I didn’t check the other replies, but also check the safety disconnects. Primer drag on some of the fired brass might mean the internals are a little sluggish.
Fellow 10mm fan! Thank you for your great content on this caliber! As a Californian, I’d really like to see an analysis of handloaded lead-free 10mm CA-legal-must have “expanding” bullet-hunting loads in both carbine and longer-barrel pistol, such as the G40. Following published recipes for Barnes’s 155 TAC-XP, my carbine is getting IMHO lame velocities around 1458 with Longshot. (No published loads for A#9, and Barnes wouldn’t provide any.) In contrast, I’m getting 1730ish for the same-weight Hornady 155 XTP for both A#9 and Blue Dot. Yes, I know case capacity is limited with lead-free and the pressure curve is different, but there has to be a way! I can always go to .44 Magnum et al, but, yeah, I’m a 10mm fanboy.
I was looking for something to play in the background as I loaded up some 10mm and your video popped up! Such a coincidence. I just did a search for Jagemann brass online and that stuff is no where in stock. The only bad part about loading 10mm is finding the brass afterwards! Great content. Love the channel.
great shooting and great loads Tom! I had a couple of XDms when they came out, and one thing that I noticed about them was this; the grip safeties were very particular about being absolutely fully depressed when firing and by that I mean, I had to really almost make it a point to physically be aware of the placement of the web of my hand purposefully having as much contact with the rear of the safety bar as possible. this may have been just an adjustment issue for the engagement surfaces inside the pistol. Never really checked it out much further, I liked em, and they shot well of course, but I did encounter the same issue as you have here. Might be worth considering.
Hmmm...interesting. this one has the PRP metal extended on it ( Absolute son of a gun to install 🤬🤬🤬) so IDK. Ill check er out soon though and keep that in mind. Thanks Brad!👍👍👊🦃
Can't wait to see what kind of spicy meatballs you come up with for that carbine.😁 I had mine at the range the other day, Grizzly 180 grain JHP is a hot one, 1326fps out of the 3.8" XDmE, upper 1400's out of the 8" Banshee, & mid 1500's from the LC Carbine.👍
@@Disastrous.Affect I have a Mechtech 10mm that I load 200g XTPs to 1400fps for (1130fps out of my G20). I consider most of the brass that comes out of the Mechtech to be unreloadable. It's ok from the G20. I'm interested in how the LG treats it. If its better, I might buy one.
@@davids8730 I am sure Turkey will have some spicy loads for this one and will likely be able to answer this better. I have not yet acquired the dies and such to reload 10mm. But I should have it in a few more weeks.👍
I shoot a Smith & Wesson SD40 ve I had the same problem when the gun was new to me I was used when I bought it I ended up just buying a new firing pin / striker assembly and that took care of my light primer strike problems that I was having. Got it for about 20 bucks on eBay or gun broker don't remember which. But yea it ended up being an easy fix to a huge(I thought) problem. Don't know if this helps but I figured I would pass along the information.... Also love your channel sir great content and trust worthy information. Thank you and keep doing what you doing man
Great shooting TTO! Great testing. I am concerned about the light strikes but it’s possible the striker/spring is wearing out with the heavy loads you’ve shooting. But I’d for sure run some light factory stuff to see if those have light strikes too. Sheesh, 10mm issues all around these days.
High primers ? Maybe firing pin spring …..all the hot loads….. also check your loading press and make sure the primer punch is tight and free of debris…I have had that happen and get primers that are not fully seated
Interesting cases. I have always bought Starline brass for revolver loads. Now that I have .40 dies it might be better to buy cheaper cases or range sweepings. I'm too old and crippled to chase brass. 😂 And, thank you.
Only problem with the black cases is if your pistol only has a small window for chamber load check, you can't see the case like you can brass, or even nickel. I've always found when a primer fires after a "light strike" or two, my primers were not seated deep enough. Subsequently every hit of the primer pushes the anvil closer to the pocket then it fires properly. I'd shoot some factory rounds to see if maybe the firing pin spring needs replaced or it's a primer seating issue. I wonder how these black cases would hold up to stainless pin wet tumbling. They look like a "stone wash" finish. Thanks..good test.
