This is an EXCELLENT hack! I just tried it on two different Trip 35s, and it worked like a charm on both. One of mine I had converted to 1/40th manual by disconnecting the meter wire, and it worked great on that camera too. That means I have true manual mode with choice of either shutter speed. Thanks for sharing this!
Ken, just to say many thanks for the webpage showing how to set the shutter speed at 1/200. My beloved trip conked out but I was able, using your instructions, to fix it as a manual camera. It actually works better than before, using the sunny 16 rule and takes lovely photos, cheers buddy!😁
This hack works on my Trip. Thanks! 😊👍🏻 But you can’t hold your hand over the lens to block the light when shifting from auto mode to apperture mode, because the camera «remember» the red flag too and the shutter will stay blocked. Great channel you got here! ⭐️
I actually stumbled upon a site way back that showed how to make the camera do the same when held upside down. Took some bending and removing parts and it seemed to work, but I remember only doing half the hack as there was another feature to be had. But this is even easier than my explanation took to type lol! thanks for sharing! I have a few of them and fortunately just "modded" one of them.
So in a sunny day I can use it without a flash and control the apperture? Just bought mine and I hated to see every video saying I can only control the focus. I wish i could find some good shots with different apperture so I could understand it better before my first film
I tried this and suddenly my blades got stucked somewhere between 16 or f22..almost closed but I think its stucked in the minimum aperture(22)....meaning aperture doesnt change when I shoot at 1/200, and neither does at 1/40 (manual mode) ... :( Do you know what can I do to undo that? :( Thanks!
Set on the red symbol ( A ) for Automatic when shooting outdoors As long as there is bright enough daylight your results should be fine Don't try and use the numbers on the ring Just Automatic only to begin with.
I bought an used OT35 last saturday, and only shoot landscape distance and on automatic mode, using a kodak aerocolor 100. The results were so disapointing. Not sure if the camera was well regulated or revised, but i was expecting more of using the lightmeter (since it allows me to rise the red flag if the conditions wouldnt be ok). The images werent exactly blurred but a typical 9am sun light simply created a foggy effect on the photos. The photos looked so flat. What should be doing wrong?
Thanks for this, wondering if I could use my old Trip in manual mode. I'm not sure if my meter works on it yet so being able to set the f stop manually will stop me ruining a whole film on it's first use in 40 years.
Getting the red flag when you try this trick? I think I have a solution! Do everything the same, but try twisting your aperture ring further towards f22 before twisting it back to the larger apertures, holding the shutter all the while. If you trigger the red flag while in auto mode and then hold the shutter down firmly while twisting your aperture ring slowly towards f22, you should find a point at which the camera gives up on the red flag and just fires the shutter. For me this is somewhere around f11-f16. I can get the trick to work if I hold down the shutter button, rotate to f11, feel the button go down a LITTLE further, then rotate back to 2.8. It seems to give me the red flag for one shutter press before actually firing, so I have to double tap, but it seems to work! I'm not 1000% sure of the mechanics yet or how universal this is to all models (I only have one to try, and I have disassembled/reassembled this camera which is maybe to blame for its weirdness), but it seems like rotating to this point and back to 2.8 (with a very careful finger to avoid firing the shutter) is the key to getting 200 at lower apertures if you're having trouble with that pesky flag.
I tried it on the ees2 with dead selenium meter. Dont think it will work. It didnt click or reset click like in the vid. I guess ill shoot 1/40 on a low light rainy day. 42 half frame blury 📸 bloody ebay. Never again 🤪
I don't really get how that hack is actually useful. If it's bright enough, you'll get the 1/200 speed and if it's dark you'll get the 1/40. Why would you need to change that? Take note that in manual mode you can't actually CHOOSE aperture, but simply set the aperture to a maximum opening, the meter still works and will stop down the lens to an aperture which ensures correct exposure (unless that aperture is wider than the one you have set).
Use cases: Broken meter, unreliable meter, shooting or pushing film past the 400 ASA limit on the light meter. Second point is interesting and I'd need to dig open a camera and look at it again to verify. I don't recall ever seeing mine do this when playing with it in manual mode. I also don't remember off-hand observing how the meter works when set to 1/40th manual, but still seems weird given that the f-stops are labelled "for flash". Having the flash set expecting a certain aperture, and the camera deciding on an f-stop a few stops away would just lead to over/under exposed photos right? But still, will need to look at a camera to verify. From my recollection of the mechanics last time I had the camera open, once the hack is in place, the mechanics get bound up in such a way that the needle connected to the light meter that picks the aperture is physically stuck in a position well away from where it helps the light meter pick what aperture to use.
