I've had to do this today to my 2002 Lancer and we were following this vid like a bible! lol. We had our water pump seal fail (watched your other video) and it was replaced in 2009! We opened it up and looked like the place my Mom took it too swindled her. It looks like its the original factory install! We are going to put everything back tomorrow and hopefully we don't screw it up! Thanks for the help!
Yes. Check the timing marks for proper alignment and check for proper belt tension on both sides of the tensioner- rotate the engine a few times to make sure the marks return ok and the belt doesn't skip.
Thanks, Grunchy. A week after someone replaced the timing belt on my son's lancer, the right front tire lug bolts gave way on the freeway and the tire came off! Now the shop is saying they didn't take that tire off to change the timing belt. Boooo, I say. Boooo. Thank God no one was hurt, but the car needs a lot of work and no one will fess up...frustrating. Thanks again for your input. Have a good one! Jules
Thanks mate, I've done everything apart from remove the p/s pump. I removed the lines and put them out of the way. Harmonic balancer is out . Glad I seen this... I'm not new to this either Didn't even know about the cranck sensor/cover thing holy heck. Cheers - from Australia
Brian, I really wish you all the best with this video channel. Indeed, you are a great communicator with a great knack for simplifying the mechanical jargon. You made this very simple, entertaining and funny. In the future, you may consider checking out if one of your friends that likes computer graphics and video editing helps you with slides or digital video graphs to be clipped on the videos too. And yes, go all the way with finding sponsorships because you deserved it. I hope this comment helps you achieving that by convincing some auto parts brand or manufacturer to give you a hand. My background is in business admi and Law, and for sure I feel now that I can be a mechanic after watching this video...but hell no...those are waters too deep for me at the moment. Then again, I was able to understand the whole process and get a visual and clear understanding of this job, which at the ends translate into understanding better the pricing and what to ask for too. Thank you !!! All the best!!! Javier
Awesome video , the one thing you did not mention that made all the differance was that exciter ring you mentioned once , I put this thing together and took it apart 8 times not able to get it started , then figured out that exciter ring needs to be in a certain place in order to run because it runs threw that crank sensor .. Don't get me wrong this video was helpful and I will look for more from you , Thanks !!
Dude thanx Soo much for this video! I'm going to tackle this job when the weather warms up and that's so amazing that I have a video to help me! You rock
if you still have that 2005 Lancer, can you make a video on how to remove and replace the throttle position sensor? I'm having a great deal of trouble removing the electrical connector harness. It simply doesn't want to disengage from the TPS. I tried pressing the sides and the front of this connector, but it doesn't come out. I stopped trying in fear if I pulled hard enough I may break it. Please help. Changing the subject, your video was very informative. I was thinking about replacing the timing belt myself, but I can't even get a simple job done like removing the electrical connector from the TPS. Your video on removing the timing belt was pretty good but showed me that I had better let a professional do the work instead. You were informative enough to show me that I had better not temper with something that may appear easy when it simply is not. And, respectfully, I want to thank you for that video. It told me I'd better not mess with such a complex job. You removed a bunch of obstacles to get to the belt. Yiiikes!!!
You do a very good job at explaining how to... I liked your comment about the more things you get out of the way the easier things are to work on.. that is so true
@AdrianAlatorre You don't need a tool for this one. You just wiggle it and pull it off. If it's rusted good you can put a small pry bar behind each side of the crank pulley and alternate pressure back and forth.
Welcome- good luck. I will say that I use a torque wrench on head bolts and on CV axles with hub bearings. I don't use it on most smaller and less critical components.
Brian. I just did the timing belt and water pump change out today. I found that on the 2004 lancer 2.0 that the power steering pump was not an obstruction but just the metal line was in the way. It came loose from the pump and swung up out of the way due to the rubber hose on the other end. This may be a short cut for others. Also, an impact wrench would not budge my crankshaft pulley nut so I inserted a 1/2" breaker bar into the pulley nut recess and bumped the engine over. Of course disconnected the coils from the spark plugs before bumping the engine. Hope this may help others...
Brian, good information but my head is kinda spinning now after watching because of all the quick movement of the camera. But I can deal with it for all the good information you present. Thanks, Den.
@Willamor1 It's common to leave it out especially on a bottom cover. Any coolant, oil or dust has an escape path with it gone. As for the barrier it's intended to be... it's not critical. Great question. Traditionally I really like to have everything be as close to factory or better if at all possible. On that instance I leave it out. I also remove factory battery blankets in the summer.
