Awesome video. My front ride was super harsh and bouncy. I thought accumulators at first. Then I found this video. Checked the pressures and the front was WAY high. 13 turns on my torsion bars later - front pressure is on the low end of good and it rides like a dream. Can't thank you enough!
This sounds exactly like my LX. I also suspect I’m going to need new accumulators but the ride is not as bouncy, just harsh. There is not much difference between comfort and sport and won’t go into high. It feels like my tire pressure is 50PSI. I just got tech stream today and my front pressure is 8.4MPa and rear 7.4MPa. I’ll do some adjustments next weekend and see what happens.
I miss my AHC on my 100. I have icon remote res on it now, and it doesn't ride as good. Sure I can abuse it a little by more offroad, but 99.9999% of use, I'd rather have AHC. If I ever get into another 100, I'll keep the AHC. Thanks for your contributions on mud any youtube.
Lol now the question is how much money will it cost those guys to convert back? I purchased a lx470 with a bouncy ride. I'm gonna do a fluid flush soon if that doesn't work I'm definitely gonna purchase the globes. I purchased it for road trips mainly.
Regarding the rear springs, there are a few choices including non-AHC springs and 80 series springs in different rates. One thing I would mention is that the AHC has better articulation than non-AHC, partly due to the design of the shock actuators (no damping internals to take up travel length) but also, due to softer mechanical spring rates. If it were me, I would probably want to use either an off the shelf or a custom spacer to set the proper preload while still keeping the softer rate of the Kings vs the stifer non-AHC springs. Despite the fact that the 16-position dampers have a decent range of effectiveness, overspringing can overwhelm them.
This is a beautifully done step by step guide that a lot of professional mechanics can use to brush on their skills as many need it unfortunately. Many thanks for your time as to make a video of this quality takes a lot of it a part from obvious knowledge you have. Cheers from Australia
BEAUTIFUL instructional vid.. very professional.. I was looking at a GX but decided I want one of these instead.. adn the AHC is one thing I love about it-- since I will NOT be "rock crawling" - just basic offroading on servcie roads, snow etc..
I totally agree. There are a lot of good reasons to keep AHC. We loved it on our lx470. And now with our LX570 it is even better. Superior comfort is nice, but the main thing for us is towing advantages. It keeps the suspension exactly where it was designed to be and tows very well with AHC.
I have a friend who has this program, does a lot of work on his trucks, a 470 and 570. He says the 470 is a smoother ride than the 570. I asked him as I was shocked to see how smooth a 470 was recently vs a 570 I drove.
@@sevillianc our LX570 was definitely more comfortable than our LX470. If he is seeing a better ride on his LX470 the first thing I would think is that his LX570 needs to have the AHC fluid flushed to get air bubbles out and get fresh fluid in there. And also make sure that the level sensors are set to stock height. Some people adjust the level sensors to raise the truck you higher and that really ruins the ride quality
He’s the one who told me some of what is in this video, so I’d think he had done all that? Who knows. Thanks for your reply, helpful while I’m looking/trying to decide!
Amazing information in this video, thank you so much for sharing this! Trying to research what I might be getting into with an AHC model 100 with maintenance and repair. Lots of people post about deleting it, but to me it looks like a great system for 50/50 road duty. This is a perfect step by step which gives me plenty of confidence to dive on in. Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful! In my opinion, nearly all of the AHC fear is driven by grossly incorrect repair estimates given by mechanics that don't understand the fundamentals of the system and its predictable maintenance needs. If you keep pressures where they should be, maintain fluid and replace globes every decade or so, it's robust as hell and about as expensive as any other premium suspension in a conventional spring/shock setup.
@@user-df1gh8le6l Makes total sense... fear of the unknown or the non-typical system. All I need is a decent factory service manual or a good YT video and I am ready to go to town. Sometimes I find wrenching almost as therapeutic as driving. Thanks again.
Wonderful video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on the subject. I readily recognize the effort involved in not only doing your repair, but the additional effort with teaching and creating the video. I have liked and subscribed. I will plan to check my pressures soon.
wow, great video. Came here from ih8mud. On your cheat sheet, might want to include a line to plug temp sensor back in (line 6.c.?). I hear you say it in the video, but I'll probably only be looking at the cheat sheet in my driveway and not watching/listening to video. Thanks!!
Yota, I have been struggling with Techstream software for a week now. I ordered a cable Techstream V17 J2534 with the CD. There were no instructions and limited info. I also downloaded the online version that is posted in IM8 Forum labeled "How to tech stream in 5 min" . YOu are by far the BEST, , logically organized video about this process of AHC for LX 470 and LC. HOWEVER.. what NO one ever talks about is the CODE - its like 50 characters starting with thirty ones (1111......... that you need to register to operate. After i got the software to load on my HP and started to open it, it asked for the KEY CODE, just like an anti-virus or any other software requires. I even called tech stream info @ 877-762-7666 and spoke to someone. He said that I need to PAY $60 for a 2 day period or $1100 for a year's license!! so, how are people using this Techstream program, and nobody mentions this license fee? How did you use it? Please PM or respond asap , as i am going to have to return my mini VC cable and figure out another way to get access to this TECHSTREAM
Kevin, I think you need to go back to that thread and re-read. The software should have that code bypassed. Techstream is not generally intended for the public so the pricing model is laughable for DIY work. You don't need a code, but calling Toyota/Techstream will be unhelpful because they're not going to help you borrow their software for free. :)
Techstream is available from Toyota for a few thousand or via a large number of online copies that people have made available for free. Google "techstream in 5 minutes". There are also some select aftermarket readers that can access AHC info, but I can't suggest anything specific there.
Hey MD. Had rear pressures over 10 when I went through the sheet a few months ago. Recently had 8 people in the LX using the 3rd row seats. About 400 lbs in the rear put me down in L on the AHC. I didn't try to raise for fear that I would damage my suspension with way too much pressure in the rear. I swapped out to a set of Dobinsons C59-269V that are basically stock height. Can't tell the difference in the before and after pics. Ride quality is a little stiffer but not at all uncomfortable. My question is that now my pressure in the rear is very low, down to 4 lbs. Am I doing any damage to the AHC with pressures that low?
If your pressures are low, you're just not letting AHC (or more accurately AVS) do as much as it could. You can expect a harsher ride. Those springs are designed to lift the car 1.75" (on an 80 series) which I believe means at stock height in a 100 they will have more than factory spring rate. That's a very safe approach, but the ride will be harder than Toyota/Lexus intended. Personally, I would switch to King springs, perhaps with 30mm spacers.
Hi, thank you for the great video. I tried to use my techstream V12 and it is not showing the AHC pressures you have demonstrated. I have a 2002 LX470. thanks.
Air bags are good for occasional loads. If the car is always going to be heavier due to bumpers, storage systems, etc... Then springs are the way to go.
My shocks are starting to weep. Nothing dripping to the ground but would this be an indicator my pressures are too high or do I need to order new ahc shocks? Try a flush first or forget it and just replace shocks I case seals are starting to deteriorate?
Definitely check pressures first. If your pressures are high (they almost certainly are unless you've checked and adjusted previously) then you can expect perfectly healthy shocks to weep. Always check pressures first.
Oh for sure. I spent the first five-ish years of my career determined to use only the metric system. It's fine if you're doing something by yourself but if you're trying to convey information to other Americans nobody has a metric tape measure or a metric ruler so we're stuck just living in this antiquated inch pound foot ounce world.
I just replaced my globes, and was following your cheat sheet which is very helpful. My problem is that I do not have any pressure in the rear. I did replace my rear springs with old man emu. It looks like the rear is sitting a little bit higher than it used to. I tried to bleed the rear and I could not get any of the new suspension fluid to come out. Is there something I did wrong? Or do I need to do something different like adjusting the height sensor??The front pressure measure 7.9. In both my front height measurements were about 20.25 in the rear measurements 22.5
Tim, it sounds like those OME springs are way too much for your rig. Generally, the OME springs are incompatible with AHC unless you've added some insane weight - more than full steel trail armor. You need weaker springs so that some of the weight is held by the AHC system. Right now, those rear springs are doing 100% of the work and there's nothing left for AHC to manage. If you jumped from original Lexus/Toyota springs to any of the OME springs you skipped about 4-6 steps, haha. Lexus OEM, Toyota OEM, 30mm spacers, King Springs, LX450 springs, Toyota non-AHC OEM, THEN start looking at aftermarket non-AHC. Swap those OME coils out with something much weaker and try again.
Great video👍 I installed my king springs last year and I've been happy with them so far.. no spacers.. waiting to see if you you go that route.. my rear pressure were 5.4 after install with accumulators at 9.3. With this I had to adjust my rear height sensor to bring the sweet spot.