Good point on chamber peep holes. I like press checks but some dont. Ill check her out soon. I can assure you the primers are seated properly. Im crazy about checks on my reloads. And we did have a factory light strike too ☹️ 👍👊🦃
Seconding this! Some cases just have deeper primer pockets and some of the force of the firing pin or striker will be absorbed pushing the primer in slightly deeper on the first light strike or two followed by a more solid hit. Not sure what Turkey is using to prime cases, but adjusting the primer seating depth might be what is needed. I've had to do the same before using my frankford arsenal hand priming tool which has a nice adjustment knob for depth.
@@theturkeysopinion Yeah, I'm confident on your reloading, just thought I'd throw that out for the others. I'm sure it's something obvious on the light strikes like dirt or weak firing pin spring. You do shoot it a lot and with some hot loads so that poor girl, like you say, is a great little work horse. Stay Well
I used to be so nervous over light strikes, I still wouldn't play with a bullet with a light striked primer, I'd bury it. Would have liked to see the case thickness compared to Starline Brass. I seen another reloader make grenades with 10 grains of 800x so I'd like to make similar loads but dialed down a bit one day when I get to invest in reloading equipment. Guy made loads of 155gr XTP bullets going 1600fps out of velocity readings. Muzzle energy dangerously high at 900ft lbs.
Over in the " Valley" a reloader needs keep his eyes open for these...😅😊😊 Ya can differentiate loads using Powder Coated hard cast too!! (Hint hint!) 😊😊 Good stuff Turkey!!
I've found a few of those on the ground at my club. I've reloaded them a few times. They work fine but the one drawback is they are so hard to find after firing. If on dirt they look like heavily tarnished milsurp brass. On asphalt they blend in pretty good. On concrete they stick out like a sore thumb. On grass...well, they look like a snail hiding under a leaf. My experience with 10mm brass in general is it impossible to recover every piece you fire. I don't know where they go but I've lost pieces in a room with hardly any furniture, no cracks or crevices, and a light grey concrete floor. If I fire 100 and find 90 I'm doing good. I swear some of them have an invisibility cloak.
( primer trouble) Love your work thanks for going to the trouble to share so much great data in video. Looking at light and shine on the star line primers colored pink, (as a substitute for stereoscopic vision) they appear that they have not been sensitized (seated .003 below the primer pocket case rim) If this is a new problem then consider the priming technique is developing some slack. Ie. Hand primer tool development of wear or Lee turret press development of some slack. Of course you will be able to determine if the primers are less than sensitized depth with the depth gage on your calipers.
TTO that “Jag” stamped brass is what Liberty Civil Defense is loaded with, as well as the black cased variant. (Sure on the regular, I assume the civil defense 70 gr black case is also Jag) good shootin by the way. Im snowed in at work, so I appreciate the content sir!
Ya know, i was thinking that. But the overwatch is so much darker that it made me think these might be factory seconds..... That would make sense why they were cheap.🤔👍👍👍👊🦃
Make sure the slide is fully going into battery. Too much oil in the recoil spring guide and it acts like a piston. Had the same problem with the wife's 9mm XDM Elite.
Were all the light strikes with the coated Jag brass? Possibly, the coating is causing it not to go as deep into the chamber? Striker hits and the brass moves ever so slightly?
Man, rough day but digging those numbers. I'm still on the fence for a 10mm vs 45 super decision. I had loads of everything I shoot so I'm not worried about the Ammo
Props on the not flinching. More of and question is the crimp possibly allowing the case to chamber to far and increase headspace? Ive been loading 10mm for years now and use little if any crimp. And only in pcc doi need to crimp mostly for ease of chambering out of and ar pcc 10mm. Ive watched all of your 10mm videos and ive never seen you have so many light strikes. Not being critical just curious thanks for the video.
That's a LOT of crimp for a cartridge that headspaces on the case mouth. I suspect that had something to do with the light strikes. Did you case gauge those? That's why that one didn't want to come out. It had gone in too far and instead of headspacing on the mouth it was wedged against the crimp.
It could be but they all chamber checked 100% in barrel and checker. This has also happened with factory ammo. Plus the extractor on this gun is stong enough to hold 40s&w for multiple mags without failure. But thanks for the comment. I understand why it would be suspect👍👊🦃
So… like the color was from a fingernail polish type of lacquer which leaves a hardening resin (residue) So that would be 2 layers of coating on the (purple primers black cases) Nice trouble-shooting, my guess is that if this amount of debris is causing failure then there is a hiccup somewhere else which is getting worse.