@@clickroach You can easily check by turning aperture ring to 2.8 then open the back and shoot at different light sources, you'll see the aperture varying in size depending on light intensity. It can't open wider than the set aperture though, what you set on the ring is as wide as it can go. I take advantage of that when shooting under poor lighting. I load the camera with Tri-X, set aperture to 2.8 and let the meter handle things, the lens will stop down as needed. 1/40 is fast enough if you're careful with a leaf shutter camera and even if 1/40 & f2.8 is not enough, you still get something, esp. if you stand develop, no red flag to cancel your shot.
I will have to test it, but I believe the hack disables the meter. When the camera is in its default setting the long first press of the shutter release activates the meter. By locking the shutter release button close to the release position, I think the metering system is disabled. I can see a purpose to the hack, even if the meter works. The program system might select a aperture/shutter combination of say f6.3 @ 1/40th rather than f2.8 @ 1/200th. You may prefer the faster shutter speed/ narrow DoF combination over the camera's recommended setting. You would need to know, however the program setting of the camera to know if this argument is valid. It is quite possible that the Trip automatically chooses a faster shutter speed to minimize shake. I think this data should be available on line. Another good reason for the hack is to reduce shake caused by amount of travel of the shutter button. I wonder why Olympus chose the flash speed to be 1/40th rather than 1/200th, as there should be no problem at either speed as it being a leaf shutter. If a flash will still sync at 1/200th this hack may also be useful in diminishing backgrounds when using flash in poor light. Again some testing may be in order
I disagree with this. The Automatic mode on the camera controls the aperature from f2. 8 to f22 and the shutter speed will stay at 1/200th second. The camera is effectively Aperature priority at 1/200th sec. The 1/40th Second is manually set for flash shots only by taking the aperature setting off of automatic. You can however shoot manually at 1/40th second.
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This is an EXCELLENT hack! I just tried it on two different Trip 35s, and it worked like a charm on both. One of mine I had converted to 1/40th manual by disconnecting the meter wire, and it worked great on that camera too. That means I have true manual mode with choice of either shutter speed. Thanks for sharing this!
This seems to work for the similar Pen EES-2 model too! Good if your light meter is busted like mine.
Ken, just to say many thanks for the webpage showing how to set the shutter speed at 1/200. My beloved trip conked out but I was able, using your instructions, to fix it as a manual camera. It actually works better than before, using the sunny 16 rule and takes lovely photos, cheers buddy!😁
I wonder if this will work on the Olympus pen ee....🤔
Video coming soon if it does! 😁👍
Best hack I’ve found on this camera, thank you!
This hack works on my Trip. Thanks! 😊👍🏻 But you can’t hold your hand over the lens to block the light when shifting from auto mode to apperture mode, because the camera «remember» the red flag too and the shutter will stay blocked. Great channel you got here! ⭐️
fantastic! this trick also works with my Pen EE-EL!or any other model that has that red flag. thank you!!
Dear Pras,
You're a genius.
Sincerely,
Six
Can You post standard VS 1/200 results please?
I actually stumbled upon a site way back that showed how to make the camera do the same when held upside down. Took some bending and removing parts and it seemed to work, but I remember only doing half the hack as there was another feature to be had. But this is even easier than my explanation took to type lol! thanks for sharing! I have a few of them and fortunately just "modded" one of them.
So in a sunny day I can use it without a flash and control the apperture? Just bought mine and I hated to see every video saying I can only control the focus. I wish i could find some good shots with different apperture so I could understand it better before my first film
I tried this and suddenly my blades got stucked somewhere between 16 or f22..almost closed but I think its stucked in the minimum aperture(22)....meaning aperture doesnt change when I shoot at 1/200, and neither does at 1/40 (manual mode) ... :( Do you know what can I do to undo that? :(
Thanks!
A sunny day? What’s one of those? 😜 I want to get my hands on an Olympus Trip 35; sweet looking camera!
Set on the red symbol ( A ) for Automatic when shooting outdoors
As long as there is bright enough daylight your results should be fine
Don't try and use the numbers on the ring
Just Automatic only to begin with.
I bought an used OT35 last saturday, and only shoot landscape distance and on automatic mode, using a kodak aerocolor 100. The results were so disapointing. Not sure if the camera was well regulated or revised, but i was expecting more of using the lightmeter (since it allows me to rise the red flag if the conditions wouldnt be ok). The images werent exactly blurred but a typical 9am sun light simply created a foggy effect on the photos. The photos looked so flat. What should be doing wrong?
Sweet hack! Thanks!
Will this hack also work with the Olympus Pen EE-S?
Thanks for this, wondering if I could use my old Trip in manual mode. I'm not sure if my meter works on it yet so being able to set the f stop manually will stop me ruining a whole film on it's first use in 40 years.