Great video, very informative. I’d love to keep the AHC. Mine is functioning perfectly but the hydraulic lines are too corroded. All four would need to be replaced. I was told parts and labor would be high. It’s a ticking time bomb. I’m going with an Ironman FCP setup
I'm in the same boat. Looking underneath, it's looking like every single line would need to be replaced. So it's looking like around $4.5k to keep the AHC and get it working, versus around $2.5k to delete it and install an ironman kit. I think it would be neat, but not that neat.
Thanks - I’ve just bought one and it’s had the AHC delete done already. Hearing the problems and cost of repair makes me feel better about it being missing. Would have been cool to have the choice but glad to have Old Man Emu suspension kit instead now
Provided you have average sized passengers, I don't think that's necessary, but I would make sure you test pressures with as much gear as you plan to have.
Great video, nice rig! Just one thing to mention. Take a look at "FR Height Adjust" and "RR Height Adjust" params. These constant values were entered into AHC ECU through Techstream Utility function, by previous owner maybe. Someone was lazy enough to physically adjust sensors and entered these correction values sitting in a car :) ECU is using them in conjunction with height sensors' readings to 'derive' actual heights. They must be zeroed in Utility section before adjusting AHC properly. And you will probably have to readjust sensors' control arms a bit after messing with "Height Adjust" values.
Whoa, thank you for that! I had not noticed that. That's a great thing to check and I should probably enter that in the next Rev of that cheat sheet. Kudos!
No adjustment needed, my friend. I had to massage the front fender liner plastic just a touch with my 295/70/17. For 285/70/17 on a stock-ish offset wheel you should be good to go.
@@janramos1162 Correct. There is no change required to height settings with or without AHC. The 100 is a bit unique in that vehicle lift has little to do with tire fitment. :)
So I am building my LX470 for overlanding. I plan to set it up just like yours. However I will use the 3rd row for family and guests. What springs would you recommend or spacers?
Would lowering the rear ride height a bit help reduce the pressure in the rear by shifting more of the load to the springs? I would rather do this than get new springs if that is the case. Can anyone confirm?
Yes, that would work, but keep in mind you'll be killing ride quality if you go much lower. You'll hit the bump stops on rough roads. I'd consider spring spacers before lowering the sensors.
@@user-df1gh8le6l you’re the man! That makes sense I will look into spacers or new springs. This video has been a lifesaver. Its wild how hard it has been to find good information on AHC until this. Thank you!
Question - Noticing you have checking gradations as the last step on the cheat sheet - I've got an '03 showing between 6 and 7 gradations right now - if I go through all the steps of tuning up the AHC, will I see an improvement in gradations or should I just bite the bullet and get new globes before I even bother? In other words, does doing the tuneup have any impact on gradations? I have a feeling the two are unrelated (since the globes and hydraulic fluid are separately sealed systems) but wanted to check. Thanks for a great video.
Great video. This is off topic But nobody seems to know what’s going on and you seem very knowledgeable. I’m having an issue with my 2004 lx470 after installing a low miles used transmission. It’s having an issue shifting from 1 to 2 to 3rd gear where it goes into gear at a higher rev and a thump. Once it goes into 4 and 5th there is no problem. Giving me a P0771 solenoid E code. Transmission came from a operable perfectly running lx which had been involved in an accident. I appreciate any help you can give me.
Looking at a Land Cruiser with AHC it has 150k miles and lived its life in California 99% rust free. Should I be concerned with AHC and move on to another LC ? Don't wanna remove ach and replace I like stock stuff
Is it possible for the function of the shock absorbers/pressure to change on its own? I have a low garage, so I drive in and park my car in LO mode. I feel like the suspension works quite poorly afterward, but after driving for a while in HI mode and then returning to neutral height, the comfort is definitely better.
Fantastic video. Thank you! My FL and FR values are off at -(0.4) and (0.3), respectively. My pressures seem fine and I recently replaced the rear height sensor and checked the front sensors. I know I need to even things out in front but I'm confused as to why I should do so by adjusting the torsion bars rather than adjusting the sensors. Will you please clarify?
The 100:series AHC hydraulics can only adjust height front and rear. There's no ability for the 100 series to adjust the AHC side by side. The sensors are used on each side to provide valuable insight to vehicle behavior, but active control of height side by side was not a part of the 100 series design. Therefore, torsion bars control the side to side variance. AHC controls the summed height (within it's pressure limits).
Awesome video. I just replaced my shocks with Toyota originals ones from a dealer as the old ones were leaking and now i find the turn switch to adjust from from soft to performance or hard doesn't feel like it is working and I just come back from a 2400km long trip and i had issues with the Height adjustment it was in the N mode and when i drove for 3hrs in dropped on it guts to L, i pulled over on the expressway and turned off the car for a few minuted and then started it up and again and it went to the N height i drove a few kms and it dropped again to L and repeated the process again and then drove all the way up to my destination.12hrs away . I had 4 adults and 1 child and fully loaded with our luggage all up probably about 80kg of luggage ... WHY do you thing it dropped like that ? thank you PS the steering felt very touchy and light as when you went into a corner you had to back off cause it felt like it dipping in and understeer, tyres were at 40psi
Excellent video, so my ‘05 was actually not consistently going from L to N to H, seems that it was the front driver side height sensor, replaced that and now it goes between all 3 no problem. But now when I went to measure my pressures they’re really high even when I go to L where my pressures should be “0”, not sure where to go from here, don’t trust the N reading since the reading is about the same in L. Does this mean globe or actuator failure?
@@user-df1gh8le6l Sorry for the late response here, so still weird stuff, as I tried it a second time, restarting the car (while still in N height), connected to TechStream, and my pressures were now reading "0" both front & back, so then I went down to L at that point, and front sensor was reading 5.6, and rear sensor was reading "0" still. Tried going up to N again and the pressures settled in at 7.9 in the front, and 6.8 for the rear which is pretty consistent with what I was seeing in my first attempt, despite never seeing the pressures zero out in the L mode.
Another update: so just going off the 7.9 front and 6.8 rear numbers, I decided to try my luck with adjusting the torsion bars to lower those front pressures a bit, and adjusted them according to instructions, and it did seem the lower the front pressures down to an acceptable level, was then getting around 6.4 in front, no change in rear obviously. So feeling pretty pleased with that, I decided to try doing what looked like the easy step, which was doing a fluid flush, since I was getting at least 7~ graduations as recommended. Flush was going fine until I got to the step for bleeding the pump actuator (middle point on the driver side), and despite using PB Blaster, the bleed valve just snapped off when I tried to apply enough pressure to crack the bleed screw. At that point I decided to just stop right there so as not to possibly screw anything else up. So I was able to 1.) drain the old fluid from the reservoir, bleed old fluid from the other 4 points, started car and allowed system to respressurize, but did not perform the 2nd bleed until I saw the new / fresh fluid coming out. I was hoping I'd be ok, and after testing moving between L - N - H it did seem to be working fine, so I drove it about 30 mins home, fine all the way. But then when I stopped to gas up, turned the car off, gassed up, started car again to drive rest of way home and the AHC "Off" light started blinking, and now it will not come out of L anymore. Fluid in the reservoir is still a bit above the max level, so it seemingly has plenty of fluid, so doesn't seem I lose any. But at a loss now. Wishing I hadn't tried the flush as the AHC was at least working before I did that. :(
I am considering a new front bumper and but would like to keep the AHC. What bumper did you put on? What was the impact to AHC that you had to deal with? I was going to put on the IRONMAN or the SLEE Blueberry. They are quite heavy. What do you think I need to do to the AHC?
I went with the Dissent in aluminum. I just adjusted the factory torsion bars a few turns to keep pressures on the low end of spec. If you go heavy on the bumper and a winch, you may want to go with non-AHC LC torsion bars to increase your spring rate up front. It's all about neutral (and high) pressures.
I just bought an lx and I think someone may have adjusted sensors previously for a small sensor lift. Without a “benchmark” for sensor position would you still follow this process and end up back to factory specs? If you were wanting to do a sensor lift, would your height readings in tech stream read 1.5 for example at the end of this process?
Hello, not sure if anyone has asked but could you help me figure out how to get tech stream setup & what all is needed? I have a dedicated PC laptop but that's it, so any advice would me MUCH appreciated? Thanks for letting me know not to remove my hydraulic shocks; I was about to. Best, Bill
Thanks so much for this video! I have a 2003 with 253K and I Iove the AHC and was already happy with the ride. I checked my pressures and the front was at 7.3 so I marked and cranked the torsion bars until it now reads 6.5 and rides even better!! My rear is still at 6.3, without installing King Springs, what options do I have to get the rear in specs? Adding spacers? Thanks!
