The costs are detailed on the DVD. I don't remember the exact figure off the top of my head, but I think we had +/- $4,000 into the shop, including excavation, slab, walls, roof, windows, doors, insulation, wiring... the works. I don't heat the shop in the winter, unless I am working on a project that requires it, but it is insulated well enough to stay above freezing all winter without heat.
you are the FIRST stonemason I come across ,that stresses cleaning the stone from dust and dirt so that the surface can be clean and the mortar sticks better!! Kudos to you all !!!!
The walls I have been making I high pressure wash every stone a few days before I lay them and stack off the ground on pallets, no issues with mortar sticking to nice clean rocks
Thanks for the video, Tom. I've been building stone slipform walls as part of my masonry repertoire for 27 years. I have some comments which you may find helpful. Most of my slipform walls are freestanding garden walls, that is, both sides and cap are showy stone, and the walls often curve sinuously. I've built 30 ft. tall chimneys and fireplaces as well, using slipforms, but my slipforms are simple triangular braces which are pinned into the ground, and use forms which are generally just reusable 16" x 8' sheets of deformable 7/16" cdx plywood. The plywood is clamped into position at the top, which makes it easy to fuddle with things in order to create absolute plumb. 1. My first comment is that, imo, it makes little sense to try to mimic a proper rubble masonry style, as you have here, by attempting "blind" fits into a form. Why not just learn and apply proper veneer masonry shaping and fitting and structural must's to create quality fits and uniform joint widths? It would save you the hassle of lifting and re-setting the cumbersome forms higher and higher. It would save you the hassle of waiting a day to strip the form, only to find you have yawning gaps visually competing with rock-to-rock contacts to inform the viewer that the wall was cast, not made with craft. The mortar has become unmanageable by the next day, and after chiseling out excess extrusions, striking fresh mortar into the deep gaps will likely make the wall's appearance even further from traditional rubble masonry. The need to then acid etch the film from the rock faces is a further inefficiency. 2. My solution has been to build with a stone type, river cobble, which can only feasibly be laid into slipforms. The beauty of smooth, non-angular egg-shaped or round rocks is a) they're beautiful, b) they nestle into the the swales left above the joints created by the courses below, and c) if you use a low-viscous mortar mix, you can remove the form almost immediately upon laying the last rock, assuming you've bedded each stone well and aggressively filled all the voids as you build. This immediate removal allows you to carefully tool, strike and shape the mud to reveal as much stone as possible while the mortar's still malleable. Larger cobble can be overlapped at the corners as if they are quoins, so that structural appeal can be at least simulated. A large "boat sponge" is used to somewhat aggressively finish the joints to give them continuity in size and depth. In the early stages of scouring the joints, the sponge picks up sand abrasives, which give it excellent bite into the joints. The later into the process, the more frequently you want to wring the abrasives out of the sponge and use clean, untainted water, to ultimately final-sponge the film left on the cobble surfaces. 3. Slipform is a great technology, but it's best use is with stone that can't otherwise be laid skillfully without the use of slipforms. Tapered river cobbles can be used to make lovely arches, and elongated ones can create corner quoins and other features specific to skillfully rendered stone masonry. A final tip: use only angular sand and portland cement in your mortar in order to avoid the winter white crust called 'efflorescence' to appear on your outdoor builds.
search "slipform" on StoneMad for links to some pics and discussion. I'm Todd C. Pleased to meet you. I dislike the title dirtcheapbuilder. Quality building costs money, time, sweat, skill - things not easily acquired or replaced, so why represent them as cheap?
Gary, 3:1 sand to portland, dry-ish mix, no builder's lime. I use crushed basalt sand, which may induce some waterproofing qualities in the mortar due to pozzolanic reaction.
There is a cost breakdown on the DVD. I don't remember the figures off the top of my head, but I believe we put about $4,000 into the shop. That included everything from excavating and pouring the slab, to building the insulated stone walls, putting the roof on, windows, doors, and electrical work.
Believe it or not they have your video at my local library. It’s an interesting new approach to an old method; slip forming stone is actually pretty common throughout Central PA. It was mostly used were stone was not intended to be visible such as basement/foundation walls, and houses that were to be lime plastered and white washed.
I really enjoyed the video..I'm looking for a piece of land down in Ft Myers florida area to build about a 800sqft. Home for me and my dog. I'm a disabled vet and this is all the space I need. Looks great!!!
