You have a real gift for teaching. I learned so much watching this video. I don’t know what you do for a living, but you have a real gift for explaining things and a gift for knowing your audience. Thank you! Like Tom Petty said, “ Don’t bore us! Give us the chorus!”
Great video. I think you’re getting RMS and sensitivity of speaker mixed up. Sensitivity determines how loud the speaker is at a given voltage (volume) setting. RMS is how much it can handle. You can have speakers that can handle more power (RMS) AND are more sensitive, meaning it will play louder at the same volume setting.
Thanks for the sounds kind idea, somehow I never thought of it, it really made my car go from *early 2000s blown out boom box INTO concert quality fun*
Wow, this is the true power of TH-cam. Sir, thank you for this well-done and knowledgeable video. I just leased a 2020 Outback with base sound, and you're right, it sucks! But since it's a leased vehicle, I don't want to spend major $$, and besides, Subaru lease might not be happy with the modifications. But after watching a few of your vids, I think I'm going to upgrade the speakers only, to improve the sound quality, hopefully enough to make the next 36 months in my car bearable! Thanks again.
Resurrecting this to give more info as to why component systems are great if you aren't going with a separate bass system. Component systems produce much better bass response and are able to reach lower frequencies because the woofer cone on the low-mid speaker is one solid piece. With a co-axial speaker you have a hole in your woofer for the pole piece of the tweeter to go through. Even with the best baffle technology, this causes an airgap that causes the pressure to reduce in the chamber of your door. This is also why often times people will upgrade their factory speakers with co-axials and end up with no bass (also paired with reduced sensitivity, the stock speakers have very high sensitivity which allows them to move more and get loud at low volumes, but also causes distortion at high volume). If you can manage installing a component system they are pretty much superior all around, other than losing your high response from your door speakers. You can still get some great co-axial speakers though, just gotta find ones that have high sensitivity, provide the most travel and just the best pole baffle possible.
Really informative video, I’m looking into upgrading the sound system in my 21 wrx. You are definitely right, that the sound system that comes stock is very lack luster😅
Best vid on this subject so far. You're the only one who even mentions Ohms. Question: The door speaker is 4 Ohms and the tweeter is 6 Ohms. If they're wired in parallel they would present a 2.4 Ohm load to the radio which should be unsafe. I was considering upgrading the speakers first and then depending on the resulting sound, decide if I want to upgrade the head unit. Wondering if the factory head unit is designed for 2.4 Ohms. This would be unsafe for an aftermarket radio so maybe I would have to switch speakers again to separates that would present the required 4 Ohm load.
I just got the JL audio C1-650x and C1-400. I already have a kenwood double din and a kenwood 10” powered amp installed. Can’t wait to get them installed In my 2002 sti:)
thank you for this. i recently got a 2016 WRX and the sound system is just so bad compareed to my previous car. The first upgrade I'm doing is my sound system. I won't be installing it myself but it will help me when I'm shopping around at car audio shops.
@@Adam-hn2iw thanks for the advice. I think I'll do the upgrade in steps. starting with the head unit. I just remember hearing a noticeable decline in sound quality compared to my 2009! Ford Escape. That car actually had really good speakers and the bass was bumping.
@@Lawlerboyful Research the 'idoing' head units for the wrx. I bought and installed one myself a few months ago and I'm loving it. The sound is so much better and the features are awesome. Also pretty easy to install yourself so can save a good amount of money there.
yes, very helpful indeed. now i know which style speaker to install. i had an amp once. . . and speakers too. . i got robbed of it, because someone did not like me. they would have gotten away with the radio too, if they had the knowledge. all i am looking for is a good raido and very close to factory speakers, and i will be ok.
DUDE THANK YOU. That wiring diagram at 8:11 is something I've been SCOURING the internet for, for about a week now. Quick question though... on the rear speaker wires. Which is positive and negative?
This my 2nd time buying the OEM upgrade speakers for my WRX. Both times, all 4 speakers have been blown out on a stock head unit... If you like a lot of bass and prefer your music to be louder or drive alone most of time time, I do not recommend the factory upgrade.
Does the kicker speaker upgrade plus power pack sound good even at higher speeds? I feel like maybe I should just go with the alpine you got along with some sound deadening. I'm not demanding of the music but the stock system in the STI is awful. Trying to figure out the best way to get a premium system that is perfect for the car.