Hi and thank you for a terrific video. I have an 06 with 100nk miles. Came out of Illinois so fair amount of rust. My wife’s car. No off roading etc. ahc was on low when I bought it and have replaced some lines 3 years ago and all was fine. Recently it’s blowing fluid from around the block on the center left. Ahc works ok but every once in awhile it blows fluid. I can see the wet area but I can’t reproduce the leak on demand by just raising and lowering it. I think it happens when loaded up. Any idea why it won’t blow fluid just raiding and lowering alone? How can I reproduce this leak to replace the culprit? Thanks for looking
Makes sense that you'd see leaking at higher loads (and therefore hydraulic pressures). I think there's a device in that area called an attenuator. It lessens the shocks from the pump. Never seen a leak there, but could be happening for you. Can't offer much more than to clean and inspect until you find the source.
Watched this again and was wondering about the Globes. I have only about 8 graduation changes. The truck has 178k. Thinking about doing the globes as a regular Maintenance item. However was thinking to only do 2 at a time. Is there a way to tell which are the worst? Is it better to do the ones on the same side or better to do both fronts or both rears? Thanks
Unfortunately I don't think you can check front rear separately unless you fabricate your own hydraulic test bench setup. If you're at 8 and no one corner is obviously 100% blown I think chances are good that all your globes are dead or near death. I would replace all of them. There was a great priced exporter on the forums recently. $700 or so shipped for a full set of genuine globes.
I am hesitant to do that for legal reasons. Are you using the files from the techstream in 5 minutes thread? I recall the install being very short and simple. Hard for any of it to go wrong. I've installed it three times and every time was very fast and simple.
@@user-df1gh8le6l yes I tried to install using those steps on my old macbook and wouldn’t even load techstream. Then I tried on my windows 7 laptop and it tried to load but still fails to boot and gives me a similar error. I posted for help in that thread too.
Great Vid. Liked and Sub'd Have an 06 with AHC and the rear shocks are showing their age with rust but still working (Drivers Rear is the worst). Would you recommend getting new from Toyota or Used off ebay?
I'd check pressures first. If you need a lot of help to get pressures down, maybe you can justify King springs. If not, I'd go used OEM if they're easy to find.
What techstream setup did you use? I'm shopping around and have seem everything from a $50 Amazon OBD2 cable to a $1200 subscription. I'm trying to save money but need it to work
Awesome video as usual. One question would bad pressures cause a jumpy ride or bad globes. I will definitely go through your checklist. I recently changed the AHC fluid and it helped a little but still a little to jumpy. Mine will go from low to high no problem too.
A jarring ride is usually bad globes from what I've read. They are the shock absorbers in the system. No globe, no shock absorber, no give in the suspension = harsh ride. Super easy to check, just skip to step 7. If pressures and heights are off you can skew step 7 results to some degree, but if you get terrible results on step 7 and you know the globes are 10+ years old, I'd put money on it that they're due for replacement.
Hi MD , I have a question . If I want to raise the Height 1-2inch on Neutral ahc position. Would that be OK? I know in the cheat sheet u said, neutral should be 0.0" reading . Thank you
I never advise a sensor lift, but you can do it if you're so inclined. 1" is fine enough. 2" is pushing it. Inevitably it's increased wear on cvs and inferior driving dynamics on the road. If you perform the sensor lift, it will still read "0.x"". The system always seeks zero. You're just changing what "zero" is.
@@user-df1gh8le6l I just bought 265/65R18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers for my stock 04 LX 470. I wish I would have gone bigger for looks. Any pros/cons for the 275/70R18 on a stock vehicle with AHC? I am primarily on road with a little light off-roading, and still have a CJ5. Thanks!
Thanks for the video, I replaced the 4 accumulator the ride is comfortable on big bumps but on small holes in road and damage road I feel it hard in car, the suspension not leaking but I think it’s from factory 375k km, any advice ?
I had a local Toyota dealer replace all 4 shocks. Also had them do an ACH fluid flush. They are saying that the L is flashing on the dash and that the truck is stuck in the low position. I sent them your instructions that are on your website, cheat sheet, and told them to try step 3. They said the pump and everything else about the ACH system seemed to be working fine. Do you have any other recommendations or things they should check?
@@user-df1gh8le6l I need to ask the mechanic at Toyota about the pressures. They bypassed the switch inside the truck that you push to change between low, neutral, and high, to see if the pump would turn on, and it did. When they try to push the up arrow on the button to go in the to neutral height, nothing happens and the L is still flashing on the dash. Should they completely drain the entire ACH system and start the procedure over again?
Anyone know where to get replacement AHC shocks? Are there aftermarket ones or only factory? Mine squeak like crazy and have done everything I can think of, but can't get rid of it so I think they're just shot
Genuine Toyota/Lexus only. I wouldn't expect a shock to squeak. Have you replaced the bottom bushing and the two top cushions? and all the sway bar bushings? And the upper and ower control arm bushings? And Ball joint? ;)
@@user-df1gh8le6l Those are all going to be my first steps, so I'm hoping that was the cause of the squeak and not the shock itself. It doesn't squeak (as much) in High AHC mode, which is why I was wondering about the shock. 330k miles on this LX470 :). Thanks for the advice!
Not on the 06, no. I did replace my rear lower control arms on my 99. That helped reduce a good amount of highway shimmy over bumps. Low speed bumps felt less sloppy as well. I'm anxious to do the 06, just haven't made it that far down my to-do list in a while... :/
@@DRSLEEPEN I did SPC arms. If you're adventurous with a press (and dremel/grinder as needed) you can get just the bushings for way less than the entire arm (SPC or OEM).
@@user-df1gh8le6l Thanks again! I've did an AHC flush earlier this year but had never hooked up TechStream and adjusted torsion bars. Was able to do that today thanks to this video. Just FYI the USB only would work for me if I went in the VirtualBox settings for Devices > USB > then selected the VCI cable.
@@Tahakamee I'm not sure what you mean by a screw wrench, but you should be using a 30mm socket on a big breaker bar. Like a 2 foot bar. It takes a ton of force.
@@user-df1gh8le6l I meant the adjustable wrench. So mine front pressures are 7.9 and the rear is 7.3. Vehicle is completely stock no weight added and it’s full of gas. Going to turn torsion bar clockwise using the wrench 🔧 and would jack up the one of the front wheel, then I think it would be easier to turn torsion nut. Would also do the other wheel. I know it would be time consuming but this seems to be the easy way. If I had breaker bar then it would be frictionless. Thanks for reply :)
Ah. Ok. Adjustable wrench is definitely the wrong tool for that job. Buy yourself a real breaker bar and 30mm socket before you smash your hand with an open end adjustable.
Really appreciate for this video, thanks! My 2002 vx limited has weird steering angle, its always does -6.75 degree steering angle every time i turn the key to igniton, so i must manipulate the system to make it 0.00 degree again. Do you have solutions? Thanks in advance!
The steering angle often shows a ridiculous number. It's not a measure of the steering wheel, but actually a gear in the rack/linkage. Don't work about it. You're all good.
@@user-df1gh8le6l Thank you for your quick reply, but isn't it affected the stiffnes of the suspension when it goes over -30° or +30°? I read it on ih8mud forum. But yes maybe you are right, its just a number, thanks man 👍
The 200 series (LX570) is slightly different in design, but the core principles are the same. Pressures need to be checked and kept in line and the globes can wear out and yield a harsh ride. Articulation will be dependent on each specific kit and I'm not terribly familiar with the 200 options. For the 100, most the standard lift kits have similar OR LESS articulation than the OEM suspension. The get a lift and more articulation you generally need to alter/replace the A arm geometry along with the shocks/springs in a cohesive package. This tends to be in the "long travel kit" category and represents a tiny sliver of the "lift kit" market for the 100 (and I assume the 200 is similar).
Hi Do you need some great lighting for your car to help you better driving, off-road. We're the pro auto lighting manufacturer for nearly 20 year and we're looking for sponsorship!
@@romannagorkin Nothing wrong with them, I just want more sidewall for comfort/grip offroad so I'm going with a smaller wheel and thicker tire. KO2 are great in my experience. A little noisy once they're a few years old, but overall very good for an aggressive AT.
@@user-df1gh8le6l awesome video, thanks for putting this out and available. I just upgraded to a 2006 LC100 series with AHC and looking to build it up. Question: any rubbing with the 275/70/18?
This may be a stupid question, but if the AHC destroys itself while your out of town, can you still drive on it? or will it further damage things/leave you stranded?