@@theturkeysopinion I've loaded a Lot of 10mm. I'm also Very.....economically minded (cheap). Sometimes, after a full strength 10mm loading, (or a couple) I would notice primers would seat with no or very little resistance with the hand primer seater. Not wanting to throw away the brass or risk torching the breach face, I use nail polish or Markron primer sealer. After noticing the amount of color build up on the breach face, I changed to only putting the sealer at the primers edge/ primer pocket (low area) and wiping off the primer face.
Maybe the Jagemann brass is to blame. Possibly, out of spec primer pockets are letting you seat the primers just a tiny bit too deep. I think it was only that brass that had light strikes.
I wonder what the ideal powder is for those ultralight bullet weights, keep in mind 10mm standard loading is a 200gr at 1250fps, so i would think one should be able to hit 15-1600fps with a 150/155gr
1,200....it's 1,200 fps for a 200gr if we are talking about original comnercial Norma loads. 170 gr @ 1,300. So these numbers make total sense. Underwood "states' 1500 in a 5" barrel for 155 xtps. I get that with 13gr of blue dot in my 5" 1911 also. So we have to understand powder choice for this one is important. Its a fun load for me to keep around. But I do the blue dot dance too. 👍🦃👊
Idk....all my LP primers are from big batches that have been reliable so far. I know they are seated right. I think I've heard of this trigger doing it to others so I need to investigste it. Plus you saw the light strike on the one I checked but not the others. Guns suck sometimes👍🦃👊
No light primer strikes from the xdm. You crimped the rounds too much. The strkes pushed round into barrel. The crimp defeated the case head spacing. When you had trouble extracting the light strke it gave it away
They chambercheck perfectly in the checkers and the barrel. I can understand what you mean though. I just started questioning myself but then remembered we've done this with factory ammunition too. I can't remember if the test was published or if it's one I still have to edit. I appreciate the comment though👍🦃👊
That's not the greatest energy for those 150 grain noslers, considering that I can send the 155 grain XTPs @ 1500 FPS with less than 11 grains of a commonly used powder...
@FoulPet- the 1911 of pistols..?!..you don't know what you're talking about. 1911 is a "single action", while the Glock is an "a-typical double action" The Glock is also greatly more reliable than 1911s with various ammo.
@G79911997 I'm talking about innovation over the time period Einstein. Nothing has changed about the 1911 until recently, and nothing glock has done since its creation has affected the industry.
@tranformershoarder come on dude.... you know you are talking about an exception not a rule. Usually 40 is not above 550 ft lbs unless its pushing the limits a bit. I've loaded .40 s&w cases close to real 10mm levels ( because I was being dumb that day and self preservation was on vacation). It worked but I would'nt do it again. If nothing else, I realized I might trash my Carry gun and not even know it until I need it ( stressed but not broken, yet) So can you shoot hotter .40, sure. I can also steer you to a video of pressure testing ( but I wont because Im not gonna trash em ) of a 10mm load from one of these hotrod loving companies. The round was STUPID over pressured. And there is a reputation of this same company instant dismantling guns with that hotrod stuff. Ive also had a barrel blow up in my hands before so I do have an increased respect for pressure since then. Never trying to argue just to be a turd but I think you get my point. Thanks for watching as always Brother👍👊🦃
Interesting velocity out of What is functionally less than two inch barrel. But if you're going to Hot Load a gun with that short of barrel why are you using a large case. Only one was cratering. No real signs of overpressure. But I see you're having a Striker Fired problem of light primer strikes. That's why I'm not a big fan of Striker Fired pistols
It sound like it’s hitting the primer hard,, u can hear it snap on the video,, and I’ve never seen no better shooting polymer compact gun shoot as good as the xdm elite compacts,, I’ve got the 45, 10 and 9 mm ,, and all three are tack drivers,, it a shame Springfield discontinued the 45 and 9,
I agree, the gun is awesome. But, its not flawless. This happened on factory ammo off camera and I thought It to be a fluke. I was wrong. It is progressing. I did show a light strike towards the end. Usually actual bad primers wont go with restrikes. But hard cups or light strikes will go on the 2nd or 3rd almost every time unless you perfectly smoosh the cup to the anvil without igniting (very hard to do imo) We will investigate for sure👊👊👊🦃👍
No flinching on the light strikes… IMPRESSIVE!
👍👍👍🦃👊
Jagerman started out as a stamping and playing company and around 2010 or so branched out into cartridge brass.