Yes- you'll be fine. Only the camshaft knows which stroke is which. The bottom end (crank) only knows up and down and spin twice for every once the cam rotates.
brian, I made the dumb mistake of not changing my timing belt soon enough. when it snapped I did not hear or feel any bad glang or bang so I am hoping like crazy I have not bent any valves etc. What I did hear however was a metal on rubber teeth kinda wizz for a few secs and the oil light immediately come on. I was not applying any gas at that moment and kept it that way as the engine stalled. this is a 4G94 (in a Legnum New Zealand car) with less room than your lancer example.
My son's car, 2001 Mirage with 1.8, but looks like your 2.0, so I hope the parts I ordered are the correct parts. The timing belt went out @ idle speed. I changed the exhaust valves, all were bent, and put everything together. Timing marks line up perfect, but there is no power to the fuel pump. Relays are all good, pump is good, can't find any fuse for it. From all my troubleshooting, it seems to come down to one small black/blue tracer wire @ relay near stereo.
The cam is the important one. If the cam is right (top cover must be off) then the crank will be right. The crank goes around twice for every once the cam goes around. You can have the crank ON and have the cam upside down.
I wish there was a way I could talk to you. I have replaced the timing belt as I stated in my last post this is the second time so also replaced the serpentine belt alternator belt and had to replace the timing belt because they all wound up around the harmonic balancer and grouded up the lower timing case cover. And I did it this exact same way I did it the first time and it doesn't sound like I'm getting any compression at all. I realize they make a compression tester but hey I'm the disabled veteran who is under the carport & I can't afford a compression tester is there any way to find out about bent valves by maybe removing the valve cover and examining them from the top? Boy I wish I could really pick your brain. Your video about my Lancer is top notch & is coming from an ex Navy veteran of aircraft engine mechanics Top Notch Videos you're putting out buddy I really appreciate it thank you again hopefully maybe we can communicate live cuz I would really like to pick your brain as got zero auto mechanic friends. Anyway sorry about the big giant long post but I hope there is some way to check the compression without needing to buy a compression tester??
You can put the belt on and THEN the tensioner. I usually just make sure I've got all the slack gathered at the tensioner and then twist the belt onto the T. pulley.and slide it on.
Thank you for the video, big help. I have run into the fact that no one seems to sell the following replacement part. The bottom timing belt cover has a rubber seal. That seals has completely hardened and failed. it is in mulitple pieces on the workbench. I saw in the video that you did not have the seal/rubber gasket in the cover anymore. Did you find a replacement or did you put it together without the rubber gasket?
That wire is the only one with no change when you turn the key on. That relay seems not to do anything, but when swapped with other relay by glove box, or relay next to it, no change. I have tested all the relays, they all work fine. Do you have any idea what I need to check or do next?
Out of 200ish timing belts I have done in interference motors , I have only ran into about 3 that it had bent the valves .. So what I am getting at is it is always worth it to throw a belt in it ..
Update/Questions: First off thanks a lot for this video! So I broke the pins on the "exciter ring" ..took out the nubs and put everything back in for now(check engine) question: what does it do, is it a secondary crank position sensor? I'm going to have to try and drive without it until replacement is in...4th time taking my engine apart yay! Also Have noise like a belt rubbing as well, too tight on the timing pully maybe? It looks even on the sprocket while running. Again thanks
Thanks so much for this video. This will be the 2nd time I had to replace the timing belt😨. Did it 10 or so months ago😱 & I can not stress enough on changing the serpentine belt. I just replaced the Alt. Serpentine belt looked fine🤔 & yes it was all there not even a chip missing in any of the groves BUT 5k'ish later serpt. belt shredded off😵 in to the Alt belt & they both wound around harmonic pully😲 and ground out the lower timing cover away. At least I have this video for future reference. Thanks so much
It's a crank angle sensor component and the belt rides on it to keep it centered on the drive gear. Without it your engine runs in "limp mode" meaning bad performance and gas mileage.
I will follow your advice and remove lots of parts ie p steering etc. BUT!! Q1: Is it possible I can escape the valve bending thing or am I just doomed to pulling the head off etc. Q2. how do I go about turning beltless sprockets (to time it back) without bending any valves etc.?
