a small heat exchanger and a ice box on my Willy’s build
The reason you dont put the hot side to the side of the tank is so you dont have to push all the hot water way high. Im sure doing it the way your describing will work (And that might even be preferable for a ice box system, so long as the ice box is above the radiator and IC), in fact its how the old radiator systems worked, but this way allows for most of the water to stay at or level with the enclosed system and just have a small portion of the fluid that has to make its way higher up in the system. Also I had the room for the extra hoses and routed my engine cooling system the same way so I wanted to be consistent. Just remember, the highest point in the system needs to be the fill.
The cool water from the radiator runs somewhere between 130-150F so unless you want your intake air temps to be 30-80deg higher than ambient temp, then the answer is no. You cannot just use the "cool" water from the Rad. You need to have a dedicated radiator system for the air to water intercooler.
I was thinking of using an AC condenser as an heat exchanger for my car. Since my car doesn't have AC I can fit the condenser just like if I had AC. 100$ for the condenser + 160 for the biggest epman barrel intercooler.
Ac condenser is going to have really small pours and a small inlet/outlet. Not sure you’ll get the flow you want with that but you can always experiment. Additionally you want to have the heat exchanger away from other heat sources so you don’t get heat soak.
How much of a heat exchanger do you think I'll need for about 650hp? I'm only running about 8psi and I have tbi style EFI so I get charge cooling from the atomized fuel in the wet intake manifold. I've heard carburetors can lower IATs by 100°F. I was looking at an 18"x14"x2" radiator as a heat exchanger. I'm looking at running a very similar ebay air to water intercooler. That size of a heat exhanger would leave my options pretty slim for a transmission cooler. I just had a custom torque converter built and picked up the automatic trans yesterday so I want to take care of my new transmission too. If I could get by with something smaller on the heat exchanger side, my trans would be very appreciative. It's a daily driver, 355cid. It has a centrifugal supercharger running at 8psi at 5500rpms. My cruising IATs are usually hovering around 100°F but can get much higher under load. The truck weighs 5600lbs. Thanks man. This is my first foray into intercooling any of my personal stuff.
Lots of variables there, I say give it a shot with what you have planned. . The biggest thing you want to avoid with your setup is heat soak into the intercooler radiator. You need clean air no where near another radiator. Being a daily driver if you out it in front of your condenser or engine rad youll have heat soak idling around. I put my radiator in my fender with a fan, so far it barely turns on the fan. So you could always expand with another radiator in the fender if you needed it. Your build sounds like fun :)
@@budgetoutlaws9978 my fenderwells are pretty full with electronics and relays and my ignition system. I may have room to remote mount a radiator for the intercooler with a fan. it just looks like an ordinary old farm truck. It's not taken to the extreme that farm truck does it, but it's unsuspecting for sure. It's a 1990 Chevy Silverado 2500 4x4. There is a hellcat challenger in my hometown and every time I'm around him at a stoplight he thinks I'm challenging him to a race. I'm like "Calm down there fella. You'll know it when I'm getting on it." Lol. I have single 4" open exhaust. It really thunders do i can see why the hellcat acts like he does. It looks like stock diesel pickup until you fire up the engine. It's a diesel exhaust system with no muffler. I built a 3"-into-4" y pipe from my headers to mate to a diesel exhaust system for a 6.5 turbodiesel for my body style of pickup. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
How about rear fender wells? Or between the cab and the bed? Generally a lot more room in the rear than people suspect. That's where I have mine in my 914. The longer your lines, the more water that's in the system and the more efficient it will be. You also have under the bed you could use. Lots and lots of space there. Hell you could mount a full radiator under there.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 I have a 34 gallon gas tank on the driver's side and my exhaust system runs along the passenger's side. I think i could fit a decent sized heat exchanger behind the gas tank. The spare tire mounts between the framerails and above the axle. I'd rather not mount anything inside the wheelwells or outside of the framerails because it's a 4x4 truck and I do take it off road sometimes. I think just behind the fuel tank on the driver's side frame will work great with an auxiliary fan. Thanks for the suggestions. Where did you get your fan controller? I've used some adjustable fan relay controllers but I feel like they all start at like 160°F at the lowest. I know 8psi doesn't create that much heat, but I'd like it to stay as cool as possible. I'll just throw a small reservoir in the engine bay so I can fill it. Thanks for the suggestions. Good luck with your projects.
