CINE EI was weird for me at first....then I understood it compeltely. Its to keep you at Base ISO, and you just lower the ISO with the s709 LUT "ON" to see what your shot will look like once you lower your exposure in post (but youre shooting at BASE ISO, regardless of what the EI is and what your monitor shows). People say that hate it, but I love using it. Especially if i monitor myself with Monitor and Control app because you can change your exposure index and apply s709 on the app (which is awesome). Only thing that sucks is you cannot use this if you record to your Atomos Ninja. If I am behind the camera, I actually just use the Alester Chapman -2 stops offset exposure "Venice" luts both in camera and one he made for the Ninja and its amazing. I just dont even check the multimeter or waveforms anymore. If it looks good on the monitor? I KNOW its gonna look amazing in post. Also....lets get this man to 30k subs please!!
thanks! I ended up making my own, and all though metering is a great start, I personally prefer false colour with my CINE Ei :D ahaha so close, 2 more!
Can you tell me if this is correct? You only have 2 Base ISOs that you can choose from in Cine EI. When changing the EI values in your camera you're not actually changing anything with the exposure of your real image file... it only changes how you see the image in your monitor. The reason to adjust your EI values are only for you to see how to adjust the exposure through lighting, ND, or Aperture, So if you want clean shadows you lower your EI value. This darkens the scene in your monitor and you realize you need to bring in more lights for your subject to be properly exposed because everything has gotten darker. Then when you bring this footage into your grading software all looks overexposed. But you'll just bring down the exposure to correctly expose your subject and your shadows will be clean! Is this correct?
awesome video/tutorial man! Really convincing me that the fx30 is a great camera all around and it really comes down to understanding how to use it properly.
Thank you or clarifying Cine EI. I've been using my two FX30s on paid jobs for the last 3 weeks and really didn't understand the purpose of Cine EI and was forced to stick with Flexible ISO. The penny dropped however when I realised that while EI values looked just like ISO values on the camera's LCD they were not ISO values at all; in fact with Cine EI, the two native base ISOs were represented by the letters L and H because there are no other ISO values available under Cine EI. I think a lot of people are falling under that same missconception because the EI numbering system uses the same values as ISO (I'm sure there's a reason for that). If EI used numbers in the tens instead of hundreds and thousands it would be less confusing. Anyhow, based on that, if you use Flexible ISO, and stick with just the two native ISO values of 800 and 2500, wouldn't that be the same as using Cine EI or are there other benefits?
I still don’t get it 😅 By changing your EI value you don’t change your exposure. So what are you changing then besides the “brightness “ of your camera monitor?
sounds complicated but it is kind of simple i think maybe im wrong haha, cine ei lets you over or underexpose your image to favour highlights or shadows, so it only lets you know the latitude you have to not ruin your image, it could be said for example that even you shot your image at 800iso (base) your giving kind of the equivalent of a 400iso image for example in post by moving your exposure but it ends up cleaner in the areas you want, than if actually was shot at 400iso in camera?
Hey Kofi, we are new to the FX3 and FX30, and we plan to shoot for a client with these two cameras. We need two cameras on the shoot. I understand with your video that the CINE EI on the FX30 is not exactly similar as the one on the FX3? It’s so overwhelming for us beginners in slog 3. Also I’ve watch 100 videos about CINE EI and I still don’t understand what’s the point of changing the EI (200/400/800 etc) if you won’t have the change on your final image?! I mean, why??? Isn’t that all the point of recording a video 😂 please someone explain.
In a low light environment, should we be using the higher 2500, or lower 800 of the base ISOs? And once we do, we lower the EI to focus on on the shadow details?
So basically… I overexpose while on the base ISOs. Cine EI functions as a reference for when I go to post and turn it down by the amount of stops I chose?
Thanks , great video. Just to confirm if we are only using just the FX30 camera monitor with the preview (not baked in) Rec709 Lut installed, we set the Zebra to 44 IRE though. 41 if only viewing directly S-log?
