Matt, your series has been full of amazing and skillful techniques supported by excellent explanation of procedures. I particularly enjoyed the chiropractic movement to correct the alignment of the legs! You are a gifted man!
This series is packed with so many techniques and tips, and all for free! Not questioning your work but I was intrigued as to why you didn’t plane the inside taper and just did the M+T section.
I think he was only working on surfaces that would be difficult to work on once the table is assembled. The tapered sections will be accessible after assembly.
Very nice and so well explained, what we are used from you, very much apreciated. A question on the mat you are using while sanding, what material is this made off? Seems to work great. Thanks and regards.
Another beautiful project and video, thanks for sharing, Matt! Instead of the double-sided tape to fasten a thin piece of wood for planing, I personally prefer the paper tape + superglue trick: stick the paper tape on the bench, do the same on the piece you need to fasten, and then use some superglue on the two strips of paper-tape to glue them together, back-to-back. Not sure my description is clear enough, but this way the wood its secured at the bench as if you used a double-sided tape and you have enough support for planing it. At the same time the paper tape is easier to remove from the wood piece once finished, and it also doesn't leaves residues, as the double-sided tape sometimes do.
Interestingly, from what I know the most common traditional method for fastening a table top was actually pocket holes by far. The hole would be oversized to accommodate movement just not so much that the head of the screw went through the hole. Sliding dovetails were also sometimes used though the examples I've seen were more like small benches and stools than tables. It seems like buttons are a newer technique but I may be ignorant.
Matt, your series has been full of amazing and skillful techniques supported by excellent explanation of procedures. I particularly enjoyed the chiropractic movement to correct the alignment of the legs! You are a gifted man!
This series is packed with so many techniques and tips, and all for free! Not questioning your work but I was intrigued as to why you didn’t plane the inside taper and just did the M+T section.
I think he was only working on surfaces that would be difficult to work on once the table is assembled. The tapered sections will be accessible after assembly.
Matt, your series has been full of amazing and skillful techniques, backed u
merci pour cette géniale vidéo mais trop rapide pour moi. je vais la revoir plusieurs fois au ralenti
Loving this project. Looking forward to seeing the drawer installation.
Another great video in the series. Thank you, sir.
Very nice and so well explained, what we are used from you, very much apreciated. A question on the mat you are using while sanding, what material is this made off? Seems to work great. Thanks and regards.
Another beautiful project and video, thanks for sharing, Matt!
Instead of the double-sided tape to fasten a thin piece of wood for planing, I personally prefer the paper tape + superglue trick: stick the paper tape on the bench, do the same on the piece you need to fasten, and then use some superglue on the two strips of paper-tape to glue them together, back-to-back. Not sure my description is clear enough, but this way the wood its secured at the bench as if you used a double-sided tape and you have enough support for planing it. At the same time the paper tape is easier to remove from the wood piece once finished, and it also doesn't leaves residues, as the double-sided tape sometimes do.
Fantastic series!
Coplaner is the word you were looking for :)
Would you be able to steam that back leg back into shape if you had access to a steam box and some custom clamping jig? Asking for a friend 😜
What plane are you using on your shooting board? I haven't seen one like that before.
Regarding surface finish, would a planed surface only be sufficient? What's the difference brought by a 240 grit sanding? Just out of curiosity
I thought this too. I find planed way smoother from a good blade.
Is 240 grit the recommended surface for Osmo, perhaps ?
@@margaretkrantz1469 could be, still always had very satisfying results with osmo without pushing beyond 180 grit (cuz sanding is a pain)
Interestingly, from what I know the most common traditional method for fastening a table top was actually pocket holes by far. The hole would be oversized to accommodate movement just not so much that the head of the screw went through the hole. Sliding dovetails were also sometimes used though the examples I've seen were more like small benches and stools than tables. It seems like buttons are a newer technique but I may be ignorant.