Yes. The cooling system runs at 180-220deg depending on the car. You want water to be as cold as possible, and as close to ambient as you can. Intake air temperature should be as low as possible for power and prevent detonation. I run about 100-120 deg intake air temps on a hot day under load for example.
You could. But a properly sized IC either A2A or A2W will do the job itself will less pressure loss. And A2W by itself is generally more efficient but also a more complicated system. You can also super cool the water with ice and bring the charge air temp below ambient.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 brilliant! I have been trying to find out if I can for a while now so glad you replied thank you And thanks for the suggestions on a better system
You've got enough room for a big air to air intercooler, but if you wanted to go air to water the same large ebay intercooler I mention in the video would work for you. Just be sure to put your hear exchanger in your fender or some place away from any heat source.
because when the can of 'dust cleaner' was compressed, it probably got just a little hotter than how cold it gets (relative to ambient // 'delta' ) whence you released the air. :)
There are no set sizes for specific power. But the more long sustained use like a track day will require a larger heat exchanger. The typical 24 x8" heat exchanger on ebay should be more than enough for you but you might be able to get away with the tiny motorcycle heat exchanger like I run. The most critical thing is to make sure you run the heat exchanger no where near any ambient heat source. While in front of the radiator might seem like a good idea it's going to heat soak. I would stay 6" away from any heat source and you'll find it is much more efficient. Good luck!
So an intercooler is technically a reverse radiator so you have to determine how much heat your going to be making with your turbo setup. If you have a big turbo pushing a small amount of boost the answer is not much heat. If you have a small turbo and are pushing at or above the turbos efficiency range your going to want to go with an intercooler that's at least rated to the HP rating your looking to make. Air to Water intercoolers are extremely efficient regarding spacing so you won't see the same kind of pressure loss as you would from an air to air IC. So it's a good idea to go much bigger than you need. For example I have a 700hp core intercooler but I won't ever likely see that much power. But I see IATs that are almost always at or just above ambient temp. Hope this helps.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 i dont scary for intake temp i scary for this that my engine can't breath frow this intercooler understand? Lost power if is to inside is 1 bar and outside is 0.8 bar .. core must have be enough for 7500ccm this is little hp but his have much ccm3.. understand?
Sorry no, there must be a language barrier your using terms I don't recognize. Taking a stab at it you have a 7500 cubic inch diesel tractor that makes 130hp, which for a diesel is irrelevant as torque is the number that counts there. Then your making 1 bar of boost at the plumbing and it's giving you .8 bar at the manifold. Here's the issue, diesels are totally different in how they make power vs gasoline. You might be better off without an intercooler or with a small intercooler than with an extremely efficient one.... I would get in touch with a diesel tuner and ask them their opinion. Sorry I can't help much.
Yes you can do that, just be careful to make sure you account for area for water flow. You will need to cap the area where air typically flows through the intercooler and put an inlet and outlet fitting on it. Note that an air to air is much less efficient so you don’t need as large as a intercooler with air to water. Figure 1/3 the side as a starting point.
Awesome, I’m trying to do some kind of unique with a base model civic. I’d like to run a AMR (roots) supercharger, and I just recently discovered this option. I know that I’m gonna need a way to cool the air that it’s producing and most other designed to fit superchargers are cooled other ways. So I’d like to run an air to water cooler. This was a great video, would you be interested in showing your setup?
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Lots of v8 cars run roots blowers with a A2W, you can likely run a very small IC like I showed in the video. My setup is just the large IC on the side of my engine bay. I did a poor job of showing it in the video.... I'll have to do a follow up on it in the future :)
Definitely hit peaking (max the mic input) with this unintentionally. I had the mic on boost and I'll try it without that next time. Still working on a decent microphone setup/lapel mic and haven't found anything I like. Also I was speaking towards a garage door so there was too much eco. I'll put a blanket behind the camera next video to absorb some eco. We're still learning!! I appreciate the constructive criticism!
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You can put 730 herspers on a golf without an intercooler.
You could play it at 1.25 speed ;) I did this one off the cuff with a basic outline. I now know that I simply have to write it all out and read from the script.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 that's fair. I never think to change the speed I always just play as is and always forget to change the speed. I'm glad you didn't take offense. Shows me you are true ginger lol
Why have more people not seen this information? This is good stuff. Even after being in the game for 15 years
Prius inverter 2009 pumps are good also in flow, and OEM quality
Never heard of this - based on initial research - sweet find - thanks!