Hey bubba, so let’s say I’m outside in daylight, I’m using base 800 & my EI value to 200, do I still mess with the iris and nd filter to get it to +1.7 2.0?? I’ve watched your video 5 times now I think I’m slowly getting it lol, I wanna learn all this before buying the fx30
I just discovered you a few weeks ago and I’m loving your Content… keep it coming! So I have a question and it may seem dumb and although I am not new to filming or using slog3, I’m still a bit confused, even after this video, about exposure, and ISO values for Cine EI. You and others have said that changing the ISO values doesn’t change anything as far as what’s “baked in“ to your file, yet you’re saying that changing your ISO value higher or lower, will help either your highlights or shadows. This is what confuses me. Does changing the ISO value change what’s “baked in“ or doesn’t it? Does this make sense?
changing your CINE EI values on their own wont change anything , your Cine EI and your ISO are totally different, ie you can have 400EI and 800ISO at the same time, if I go 200EI, 1600EI at 800ISO , nothing happens , UNLESS you adjust your shutter/apeture/etc to expose for that value
@@andrewscot5204 lol! Well what I understand is the following. Changing the ei values will only change how the image is viewed in the monitor. Which will therefore force you to adjust how you expose the shot using aperture/shutter/iso. I have no idea if this is the case, I would definitely need to run some tests first to confirm I’m thinking about this correctly. 😅
Thanks for this video! If I’m in a low light situation and ei 2500 isn’t enough to get my mm to +1.3 or 1.7, what are my options for the cleanest possible image? I’m using Fx30
So Cine EI is the reverse of ISO? By lowering my Cine EI value just below 800 or 2500 on my Fx30 it makes the display darker but I am somehow doing the reverse and bringing up the exposure hence cleaner shadows? I am even more confused after watching the video. Moving my ISO dial only changes my EI value so the video confused me by saying 2500 ISO at 4000 EI value. If EI value doesnt bake anything into the video and is just a guide like focus peaking, why did it create more noise? So many questions so confused!
Would aiming to keeping it at ISO 800 & 2500 in flexible ISO mode be the same thing? Also do you color grade your footage in Premiere Pro or Davinci Resolve?
great content and substantial informations. futher, I ws wondering why there's much more green colour while using cineEI than using regular flexible ISO?
@@KofiYeboah sry, I didn’t make it clear . I’ve been using my Fx30 a few days. I found acolour difference when switching between flexible ISO mode and cine Ei mode.Ty! I’m sure whether it’s a malfunction on my machine.
Thank you very much for your beautiful and informative video. I have the Sony FX30 and I don't want to edit the color on my computer because it eats up my time. I want to edit my video with the original colors produced by the camera with Luts. I mostly use picture profile 3. Please tell me if there is a reason to use Cine El or S log 3 or they are useless to me since I don't edit colors on the computer. Thank you very much!!
@@KofiYeboah I have been a filmmaker for forty years. I have worked with Arriflex 235 35mm film camera. In the old days we corrected the exposure with the aperture and the speed, or by lighting our subject, trying to balance the lighting. And our shots were all coming out right. We had no tolerance for dynamic rage. This is what I still try to do today with modern cameras. For example, if I have a person in the shadow and behind him there is some overlit subject, I simply illuminate the person with a reflector. This way I never had overexposed or underexposed shots. And in the old days we always tried to get the right shot so as not to waste money on the film processing labs which cost too much!! Anyway, thank you very much for the explanation you gave me.
Hi Kofi, thanks for this video. On 0:47 you showed us the screen of the fx30. In which vodec do you film? I can only set 24 fps in the DCI-4K Codec. Otherwise I have to arrange with 23,98 ect.
I am curious on how to use catalyst browse to how to adjust ISO to get the right exposure in running gun situations. I do not want to manually change the exposure but instead access the metadata. I’m guessing this is possible. Can you make a video on that. Explaining the workflow? I’m guessing we will see a better picture quality doing it this way instead of using flexible ISO in camera. 🤔
That’s not how catalysts browse works , you can use it to convert your EI exposed log footage to rec.709 and prep it that way , but also I almost never use it , I’d feel slightly like I’m lying if I pretended I did all the time , then again Cine ei isn’t going to fix picture quality (directly) but a better exposed image will likely look better than one that isnt
Thank you for the great info. I just picked up my camera. Going to look at all your videos but the first day of what memory card do you use to get 120 frames per second.
Great info! BTW You want to get that blown up look without actually blowing up your highlights, higher than base ISO ie are very useful. It lets you determine in post how much detail you want in that background
@@KofiYeboah Yeah out of the many videos I've watched on this subject, this may have helped the most. Especially the info about not shooting with a higher EI than the current base ISO.. Makes a lot of sense.
