Yesterday i took off the rear tires to swap out the end links on my 1320. I weighed the stock Nexen's. They weigh about 62 lbs😮, roughly the same as the Hellcat wheel/tires.
@@Scavenger1320 Also (random observation), I noticed the threads on the center spindle stud (whatever it's called😆) seemed to have some rust on them. But surprised since it's a '21 w/less than 7K miles . I will have to figure out how to clean it.
@@1320_ikimasho the suspension parts and especially the upper arms commonly have some rust on them as well, even when brand new and straight from the factory. Doesn’t even matter what time of year they’re built. Mine went through assembly in May/June and still had spots of rust on the suspension parts. These cars and a lot of the parts sit outside and along with being up north in Canada means they see some weather before even getting put together. Even the Demons have been found with some rust on suspension/driveline parts from the factory.
@@Scavenger1320 I'm going to order the Steelman Hub and Rotor Polishing Kit. Hopefully that will get all that rust off. As for the control arms, I noticed that as well. On my Hellcat there is a bit of rust on the lower control arm (probably upper too). I will have to look into how to clean that off and (maybe) apply a rust protectant.
I have 17’s on my Widebody Scatpack Challenger, and as long as you jack it up 1 side at a time and put the jack under the spring area, you don’t need the shorter links. No rubbing
But what happens if the suspension bottoms out? I think that route is fine as a temp solution since the sway bar doesn't hit the wheel when the suspension is loaded, but the shortened links aren't that expensive and why risk damaging the wheel if you happen to go over a pothole or something that causes the suspension to extend out? Might be a rare thing, but again, the links don't cost that much.
@@Scavenger1320 I only use the 17’s when I’m going to the track, or if I know I’m racing someone. I drove around for 2 weeks with them on when I first got them and have had no issues. I may put the shiorter links one of these days, but again… no problems without them 😁
I love sharing things that I've learned. When doing my own research for myself on things like this, I find a lot of vids skip over some details so that you still aren't sure how something is done, so I try to not to do the same. And yeah, I love the look of these wheels. I wish I could just leave them on all the time.
Adding some more useful info for the mob. Jegs SSR Stars 15x4 12lbs Hoosier 18107 front tires 10 lbs. Fit with no issues with TCE front drag brakes. Jegs SSR Star 15x10 19lbs Hoosier 28x10x15 slick 24lbs fit with TCE rear drag brakes or TBM brakes, lots of grinding, aftermarket toe links and sway bar links.
I would love to get 15s but there's a lot more work involved and a whole lot more money lol. I definitely want to get the TBM brake kits one day, maybe if this youtube thing ever takes off lol.
Just ordered a set of Bwoody links so I can switch to 17" wheels. I believe that if you would have done both sides at the same time you wouldn't have to had to jack it up and down to reconnect because the sway bar would be free to move accordingly. Also, are those self locking nuts? If yes, did you use new locking nuts or use locktite on the threads? Lastly, did you use any anti-seize or rubber lube on the ends of the bushing prior to assembly? Thanks Chris!
I had to go back and check that vid because I honestly forgot. But I didn't use any loctite and they didn't look like they were self locking.i didn't use anything on the ends of the bushings either. I just did a straight swap. Whether I should have I don't know, but I haven't noticed any problems yet. And I think you're right about doing both sides at the same time. Someone else mentioned that I think in that vid, I just never thought of it at the time.
@@Scavenger1320 Thanks Chris. I don't do anything to my car without checking your videos, they are a great help! I ended up ordering the BWoody links, and based upon a strong recommendation from Ron Silva, I ordered a pair of Forgestar D5 17x10 wheels and Hoosier 28x10.5-17 Drag Bracket Radials. I already have a Demon setup with the huge Nitto's if I have to have DOT's for an event, or the factory 1320 setup for that matter... BTW, registration just opened up for the annual Route 66 Street Drags; it is on May 19-23, 2023. Only 300 entries allowed and it is always sold out. If you come we have a guest room for you~ Anthony
They balanced no problem with plenty of room for weights. No sensors in any of my drag wheels. What's weird there is I had a tire light in the beginning but now it never comes on.
Cool that you can mount the tires yourself, those Billet Specialties wheels are light. I have the same wheels as you on my Scat and I happen to have an extra set of them which have no tires on them now, I will weigh one when I dig them out to have sticky tires mounted.
Yeah, its nice not having to pay a tire shop to mount them, helps offset the extra cost of the beadlocks. These Billet Specialties are definitely one of the lighter wheels out there. That Mickey Thompson tire though! It's a great tire but they're on the heavy side. I might try out some Hoosiers on the back after I burn through this set of Mickeys. They're supposed to be a lot lighter.