That looks great! I have an unlimited supply of rocks here at the property. I'm always looking for cool ways to build rock features around the house. I want to combine the concrete to make some new art projects, using forms was what I was thinking. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome great job. A lot of colonial buildings and homesteads in Australia are built by hand from rock or stone ,no insulation other than the property's of the material. I have seen a lot of them and they still impress me. I do realize you are using modern method's of construction but none the less looks great. P.S Can you come and build me one ?
Oh geeeeeeze. Just build the stone wall!! It's half the work and twice as authentic of a look. It's not difficult to build a stone wall @ all. Good job either way.
You put a ton of one-sided thought into this comment. There are plenty of benefits to slipform walls like not needing perfectly formed stones; being able to have wall material in the interior to build on like shelves or peg boards; cutting a cave-in risk with the interior wall and hidden rebar as a brace... at least you ended with some positivity.
I wonder whether aircrete would work in place of the concrete as a filler for slipform stone masonry. It would be a less expensive, lighter, more insulated structure. Maybe strength would be a issue?
Interesting idea. For this application it seems like the different compression strength compared to the stone would be an issue. However, I would love to work with aircrete on some other project! Here's a tour of my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Sure, that could be a concern. According to the Healthy House Institute (.com), "OSB and exterior plywood both contain a formaldehyde-based, waterproof resin called phenol-formaldehyde (PF). Compared to the widely used urea-formaldehyde (UF) resin, PF resins emit relatively low levels of formaldehyde." Oriented strand board is used pervasively in modern construction, and while I am not overly fond of it, at least the price was right - Free!
I'm sure that you could use mud to fill the joints along the slipforms to keep the concrete from squeezing out in front of the rocks. It would take a little more time, but might save some chipping and grouting work later in the process. I'd like to try that method some time, too!
Ohhh pleaseee don't use cement to build stone walls!!!! You should be using 1/3 pure lime with a 8% mixture of cement and 2/3 sand! Lime lets the wall breath and doesn't trap humidity in the walls and lime also kills bacteria. Lime lasts 1000 years were cement holds 100 years. Lime can handle cold to warm temperature changes were cement tends to crack!
Kayrak taş ocağı kardeşimin tarlasına çok yakın ve çok hesaplı dere yatağında da büyük çakıl taşları var, pratik ve ustalık gerektirmeden sağlam bir duvar nasıl yapılır cevabını da görerek öğrendim Bu video da gördüklerimizi uygulayıp tarla sınırlarını taş duvarla çevireceğiz.Teşekkürler
I am from the country side where the stone is plenty but people are crazy after buying bricks from the city st a sky rocketing cost. When I am back to the village from city l am planning to build stone house.
I hope your building project goes well! Here's another one of my low-cost stone building projects you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Yes! Small is beautiful. Most people make the mistake of going to big when they build. Here is a tour of my own house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Ideally there should be no wood against the concrete, although it isn't much of an issue in the arid West. The beadboard insulation can contact the mortar directly. Here is a full tour of my house you might also enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Look at the profile of El Racó del Bosc, they are artisans working with natural stone, it is an area with more than a thousand years of history, they have gastrotourism experiences.
I bet they have amazing stonework there! I'd like to spend a winter in Spain sometime. I'll be sure to check out the stonework. Here is a look at my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Jeff - Yes, that's probably a good plan in more humid environments. It doesn't seem to be an issue here in arid Montana. Here's an inside tour of my house: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Well, twenty years after building that shop, I am starting to dream about building a full size garage. In the meantime, here is a video about the rest of my place: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
The oriented strand board (OSB) should be left off the outside of the structural insulating panels, so that the concrete goes directly against the beadboard insulation, and not up against the wood. For my workshop, however, we used scrap insulation panels obtained for free, and left the wood in place. But this part of Montana is drier than most of Arizona, so I don't believe it will be a significant problem. :)
I saw another house where they used sand to prevent the concrete from getting through to the face of the rocks too much. What I was wondering is if you're going to grout anyway, could you use mud? I figure mud would be easier to work with, and easy enough to wash off, but I wonder if it would have any negative effects on the concrete.
We haven't noticed any problems over the past 20 years. We do live in a dry climate. Here is a full tour of my house: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Yeah. The wall between my house and greenhouse is stone-faced on both sides, without insulation: www.dirtcheapbuilder.com/Articles/Building_on_Limited_Means.htm
How practical would it be to have stone on both sides and insulation in the middle? It's a little disappointing to see beautiful stone walls on the outside and blah sheetrock on the inside.