Found it on yt, bought a 2nd hand on the junkyard. Tested it for flow and its all good. 👌
Ain't no Prius parts going on my cat deleted supercharged v8 ozone depleating baby, believe me you, that I'll be the day..
You need a pump that can handle some pressure, even running a hose on the end causes flow drop because of the extra load. Each heat exchanger is a restriction, water needs to move up/down, through bends etc
I'm extremely relieved I've found your channel.
How do you route the heat exchanger
I have one of these setups with a "350hp" type 13 exchanger (Car makes about 500 crank hp), fairly large , thick radiator with good airflow and Bosch pump.. my post IC IATs are in the 80s-90s Farenheit at max boost though (Note, relatively low vehicle speed - about 60mph @ max boost because these are test runs on the street) a little hot for me. There is a pump called a Davies Craig 9040 which has about 2x as powerful as the Bosch. It is also brushless. It is a little expensive ($200) but my theory is opposite yours, I think the more flow, the better. So I will see how it goes when I get a chance to try this pump.
Please share your results when you get them!
In custom building radiators for water cooled conversions in cars I found that too much flow didn't allow for proper heat disapation. The good thing about those Davies Craig pumps is they can be ramped up with voltage. I run the larger unit in my 914.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 Ahhh ok cool thanks! Is it the 9040 that you run or one of their bigger pumps?
I run their aluminum body EWP150 with controller for my 1.8t conversion. Honestly it's way to much pump for the engine. It stays in it's purge cycle pretty much all the time. The only issue I've had is it works too good :) I have a hard time getting the engine up to temp. I'm currently blocking off half the radiator and that seems to work OK. But it's also winter..
I'm going to build in a thermostat and heater bypass, which should solve my issue.
Gr8 vid.
Your right out the pump .there's always a cheeper way just got to find it.
I used a 130psi max water pump £19:00 . And used it for a M&w kit with a 1st solenoid to the spray then I just used a cheque one-way valve worked fine. Love the vids👍
I'm holding on to this video. I think I may need this for my build. Thanks!
Built Not Bought
Sub'd, LOVE tech talk like this.
Thanks! Lots more technical videos planned. If there is anything you like specifically I'd love to hear it! Always looking for ideas!
First time, subscribed. I now can start on my air to water setup
What about two small heat exchangers in series?
Limited space as usual.
I might try this and use some old computer rads I have lying around!
Great video, I’m contemplating adding an air to water intercooler potentially in addition to my air to air. However I am hoping to make around 800 hp so I’m probably gonna need some thing that flows well
A2W is pretty efficient, you just need a large enough IC. Running an A2A in addition to A2W would be interesting to see!
@@budgetoutlaws9978 yea, so my car is fine in colder temps and regular driving, but on long pulls like drag racing the iats climb rapidly. Maybe if I can have it to turn the pump on when I’m gonna race to keep it cool, instead of having it run all the time. I could mount a small a2w right after my a2a
I think that's a solid idea. You could also put a large ice box to plumb cold water through it for drag passes.
Just make sure you have that radiator (if you use one with the setup) away from raidant heat like the engine radiator. It needs clean air to work properly.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 id mount my tank in the rear, and the heat exchanger there with a puller fan maybe.
@@LowBoostFilms , did you make that double IC system ? I was thinking about same thing.
Thanks for the info. I'm looking at a2w for my mrs turbo project the motorcycle radiator is a good idea.
The fan idea is a bit tricky as I'm not to good with wiring stuff in the car lol. Cheers
I’m building hidden turbo setup your video helped me out thank you 🙏
Just subscribed, thanks for the info 👍🏻
We're planning a Mercedes turbodiesel swap and they're known for running hot so it'd make sense to run an a/w setup and leave more space for the engine radiator up front.
I was always put off the idea of an a/w setup on a diesel turbo engine under load a lot of the time as I thought the coolant water would get hot quickly and stay hot constantly.
Is this generally the case if you're on boost a lot of the time and can it be remedied with a big heat exchanger and radiator setup?
Thanks a lot 🍻
With constant load/head like a Diesel then its best to run a large heat exchanger. Sounds like you have a fun project ahead!!
