Great idea! This is exactly what I was looking for. Another great example of what TH-cam should be used for! Thanks for creating a fantastic video and sharing your solution.
Great video. You could've made your second transition using either a 1/2 dowel of appropriate diameter mounted on 1/8" or 1/4" ply backer then used the same way as your welded transition support.
Wow….weeee! I’ve had this flooring for 4 years was so excited to start my redo but sadly this issue quickly ended my project as I did not anticipate this problem much less the cost of purchasing the bull nose molding so my flooring has remained in the box but it’s coming back out now that I found you!!!Thank you ,,thank you dear Sir for sharing your mad skills you just made my day I can’t wait to restart. Hey can you tell me what kind of heat gun to get for this please
My stairs have been bare for more than two years because I was stumped at the rounded edge and that crazy price tag for each bullnose step. Thanks so much for this video. I will be following this technique with my stairs.
Great vid.. exaclty what I needed to see before I do my project. The bullnose was available for my flooring but is not anymore and I'm totally ok with that. Was going to cost me around $400 in bullnose material and not look nearly as good as this method. Thank you!
How can you finish stairs that are open on the sides as well? The bottom 3 steps in my house have open sides and spindles. I would need to fabricate a corner or some kind of edge trim.
Watched several other videos on this topic before figuring out that I need to remove some material from the bottom to get the bend consistent. Thank you!
Floors by Southern Boys did a video on square nose. Essentially replace the square router bit with a v-grove bit and route down to the wear layer, then heat, bend, glue, and hold. th-cam.com/video/kRwWiKs_qrM/w-d-xo.html
Wouldn't it cause issues the way you connected that first top stair transition because you attached the transition strip to the flooring and also glued it down so the floor has no expansion gap now?
yes, possibly. I didn't think about that when I was doing it. I don't want any expansion to push the bullnose over the step, so hopefully I don't have issues. If I do, then I will post and let you know. Ultimately, the other end of my flooring is not far away and has good expansion gap underneath the baseboard. I put this in about April of '22, as we go through Winter, I should be able to see how a year cycle of expansion effects things. Thanks.
Actually, that damaged piece makes it look more real. Maybe fill it with wood putty and stain it a little bit? Most of the time, floors and stairs aren't perfect.
For the step that didnt have the hangover you could have used a 3/4 inch dowel rod and cut it in half and glued that inside bend. great job none the less.
Absolutely. My situation got exciting simply because my son had recently finished his welding training. So I went that route. I don't think I have the right tools to cut a dowel in half, but maybe the hardware store sells them in halves already. I believe I have seen them in quarters. Thanks
Great video and very helpful! I have the same hest gun as you do, and I wasn't sure what temperature to go with. You're the 1st video that I ran across that said the temperature. I have seen a couple of videos where people have removed the padding from the LVP. I guess the reasoning behind doing so is because the glue won't adhere to the padding that well. Any thoughts or insight is greatly appreciated.
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
I found it helpful to make the bending side of the jig with three boards 2- 3/4 inch and 1-1/4 inch. Also make the outer board slightly taller than the inner. This held the board in better…on the second attempt 😊 thanks for posting!
Perfect solution to a similar problem I am having - I needed a bullnose to mate up with flooring on a landing while the rest of the stairs are carpeted. Thank you for sharing!!!! BTW, I love the homemade kiln you used as a weight - I made one just like it years ago!!!!!
Wow you are the man brother I have this exact problem right now and I was thinking somewhere along the same lines but I haven't tried you do the same thing for composite decking on railing. Seriously thank you very much
Never heat the finished side. There is no reason to do it and you will avoid damaging the wear surface and the vinyl, itself. Never heat the finished side.
Maybe it is possible to complete the full bend without hearing that top side. Good advice. I had not tried that. It was hard to get the gun up and in there once a large amount of the bend had happened.