I have built stone walls with insulation in the core. The walls are 18 1/2 inches thick, including 3 inches of foil-faced polyisocyanurate ("polyiso board") sandwiched in the middle. We pushed rebar through the insulation here and there two tie the two stone walls together. See my book Living Homes for details: www.hopspress.com
tom, have you ever purchased a ladder or do you prefer to just pile shit up and stand on it? I'd rather see quality in the end rather than scavengry just to save a buck.
@@edwardwhite221 well, hes the one with the finished project your here to see and hes not a contractor bound by OSHA crybabies. im here to see a quality finished product i intend to do myself....not how much he spent in equipment. most of us DIY types live by scavengry just to save a buck.
Anthony - The walls are similar in weight-bearing capacity to concrete walls. Here's a tour of my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Yes, Brent, the reinforced stone/concrete wall fully supports the roof load. You can see a tour of my house here: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Yeah, probably should have, but we live in a dry climate, and I haven't seen any deterioration in twenty years. Here's a tour of my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
The panels are nice. We can still get them in the back but they tend to build up and harbor mice. chickens also think they are food. I'm happy with just the stone
Oh......what about covering those insulated panels on the outside face before forms ,stone and concrete poured /placed up against them, that would protect that wood from moisture from the concrete , weather etc.
My thoughts exactly, that OSB is going to turn to a moldy rotten mess in no time! the moisture from that wall will wick right into the wood and destroy it! Bad move.
Whats the risk of one of the stones falling off the wall? Pretty cool video though. If I were to build one in California, would I need to put any braces on the inside and outside?
I’ve had many clients who have me take down old plaster, and repoint the joints to expose the stone, even though the original masons/builders would be ashamed if they knew I was exposing their inferior work. The method differs mainly in the fact, local slip form work is still laid like traditional stone work, mass into the wall, laid flat and nothing taller than it is long. And of course they were using traditional mortar often with high clay content to prevent water passing through the wall.
It's the outgassing one doesn't notice that would concern me. With certain synthetic chemicals and the products made from them, toxic outgassing will be present as long as the product is. I have not done the research, but the substances used to hold particle board or OSB together would be highly suspect.
That would be cool. But with a little practice, you can learn to "see" the wall from the backside. Here's a tour of my home you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Did I hear this right ?? He wrote an article about it. Someone contacted him, and said “of course, I had not trued this myself” - c.9.40. Seems odd to me.
get the walls up in your house in a single skin of brick . then at your own time attach stone to wall , 6 mm gal rod should be drilled into brick as the stone comes up and polystyrene foam is sometimes put against the wall to act as a cavity .. this way you're in your house and can plod away with the stonework .
Hi Thomas, thank you very much for your workshop! Want to do smth similar in Tarragona, Spain, before starting, I am doing calculations so the 1st thing to know would be how much mortar you need per square meter? (an estimation at least). Thx ahead, Cheers, Corneliu
Pardon my question, but did you affix the insulated panels to the slab somehow? Or just kind of stand them up there??? And would it be better to wrap it in Tyvek before you start with the stone work?
Yes, we stood the panels up or braced them in place, then did the stonework up against the panels. Holes in the beadboard allows concrete to grip the insulation and create a permanent bond. No need for Tyvek. :)
Great Video, Try a cream color tile grout die next time ,mix it into your morter for your joints ,it will give you the look that the building is older then it is
We don't have the luxury of free stone in Australia xD Granite is plentiful, but even if you're lucky enough to know a farmer with a few giant outcrops, you'd still need to have it broken up and removed - a costly enough process in itself. We looked at building a stone retaining wall, and it would've cost us an absolute fortune...I'd love to have some stone features in our next house, but I think we'll build with mud brick.
Right. Here in america the land that gets flattened out usually has rocks or are collected from a large homestead, or a quarry. Australias got cattle are your straw prices lower-ish? Look into strawbale as they do well on hot dry climates and are highly insulative.
Peter - It could be done with traditional masonry, especially against the backing, but formwork is useful for beginners, and we wanted to be consistent in style with the house. Take a look: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
That's a good idea. I think they had insulation on the other side, thus serving the same purpose for separation, but serving the greater purpose on the building.
Problem is, no thought has been given to the corners and how they would look when the shuttering is removed. The corners look like wallpaper rather than a 'constructed' wall. The effect of bonding is mostly non-existent and arrived at by accident rather than design.
he did say to save the flat sided stones for the corners, so I'd say some thought is given to it. Perhaps overlapping stones coming from each side of the corner would be good. Structurally, the concrete behind the stones does the heavy lifting, so it's not the end of the world, in any case.
