Proof right there to what I always say: postwar trains will still be running long after modern high end trains are collecting dust on shelves because of failed obsolete out of production circuit boards. Anything Lionel from 1945 through the MPC years are pure survivors.
Have had my fully functional Lionel 1615 switcher since 1955 to this very day. Bought new in a 1955 set in Macy's Department Store in Herald Square 34th Street at Christmas in '55. It was - the Lionel train that started me into model railroading for the next 69 years. Good video Mike ,loved it 🚂
You have my highest respect for warning of the dangers of emery boards and how to properly clean commutators. It's harder to find, but I use a liquid contact cleaner, De-Ox-Id with Q-tips. Sprays work too, in a pinch, so long as they are applies via Q-tip as you do. Nice to see actual good, solid, advice, much better than half the hacks on here who end up doing long term damage.
I've been using rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip to clean commutators, that is I start with a Q-tip, then give the plates a rub with a pencil eraser to get a polish, then follow-up with one more alcohol-soaked Q-tip to clean any detritus from the eraser. The contact cleaner's a good idea but I'll keep an eye out for De-Ox-Id, that sounds interesting. Thanks! Let me add while I'm cleaning the commutator I soak the brushes in alcohol to get them clean then dry them with a paper towel.
Careful with that de-ox-id, it leaves a film on whatever you use it on and might build up over time and do more harm than good. People use it to stop arching, but all it really does, in my opinion, is put off the work you just did a week later. It's fun working on these locos, just not when you're doing it every other day.
Great tutorial Mike! I don't own one of those 0-4-0's at the moment but one never knows, do one? Two bits of advice. For ballasting lightweight cars I use short lengths of steel pipe and use two-sided tape to secure them inside the car. The pipe lengths are cheap and come in various lengths and diameters. As far as the boiler shell is concerned if the paint's deteriorated just go ahead and repaint it, it's no sin now and it's easy to do. What I WOULDN'T do is put a coat of oil on the shell if the paint's not bad and repainting isn't important. The oil will penetrate what's left of the paint through the worn and chipped areas and lift it off. It won't happen overnight but it will happen. If you want to preserve the paint that's left use a paste wax. Paste wax will put a barrier between the air and the finish and won't harm that finish. Both the Greenberg and K-Line repair guides surface at train shows from time to time. Prices range from reasonable to ridiculous. I picked up the K-Line book at a show for $25 which I thought was a right price. I've never heard of ttender, thanks for that! I'll check them out! I DO know aobut Henning's, great place with a great bunch of people! When I'm in that part of the country I always try to stop in. In fact if anyone's doing the tourist thing in the Philadelphia area Henning's is an easy drive away. Great video as always! Thanks!
I completely agree with the oil statement. As a paint and body man, I have heard of so many things people do that are actually not preserving paint but rather harming it. Using furniture polish is another thing that drives me bananas that people throw around as a tip. Jeff at The Train Tender is just great to deal with. Very knowledgeable and just an all around great person.
@@joshuacampbell9990 The paint job on this model was pretty well shot, so I thought it was a good opportunity to test Benz method. It didn't work, so I won't do it again. I'll repaint the steamer someday.
@@joshuacampbell9990 Thanks Joshua! Having dealt with antiques of various kinds for close to 50 years I've seen many cases where painted surfaces were ruined by people thinking they'd preserve them with a coat of oil. Don't do it folks!
I LOVE running these small steam locos, even though I own a number of Northern O Gauge steam locomotives, as I have a lot of O27 track on my layout, and I enjoy watching these nimble engines scurrying through my track switches with a string of freight cars, or a passenger car or two. It makes for lively entertainment! 😊 🚂
I was actually looking for one of these, but then I came across a Lionel #1110 that had a front coupler added. Of course, then I found out that it was actually too big once the tender was on, as it would need to fit on the turntable (two O Gauge standard length sections) with a freight car. Now I'm looking for a diesel switcher.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Given what I've seen online, most Lionel switchers are just over a foot long. Since my turntable is two feet, I have found that that should work. Actually, those little Lionel gas turbine, Vulcan, and industrial switchers (which was something of another revision of the other little switchers) are some of the ones that I was looking at. Part of this is because those little switchers are also perfect for the Carbon Coal Company, which has a little mine train. If I get that, later it can be moved to mine duty after I get the C.C.C. completed and acquire an NW-2 or a 44-Tonner. Most of my freight cars are Lionel postwar that are close to (and sometimes less than) a foot long.