Will the /200ss snap back to normal if you move the aperture to other values other than A?
Nice 👍🏻
Getting the red flag when you try this trick? I think I have a solution! Do everything the same, but try twisting your aperture ring further towards f22 before twisting it back to the larger apertures, holding the shutter all the while.
If you trigger the red flag while in auto mode and then hold the shutter down firmly while twisting your aperture ring slowly towards f22, you should find a point at which the camera gives up on the red flag and just fires the shutter. For me this is somewhere around f11-f16. I can get the trick to work if I hold down the shutter button, rotate to f11, feel the button go down a LITTLE further, then rotate back to 2.8. It seems to give me the red flag for one shutter press before actually firing, so I have to double tap, but it seems to work!
I'm not 1000% sure of the mechanics yet or how universal this is to all models (I only have one to try, and I have disassembled/reassembled this camera which is maybe to blame for its weirdness), but it seems like rotating to this point and back to 2.8 (with a very careful finger to avoid firing the shutter) is the key to getting 200 at lower apertures if you're having trouble with that pesky flag.
Genius!!
Does this work with an Olympus Pen that I've modified to take 120 film?
😯
haahahahahah, finally i've been waiting this video so long
genius
I tried it on the ees2 with dead selenium meter. Dont think it will work. It didnt click or reset click like in the vid. I guess ill shoot 1/40 on a low light rainy day. 42 half frame blury 📸 bloody ebay. Never again 🤪
I don't really get how that hack is actually useful. If it's bright enough, you'll get the 1/200 speed and if it's dark you'll get the 1/40. Why would you need to change that? Take note that in manual mode you can't actually CHOOSE aperture, but simply set the aperture to a maximum opening, the meter still works and will stop down the lens to an aperture which ensures correct exposure (unless that aperture is wider than the one you have set).
Use cases: Broken meter, unreliable meter, shooting or pushing film past the 400 ASA limit on the light meter.
Second point is interesting and I'd need to dig open a camera and look at it again to verify. I don't recall ever seeing mine do this when playing with it in manual mode. I also don't remember off-hand observing how the meter works when set to 1/40th manual, but still seems weird given that the f-stops are labelled "for flash". Having the flash set expecting a certain aperture, and the camera deciding on an f-stop a few stops away would just lead to over/under exposed photos right? But still, will need to look at a camera to verify. From my recollection of the mechanics last time I had the camera open, once the hack is in place, the mechanics get bound up in such a way that the needle connected to the light meter that picks the aperture is physically stuck in a position well away from where it helps the light meter pick what aperture to use.
light meter broken bro. because manual fix speed 1/40 i think shake picture haha . if 1/200 good pic sure
@@clickroach You can easily check by turning aperture ring to 2.8 then open the back and shoot at different light sources, you'll see the aperture varying in size depending on light intensity. It can't open wider than the set aperture though, what you set on the ring is as wide as it can go. I take advantage of that when shooting under poor lighting. I load the camera with Tri-X, set aperture to 2.8 and let the meter handle things, the lens will stop down as needed. 1/40 is fast enough if you're careful with a leaf shutter camera and even if 1/40 & f2.8 is not enough, you still get something, esp. if you stand develop, no red flag to cancel your shot.
@@clickroach www.thermojetstove.com/Trip35/
I will have to test it, but I believe the hack disables the meter. When the camera is in its default setting the long first press of the shutter release activates the meter. By locking the shutter release button close to the release position, I think the metering system is disabled.
I can see a purpose to the hack, even if the meter works. The program system might select a aperture/shutter combination of say f6.3 @ 1/40th rather than f2.8 @ 1/200th. You may prefer the faster shutter speed/ narrow DoF combination over the camera's recommended setting. You would need to know, however the program setting of the camera to know if this argument is valid. It is quite possible that the Trip automatically chooses a faster shutter speed to minimize shake. I think this data should be available on line.
Another good reason for the hack is to reduce shake caused by amount of travel of the shutter button.
I wonder why Olympus chose the flash speed to be 1/40th rather than 1/200th, as there should be no problem at either speed as it being a leaf shutter. If a flash will still sync at 1/200th this hack may also be useful in diminishing backgrounds when using flash in poor light. Again some testing may be in order
I disagree with this. The Automatic mode on the camera controls the aperature from f2. 8 to f22 and the shutter speed will stay at 1/200th second.
The camera is effectively Aperature priority at 1/200th sec.
The 1/40th Second is manually set for flash shots only by taking the aperature setting off of automatic.
You can however shoot manually at 1/40th second.
The camera will use both 1/200 & 1/40th while in auto mode. The instruction manual even says as much.