Using thin pieces of stone like this to create a veneer, means the corners are always going to look unnatural. Plus using face bedded stone on its side looks wrong too, but if that floats his boat....
I would love to know how this building does in terms of climate control. It looks built into a hill, with tons of insulation and a lot of mass in that stonework. Does it stay warm in the winter and cool in the summer?
One thing what I just simply can not get is why it is so popular in US to use that almost useless power drill instead of handy and light cordless drill ?!?
Because it's much more powerful and doesn't require having batteries charged all the time. Cordless is handy if you're just screwing nails in places. I love my 20V Dewalt system for that, but power drills still have tons of uses, especially high torque and long duration operations like drilling concrete or paddle mixing.
specifically, he uses 8" (+) screws, which requires more torque than hanging drywall. At a construction site, the generator is going to be running anyway (either to charge tons of batteries, or to power the tools), may as well use the torque, and git-r-dun quickly. As the others said, there's a place for the cordless, but, if you're using a drill to mix paint, stir compound, run dozens of 8" screws, etc, you can't beat a good ol' 120v craftsman....plus, my corded one is good excercise. the bloomin' thing weighs a ton! :-)
You did a lot of nice work. I'm sorry but my brain has a big problem with all of the stones being different colors and different shapes. Painful to look at.
The costs are detailed on the DVD. I don't remember the exact figure off the top of my head, but I think we had +/- $4,000 into the shop, including excavation, slab, walls, roof, windows, doors, insulation, wiring... the works. I don't heat the shop in the winter, unless I am working on a project that requires it, but it is insulated well enough to stay above freezing all winter without heat.
You had $0 in ladders for sure.
Cheap shit
Thomas J Elpel lindo demais,
I love it. Thank you for the great idea
you are the FIRST stonemason I come across ,that stresses cleaning the stone from dust and dirt so that the surface can be clean and the mortar sticks better!! Kudos to you all !!!!
The walls I have been making I high pressure wash every stone a few days before I lay them and stack off the ground on pallets, no issues with mortar sticking to nice clean rocks
I can tell alot of effort went into making this video. Great ideas and good job.
Very cool! I love see different techniques and then seeing how far you can push them and where you can take them to
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to watch this one too: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video, Tom. I've been building stone slipform walls as part of my masonry repertoire for 27 years. I have some comments which you may find helpful.
Most of my slipform walls are freestanding garden walls, that is, both sides and cap are showy stone, and the walls often curve sinuously. I've built 30 ft. tall chimneys and fireplaces as well, using slipforms, but my slipforms are simple triangular braces which are pinned into the ground, and use forms which are generally just reusable 16" x 8' sheets of deformable 7/16" cdx plywood. The plywood is clamped into position at the top, which makes it easy to fuddle with things in order to create absolute plumb.
1. My first comment is that, imo, it makes little sense to try to mimic a proper rubble masonry style, as you have here, by attempting "blind" fits into a form. Why not just learn and apply proper veneer masonry shaping and fitting and structural must's to create quality fits and uniform joint widths? It would save you the hassle of lifting and re-setting the cumbersome forms higher and higher. It would save you the hassle of waiting a day to strip the form, only to find you have yawning gaps visually competing with rock-to-rock contacts to inform the viewer that the wall was cast, not made with craft. The mortar has become unmanageable by the next day, and after chiseling out excess extrusions, striking fresh mortar into the deep gaps will likely make the wall's appearance even further from traditional rubble masonry. The need to then acid etch the film from the rock faces is a further inefficiency.
2. My solution has been to build with a stone type, river cobble, which can only feasibly be laid into slipforms. The beauty of smooth, non-angular egg-shaped or round rocks is a) they're beautiful, b) they nestle into the the swales left above the joints created by the courses below, and c) if you use a low-viscous mortar mix, you can remove the form almost immediately upon laying the last rock, assuming you've bedded each stone well and aggressively filled all the voids as you build. This immediate removal allows you to carefully tool, strike and shape the mud to reveal as much stone as possible while the mortar's still malleable. Larger cobble can be overlapped at the corners as if they are quoins, so that structural appeal can be at least simulated. A large "boat sponge" is used to somewhat aggressively finish the joints to give them continuity in size and depth. In the early stages of scouring the joints, the sponge picks up sand abrasives, which give it excellent bite into the joints. The later into the process, the more frequently you want to wring the abrasives out of the sponge and use clean, untainted water, to ultimately final-sponge the film left on the cobble surfaces.