An important point to clarify... higher *capacity* speakers are not necessarily louder or better for a given system unless that system has higher wattage available. For a given wattage output from a head unit, the capacity of the speakers plays no part at all in how loud they will be. That's the speaker's efficiency, or 'sensitivity' and it is completely independent of its wattage capacity. If you want the highest volume for a given amplifier, look for a speaker with a sensitivity ration of 90 or 93 (db/w). Less efficient speakers will be rated at 80 or so and will return much less volume per amplifier watt. Choose speakers with enough power handling capacity (wattage rating) to exceed what your amplifier can produce, but once you have met that threshold, higher capacity speakers do nothing else for you. Remember: wattage of an amplifier is 'what it can produce' while wattage of a speaker is 'what it can handle' and has no bearing on how much sound it can produce per watt of input.
Great video! Just a quick question.... can I easily swap my base model spikers to the Harmon Kardon speakers from a premium WRX? And would that make a considerable upgrade?
Love the videos and the descriptions you give! I was wondering if you knew or had any information for those who do have Harmon Kardon in there vehicles. Currently have STI 2016 that has it and wanted to do an upgrade. Thank You!
Which is better overall if you want luxury bass, clarity, and sound inside the car only not outside the car Alpine R, GTO 629, Focal, or Infinity Kappa or another brand??
Hello, i have installed an aftermarket pioneer stereo (deh- s320bt) in my car which says "output power: 50 (*4) watts" . Until how many watts RMS speakers can i buy? Cause i dont know if this "50" is watt RMS. For example if i place 80 Watt RMS speakers in my car, will the stereo be burnt? I have found some speakers (Jbl stage2 604c) which are 45 watt RMS and 270 watt max power . Will they fit my car?
Would you touch up on OEM car manufacturers speaker wires are not intended to be used on amplified speaker signals over 50 watts? The installed gauge of the wire is too small for higher power.
I thought you could use the factory wiring for your woofer and factory tweeter in the dash? I’m confused now because I saw another installer do this?? If your not using an amp.
Me recomiendas ese sistema tengo un subaru impreza con OEM foster y pienso cambiar por unos de harman kardon de subaru outback, te agradecería la información, me gustaría algo que suene fuere y bien
Would the Alpine speakers still be better sound quality with the stock 19 head unit than the OEM speakers, even though they wont get as loud? Thanks for your videos man!
Hi, my Toyota has 6.5 speakers AND separate tweeters in the front doors plus 6x9's in the rear deck, ALL original since 1996! and sounds good still today, however want to upgrade the 6.5's in the front doors, also my car does have a stock amplifier from the factory, so my question is what speakers would work/sound better than the OE ALMOST 25 year old ones!!... And please don't laugh too much ok!....your advice on the better /best one will be greatly appreciated
Nice video. I just bought a 2018 Hatch and will be installing (via a shop) my Boston Acoustic 6.5LF pros up front and Rally coax in the back and matching pro 12LF subs. This will be the 3rd car these have been transplanted into. Now I need to decide if I go digital or stay old-school AB amps. RF DSM series, Soundstream Reference or Hifonic Series VIII... Or digital JL or Phoenix Gold..
I have an android car stereo that’s touch screen, and had CarPlay. My problem is I installed the kicker speaker in this video. Now my CarPlay stereo screen keeps on turning off and going black as I drive. The music keeps playing but the screen goes back and forth. How can I fix that ?
I have 2019 crysler Pacifica touring L. I guess it has 6x9 on front and back doors and May be two tweeters on dashboard. I wanted to replace with Bose but they are way expensive. Any recommendations on good speakers less than 200$ May be . Thx
I got the kickers and I have a sub in the trunk. The quality is decent but the OEM head unit is limiting my volume. I'm going to need to upgrade soon. Thanks for the video. I went with the kicker just because it was plug and play.
@@akqjtn I have an inline amp from a previous vehicle I just need to decide on a head unit. I'm hesitant to do it myself because I want to retain my xm radio. If you have a video covering all that I will definitely check it out.
They brother. Can you give me some tips. I have a 2017 wrx with a after marker Kenwood stereo where I can adjust frequency etc. I upgraded the speakers with alpine Alpine R-S65C.2 comp for the front and the Alpine R-S65 coax for the rear. What frequency should I be running on them? They sound really boomie at 60hz. I don't have any amplifier install. please give me some suggestions I don't want to damage my new speaker as well anything on the wires system. THANKS
another idea given the wiring you described of the tweeters, would be to replace factory tweeters with 8ohm upgrades (common home tweeter impedance, good options at a place like partsexpress), and then use 2ohm drivers in the doors. this will give you the same 4 ohm matching load, while quieting down the awkwardly placed dash tweeters and greatly improving the sound quality of the coaxials by giving them a fair boost in power. this setup would likely provide more midbass without the sacrifice of any high-end given the built-in tweeters to the coaxials will also be receiving more power.