Generally, if it fails in the worst way possible, you'll be driving on or near the bumpstops. It would be very uncomfortable, but drive able. You wouldn't want to drive in it longer than you have to, but you're unlikely to do much damage if you drive slowly and carefully. It's definitely a risk, but I believe it's a small one and one that can be largely mitigated with proper maintenance.
Great video. Thanks for making it! Also, what kind of Mazda is that? My wife drives a CX-5 GT AWD. Great little run around town car for her. And let’s be honest, feels like a sports car next to the LX.
@@user-df1gh8le6l Indeed. We have two growing girls. 11&9. And they wish we always drove the Lexus. 😆 It fills up fast and we will HAVE to the the LX on the Christmas trip just for the space.
@@MissouriAdventures Yeah, no kidding. Funny how relative the space aspect is once you throw a kid or two into the mix. Even the LX fills up fast with a car seat or two, a stroller and a few overnight bags.
@@user-df1gh8le6l We came from an Excursion. 7.3 Powerstroke. So it’s been an adjustment for sure. I miss that rig. Even if it is still sitting in my driveway. Best way to go camping with a family is with an Ex. Because everything fits. Haha
my front end was at 19.25" , was level, front pressures were 8.4, did 10 turns, got down to 6.4 with me in it. then i adjusted sensors to get to roughly 19.7" on the front, got another 1/2 turn out of my passenger side, no more threads :(. is it possible to get more out of the torsion bar? like take it apart and spline it in further counter clockwise so i get more torsion out of it, or am i just going to need to get new torsion bars?
@@Cxkxxx yeah it was a HUGE difference for me, was at 8.4 originally, got it to 6.2 with car empty, then i decided to go from 19.25" to just under 19.75" and i couldnt get it into spec, i think im at 7.1 in the front now, but still night and day difference. i will be indexing
@@AnthraxVX Yeah I think that is my problem, after four new globes my ride still like shit. Now I just need to figure it out how to make the rusty tbar adjustment bolts turn
@@user-df1gh8le6l hi I'm currently adjusting the torsion bars with the sensor you said to disconnect it reads 6.1 and 2.7 with it connected it reads 6.1 and 6.5. Fr-.03 fl-0.0 rr- 0.2. I've been cranking mostly the passenger front it was at - .4 for a while after several small cranks. What I find weird is rear stays at 6.5 but my front is 6.1. I think I'm going out of spec. What should I do. Is the 2.7 value with the plug disconnected the real value. And I'm way overcranking. But if I back off the turns again my front height my go. Negative.
Need clarification. Which numbers are front and which are rear? The 2.7 is not a real value. low numbers like that normally mean you didn't wait long enough after raising to n to record the value.
@@user-df1gh8le6l the 2.7 would be rear. Thats with the sensor by the resevoir disconnected. Maybe I'm jumping the gun. It seems to refresh everything but that.
Try a few more cycles and see what numbers you get. None of those numbers are high so you probably don't need much more torsion adjustment. 6.1 up front is a little low. Might have to back off those front bars.
Man. No kidding about mechanics not being familiar with these. Just spoke with a mechanic who only deals with Toyota and Lexus and he was t familiar with any of this at all. Suggested I buy a used sequoia.. vs a LX470.
why did you decide not to go with an senor lift? does it make for a harder ride, or have trouble going in to High? P.S. you forgot to link the cheat sheet.
I don't think the sensor lift helps anything aside from looking "cool". On the highway, you really don't want a lift. On trails, the H setting is plenty high. Cheat Sheet: Yes, sorry! I'm uploading it now to facebook, instagram and I'll see if I can get it linked here.
There's not much benefit to a static suspension lift on an IFS vehicle. You aren't gaining any max suspension travel or tire clearance since you haven't changed the pivot points of the front suspension, just where the tires sit in the suspension arc. AHC High is plenty high enough. It's also "true" lift, measured at the sensor, not "net" lift which is whatever's left on a conventional spring lift after sag. Not to mention that the AHC has an automatic "extra-high" mode that adds an additional inch of lift if it senses that the vehicle is high centered. You get all of that without the negatives of a static lift: worse MPG, accelerated wear on drivetrain components, needing a diff drop (which reduces clearance) and potentially dangerous lack of down travel.
Mine goes up and down in about half the time yours does. Does that mean the system is healthier? It’s stock. New to me 2004 purchased in March. Still lots to learn.
I think that speaks to pump/motor/fluid/globe/accumulator condition, but in some conflicting ways. If you have dead globes, the volume of fluid needed to move up or down is less and might be faster. Conversely if your pump and accumulator are really healthy, I could see that reducing time in a good way. From what I read from others, time to raise or lower is hard to use for diagnostics unless it takes longer than a minute or so.
Awesome video. My front ride was super harsh and bouncy. I thought accumulators at first. Then I found this video. Checked the pressures and the front was WAY high. 13 turns on my torsion bars later - front pressure is on the low end of good and it rides like a dream. Can't thank you enough!
Glad you got experience it working better! Free fixes are the best fixes.
This sounds exactly like my LX. I also suspect I’m going to need new accumulators but the ride is not as bouncy, just harsh. There is not much difference between comfort and sport and won’t go into high. It feels like my tire pressure is 50PSI. I just got tech stream today and my front pressure is 8.4MPa and rear 7.4MPa. I’ll do some adjustments next weekend and see what happens.
@@luisvallejos1301 Same here - I bought a set of accumulators but I'm going to start with the worksheet and see how the torsion bar fixes things.
I miss my AHC on my 100. I have icon remote res on it now, and it doesn't ride as good. Sure I can abuse it a little by more offroad, but 99.9999% of use, I'd rather have AHC. If I ever get into another 100, I'll keep the AHC. Thanks for your contributions on mud any youtube.
Great video YotaMD. You distilled roughly 11 million posts and threads into an easy-to-follow step by step method for trouble shooting the AHC system!
I heard way too many times that if I got an LX is should ditch the AHC immediately. thanks for posting this. It's a good system!
Hopefully the tide is turning! Lots of good documented info now that wasn't always common knowledge. The unknown can be scary.
Lol now the question is how much money will it cost those guys to convert back? I purchased a lx470 with a bouncy ride. I'm gonna do a fluid flush soon if that doesn't work I'm definitely gonna purchase the globes. I purchased it for road trips mainly.
Regarding the rear springs, there are a few choices including non-AHC springs and 80 series springs in different rates. One thing I would mention is that the AHC has better articulation than non-AHC, partly due to the design of the shock actuators (no damping internals to take up travel length) but also, due to softer mechanical spring rates. If it were me, I would probably want to use either an off the shelf or a custom spacer to set the proper preload while still keeping the softer rate of the Kings vs the stifer non-AHC springs. Despite the fact that the 16-position dampers have a decent range of effectiveness, overspringing can overwhelm them.
Awesome feedback. I made the decision today to try the spacers from Slee first. If that's not enough I'll dive deeper, but I hope that's all it needs.
This is a beautifully done step by step guide that a lot of professional mechanics can use to brush on their skills as many need it unfortunately.
Many thanks for your time as to make a video of this quality takes a lot of it a part from obvious knowledge you have.
Cheers from Australia
BEAUTIFUL instructional vid.. very professional.. I was looking at a GX but decided I want one of these instead.. adn the AHC is one thing I love about it-- since I will NOT be "rock crawling" - just basic offroading on servcie roads, snow etc..
This was one of the best instructional car repair maintenance videos I have ever witnessed. Thank you. I will do this to my 05 Lexus this weekend
I liked your motivational words " NO need to scared" 😊
I totally agree. There are a lot of good reasons to keep AHC. We loved it on our lx470. And now with our LX570 it is even better. Superior comfort is nice, but the main thing for us is towing advantages. It keeps the suspension exactly where it was designed to be and tows very well with AHC.
I have a friend who has this program, does a lot of work on his trucks, a 470 and 570. He says the 470 is a smoother ride than the 570. I asked him as I was shocked to see how smooth a 470 was recently vs a 570 I drove.
You think your 570 is more comfortable?
@@sevillianc our LX570 was definitely more comfortable than our LX470. If he is seeing a better ride on his LX470 the first thing I would think is that his LX570 needs to have the AHC fluid flushed to get air bubbles out and get fresh fluid in there. And also make sure that the level sensors are set to stock height. Some people adjust the level sensors to raise the truck you higher and that really ruins the ride quality
He’s the one who told me some of what is in this video, so I’d think he had done all that? Who knows. Thanks for your reply, helpful while I’m looking/trying to decide!
@@sevillianc you got it. Love to see all the land cruise content. Keep up the great work!
Great video! I need a cheat sheet like this for my LX 570. Never even thought about tuning all these things.