3. Slipform is a great technology, but it's best use is with stone that can't otherwise be laid skillfully without the use of slipforms. Tapered river cobbles can be used to make lovely arches, and elongated ones can create corner quoins and other features specific to skillfully rendered stone masonry. A final tip: use only angular sand and portland cement in your mortar in order to avoid the winter white crust called 'efflorescence' to appear on your outdoor builds.
Great tips! Do you have a website with photos? Or would you like to contribute an article with photos to our site?: www.DirtCheapBuilder.com
search "slipform" on StoneMad for links to some pics and discussion. I'm Todd C. Pleased to meet you. I dislike the title dirtcheapbuilder. Quality building costs money, time, sweat, skill - things not easily acquired or replaced, so why represent them as cheap?
What was your mix just out of curiosity? When I built my gravity retaining wall I used concrete sand.
Gary, 3:1 sand to portland, dry-ish mix, no builder's lime. I use crushed basalt sand, which may induce some waterproofing qualities in the mortar due to pozzolanic reaction.
Hi there, I'm planning on building stone wall holiday units. Do you have a website or a job near me? Cheers
That Hops Press was short but one of the best intros I've ever seen.
Great result. I would love that workshop.
I have to say i watched the video again and if i understand correctly this was the first time you do this, for that I have to say good job!
There is a cost breakdown on the DVD. I don't remember the figures off the top of my head, but I believe we put about $4,000 into the shop. That included everything from excavating and pouring the slab, to building the insulated stone walls, putting the roof on, windows, doors, and electrical work.
Thanks for the tip! I usually don't like colored grout with stonework, but an old-fashioned white look sounds just right to me.
Thanks for putting it up for those of us that aquire info visually 👍
I think you're exceptional, I love what's happening here
Believe it or not they have your video at my local library. It’s an interesting new approach to an old method; slip forming stone is actually pretty common throughout Central PA. It was mostly used were stone was not intended to be visible such as basement/foundation walls, and houses that were to be lime plastered and white washed.
I really enjoyed the video..I'm looking for a piece of land down in Ft Myers florida area to build about a 800sqft. Home for me and my dog. I'm a disabled vet and this is all the space I need. Looks great!!!
That looks great! I have an unlimited supply of rocks here at the property. I'm always looking for cool ways to build rock features around the house. I want to combine the concrete to make some new art projects, using forms was what I was thinking. Thanks for sharing.
Let me know how it goes! And here is a tour of my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
No noticeable problems with outgassing. I later built an entire house with this method and it worked fine.
Very cool and looks nice finished!
Very very nice work
Awesome great job. A lot of colonial buildings and homesteads in Australia are built by hand from rock or stone ,no insulation other than the property's of the material. I have seen a lot of them and they still impress me. I do realize you are using modern method's of construction but none the less looks great.
P.S Can you come and build me one ?
24oras
Oh geeeeeeze. Just build the stone wall!! It's half the work and twice as authentic of a look. It's not difficult to build a stone wall @ all. Good job either way.
You put a ton of one-sided thought into this comment. There are plenty of benefits to slipform walls like not needing perfectly formed stones; being able to have wall material in the interior to build on like shelves or peg boards; cutting a cave-in risk with the interior wall and hidden rebar as a brace... at least you ended with some positivity.
th-cam.com/video/M-3i8RlDfmU/w-d-xo.html
Good Job! Excellent work. Thanking very much for sharing.
Thats a sturdy looking building you have there. Great video!
Reminds me of the 3 little pigs!
I wonder whether aircrete would work in place of the concrete as a filler for slipform stone masonry. It would be a less expensive, lighter, more insulated structure. Maybe strength would be a issue?
Interesting idea. For this application it seems like the different compression strength compared to the stone would be an issue. However, I would love to work with aircrete on some other project! Here's a tour of my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Ty for sharing your knowledge, it helps!
What kind of safety tennis shoes are those. 🤣🤪😅. Great video. Just straight talk with some kidding around 👍
Thanks Mike! Here's another one of my building projects you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/-csxSe9jEeY/w-d-xo.html
Really nice good work!
Thank you Alexandru. Be sure to watch this one too, if you haven't already seen it: th-cam.com/video/-csxSe9jEeY/w-d-xo.html
Beautiful!
Fantastic! More videos please.
Sure, that could be a concern. According to the Healthy House Institute (.com), "OSB and exterior plywood both contain a formaldehyde-based, waterproof resin called phenol-formaldehyde (PF). Compared to the widely used urea-formaldehyde (UF) resin, PF resins emit relatively low levels of formaldehyde."