they are wired in parallel not series, resistance in parallel is 1/((1/r1) + (1/r2)) with the ohms given in the video that comes out to 2.4 ohm at head. a 8/2 set up makes 1.6 ohm at head. best you could really do is swap your 4 and 6 selection
@@stephenshanks i've learned a lot in the past couple years and you are correct. i've learned even more about audio and i am beyond incorrect factually, but the advice i gave was bad. you're gonna want to match original impedance and focus more on sensitivity/efficiency. some auto tweeters have stupidly high sensitivity. i would match brand and impedance and find a woofer/tweeter combo that fits the stock locations and will run well on low power (realistically each driver will receive around 5 watts, maybe a hair more). i would still lean towards home audio drivers like those found on parts express, just make sure you get a woofer with a treated/poly/alum cone since it will be used in a vehicle. one last thing...don't be afraid of paper cone drivers. they are some of the best sounding in the world and often sound better in low power applications. you'll never get good sound from an aluminum cone midbass driver with such little power. i would also avoid metal domed tweeters as they are generally harsh, and avoid coaxials altogether.
Damn my 17 wrx had the harmon kardon system 😪 they hit me and destroyed it and now i got a 18 wrx and it has a base sound system. After doing research it sounds complicated I don’t know where to start 😭😭
I have a question.. l am putting a set of Kicker co ax's in my Subaru Outback wagon.. the car has tweeters in the pillars.. can l just install the co axes in the doors or do l have to disconnect the tweeters on the pillars to run the new CO's?? What should l do???
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe with the 600 watt system from the factory, not aftermarket. I need to replace my front door speakers which are woofers, part of the component system. a couple of questions, if I can't fine a single woofer I'd like to buy, and I buy a component set which will include the tweeters and woofers, do I need to use those tweeters also or can I just use the woofer and keep the tweeters in my drawer? and secondly can I still use the same wires just to hook up the woofer? Thanks for the info. And if anyone knows the ohms that would be a great help.
@@akqjtn quick question! so i installed some aftermarket kickers but only in the front . will i only notice a significant difference if i install all 4 ?
Good info, but you missed an important aspect of the speakers. Their sensitivity! It's really important because a 3db higher sensitivity speaker will require half the power to play same level. And if you're not amping, you need this advantage from stick head unit.
The problem with using sensitivity is there are no regulations around it. Each manufacture has their own way of measuring it and you have to factor in frequency. It might be 90dB @ 1000 ohm but it might might be 30dB @200 ohm.
Yes this is true, but it is still an important aspect of the speakers. There is plenty of areas a manufacturer can bias a specification. Reputable manufacturers should show full specs.
May as well upgrade from not using deck power to aftermarket amplifier.. like a 4channel for the door speakers. Will be much more clear sounding with better power supply than deck power. Then next sub set up with its own amp. Many people add a sub 1st then the deck power isnt enough.. need amp power for the doors
@@akqjtn sounds really good! I've been working on a full system in my 02 bugeye wagon. I've had it for almost 1yr now. It had a lesser quality system someone did before, working mostly lol, but not up to par with what I want. So mostly a complete overhaul. Actually going to use the deck still at least for a bit.
It had deck power going to door speakers & an older clarion amp, maybe 400-500w not D class to a cracked cone MTX 5500 12" in sealed box. Funny it actually sounded ok. Well if you turned it up full volume, the door speakers didn't sound good or clear. Now putting 6.5 separates, mid grade, Infiniti reference in fronts, 5.25 same separates in rears. Kicker kxa400.4 to door speakers, kxa1200.1 to 12" sub. Hassle is getting the new wiring into the doors, doing slight modifications to doors & panels. Sound deadening once there for access.... but will be worth it!
Nice video. Could you please advice when do I need an Amp with a Coaxial speaker ? Is the Power from the OEM head unit not sufficient to get best output firm these speakers
And the factory set up in that car is basically a component setup because the mid that delivers the voice and a little bit of tweeter sound as a. Filter and then it has a sub which is your sixth inch speaker and the lower door for bass 🤔
A speaker with a higher power rating doesn't give you more power. The power comes from the head unit, and it will be the same for every speaker you put in, if the impedance is the same. The head unit doesn't really know the speakers are different. What you are getting with higher quality speakers, is higher efficiency, more speaker movement for the same output power. Any quality speaker that is rated to handle the output power of the head unit will work just fine. The efficiency and quality of sound will vary based on the specifics of the speaker you choose.
I installed the same speakers (Alpine Type R, Components in the front, but Coaxial in the rear) and also used the same Lc7i and amp. I however didn't do the Secondskin stuff. I've lost almost all of my mid-bass once i installed the Type R's. Our stock Forester XT audio setup has MUCHHHH better/fuller mid-bass and it's super frustrating. I'm using the stock head unit (Hence the line out converter) and even if I try the EQ tuning to the 'Bass' EQ option, the speakers just get all muddy and they sound terrible. Wanted to see if you had any suggestions or thoughts. The car is a 2016 STI. Might be a long shot as it doesn't look like you respond to comments often, but i'm kind of lost on how i can improve things.
