I just found this channel yesterday and I’m quickly working through all of your old videos. I found Kelly’s videos years ago and I’m glad to see another young man willing to learn
No music please. Thanks for details. The how and why is much more useful than just a pour video. I am starting on my casting journey. I haven't tried lost foam yet.
The leaker underneath the central 4-eared embossment is caused by inadequate packing. As you re-use your sand, it can become contaminated and not flow as well under vibration as fresh dry sand. When packing, if you pour a liter or two of fresh sand into/around overhangs and potential problem packing areas, it can help eliminate these problems. Pack in stages as you fill before the flask weight increases helps if your vibe is underpowered. The little BBs are caused by surface tension between the foam pattern and coating. If you spray your foam patterns with soapy water (usually dishwashing detergents are best because the anti-spotting additives are surfactants), this helps eliminate them, and so does working all surfaces with a soft brush as you apply the coating. Best, Kelly
Thanks for the info, I didn’t think about the sand flowing less freely after being reused. Luckily all of the Leakers released after thinning them with a die grinder and another tap with a chisel. I did brush on the plaster and use soapy water on the pattern but still had some small bubbles. Maybe my plaster was slightly too thick? Or maybe I wasn’t brushing it enough . . . Either way I’ll see if I can make some changes for the second pattern before I cast it.
@@OddsandEndsMachining Machined foam has very high surface area and strongly repels water. Surfactants help break surface tension but also using a deflocculant or dispersant instead of water to thin your plaster can help. These substances reduce the apparent viscosity of the plaster and improve how it adheres, levels, and covers the foam surface. A common deflocculant is Sodium Carbonate (washing soda). A common dispersant is Acrylic found in commonly found Acrylic Latex paint. There are several TH-camrs that use Latex paint and plaster for refractory coating with success. It usually takes relatively small amounts and some experimentation. Best, Kelly
Have to be happy with that 2nd one. Not a bad result at all. :) Well done. That will machine and clean up nicely and look very professional. I'm keen to see the next one too. And happy without music.
Start using casting plaster it will help the finish...or making traditional molds with the foam removed before pouring...the sand you are using will only allow it to be so good always with minor defects
I will be doing some traditional wooden moulds for an upcoming project. I like using the foam as it’s fast, cheap and works relatively well for one off castings.
That’s the plan, I’m not too sure what I’m going to do in terms of work envelope, maybe 600x600x150mm. I’m also not set on a bridge or gantry type, all things to think about.
Do not preheat the mould and or sand too much, if at all. You're doing well. Nice castings for sure. You are rocking it. No music .. Just English explainanations please. WOW.. I was doing own foundry back over a decade... I love this bro 👍🇭🇲
Thanks, it seems like I’ll be making some more v twin videos then. I believe you, I won’t see the 1001 likes . . . Unless of course you have 1001 burner accounts haha.
anything engines is AWESOME and hopefully steam of 2-5 horsepower in future ;o) lost foam casting is def. the router's strong point, a $150 "3018" would be fun to see proof of concept
You never know, maybe that’s something I might make in the future haha. I get sidetracked easily enough. It would be cool to test one of the small routers out. I’m sure it would easily handle foam patterns, making this kind of thing relatively accessible to anybody.
Don't know the source of the wheels you used for the pour but Australian made cast ally wheel were CC601 and do respond to heat treat but will age harden as well, excellent work, just a suggestion if the line in the casting is to deep to polish out maybe gouge it out a but with a rotary burr and weld/blend with a tig weld
Good to know, I know the wheel was from a Tesla, so I know it’s probably not Australian. Using the Tig is always an option, the seam shouldn’t be too deep hopefully.
I know it’s a thing with bonded sand but I don’t think there is anyway to do it with lost foam other than using a higher melt temp Or making the gates larger.