Oriented strand board is used pervasively in modern construction, and while I am not overly fond of it, at least the price was right - Free!
I'm sure that you could use mud to fill the joints along the slipforms to keep the concrete from squeezing out in front of the rocks. It would take a little more time, but might save some chipping and grouting work later in the process. I'd like to try that method some time, too!
I have a single word: fascinating
I'm glad you enjoyed the videos! Please check out our website: www.dirtcheapbuilder.com/
Nice work!
Ohhh pleaseee don't use cement to build stone walls!!!! You should be using 1/3 pure lime with a 8% mixture of cement and 2/3 sand! Lime lets the wall breath and doesn't trap humidity in the walls and lime also kills bacteria. Lime lasts 1000 years were cement holds 100 years. Lime can handle cold to warm temperature changes were cement tends to crack!
*****
Cheers to you Justin!
this looks super old, but i agree as a brick mason.
*****
You should be able to get it where you get your cement .
hey sorry for the late reply! you can use any kind of lime.
Makoto Ozaki
I'm getting a vision of a stone wall with 1000's of key limes stuffed into the cracks
Kayrak taş ocağı kardeşimin tarlasına çok yakın ve çok hesaplı dere yatağında da büyük çakıl taşları var, pratik ve ustalık gerektirmeden sağlam bir duvar nasıl yapılır cevabını da görerek öğrendim Bu video da gördüklerimizi uygulayıp tarla sınırlarını taş duvarla çevireceğiz.Teşekkürler
As you will see on the full dvd, we cut channels into the wall with a saw, pushed the wires in, and filled the gap with expanding foam sealant.
thanks for inspiring me
Thanks Selena. I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Here's a tour of my house you might also enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
I am from the country side where the stone is plenty but people are crazy after buying bricks from the city st a sky rocketing cost. When I am back to the village from city l am planning to build stone house.
I hope your building project goes well! Here's another one of my low-cost stone building projects you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
@@thomasjelpel thank you my friend.
Cool work
Is it possible to build a very small two bedroom house this way? Just a simple box just for me.
Yes! Small is beautiful. Most people make the mistake of going to big when they build. Here is a tour of my own house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
congratulations!! Too beautiful, your building
For the interior insulation where the rebar/concrete meets it would you want to put weather wrap?
Ideally there should be no wood against the concrete, although it isn't much of an issue in the arid West. The beadboard insulation can contact the mortar directly. Here is a full tour of my house you might also enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Look at the profile of El Racó del Bosc, they are artisans working with natural stone, it is an area with more than a thousand years of history, they have gastrotourism experiences.
I bet they have amazing stonework there! I'd like to spend a winter in Spain sometime. I'll be sure to check out the stonework. Here is a look at my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Looks good. But dont you want to have some moisture barrier in your wall and roof? Like plastic (pond) liner.
Jeff - Yes, that's probably a good plan in more humid environments. It doesn't seem to be an issue here in arid Montana. Here's an inside tour of my house: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Interesting! Any update since this video was made?
Well, twenty years after building that shop, I am starting to dream about building a full size garage. In the meantime, here is a video about the rest of my place: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
@@thomasjelpel thank you!
a very handsome building
The oriented strand board (OSB) should be left off the outside of the structural insulating panels, so that the concrete goes directly against the beadboard insulation, and not up against the wood. For my workshop, however, we used scrap insulation panels obtained for free, and left the wood in place. But this part of Montana is drier than most of Arizona, so I don't believe it will be a significant problem. :)
thank you for posting. How strong an earthquake can this house resist? I live in a region I can easily get 5 degrees Richter scale earthquake...
I saw another house where they used sand to prevent the concrete from getting through to the face of the rocks too much. What I was wondering is if you're going to grout anyway, could you use mud? I figure mud would be easier to work with, and easy enough to wash off, but I wonder if it would have any negative effects on the concrete.
Brilliant stuff. When you are flying by next time plz can you build one in my garden too
isnt the plywood going to rot as moisture migrates in from the stone wall/concrete?
We haven't noticed any problems over the past 20 years. We do live in a dry climate. Here is a full tour of my house: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Have you tried making a wall without the insulation panels, just stone on both sides? Beautiful build.
Yeah. The wall between my house and greenhouse is stone-faced on both sides, without insulation: www.dirtcheapbuilder.com/Articles/Building_on_Limited_Means.htm
How practical would it be to have stone on both sides and insulation in the middle? It's a little disappointing to see beautiful stone walls on the outside and blah sheetrock on the inside.
