Banggood big sale has started from today (13) to June 25. Here are the links. www.banggood.com/marketing-hobby-day-sale/tid-46030.html?utmid=22328&p=PF13121622362201505M www.banggood.com/marketing-rc-toys-sale/tid-14360.html?utmid=22327&p=PF13121622362201505M
My friend helped me get into RC by letting me use a lot of spare parts and tools he had. Now that I have more rc stuff than I'd ever need, it's easy to help other friends get into RC that are intimidated by the costs
That's how we do it too me and my friend have similar cars and we share parts alot help a brother out that's the way. Also joining car groups on Facebook helps with problems u can ask the community for help 😉
When I first got into the rc hobby back in the late 80's there were no hobby grade rtr's. Starting with cheap electronics was the only option to start playing quickly.
Great video! What pitch is the spur gear? What tooth count? Am I able to use the Tamiya High Speed Spur Gear adapter on this chassis? Also, is this motor mount adjustable?
The motor mount is adjustable. The pitch is Mod 0.6, the same as Tamiya TT-01/TT-02. The stock spur is 61T. Yes, you can use the high speed kit on this one. It's basically Tamiya TT-01E with carbon plate. You'll need a pretty big pinion to make it work though. I use 23T pinion + 61T spur and on 10.5T motor it's nearly uncontrollably fast on a small track.
I'm just about to change from a flysky gt3c to a dumborc for my speedruns . My flysky has range interference issues. Shame I've modded it to 8ch but I've crashed too many cars now because of it. There good if u don't need lots of range. Not sure about that one u have seems like loose wires or bad solder joints on connectors. Pop the soldering iron out lol
I took G7P apart once and nothing seems amiss. I guess I'll have to look further on the board. It's such a nice radio to use. I have a modded GT3C as well but unfortunately the rotary switch broke so I don't use it anymore. To me the entry-level Flysky are not that good quality. I've got a Noble NB4 just after launched and it's been great, never missed a beat. DumboRC will be much more reliable than old Flysky AFHDS protocol for sure. It uses the same RF chip as Radiolink. The protocol is almost the same as well so it has very good response and resolution.
In my opinion, TT-01 would not be the best option to put those electronics on. TT-01 chassis is not designed for so much power and speed (the design does not change even with upgrade carbon and aluminium parts). Instead, some models by brands like Xpress or 3racing may do the job better (those cheap but capable ones usually use track to replace the axis). Those rtr models of TT-01 and TT-02 are often providing cheap electronics, partly to save cost, and also partly to fit the chassis. They are just not designed to be that fast. Upgraded with carbon and aluminium parts, the chassis won't break because of the speed, but it can be tricky to control the car. (I personally own a tamiya m05 and I put a 60A ecs on it)
Will see if this is too much for the chassis. I got the electronics while planning for Sakura D5 project that unfortunately didn't happen. If it doesn't work out then I might just swap it with the 3900KV sensorless I have. Or probably go brushed with Sport Tuned instead.
You can get an 1/10 rtr for 400 usd or less. But as stated. Often they do not have Lipo's, their electronics are most often than not substandard. The thing with hobbies is that they cost a lot. I started out with a 100 usd TT02 with 400 usd worth of upgrades on it. But the point of the hobby is that you built and race them. I don't see buying RTR as an easy way, but a lazy way. Don't get wrong, I do buy rtrs myself but I often upgrade them to a point that it makes building a rolling kit more sensible.
Have you tried to look for metal diff gears to upgrade this chassis? I did some research and went to the GMP racing website and I found some metal diff gears that is used to upgrade the tamiya tt-02 diff gears.from what I saw form your video looking at the diff gears on this RC chassis they are made of plastic and is very likely those gears are going to wear out especially using a brushless motor system and a 2s lipo battery it's very likely that the plastic gears are going to wear out a lot quicker over a short period of time I would like to see this issue addressed.
Yes, it uses the same diff as TT-01 and TT-02. I'm keeping it plastic for now and if the problem arise I will upgrade it to either Tamiya ball diff or Yeah Racing gear diff depending on whichever I can get. The gear will still be plastic and I think it's better that way because I don't like having metal filing in the gearbox. At least plastic from Tamiya or even Yeah Racing should be more durable than the original ones.
For me it cost 100€ in 2019 when I bought the BX-16 buggy. But as anything goes, it depends, if you go for top tier parts/brands it can cost €€€€, but if you're sensible it cost €€€.