Amazing information in this video, thank you so much for sharing this! Trying to research what I might be getting into with an AHC model 100 with maintenance and repair. Lots of people post about deleting it, but to me it looks like a great system for 50/50 road duty. This is a perfect step by step which gives me plenty of confidence to dive on in. Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful! In my opinion, nearly all of the AHC fear is driven by grossly incorrect repair estimates given by mechanics that don't understand the fundamentals of the system and its predictable maintenance needs. If you keep pressures where they should be, maintain fluid and replace globes every decade or so, it's robust as hell and about as expensive as any other premium suspension in a conventional spring/shock setup.
@@user-df1gh8le6l Makes total sense... fear of the unknown or the non-typical system. All I need is a decent factory service manual or a good YT video and I am ready to go to town. Sometimes I find wrenching almost as therapeutic as driving. Thanks again.
Wonderful video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on the subject. I readily recognize the effort involved in not only doing your repair, but the additional effort with teaching and creating the video. I have liked and subscribed. I will plan to check my pressures soon.
What a fantastic video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
Great video and content, 04LX time to understand all the drama about AHC, great tutorial. New subscriber
wow, great video. Came here from ih8mud. On your cheat sheet, might want to include a line to plug temp sensor back in (line 6.c.?). I hear you say it in the video, but I'll probably only be looking at the cheat sheet in my driveway and not watching/listening to video. Thanks!!
Good video! Shouldn't you be sitting in the driver's seat (or someone close to your weight) to measure the cross level?
Do you have any tips for replacing the globes? Proper procedure, etc?
Not yet, no. Ih8mud has tons of good info. I think the needed wrench is a common ford fan clutch wrench.
Yota, I have been struggling with Techstream software for a week now. I ordered a cable Techstream V17 J2534 with the CD. There were no instructions and limited info. I also downloaded the online version that is posted in IM8 Forum labeled "How to tech stream in 5 min" . YOu are by far the BEST, , logically organized video about this process of AHC for LX 470 and LC.
HOWEVER.. what NO one ever talks about is the CODE - its like 50 characters starting with thirty ones (1111......... that you need to register to operate. After i got the software to load on my HP and started to open it, it asked for the KEY CODE, just like an anti-virus or any other software requires. I even called tech stream info @ 877-762-7666 and spoke to someone. He said that I need to PAY $60 for a 2 day period or $1100 for a year's license!! so, how are people using this Techstream program, and nobody mentions this license fee? How did you use it?
Please PM or respond asap , as i am going to have to return my mini VC cable and figure out another way to get access to this TECHSTREAM
Kevin, I think you need to go back to that thread and re-read. The software should have that code bypassed. Techstream is not generally intended for the public so the pricing model is laughable for DIY work. You don't need a code, but calling Toyota/Techstream will be unhelpful because they're not going to help you borrow their software for free. :)
I struggled until I realized that using a 32 bit version of windows is the way to go. Once I used windows XP, the install went easy.
Thanks for this video, this is really helpful. One question: Where do I get the data stream software?
Techstream is available from Toyota for a few thousand or via a large number of online copies that people have made available for free. Google "techstream in 5 minutes". There are also some select aftermarket readers that can access AHC info, but I can't suggest anything specific there.
Hey MD. Had rear pressures over 10 when I went through the sheet a few months ago. Recently had 8 people in the LX using the 3rd row seats. About 400 lbs in the rear put me down in L on the AHC. I didn't try to raise for fear that I would damage my suspension with way too much pressure in the rear. I swapped out to a set of Dobinsons C59-269V that are basically stock height. Can't tell the difference in the before and after pics. Ride quality is a little stiffer but not at all uncomfortable. My question is that now my pressure in the rear is very low, down to 4 lbs. Am I doing any damage to the AHC with pressures that low?
If your pressures are low, you're just not letting AHC (or more accurately AVS) do as much as it could. You can expect a harsher ride. Those springs are designed to lift the car 1.75" (on an 80 series) which I believe means at stock height in a 100 they will have more than factory spring rate. That's a very safe approach, but the ride will be harder than Toyota/Lexus intended. Personally, I would switch to King springs, perhaps with 30mm spacers.
Hi, thank you for the great video. I tried to use my techstream V12 and it is not showing the AHC pressures you have demonstrated. I have a 2002 LX470. thanks.
Can I ask why not use airbags to aid the existing springs instead of replacing them with heavy-duty King springs?
Air bags are good for occasional loads. If the car is always going to be heavier due to bumpers, storage systems, etc... Then springs are the way to go.
@@user-df1gh8le6l I see your point. Thank you for the reply.
My shocks are starting to weep. Nothing dripping to the ground but would this be an indicator my pressures are too high or do I need to order new ahc shocks? Try a flush first or forget it and just replace shocks I case seals are starting to deteriorate?
Definitely check pressures first. If your pressures are high (they almost certainly are unless you've checked and adjusted previously) then you can expect perfectly healthy shocks to weep. Always check pressures first.
This is a golden tutorial! Thank you . Where can I get a copy of your cheat sheet ?
Google ahc YotaMD and I believe that will pop up. There's a page on my site with that sheet
Nice informational video. Can you make adjustments to pressures on a LX570 without torsion bars?
I am unfamiliar with the mechanics of the 200 series AHC. Sorry!
200/570 have coilover, use shims.
Owner of an -08 200 V8 diesel AHC
5:10 omg how easy this would've been if you'd use the metric system instead =D
Oh for sure. I spent the first five-ish years of my career determined to use only the metric system. It's fine if you're doing something by yourself but if you're trying to convey information to other Americans nobody has a metric tape measure or a metric ruler so we're stuck just living in this antiquated inch pound foot ounce world.
I just replaced my globes, and was following your cheat sheet which is very helpful. My problem is that I do not have any pressure in the rear. I did replace my rear springs with old man emu. It looks like the rear is sitting a little bit higher than it used to. I tried to bleed the rear and I could not get any of the new suspension fluid to come out. Is there something I did wrong? Or do I need to do something different like adjusting the height sensor??The front pressure measure 7.9. In both my front height measurements were about 20.25 in the rear measurements 22.5
Tim, it sounds like those OME springs are way too much for your rig. Generally, the OME springs are incompatible with AHC unless you've added some insane weight - more than full steel trail armor. You need weaker springs so that some of the weight is held by the AHC system. Right now, those rear springs are doing 100% of the work and there's nothing left for AHC to manage. If you jumped from original Lexus/Toyota springs to any of the OME springs you skipped about 4-6 steps, haha. Lexus OEM, Toyota OEM, 30mm spacers, King Springs, LX450 springs, Toyota non-AHC OEM, THEN start looking at aftermarket non-AHC. Swap those OME coils out with something much weaker and try again.
Great video👍 I installed my king springs last year and I've been happy with them so far.. no spacers.. waiting to see if you you go that route.. my rear pressure were 5.4 after install with accumulators at 9.3. With this I had to adjust my rear height sensor to bring the sweet spot.
Great video, very informative. I’d love to keep the AHC. Mine is functioning perfectly but the hydraulic lines are too corroded. All four would need to be replaced. I was told parts and labor would be high. It’s a ticking time bomb. I’m going with an Ironman FCP setup
I'm in the same boat. Looking underneath, it's looking like every single line would need to be replaced.
So it's looking like around $4.5k to keep the AHC and get it working, versus around $2.5k to delete it and install an ironman kit. I think it would be neat, but not that neat.
Thanks - I’ve just bought one and it’s had the AHC delete done already. Hearing the problems and cost of repair makes me feel better about it being missing.
Would have been cool to have the choice but glad to have Old Man Emu suspension kit instead now
Thanks for the video! What about passenger weight? Should we add bags of sand for passengers???
Provided you have average sized passengers, I don't think that's necessary, but I would make sure you test pressures with as much gear as you plan to have.
Heater T’s been checked?
Yeah, Slee replaced them at the 90k service around 190k
Thank you so much for being such a helpful expert to the community! I’m having trouble finding King springs that fit a 2007 - any suggestions?
eBay!
Great video, nice rig!
Just one thing to mention. Take a look at "FR Height Adjust" and "RR Height Adjust" params. These constant values were entered into AHC ECU through Techstream Utility function, by previous owner maybe. Someone was lazy enough to physically adjust sensors and entered these correction values sitting in a car :)
ECU is using them in conjunction with height sensors' readings to 'derive' actual heights. They must be zeroed in Utility section before adjusting AHC properly. And you will probably have to readjust sensors' control arms a bit after messing with "Height Adjust" values.
Whoa, thank you for that! I had not noticed that. That's a great thing to check and I should probably enter that in the next Rev of that cheat sheet. Kudos!