@@budgetoutlaws9978 Thanks! Yeah we're putting a Mercedes OM606 into a 1986 Land Rover 110 aiming for about 400hp and heat's going to be a big problem
I'm so glad you asked that... Putting a 97 powerstroke in a 46 ford and was hoping to use the original 4 hole radiator to pipe the air through two.
What about for something that can support 1000HP?
Cool video cheap chooses they would work need a lot of modding that sensor is not treaded but u can convert it to a there by destroying an old sensor and using the probe in the housing with a bit of thermal paste and some glue to in case everything some epoxy resin if possible or something similar but water to air is actually cheaper or maybe not but simpler and not so many bends and pipes makes the engine bay look cleaner also it doesn’t heat soak
So-called air to water intercoolers only have two advantages and that is size and placement. They are much smaller than a traditional intercooler and are easier to place in a tight engine bay. The negative is they are less efficient and suffer heat soak in traffic. They are great in boats that have a constant supply of cold water or drag racing where you have a water tank full of ice. In a road car they are still an air to air intercooler, water is just a carrier of heat from one heat exchanger to another. The problem with this is as the water heats up (especially in traffic when there is low air movement to cool it) it becomes less efficient and takes a long time to cool back down.
The manufacturers that use this system generally use it on supercharged cars because it can be fitted in the inlet manifold under the supercharger saving space. They also have thermostatically controlled fans to help with heat soak when the water gets too hot. Some even utilise the air conditioning to keep the water temp down.
Thats why you add an additional radiator core to deal with that.
Sorry bro, the pump matters. It's flow and head height. Get a Jabsco low pressure cyclone and never look back.
Just wondering why you wouldn’t just plumb the hot end into the side of the tank and pull from the bottom. Do you need that small line for some reason?
I plan on using a small heat exchanger and a ice box on my Willy’s build
The reason you dont put the hot side to the side of the tank is so you dont have to push all the hot water way high. Im sure doing it the way your describing will work (And that might even be preferable for a ice box system, so long as the ice box is above the radiator and IC), in fact its how the old radiator systems worked, but this way allows for most of the water to stay at or level with the enclosed system and just have a small portion of the fluid that has to make its way higher up in the system.
Also I had the room for the extra hoses and routed my engine cooling system the same way so I wanted to be consistent.
Just remember, the highest point in the system needs to be the fill.
Learning how to design my A2W system for my MR2, and realizing that it's exactly like water cooling my computer.
What engine was that you showed?
I showed a few. Got a timestamp?
@@budgetoutlaws9978 the very first one with the nissan stickers
K M that’s a VG30 I’m pretty sure
Is it possible to just run cool water from the radiator to the heat exchanger?
The cool water from the radiator runs somewhere between 130-150F so unless you want your intake air temps to be 30-80deg higher than ambient temp, then the answer is no. You cannot just use the "cool" water from the Rad.
You need to have a dedicated radiator system for the air to water intercooler.
I was thinking of using an AC condenser as an heat exchanger for my car. Since my car doesn't have AC I can fit the condenser just like if I had AC.
100$ for the condenser + 160 for the biggest epman barrel intercooler.
Ac condenser is going to have really small pours and a small inlet/outlet. Not sure you’ll get the flow you want with that but you can always experiment. Additionally you want to have the heat exchanger away from other heat sources so you don’t get heat soak.
How much of a heat exchanger do you think I'll need for about 650hp? I'm only running about 8psi and I have tbi style EFI so I get charge cooling from the atomized fuel in the wet intake manifold. I've heard carburetors can lower IATs by 100°F. I was looking at an 18"x14"x2" radiator as a heat exchanger. I'm looking at running a very similar ebay air to water intercooler. That size of a heat exhanger would leave my options pretty slim for a transmission cooler. I just had a custom torque converter built and picked up the automatic trans yesterday so I want to take care of my new transmission too. If I could get by with something smaller on the heat exchanger side, my trans would be very appreciative.
It's a daily driver, 355cid. It has a centrifugal supercharger running at 8psi at 5500rpms. My cruising IATs are usually hovering around 100°F but can get much higher under load. The truck weighs 5600lbs.
Thanks man. This is my first foray into intercooling any of my personal stuff.