So cine ei IS A GUIDE, and at the same time it works AS IF THE CAMERA HAS NO OTHER ISO, only 800 & 2500. All we have to do, is to UNDEREXPOSURE the CINE, (eg 400ei, with base iso 800, never using higher values than 800 or 2500) and AT THE SAME TIME, keep in mind that the exposure must be somewhere between +0.7 ~ +1.7. And the only "tools" we have to achieve this are: shutter, aperture and ND. Have I understood correctly?
Pretty much! You have the jist of how to start using it ! If you can I'd try my best to expose for middle grey ratehr than the metering, as metering if set to multi , you might have varied results
I do not understand, why should we go to lower ISO than the base iso, if it doesn't change the image? Cine ei is 800 or 2500. That only changes on the camera screen, not the final image right?
New subscriber here and I think I heard you are in Toronto, COOL! I'm coming from a Blackmagic background so its normal for me to lower the ISO from the base if I want to get more juice in the shadows when I don't have anything that is bright in the scene, like moody interiors. When I'm outside, I typically raise the ISO above the base a bit for more details in the sky and such. ANYWAY, This is what I'm still trying to wrap my head around with Sony (new FX30 user). Is Cine EI just a safety net for people that don't quite know how they shift their dynamic range when adjusting the ISO above or below base values? In other words, is Flexible ISO working the same way I'm used to (lower ISO values = more dynamic range in the shadows and higher ISO values = more dynamic range in the highlights? THEN you don't have to adjust your exposure in post, you have already decided the best ISO for the scene and exposed for it in camera? Is that right? THANKS!!
Sort of! But even easier than that because it’s just the ISOs at 800 and 12,800, you’re essentially moving around the 15 stops via your aputure, nd and lighting to get the most DR possible and cleaner image
@@KofiYeboah It’s really interesting! I’ll have to do my own testing. 90% of the time I’m only using my lights to adjust exposure because I’ll have a shutter locked in and an aperture setting I don’t want to stray from and the ISO of course, picked based where I want to shift my range around middle gray. I’m not using ND in this scenario where I’m indoors. So yeah, if lowering your ISO shifts the stops of DR to favour the low end more, and you don’t use Cine EI as an exposure guide but you use Flexible ISO as an actual real dynamic range adjustment and expose to that properly in camera, you’d think that it’s the best way. If 800 iso gives you the most range above and below middle gray but you know you don’t need anywhere near that amount above, it makes sense to me to lower the ISO and expose to that rather then shoot at an iso that you know doesn’t favour your exact scene then you left yourself with post production work to properly expose and if I’m not colouring myself, this is an extra step I need to worry about making a note. This is where it gets dicey for me about Sony. When it comes to the next gain stage/base ISO for the high (2500), this is the point it switches. So it’s already the lowest ISO for the second base. See, for Blackmagic pocket 6k the base ISO values are 400 and 3200 but it actually switches to the second gain stage at 1250. So when I start at 3200 and I want more range in the shadows, I lower my base ISO towards 1250 but in the case with Sony, you can’t lower the value from 2500 or you enter the first gain stage again. It’s these little differences I’m trying to wrap my head around haha. So for Sony, maybe 800 iso really is the cleanest in the lows and the only way to get the best image is to stay at 800 and use Cine EI to expose and adjust in post but I need to know the way Sony works is that 800 really is the best for dark shots and you need to raise exposure in post production OR if you really do lower the noise floor by reducing the ISO in camera with flexible.
M.M is multimeter, where it takes the average of what’s in your frame and spits out an exposure between -2 and +2, traditionally log footage you want to be a bit over exposed ( when it’s + numbers on your MM) and between 1.3 and 1.7 is fine most of the time, however the multi meter sometimes doesn’t tell the whole story, so I do suggest using something like zebras in camera or false colour on a monitor
I thought I understood CineEI but I'm less sure now. So just to clarify - if 800 ISO isn't bright enough, I should go to 12800 ISO (on my FX3) and use ND to bring it down?
Only if 12,800 is blowing out your image , nd is just used to bring things back in since you have 2 choices 800 might be too low ,12,800 might be too high, you’re better off bringing over exposure down, than under , up so 12,800 with nd could work
new sub here… still struggling with cine ei (fx3). wud love to see bts in low light situation (e.g. reception) and order of operations to achieving proper exposure. do you have any tutorials like this? or perhaps plug another channel that does? in meantime, appreciate your content! thx -colton 🤟🏼
apprécier le soutien!!! Cine Ei est difficile du comprende, mais avec Le practice, ce sera facile ✌🏾 (I only know a small bit of quebecois French lol!)