Another question about the surpass rocket mini brushless motors, do you know of any heat sinks that fit those motors? I would think the small flat ones wouldnt fit , being that the surpass motors are completly round, also what modifications need to be done to a hobbywing 18A esc to be able to use a surpass hobby roket motor and the original batteries for the k969? is it just different connectors becuas the surpass motor i got doesnt come with any "connecters" and the battery socket is not the same as the mini lipos that the wltoys car comes with / uses.
You will need the heatsink for 1625/1410 brushless like this. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000623196046.html As for using EZrun with Surpass, you can either solder the wires directly to the motor but the wires are quite thick so you might want to use something like 22-20AWG on the motor side then use plug like banana or bullet 2mm to connect them together. As for the battery plug, replace to anything you like. The red plug is called JST RCY. The white balance plug is called JST-XH 2.5mm 3 pin, this is easier to plug and pull.
@@exemch4826 You don't need the middle pin for power. That plug has 3 pins because it's a balance plug for charging. It goes like this 1. + of the 1st cell 2. - of the 1st cell and + of the 2nd cell 3. - of the 2nd cell You need the + of the 1st cell and - of the 2nd cell for power.
@Beaver Hello, I'm a novice at drifting. I have new mini-z awd and have been practicing but am having trouble being able to get back end of car to swing out unless I cut wheel and do a donut - no counter steer to actually drift though. Could the Duracell alkalines combined with a slightly rough concrete garage floor be reason? Are PN Racings 750mah likely to help or am I expecting too much too soon? Thanks Beaver.
If the floor is too sticky or have some bumps like concrete floor then you will need locked diff for consistency and not spinning out when the wheels catch on something. You can lock the original diff by taking it apart and put a small piece of paper to block the gear as I did in this video th-cam.com/video/iuxbK1W18xQ/w-d-xo.html skip to 1:33 . Motor is not going to change much if the wheels are catching on the debris on the floor and you can do donuts already so there's at least enough power to slide. Solve the diff situation first then power later.
Banggood big sale has started from today (13) to June 25.
Here are the links.
www.banggood.com/marketing-hobby-day-sale/tid-46030.html?utmid=22328&p=PF13121622362201505M
www.banggood.com/marketing-rc-toys-sale/tid-14360.html?utmid=22327&p=PF13121622362201505M
My friend helped me get into RC by letting me use a lot of spare parts and tools he had. Now that I have more rc stuff than I'd ever need, it's easy to help other friends get into RC that are intimidated by the costs
That's how we do it too me and my friend have similar cars and we share parts alot help a brother out that's the way. Also joining car groups on Facebook helps with problems u can ask the community for help 😉
When I first got into the rc hobby back in the late 80's there were no hobby grade rtr's. Starting with cheap electronics was the only option to start playing quickly.
Thank you for the dynamic introduction! I wholly appreciate your ability to differentiate options for the masses!
That's awesome video information especially for beginners like me into the RC hobby, love it. Thanks buddy for sharing~
Great video! What pitch is the spur gear? What tooth count? Am I able to use the Tamiya High Speed Spur Gear adapter on this chassis? Also, is this motor mount adjustable?
The motor mount is adjustable.
The pitch is Mod 0.6, the same as Tamiya TT-01/TT-02.
The stock spur is 61T.
Yes, you can use the high speed kit on this one. It's basically Tamiya TT-01E with carbon plate. You'll need a pretty big pinion to make it work though.
I use 23T pinion + 61T spur and on 10.5T motor it's nearly uncontrollably fast on a small track.
Alright, thank you!
I'm just about to change from a flysky gt3c to a dumborc for my speedruns . My flysky has range interference issues. Shame I've modded it to 8ch but I've crashed too many cars now because of it. There good if u don't need lots of range. Not sure about that one u have seems like loose wires or bad solder joints on connectors. Pop the soldering iron out lol
I took G7P apart once and nothing seems amiss. I guess I'll have to look further on the board. It's such a nice radio to use.
I have a modded GT3C as well but unfortunately the rotary switch broke so I don't use it anymore. To me the entry-level Flysky are not that good quality. I've got a Noble NB4 just after launched and it's been great, never missed a beat.
DumboRC will be much more reliable than old Flysky AFHDS protocol for sure. It uses the same RF chip as Radiolink. The protocol is almost the same as well so it has very good response and resolution.
In my opinion, TT-01 would not be the best option to put those electronics on. TT-01 chassis is not designed for so much power and speed (the design does not change even with upgrade carbon and aluminium parts). Instead, some models by brands like Xpress or 3racing may do the job better (those cheap but capable ones usually use track to replace the axis).
Those rtr models of TT-01 and TT-02 are often providing cheap electronics, partly to save cost, and also partly to fit the chassis. They are just not designed to be that fast. Upgraded with carbon and aluminium parts, the chassis won't break because of the speed, but it can be tricky to control the car.