Hey I'm actually following step by step in this one. I have everything but the 10mm behind the harmonic pulley is there a trick for removing the wheel/ pulley as it's free spinning?
looks like the motormount on a skoda, abitch too, tryed to change timing belt on one and it took me 4 hours couse evrything was so tight together and doubblemounted with skrews both front and back on same mounts
Mate just a question I have a 2010 greatwall x240, it has a mitsubishi 4 cylinder, with single coil pack not individually coiled, was not running I found TPC to be faulty changed it, car started like it's out of time, really rough, sops when accelerate ,fuel pressure 40psi ,compression 150,only checked first cylinder, has spark and diode flashes for injection pulse, would you have any idea? I'm thinking timing belt but have to pull it all down to confirm any further ,any help would be appreciated, all the best to you and your loved ones
The timing mark you were showing on the 2005 Lancer, on the camshaft pulley, I can not tell if you are pointing at the flat surface of block or pointing at edge of the aluminum housing that the timing cover seals and rests on?
How do I know I have the timing marks lined up. I have everything apart but I am second guessing my timing marks line up. Do you have any picutres or a video clearly showing the timing lining up.
is it necessary to remove the harmonic balancer when doing a timing belt change? I will be changing my timing belt soon on my 03 Lancer and that is the only thing that is scaring me!
Hey i have a 2002 your video was really helpful but i put the notchs all in place but car wont start now i turned it one tooth back on upper gear and same thing im gonna try turning it a tooth forward see if that works do you have any tips?
hey brian, if i removed my cylinder head after putting timing marks in place and accidentally moved the crankshaft with cyl/head removed, i can just turn it to the mark again right? it doesn't mess up the timing even if i turned it like 1 full turn, what i mean is that, it will still be on compression stroke when i put the head back on, right?
Great video. I used it to replace the crank pos sensor. upon removing the lower timing cover I noticed some teeth were missing on the timing belt. would I turn the crank and cam shafts clock wise to align the timing marks? Do those marks mean i am TDC on piston#1?
Hi there, I just bought a 2007 Lancer Wagon 1.6, and there seems too be a slight whining noise coming from it, depending on the revs. What could it be? Thank you in advance.
Great video, I'm trying to change the water pump on a 2000 Galant 2.4L , it's behind the timing belt so I decided to do the timing too, but I cant get the pump out. Even though it's loose the side of the engine bay is too close, I removed the passenger side engine mount, do I need to loosen all the mounts or is there some trick to it?
So, I have the same 4G94 2.oL. Timing belt snapped while driving... I know its an interference motor. Is it even worth replacing the belt and hoping nothing in the engine was destroyed? It's an 04 Lancer ES... Do I junk it or try to repair it?
Brian I had a local mechanic replace my timing belt,waterpump , replace 10 valves,machine a head,timing belt kit and a cam shaft seal, and a crank shaft seal I paid 1,700.00 dollars. all because the belt broke on me. but after the work was done i noticed the engine seemed to idle a little rough,i thought it might be because of the work done on the head. but it's been a few weeks and the problem remains. My son decided to look under the hood today,and noticed that the motor mount bracket and the mount were moving .we called the shop where it was repaired because it was under warranty . the bracket that you showed with the 3 bolts sticking out had all 3 bolts snapped down inside. the mechanic is claiming that he never touched that part.but i find that hard to believe since they had to replace the timing belt and do all the other work. and you said that it was not possible to remove the belt without those parts removed, now they are wanting to charge because my son demanded that they repair the broken bolts on the bracket .they drilled out and replaced 2 of the bolts but they dont want to repair the last bolt. I think they are full of it and need to fix it without any charges. best regards steve
Stephen Glenn Sorry man, that stinks! That's why I don't let anyone else work on my cars. It's possible that they were rusted in there and the threads failed upon removal or something, but now you just don't know for sure.
Brian, first of all thanks for the video! I am working on my neighbors 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer Rally and I need your help with something. It cranks but doesn't start.... It has spark and fuel. I am going to check for compression next, but I suspect that the timing belt has possibly jumped? I pulled the upper cover to inspect the timing belt, doesn't look like there is excessive wear or cracking. It has over 212k on the odometer and he can't remember when the last time he did the timing belt was; He bought it at 140k and hasn't done it since he owned it. I remembering him telling me that his car has power on the low end, but when he gives it gas, it cuts out or seems like there is no power. I am thinking the timing might have jumped a tooth or so then and now maybe it doesn't start because it has jumped even more teeth? I would really like your opinion and your help would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to help out my neighbors, as they do not have much money and I am not making any money on this. Thank you for your help.
