UPDATE: went to revist this after neutral safety switch was replaced and on further review cam sensor behind engine was bringing down 12v to crank sensor, unplugged it and truck started up
@@titofuentez2340 When output from the PCM is shorted to ground, the PCM may protect itself by shutting down that circuit which will make it appear to have no output. Even if it doesn't shut down, a dead short to ground will drag the output down so you don't see 12V. Usually in that situation the pcm has upstream current limiting resistors to prevent overcurrent. So, before jumping to conclusions you need to disconnect the downstream wire it goes to, then erase any codes, then recheck to see if the PCM can now produce that 12V.
Having a similar issue. Crank no start. No constant 12volt on injector and ignition coils. I don't see the RPM go up when cranking. Volts are good on Can high and low. But oddly I see 120ohms on the can lines. (should be seeing two EOL resistors at 60ohms.) engine cranks once and won't crank again until 15 second timer shuts head lights off, then I can crank it again. I was thinking it might be the security.
UPDATE: went to revist this after neutral safety switch was replaced and on further review cam sensor behind engine was bringing down 12v to crank sensor, unplugged it and truck started up
bro you said it was pcm, neutral safety switch now its the crank sensor which one is it
@@titofuentez2340 When output from the PCM is shorted to ground, the PCM may protect itself by shutting down that circuit which will make it appear to have no output. Even if it doesn't shut down, a dead short to ground will drag the output down so you don't see 12V. Usually in that situation the pcm has upstream current limiting resistors to prevent overcurrent. So, before jumping to conclusions you need to disconnect the downstream wire it goes to, then erase any codes, then recheck to see if the PCM can now produce that 12V.
Having a similar issue. Crank no start. No constant 12volt on injector and ignition coils. I don't see the RPM go up when cranking. Volts are good on Can high and low. But oddly I see 120ohms on the can lines. (should be seeing two EOL resistors at 60ohms.) engine cranks once and won't crank again until 15 second timer shuts head lights off, then I can crank it again. I was thinking it might be the security.
if you are getting 120 on the can lines, there could be a problem with your physical wires and that needs to be troubleshooted first
So 87 and 30 will jump start relay?
yes watch the video completly
So what was the problem bro
Answer is pinned in comments..
Which answer you said 3 different things. What a waste of
starter relay
The car you’re driving is not the same car you were fixing at all
thats an observation