Please help me. When I record videos in the sony fx30 they are clear on the camera , but once they go on my laptop, they are grey. What am I doing wrong?
@Kofi Yeboah hey thanks for your quick reply, new sub here .I even had to look for you on insta. Lol. Let me check it out. One last question please. Is it better to shoot with log off especially for someone like me who has no much ideas about cameras?
@@homewithgarbiejoan log shooting is as good as your ability and desire to want to edit it , it is the better profile, but that’s useless if you can’t use it
I’m still super confused! Have a shoot in a few days using an FX6 and an FX30. So I’ll try clarify… I’m shooting with Cine EI using a base iso of 800. I never realised I could adjust an EI setting as I always thought EI and exposure were the same thing. But now I realise that’s not the case. Adjusting Cine EI will only change what I see on my Sony monitor not my Ninja V, in that way it’s a bit like a monitoring LUT. It shows me what my footage COULD look like not what is actually being recorded. I still do t quite get the point of it then. Can I not just apply a LUT on my monitor and adjust ND or F stops based on exposure from that? I also find the whole thing confusing about having a larger EI than base ISO. If it’s just a way to monitor exposure then why is it effecting my image? Or does it only affect it if I expose my image based on what I’m seeing on my little Sony monitor?
I've seen your videos on the fx6 as well, and I'm also someone who after using the Komodo went to Sony. So my question is, is the fx6 worth the extra money over the fx30 or even the fx3 because I need an A cam and thinking either fx3 or fx6.
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I am new to the FX30 and filming at all. Great video. It helps a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
CINE EI was weird for me at first....then I understood it compeltely. Its to keep you at Base ISO, and you just lower the ISO with the s709 LUT "ON" to see what your shot will look like once you lower your exposure in post (but youre shooting at BASE ISO, regardless of what the EI is and what your monitor shows). People say that hate it, but I love using it. Especially if i monitor myself with Monitor and Control app because you can change your exposure index and apply s709 on the app (which is awesome). Only thing that sucks is you cannot use this if you record to your Atomos Ninja. If I am behind the camera, I actually just use the Alester Chapman -2 stops offset exposure "Venice" luts both in camera and one he made for the Ninja and its amazing. I just dont even check the multimeter or waveforms anymore. If it looks good on the monitor? I KNOW its gonna look amazing in post.
Also....lets get this man to 30k subs please!!
thanks! I ended up making my own, and all though metering is a great start, I personally prefer false colour with my CINE Ei :D
ahaha so close, 2 more!
Can you tell me if this is correct? You only have 2 Base ISOs that you can choose from in Cine EI. When changing the EI values in your camera you're not actually changing anything with the exposure of your real image file... it only changes how you see the image in your monitor. The reason to adjust your EI values are only for you to see how to adjust the exposure through lighting, ND, or Aperture, So if you want clean shadows you lower your EI value. This darkens the scene in your monitor and you realize you need to bring in more lights for your subject to be properly exposed because everything has gotten darker. Then when you bring this footage into your grading software all looks overexposed. But you'll just bring down the exposure to correctly expose your subject and your shadows will be clean! Is this correct?
awesome video/tutorial man! Really convincing me that the fx30 is a great camera all around and it really comes down to understanding how to use it properly.
It’s incredibly powerful if used properly
Thank you or clarifying Cine EI. I've been using my two FX30s on paid jobs for the last 3 weeks and really didn't understand the purpose of Cine EI and was forced to stick with Flexible ISO. The penny dropped however when I realised that while EI values looked just like ISO values on the camera's LCD they were not ISO values at all; in fact with Cine EI, the two native base ISOs were represented by the letters L and H because there are no other ISO values available under Cine EI. I think a lot of people are falling under that same missconception because the EI numbering system uses the same values as ISO (I'm sure there's a reason for that). If EI used numbers in the tens instead of hundreds and thousands it would be less confusing. Anyhow, based on that, if you use Flexible ISO, and stick with just the two native ISO values of 800 and 2500, wouldn't that be the same as using Cine EI or are there other benefits?
Wait what?! Can you explain more about the number of the EI? I’m about to never use this mode with my new cameras
thank you so much for this video i came from
Stefano Lombardo channel
I just found out he linked that 🙏🏾
I still don’t get it 😅 By changing your EI value you don’t change your exposure. So what are you changing then besides the “brightness “ of your camera monitor?
Just picked up the FX30! Really about to step up the game on my content
congratulations!
Very close to getting the fx30. EI exposure theory sounds very similar to exposing for BRaw. But I was this camera had false colour.