I have built stone walls with insulation in the core. The walls are 18 1/2 inches thick, including 3 inches of foil-faced polyisocyanurate ("polyiso board") sandwiched in the middle. We pushed rebar through the insulation here and there two tie the two stone walls together. See my book Living Homes for details: www.hopspress.com
tom, have you ever purchased a ladder or do you prefer to just pile shit up and stand on it? I'd rather see quality in the end rather than scavengry just to save a buck.
@@edwardwhite221 well, hes the one with the finished project your here to see and hes not a contractor bound by OSHA crybabies. im here to see a quality finished product i intend to do myself....not how much he spent in equipment. most of us DIY types live by scavengry just to save a buck.
Great! Good luck with your project. Let me know how it goes!
I doubt anyone still replies on here... Do these walls have any weight bearing capacity?
Anthony - The walls are similar in weight-bearing capacity to concrete walls. Here's a tour of my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Does poring the concrete in multiply layers at different time create cold joints that are prone to cracking?
@@bitzer8115 Cold joints, yes, cracking no. Be sure to watch this follow-up video: th-cam.com/video/-csxSe9jEeY/w-d-xo.html
@@thomasjelpel Thanks for the quick reply.
WELL DONE, CHEERS
Thank You again Friend, great video once again Cheers
wow
muito bom!
parabens!
Thank you Marcos! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. You might also enjoy seeing a tour of my house here: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Beautiful location!
Does the concrete and stone carry the roof load?
Yes, Brent, the reinforced stone/concrete wall fully supports the roof load. You can see a tour of my house here: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
I can't believe you didn't put underlayment on the OSB.
Yeah, probably should have, but we live in a dry climate, and I haven't seen any deterioration in twenty years. Here's a tour of my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
What about using waterproofing on the cement side of those SIPs? Even exterior grade chipboard, needs waterproofing, to insure longevity.
The panels are nice. We can still get them in the back but they tend to build up and harbor mice. chickens also think they are food. I'm happy with just the stone
Robert - Yes, it is important to keep them away from the chickens! Here's a tour of my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
thanx for sharing, very very good!!!
Oh......what about covering those insulated panels on the outside face before forms ,stone and concrete poured /placed up against them, that would protect that wood from moisture from the concrete , weather etc.
My thoughts exactly, that OSB is going to turn to a moldy rotten mess in no time! the moisture from that wall will wick right into the wood and destroy it! Bad move.
There was a day that your drill would weight 3pounds, extremely bulky, the cord always got stuck,way too much torque
But it would never die.
buen video, yo realice un muro d retencion d 80 cm d altura cuando tenia 10 años d edad, forma d madera es lo mas facil.
Gracias Rick. Me alegro que hayas disfrutado del video. Aquí hay otro que puede disfrutar: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Whats the risk of one of the stones falling off the wall? Pretty cool video though. If I were to build one in California, would I need to put any braces on the inside and outside?
I’ve had many clients who have me take down old plaster, and repoint the joints to expose the stone, even though the original masons/builders would be ashamed if they knew I was exposing their inferior work. The method differs mainly in the fact, local slip form work is still laid like traditional stone work, mass into the wall, laid flat and nothing taller than it is long. And of course they were using traditional mortar often with high clay content to prevent water passing through the wall.
Good job 👍
It's the outgassing one doesn't notice that would concern me. With certain synthetic chemicals and the products made from them, toxic outgassing will be present as long as the product is. I have not done the research, but the substances used to hold particle board or OSB together would be highly suspect.
imagine using thick transparent Perspex on the outside panel so you could see what you are doing.
That would be cool. But with a little practice, you can learn to "see" the wall from the backside. Here's a tour of my home you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Did I hear this right ?? He wrote an article about it. Someone contacted him, and said “of course, I had not trued this myself” - c.9.40. Seems odd to me.
Is this design material suitable for extreme weather conditions? Like hot summer n cold winter?
Its a great book buy it
get the walls up in your house in a single skin of brick . then at your own time attach stone to wall , 6 mm gal rod should be drilled into brick as the stone comes up and polystyrene foam is sometimes put against the wall to act as a cavity .. this way you're in your house and can plod away with the stonework .
Hi Thomas,
thank you very much for your workshop!