@briansmobile1 I have a 99 eclipse and I got all the way to the crank pulley, and stopped cuz I couldn't remove it. I put it all back together but I know it will need to be done. I was debating on whether to buy an electric impact to remove it--yeah and there is the starter option, but I don't wanna go that route. I'm not in a pinch, but I don't wanna ignore it--my repair manual has a picture of a good puller though. I tried the pry bar+breaker bar...no luck.
How do you keep the crankshaft pulley still to give the bolt the 134 ft-lb torque it requires? It just spins. I even tried to get everything back together and hoped the other two belts would help hold it.
2001 mitshubitshi galant 2.4 what is the best way to make sure i have the oil pump spocket timing marks set and it is in time before reinstallation. Do I need to rotate the cam so many rotating,
thanks for the video really appreciate it but can you make a video of how to replace a EGR valve on a Mitsubishi Lancer 4G 93 turbo engine please. thanks
Question for you, shortly after changing the timing belt and water pump on a 2004 lancer, the car lurched and stalled and threw a code for the front crankshaft sensor. Then it started right up and purrs like a kitten. Think it could be that crank cover with integrated cable?
my timing belt for my 2004 lancer 2.0 didn't break but loosened, the car shut down but I still have power is it possible if there was damage too the engine or would it be fine since it loosened and didn't allow the timing belt too spin?
I have a 2006 Mitsubishi lancer and it won't start, could this be the problem. I took off my belt cover and inspected it. It has a few cracks so I bought a new one. But I'm getting spark, fuel, compression. However I don't know if I'm getting correct timing
awesome...so if i get a "saw" sound is that one of my marks being a hair off :| id think it wouldnt be so extreme of a sound though I checked the marks and rotated the engine a few times to make sure they ended back at start
What a great video. Just starting this job. My first Mitsubishi experience was doing this on my Smart Fortwo that has the 3 cylinder Mitsubishi engine in it (3B21). With this one there are similarities. Sad part is this Lancer was torn apart by another garage and they reassembled it and now there is NO compression. So getting into a mess I'm sure even though I'm a 40 year veteran mechanic.
hello mr. brian, how's abt lancer carburator manual type model 1998 i'm planning to replace it after 1 month pls give me a tips..thank you very much..God bless u..
I've had to do this today to my 2002 Lancer and we were following this vid like a bible! lol. We had our water pump seal fail (watched your other video) and it was replaced in 2009! We opened it up and looked like the place my Mom took it too swindled her. It looks like its the original factory install! We are going to put everything back tomorrow and hopefully we don't screw it up! Thanks for the help!
Thank you for posting this. It made me realize there is no way I could do this LOL.
nickd19
What is the electric wiring beneath the radiator of lancer gli?
ahahaha, and here I was looking at the diagrams at Amayama preparing my order, guess not!
You could definantly pull this off, I'm a mechanic and I'm not Einstein.... I'm a mechanic!
Have more faith in yourself!
Everything turned out great and it's actually running smoother than ever!
finally someone is using a laser pointer to show where things are located on a repair job. nice video
loved the laser light, it makes your tutorial so effective. thankyou for expaining things to well.
Yes. Check the timing marks for proper alignment and check for proper belt tension on both sides of the tensioner- rotate the engine a few times to make sure the marks return ok and the belt doesn't skip.
Thanks, Grunchy. A week after someone replaced the timing belt on my son's lancer, the right front tire lug bolts gave way on the freeway and the tire came off! Now the shop is saying they didn't take that tire off to change the timing belt. Boooo, I say. Boooo. Thank God no one was hurt, but the car needs a lot of work and no one will fess up...frustrating.
Thanks again for your input. Have a good one! Jules
the lacer makes your video cooler bro keep it
Thank you Brian you made it a breeze and simple. Thanks for the entertainment as well buddy. Nice work!
its great.A very clear description how to do and set the timing marks
Thanks mate, I've done everything apart from remove the p/s pump. I removed the lines and put them out of the way. Harmonic balancer is out .
Glad I seen this... I'm not new to this either
Didn't even know about the cranck sensor/cover thing holy heck.