Lots of variables there, I say give it a shot with what you have planned. . The biggest thing you want to avoid with your setup is heat soak into the intercooler radiator. You need clean air no where near another radiator. Being a daily driver if you out it in front of your condenser or engine rad youll have heat soak idling around.
I put my radiator in my fender with a fan, so far it barely turns on the fan. So you could always expand with another radiator in the fender if you needed it.
Your build sounds like fun :)
@@budgetoutlaws9978 my fenderwells are pretty full with electronics and relays and my ignition system. I may have room to remote mount a radiator for the intercooler with a fan. it just looks like an ordinary old farm truck. It's not taken to the extreme that farm truck does it, but it's unsuspecting for sure. It's a 1990 Chevy Silverado 2500 4x4. There is a hellcat challenger in my hometown and every time I'm around him at a stoplight he thinks I'm challenging him to a race. I'm like "Calm down there fella. You'll know it when I'm getting on it." Lol.
I have single 4" open exhaust. It really thunders do i can see why the hellcat acts like he does. It looks like stock diesel pickup until you fire up the engine. It's a diesel exhaust system with no muffler. I built a 3"-into-4" y pipe from my headers to mate to a diesel exhaust system for a 6.5 turbodiesel for my body style of pickup.
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
How about rear fender wells? Or between the cab and the bed? Generally a lot more room in the rear than people suspect. That's where I have mine in my 914. The longer your lines, the more water that's in the system and the more efficient it will be. You also have under the bed you could use. Lots and lots of space there. Hell you could mount a full radiator under there.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 I have a 34 gallon gas tank on the driver's side and my exhaust system runs along the passenger's side. I think i could fit a decent sized heat exchanger behind the gas tank. The spare tire mounts between the framerails and above the axle. I'd rather not mount anything inside the wheelwells or outside of the framerails because it's a 4x4 truck and I do take it off road sometimes. I think just behind the fuel tank on the driver's side frame will work great with an auxiliary fan. Thanks for the suggestions. Where did you get your fan controller? I've used some adjustable fan relay controllers but I feel like they all start at like 160°F at the lowest. I know 8psi doesn't create that much heat, but I'd like it to stay as cool as possible.
I'll just throw a small reservoir in the engine bay so I can fill it. Thanks for the suggestions. Good luck with your projects.
Amazon is where I got it. Search 12v temp controller. There about 10 bucks. Glad I could help! Good luck!
Is there any good reason not to just implement it in my cooling system?
Yes. The cooling system runs at 180-220deg depending on the car. You want water to be as cold as possible, and as close to ambient as you can. Intake air temperature should be as low as possible for power and prevent detonation. I run about 100-120 deg intake air temps on a hot day under load for example.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 I see, thank you.
how would you say this set up runs , I always see these but never dived in to ask about them
IATs on a 80 deg Dyno day were 90 deg at 290whp and 16lbs. Back to back to back. A2W rocks! Way under stressing the system but seriously good numbers.
Can you run a air to air intercooler and a water to air intercooler on the same system
You could. But a properly sized IC either A2A or A2W will do the job itself will less pressure loss. And A2W by itself is generally more efficient but also a more complicated system. You can also super cool the water with ice and bring the charge air temp below ambient.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 brilliant! I have been trying to find out if I can for a while now so glad you replied thank you
And thanks for the suggestions on a better system
Russ Lumley
I am putting a 7.3 powerstroke in a 1986 f250. Any ideas for the water inter cooler setup
You've got enough room for a big air to air intercooler, but if you wanted to go air to water the same large ebay intercooler I mention in the video would work for you. Just be sure to put your hear exchanger in your fender or some place away from any heat source.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 it's a 1986 I don't have the room the 92s on up have
because when the can of 'dust cleaner' was compressed, it probably got just a little hotter than how cold it gets (relative to ambient // 'delta' ) whence you released the air. :)
Dope dope dope thank you for this info
How do I work out what size heat exchanger I need say for 300 who ?
It depends on how you use the car. Road course, daily, freeway high speed pulls, drag racing?
Street and track day or short rally’s hill climb
There are no set sizes for specific power. But the more long sustained use like a track day will require a larger heat exchanger. The typical 24 x8" heat exchanger on ebay should be more than enough for you but you might be able to get away with the tiny motorcycle heat exchanger like I run. The most critical thing is to make sure you run the heat exchanger no where near any ambient heat source. While in front of the radiator might seem like a good idea it's going to heat soak. I would stay 6" away from any heat source and you'll find it is much more efficient.