Want to do smth similar in Tarragona, Spain, before starting, I am doing calculations so the 1st thing to know would be how much mortar you need per square meter? (an estimation at least). Thx ahead, Cheers, Corneliu
You could easily get that help in your hometown. You guys use concrete for everything.You local handyman would know.
cement is the hardening agent in concrete, made from baked limestone. so yes concrete can be screeded
Pardon my question, but did you affix the insulated panels to the slab somehow? Or just kind of stand them up there??? And would it be better to wrap it in Tyvek before you start with the stone work?
Yes, we stood the panels up or braced them in place, then did the stonework up against the panels. Holes in the beadboard allows concrete to grip the insulation and create a permanent bond. No need for Tyvek. :)
Great Video, Try a cream color tile grout die next time ,mix it into your morter for your joints ,it will give you the look that the building is older then it is
We don't have the luxury of free stone in Australia xD Granite is plentiful, but even if you're lucky enough to know a farmer with a few giant outcrops, you'd still need to have it broken up and removed - a costly enough process in itself.
We looked at building a stone retaining wall, and it would've cost us an absolute fortune...I'd love to have some stone features in our next house, but I think we'll build with mud brick.
Right. Here in america the land that gets flattened out usually has rocks or are collected from a large homestead, or a quarry. Australias got cattle are your straw prices lower-ish? Look into strawbale as they do well on hot dry climates and are highly insulative.
very good and useful
wood shingle would look much nicer on the roof. Gr8 job. Well done, guys.
Why not build it in traditional stonework , it would look much better ?
Peter - It could be done with traditional masonry, especially against the backing, but formwork is useful for beginners, and we wanted to be consistent in style with the house. Take a look: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
so nice
Good stuff....Thank you.
wow! thank you so much.
My only questions is, how do you run electric thru the walls of foam?
i would paper the chip board wall first before pour concrete against it.
That's a good idea. I think they had insulation on the other side, thus serving the same purpose for separation, but serving the greater purpose on the building.
Problem is, no thought has been given to the corners and how they would look when the shuttering is removed. The corners look like wallpaper rather than a 'constructed' wall. The effect of bonding is mostly non-existent and arrived at by accident rather than design.
he did say to save the flat sided stones for the corners, so I'd say some thought is given to it. Perhaps overlapping stones coming from each side of the corner would be good. Structurally, the concrete behind the stones does the heavy lifting, so it's not the end of the world, in any case.
Using thin pieces of stone like this to create a veneer, means the corners are always going to look unnatural. Plus using face bedded stone on its side looks wrong too, but if that floats his boat....
good job
I would love to know how this building does in terms of climate control. It looks built into a hill, with tons of insulation and a lot of mass in that stonework. Does it stay warm in the winter and cool in the summer?
perfect. i love this videothank u
i can see one major problem with this construction, the boards towards the outside will rot and mold and it can be a major health concern
"We Build a Stone House" ,,, and much older than that The Pantheon in Rome, Italy.
I like it. Very easy to understand, i feel like i can do this
Cool
Thanks James. I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Here is another one of my building projects you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html
Buen trabajo amigo, pero se podría mejorar con otra tecnica de trabajo...
One thing what I just simply can not get is why it is so popular in US to use that almost useless power drill instead of handy and light cordless drill ?!?
Because it's much more powerful and doesn't require having batteries charged all the time. Cordless is handy if you're just screwing nails in places. I love my 20V Dewalt system for that, but power drills still have tons of uses, especially high torque and long duration operations like drilling concrete or paddle mixing.
Because some do ore than changing a couple of screws and hanging up pictures. try work when you need a drill for your 12 hour shift. Dumb
specifically, he uses 8" (+) screws, which requires more torque than hanging drywall. At a construction site, the generator is going to be running anyway (either to charge tons of batteries, or to power the tools), may as well use the torque, and git-r-dun quickly. As the others said, there's a place for the cordless, but, if you're using a drill to mix paint, stir compound, run dozens of 8" screws, etc, you can't beat a good ol' 120v craftsman....plus, my corded one is good excercise. the bloomin' thing weighs a ton! :-)
the lime that lasted "1000 years" was sot lime slacked out
@:39 That dog looks fake LOL
it's a video of a photograph, so yeah...looks kinda goofy!
You did a lot of nice work. I'm sorry but my brain has a big problem with all of the stones being different colors and different shapes. Painful to look at.
شيء جميل
use a blow bag, its like a cake decorators bag, tucking is too time consuming
I'll have to try that sometime! Here's a tour of my house you might enjoy: th-cam.com/video/QWKPisywxvY/w-d-xo.html