How do you adjust for a bigger tire? running 285/70/17.
No adjustment needed, my friend. I had to massage the front fender liner plastic just a touch with my 295/70/17. For 285/70/17 on a stock-ish offset wheel you should be good to go.
@@user-df1gh8le6l Oh. I mean for AHC ride height adjustment/tune up. Do you still target 19.5 up front and 20.5 on the rears?
@@janramos1162 Correct. There is no change required to height settings with or without AHC. The 100 is a bit unique in that vehicle lift has little to do with tire fitment. :)
Is it possible that your sensor could be causing a harsh riding experience
Would an OME 2" lift rear springs on the rear work? Or is that too much? To reduce pressure in the rear?
Way too much. Oem LC springs are pretty extreme for AHC, except the most heavy loaded rigs. The OME lift springs would be overkill and then some.
So I am building my LX470 for overlanding. I plan to set it up just like yours. However I will use the 3rd row for family and guests. What springs would you recommend or spacers?
Gotta check pressures. :)
Would lowering the rear ride height a bit help reduce the pressure in the rear by shifting more of the load to the springs? I would rather do this than get new springs if that is the case. Can anyone confirm?
Yes, that would work, but keep in mind you'll be killing ride quality if you go much lower. You'll hit the bump stops on rough roads. I'd consider spring spacers before lowering the sensors.
@@user-df1gh8le6l you’re the man! That makes sense I will look into spacers or new springs. This video has been a lifesaver. Its wild how hard it has been to find good information on AHC until this. Thank you!
Question - Noticing you have checking gradations as the last step on the cheat sheet - I've got an '03 showing between 6 and 7 gradations right now - if I go through all the steps of tuning up the AHC, will I see an improvement in gradations or should I just bite the bullet and get new globes before I even bother? In other words, does doing the tuneup have any impact on gradations? I have a feeling the two are unrelated (since the globes and hydraulic fluid are separately sealed systems) but wanted to check. Thanks for a great video.
Great video. This is off topic But nobody seems to know what’s going on and you seem very knowledgeable. I’m having an issue with my 2004 lx470 after installing a low miles used transmission. It’s having an issue shifting from 1 to 2 to 3rd gear where it goes into gear at a higher rev and a thump. Once it goes into 4 and 5th there is no problem. Giving me a P0771 solenoid E code. Transmission came from a operable perfectly running lx which had been involved in an accident. I appreciate any help you can give me.
Looking at a Land Cruiser with AHC it has 150k miles and lived its life in California 99% rust free. Should I be concerned with AHC and move on to another LC ? Don't wanna remove ach and replace I like stock stuff
Hello, I have an AHC bulb that disappeared from the dashboard. What could be the problem?
Is it possible for the function of the shock absorbers/pressure to change on its own? I have a low garage, so I drive in and park my car in LO mode. I feel like the suspension works quite poorly afterward, but after driving for a while in HI mode and then returning to neutral height, the comfort is definitely better.
Is that a custom bar on top of your dissent off road bumper?
Fantastic video. Thank you! My FL and FR values are off at -(0.4) and (0.3), respectively. My pressures seem fine and I recently replaced the rear height sensor and checked the front sensors. I know I need to even things out in front but I'm confused as to why I should do so by adjusting the torsion bars rather than adjusting the sensors. Will you please clarify?
The 100:series AHC hydraulics can only adjust height front and rear. There's no ability for the 100 series to adjust the AHC side by side. The sensors are used on each side to provide valuable insight to vehicle behavior, but active control of height side by side was not a part of the 100 series design. Therefore, torsion bars control the side to side variance. AHC controls the summed height (within it's pressure limits).
@@user-df1gh8le6l Thanks very much!
Fantastic work! Thanks
Awesome video. I just replaced my shocks with Toyota originals ones from a dealer as the old ones were leaking and now i find the turn switch to adjust from from soft to performance or hard doesn't feel like it is working and I just come back from a 2400km long trip and i had issues with the Height adjustment it was in the N mode and when i drove for 3hrs in dropped on it guts to L, i pulled over on the expressway and turned off the car for a few minuted and then started it up and again and it went to the N height i drove a few kms and it dropped again to L and repeated the process again and then drove all the way up to my destination.12hrs away . I had 4 adults and 1 child and fully loaded with our luggage all up probably about 80kg of luggage ... WHY do you thing it dropped like that ? thank you
PS the steering felt very touchy and light as when you went into a corner you had to back off cause it felt like it dipping in and understeer, tyres were at 40psi
What are your neutral pressures?
40psi cold? Isn’t that too high?
Excellent video, so my ‘05 was actually not consistently going from L to N to H, seems that it was the front driver side height sensor, replaced that and now it goes between all 3 no problem. But now when I went to measure my pressures they’re really high even when I go to L where my pressures should be “0”, not sure where to go from here, don’t trust the N reading since the reading is about the same in L. Does this mean globe or actuator failure?
What are the pressures? Do they ever change?
@@user-df1gh8le6l Sorry for the late response here, so still weird stuff, as I tried it a second time, restarting the car (while still in N height), connected to TechStream, and my pressures were now reading "0" both front & back, so then I went down to L at that point, and front sensor was reading 5.6, and rear sensor was reading "0" still. Tried going up to N again and the pressures settled in at 7.9 in the front, and 6.8 for the rear which is pretty consistent with what I was seeing in my first attempt, despite never seeing the pressures zero out in the L mode.
Another update: so just going off the 7.9 front and 6.8 rear numbers, I decided to try my luck with adjusting the torsion bars to lower those front pressures a bit, and adjusted them according to instructions, and it did seem the lower the front pressures down to an acceptable level, was then getting around 6.4 in front, no change in rear obviously. So feeling pretty pleased with that, I decided to try doing what looked like the easy step, which was doing a fluid flush, since I was getting at least 7~ graduations as recommended. Flush was going fine until I got to the step for bleeding the pump actuator (middle point on the driver side), and despite using PB Blaster, the bleed valve just snapped off when I tried to apply enough pressure to crack the bleed screw. At that point I decided to just stop right there so as not to possibly screw anything else up. So I was able to 1.) drain the old fluid from the reservoir, bleed old fluid from the other 4 points, started car and allowed system to respressurize, but did not perform the 2nd bleed until I saw the new / fresh fluid coming out. I was hoping I'd be ok, and after testing moving between L - N - H it did seem to be working fine, so I drove it about 30 mins home, fine all the way. But then when I stopped to gas up, turned the car off, gassed up, started car again to drive rest of way home and the AHC "Off" light started blinking, and now it will not come out of L anymore. Fluid in the reservoir is still a bit above the max level, so it seemingly has plenty of fluid, so doesn't seem I lose any. But at a loss now. Wishing I hadn't tried the flush as the AHC was at least working before I did that. :(
This is awesome man thank you
Where did u get your Tech Stream. I bought Tech Stream once and had issues with it.
ih8mud. Techstream in 5 Minutes.
I am considering a new front bumper and but would like to keep the AHC. What bumper did you put on? What was the impact to AHC that you had to deal with? I was going to put on the IRONMAN or the SLEE Blueberry. They are quite heavy. What do you think I need to do to the AHC?
I went with the Dissent in aluminum. I just adjusted the factory torsion bars a few turns to keep pressures on the low end of spec. If you go heavy on the bumper and a winch, you may want to go with non-AHC LC torsion bars to increase your spring rate up front. It's all about neutral (and high) pressures.
I am facing difficulties in getting height sensors to be at 0’m
Yes, a bad height sensor will give you a poor ride and the car will hunt around for 0.
Excellent video! Do you have a new link for that cheat sheet of yours? It’s necessary!
Yes, thanks for the reminder. Reorganizing the site, hadn't posted that again yet. Here it is! www.yotamd.com/blogs/news/ahc-info
I just bought an lx and I think someone may have adjusted sensors previously for a small sensor lift. Without a “benchmark” for sensor position would you still follow this process and end up back to factory specs? If you were wanting to do a sensor lift, would your height readings in tech stream read 1.5 for example at the end of this process?
Hello, not sure if anyone has asked but could you help me figure out how to get tech stream setup & what all is needed? I have a dedicated PC laptop but that's it, so any advice would me MUCH appreciated? Thanks for letting me know not to remove my hydraulic shocks; I was about to. Best, Bill
You want the ih8mud thread "techstream in 5 minutes". :)
Where did you get the connector for the car computer
Amazon
Thanks so much for this video! I have a 2003 with 253K and I Iove the AHC and was already happy with the ride. I checked my pressures and the front was at 7.3 so I marked and cranked the torsion bars until it now reads 6.5 and rides even better!! My rear is still at 6.3, without installing King Springs, what options do I have to get the rear in specs? Adding spacers? Thanks!