How about don't blister the finished side. All the how to videos by flooring installers show heating the face. I'd make this a two person operation, one person keeping track of the temp with an infrared thermometer as the second applies the heat. Mostly to the back of possible. Heat up a scrap gradually until the face bubbles. Now keep the face 20 to 50 degrees cooler.
I disagree, you just need to be careful to not overheat. If you heat from only the back side it takes longer because the pre attached foam underlayment acts as an insulator so it’ll take longer to heat the plank so it’ll bend. Routering out the strip from the back side helps with this
You know, you’re the first person to give a good answer to bull nose dilemma! Thanks! Got the gun, the multi tool. Just needed an excuse to buy a router… you Da man!
Sort of. For the bullnose pieces, I had the router removed just a small section of it so that I could get the bend without any buckling. For the top stair transitions, I used the router (in the video) to remove some of that underlayment, while then removing the opposite "overlayment" on the floor planks so that they would fit together puzzle style.
Great video, How much rubber did you leave at the beginning of the plank before you made 2 passes with what looks like a 3/4 inch flat router bit. Was it 1/2 inch ?
How about you use your head and realize it varies based on your application. You don't know how to think for yourself and need EVERYTHING and EVERY detail spelled out for you? Really??? SMH
That distance was approximately 1/4” for me. Realistically, it could be routered all the way to the edge. The idea is to just take some relief off of the areas that will be bending.
@@DiffEQ what is the need to be an asshole? Boomers are the worst generation…. Outside of my parents I can’t wait for this generation to leave the earth. The world be much happier and nicer.
Awesome! BIG THANK YOU!!! I've been struggling with this dilemma for 2 years now, (unfinished stairs). I had the idea to do a heat and bend but could never figure out the mechanics of it. This saved us from building custom stais. Thank you again!
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
As a professional flooring installer, Heavy duty construction Gorilla glue works best. Liquid nails and PL 400 fail every time when it comes to floor coverings.
Great video. Thanks for the information. Could you tell me where or what the exact name of the piece you put in to support the bullnose. I’m having a hard time googling It. Thank you.
Are you talking about the metal L? If so, I don't know the name. This pic is not the exact item, I had just found that metal L at my local hardware store. www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.123rf.com%2Fphoto_38901142_rolled-metal-lbar-angle-steel-isolated-on-white-background.html&psig=AOvVaw0nosl3cVpM8jJ52TEfQRwK&ust=1670177301364000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA4QjRxqFwoTCOCD07eF3vsCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAJ
FYI - it’s October now, I think I did this about 5 months ago. It’s all still holding up great.
Great idea! This is exactly what I was looking for. Another great example of what TH-cam should be used for! Thanks for creating a fantastic video and sharing your solution.
Great video. You could've made your second transition using either a 1/2 dowel of appropriate diameter mounted on 1/8" or 1/4" ply backer then used the same way as your welded transition support.
Wow….weeee! I’ve had this flooring for 4 years was so excited to start my redo but sadly this issue quickly ended my project as I did not anticipate this problem much less the cost of purchasing the bull nose molding so my flooring has remained in the box but it’s coming back out now that I found you!!!Thank you ,,thank you dear Sir for sharing your mad skills you just made my day I can’t wait to restart. Hey can you tell me what kind of heat gun to get for this please
My stairs have been bare for more than two years because I was stumped at the rounded edge and that crazy price tag for each bullnose step. Thanks so much for this video. I will be following this technique with my stairs.
Great vid.. exaclty what I needed to see before I do my project. The bullnose was available for my flooring but is not anymore and I'm totally ok with that. Was going to cost me around $400 in bullnose material and not look nearly as good as this method. Thank you!
😊
Ok at 8 min mark you said wood pootie not putty...lmao. Ive never in my life heard someone say pootie😂😂😂😂
How can you finish stairs that are open on the sides as well? The bottom 3 steps in my house have open sides and spindles. I would need to fabricate a corner or some kind of edge trim.
Watched several other videos on this topic before figuring out that I need to remove some material from the bottom to get the bend consistent. Thank you!
Awesome montage and video editing. Love it. Making bullnose is good. Gonna try it in a near future.
