Its come to my attention that my tune that is clearly stated for the MOTOTEC motor is being used for different motors and setups. This tune is for the MOTOTEC! You will need to tune and adjust your parameters per your motor and setup!!
Dude this video is awesome. Thank you for editing it the way you did, with the riding in the background. Voiceover and the screen recording was amazing. Thank you so much for your videos. Im active in the PEV community and Fardriver tuning information was so limited. You have shared some really valuable information. And the first person to post it! Keep up the great work my friend, very impressed!
Hello Brandon, thanks for the vid....lots of great information presented clearly. That said there was one change I would recommend. On the max RPM setting determine the realistic maximum rpm your motor will achieve at top speed and then maybe set the RPM say 10% higher. Even if you have the max speed setting doing the same thing in the console settings, this will provide you with another layer of control. Having the max RPM set to max (12500) will not increase performance but will make it more likely to damage the motor in the event of a full throttle when the tire is unloaded....like after a minor crash or someone who does not know better balancing the bike on the kick stand (so the tire is in the air) and pinning the throttle to hear the motor spin.
EcoAccCoef is basically how economical it would be like. So for example the higher you tune it the less in efficient in battery consumption 8 is max if you tune it your self you will notice the lower you go the slower your bike will be. At least that’s my case for my 12kw motor and 72850 far driver controller but my old 72530 and 72360 the smaller the number the slower so it would save more batterey and this also apply for my friends that are using FarDriver controllers as well.
Slower as in torque or a throttle ramp? I definitely need to get one of my bikes running again and do some more tests, its been too long! Good info, the more i can learn will definitely help for an updated video.
What's up Brandon, just wanted to say thanks for the insight and help. I clocked in 40mph after changing the parameters on my field weakening and going to supermoto wheels. Very impressed with what the 1600w motor can handle! Only warm to the touch! I know going to 72v will increase the top sleed to 45-50mph. But I was just wondering if you felt a drastic incrrase in torque or if there was any torque/acceleration difference at all? Thanks man, im loving this thing so far!
Hell yeah im glad i could help! 40mph is awesome! Yourll definitely get a torque increase on bottom end and the pull will hold longer aswell and wont go flat as soon as 48v. Youll just have to adjust your weakening settings since youll be increasing your rpm with abhigher voltage! Also i forgot to mention in the video the auto learn only detects phase angle youll have to change pole pairs to 5 so you get an accurate rpm reading
@@EmxBrandon that's what I was thinking. My rpm telemetry seemed sporadic, I'll change to 5 pole and report back brother! Another change I did, was adjust the low voltage value for throttle. My telemetry was reading .79v at the lowest. So by changing it to .80v, it was able to be activated the moment I slightly moved the throttle. A bit too sensitive for my liking so I adjusted to 0.85v and it was perfect. 1.1.v was too much free play before turning the motor for me. This will be different for everyone and I'm sure you already know about this. If you have any other setting tweaks, please let me know! Appreciate it man!
I definitely need to make a updated video soon, theres still so much i could touch on with these controllers but wanted to get something basic out anyways. Seems like you got a pretty good handle! If anything play with your phase offset move it up or down by 5 at a time and see if it smooths out take off and improves torque, under pid parameters your AN should be at 16 but you can play with it a lower it to see if it makes the motor smoother through out the pull, and you can move around the torque curve with ki settings aswell right under an. Im always learning something new though with these things 😆
@@EmxBrandon dude! An updated video w/ your understanding of it now would be amazing brotha! One more question, when doing self learning, I noticed you did it on the table with the motor free. I did it with the chain and wheel connected, but lifted up and free spinning. Obviously my way is much more resistance to the motor during this self learning process. Any downfalls to it from what you can tell? It seems each time I self learn the rated speed rpm value will change by a good amount, from 6500 to even 8100. Could you also post a 30sec screen recording of the live graphs during a full throttle pull with your Razor swapped bike? Saw you had one for the QS swapped Mototec which was awesome!
Yeah for sure! Once i get back onto my mototec i got some stuff i wanna test with different parameter settings for sure and make a plan for a video so im not just winging it like this video 😆 Yeah when i do the auto learn ill take chain off if its mounted in the bike that way there is no resistance and your max rpm should more or less stay around the same number and not jump as much as yours is. Its wierd it will still come up with a different number every time 😆 Also make sure your always doing the auto learn on mode 3 max settings you plan to run! Unfortunately i traded my sx500 for a ktm85 and some cash so i dont have it anymore but i do have a graph recording i can post real quick. It was more of a test hit so it wasnt a very solid pull but you can get an idea of what 70 amps looks like on a stock mototec motor!