Hello, I do respond quite a bit. When I converted my account to a brand account I lost probably thousands of comments. Anyhow, first tip I'll give you is to ensure you set your tweeters to their lowest setting. Then, and this is the most important part, make sure you tune the gains of both the LC7i and the amp. I have a step by step, detailed video on this th-cam.com/video/B5UYKw9j33Q/w-d-xo.html that should help you out quite a bit. Sounds like you have the exact setup I used to have and my mids were alive and well. Try setting your gains and let me know how it works out. Take care.
@@akqjtn Oh I didn't mean it in a rude way. I currently have the tweeters on the middle setting so I'll adjust those first to begin with. I've tried tuning it using the light that comes on to show distortion, but it never came on so i left the Lc7i knobs to 3/4. On the Amp, I just have the frequency knobs set "-" (F/R) in that orientation as you don't get really a 'detailed' adjustment out of the amp. Also on the Amp, i have the main gain knob adjusted all the way down because if I turn it up a bit, I'll get rpm feedback through the speakers. Only when the car is turned on as well. I'll try to dial in the knobs on the Lc7i and go from there, but don't think that'll work for some reason. We ran our own speaker wiring and i remember you saying there's some setup needed if you do components, but not sure.
@@akqjtn I also just leave it on the 'Impact' EQ the stock HU offers. Anything else and i swear it's like all i have in the car is tweeters lol. It gets so loud and has nothing other than highs.
Something you always need to consider is that tweeters only need to have a 3rd of the power of the bass speaker because the bass consumes 2 3rds of the whole power
That is definitely true, but most wattage ratings of tweeters already factor in that unequal power division. Often the "90 watt" tweeter can only handle, say, 30 watts themselves, but they are assumed to be part of a system that handles 90 watts overall. So don't base your buying decisions of this 2/3 - 1/3 split because the marketing departments already took that into account.
Man I never comment on anything but this video honestly helped clear up a lot of my questions. Insanely helpful.
Glad it was useful, thanks for watching!
You have a real gift for teaching. I learned so much watching this video. I don’t know what you do for a living, but you have a real gift for explaining things and a gift for knowing your audience. Thank you! Like Tom Petty said, “ Don’t bore us! Give us the chorus!”
You're so thorough and clear. Keep it up, man
Great video. I think you’re getting RMS and sensitivity of speaker mixed up. Sensitivity determines how loud the speaker is at a given voltage (volume) setting. RMS is how much it can handle. You can have speakers that can handle more power (RMS) AND are more sensitive, meaning it will play louder at the same volume setting.
Thanks for the sounds kind idea, somehow I never thought of it, it really made my car go from *early 2000s blown out boom box INTO concert quality fun*
Wow, this is the true power of TH-cam. Sir, thank you for this well-done and knowledgeable video. I just leased a 2020 Outback with base sound, and you're right, it sucks! But since it's a leased vehicle, I don't want to spend major $$, and besides, Subaru lease might not be happy with the modifications. But after watching a few of your vids, I think I'm going to upgrade the speakers only, to improve the sound quality, hopefully enough to make the next 36 months in my car bearable! Thanks again.
You can always remove them when you turn in the Outback; the remove/installation is very easy.
@@logan5326 yep as long as you buy speaker brackets and plug and play harness
I thought some of these comments were bots. And then I got all the way through the video was like damn. This guy is the master of articulation.
Great video bro and straight to the point and in a very clearly manner, not like others! Thanks for uploading and sharing with us. Cheers from NYC.
Thanks for this video, very informative and gave me all the information I needed in making my decision on what route to go with the sound system!
Resurrecting this to give more info as to why component systems are great if you aren't going with a separate bass system. Component systems produce much better bass response and are able to reach lower frequencies because the woofer cone on the low-mid speaker is one solid piece. With a co-axial speaker you have a hole in your woofer for the pole piece of the tweeter to go through. Even with the best baffle technology, this causes an airgap that causes the pressure to reduce in the chamber of your door. This is also why often times people will upgrade their factory speakers with co-axials and end up with no bass (also paired with reduced sensitivity, the stock speakers have very high sensitivity which allows them to move more and get loud at low volumes, but also causes distortion at high volume).
If you can manage installing a component system they are pretty much superior all around, other than losing your high response from your door speakers. You can still get some great co-axial speakers though, just gotta find ones that have high sensitivity, provide the most travel and just the best pole baffle possible.