Good info!👍👊🦃
Might be time to check the striker, striker spring, and channel in the slide
Shes clean but who know about springs at this point🤔 Ill check her out soon👍👊🦃
I didn’t check the other replies, but also check the safety disconnects. Primer drag on some of the fired brass might mean the internals are a little sluggish.
Run factory ammo and see if you have issues. The rate of "light strikes" is equal, it's not the primer, if not it might be the primer or the seating
Fellow 10mm fan! Thank you for your great content on this caliber!
As a Californian, I’d really like to see an analysis of handloaded lead-free 10mm CA-legal-must have “expanding” bullet-hunting loads in both carbine and longer-barrel pistol, such as the G40. Following published recipes for Barnes’s 155 TAC-XP, my carbine is getting IMHO lame velocities around 1458 with Longshot. (No published loads for A#9, and Barnes wouldn’t provide any.) In contrast, I’m getting 1730ish for the same-weight Hornady 155 XTP for both A#9 and Blue Dot. Yes, I know case capacity is limited with lead-free and the pressure curve is different, but there has to be a way!
I can always go to .44 Magnum et al, but, yeah, I’m a 10mm fanboy.
Every time I’ve seen you have a misfire. I’ve been pretty impressed by the absolute zero flinch.
Thanks man! I appreciate it. Thanks for watching!👍👊🦃👍👍👍
I had that problem on my Ruger SR45 as well. Lots of gunk in the striker channel prevented good strikes on the primer.
I was looking for something to play in the background as I loaded up some 10mm and your video popped up! Such a coincidence. I just did a search for Jagemann brass online and that stuff is no where in stock. The only bad part about loading 10mm is finding the brass afterwards! Great content. Love the channel.
great shooting and great loads Tom! I had a couple of XDms when they came out, and one thing that I noticed about them was this; the grip safeties were very particular about being absolutely fully depressed when firing and by that I mean, I had to really almost make it a point to physically be aware of the placement of the web of my hand purposefully having as much contact with the rear of the safety bar as possible. this may have been just an adjustment issue for the engagement surfaces inside the pistol. Never really checked it out much further, I liked em, and they shot well of course, but I did encounter the same issue as you have here. Might be worth considering.
Hmmm...interesting. this one has the PRP metal extended on it ( Absolute son of a gun to install 🤬🤬🤬) so IDK.
Ill check er out soon though and keep that in mind. Thanks Brad!👍👍👊🦃
@@theturkeysopinion Hope ya get it figured out quick! Damn fine grouping for sure!!
Thx for that brass intro!! Got to get a bag🎉🎉. 10mm the boss as usual🎉
For sure Brother! Thanks for watching!👊🦃👍
Can't wait to see what kind of spicy meatballs you come up with for that carbine.😁
I had mine at the range the other day, Grizzly 180 grain JHP is a hot one, 1326fps out of the 3.8" XDmE, upper 1400's out of the 8" Banshee, & mid 1500's from the LC Carbine.👍
Hole Mole!🔥😎🦃👍👊
How hard is the LC on brass? I would like to see a vid on that.
@@davids8730 I haven't seen anything obvious, but I also haven't reloaded any yet
@@Disastrous.Affect I have a Mechtech 10mm that I load 200g XTPs to 1400fps for (1130fps out of my G20). I consider most of the brass that comes out of the Mechtech to be unreloadable. It's ok from the G20. I'm interested in how the LG treats it. If its better, I might buy one.
@@davids8730 I am sure Turkey will have some spicy loads for this one and will likely be able to answer this better. I have not yet acquired the dies and such to reload 10mm. But I should have it in a few more weeks.👍
That was a pretty decent target you ended up with. Good video, hope you find the culprit as far as the light strikes. Thanks guys.
Thanks GB! We will figure it out🦃👍👊
Good video 👍 Love you video series. Especially 40 caliber.
I shoot a Smith & Wesson SD40 ve I had the same problem when the gun was new to me I was used when I bought it I ended up just buying a new firing pin / striker assembly and that took care of my light primer strike problems that I was having. Got it for about 20 bucks on eBay or gun broker don't remember which. But yea it ended up being an easy fix to a huge(I thought) problem. Don't know if this helps but I figured I would pass along the information.... Also love your channel sir great content and trust worthy information. Thank you and keep doing what you doing man
Great shooting....thats why I haven't put the PRP trigger kit in mine...very informative video thx
Great shooting TTO! Great testing. I am concerned about the light strikes but it’s possible the striker/spring is wearing out with the heavy loads you’ve shooting. But I’d for sure run some light factory stuff to see if those have light strikes too. Sheesh, 10mm issues all around these days.