@@Scavenger1320 That's a nice weight savings, I'm having some Continental Extreme Contact Sports mounted, I will compare the stock Pirelli all season tire and wheel to the continental tire and wheel, I believe the continental's are 2 pounds lighter per tire, I'm getting these for Autocross and open track days.
Great video! 🔥 I don’t think for the chargers we need to remove the stock sway bar link, at least I hope haha. I’m looking into get some slicks and racestar wheels myself
Have you had any rubbing issues with your inner fender? I’ve mounted my 17 x 10 weld bead locks (without tires) and the sway bar does touch at top but my bwoodys end links came in the post today. However the wheels look so close to the inner fender, have you had any issues with tire rub?
Because technically it doesn't, that's why I made a separate video of the install. The hood duct of the kit will block the driver's side heat extractor, the headlight tube that comes in it has to be trimmed and you need a different bolt to attach the hood duct to where the heat extractor is. Besides those minor differences it does fit, but amazon can't say that since it doesn't right out of the box with the hardware that comes in it.
@@yjheater yeah, and even then some people don't think it's worth it, but for $150 (I think that's around the cost now), it's not much and at least you get a functioning inner headlight. The T/A kit is nice but without heat-wrapping, it actually heats up the air going through the hood duct plus it's expensive. My main reason for getting it over any other cheaper option is just because I always wanted a car with a truly functional hood scoop lol
Maybe its different on the Chargers? Maybe it's 1320 related? Or maybe depends on the wheel? I'm not sure, but the sway bar definitely hit my wheel without it. It actually prevented the wheel from completely sitting flush against the hub assembly.
@@jeffgray9916 what wheels do you have? Maybe the backspacing or something is different? It took the shorter links for me to get a finger space between em
Hey Chris, do you have the specs on those 17x10 wheels? Backspace, offset, etc? I would like to order the exact same wheels but they are so expensive I want to make sure I get them exactly right. Thank you very much!
The rears I have are 17x10 Single Beadlock with 6.50" Backspacing and 5x115 bolt pattern. If you go to the Billet Specialties website go into wheels/winlites and look for WIN LITE - 17X10" MONOBLOCK DRAG PACK SINGLE BEAD LOCK REAR. Go into the listing and there's a drop down to select the specific vehicle. There's 2 Challenger options but they're actually both the same.
Guess who I’ll be calling when its time to mount my drag setup….@scavenger1320!!!! The attention to detail is unmatched!!! Great Vid!!! #DifferentBreed
You can get the shorter sway bar links without the grease fittings, that’s just a nice extra option, but depending on the wheel you’ll most likely still need shorter links. Some people skip them because the sway bar might only hit the wheel when the suspension is fully extended, but when you’re spending thousands of dollars on wheels why risk damaging them over a hundred dollar part.
You need to do a 15" brake conversion kit. So smaller rotors and calipers. Plus it takes some modification of the end link that'll need to be ground down on the bottom. I'm planning on doing that sometime around early fall.
@@Scavenger1320 I ordered new 20" wheels and street tires for my car and I won't even have the car til july or august . I will wear out the Nexens at the track before I go to 15" I will have all the parts and stuff by that time .
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
Yesterday i took off the rear tires to swap out the end links on my 1320. I weighed the stock Nexen's. They weigh about 62 lbs😮, roughly the same as the Hellcat wheel/tires.
And Dodge calls them “drag wheels” 😆
@@Scavenger1320 Also (random observation), I noticed the threads on the center spindle stud (whatever it's called😆) seemed to have some rust on them. But surprised since it's a '21 w/less than 7K miles . I will have to figure out how to clean it.
@@1320_ikimasho the suspension parts and especially the upper arms commonly have some rust on them as well, even when brand new and straight from the factory. Doesn’t even matter what time of year they’re built. Mine went through assembly in May/June and still had spots of rust on the suspension parts. These cars and a lot of the parts sit outside and along with being up north in Canada means they see some weather before even getting put together. Even the Demons have been found with some rust on suspension/driveline parts from the factory.
@@Scavenger1320 I'm going to order the Steelman Hub and Rotor Polishing Kit. Hopefully that will get all that rust off. As for the control arms, I noticed that as well. On my Hellcat there is a bit of rust on the lower control arm (probably upper too). I will have to look into how to clean that off and (maybe) apply a rust protectant.
@@1320_ikimasho Let me know how that stuff works out for you. I could use some too if it works and might make for a good vid.
It’s better to disconnect both sides first, then install shorter links….no jacking.