Really informative video, I’m looking into upgrading the sound system in my 21 wrx. You are definitely right, that the sound system that comes stock is very lack luster😅
Best vid on this subject so far. You're the only one who even mentions Ohms. Question: The door speaker is 4 Ohms and the tweeter is 6 Ohms. If they're wired in parallel they would present a 2.4 Ohm load to the radio which should be unsafe. I was considering upgrading the speakers first and then depending on the resulting sound, decide if I want to upgrade the head unit. Wondering if the factory head unit is designed for 2.4 Ohms. This would be unsafe for an aftermarket radio so maybe I would have to switch speakers again to separates that would present the required 4 Ohm load.
I just got the JL audio C1-650x and C1-400. I already have a kenwood double din and a kenwood 10” powered amp installed. Can’t wait to get them installed In my 2002 sti:)
Thanks for the video. I have a 2018 wrx with the hardon kardon system. I like the system, but can i make improvements?
Thanks Bro.
I learnt more from u than a dozen out there.
Thank you for the concise information and explanation on matching ohms and not just chase rms power
What are the best aftermarket sounds speakers for the wrx 15+ any recommendations plus also a head unit.. I’m really tired of the OEM
thank you for this. i recently got a 2016 WRX and the sound system is just so bad compareed to my previous car. The first upgrade I'm doing is my sound system. I won't be installing it myself but it will help me when I'm shopping around at car audio shops.
Upgrade the head unit first. The stock speakers are actually pretty good with the extra power going to them.
@@Adam-hn2iw thanks for the advice. I think I'll do the upgrade in steps. starting with the head unit.
I just remember hearing a noticeable decline in sound quality compared to my 2009! Ford Escape. That car actually had really good speakers and the bass was bumping.
@@Lawlerboyful Research the 'idoing' head units for the wrx. I bought and installed one myself a few months ago and I'm loving it. The sound is so much better and the features are awesome. Also pretty easy to install yourself so can save a good amount of money there.
I was impressed with your thorough explanation!
yes, very helpful indeed.
now i know which style speaker to install.
i had an amp once. . . and speakers too. .
i got robbed of it,
because someone did not like me.
they would have gotten away with the radio too, if they had the knowledge.
all i am looking for is a good raido and very close to factory speakers, and i will be ok.
DUDE THANK YOU. That wiring diagram at 8:11 is something I've been SCOURING the internet for, for about a week now. Quick question though... on the rear speaker wires. Which is positive and negative?
This my 2nd time buying the OEM upgrade speakers for my WRX. Both times, all 4 speakers have been blown out on a stock head unit... If you like a lot of bass and prefer your music to be louder or drive alone most of time time, I do not recommend the factory upgrade.
how much wattage have you been able to get out of the stock head? 100 w rms per? 300?
you're asking too much from them get a higher power speaker and amp
Very good content throughout this series. Thank you.
What about an upgrade for the Harman system? Would love to see some recommendations
Mee too
Does the kicker speaker upgrade plus power pack sound good even at higher speeds? I feel like maybe I should just go with the alpine you got along with some sound deadening. I'm not demanding of the music but the stock system in the STI is awful. Trying to figure out the best way to get a premium system that is perfect for the car.
An important point to clarify... higher *capacity* speakers are not necessarily louder or better for a given system unless that system has higher wattage available.
For a given wattage output from a head unit, the capacity of the speakers plays no part at all in how loud they will be. That's the speaker's efficiency, or 'sensitivity' and it is completely independent of its wattage capacity.
If you want the highest volume for a given amplifier, look for a speaker with a sensitivity ration of 90 or 93 (db/w). Less efficient speakers will be rated at 80 or so and will return much less volume per amplifier watt.
Choose speakers with enough power handling capacity (wattage rating) to exceed what your amplifier can produce, but once you have met that threshold, higher capacity speakers do nothing else for you. Remember: wattage of an amplifier is 'what it can produce' while wattage of a speaker is 'what it can handle' and has no bearing on how much sound it can produce per watt of input.
Can the factory tweeters just be unplug if they can't handle the power and the aftermarket already has a built in tweeters?
I’m confused… if the standard are a factory woofer and separate tweeter…. Isn’t that a component set up?
Great series, thank you!
Harman Kardon owner here. How does this compare to aftermarket speakers/subs? Just curious how this stacks up to an expensive aftermarket option
This was very helpful and informative. Thanks for the detail.
Great video! Just a quick question.... can I easily swap my base model spikers to the Harmon Kardon speakers from a premium WRX? And would that make a considerable upgrade?
Love the videos and the descriptions you give! I was wondering if you knew or had any information for those who do have Harmon Kardon in there vehicles. Currently have STI 2016 that has it and wanted to do an upgrade. Thank You!