(I personally own a tamiya m05 and I put a 60A ecs on it)
Will see if this is too much for the chassis. I got the electronics while planning for Sakura D5 project that unfortunately didn't happen. If it doesn't work out then I might just swap it with the 3900KV sensorless I have. Or probably go brushed with Sport Tuned instead.
You can get an 1/10 rtr for 400 usd or less. But as stated. Often they do not have Lipo's, their electronics are most often than not substandard.
The thing with hobbies is that they cost a lot. I started out with a 100 usd TT02 with 400 usd worth of upgrades on it. But the point of the hobby is that you built and race them.
I don't see buying RTR as an easy way, but a lazy way. Don't get wrong, I do buy rtrs myself but I often upgrade them to a point that it makes building a rolling kit more sensible.
Have you tried to look for metal diff gears to upgrade this chassis?
I did some research and went to the GMP racing website and I found some metal diff gears
that is used to upgrade the tamiya tt-02 diff gears.from what I saw form your video looking at
the diff gears on this RC chassis they are made of plastic and is very likely those gears
are going to wear out especially using a brushless motor system and a 2s lipo battery
it's very likely that the plastic gears are going to wear out a lot quicker over a short period
of time I would like to see this issue addressed.
Yes, it uses the same diff as TT-01 and TT-02.
I'm keeping it plastic for now and if the problem arise I will upgrade it to either Tamiya ball diff or Yeah Racing gear diff depending on whichever I can get. The gear will still be plastic and I think it's better that way because I don't like having metal filing in the gearbox. At least plastic from Tamiya or even Yeah Racing should be more durable than the original ones.
The only time i buy RTRs is when the kit ONLY comes as an RTR. Putting the kit together is half the fun. Or maybe 30% of the fun.
So pretty.
For me it cost 100€ in 2019 when I bought the BX-16 buggy. But as anything goes, it depends, if you go for top tier parts/brands it can cost €€€€, but if you're sensible it cost €€€.
Would like to know if chassis top brace will fit on tt02
From what I see I don't think it will.
Another question about the surpass rocket mini brushless motors, do you know of any heat sinks that fit those motors? I would think the small flat ones wouldnt fit , being that the surpass motors are completly round, also what modifications need to be done to a hobbywing 18A esc to be able to use a surpass hobby roket motor and the original batteries for the k969? is it just different connectors becuas the surpass motor i got doesnt come with any "connecters" and the battery socket is not the same as the mini lipos that the wltoys car comes with / uses.
You will need the heatsink for 1625/1410 brushless like this. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000623196046.html
As for using EZrun with Surpass, you can either solder the wires directly to the motor but the wires are quite thick so you might want to use something like 22-20AWG on the motor side then use plug like banana or bullet 2mm to connect them together.
As for the battery plug, replace to anything you like. The red plug is called JST RCY. The white balance plug is called JST-XH 2.5mm 3 pin, this is easier to plug and pull.
@@BeaversHobby thank you!!
@@BeaversHobby for the JST-Xh plug do i need to add a ground wire? or would i just leave that pin empty?
@@exemch4826 You don't need the middle pin for power. That plug has 3 pins because it's a balance plug for charging.
It goes like this
1. + of the 1st cell
2. - of the 1st cell and + of the 2nd cell
3. - of the 2nd cell
You need the + of the 1st cell and - of the 2nd cell for power.
@Beaver Hello, I'm a novice at drifting. I have new mini-z awd and have been practicing but am having trouble being able to get back end of car to swing out unless I cut wheel and do a donut - no counter steer to actually drift though. Could the Duracell alkalines combined with a slightly rough concrete garage floor be reason? Are PN Racings 750mah likely to help or am I expecting too much too soon? Thanks Beaver.
If the floor is too sticky or have some bumps like concrete floor then you will need locked diff for consistency and not spinning out when the wheels catch on something. You can lock the original diff by taking it apart and put a small piece of paper to block the gear as I did in this video th-cam.com/video/iuxbK1W18xQ/w-d-xo.html skip to 1:33 .
Motor is not going to change much if the wheels are catching on the debris on the floor and you can do donuts already so there's at least enough power to slide. Solve the diff situation first then power later.
@@BeaversHobby I locked rear diff with paper as you and your video link advised. Much better performance and practice sessions.
Thank you Beaver.
@@EBthere My pleasure.
New sub! Liked 🙏🚀❤️
Anybody els think the box was the battery for a sec?
I just change my radio from Dumbo to kopropo hahhah daang it is a pit hole