High primers ? Maybe firing pin spring …..all the hot loads….. also check your loading press and make sure the primer punch is tight and free of debris…I have had that happen and get primers that are not fully seated
Interesting cases. I have always bought Starline brass for revolver loads. Now that I have .40 dies it might be better to buy cheaper cases or range sweepings. I'm too old and crippled to chase brass. 😂 And, thank you.
Right lol🦃👍👊
Only problem with the black cases is if your pistol only has a small window for chamber load check, you can't see the case like you can brass, or even nickel.
I've always found when a primer fires after a "light strike" or two, my primers were not seated deep enough. Subsequently every hit of the primer pushes the anvil closer to the pocket then it fires properly. I'd shoot some factory rounds to see if maybe the firing pin spring needs replaced or it's a primer seating issue.
I wonder how these black cases would hold up to stainless pin wet tumbling. They look like a "stone wash" finish. Thanks..good test.
Good point on chamber peep holes. I like press checks but some dont.
Ill check her out soon. I can assure you the primers are seated properly. Im crazy about checks on my reloads. And we did have a factory light strike too ☹️
👍👊🦃
Seconding this! Some cases just have deeper primer pockets and some of the force of the firing pin or striker will be absorbed pushing the primer in slightly deeper on the first light strike or two followed by a more solid hit. Not sure what Turkey is using to prime cases, but adjusting the primer seating depth might be what is needed. I've had to do the same before using my frankford arsenal hand priming tool which has a nice adjustment knob for depth.
@@theturkeysopinion Yeah, I'm confident on your reloading, just thought I'd throw that out for the others. I'm sure it's something obvious on the light strikes like dirt or weak firing pin spring. You do shoot it a lot and with some hot loads so that poor girl, like you say, is a great little work horse. Stay Well
I used to be so nervous over light strikes, I still wouldn't play with a bullet with a light striked primer, I'd bury it.
Would have liked to see the case thickness compared to Starline Brass. I seen another reloader make grenades with 10 grains of 800x so I'd like to make similar loads but dialed down a bit one day when I get to invest in reloading equipment. Guy made loads of 155gr XTP bullets going 1600fps out of velocity readings. Muzzle energy dangerously high at 900ft lbs.
800x is gone i think🫤 at least for now. But yeah, 900ft lbs is whoa for a 10😬
Not for sissy hands lol👊🦃👍
Over in the " Valley" a reloader needs keep his eyes open for these...😅😊😊
Ya can differentiate loads using Powder Coated hard cast too!! (Hint hint!) 😊😊
Good stuff Turkey!!
Right! Ill get my crap together one day🤣
And yeah, the valley is powdery this time of year...well all year👍👊🦃
@ 😜🤘🏼🙏🤘🏼😜
I've found a few of those on the ground at my club. I've reloaded them a few times. They work fine but the one drawback is they are so hard to find after firing. If on dirt they look like heavily tarnished milsurp brass. On asphalt they blend in pretty good. On concrete they stick out like a sore thumb. On grass...well, they look like a snail hiding under a leaf. My experience with 10mm brass in general is it impossible to recover every piece you fire. I don't know where they go but I've lost pieces in a room with hardly any furniture, no cracks or crevices, and a light grey concrete floor. If I fire 100 and find 90 I'm doing good. I swear some of them have an invisibility cloak.
( primer trouble) Love your work thanks for going to the trouble to share so much great data in video.
Looking at light and shine on the star line primers colored pink, (as a substitute for stereoscopic vision) they appear that they have not been sensitized (seated .003 below the primer pocket case rim)
If this is a new problem then consider the priming technique is developing some slack. Ie. Hand primer tool development of wear or Lee turret press development of some slack.
Of course you will be able to determine if the primers are less than sensitized depth with the depth gage on your calipers.
Check the striker & the roll pin that goes thru it. I've had problems with them before like that & went back to Glocks because of it.
Thanks for the info👍🦃👊
Always satisfying TTO 🤝🏿
Jag , in general, makes good brass.
thanks for video hopefully you figure out light primer strikes
TTO that “Jag” stamped brass is what Liberty Civil Defense is loaded with, as well as the black cased variant. (Sure on the regular, I assume the civil defense 70 gr black case is also Jag) good shootin by the way. Im snowed in at work, so I appreciate the content sir!