Very nice. I eventually would like to get one of these old scale. 0-6-0. I mostly collect all the modern legacy stuff but this one is Very cool. ( Bonus Time capsule in the tender 🤣)
i have a 1615 and got as far as you did. the 'e' unit rattles well and the contacts look good, the wheels and center roller iare clean. all this but the engine doesn't run or even buzz with power applied. the head light is bright but nothing else works.
If the E unit isn't buzzing, I would start there. Try running jumpers directly to the motor and see what happens. My guess is either a loose connection somewhere or a dirty E unit.
Nice restoration and cleaning project. I found one on the cheap that runs well, however, both front marker lights are knocked off. Any suggestion for adding those back? Thanks!
Are the marker lights themselves missing.or just the jewels? The actual markers would be a tough replacement on the metal shell. On plastic. I have successfully made new lights by 3D printing them (the markers on the #250 in this video are actually printed). th-cam.com/video/btz7RJaKJ7E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=orHv6HRS1lZjsdyH
good afternoon. Watching your videos it is evident of the knowledge you have. I have a question for my tre polar express of 2022; Last Christmas, being connected to the electrical network and without activating the remote control, it started moving very quickly, after 1 turn it stopped moving and the front light remained intermittent when turned on, I tried to start with the remote control and it did not work. Since what happened, my train has not run again. My question is.. what could have happened? Could it be that there is a solution? Thank you for your time in responding.
The newer LionChief and command locomotives are more complex than the models that I normally deal with. I would contact Lionel's service department (Lionel. Com) or your nearest Lionel dealer regarding your particular issue.
Just make sure the motor plate on the drive gear side is screwed down nice and tight, otherwise it will loosen and your motor will get jammed and explode on you.
I found this exact engine as part of a set in a box full of other cars, a more modern plastic engine, A/C transformer, and track. Purchased for $25. The newer engine runs well, but is designed to only go forward. I've managed to get the 1615 running, but it is much more finicky. A couple of questions: 1. The side rods are missing on one side of the 1615. Is there a right and left to these, and if so... what constitutes right and left? Looking at the train from the front or rear? 2. Another of your videos suggest the ability to use a DC transformer (eliminating the ability to go both directions), but I'd actually prefer the quieter operation. How would I locate the correct DC transformer that would fit my small layout, without overbuying? Thanks in advance.
Some of the side rods are reversible while others are side specific. Typically, the engineer side, or the right side as you look from the cab, is considered the right side. However, I have seen some eBay sellers get this in reverse so be careful. As far as DC power is concerned, your best bet would be to make a DC converter circuit for your regular Lionel transformer. Most DC power packs intended for HO and N scale lack the sufficient wattage to properly operate tinplate trains.
Hello, does Walmart have more than one website? I clicked on the link in your video, and I then clicked "Go to check out," n it asked me to create an account, I already have an account with Walmart!? I clicked out!?
The commutator is the metal plating with which the brushes make contact. docs.google.com/presentation/d/1Uovj03zSx9nRll4d3SoAquG6Mm64RbUWBFIlglQLY2o/edit?usp=sharing
Proof right there to what I always say: postwar trains will still be running long after modern high end trains are collecting dust on shelves because of failed obsolete out of production circuit boards. Anything Lionel from 1945 through the MPC years are pure survivors.
Have had my fully functional Lionel 1615 switcher since 1955 to this very day. Bought new in a 1955 set in Macy's Department Store in Herald Square 34th Street at Christmas in '55. It was - the Lionel train that started me into model railroading for the next 69 years. Good video Mike ,loved it 🚂
Thanks for sharing!!
You have my highest respect for warning of the dangers of emery boards and how to properly clean commutators. It's harder to find, but I use a liquid contact cleaner, De-Ox-Id with Q-tips. Sprays work too, in a pinch, so long as they are applies via Q-tip as you do. Nice to see actual good, solid, advice, much better than half the hacks on here who end up doing long term damage.