Cheers - from Australia
Brian, I really wish you all the best with this video channel. Indeed, you are a great communicator with a great knack for simplifying the mechanical jargon. You made this very simple, entertaining and funny. In the future, you may consider checking out if one of your friends that likes computer graphics and video editing helps you with slides or digital video graphs to be clipped on the videos too. And yes, go all the way with finding sponsorships because you deserved it. I hope this comment helps you achieving that by convincing some auto parts brand or manufacturer to give you a hand. My background is in business admi and Law, and for sure I feel now that I can be a mechanic after watching this video...but hell no...those are waters too deep for me at the moment. Then again, I was able to understand the whole process and get a visual and clear understanding of this job, which at the ends translate into understanding better the pricing and what to ask for too. Thank you !!! All the best!!! Javier
Awesome video , the one thing you did not mention that made all the differance was that exciter ring you mentioned once , I put this thing together and took it apart 8 times not able to get it started , then figured out that exciter ring needs to be in a certain place in order to run because it runs threw that crank sensor .. Don't get me wrong this video was helpful and I will look for more from you , Thanks !!
Dude thanx Soo much for this video! I'm going to tackle this job when the weather warms up and that's so amazing that I have a video to help me! You rock
How did you go Joe Mamma?
Very knowledgeable on the water pump timing belt replacement that's going to come in very handy
great video ! i was able to pull the pump in 35 mins !
if you still have that 2005 Lancer, can you make a video on how to remove and replace the throttle position sensor? I'm having a great deal of trouble removing the electrical connector harness. It simply doesn't want to disengage from the TPS. I tried pressing the sides and the front of this connector, but it doesn't come out. I stopped trying in fear if I pulled hard enough I may break it. Please help. Changing the subject, your video was very informative. I was thinking about replacing the timing belt myself, but I can't even get a simple job done like removing the electrical connector from the TPS. Your video on removing the timing belt was pretty good but showed me that I had better let a professional do the work instead. You were informative enough to show me that I had better not temper with something that may appear easy when it simply is not. And, respectfully, I want to thank you for that video. It told me I'd better not mess with such a complex job. You removed a bunch of obstacles to get to the belt. Yiiikes!!!
You do a very good job at explaining how to... I liked your comment about the more things you get out of the way the easier things are to work on.. that is so true
@AdrianAlatorre You don't need a tool for this one. You just wiggle it and pull it off. If it's rusted good you can put a small pry bar behind each side of the crank pulley and alternate pressure back and forth.
@dojmike You're welcome Mike- all the best to you and your family.
briansmobile1
Welcome- good luck. I will say that I use a torque wrench on head bolts and on CV axles with hub bearings. I don't use it on most smaller and less critical components.
Brian. I just did the timing belt and water pump change out today. I found that on the 2004 lancer 2.0 that the power steering pump was not an obstruction but just the metal line was in the way. It came loose from the pump and swung up out of the way due to the rubber hose on the other end. This may be a short cut for others. Also, an impact wrench would not budge my crankshaft pulley nut so I inserted a 1/2" breaker bar into the pulley nut recess and bumped the engine over. Of course disconnected the coils from the spark plugs before bumping the engine. Hope this may help others...
Brian, good information but my head is kinda spinning now after watching because of all the quick movement of the camera. But I can deal with it for all the good information you present. Thanks, Den.
I love your videos, can you give some advice for getting the nut off the crankshaft? My impact wrench at about 100psi isn't doing it...
*Many thanks* for the video post!
This is very very *helpful!*
_Repaired my old Lancer's water pump._
Great idea on the lazer light, but you need to slow it down, again great idea it helps me follow alot better....Have a great holiday
It's wise to do so. Many times I replace the pump out of habit/prudence and discover signs of failure once I take the old pump off and look at it.
it's good video to watch and work on car.but like to see other parts if you have upload please
@Willamor1 It's common to leave it out especially on a bottom cover. Any coolant, oil or dust has an escape path with it gone. As for the barrier it's intended to be... it's not critical. Great question. Traditionally I really like to have everything be as close to factory or better if at all possible. On that instance I leave it out. I also remove factory battery blankets in the summer.
Hey dude random as hell, but I had a oil leak got it fixxed but I think oil got on the belts ! So now my cars running mad shitty I gotta get it done
Thanks for taking the time to explain man.
Good stuff my sister is on about a little change of belts! Thank you for sure!!