Ya know, i was thinking that. But the overwatch is so much darker that it made me think these might be factory seconds..... That would make sense why they were cheap.🤔👍👍👍👊🦃
Make sure the slide is fully going into battery. Too much oil in the recoil spring guide and it acts like a piston. Had the same problem with the wife's 9mm XDM Elite.
Its in battery.
Ill check it out👍👊🦃
Were all the light strikes with the coated Jag brass? Possibly, the coating is causing it not to go as deep into the chamber? Striker hits and the brass moves ever so slightly?
They all chamber checked 100%👍👊🦃 and no it was mixed.👍👍
That bad boy snappy 💯
Man, rough day but digging those numbers. I'm still on the fence for a 10mm vs 45 super decision. I had loads of everything I shoot so I'm not worried about the Ammo
Could it be time for a new firing pin/spring maybe?
cases like to go swimming... lol
Props on the not flinching.
More of and question is the crimp possibly allowing the case to chamber to far and increase headspace? Ive been loading 10mm for years now and use little if any crimp. And only in pcc doi need to crimp mostly for ease of chambering out of and ar pcc 10mm. Ive watched all of your 10mm videos and ive never seen you have so many light strikes.
Not being critical just curious thanks for the video.
Has the striker spring ever been replaced?
Thanks for sharing Turkey
New striker spring
I looked for that jagerman brass and it seems to be sold out everywhere🥴
That's a LOT of crimp for a cartridge that headspaces on the case mouth. I suspect that had something to do with the light strikes. Did you case gauge those?
That's why that one didn't want to come out. It had gone in too far and instead of headspacing on the mouth it was wedged against the crimp.
It could be but they all chamber checked 100% in barrel and checker. This has also happened with factory ammo. Plus the extractor on this gun is stong enough to hold 40s&w for multiple mags without failure. But thanks for the comment. I understand why it would be suspect👍👊🦃
Is there any bullet manufacturing company that makes a similar type bullet of the Hornady bullets or Federal HST & Punch bullets?
I'm betting the light strikes could be from the color added to the primers?
100%🦃👍👊
So… like the color was from a fingernail polish type of lacquer which leaves a hardening resin (residue)
So that would be 2 layers of coating on the (purple primers black cases)
Nice trouble-shooting, my guess is that if this amount of debris is causing failure then there is a hiccup somewhere else which is getting worse.
@@theturkeysopinion I've loaded a Lot of 10mm. I'm also Very.....economically minded (cheap). Sometimes, after a full strength 10mm loading, (or a couple) I would notice primers would seat with no or very little resistance with the hand primer seater. Not wanting to throw away the brass or risk torching the breach face, I use nail polish or Markron primer sealer. After noticing the amount of color build up on the breach face, I changed to only putting the sealer at the primers edge/ primer pocket (low area) and wiping off the primer face.
@christopherrollins5450 totally joking.
Its marker....
👍🦃👊
@chrisyoung7527 its the trigger setup imo. That was just a sharpie.👍🦃👊
👍🏻👍🏻
Valley? Out of stock at 1730EST😢
Yeah.... and darn it🫤🫤🫤
👍👊🦃
I wonder how often they get it. I got a couple emails about it. Bought it twice👍👊🦃
Do it side by side with the Delta and then you'll know if it's the primer or the Springfield.
Maybe the Jagemann brass is to blame. Possibly, out of spec primer pockets are letting you seat the primers just a tiny bit too deep. I think it was only that brass that had light strikes.
first ones were regular brass so not the jagers
@TuttleScott ah, you're right. Well, there goes my theory.
you rule breaker ....
Maybe the brass is out of spec, as in just a bit too short. Would help if you'd have measured the case length.
40s&w shoots just fine in this gun👊🦃👍
I wonder what the ideal powder is for those ultralight bullet weights, keep in mind 10mm standard loading is a 200gr at 1250fps, so i would think one should be able to hit 15-1600fps with a 150/155gr
1,200....it's 1,200 fps for a 200gr if we are talking about original comnercial Norma loads. 170 gr @ 1,300.
So these numbers make total sense.
Underwood "states' 1500 in a 5" barrel for 155 xtps. I get that with 13gr of blue dot in my 5" 1911 also. So we have to understand powder choice for this one is important. Its a fun load for me to keep around. But I do the blue dot dance too.