I have 17’s on my Widebody Scatpack Challenger, and as long as you jack it up 1 side at a time and put the jack under the spring area, you don’t need the shorter links. No rubbing
But what happens if the suspension bottoms out? I think that route is fine as a temp solution since the sway bar doesn't hit the wheel when the suspension is loaded, but the shortened links aren't that expensive and why risk damaging the wheel if you happen to go over a pothole or something that causes the suspension to extend out? Might be a rare thing, but again, the links don't cost that much.
@@Scavenger1320 I only use the 17’s when I’m going to the track, or if I know I’m racing someone. I drove around for 2 weeks with them on when I first got them and have had no issues. I may put the shiorter links one of these days, but again… no problems without them 😁
Those just look awesome on the car. I like how detailed you went into the installation man. Great work!
I love sharing things that I've learned. When doing my own research for myself on things like this, I find a lot of vids skip over some details so that you still aren't sure how something is done, so I try to not to do the same. And yeah, I love the look of these wheels. I wish I could just leave them on all the time.
@@Scavenger1320 yeah and it shows man! There's no skipping steps in your videos and I love it. Haha that would be cool
much easier to remove both end links then put the new shorter one on .
Adding some more useful info for the mob. Jegs SSR Stars 15x4 12lbs Hoosier 18107 front tires 10 lbs. Fit with no issues with TCE front drag brakes. Jegs SSR Star 15x10 19lbs Hoosier 28x10x15 slick 24lbs fit with TCE rear drag brakes or TBM brakes, lots of grinding, aftermarket toe links and sway bar links.
I would love to get 15s but there's a lot more work involved and a whole lot more money lol. I definitely want to get the TBM brake kits one day, maybe if this youtube thing ever takes off lol.
Can't wait to see how these hook! 👍👍👍
Oh they hooked alright! I finished them the day before the Big Showdown so I was on these when I ran that 11.3 in my other vid.
@@Scavenger1320 Hell yeah that's badass!
Dude amazing video!!!!!
Thanks!
Any plans to do a lightweight brake setup? It’ll really help drop rotational mass getting rid of those thick Brembo rotors
I want to do a 15" conversion on the rear eventually, but it might not happen until next year
Just ordered a set of Bwoody links so I can switch to 17" wheels. I believe that if you would have done both sides at the same time you wouldn't have to had to jack it up and down to reconnect because the sway bar would be free to move accordingly. Also, are those self locking nuts? If yes, did you use new locking nuts or use locktite on the threads? Lastly, did you use any anti-seize or rubber lube on the ends of the bushing prior to assembly? Thanks Chris!
I had to go back and check that vid because I honestly forgot. But I didn't use any loctite and they didn't look like they were self locking.i didn't use anything on the ends of the bushings either. I just did a straight swap. Whether I should have I don't know, but I haven't noticed any problems yet. And I think you're right about doing both sides at the same time. Someone else mentioned that I think in that vid, I just never thought of it at the time.
@@Scavenger1320 Thanks Chris. I don't do anything to my car without checking your videos, they are a great help!
I ended up ordering the BWoody links, and based upon a strong recommendation from Ron Silva, I ordered a pair of Forgestar D5 17x10 wheels and Hoosier 28x10.5-17 Drag Bracket Radials. I already have a Demon setup with the huge Nitto's if I have to have DOT's for an event, or the factory 1320 setup for that matter...
BTW, registration just opened up for the annual Route 66 Street Drags; it is on May 19-23, 2023. Only 300 entries allowed and it is always sold out. If you come we have a guest room for you~ Anthony
Awesome video! How did they balance out? Enough room for the wheel weights? Do you you run TPMS sensors?
They balanced no problem with plenty of room for weights. No sensors in any of my drag wheels. What's weird there is I had a tire light in the beginning but now it never comes on.
Was you speedometer off when driving around on these or are you tuned for these wheels?
I'm not tuned at all, but I only use these on the dragstrip, they don't ever see the street.
Cool that you can mount the tires yourself, those Billet Specialties wheels are light. I have the same wheels as you on my Scat and I happen to have an extra set of them which have no tires on them now, I will weigh one when I dig them out to have sticky tires mounted.
Yeah, its nice not having to pay a tire shop to mount them, helps offset the extra cost of the beadlocks. These Billet Specialties are definitely one of the lighter wheels out there. That Mickey Thompson tire though! It's a great tire but they're on the heavy side. I might try out some Hoosiers on the back after I burn through this set of Mickeys. They're supposed to be a lot lighter.
@@Scavenger1320 I weighed one of my extra stock rims with no tire and it was 27.2 pounds.
@@daytona5.722 about 4 pounds heavier than these win lites. Probably save even more weight with non-beadlocks. Thanks for getting that info!