Which is better overall if you want luxury bass, clarity, and sound inside the car only not outside the car Alpine R, GTO 629, Focal, or Infinity Kappa or another brand??
What generation are these exact speakers for?
Hello, i have installed an aftermarket pioneer stereo (deh- s320bt) in my car which says "output power: 50 (*4) watts" . Until how many watts RMS speakers can i buy? Cause i dont know if this "50" is watt RMS. For example if i place 80 Watt RMS speakers in my car, will the stereo be burnt?
I have found some speakers (Jbl stage2 604c) which are 45 watt RMS and 270 watt max power . Will they fit my car?
Honestly great information, really appreciate it.
Would you touch up on OEM car manufacturers speaker wires are not intended to be used on amplified speaker signals over 50 watts? The installed gauge of the wire is too small for higher power.
Do you have any videos on upgrading the HK speakers?
Will this work with a 2023 forester too ?
That OEM kicker is what blew in my impreza idk what to do from here.
I thought you could use the factory wiring for your woofer and factory tweeter in the dash? I’m confused now because I saw another installer do this?? If your not using an amp.
Think this will fit in a 2013 Subaru WRX hatchback?
I like the Harmon Kardon's.....nice system
Me recomiendas ese sistema tengo un subaru impreza con OEM foster y pienso cambiar por unos de harman kardon de subaru outback, te agradecería la información, me gustaría algo que suene fuere y bien
Would the Alpine speakers still be better sound quality with the stock 19 head unit than the OEM speakers, even though they wont get as loud? Thanks for your videos man!
@@akqjtn Any in-line amps you'd recommend?
@@akqjtn thank you i appreciate it!
Thanks man well explained
Hi, my Toyota has 6.5 speakers AND separate tweeters in the front doors plus 6x9's in the rear deck, ALL original since 1996! and sounds good still today, however want to upgrade the 6.5's in the front doors, also my car does have a stock amplifier from the factory, so my question is what speakers would work/sound better than the OE ALMOST 25 year old ones!!... And please don't laugh too much ok!....your advice on the better /best one will be greatly appreciated
So i do not need to add a bass blocker to that kicker you've shown? I have that one and it throws hard restoration bass.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to share these God bless
The kicker upgrade package what speakers do they use? I am looking to see how much they are if I buy them individually.
Nice video. I just bought a 2018 Hatch and will be installing (via a shop) my Boston Acoustic 6.5LF pros up front and Rally coax in the back and matching pro 12LF subs. This will be the 3rd car these have been transplanted into.
Now I need to decide if I go digital or stay old-school AB amps. RF DSM series, Soundstream Reference or Hifonic Series VIII... Or digital JL or Phoenix Gold..
Are the rear speakers 6 1/2 as well?
Do a similar video for the ascent !! :D
What are the oem kicker tweeter rms rating? Subaru parts says 150? But i cant see that being true
I have a 2021 Tacoma with tweeters up in the dash. Why would I want to put a speaker with tweeters in the front doors?
Will 6.75” speakers fit?? Crutchfield says it does but not sure after seeing your install
Can you delete your factory tweeters if you are running a new 2way speaker with their own tweeters?
So the after market oem is good and the apline is better but do they work with the stock radio
What you did with the OEM Kikers after the replacement
Are the alpine type S coaxials also a good upgrade to the kicker?
I have an android car stereo that’s touch screen, and had CarPlay. My problem is I installed the kicker speaker in this video. Now my CarPlay stereo screen keeps on turning off and going black as I drive. The music keeps playing but the screen goes back and forth. How can I fix that ?
a question? How do I know if my device is Harman Kardon?
I have 2019 crysler Pacifica touring L. I guess it has 6x9 on front and back doors and May be two tweeters on dashboard. I wanted to replace with Bose but they are way expensive. Any recommendations on good speakers less than 200$ May be . Thx
Did the alpine Fit the hem bracket?
I got the kickers and I have a sub in the trunk. The quality is decent but the OEM head unit is limiting my volume. I'm going to need to upgrade soon. Thanks for the video. I went with the kicker just because it was plug and play.
@@akqjtn I have an inline amp from a previous vehicle I just need to decide on a head unit. I'm hesitant to do it myself because I want to retain my xm radio. If you have a video covering all that I will definitely check it out.