Hey are you using the electro and co throttle+3 speed I’m having same issue couldn’t get a picture of how you have it wired, thank you have a great day
@@Jojo_Cr so the problem ended up being that I wasn’t fully connected with the controller. So you need to make sure you’re 100% bound to the controller. With that code they send to your email
Key word "usually" not always. Seems like if the line amps are set and the phase amps are set high, its only gonna pull what its pulling. So in this case i have it set to 300 it might actually only be pulling 250ish and thats what makes it feel more torquey than set at 240. 3x is a good starting point for sure but should definitely still be tested passed that to see what the limit is before you start losing power to heat. Its wierd that people started saying that looking at any controllers rated line/phase, like the 72450 is good for 200 max line so why wouldn't it be 600 max phase instead of 450?
This ones a bit older, hopefully have a newer updated one out very soon. Someof the info i said is incorrect like the auto learn doesnt change pole pairs, thats something you have to change yourself
Hey man it’s awesome that you decided to do this video I really needed a decent teacher on this and also I just did the time for my bike but my battery over heated and stopped me from riding. I couldn’t accelerate at all and my battery was rapidly draining now it’s holding charge and it’s ridin but I just don’t wanna over heat it is there a way to stop the heat or slow it down ig🤷🏾♂️
You most likely need to turn it down, you might be pushing it too hard, is this the stock battery? And no it wont change the rated voltage just the watt output, and youll jeed to adjust your ratio in speed to match the rpm your getting with 48v. Otherwise everything will stay the same!
Okay this help alot. I have a zero zf 75-10. Do you think the auto learn will work on this type of motor? It has sim/cos encoder. Its a RLS rm44. If it will, do you think that the the actual rated power will be made from this set up? I was looking at the ND961800 encoder version of the fardriver.
Probably not anytime soon, the mototec is on the back burner right now and meeds to go under the knife to fit a big 72v battery so i can actually push the 165!
@@EmxBrandon yeah I have a 72330b and it's working fine I just can't seem to adjust the throttle decel.. it was set at 6? Changed it to 224 but nothing seems to have changed..
Unfortunately i never recorded wiring it up, but basically you just need to hook brown to a button and ground it out. Its been awhile and when i used it it was pretty garbage but it seems like the newer controllers finally have it down.
Negative autolearn just learns the phase angle and makes sure it's firing I. The correct order. Otherwise you need to change pole pairs, current, field weakening setting, the whole 9.
I have a problem, when i am not driving the controller goes into a walking gear and it goes max 5kmh. Then when i twist the trottle a few times it goes back to normal. Is it a setting?
Hello brother, i have problem with phase offset. Not really smooth when i start for the first time. I just using BLDC 10kw golden motor and controller nd96850 for my mini car.
What's your "an" under pid parameters set too? Is the golden motor a ipm or spm motor, if ipm set it to an16, redo autolearn and adjust phase offset up or down as needed!
Hey Brandon just got my far driver install on my razor I have it set up like the stock razor and it’s running backwards I can not get to the screen that I can change rotation I don’t have the expert button to get into parameters . To change motor to 0
@@EmxBrandon I found the rotation on it it set to 0 i changed to 1 to change direction and save . Have a zone limit save disabled please contact seller . I paid to have it programmed for the razor chassis. With the chain on the right side . Not sure why they lock my controller.
I'm tuning for a MY1020 3000w motor. I set similar parameters except lowered my max line/phase amps. The bike cuts out when going into full throttle. The battery is a good Amorge 200amp so I doubt it's BMS there's only a 4-5 volt drop max. Any suggestion?
You can but its alot more difficult and there isnt much info to go off of. The manuals are terrible and nothing really describes the parameters. I do think they have bluetooth but i dont believe there is a phone app. Generally i tell people to stay away from them unless they have good experience with controllers and have the patience to figure them out.
awesome video thank you! new here might be stupid ? but if my ration in gear is set to 25,50,50,75 does this mean i can push my motor harder? or do i run the risk of frying something if i turn it up? thanks again for your time.