You should!
Does the glue hold with the rubber backing on the vinyl planks? I figured you’d have to remove the rubber.
Prep the pad by scrapping with a stiff wire brush or even a heavy girt sandpaper should work. #SaltyCustomVinyl
What temp. setting do you use on the heat gun? I mean, I know it's max, but what's the max temp. possible on your heat gun? thx
What's the best glue to use for gluing the lvp stairs?
Thanks for the video. Can you please comment on how to make a square nosing?
I don’t think a square nosing is easily achievable with vinyl floor plank. Seems to want to have a pretty good sized curve to it.
check out his TH-cam video for square nose th-cam.com/video/bu5TxFVA5h8/w-d-xo.html
Floors by Southern Boys did a video on square nose. Essentially replace the square router bit with a v-grove bit and route down to the wear layer, then heat, bend, glue, and hold.
th-cam.com/video/kRwWiKs_qrM/w-d-xo.html
Wouldn't it cause issues the way you connected that first top stair transition because you attached the transition strip to the flooring and also glued it down so the floor has no expansion gap now?
yes, possibly. I didn't think about that when I was doing it. I don't want any expansion to push the bullnose over the step, so hopefully I don't have issues. If I do, then I will post and let you know. Ultimately, the other end of my flooring is not far away and has good expansion gap underneath the baseboard. I put this in about April of '22, as we go through Winter, I should be able to see how a year cycle of expansion effects things. Thanks.
It will gap eventually
Actually, that damaged piece makes it look more real. Maybe fill it with wood putty and stain it a little bit? Most of the time, floors and stairs aren't perfect.
For the step that didnt have the hangover you could have used a 3/4 inch dowel rod and cut it in half and glued that inside bend. great job none the less.
Absolutely. My situation got exciting simply because my son had recently finished his welding training. So I went that route. I don't think I have the right tools to cut a dowel in half, but maybe the hardware store sells them in halves already. I believe I have seen them in quarters. Thanks
Love the video. Thanks!
Great video and very helpful! I have the same hest gun as you do, and I wasn't sure what temperature to go with. You're the 1st video that I ran across that said the temperature.
I have seen a couple of videos where people have removed the padding from the LVP. I guess the reasoning behind doing so is because the glue won't adhere to the padding that well. Any thoughts or insight is greatly appreciated.
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
I found it helpful to make the bending side of the jig with three boards 2- 3/4 inch and 1-1/4 inch. Also make the outer board slightly taller than the inner. This held the board in better…on the second attempt 😊 thanks for posting!
Perfect solution to a similar problem I am having - I needed a bullnose to mate up with flooring on a landing while the rest of the stairs are carpeted. Thank you for sharing!!!! BTW, I love the homemade kiln you used as a weight - I made one just like it years ago!!!!!
Wow you are the man brother I have this exact problem right now and I was thinking somewhere along the same lines but I haven't tried you do the same thing for composite decking on railing. Seriously thank you very much
What's the tool you're using to shave the padding called? And what what depth and blade type did you use?
router
Is it really necessary or helpful to router the dado in the back to thin it? I see many of these videos where nobody else did this ?
Great video, Thank you!! Its been a year, did a gap ever develop?
Where the two seams come together on the Treads, is it noticeable? because as I've seen when applied as flooring, no two pieces are exactly the same.
@Dave Enns
Do you think you can form the plank to a square nose rather than a round?
How are they holding up? I seen on another video people saying this will shorten the life of the pieces
wonderful video. Thanks for sharing.
How do you cut them and what do you cut with after you make them
circ saw or jig saw. Even a table saw.
Never heat the finished side. There is no reason to do it and you will avoid damaging the wear surface and the vinyl, itself. Never heat the finished side.
Maybe it is possible to complete the full bend without hearing that top side. Good advice. I had not tried that. It was hard to get the gun up and in there once a large amount of the bend had happened.
How about don't blister the finished side. All the how to videos by flooring installers show heating the face.