I just use a monitor tbh
youve become my go to for all things fx30
Now I must deliver 🙏🏾🙏🏾
Thanks Kofi! Just curious what lens did you use for the girl on the couch? Looks great!
the Sony 20mm f1.8!
Thank you man!
No problem!
sounds complicated but it is kind of simple i think maybe im wrong haha, cine ei lets you over or underexpose your image to favour highlights or shadows, so it only lets you know the latitude you have to not ruin your image, it could be said for example that even you shot your image at 800iso (base) your giving kind of the equivalent of a 400iso image for example in post by moving your exposure but it ends up cleaner in the areas you want, than if actually was shot at 400iso in camera?
Sorta on the right track yeah?
Yo this video is amazing! explained it all so clearly and then showed us the practical applications! thx
Thanks!!
Dude this video is a lifesaver. Thank you so much man. I love your content!
Thank you 🙏🏾 I appreciate it 💯
Oh, you just flat-out gave the juice! Appreciate the video and insight.
🙌🏾 bless you brother
How you doing? What are the cleanest or usable isos for Scinetone in the FX 30?
More so over the base limits of 100-400, what are the highest isos that are safe?
Hey Kofi, we are new to the FX3 and FX30, and we plan to shoot for a client with these two cameras. We need two cameras on the shoot. I understand with your video that the CINE EI on the FX30 is not exactly similar as the one on the FX3? It’s so overwhelming for us beginners in slog 3. Also I’ve watch 100 videos about CINE EI and I still don’t understand what’s the point of changing the EI (200/400/800 etc) if you won’t have the change on your final image?! I mean, why??? Isn’t that all the point of recording a video 😂 please someone explain.
Great video! Very informative, was kinda confused on cine ei and definitely feel confident after watching this!
That’s great!!🙏🏾
In a low light environment, should we be using the higher 2500, or lower 800 of the base ISOs? And once we do, we lower the EI to focus on on the shadow details?
ideally, don't shoot in the pitch black ( check any of 3 low light videos), 2500 Iso works in a pinch, but adjust expectations on noise level!
So basically… I overexpose while on the base ISOs. Cine EI functions as a reference for when I go to post and turn it down by the amount of stops I chose?
Yup pretty much 👍🏾
Thanks , great video. Just to confirm if we are only using just the FX30 camera monitor with the preview (not baked in) Rec709 Lut installed, we set the Zebra to 44 IRE though. 41 if only viewing directly S-log?
pretty much ! thats your regular exposure you can also use 66% on white I believe
Just Camre across this Channel today - 🔥 Content 💪
Thanks !!🙏🏾✊🏾
Hey bubba, so let’s say I’m outside in daylight, I’m using base 800 & my EI value to 200, do I still mess with the iris and nd filter to get it to +1.7 2.0?? I’ve watched your video 5 times now I think I’m slowly getting it lol, I wanna learn all this before buying the fx30
I just discovered you a few weeks ago and I’m loving your Content… keep it coming!
So I have a question and it may seem dumb and although I am not new to filming or using slog3, I’m still a bit confused, even after this video, about exposure, and ISO values for Cine EI.
You and others have said that changing the ISO values doesn’t change anything as far as what’s “baked in“ to your file, yet you’re saying that changing your ISO value higher or lower, will help either your highlights or shadows. This is what confuses me. Does changing the ISO value change what’s “baked in“ or doesn’t it? Does this make sense?
changing your CINE EI values on their own wont change anything , your Cine EI and your ISO are totally different, ie you can have 400EI and 800ISO at the same time, if I go 200EI, 1600EI at 800ISO , nothing happens , UNLESS you adjust your shutter/apeture/etc to expose for that value
I had the same question lol 😅… but i think I understand now. I need to run some test to ensure I did though
@@luisedtr07 that’s good to hear… I’m still confused… 😂😂
@@andrewscot5204 lol! Well what I understand is the following. Changing the ei values will only change how the image is viewed in the monitor. Which will therefore force you to adjust how you expose the shot using aperture/shutter/iso. I have no idea if this is the case, I would definitely need to run some tests first to confirm I’m thinking about this correctly. 😅
@@luisedtr07 😂 best of luck my friend!
just bought fx30 and new to cine ei, very helpful on practical level on how to start exposing it properly without overwhelming info.
I tried to make it digestible haha , thanks !
@@KofiYeboah hey man thanks for explaining Cine ei again good job..