HEY THERES ONLY ONE BRIANSMOBILE :) THANKS FOR ANOTHER GRET VID
Yes- you'll be fine. Only the camshaft knows which stroke is which. The bottom end (crank) only knows up and down and spin twice for every once the cam rotates.
brian, I made the dumb mistake of not changing my timing belt soon enough. when it snapped I did not hear or feel any bad glang or bang so I am hoping like crazy I have not bent any valves etc. What I did hear however was a metal on rubber teeth kinda wizz for a few secs and the oil light immediately come on. I was not applying any gas at that moment and kept it that way as the engine stalled. this is a 4G94 (in a Legnum New Zealand car) with less room than your lancer example.
My son's car, 2001 Mirage with 1.8, but looks like your 2.0, so I hope the parts I ordered are the correct parts. The timing belt went out @ idle speed. I changed the exhaust valves, all were bent, and put everything together. Timing marks line up perfect, but there is no power to the fuel pump. Relays are all good, pump is good, can't find any fuse for it. From all my troubleshooting, it seems to come down to one small black/blue tracer wire @ relay near stereo.
hey great vid...just have a question the belt is not sitting where the old one was its close the edge of the camshaft is this a problem.....
The cam is the important one. If the cam is right (top cover must be off) then the crank will be right. The crank goes around twice for every once the cam goes around. You can have the crank ON and have the cam upside down.
Cheers for the assistance, I'm in QLD AUSTRALIA
I wish there was a way I could talk to you. I have replaced the timing belt as I stated in my last post this is the second time so also replaced the serpentine belt alternator belt and had to replace the timing belt because they all wound up around the harmonic balancer and grouded up the lower timing case cover. And I did it this exact same way I did it the first time and it doesn't sound like I'm getting any compression at all. I realize they make a compression tester but hey I'm the disabled veteran who is under the carport & I can't afford a compression tester is there any way to find out about bent valves by maybe removing the valve cover and examining them from the top? Boy I wish I could really pick your brain. Your video about my Lancer is top notch & is coming from an ex Navy veteran of aircraft engine mechanics Top Notch Videos you're putting out buddy I really appreciate it thank you again hopefully maybe we can communicate live cuz I would really like to pick your brain as got zero auto mechanic friends. Anyway sorry about the big giant long post but I hope there is some way to check the compression without needing to buy a compression tester??
cheers brian, love all the timing belt videos - even though i don't own these cars it's nice to know!
Thank you. Great flow of information. To the point and very helpful tips.
You can put the belt on and THEN the tensioner. I usually just make sure I've got all the slack gathered at the tensioner and then twist the belt onto the T. pulley.and slide it on.
Thanks great information
Thank you for the video, big help. I have run into the fact that no one seems to sell the following replacement part. The bottom timing belt cover has a rubber seal. That seals has completely hardened and failed. it is in mulitple pieces on the workbench. I saw in the video that you did not have the seal/rubber gasket in the cover anymore. Did you find a replacement or did you put it together without the rubber gasket?
It has to be lined up with the woodruff key or roll pin depending on the model.
Your AWESOME dude ,you explain evrything super well thx
That wire is the only one with no change when you turn the key on. That relay seems not to do anything, but when swapped with other relay by glove box, or relay next to it, no change. I have tested all the relays, they all work fine. Do you have any idea what I need to check or do next?
Out of 200ish timing belts I have done in interference motors , I have only ran into about 3 that it had bent the valves .. So what I am getting at is it is always worth it to throw a belt in it ..
Update/Questions: First off thanks a lot for this video!
So I broke the pins on the "exciter ring" ..took out the nubs and put everything back in for now(check engine)
question: what does it do, is it a secondary crank position sensor? I'm going to have to try and drive without it until replacement is in...4th time taking my engine apart yay!
Also Have noise like a belt rubbing as well, too tight on the timing pully maybe? It looks even on the sprocket while running.
Again thanks
Great video! Did you have to take off the right front tire?
Thanks so much for this video. This will be the 2nd time I had to replace the timing belt😨. Did it 10 or so months ago😱 & I can not stress enough on changing the serpentine belt. I just replaced the Alt. Serpentine belt looked fine🤔 & yes it was all there not even a chip missing in any of the groves BUT 5k'ish later serpt. belt shredded off😵 in to the Alt belt & they both wound around harmonic pully😲 and ground out the lower timing cover away. At least I have this video for future reference. Thanks so much
It's a crank angle sensor component and the belt rides on it to keep it centered on the drive gear. Without it your engine runs in "limp mode" meaning bad performance and gas mileage.
Excellent Video. Useful information to DIY. Thanks a lot...