Ratio in gear is just your mode 1 & 2 you can turn those both to 100 all the way through and it will just match your mode 3 which is your main parameters.
@Jinkzed01 correct, just make sure you have that loop connector plugged into the 3 speed connector off the controller harness or youll be stuck in mode 2!
if i dont have a 3 speed switch. whats the fastest way to turn a 50mph tune into a 25mph with changing the least amount of stuff in the app? thanks again!
@Jinkzed01 no problem! And if you wanna kill off some torque too lower your max phase amps aswell, that way less experienced people can rude it without looping!
I have a 72360 and I am trying to set it up with a Vevor 2000w motor with (for the time being) a 48v 20ah with 30amp BMS. Once completed the auto-learn (several times) the motor doesn't run smooth and stutters a bit passing the 3000 rpm. I have tried all the suggestions given by the fardriver groups, but I was unsuccessful. Hope you can help me somehow. I would really appreciate the help so I can finish the bike for my son.
Hmm ive never messed with the my1020s before so im not too sure. Maybe try changing weak response to 0 and weak character to slow. Maybe that has something to do with it. Also are all of your ratios in speed turned up to 100 all the way through the rpms?
@EmxBrandon I will try to change the weak response to 0 and slow. I have kept the ratios in speed as they were set by the autolearn. What are your thoughts? Should I put them to 100, as you indicated in your video?
Definitely set them all the 100, the my1020 dont respond to field weakening well and are meant for low rpm and high torque. So the motors probably wigging oit with the weakening kicking in right away
Yeah it will be the same for all fardrivers other than whatever line and phase amps the controller is capable of. And the 450 is a great middle ground and plenty for the minis we play with. Its good for 200 line and 450 phase. Plenty of over head running 100/220 on the b1 motor!
@@EmxBrandon Right on perfect man! I appreciate you so much! I'm ordering the new Kelly that has field weakening, flipsky 200pro, and the 7240 fardriver since you confirmed to test on the B1, the razors my1020s and the new FW11. I need to just have each one in hand and run some video test
Thanks for the vid 😀 1 Question please. I have a split rim 72 volt 3500 + hub motor x2, I am happy to achieve 45 mph, which Fardriver model to you recommend? Thanks again.
Probably not the best, i would do the auto learn and after set all your ratios in speed to 100% all through the rpm range. And if you need help look me up on facebook and shoot me a message!
I changed wheel/gear ratio in display settings, but the speed in display is still the same. Do you know if another setting should be flipped with it? Thanks!
You have to change the actual display parameters on the display itself. Theres manuals with all the passwords and codes on siaecosys website. Which display do you have?
@@EmxBrandon Thanks! It's DKD, the same as you had in this video "Dkd Display Install On The 8000w Qs Swapped Mototec" I found a manual but it does not say about the code for gears.
@Vlad Lo heres what i have. Its a single page pdf with all the passwords to change things like mph Password 153 to set circumference, pole pairs, offset, units:mm. Default circumference is 1413. After circumference setting, long press right button to enter into pole pairs and offset setting. Default setting is PL-28-08, pole pairs is 28.(For mid drive motor, pole pair setting should be:pole pair*reducation ratio.), 08 means offset
@Vlad Lo heres all of it incase you cant find it 061(DKD) function setting explaination 1. Speedometer can Identify the controller One-line or CAN-BUS communication automatically. One-line and CAN-BUS is not able to do Interactive recognition when it’s in working condition, it’s only able to do automatic identification in starting up. 2. Function setting Left button for adjusting data, right button for shifting, long press right button for exiting. Pressing left button to start up the speedometer, enter into password setting interface, showing CC---, pressing left button to input password, right button for shifting. Password 153 to set circumference, pole pairs, offset, units:mm. Default circumference is 1413. After circumference setting, long press right button to enter into pole pairs and offset setting. Default setting is PL-28-08, pole pairs is 28.(For mid drive motor, pole pair setting should be:pole pair*reducation ratio.), 08 means offset. Password 256, select 2 speed gear or normal 3 speed gear, -2 is 2 speed, -0 is normal 3 speed gear. Password 372, reset ODO, limit 3 times. Password 856, select 60V/72V/96V/48V range, synchronize with battery bar. If matched lithium battery has compitable CAN-BUS protocal with speedometer, then it will reads the SOC automatically. If they don’t have, then speedometer will read the battery voltage. When use lead-acid battery to replace lithium battery, the speedometer needs to re-power. Password 879, fixed voltage calibration, 60V/72V/96V/48V, correspond to settings. Password 824, self input voltage calibration. Password 974, KPH and MPH switchover Password 928, to shut the D/N/R indictor light.