@@KofiYeboah do u still have the red Komodo
@@Sweatmonkey316 no that was just a month rental while my fx6 was away
@@KofiYeboah okay thanks which u think is better Fx3 or red Komodo?
Very helpful! Thanks bro 👊
No problem !
Thanks for this video! If I’m in a low light situation and ei 2500 isn’t enough to get my mm to +1.3 or 1.7, what are my options for the cleanest possible image? I’m using Fx30
Use lights 👍🏾
So Cine EI is the reverse of ISO? By lowering my Cine EI value just below 800 or 2500 on my Fx30 it makes the display darker but I am somehow doing the reverse and bringing up the exposure hence cleaner shadows? I am even more confused after watching the video. Moving my ISO dial only changes my EI value so the video confused me by saying 2500 ISO at 4000 EI value. If EI value doesnt bake anything into the video and is just a guide like focus peaking, why did it create more noise? So many questions so confused!
No no it’s like a preview of the DR your iso can get you to 😊 it’s just a preview to expose for certain parts
Did you shoot this video on the fx30 bro?
Most of it!
@@KofiYeboah looks so much better then my footage, I have the r6 but just got the fx30 cause the r6 overheats. Do you have a grading course?
Very cool ! Thank you for sharing !
Thank you!🙏🏾👊🏾
Keep it coming Fam.
Course I will!
dang man tell it
okay I kind of get it, but this is mostly for controlled environments right not the best for weddings events etc?
It depends on your comfort level, I use it all the time
Would aiming to keeping it at ISO 800 & 2500 in flexible ISO mode be the same thing? Also do you color grade your footage in Premiere Pro or Davinci Resolve?
A life saver, great info. Thank you. 👍
No worries n
Great video!
Thanks !!
great content and substantial informations. futher, I ws wondering why there's much more green colour while using cineEI than using regular flexible ISO?
That’s the ND 😅
@@KofiYeboah sry, I didn’t make it clear . I’ve been using my Fx30 a few days. I found acolour difference when switching between flexible ISO mode and cine Ei mode.Ty! I’m sure whether it’s a malfunction on my machine.
@@chaochewei6213 OOOOH
I’ve never had that I thought you just meant my footage , that is weird
@@KofiYeboah Tysm!
Thank you very much for your beautiful and informative video. I have the Sony FX30 and I don't want to edit the color on my computer because it eats up my time. I want to edit my video with the original colors produced by the camera with Luts. I mostly use picture profile 3. Please tell me if there is a reason to use Cine El or S log 3 or they are useless to me since I don't edit colors on the computer. Thank you very much!!
Cine ei is an exposure tool, not a color one! If you want to imbed luts into footage , awesome!
@@KofiYeboah I have been a filmmaker for forty years. I have worked with Arriflex 235 35mm film camera. In the old days we corrected the exposure with the aperture and the speed, or by lighting our subject, trying to balance the lighting. And our shots were all coming out right. We had no tolerance for dynamic rage. This is what I still try to do today with modern cameras. For example, if I have a person in the shadow and behind him there is some overlit subject, I simply illuminate the person with a reflector. This way I never had overexposed or underexposed shots. And in the old days we always tried to get the right shot so as not to waste money on the film processing labs which cost too much!! Anyway, thank you very much for the explanation you gave me.
I still don´t get why should i overexpose to +1.3 or +1.7. Someone help pls?
Most log profiles have better information in the highlights vs shadows
Hi Kofi, thanks for this video. On 0:47 you showed us the screen of the fx30. In which vodec do you film? I can only set 24 fps in the DCI-4K Codec. Otherwise I have to arrange with 23,98 ect.
This was before the firmware update so I’m just in 16:9
I am curious on how to use catalyst browse to how to adjust ISO to get the right exposure in running gun situations. I do not want to manually change the exposure but instead access the metadata.
I’m guessing this is possible. Can you make a video on that. Explaining the workflow?
I’m guessing we will see a better picture quality doing it this way instead of using flexible ISO in camera. 🤔
That’s not how catalysts browse works , you can use it to convert your EI exposed log footage to rec.709 and prep it that way , but also I almost never use it , I’d feel slightly like I’m lying if I pretended I did all the time , then again Cine ei isn’t going to fix picture quality (directly) but a better exposed image will likely look better than one that isnt
Thank you for the great info. I just picked up my camera. Going to look at all your videos but the first day of what memory card do you use to get 120 frames per second.