They brother. Can you give me some tips. I have a 2017 wrx with a after marker Kenwood stereo where I can adjust frequency etc. I upgraded the speakers with alpine Alpine R-S65C.2 comp for the front and the Alpine R-S65 coax for the rear. What frequency should I be running on them? They sound really boomie at 60hz. I don't have any amplifier install. please give me some suggestions I don't want to damage my new speaker as well anything on the wires system. THANKS
another idea given the wiring you described of the tweeters, would be to replace factory tweeters with 8ohm upgrades (common home tweeter impedance, good options at a place like partsexpress), and then use 2ohm drivers in the doors. this will give you the same 4 ohm matching load, while quieting down the awkwardly placed dash tweeters and greatly improving the sound quality of the coaxials by giving them a fair boost in power. this setup would likely provide more midbass without the sacrifice of any high-end given the built-in tweeters to the coaxials will also be receiving more power.
they are wired in parallel not series, resistance in parallel is 1/((1/r1) + (1/r2)) with the ohms given in the video that comes out to 2.4 ohm at head. a 8/2 set up makes 1.6 ohm at head. best you could really do is swap your 4 and 6 selection
@@stephenshanks i've learned a lot in the past couple years and you are correct. i've learned even more about audio and i am beyond incorrect factually, but the advice i gave was bad. you're gonna want to match original impedance and focus more on sensitivity/efficiency. some auto tweeters have stupidly high sensitivity. i would match brand and impedance and find a woofer/tweeter combo that fits the stock locations and will run well on low power (realistically each driver will receive around 5 watts, maybe a hair more). i would still lean towards home audio drivers like those found on parts express, just make sure you get a woofer with a treated/poly/alum cone since it will be used in a vehicle. one last thing...don't be afraid of paper cone drivers. they are some of the best sounding in the world and often sound better in low power applications. you'll never get good sound from an aluminum cone midbass driver with such little power. i would also avoid metal domed tweeters as they are generally harsh, and avoid coaxials altogether.
Damn my 17 wrx had the harmon kardon system 😪 they hit me and destroyed it and now i got a 18 wrx and it has a base sound system. After doing research it sounds complicated I don’t know where to start 😭😭
Excellent video. Appreciate it.
are these speakers the same size in the 2022 wrx base? or are they 6x9s? dont want to remove panel yet to find out
was the mid bass still good before the sound skins, for the kicker upgrade?
I have a question.. l am putting a set of Kicker co ax's in my Subaru Outback wagon.. the car has tweeters in the pillars.. can l just install the co axes in the doors or do l have to disconnect the tweeters on the pillars to run the new CO's?? What should l do???
Do we go with component or coaxial on the front and back door speakers? Stock speaker in the fronts seemed to be mostly bass
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe with the 600 watt system from the factory, not aftermarket. I need to replace my front door speakers which are woofers, part of the component system. a couple of questions, if I can't fine a single woofer I'd like to buy, and I buy a component set which will include the tweeters and woofers, do I need to use those tweeters also or can I just use the woofer and keep the tweeters in my drawer? and secondly can I still use the same wires just to hook up the woofer? Thanks for the info. And if anyone knows the ohms that would be a great help.
I mean great video and good info but no stock headunit can push 100 rms on 4 speakers that I know of
How would you upgrade the Harmon Kardon speakers? I feel like the head unit has something to do with it right?
Hey great video! What do you think about Hertz Uno K165 2-component speakers?
great video king 🙏🏾
Thanks bud!
@@akqjtn quick question! so i installed some aftermarket kickers but only in the front . will i only notice a significant difference if i install all 4 ?
Any idea if these will work in a 04 Impreza?
Hello. Just a question. Does the 2012 wrx have 6.5 or 6x9 speakers ? Because I want to buy new speakers but not sure which ones. Thank you
Good info, but you missed an important aspect of the speakers. Their sensitivity! It's really important because a 3db higher sensitivity speaker will require half the power to play same level. And if you're not amping, you need this advantage from stick head unit.
The problem with using sensitivity is there are no regulations around it. Each manufacture has their own way of measuring it and you have to factor in frequency. It might be 90dB @ 1000 ohm but it might might be 30dB @200 ohm.
Yes this is true, but it is still an important aspect of the speakers. There is plenty of areas a manufacturer can bias a specification. Reputable manufacturers should show full specs.
Is there an issue with window interference for larger depth speakers? In the market for a 2018 sti and just trying to gather information.
Would these work with a 04 wrx wagon????
Does it fits subaru crosstrek xv 2013-2015 ??? I want to upgrade speakers because thay are too.bad qoality
What about for 19 sti will it still be compatible
May as well upgrade from not using deck power to aftermarket amplifier.. like a 4channel for the door speakers. Will be much more clear sounding with better power supply than deck power.
Then next sub set up with its own amp.
Many people add a sub 1st then the deck power isnt enough.. need amp power for the doors
@@akqjtn sounds really good! I've been working on a full system in my 02 bugeye wagon. I've had it for almost 1yr now. It had a lesser quality system someone did before, working mostly lol, but not up to par with what I want. So mostly a complete overhaul. Actually going to use the deck still at least for a bit.