Hey Jonno have. You got any idea what the best Ali /alloy is to lfc of engine crankcases is ? I’ve had a bit of a look but no luck so far I’ve been advised that casting my baby v8 cases is the way to go ( marsh Motorsport) apparently fabbed Ali cases will expand too much. Not what Chu want!! Looking forward to more V4 vids it really got the juices flowing along with my lill project hope fully getting the cranks ground this week to sleeve the main journals to 35 mm for gsxr 1000 main bearings 🍻👍
I believe fabricated cases can work, you just need to have tolerances to match. The block might require a meticulous warm up procedure to get everything into spec. I used alloy 242.2, it’s just what the foundry here uses, check out the link it’s very helpful. I’ll get back to the V4 soon I’ve got the crankcase patterns made but I’ve been working on the new v twin. I’ve got the machining about 85% finished so I’m probably due to start editing a video soon. www.riotinto.com/can/-/media/content/documents/products/aluminium/rt-aluminium-foundry.pdf?rev=44253ce840404452baa59f85a726e83c
Thank you. With 3D prints, you need a different process, it’s called shell casting and I don’t have the right ceramic for the shell and it’s far quicker to machine foam than print PLA. Also I have a far larger build window with the router.
Sounds like an interesting project. It’s is a vertigo cnc router, the company that made these doesn’t exist anymore. You could use almost any cnc router as cutting foam is fairly easy on machines.
Have you not looking into plaster mold casting.. with you cnc knowledge you'd be better off machining the negative mold in plaster.. complex forms in keyed segments .. you get perfect smooth finish every time.. soak the casting out in water dissolves the plaster
Interesting, I haven’t thought about using plaster in any serious capacity, mainly because I’ve seen a lot of people having trouble with it cracking. I’d likely just make core boxes for resin bonded sand if I was going to go through all the effort.
@@OddsandEndsMachining give it a try.. exactly as you're doing with the foam but machining the negative instead.. use casting plaster.. & dry it over several days then oven dry at about 100c for 12 hrs.. fail proof & die cast factory finish.. I used to make die cast soldiers in plaster molds as a young teenager.. but cast the mold using pattern molds.. it's really very easy
The pattern for the rear half of the engine is about to be machined, I just used this as a test for the cnc router to save ruining a whole block of foam.
@OddsandEndsMachining ok what will you use v4 for? I also got thought of this engine cold pit it in long travel crosskart buggy. Engine would be in front of the vehicle with a car transmission and driveshafts
That’s not how the process works, otherwise the sand wouldn’t hold its shape. It would also add another unnecessary step to the process. That would require a specific type of sand and in that case I would use reusable wooden patterns.
@@OddsandEndsMachining you can add a sodium silicate to sand, it will glue the sand into a soft brick. And then you can easily melt out the foam or even 3d-printed models, the sand will keep the shape
I'd love to see more on this V twin😊
I just found this channel yesterday and I’m quickly working through all of your old videos. I found Kelly’s videos years ago and I’m glad to see another young man willing to learn
Thanks, he’s quite helpful and more than happy to offer advice when I am in need.
No music please. Thanks for details. The how and why is much more useful than just a pour video. I am starting on my casting journey. I haven't tried lost foam yet.
This channel deserves way more views and subscribers
Thanks, It’s getting there.
Nice, look forward to the final result..
The leaker underneath the central 4-eared embossment is caused by inadequate packing. As you re-use your sand, it can become contaminated and not flow as well under vibration as fresh dry sand. When packing, if you pour a liter or two of fresh sand into/around overhangs and potential problem packing areas, it can help eliminate these problems. Pack in stages as you fill before the flask weight increases helps if your vibe is underpowered. The little BBs are caused by surface tension between the foam pattern and coating. If you spray your foam patterns with soapy water (usually dishwashing detergents are best because the anti-spotting additives are surfactants), this helps eliminate them, and so does working all surfaces with a soft brush as you apply the coating. Best, Kelly
Thanks for the info, I didn’t think about the sand flowing less freely after being reused. Luckily all of the Leakers released after thinning them with a die grinder and another tap with a chisel.
I did brush on the plaster and use soapy water on the pattern but still had some small bubbles. Maybe my plaster was slightly too thick? Or maybe I wasn’t brushing it enough . . . Either way I’ll see if I can make some changes for the second pattern before I cast it.