@@Scavenger1320 That's a nice weight savings, I'm having some Continental Extreme Contact Sports mounted, I will compare the stock Pirelli all season tire and wheel to the continental tire and wheel, I believe the continental's are 2 pounds lighter per tire, I'm getting these for Autocross and open track days.
Great video! 🔥 I don’t think for the chargers we need to remove the stock sway bar link, at least I hope haha. I’m looking into get some slicks and racestar wheels myself
Thanks! You might not need to. CodeNameScat left a comment here saying he didn't have that clearance issue with his Charger.
Have you had any rubbing issues with your inner fender?
I’ve mounted my 17 x 10 weld bead locks (without tires) and the sway bar does touch at top but my bwoodys end links came in the post today.
However the wheels look so close to the inner fender, have you had any issues with tire rub?
No tire rub with mine. It is realllly close though with the 305s.
@@Scavenger1320 that’s comforting to know. I got 305’s also. Thanks for the video.
Maybe I’ll try to make one on it too
Why does when I go to the link on your CAI system it says it won’t fit a 22 or even a 2020 challenger 1320….?
Because technically it doesn't, that's why I made a separate video of the install. The hood duct of the kit will block the driver's side heat extractor, the headlight tube that comes in it has to be trimmed and you need a different bolt to attach the hood duct to where the heat extractor is. Besides those minor differences it does fit, but amazon can't say that since it doesn't right out of the box with the hardware that comes in it.
@@Scavenger1320 ok gotcha. I seen where you think bang for the buck the hellcat lower with intake tube will be ok..?
@@yjheater yeah, and even then some people don't think it's worth it, but for $150 (I think that's around the cost now), it's not much and at least you get a functioning inner headlight. The T/A kit is nice but without heat-wrapping, it actually heats up the air going through the hood duct plus it's expensive. My main reason for getting it over any other cheaper option is just because I always wanted a car with a truly functional hood scoop lol
👍🏼
I don’t understand everyone does this with the sway bar end link but mine never had that problem
Maybe its different on the Chargers? Maybe it's 1320 related? Or maybe depends on the wheel? I'm not sure, but the sway bar definitely hit my wheel without it. It actually prevented the wheel from completely sitting flush against the hub assembly.
@@Scavenger1320 dang that’s wild man
I run 17’s on my 1320 and have a finger space between the wheel and sway bar 🤷♂️
@@jeffgray9916 what wheels do you have? Maybe the backspacing or something is different? It took the shorter links for me to get a finger space between em
same me neither i always tell ppl you don’t but i have 15s now so everything’s different
Hey Chris, do you have the specs on those 17x10 wheels? Backspace, offset, etc? I would like to order the exact same wheels but they are so expensive I want to make sure I get them exactly right. Thank you very much!
The rears I have are 17x10 Single Beadlock with 6.50" Backspacing and 5x115 bolt pattern. If you go to the Billet Specialties website go into wheels/winlites and look for WIN LITE - 17X10" MONOBLOCK DRAG PACK SINGLE BEAD LOCK REAR. Go into the listing and there's a drop down to select the specific vehicle. There's 2 Challenger options but they're actually both the same.
@@Scavenger1320 Thank you!
Guess who I’ll be calling when its time to mount my drag setup….@scavenger1320!!!! The attention to detail is unmatched!!! Great Vid!!! #DifferentBreed
You know I'm always ready to help if I can!
Side I like your style man. Keep it up. You got an ig ?
I appreciate it! and yes I do. Scavenger1320 on there too.
If you disconnect both endlinks you won't need to jack the suspension.
Do you have to buy the grease fittings, or can you use the stock ones
You can get the shorter sway bar links without the grease fittings, that’s just a nice extra option, but depending on the wheel you’ll most likely still need shorter links. Some people skip them because the sway bar might only hit the wheel when the suspension is fully extended, but when you’re spending thousands of dollars on wheels why risk damaging them over a hundred dollar part.
Do I need to get shorter links if I’m going 18x10
No, I don't think so, they should fit fine
Are you using wheel locks?
No. Just the stock open-ended lugs on these rears
what does it take to get 15" wheels on it ?
You need to do a 15" brake conversion kit. So smaller rotors and calipers. Plus it takes some modification of the end link that'll need to be ground down on the bottom. I'm planning on doing that sometime around early fall.
@@Scavenger1320 I ordered new 20" wheels and street tires for my car and I won't even have the car til july or august . I will wear out the Nexens at the track before I go to 15" I will have all the parts and stuff by that time .
great information video ty sir
Thanks for the support!
🔥🔥🔥💯💯😏😏😏😏😏