I've been using rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip to clean commutators, that is I start with a Q-tip, then give the plates a rub with a pencil eraser to get a polish, then follow-up with one more alcohol-soaked Q-tip to clean any detritus from the eraser. The contact cleaner's a good idea but I'll keep an eye out for De-Ox-Id, that sounds interesting. Thanks!
Let me add while I'm cleaning the commutator I soak the brushes in alcohol to get them clean then dry them with a paper towel.
Thanks for the tips!
Great tips!
Careful with that de-ox-id, it leaves a film on whatever you use it on and might build up over time and do more harm than good.
People use it to stop arching, but all it really does, in my opinion, is put off the work you just did a week later. It's fun working on these locos, just not when you're doing it every other day.
It's hard to beat these old bullet proof trains. Thanks for the entertainment!
Thanks for watching!
Mike, thanks again for providing replacement parts info along with your cleaning tips…VERY much appreciated! 🚂
Happy to help!
I love working on basket case locomotives. Congrats on bringing this one back. Thanks for the parts suppliers recommendations, I'll check them out.
Thanks!
Really nice video and advice!
Glad you liked it!
Great tutorial Mike! I don't own one of those 0-4-0's at the moment but one never knows, do one?
Two bits of advice. For ballasting lightweight cars I use short lengths of steel pipe and use two-sided tape to secure them inside the car. The pipe lengths are cheap and come in various lengths and diameters.
As far as the boiler shell is concerned if the paint's deteriorated just go ahead and repaint it, it's no sin now and it's easy to do. What I WOULDN'T do is put a coat of oil on the shell if the paint's not bad and repainting isn't important. The oil will penetrate what's left of the paint through the worn and chipped areas and lift it off. It won't happen overnight but it will happen. If you want to preserve the paint that's left use a paste wax. Paste wax will put a barrier between the air and the finish and won't harm that finish.
Both the Greenberg and K-Line repair guides surface at train shows from time to time. Prices range from reasonable to ridiculous. I picked up the K-Line book at a show for $25 which I thought was a right price.
I've never heard of ttender, thanks for that! I'll check them out!
I DO know aobut Henning's, great place with a great bunch of people! When I'm in that part of the country I always try to stop in. In fact if anyone's doing the tourist thing in the Philadelphia area Henning's is an easy drive away.
Great video as always! Thanks!
Thanks for the tips!!
I completely agree with the oil statement. As a paint and body man, I have heard of so many things people do that are actually not preserving paint but rather harming it. Using furniture polish is another thing that drives me bananas that people throw around as a tip.
Jeff at The Train Tender is just great to deal with. Very knowledgeable and just an all around great person.
@@joshuacampbell9990 The paint job on this model was pretty well shot, so I thought it was a good opportunity to test Benz method. It didn't work, so I won't do it again. I'll repaint the steamer someday.
@@joshuacampbell9990 Thanks Joshua! Having dealt with antiques of various kinds for close to 50 years I've seen many cases where painted surfaces were ruined by people thinking they'd preserve them with a coat of oil. Don't do it folks!
This is going to be very helpful in getting my dad's 1950s starter set Lionel engine up and running again!
Happy to help!
Great work Mike.
Thanks!
That's a cool little locomotive! Nice project👍👍
Thanks!
Excellent. Thank you for sharing your experience
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very cool
Thanks!
Very nice and informative video as always👍👍 Thank You!
Thanks for watching!
I LOVE running these small steam locos, even though I own a number
of Northern O Gauge steam locomotives, as I have a lot of O27 track on my layout, and I enjoy watching these nimble engines scurrying through my track switches with a string of freight cars, or a passenger car or two. It makes for lively entertainment! 😊 🚂
Same here!
Thank you for another insightful video.
You're welcome!
I was actually looking for one of these, but then I came across a Lionel #1110 that had a front coupler added.
Of course, then I found out that it was actually too big once the tender was on, as it would need to fit on the turntable (two O Gauge standard length sections) with a freight car. Now I'm looking for a diesel switcher.