👍🦃👊
People like 800x too but cant get it anymore. Hope all this helps👍🦃👊
I continue to struggle with which new 10mm to buy. Sigh
This one is real nice imo🦃👍👊
❤️
G29...
@@donaldmonroe8503 👆dont listen to this guy lol. He gets commision
Don't struggle buy the 10 mm guns you crave.
Hmmm I’m thinking primers are sus only because if it was the firearm the light strikes would be happening more?
Idk....all my LP primers are from big batches that have been reliable so far. I know they are seated right. I think I've heard of this trigger doing it to others so I need to investigste it. Plus you saw the light strike on the one I checked but not the others. Guns suck sometimes👍🦃👊
Not 100% sure, but i thought Jageman makes Sig brass.
Well that would be a good sign👍 hmmm.🤔
🦃👍👊
No light primer strikes from the xdm. You crimped the rounds too much. The strkes pushed round into barrel. The crimp defeated the case head spacing. When you had trouble extracting the light strke it gave it away
They chambercheck perfectly in the checkers and the barrel. I can understand what you mean though. I just started questioning myself but then remembered we've done this with factory ammunition too. I can't remember if the test was published or if it's one I still have to edit.
I appreciate the comment though👍🦃👊
Wouldn't you also have to defeat the extractor? You can fire .40 in those guns pretty reliably.
@@chrisruthford4492 100%👍👊🦃
@@chrisruthford4492 great point. And weve done it plenty. Even .357 sig lol
@@theturkeysopinion Very interested to see what you find out
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That's not the greatest energy for those 150 grain noslers, considering that I can send the 155 grain XTPs @ 1500 FPS with less than 11 grains of a commonly used powder...
Glock 29 rules ! 😂
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Glock is the 1911 of the plastic pistols. Nothing new for 100 years
@FoulPet- the 1911 of pistols..?!..you don't know what you're talking about. 1911 is a "single action", while the Glock is an "a-typical double action"
The Glock is also greatly more reliable than 1911s with various ammo.
@G79911997 I'm talking about innovation over the time period Einstein.
Nothing has changed about the 1911 until recently, and nothing glock has done since its creation has affected the industry.
140 grain Lehigh Defense extreme penetrators, should try next
That’s no more powerful than 40 Smith & Wesson
Did you hit your head?🤔
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@ see for yourself. Try “Atomic 155gr 40S&W JHP, never mind what it says on the box… they are hot. Over 1375 fps out of a 4”.
there's too many factors to say. Weather, altitude, guns and chronographs can make it all vary unless you're testing side by side.
@tranformershoarder come on dude.... you know you are talking about an exception not a rule. Usually 40 is not above 550 ft lbs unless its pushing the limits a bit. I've loaded .40 s&w cases close to real 10mm levels ( because I was being dumb that day and self preservation was on vacation). It worked but I would'nt do it again. If nothing else, I realized I might trash my Carry gun and not even know it until I need it ( stressed but not broken, yet)
So can you shoot hotter .40, sure.
I can also steer you to a video of pressure testing ( but I wont because Im not gonna trash em ) of a 10mm load from one of these hotrod loving companies. The round was STUPID over pressured. And there is a reputation of this same company instant dismantling guns with that hotrod stuff. Ive also had a barrel blow up in my hands before so I do have an increased respect for pressure since then.
Never trying to argue just to be a turd but I think you get my point.
Thanks for watching as always Brother👍👊🦃
Interesting velocity out of What is functionally less than two inch barrel. But if you're going to Hot Load a gun with that short of barrel why are you using a large case. Only one was cratering. No real signs of overpressure. But I see you're having a Striker Fired problem of light primer strikes. That's why I'm not a big fan of Striker Fired pistols
It sound like it’s hitting the primer hard,, u can hear it snap on the video,, and I’ve never seen no better shooting polymer compact gun shoot as good as the xdm elite compacts,, I’ve got the 45, 10 and 9 mm ,, and all three are tack drivers,, it a shame Springfield discontinued the 45 and 9,
I agree, the gun is awesome. But, its not flawless. This happened on factory ammo off camera and I thought It to be a fluke. I was wrong. It is progressing. I did show a light strike towards the end. Usually actual bad primers wont go with restrikes. But hard cups or light strikes will go on the 2nd or 3rd almost every time unless you perfectly smoosh the cup to the anvil without igniting (very hard to do imo)
We will investigate for sure👊👊👊🦃👍