@@EmxBrandon Ok, I see, looks like I need to change circumference to a lower number. Not sure about the pole pairs. My motor (8kw) doc says it's 4 pole pairs. Anyway will mess with the circumference first. Thanks for the tips!
Is there a difference in performance on the moto tec hydro brakes vrs the zoom brakes that electro and co sells to go on the Etm fork upgrade / I believe same forks as the moto tec 1500 watt forks? And same brake rotors on both brake setups I noticed .
Nah not really, the mototec hydros seem to have a leak problem, and the zoom pads dont last very long. Ive had my stock mototec brakes for over a year now though and use some shimano pads and i really like them! And yeah electro&co sourced the same forks used on the 1000w as they are an inch shorter than the 1600w forks. They just recently sourced the forks from the bombmoto b1/burromax which are basically the same as the 1600w but silver and slighty stiffer.
@EmxBrandon for a mx650 that's not getting stretched in the rear which fits the bike better 1000 watt forks or the 1600watt forks? Thinking about putting a moto tec 14 in front wheel on it 🤔
What do you have different for the B1 motor tune? I hooked up my DKD display and it's on but it doesn't show anything live with the motor or anything.. Is there something I'm supposed to turn on so it reads it? Appreciate you man
And all my dkd settings are towards the end of this video. If your reading speed but nothing else you just gotta change byte option to 6 in the fardriver. th-cam.com/video/_s4nXHcjkdw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=f-Pm9VQaMTotwSpT
Hmm thats a tough question. I dont think i could answer which one is more important since they all have key parts in making the bike what it is. Without a high amp controller you wont be able to push a motor hard, without a high amp battery you wont be able to push the controller hard, and without a motor capable of handing the amps having a high amp controller and battery is wasted. They are all pretty equally important. Buttt in this case having a small motor and small battery i could really push the boundries with a nice controller like the fardriver! So if i had to choose 1 first it would be controller! Then later battery to match or exceed the controllers capable amps, then a motor to turn it all up!
@@EmxBrandon thanks so much for your time on replying, just was curious. I certainly agree with your assessment. Future is looking like it’s going electric so when the big bikes start to convert companies are going to have to put in the same consideration. Wicked build love the mototech conversion. Keep doin what ur doin I enjoy watching your channel as much as any 1,5 or 50 million subscriber channels
Im always doing things on the cheap, so this was a question Ive had in my mind for a long time. I actually get almost all my parts secondhand or in dumpsters/ recycling centers/ Craigslist etc. That includes batteries and motors believe it or not! For my current build I decided to buy a cheapo 3,000w my1020 style motor and controller combo, which saved me from having to design/ build a mount for the BLDC lawn mower motors I usually use. The controller that I got is MASSIVE and while it’s got ample power, it’s not tuned well and there’s no way to do custom tuning on it so the overall ride is not nearly what it could be. I’m starting to shop around for a decent controller now, I know it’ll make a huge difference. Long story short, they are all somewhat equal in importance but the biggest investment is definitely gonna be the batteries and controller. If you have a limited budget I would probably still recommend prioritizing your investment in your battery first because even the cheap motors and controllers will get you a very fun and fast ride. Then later on you can upgrade the controller to increase your pleasure.
@@maukaman thank you much man, helps a lot. Have u checked out my build series? Also peep the 6 month update I made a lil while back, it’s the one with the cop is the thumbnail called razor dirt bike ride +6 month update
Hey dude! I got a fardriver 72300 and I dont have field weakrning on mine. Controller limitation or do I need to update the controller? Had it over a year in the garage before using it! Thanks bud
Hmm thats wierd, i have heard the 72300 was meant for hub motors but that could be hearsay. You might be able to hit restore after you connect the controller to the app and do somewhat of a factory reset. But yeah you might need an update. I would email fardriver and see if they can help you out with an update file!