Spacers would probably be good. They tend to be worth .5 so that would get close to a good pressure.
Excellent work.
Hi and thank you for a terrific video. I have an 06 with 100nk miles. Came out of Illinois so fair amount of rust. My wife’s car. No off roading etc. ahc was on low when I bought it and have replaced some lines 3 years ago and all was fine. Recently it’s blowing fluid from around the block on the center left. Ahc works ok but every once in awhile it blows fluid. I can see the wet area but I can’t reproduce the leak on demand by just raising and lowering it. I think it happens when loaded up.
Any idea why it won’t blow fluid just raiding and lowering alone? How can I reproduce this leak to replace the culprit? Thanks for looking
Makes sense that you'd see leaking at higher loads (and therefore hydraulic pressures). I think there's a device in that area called an attenuator. It lessens the shocks from the pump. Never seen a leak there, but could be happening for you. Can't offer much more than to clean and inspect until you find the source.
Thanks for the great explanation! Does Techstream work for Lexus 1999? How do you connect it with this model?
Watched this again and was wondering about the Globes. I have only about 8 graduation changes. The truck has 178k. Thinking about doing the globes as a regular Maintenance item. However was thinking to only do 2 at a time. Is there a way to tell which are the worst? Is it better to do the ones on the same side or better to do both fronts or both rears? Thanks
Unfortunately I don't think you can check front rear separately unless you fabricate your own hydraulic test bench setup. If you're at 8 and no one corner is obviously 100% blown I think chances are good that all your globes are dead or near death. I would replace all of them. There was a great priced exporter on the forums recently. $700 or so shipped for a full set of genuine globes.
@@user-df1gh8le6l I will have a look. Thanks
Did you jack the car before adjusting the torsion bar? Great video!!!!
I set it into H, but I did not jack anything up.
@@user-df1gh8le6l Thanks!
Is it dangerous to get under the car with height control at its highest? Is there any chance the car will start sagging?
Can you fit a 35" tire with a AHC
Step 2 - Is this done on M or does it matter?
Great Video thank you!
Hello there thanks for the advise. I was just wondering where to get the Techstream ? Thanks.
Hi! Could you do a complete install of Techsteam? Im not having any luck.
I am hesitant to do that for legal reasons. Are you using the files from the techstream in 5 minutes thread? I recall the install being very short and simple. Hard for any of it to go wrong. I've installed it three times and every time was very fast and simple.
@@user-df1gh8le6l yes I tried to install using those steps on my old macbook and wouldn’t even load techstream. Then I tried on my windows 7 laptop and it tried to load but still fails to boot and gives me a similar error. I posted for help in that thread too.
@@cscorny I struggled until I realized that using a 32 bit version of windows is the way to go. Once I used windows XP, the install went easy.
Great Vid. Liked and Sub'd Have an 06 with AHC and the rear shocks are showing their age with rust but still working (Drivers Rear is the worst). Would you recommend getting new from Toyota or Used off ebay?
I'd check pressures first. If you need a lot of help to get pressures down, maybe you can justify King springs. If not, I'd go used OEM if they're easy to find.
This is great! Do you have anything on the VGRS system adjustment after alignment?
No sir!
What techstream setup did you use? I'm shopping around and have seem everything from a $50 Amazon OBD2 cable to a $1200 subscription. I'm trying to save money but need it to work
Awesome video as usual. One question would bad pressures cause a jumpy ride or bad globes. I will definitely go through your checklist. I recently changed the AHC fluid and it helped a little but still a little to jumpy. Mine will go from low to high no problem too.
A jarring ride is usually bad globes from what I've read. They are the shock absorbers in the system. No globe, no shock absorber, no give in the suspension = harsh ride. Super easy to check, just skip to step 7. If pressures and heights are off you can skew step 7 results to some degree, but if you get terrible results on step 7 and you know the globes are 10+ years old, I'd put money on it that they're due for replacement.
Hey thanks for the video! I recently had my lower control arms replaced and AHC stopped working. Any suggestions?
Well done! Thank you
Do you know a free video editor software on phone or pc that has video "center & stabilizer"?
How do we get tech stream?
hi do you have yo pay for the software or where did you got that VM file?
Hi MD , I have a question . If I want to raise the Height 1-2inch on Neutral ahc position. Would that be OK? I know in the cheat sheet u said, neutral should be 0.0" reading . Thank you
I never advise a sensor lift, but you can do it if you're so inclined. 1" is fine enough. 2" is pushing it. Inevitably it's increased wear on cvs and inferior driving dynamics on the road.
If you perform the sensor lift, it will still read "0.x"". The system always seeks zero. You're just changing what "zero" is.
Great video! If I may, what size tire are you running?
275/70/18
@@user-df1gh8le6l thank you!
@@user-df1gh8le6l I just bought 265/65R18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers for my stock 04 LX 470. I wish I would have gone bigger for looks. Any pros/cons for the 275/70R18 on a stock vehicle with AHC? I am primarily on road with a little light off-roading, and still have a CJ5. Thanks!
Having trouble finding king springs, are you able to suggest an alternative?
No alternative I know of. Have you tried ebay?
@@user-df1gh8le6l Thanks for the suggestion. I was actually able to reach out to the company and order directly from them.
I'm curious what non-ahc springs you have considered and maybe moved to since uploading this
I've got the king springs and pressures are great. I'll probably stay with the king springs long term. I added 30mm spacers from Slee as well.
Thanks for the video, I replaced the 4 accumulator the ride is comfortable on big bumps but on small holes in road and damage road I feel it hard in car, the suspension not leaking but I think it’s from factory 375k km, any advice ?
If the suspension rubber isn't new, I would start replacing bushings everywhere. There are many!
I have the same issue, high speed bumper is ok, just low speed the ride is very bad...
I had a local Toyota dealer replace all 4 shocks. Also had them do an ACH fluid flush. They are saying that the L is flashing on the dash and that the truck is stuck in the low position. I sent them your instructions that are on your website, cheat sheet, and told them to try step 3. They said the pump and everything else about the ACH system seemed to be working fine. Do you have any other recommendations or things they should check?
If it's stuck in low, I expect pressure to be too high. What are your neutral pressures? What diagnostic code is the system showing in techstream?
@@user-df1gh8le6l I need to ask the mechanic at Toyota about the pressures. They bypassed the switch inside the truck that you push to change between low, neutral, and high, to see if the pump would turn on, and it did. When they try to push the up arrow on the button to go in the to neutral height, nothing happens and the L is still flashing on the dash. Should they completely drain the entire ACH system and start the procedure over again?
They need to measure neutral pressures and check techstream codes before doing anything.
@@user-df1gh8le6l If it stuck in low, can they move it in to the neutral position by using Techstream?
No, but they can see pressures build as it tries. Or they can see a trouble code if one exists
Anyone know where to get replacement AHC shocks? Are there aftermarket ones or only factory? Mine squeak like crazy and have done everything I can think of, but can't get rid of it so I think they're just shot
Genuine Toyota/Lexus only. I wouldn't expect a shock to squeak. Have you replaced the bottom bushing and the two top cushions? and all the sway bar bushings? And the upper and ower control arm bushings? And Ball joint? ;)
@@user-df1gh8le6l Those are all going to be my first steps, so I'm hoping that was the cause of the squeak and not the shock itself. It doesn't squeak (as much) in High AHC mode, which is why I was wondering about the shock. 330k miles on this LX470 :). Thanks for the advice!
Great video! Have the same issue with my rear bushings on an 2000 LX470, did you end up replacing those yet?
Not on the 06, no. I did replace my rear lower control arms on my 99. That helped reduce a good amount of highway shimmy over bumps. Low speed bumps felt less sloppy as well. I'm anxious to do the 06, just haven't made it that far down my to-do list in a while... :/
@@user-df1gh8le6l Thanks! Did you go with an aftermarket kit or OEM parts? Was thinking of going with a full kit since all the bushings are worn.
@@DRSLEEPEN I did SPC arms. If you're adventurous with a press (and dremel/grinder as needed) you can get just the bushings for way less than the entire arm (SPC or OEM).
@@user-df1gh8le6l Thanks again! I've did an AHC flush earlier this year but had never hooked up TechStream and adjusted torsion bars. Was able to do that today thanks to this video. Just FYI the USB only would work for me if I went in the VirtualBox settings for Devices > USB > then selected the VCI cable.
Man I can’t turn torsion bars. It’s not moving at all man. What do I do?
Vehicle in H? Sure there's more thread available? Using a breaker bar?
@@user-df1gh8le6l vehicle is in H and I’m using screw wrench.