About the only diesel switcher to fit on the turntable with a car would be a 4-wheel "industrial" switcher. amzn.to/3UEFnfS
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Given what I've seen online, most Lionel switchers are just over a foot long. Since my turntable is two feet, I have found that that should work. Actually, those little Lionel gas turbine, Vulcan, and industrial switchers (which was something of another revision of the other little switchers) are some of the ones that I was looking at. Part of this is because those little switchers are also perfect for the Carbon Coal Company, which has a little mine train. If I get that, later it can be moved to mine duty after I get the C.C.C. completed and acquire an NW-2 or a 44-Tonner. Most of my freight cars are Lionel postwar that are close to (and sometimes less than) a foot long.
Very nice. I eventually would like to get one of these old scale. 0-6-0. I mostly collect all the modern legacy stuff but this one is Very cool. ( Bonus Time capsule in the tender 🤣)
👍
your very lucky to find the engine with both markers still their, they are missing on a lot of 1615 engines, nice engine
Thanks!
i have a 1615 and got as far as you did. the 'e' unit rattles well and the contacts look good, the wheels and center roller iare clean. all this but the engine doesn't run or even buzz with power applied. the head light is bright but nothing else works.
If the E unit isn't buzzing, I would start there. Try running jumpers directly to the motor and see what happens. My guess is either a loose connection somewhere or a dirty E unit.
I have found out that the bell ringer tender is a good addition m
Nice restoration and cleaning project. I found one on the cheap that runs well, however, both front marker lights are knocked off. Any suggestion for adding those back? Thanks!
Are the marker lights themselves missing.or just the jewels? The actual markers would be a tough replacement on the metal shell. On plastic. I have successfully made new lights by 3D printing them (the markers on the #250 in this video are actually printed). th-cam.com/video/btz7RJaKJ7E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=orHv6HRS1lZjsdyH
It's a beauty. Lionel really built things to last, as did A.C.Gilbert. Consider your $35.00 investment to be well weathered.
Indeed!
good afternoon.
Watching your videos it is evident of the knowledge you have. I have a question for my tre polar express of 2022; Last Christmas, being connected to the electrical network and without activating the remote control, it started moving very quickly, after 1 turn it stopped moving and the front light remained intermittent when turned on, I tried to start with the remote control and it did not work. Since what happened, my train has not run again. My question is.. what could have happened? Could it be that there is a solution? Thank you for your time in responding.
The newer LionChief and command locomotives are more complex than the models that I normally deal with. I would contact Lionel's service department (Lionel. Com) or your nearest Lionel dealer regarding your particular issue.
Marx guy here, I `ve been reluctant to dismantle my Dad`s Lionel 224 up to now.
Nice engine!
Just make sure the motor plate on the drive gear side is screwed down nice and tight, otherwise it will loosen and your motor will get jammed and explode on you.
I found this exact engine as part of a set in a box full of other cars, a more modern plastic engine, A/C transformer, and track. Purchased for $25. The newer engine runs well, but is designed to only go forward. I've managed to get the 1615 running, but it is much more finicky.
A couple of questions:
1. The side rods are missing on one side of the 1615. Is there a right and left to these, and if so... what constitutes right and left? Looking at the train from the front or rear?
2. Another of your videos suggest the ability to use a DC transformer (eliminating the ability to go both directions), but I'd actually prefer the quieter operation. How would I locate the correct DC transformer that would fit my small layout, without overbuying?
Thanks in advance.
Some of the side rods are reversible while others are side specific. Typically, the engineer side, or the right side as you look from the cab, is considered the right side. However, I have seen some eBay sellers get this in reverse so be careful. As far as DC power is concerned, your best bet would be to make a DC converter circuit for your regular Lionel transformer. Most DC power packs intended for HO and N scale lack the sufficient wattage to properly operate tinplate trains.
Hello, does Walmart have more than one website? I clicked on the link in your video, and I then clicked "Go to check out," n it asked me to create an account, I already have an account with Walmart!? I clicked out!?
They've been having server issues the past few days. I'd wait 24 hours and try again. Thanks!
Call me stupid what is a comutator
The commutator is the metal plating with which the brushes make contact. docs.google.com/presentation/d/1Uovj03zSx9nRll4d3SoAquG6Mm64RbUWBFIlglQLY2o/edit?usp=sharing