For android, Google fardriver app for android and the first link should bring you to the fardriver website with the bluetooth dongle and a green box underneath the pic that says download. Press that for the app. In iphone just type in fardriver in the app store
Hola gracias por tu video!! fue muy bueno!!! tengo un motor QS165 y controlador fardriver 72530, lo utilizo en un karting, y actualmente no logro hacer drift (patinar, derrapar) al acelerar desde 0km/h. Que parametro deberia configurar para obtener el maximo torque, maxima potencia y la máxima aceleración desde 0km/h? Mi bateria es de 72V 44AH y el BMS es de maximo 300A de linea
Its come to my attention that my tune that is clearly stated for the MOTOTEC motor is being used for different motors and setups. This tune is for the MOTOTEC! You will need to tune and adjust your parameters per your motor and setup!!
Dude this video is awesome. Thank you for editing it the way you did, with the riding in the background. Voiceover and the screen recording was amazing. Thank you so much for your videos. Im active in the PEV community and Fardriver tuning information was so limited. You have shared some really valuable information. And the first person to post it! Keep up the great work my friend, very impressed!
Thank you for that! Stoked to help the community any way i can! This stuff shouldnt be a secret!!
you have the best far driver videos on yt👏
I appreciate that!! 😁🤙
Another crazy video🔥 I will be messing with my fardriver tomorrow because of this lol
Hell yeah! Let me know how it goes!
@EmxBrandon just done messing with my torque curve 👊🏽👊🏽feels amazing, I think I have mine at 4,6,8 and 12
4 6 8 is a great setting thats how i have my mototec set up and it powers through soft sand amazing!
Hello Brandon, thanks for the vid....lots of great information presented clearly. That said there was one change I would recommend. On the max RPM setting determine the realistic maximum rpm your motor will achieve at top speed and then maybe set the RPM say 10% higher. Even if you have the max speed setting doing the same thing in the console settings, this will provide you with another layer of control.
Having the max RPM set to max (12500) will not increase performance but will make it more likely to damage the motor in the event of a full throttle when the tire is unloaded....like after a minor crash or someone who does not know better balancing the bike on the kick stand (so the tire is in the air) and pinning the throttle to hear the motor spin.
Appreciate the input! I actually go over limiting the rpm in a more current fardriver vid for the bombmoto b1!
in the HighLowSpeed parameter i recommend 0-High only if you havent speed switch - in my observation the motor is more stable in deep field weakening
Would that matter i if i have my mode switch looped so its always in high?
Don't know you must test i havent it looped but i have hub motor maybe this is difference
Very good and interesting thanks for your video
Thank you!
EcoAccCoef is basically how economical it would be like. So for example the higher you tune it the less in efficient in battery consumption 8 is max if you tune it your self you will notice the lower you go the slower your bike will be. At least that’s my case for my 12kw motor and 72850 far driver controller but my old 72530 and 72360 the smaller the number the slower so it would save more batterey and this also apply for my friends that are using FarDriver controllers as well.
Slower as in torque or a throttle ramp? I definitely need to get one of my bikes running again and do some more tests, its been too long! Good info, the more i can learn will definitely help for an updated video.
Lots of good info thanks boss
Thank you!
merci pour ta vidéo je ne je ne savais pas ou trouver ses information 1000 merci de la france
Glad to help!!
Brother nice video 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thank you!!
Thanks !!
No problem!
Yeaaaaaaaa 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
😁🤘
What's up Brandon, just wanted to say thanks for the insight and help. I clocked in 40mph after changing the parameters on my field weakening and going to supermoto wheels. Very impressed with what the 1600w motor can handle! Only warm to the touch! I know going to 72v will increase the top sleed to 45-50mph. But I was just wondering if you felt a drastic incrrase in torque or if there was any torque/acceleration difference at all? Thanks man, im loving this thing so far!
Hell yeah im glad i could help! 40mph is awesome! Yourll definitely get a torque increase on bottom end and the pull will hold longer aswell and wont go flat as soon as 48v. Youll just have to adjust your weakening settings since youll be increasing your rpm with abhigher voltage! Also i forgot to mention in the video the auto learn only detects phase angle youll have to change pole pairs to 5 so you get an accurate rpm reading
@@EmxBrandon that's what I was thinking. My rpm telemetry seemed sporadic, I'll change to 5 pole and report back brother! Another change I did, was adjust the low voltage value for throttle. My telemetry was reading .79v at the lowest. So by changing it to .80v, it was able to be activated the moment I slightly moved the throttle. A bit too sensitive for my liking so I adjusted to 0.85v and it was perfect. 1.1.v was too much free play before turning the motor for me. This will be different for everyone and I'm sure you already know about this. If you have any other setting tweaks, please let me know! Appreciate it man!