Good luck!
Hello how to i can know how i need big air to water cooler for my tractor his have 130hp and 7500ccm3?
So an intercooler is technically a reverse radiator so you have to determine how much heat your going to be making with your turbo setup. If you have a big turbo pushing a small amount of boost the answer is not much heat. If you have a small turbo and are pushing at or above the turbos efficiency range your going to want to go with an intercooler that's at least rated to the HP rating your looking to make.
Air to Water intercoolers are extremely efficient regarding spacing so you won't see the same kind of pressure loss as you would from an air to air IC. So it's a good idea to go much bigger than you need. For example I have a 700hp core intercooler but I won't ever likely see that much power. But I see IATs that are almost always at or just above ambient temp.
Hope this helps.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 i dont scary for intake temp i scary for this that my engine can't breath frow this intercooler understand? Lost power if is to inside is 1 bar and outside is 0.8 bar .. core must have be enough for 7500ccm this is little hp but his have much ccm3.. understand?
Sorry no, there must be a language barrier your using terms I don't recognize.
Taking a stab at it you have a 7500 cubic inch diesel tractor that makes 130hp, which for a diesel is irrelevant as torque is the number that counts there. Then your making 1 bar of boost at the plumbing and it's giving you .8 bar at the manifold.
Here's the issue, diesels are totally different in how they make power vs gasoline. You might be better off without an intercooler or with a small intercooler than with an extremely efficient one....
I would get in touch with a diesel tuner and ask them their opinion. Sorry I can't help much.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 ok tnx man :)
I'd use both air-to-air and air-to-water intercooler.
Where are the links
I knew I forgot something....
@@budgetoutlaws9978 if u don't mind plug that together!!
Added some links. There's a ton of options out there for everything. eBay has better pricing on some things so cross shop.
Возможно из интеркулера воздух- воздух, сделать теплообменник (вварив штуцеры - на вход и выход, воздушных патрубоков) ?
Yes you can do that, just be careful to make sure you account for area for water flow. You will need to cap the area where air typically flows through the intercooler and put an inlet and outlet fitting on it.
Note that an air to air is much less efficient so you don’t need as large as a intercooler with air to water. Figure 1/3 the side as a starting point.
Can someone tell me why some people call it a water to air Intercooler and others call it an air to water Intercooler? They seem to b the exact same.
Heat is transfer from the air to the water. Really its the same thing just different ways of saying it.
Good video dude
BOOM TUBES REVIEW PLEASE!!!!
No experience with those nascar mufflers, but who knows maybe in the future!
Awesome, I’m trying to do some kind of unique with a base model civic. I’d like to run a AMR (roots) supercharger, and I just recently discovered this option. I know that I’m gonna need a way to cool the air that it’s producing and most other designed to fit superchargers are cooled other ways. So I’d like to run an air to water cooler. This was a great video, would you be interested in showing your setup?
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Lots of v8 cars run roots blowers with a A2W, you can likely run a very small IC like I showed in the video.
My setup is just the large IC on the side of my engine bay. I did a poor job of showing it in the video.... I'll have to do a follow up on it in the future :)
That would be greatly appreciated! I’m not huge on power but individuality? Lol yeah I need that.
Very cool video, I like the low price version with the option of upgrading, and you added parts, cheers
constructive comment: Is it just me or do you need to fix the audio?
It sounds like the microphone has blown or something ...
Definitely hit peaking (max the mic input) with this unintentionally. I had the mic on boost and I'll try it without that next time. Still working on a decent microphone setup/lapel mic and haven't found anything I like. Also I was speaking towards a garage door so there was too much eco. I'll put a blanket behind the camera next video to absorb some eco. We're still learning!! I appreciate the constructive criticism!
You can put 730 herspers on a golf without an intercooler.
What does 730 herspers equate to in horsepower?
Good video but I found myself going insane because how slow you talked
You could play it at 1.25 speed ;)
I did this one off the cuff with a basic outline. I now know that I simply have to write it all out and read from the script.
@@budgetoutlaws9978 that's fair. I never think to change the speed I always just play as is and always forget to change the speed. I'm glad you didn't take offense. Shows me you are true ginger lol