That’s in a video for literally 36 hours from now 😂
@@KofiYeboah that’s cool I’ll wait for that one 👍🏼
When you're changing the EI amount at the bottom of the viewer, what setting are you changing? The ISO or the aperture?
Neither , the iso doesn’t change with Ei , but you can readjust exposure using aperture, ND or lighting
@@KofiYeboah Thank you!
Great info! BTW You want to get that blown up look without actually blowing up your highlights, higher than base ISO ie are very useful. It lets you determine in post how much detail you want in that background
Hard part is that shadow noise esp on an apsc sensor could get dodgy when you go above the base iso 🥲
Great practical info.. 🙏🏽💜
I hope so 🙏🏾🫡
@@KofiYeboah Yeah out of the many videos I've watched on this subject, this may have helped the most. Especially the info about not shooting with a higher EI than the current base ISO.. Makes a lot of sense.
Hi Kofi. Would you mind explaining what Cine EI Quick is?
Kinda both , like it’s still 800/2500, but as you jump up past 3200 ei, it’ll automatically go to the second high base iso
@@KofiYeboah Thank you!
@@KofiYeboah Thank you for the explanation ^_^
So cine ei IS A GUIDE, and at the same time it works AS IF THE CAMERA HAS NO OTHER ISO, only 800 & 2500.
All we have to do, is to UNDEREXPOSURE the CINE, (eg 400ei, with base iso 800, never using higher values than 800 or 2500) and AT THE SAME TIME, keep in mind that the exposure must be somewhere between +0.7 ~ +1.7.
And the only "tools" we have to achieve this are: shutter, aperture and ND. Have I understood correctly?
Pretty much! You have the jist of how to start using it ! If you can I'd try my best to expose for middle grey ratehr than the metering, as metering if set to multi , you might have varied results
@@KofiYeboah Thank you 😊. I need more practice !!
I do not understand, why should we go to lower ISO than the base iso, if it doesn't change the image? Cine ei is 800 or 2500. That only changes on the camera screen, not the final image right?
Try watching it again , I have a second Cine ei video too that might help
New subscriber here and I think I heard you are in Toronto, COOL! I'm coming from a Blackmagic background so its normal for me to lower the ISO from the base if I want to get more juice in the shadows when I don't have anything that is bright in the scene, like moody interiors. When I'm outside, I typically raise the ISO above the base a bit for more details in the sky and such. ANYWAY, This is what I'm still trying to wrap my head around with Sony (new FX30 user). Is Cine EI just a safety net for people that don't quite know how they shift their dynamic range when adjusting the ISO above or below base values? In other words, is Flexible ISO working the same way I'm used to (lower ISO values = more dynamic range in the shadows and higher ISO values = more dynamic range in the highlights? THEN you don't have to adjust your exposure in post, you have already decided the best ISO for the scene and exposed for it in camera? Is that right? THANKS!!
Sort of! But even easier than that because it’s just the ISOs at 800 and 12,800, you’re essentially moving around the 15 stops via your aputure, nd and lighting to get the most DR possible and cleaner image
@@KofiYeboah It’s really interesting! I’ll have to do my own testing. 90% of the time I’m only using my lights to adjust exposure because I’ll have a shutter locked in and an aperture setting I don’t want to stray from and the ISO of course, picked based where I want to shift my range around middle gray. I’m not using ND in this scenario where I’m indoors.
So yeah, if lowering your ISO shifts the stops of DR to favour the low end more, and you don’t use Cine EI as an exposure guide but you use Flexible ISO as an actual real dynamic range adjustment and expose to that properly in camera, you’d think that it’s the best way.
If 800 iso gives you the most range above and below middle gray but you know you don’t need anywhere near that amount above, it makes sense to me to lower the ISO and expose to that rather then shoot at an iso that you know doesn’t favour your exact scene then you left yourself with post production work to properly expose and if I’m not colouring myself, this is an extra step I need to worry about making a note.
This is where it gets dicey for me about Sony. When it comes to the next gain stage/base ISO for the high (2500), this is the point it switches. So it’s already the lowest ISO for the second base. See, for Blackmagic pocket 6k the base ISO values are 400 and 3200 but it actually switches to the second gain stage at 1250. So when I start at 3200 and I want more range in the shadows, I lower my base ISO towards 1250 but in the case with Sony, you can’t lower the value from 2500 or you enter the first gain stage again.