I will follow your advice and remove lots of parts ie p steering etc. BUT!! Q1: Is it possible I can escape the valve bending thing or am I just doomed to pulling the head off etc. Q2. how do I go about turning beltless sprockets (to time it back) without bending any valves etc.?
Hey I'm actually following step by step in this one. I have everything but the 10mm behind the harmonic pulley is there a trick for removing the wheel/ pulley as it's free spinning?
Really helpful thanks
How much tension should i put on the new belt? I noticed the tensioner is slotted. Thank you for your help!
Yes I just started this today. I wish he had a head cam on while taking off all the pulleys and power steering
looks like the motormount on a skoda, abitch too, tryed to change timing belt on one and it took me 4 hours couse evrything was so tight together and doubblemounted with skrews both front and back on same mounts
Mate just a question I have a 2010 greatwall x240, it has a mitsubishi 4 cylinder, with single coil pack not individually coiled, was not running I found TPC to be faulty changed it, car started like it's out of time, really rough, sops when accelerate ,fuel pressure 40psi ,compression 150,only checked first cylinder, has spark and diode flashes for injection pulse, would you have any idea? I'm thinking timing belt but have to pull it all down to confirm any further ,any help would be appreciated, all the best to you and your loved ones
The timing mark you were showing on the 2005 Lancer, on the camshaft pulley, I can not tell if you are pointing at the flat surface of block or pointing at edge of the aluminum housing that the timing cover seals and rests on?
@peelout40 Usually an impact wrench will take that HB bolt right out.
Either your cam/crank sensor has been damaged or is unplugged, or your marks are out of alignment.
How do I know I have the timing marks lined up. I have everything apart but I am second guessing my timing marks line up. Do you have any picutres or a video clearly showing the timing lining up.
The Manual says to top dead center before you remove the timing belt cover . Is that necessary because I didn't do it when I removed the cover ?
is it necessary to remove the harmonic balancer when doing a timing belt change? I will be changing my timing belt soon on my 03 Lancer and that is the only thing that is scaring me!
Hey i have a 2002 your video was really helpful but i put the notchs all in place but car wont start now i turned it one tooth back on upper gear and same thing im gonna try turning it a tooth forward see if that works do you have any tips?
I would love to click on the ads brian ..but I never see any??
hey brian, if i removed my cylinder head after putting timing marks in place and accidentally moved the crankshaft with cyl/head removed, i can just turn it to the mark again right? it doesn't mess up the timing even if i turned it like 1 full turn, what i mean is that, it will still be on compression stroke when i put the head back on, right?
Hi & thank you for posting this informative video. A Question; What type of Pneumatic tool do you use to get in tight spots around the engine?
Great video. I used it to replace the crank pos sensor. upon removing the lower timing cover I noticed some teeth were missing on the timing belt. would I turn the crank and cam shafts clock wise to align the timing marks? Do those marks mean i am TDC on piston#1?
Hi there,
I just bought a 2007 Lancer Wagon 1.6, and there seems too be a slight whining noise coming from it, depending on the revs. What could it be? Thank you in advance.
I got that car back (02 lancer) not running geat and drinking fuel , my question here is dose that exiter ring need to be in a (timed position) ?
Great video thanks for posting this.
Great video, I'm trying to change the water pump on a 2000 Galant 2.4L , it's behind the timing belt so I decided to do the timing too, but I cant get the pump out. Even though it's loose the side of the engine bay is too close, I removed the passenger side engine mount, do I need to loosen all the mounts or is there some trick to it?
im doing the same, its a pain in the ass!!
I have the same car you have in this video, can I get the water pump off without taking off the timing belt? 2006
Do I need any special tools for this job?
So, I have the same 4G94 2.oL. Timing belt snapped while driving... I know its an interference motor. Is it even worth replacing the belt and hoping nothing in the engine was destroyed? It's an 04 Lancer ES... Do I junk it or try to repair it?
do you have to drain any fluids before removing the water pump or any other part?
Brian I had a local mechanic replace my timing belt,waterpump , replace 10 valves,machine a head,timing belt kit and a cam shaft seal, and a crank shaft seal I paid 1,700.00 dollars. all because the belt broke on me. but after the work was done i noticed the engine seemed to idle a little rough,i thought it might be because of the work done on the head. but it's been a few weeks and the problem remains. My son decided to look under the hood today,and noticed that the motor mount bracket and the mount were moving .we called the shop where it was repaired because it was under warranty .
the bracket that you showed with the 3 bolts sticking out had all 3 bolts snapped down inside. the mechanic is claiming that he never touched that part.but i find that hard to believe since they had to replace the timing belt and do all the other work. and you said that it was not possible to remove the belt without those parts removed, now they are wanting to charge because my son demanded that they repair the broken bolts on the bracket .they drilled out and replaced 2 of the bolts but they dont want to repair the last bolt. I think they are full of it and need to fix it without any charges. best regards steve
Stephen Glenn Sorry man, that stinks! That's why I don't let anyone else work on my cars. It's possible that they were rusted in there and the threads failed upon removal or something, but now you just don't know for sure.