I'd make this a two person operation, one person keeping track of the temp with an infrared thermometer as the second applies the heat.
Mostly to the back of possible.
Heat up a scrap gradually until the face bubbles. Now keep the face 20 to 50 degrees cooler.
Not heating the finish side has dire consequences... th-cam.com/users/shortsQw7XCxT9Fus?feature=share
The fuckin know-it-alls have to reply on every video. Nobody cares about your 2 cents.
I disagree, you just need to be careful to not overheat. If you heat from only the back side it takes longer because the pre attached foam underlayment acts as an insulator so it’ll take longer to heat the plank so it’ll bend. Routering out the strip from the back side helps with this
You know, you’re the first person to give a good answer to bull nose dilemma! Thanks! Got the gun, the multi tool. Just needed an excuse to buy a router… you Da man!
th-cam.com/users/shortsQw7XCxT9Fus?feature=share
can you do this with 4 inch wide planks?
Did you remove the attached underlayment before gluing the planks down?
Sort of. For the bullnose pieces, I had the router removed just a small section of it so that I could get the bend without any buckling. For the top stair transitions, I used the router (in the video) to remove some of that underlayment, while then removing the opposite "overlayment" on the floor planks so that they would fit together puzzle style.
Great video, How much rubber did you leave at the beginning of the plank before you made 2 passes with what looks like a 3/4 inch flat router bit. Was it 1/2 inch ?
How about you use your head and realize it varies based on your application. You don't know how to think for yourself and need EVERYTHING and EVERY detail spelled out for you? Really??? SMH
That distance was approximately 1/4” for me. Realistically, it could be routered all the way to the edge. The idea is to just take some relief off of the areas that will be bending.
Retired engineer - pretty negative comments.
@@DiffEQ what is the need to be an asshole? Boomers are the worst generation…. Outside of my parents I can’t wait for this generation to leave the earth. The world be much happier and nicer.
@@DiffEQI wonder why you have to be so condescending. I’ll bet you are such fun to hang with. What an a$$hole!
Impressive! Great process!
😊😊
What mill flooring is that?
Excellent Job, and details.
How much would it cost for set of 18 steps? Labor only
What material and what profile?
Wow
Great video. I will use this to complete my project!
Ever done a step with shown edges. A 3 sided shown face edge, 1 1/2 deep
Good job!
impressive
Excellent work
Awesome! BIG THANK YOU!!!
I've been struggling with this dilemma for 2 years now, (unfinished stairs). I had the idea to do a heat and bend but could never figure out the mechanics of it.
This saved us from building custom stais.
Thank you again!
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
Plus I have a flight of free floating stairs that were carpeted. We didn't want to reuse the existing wood since it was only construction grade 2x12 (full of staple holes). I wanted to use the LVT on them so they would match. Your solution will work for those steps as well. I'll just need to adapt the technique for those 1.75" treads.
Nice 😊
Thanks 😊
What kind of adhesive did you use?
I don't recall exactly. I just checked my garage for leftovers. none. After googling floor adhesive, the Liquid Nails products are looking familiar.
Actually, right at 5:51 in the video, I can see the glue. "subfloor deck" check that out.
As a professional flooring installer, Heavy duty construction Gorilla glue works best. Liquid nails and PL 400 fail every time when it comes to floor coverings.
Thanks for not warning me, now I have welders flash.
Great video. Thanks for the information. Could you tell me where or what the exact name of the piece you put in to support the bullnose. I’m having a hard time googling It. Thank you.
Are you talking about the metal L? If so, I don't know the name. This pic is not the exact item, I had just found that metal L at my local hardware store. www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.123rf.com%2Fphoto_38901142_rolled-metal-lbar-angle-steel-isolated-on-white-background.html&psig=AOvVaw0nosl3cVpM8jJ52TEfQRwK&ust=1670177301364000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA4QjRxqFwoTCOCD07eF3vsCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAJ
Cool video. Best I’ve seen on this topic. 👍🏼
Thanks!