It’s these little differences I’m trying to wrap my head around haha. So for Sony, maybe 800 iso really is the cleanest in the lows and the only way to get the best image is to stay at 800 and use Cine EI to expose and adjust in post but I need to know the way Sony works is that 800 really is the best for dark shots and you need to raise exposure in post production OR if you really do lower the noise floor by reducing the ISO in camera with flexible.
thank you for the knowledge Kofi
You’re welcome !
What is the M.M. function of the FX30 for ? You said to have the value at +1.3 to +1.7, but when would the +1.3 useful and when would +1.7 be useful ?
M.M is multimeter, where it takes the average of what’s in your frame and spits out an exposure between -2 and +2, traditionally log footage you want to be a bit over exposed ( when it’s + numbers on your MM) and between 1.3 and 1.7 is fine most of the time, however the multi meter sometimes doesn’t tell the whole story, so I do suggest using something like zebras in camera or false colour on a monitor
@@KofiYeboah Okay, thank you so much.
Thank you for your time….great content and new subscriber.
Thanks appreciation to you !😁
I thought I understood CineEI but I'm less sure now. So just to clarify - if 800 ISO isn't bright enough, I should go to 12800 ISO (on my FX3) and use ND to bring it down?
Only if 12,800 is blowing out your image , nd is just used to bring things back in since you have 2 choices 800 might be too low ,12,800 might be too high, you’re better off bringing over exposure down, than under , up so 12,800 with nd could work
new sub here… still struggling with cine ei (fx3). wud love to see bts in low light situation (e.g. reception) and order of operations to achieving proper exposure. do you have any tutorials like this? or perhaps plug another channel that does? in meantime, appreciate your content!
thx
-colton 🤟🏼
There’s another video on the same thing with the fx6 ( works the same) you can check out 👍🏾
Hey Kofi, does this approach hold up for cine EI on the FX6?
I have a video specifically on the fx6 as well 👍🏾
@@KofiYeboah thanks I’ll check it out. Coming from black magic, I find cine ei so confusing. Thanks again
No worries!
Dude Kofi, why are you giving out these tutorials for free?
Ahah so I can charge later 🫡
J’ai pas tout compris ! 🤟🏾mais super le contenu! Ont suit depuis la 🇫🇷 !! #fx30team
apprécier le soutien!!!
Cine Ei est difficile du comprende, mais avec Le practice, ce sera facile ✌🏾 (I only know a small bit of quebecois French lol!)
Please help me. When I record videos in the sony fx30 they are clear on the camera , but once they go on my laptop, they are grey. What am I doing wrong?
You’re shooting in log profile, that’s going to happen, you need to colour your footage ( there’s a few videos here how to do that !)
@Kofi Yeboah hey thanks for your quick reply, new sub here .I even had to look for you on insta. Lol. Let me check it out. One last question please. Is it better to shoot with log off especially for someone like me who has no much ideas about cameras?
@@homewithgarbiejoan log shooting is as good as your ability and desire to want to edit it , it is the better profile, but that’s useless if you can’t use it
I’m still super confused! Have a shoot in a few days using an FX6 and an FX30. So I’ll try clarify…
I’m shooting with Cine EI using a base iso of 800. I never realised I could adjust an EI setting as I always thought EI and exposure were the same thing. But now I realise that’s not the case. Adjusting Cine EI will only change what I see on my Sony monitor not my Ninja V, in that way it’s a bit like a monitoring LUT. It shows me what my footage COULD look like not what is actually being recorded.
I still do t quite get the point of it then. Can I not just apply a LUT on my monitor and adjust ND or F stops based on exposure from that?
I also find the whole thing confusing about having a larger EI than base ISO. If it’s just a way to monitor exposure then why is it effecting my image? Or does it only affect it if I expose my image based on what I’m seeing on my little Sony monitor?
You basically just discovered that this is a gimmick 😂
First like - then watch 🫶🏾
I've seen your videos on the fx6 as well, and I'm also someone who after using the Komodo went to Sony. So my question is, is the fx6 worth the extra money over the fx30 or even the fx3 because I need an A cam and thinking either fx3 or fx6.
If you have the money and you’re wiling to wait , I’ve had no issues with the fx6
You talk to fast bro , good info just slow it slow down
try watching at 0.75 speed :)
@@KofiYeboah that shit actually worked 😂😂😂
@@TheyyLuvEddie 🫡
try 0.25 good on you
@@TTitus-zh1wc if .1 exist do that
Still confused 🫤 I don’t know why Sony like that just makes easy
Might take a bit of practise