@@Tahakamee I'm not sure what you mean by a screw wrench, but you should be using a 30mm socket on a big breaker bar. Like a 2 foot bar. It takes a ton of force.
@@user-df1gh8le6l I meant the adjustable wrench. So mine front pressures are 7.9 and the rear is 7.3. Vehicle is completely stock no weight added and it’s full of gas. Going to turn torsion bar clockwise using the wrench 🔧 and would jack up the one of the front wheel, then I think it would be easier to turn torsion nut. Would also do the other wheel. I know it would be time consuming but this seems to be the easy way. If I had breaker bar then it would be frictionless. Thanks for reply :)
Ah. Ok. Adjustable wrench is definitely the wrong tool for that job. Buy yourself a real breaker bar and 30mm socket before you smash your hand with an open end adjustable.
Its pronounced hime. great vid.
Really appreciate for this video, thanks! My 2002 vx limited has weird steering angle, its always does -6.75 degree steering angle every time i turn the key to igniton, so i must manipulate the system to make it 0.00 degree again. Do you have solutions? Thanks in advance!
The steering angle often shows a ridiculous number. It's not a measure of the steering wheel, but actually a gear in the rack/linkage. Don't work about it. You're all good.
@@user-df1gh8le6l Thank you for your quick reply, but isn't it affected the stiffnes of the suspension when it goes over -30° or +30°? I read it on ih8mud forum. But yes maybe you are right, its just a number, thanks man 👍
Will this process work for my 08 LX570? Can you achieve the same articulation as a 3" lift kit?
The 200 series (LX570) is slightly different in design, but the core principles are the same. Pressures need to be checked and kept in line and the globes can wear out and yield a harsh ride. Articulation will be dependent on each specific kit and I'm not terribly familiar with the 200 options. For the 100, most the standard lift kits have similar OR LESS articulation than the OEM suspension. The get a lift and more articulation you generally need to alter/replace the A arm geometry along with the shocks/springs in a cohesive package. This tends to be in the "long travel kit" category and represents a tiny sliver of the "lift kit" market for the 100 (and I assume the 200 is similar).
Hi Do you need some great lighting for your car to help you better driving, off-road. We're the pro auto lighting manufacturer for nearly 20 year and we're looking for sponsorship!
I wonder what tires you have on stock suspension (I believe it's stock?) and 18" wheels? Thanks for great video - I'm gonna tune my AHC as well
Tires in this video are BFG KO2 275/70/18. Soon to be replaced by 295/70/17 on some new Braid wheels in bronze! Stay tuned!
@@user-df1gh8le6l What's bad with KO2? How are they when using on highway? Too noisy? How is the ride?
I currently have all-season bridgestones but looking at A/T options.
@@romannagorkin Nothing wrong with them, I just want more sidewall for comfort/grip offroad so I'm going with a smaller wheel and thicker tire. KO2 are great in my experience. A little noisy once they're a few years old, but overall very good for an aggressive AT.
@@user-df1gh8le6l awesome video, thanks for putting this out and available. I just upgraded to a 2006 LC100 series with AHC and looking to build it up. Question: any rubbing with the 275/70/18?
This may be a stupid question, but if the AHC destroys itself while your out of town, can you still drive on it? or will it further damage things/leave you stranded?
Generally, if it fails in the worst way possible, you'll be driving on or near the bumpstops. It would be very uncomfortable, but drive able. You wouldn't want to drive in it longer than you have to, but you're unlikely to do much damage if you drive slowly and carefully. It's definitely a risk, but I believe it's a small one and one that can be largely mitigated with proper maintenance.
@@user-df1gh8le6l Thank you for the response!
Great video. Thanks for making it! Also, what kind of Mazda is that? My wife drives a CX-5 GT AWD. Great little run around town car for her. And let’s be honest, feels like a sports car next to the LX.
Yes! 2014 gt awd. Good little car. Sporty, but not great for long trips.
@@user-df1gh8le6l Indeed. We have two growing girls. 11&9. And they wish we always drove the Lexus. 😆 It fills up fast and we will HAVE to the the LX on the Christmas trip just for the space.
@@MissouriAdventures Yeah, no kidding. Funny how relative the space aspect is once you throw a kid or two into the mix. Even the LX fills up fast with a car seat or two, a stroller and a few overnight bags.
@@user-df1gh8le6l We came from an Excursion. 7.3 Powerstroke. So it’s been an adjustment for sure. I miss that rig. Even if it is still sitting in my driveway. Best way to go camping with a family is with an Ex. Because everything fits. Haha
my front end was at 19.25" , was level, front pressures were 8.4, did 10 turns, got down to 6.4 with me in it. then i adjusted sensors to get to roughly 19.7" on the front, got another 1/2 turn out of my passenger side, no more threads :(. is it possible to get more out of the torsion bar? like take it apart and spline it in further counter clockwise so i get more torsion out of it, or am i just going to need to get new torsion bars?
You definitely rotate the torsion bar one spline. That's commonly called "reindexing". No need for a new bar.
I would just back off the sensor so it's in spec as is. :)
One question, how is the ride before and after adjust the tbar? Lower pressure will have better ride at low speed?
@@Cxkxxx yeah it was a HUGE difference for me, was at 8.4 originally, got it to 6.2 with car empty, then i decided to go from 19.25" to just under 19.75" and i couldnt get it into spec, i think im at 7.1 in the front now, but still night and day difference. i will be indexing
@@AnthraxVX Yeah I think that is my problem, after four new globes my ride still like shit. Now I just need to figure it out how to make the rusty tbar adjustment bolts turn
Do I check ahc with a full tank of gas and me in it?
I would, yes.
@@user-df1gh8le6l hi I'm currently adjusting the torsion bars with the sensor you said to disconnect it reads 6.1 and 2.7 with it connected it reads 6.1 and 6.5. Fr-.03 fl-0.0 rr- 0.2. I've been cranking mostly the passenger front it was at - .4 for a while after several small cranks. What I find weird is rear stays at 6.5 but my front is 6.1. I think I'm going out of spec. What should I do. Is the 2.7 value with the plug disconnected the real value. And I'm way overcranking. But if I back off the turns again my front height my go. Negative.
Need clarification. Which numbers are front and which are rear? The 2.7 is not a real value. low numbers like that normally mean you didn't wait long enough after raising to n to record the value.
@@user-df1gh8le6l the 2.7 would be rear. Thats with the sensor by the resevoir disconnected. Maybe I'm jumping the gun. It seems to refresh everything but that.
Try a few more cycles and see what numbers you get. None of those numbers are high so you probably don't need much more torsion adjustment. 6.1 up front is a little low. Might have to back off those front bars.
Man. No kidding about mechanics not being familiar with these. Just spoke with a mechanic who only deals with Toyota and Lexus and he was t familiar with any of this at all. Suggested I buy a used sequoia.. vs a LX470.
*was not familiar
That sounds about right, haha. Knowledge is power!
What size tire are you running?
275/70/18 in the video and now 295/70/17 on 17x8 ET40 wheels.
@@user-df1gh8le6l looks very nice
@@user-df1gh8le6l thank you
What does AHC mean
Automatic Height Control
“You only need 3 things…”
*me missing 2 of 3 things 😳*
why did you decide not to go with an senor lift? does it make for a harder ride, or have trouble going in to High?
P.S. you forgot to link the cheat sheet.
I don't think the sensor lift helps anything aside from looking "cool". On the highway, you really don't want a lift. On trails, the H setting is plenty high. Cheat Sheet: Yes, sorry! I'm uploading it now to facebook, instagram and I'll see if I can get it linked here.
There's not much benefit to a static suspension lift on an IFS vehicle. You aren't gaining any max suspension travel or tire clearance since you haven't changed the pivot points of the front suspension, just where the tires sit in the suspension arc. AHC High is plenty high enough. It's also "true" lift, measured at the sensor, not "net" lift which is whatever's left on a conventional spring lift after sag. Not to mention that the AHC has an automatic "extra-high" mode that adds an additional inch of lift if it senses that the vehicle is high centered. You get all of that without the negatives of a static lift: worse MPG, accelerated wear on drivetrain components, needing a diff drop (which reduces clearance) and potentially dangerous lack of down travel.
Mine goes up and down in about half the time yours does. Does that mean the system is healthier? It’s stock. New to me 2004 purchased in March. Still lots to learn.
I think that speaks to pump/motor/fluid/globe/accumulator condition, but in some conflicting ways. If you have dead globes, the volume of fluid needed to move up or down is less and might be faster. Conversely if your pump and accumulator are really healthy, I could see that reducing time in a good way. From what I read from others, time to raise or lower is hard to use for diagnostics unless it takes longer than a minute or so.