Brian, first of all thanks for the video! I am working on my neighbors 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer Rally and I need your help with something. It cranks but doesn't start.... It has spark and fuel. I am going to check for compression next, but I suspect that the timing belt has possibly jumped? I pulled the upper cover to inspect the timing belt, doesn't look like there is excessive wear or cracking. It has over 212k on the odometer and he can't remember when the last time he did the timing belt was; He bought it at 140k and hasn't done it since he owned it. I remembering him telling me that his car has power on the low end, but when he gives it gas, it cuts out or seems like there is no power. I am thinking the timing might have jumped a tooth or so then and now maybe it doesn't start because it has jumped even more teeth? I would really like your opinion and your help would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to help out my neighbors, as they do not have much money and I am not making any money on this. Thank you for your help.
@briansmobile1 I have a 99 eclipse and I got all the way to the crank pulley, and stopped cuz I couldn't remove it. I put it all back together but I know it will need to be done. I was debating on whether to buy an electric impact to remove it--yeah and there is the starter option, but I don't wanna go that route. I'm not in a pinch, but I don't wanna ignore it--my repair manual has a picture of a good puller though. I tried the pry bar+breaker bar...no luck.
@regnice01 Glad you liked it. You're welcome.
How do you keep the crankshaft pulley still to give the bolt the 134 ft-lb torque it requires?
It just spins. I even tried to get everything back together and hoped the other two belts would help hold it.
I am changing the timing belt on the same year of mitsubishi lancer. What tool did you use to get loosed and tighten the crankshaft pulley?
JonnyBoyUltra161 I asked the same question. did you figure it out?
Put the old belt around the pulley, pull the loose end tight and wrap it around something solid. Now you can tighten the damn thing.
great tip...i use the binder clips also.
Is there a way to check that the timing belt has been installed correctly before replacing the covers, drive belts, ect?
Great video, would you happen to have the torque specs or a link to where I can find them? Thank you
Double check for timing marks after removing the timing covers and cleaning the drive gear and cam gear.
2001 mitshubitshi galant 2.4 what is the best way to make sure i have the oil pump spocket timing marks set and it is in time before reinstallation. Do I need to rotate the cam so many rotating,
thanks for the video really appreciate it but can you make a video of how to replace a EGR valve on a Mitsubishi Lancer 4G 93 turbo engine please.
thanks
Question for you, shortly after changing the timing belt and water pump on a 2004 lancer, the car lurched and stalled and threw a code for the front crankshaft sensor. Then it started right up and purrs like a kitten. Think it could be that crank cover with integrated cable?
my timing belt for my 2004 lancer 2.0 didn't break but loosened, the car shut down but I still have power is it possible if there was damage too the engine or would it be fine since it loosened and didn't allow the timing belt too spin?
I have a 2006 Mitsubishi lancer and it won't start, could this be the problem. I took off my belt cover and inspected it. It has a few cracks so I bought a new one. But I'm getting spark, fuel, compression. However I don't know if I'm getting correct timing
awesome...so if i get a "saw" sound is that one of my marks being a hair off :| id think it wouldnt be so extreme of a sound though I checked the marks and rotated the engine a few times to make sure they ended back at start
Thanks dude I'm trying to tune up my Mitsubishi, cool video.
What a great video. Just starting this job. My first Mitsubishi experience was doing this on my Smart Fortwo that has the 3 cylinder Mitsubishi engine in it (3B21). With this one there are similarities. Sad part is this Lancer was torn apart by another garage and they reassembled it and now there is NO compression. So getting into a mess I'm sure even though I'm a 40 year veteran mechanic.
Did you torque everything down to spec?
hello mr. brian, how's abt lancer carburator manual type model 1998 i'm planning to replace it after 1 month pls give me a tips..thank you very much..God bless u..
Can you make a video on how to install that alternator/motor mount bracket? I just can't figure it out...