I definitely need to make a updated video soon, theres still so much i could touch on with these controllers but wanted to get something basic out anyways. Seems like you got a pretty good handle! If anything play with your phase offset move it up or down by 5 at a time and see if it smooths out take off and improves torque, under pid parameters your AN should be at 16 but you can play with it a lower it to see if it makes the motor smoother through out the pull, and you can move around the torque curve with ki settings aswell right under an. Im always learning something new though with these things 😆
@@EmxBrandon dude! An updated video w/ your understanding of it now would be amazing brotha! One more question, when doing self learning, I noticed you did it on the table with the motor free. I did it with the chain and wheel connected, but lifted up and free spinning. Obviously my way is much more resistance to the motor during this self learning process. Any downfalls to it from what you can tell? It seems each time I self learn the rated speed rpm value will change by a good amount, from 6500 to even 8100. Could you also post a 30sec screen recording of the live graphs during a full throttle pull with your Razor swapped bike? Saw you had one for the QS swapped Mototec which was awesome!
Yeah for sure! Once i get back onto my mototec i got some stuff i wanna test with different parameter settings for sure and make a plan for a video so im not just winging it like this video 😆
Yeah when i do the auto learn ill take chain off if its mounted in the bike that way there is no resistance and your max rpm should more or less stay around the same number and not jump as much as yours is. Its wierd it will still come up with a different number every time 😆 Also make sure your always doing the auto learn on mode 3 max settings you plan to run!
Unfortunately i traded my sx500 for a ktm85 and some cash so i dont have it anymore but i do have a graph recording i can post real quick. It was more of a test hit so it wasnt a very solid pull but you can get an idea of what 70 amps looks like on a stock mototec motor!
Can you do a video like this for the razors
If I can get my hands on one for sure
I reset my settings and now I’m getting a throttle error in the app and I don’t know what I need to change to fix that
What are your throttle high and low parameters at? Should be 1.1 low and 3.9 high?
@@EmxBrandon yeah I ended up figuring it out but thank you so much for the response!! Really appreciate everything you do for the community
Hey are you using the electro and co throttle+3 speed I’m having same issue couldn’t get a picture of how you have it wired, thank you have a great day
@@Jojo_Cr so the problem ended up being that I wasn’t fully connected with the controller. So you need to make sure you’re 100% bound to the controller. With that code they send to your email
If your having trouble figuring out what wire is what, open up the throttle cover and see where the wires run!
Phase is usually set at 3x the line
Key word "usually" not always. Seems like if the line amps are set and the phase amps are set high, its only gonna pull what its pulling. So in this case i have it set to 300 it might actually only be pulling 250ish and thats what makes it feel more torquey than set at 240. 3x is a good starting point for sure but should definitely still be tested passed that to see what the limit is before you start losing power to heat. Its wierd that people started saying that looking at any controllers rated line/phase, like the 72450 is good for 200 max line so why wouldn't it be 600 max phase instead of 450?
Thanks 😎
No prob 👌
Finally.
This ones a bit older, hopefully have a newer updated one out very soon. Someof the info i said is incorrect like the auto learn doesnt change pole pairs, thats something you have to change yourself
It's very good thank you for that info. If you find any other, let us know but that's cool.@@EmxBrandon
👌🏻
😁🤘
Hey man it’s awesome that you decided to do this video I really needed a decent teacher on this and also I just did the time for my bike but my battery over heated and stopped me from riding. I couldn’t accelerate at all and my battery was rapidly draining now it’s holding charge and it’s ridin but I just don’t wanna over heat it is there a way to stop the heat or slow it down ig🤷🏾♂️
I also have a 48v does that change for the rates voltage in the app?
You most likely need to turn it down, you might be pushing it too hard, is this the stock battery?
And no it wont change the rated voltage just the watt output, and youll jeed to adjust your ratio in speed to match the rpm your getting with 48v. Otherwise everything will stay the same!