@@OddsandEndsMachining Machined foam has very high surface area and strongly repels water. Surfactants help break surface tension but also using a deflocculant or dispersant instead of water to thin your plaster can help. These substances reduce the apparent viscosity of the plaster and improve how it adheres, levels, and covers the foam surface. A common deflocculant is Sodium Carbonate (washing soda). A common dispersant is Acrylic found in commonly found Acrylic Latex paint. There are several TH-camrs that use Latex paint and plaster for refractory coating with success. It usually takes relatively small amounts and some experimentation. Best, Kelly
Thanks for that, that’s something I’ll look into before the next v4 casting.
No music, awesome stuff
Great videos. More about this 2 cylinder and the CNC build. Preferably without music. Thanks.
No music. Thanks
loving this, please post more on the V engine
Expanding foam works better than pva for gluing the layers, no cold shut lines.
Gidday mate, looking forward to seeing more progress. Love what you are doing!
Have to be happy with that 2nd one. Not a bad result at all. :) Well done. That will machine and clean up nicely and look very professional.
I'm keen to see the next one too. And happy without music.
Thank you, hopefully the other half comes out as good, I will know this weekend🤞🏼
Nice pour look forward to more on this, no music for me please.
Start using casting plaster it will help the finish...or making traditional molds with the foam removed before pouring...the sand you are using will only allow it to be so good always with minor defects
I will be doing some traditional wooden moulds for an upcoming project. I like using the foam as it’s fast, cheap and works relatively well for one off castings.
With the ability to cast parts as well as machine them, you can make a really exceptional CNC router!
That’s the plan, I’m not too sure what I’m going to do in terms of work envelope, maybe 600x600x150mm.
I’m also not set on a bridge or gantry type, all things to think about.
Laser engraver, conversion to plasma cnc. Will be the K1W1 budget conversion.Please help us.
Coming Soon 🤞
You should try using a refractory coating on your foam core molds.
Do not preheat the mould and or sand too much, if at all.
You're doing well.
Nice castings for sure.
You are rocking it.
No music ..
Just English explainanations please.
WOW.. I was doing own foundry back over a decade...
I love this bro 👍🇭🇲
Hell yeah. More Vee-twin for sure! If I hit the like button 1001 times, will you believe me?
Thanks, it seems like I’ll be making some more v twin videos then.
I believe you, I won’t see the 1001 likes . . . Unless of course you have 1001 burner accounts haha.
@@OddsandEndsMachining Ar you going to copy the crank and timing geometry of a known engine like a JAP, or design something from scratch?
I have noticed crucible temp changes finished result.. 10yrs ago. Good on ya sonny 👍
Just keep racing until you can't fall off anymore...
Yeah, it is very evident in the video how cold the first pour is.
@@OddsandEndsMachining Porosity is always an issue with castings. Keep going and having fun
Awesome video man, keep it up.
Cheers Logan
You’re getting so good at this stuff! You should make a hayabusa v8 next 😆
Don’t tempt me . . . I already get sidetracked easily enough haha.
This improved my confidence for when I make my pours, thanks!
Awesome! Would love to see more about this engine!
The big con-dog makes an appearance!
The apprentice in training haha.
anything engines is AWESOME and hopefully steam of 2-5 horsepower in future ;o)
lost foam casting is def. the router's strong point, a $150 "3018" would be fun to see proof of concept
You never know, maybe that’s something I might make in the future haha. I get sidetracked easily enough.
It would be cool to test one of the small routers out. I’m sure it would easily handle foam patterns, making this kind of thing relatively accessible to anybody.
Nice project. Definitely will wait for next one till complete engine 🎉
Don't know the source of the wheels you used for the pour but Australian made cast ally wheel were CC601 and do respond to heat treat but will age harden as well, excellent work, just a suggestion if the line in the casting is to deep to polish out maybe gouge it out a but with a rotary burr and weld/blend with a tig weld
Good to know, I know the wheel was from a Tesla, so I know it’s probably not Australian.
Using the Tig is always an option, the seam shouldn’t be too deep hopefully.
Nice crazy kiwi cuz..
Hey folks.. Are we over fush and chups now ffs... 👍🇭🇲
I'm surprised how well it came out considering how loose the sand was. I would have thought the sand would shift when the foam is replaced by liquid.
Its amazing how well it works.