It had deck power going to door speakers & an older clarion amp, maybe 400-500w not D class to a cracked cone MTX 5500 12" in sealed box. Funny it actually sounded ok. Well if you turned it up full volume, the door speakers didn't sound good or clear.
Now putting 6.5 separates, mid grade, Infiniti reference in fronts, 5.25 same separates in rears. Kicker kxa400.4 to door speakers, kxa1200.1 to 12" sub.
Hassle is getting the new wiring into the doors, doing slight modifications to doors & panels. Sound deadening once there for access.... but will be worth it!
The alpine R serie work in a subaru 2008 outback
Nice video. Could you please advice when do I need an Amp with a Coaxial speaker ? Is the Power from the OEM head unit not sufficient to get best output firm these speakers
A good amp always sounds better. Brownie point points if you get an esp
And the factory set up in that car is basically a component setup because the mid that delivers the voice and a little bit of tweeter sound as a. Filter and then it has a sub which is your sixth inch speaker and the lower door for bass 🤔
Trust me bro the only people who think the size of the magnet doesn't just matter... have small magnets
What a great video, explained everything I did wrong and how to fix it with different options 👌🏼
I was looking at your links for the OEM Speakers and had a question. Is that the price just for one speaker or all of them included?
Boost & Shutter ok cool and the tweeter kit includes 2c
2*?
@@rudythetype yes
That's a great video. Thanks.
A speaker with a higher power rating doesn't give you more power. The power comes from the head unit, and it will be the same for every speaker you put in, if the impedance is the same. The head unit doesn't really know the speakers are different.
What you are getting with higher quality speakers, is higher efficiency, more speaker movement for the same output power. Any quality speaker that is rated to handle the output power of the head unit will work just fine. The efficiency and quality of sound will vary based on the specifics of the speaker you choose.
I installed the same speakers (Alpine Type R, Components in the front, but Coaxial in the rear) and also used the same Lc7i and amp. I however didn't do the Secondskin stuff.
I've lost almost all of my mid-bass once i installed the Type R's. Our stock Forester XT audio setup has MUCHHHH better/fuller mid-bass and it's super frustrating.
I'm using the stock head unit (Hence the line out converter) and even if I try the EQ tuning to the 'Bass' EQ option, the speakers just get all muddy and they sound terrible.
Wanted to see if you had any suggestions or thoughts. The car is a 2016 STI. Might be a long shot as it doesn't look like you respond to comments often, but i'm kind of lost on how i can improve things.
Hello, I do respond quite a bit. When I converted my account to a brand account I lost probably thousands of comments. Anyhow, first tip I'll give you is to ensure you set your tweeters to their lowest setting. Then, and this is the most important part, make sure you tune the gains of both the LC7i and the amp. I have a step by step, detailed video on this th-cam.com/video/B5UYKw9j33Q/w-d-xo.html that should help you out quite a bit. Sounds like you have the exact setup I used to have and my mids were alive and well. Try setting your gains and let me know how it works out. Take care.
@@akqjtn Oh I didn't mean it in a rude way.
I currently have the tweeters on the middle setting so I'll adjust those first to begin with.
I've tried tuning it using the light that comes on to show distortion, but it never came on so i left the Lc7i knobs to 3/4.
On the Amp, I just have the frequency knobs set "-" (F/R) in that orientation as you don't get really a 'detailed' adjustment out of the amp.
Also on the Amp, i have the main gain knob adjusted all the way down because if I turn it up a bit, I'll get rpm feedback through the speakers. Only when the car is turned on as well.
I'll try to dial in the knobs on the Lc7i and go from there, but don't think that'll work for some reason.
We ran our own speaker wiring and i remember you saying there's some setup needed if you do components, but not sure.
@@akqjtn I also just leave it on the 'Impact' EQ the stock HU offers. Anything else and i swear it's like all i have in the car is tweeters lol. It gets so loud and has nothing other than highs.
Check out my Amp setting video and follow those steps in order. Those speakers need proper wattage to come alive.
@@akqjtn 10-4. RPM hum because ground not good enough? That's what my guess was.
Awesome job explaining things man! It sounds like you had a lot troubleshooting in your day lol
VW: 20 Watts per channel. Stock, uses components anyways.
Something you always need to consider is that tweeters only need to have a 3rd of the power of the bass speaker because the bass consumes 2 3rds of the whole power
That is definitely true, but most wattage ratings of tweeters already factor in that unequal power division.
Often the "90 watt" tweeter can only handle, say, 30 watts themselves, but they are assumed to be part of a system that handles 90 watts overall. So don't base your buying decisions of this 2/3 - 1/3 split because the marketing departments already took that into account.
kicker kit sound better with aftermarket amp than stock HK kit
Stock head unit will cause distortion on Kicker speakers.