I wonder if there might be a way to preheat the sand prior to pouring. Obviously not very much, you wouldn’t want to risk damaging the pattern
I know it’s a thing with bonded sand but I don’t think there is anyway to do it with lost foam other than using a higher melt temp Or making the gates larger.
Qual material uza para moldar peça
Extruded polystyrene foam for the pattern.
The aluminium is from an alloy wheel.
Hey Jonno have. You got any idea what the best Ali /alloy is to lfc of engine crankcases is ? I’ve had a bit of a look but no luck so far I’ve been advised that casting my baby v8 cases is the way to go ( marsh Motorsport) apparently fabbed Ali cases will expand too much. Not what Chu want!! Looking forward to more V4 vids it really got the juices flowing along with my lill project hope fully getting the cranks ground this week to sleeve the main journals to 35 mm for gsxr 1000 main bearings 🍻👍
I believe fabricated cases can work, you just need to have tolerances to match. The block might require a meticulous warm up procedure to get everything into spec.
I used alloy 242.2, it’s just what the foundry here uses, check out the link it’s very helpful. I’ll get back to the V4 soon I’ve got the crankcase patterns made but I’ve been working on the new v twin. I’ve got the machining about 85% finished so I’m probably due to start editing a video soon.
www.riotinto.com/can/-/media/content/documents/products/aluminium/rt-aluminium-foundry.pdf?rev=44253ce840404452baa59f85a726e83c
Thanx For the great info bro good luck with the v2 and hangin out for the v4 👍😂🍻
I like your video bro ever considering 3d printing mold to make casting?
it dosntv really work
@@tonyhill8300 too much to do or its just hassle to make one?
What makes it difficult if you don’t mind sharing ?
Thank you. With 3D prints, you need a different process, it’s called shell casting and I don’t have the right ceramic for the shell and it’s far quicker to machine foam than print PLA. Also I have a far larger build window with the router.
@@OddsandEndsMachining fair enough. it made a lot of sense making those pattern in foam with cnc machining.
thanks for sharing experience, can you tell me the name of cnc mill machine, is we can also build piston with foam
Sounds like an interesting project. It’s is a vertigo cnc router, the company that made these doesn’t exist anymore. You could use almost any cnc router as cutting foam is fairly easy on machines.
@4:00 what are you using for "vibrators"? I see that they are air powered. Cheers
Rotary turbine vibrators, they are fairly inexpensive from aliexpress.
@@OddsandEndsMachining Brilliant. Thank you. Do you recall what size they are? I see a wide assortment. Cheers.
No music it is too much trouble. Please keep showing what you can.
pls no music
Have you not looking into plaster mold casting.. with you cnc knowledge you'd be better off machining the negative mold in plaster.. complex forms in keyed segments .. you get perfect smooth finish every time.. soak the casting out in water dissolves the plaster
Interesting, I haven’t thought about using plaster in any serious capacity, mainly because I’ve seen a lot of people having trouble with it cracking. I’d likely just make core boxes for resin bonded sand if I was going to go through all the effort.
@@OddsandEndsMachining give it a try.. exactly as you're doing with the foam but machining the negative instead.. use casting plaster.. & dry it over several days then oven dry at about 100c for 12 hrs.. fail proof & die cast factory finish.. I used to make die cast soldiers in plaster molds as a young teenager.. but cast the mold using pattern molds.. it's really very easy
Nice work, good to see more Kiwi content on utube 👍😃
Where is v4
The pattern for the rear half of the engine is about to be machined, I just used this as a test for the cnc router to save ruining a whole block of foam.
@OddsandEndsMachining ok what will you use v4 for? I also got thought of this engine cold pit it in long travel crosskart buggy. Engine would be in front of the vehicle with a car transmission and driveshafts
why don`t you melt out the foam from the sand before casting?
That’s not how the process works, otherwise the sand wouldn’t hold its shape. It would also add another unnecessary step to the process.
That would require a specific type of sand and in that case I would use reusable wooden patterns.
@@OddsandEndsMachining you can add a sodium silicate to sand, it will glue the sand into a soft brick. And then you can easily melt out the foam or even 3d-printed models, the sand will keep the shape