@@EmxBrandon yes it’s the stock battery and what’s a good recommendation for rpm wise I just wanna stunt and do wheelies
Okay this help alot. I have a zero zf 75-10. Do you think the auto learn will work on this type of motor? It has sim/cos encoder. Its a RLS rm44. If it will, do you think that the the actual rated power will be made from this set up? I was looking at the ND961800 encoder version of the fardriver.
I honestly cant answer that confidently but i have yet to see a motor the fardriver hasnt worked great for!
Anyway you can make a video tuning the encoder qs165?
Probably not anytime soon, the mototec is on the back burner right now and meeds to go under the knife to fit a big 72v battery so i can actually push the 165!
@@EmxBrandon yeah I have a 72330b and it's working fine I just can't seem to adjust the throttle decel.. it was set at 6? Changed it to 224 but nothing seems to have changed..
Is there a video showing the boost cable I believe you did one but now I can’t find qs138
Unfortunately i never recorded wiring it up, but basically you just need to hook brown to a button and ground it out. Its been awhile and when i used it it was pretty garbage but it seems like the newer controllers finally have it down.
by hitting the auto-learn button, shouldn't all the parameter values set themselves?
Negative autolearn just learns the phase angle and makes sure it's firing I. The correct order. Otherwise you need to change pole pairs, current, field weakening setting, the whole 9.
I have a problem, when i am not driving the controller goes into a walking gear and it goes max 5kmh. Then when i twist the trottle a few times it goes back to normal. Is it a setting?
Hmm not sure, that's not a setting I know of atleast
Any ideas why my setup has very little power below 500rpm and then kicks in to have way more power.?
What's your gear ratio? From what I understand fardriver only gives you 50% of your phase amps under 50p rpm
Hello brother, i have problem with phase offset. Not really smooth when i start for the first time.
I just using BLDC 10kw golden motor and controller nd96850 for my mini car.
What's your "an" under pid parameters set too? Is the golden motor a ipm or spm motor, if ipm set it to an16, redo autolearn and adjust phase offset up or down as needed!
@@EmxBrandon actually i don't know what's an16. But i Will try..
Hey Brandon just got my far driver install on my razor I have it set up like the stock razor and it’s running backwards I can not get to the screen that I can change rotation I don’t have the expert button to get into parameters . To change motor to 0
Sounds like the app needs an update! Youll need 219apk
@@EmxBrandon I found the rotation on it it set to 0 i changed to 1 to change direction and save . Have a zone limit save disabled please contact seller . I paid to have it programmed for the razor chassis. With the chain on the right side . Not sure why they lock my controller.
@Chad Pipkin are you in iPhone or android?
@@EmxBrandon iPhone.
Do it work for mototech 72 volt 5000w?
I'm tuning for a MY1020 3000w motor. I set similar parameters except lowered my max line/phase amps. The bike cuts out when going into full throttle. The battery is a good Amorge 200amp so I doubt it's BMS there's only a 4-5 volt drop max.
Any suggestion?
Whats your throttle voltage set too? Shpuld be 1.1 low and 3.9 high, try changing it to 4.1 or vice versa
@@EmxBrandon 1.1 low and 3.8 high I tried 4.0 but it still cuts off. I'll post on the FB group you suggested in your description.
@@ThugLifePr0ductions yeah definitely and screenshot all your parameters in the comments so we can go through and check them out
@@ThugLifePr0ductionsdid you ever get it figured out my my 1020 is doing the same thing cutting out
Can you custom tune an EM50 controller just like this?
You can but its alot more difficult and there isnt much info to go off of. The manuals are terrible and nothing really describes the parameters. I do think they have bluetooth but i dont believe there is a phone app. Generally i tell people to stay away from them unless they have good experience with controllers and have the patience to figure them out.
awesome video thank you! new here might be stupid ? but if my ration in gear is set to 25,50,50,75 does this mean i can push my motor harder? or do i run the risk of frying something if i turn it up? thanks again for your time.
Ratio in gear is just your mode 1 & 2 you can turn those both to 100 all the way through and it will just match your mode 3 which is your main parameters.
@@EmxBrandon awesome! Thank you for the quick reply! If I don’t have a mode switch it doesn’t really apply to me then? Thanks again!🤙🏼🫡
@Jinkzed01 correct, just make sure you have that loop connector plugged into the 3 speed connector off the controller harness or youll be stuck in mode 2!
I have a welded freewheel and it cogs when i let off the throttle why does it do this?!
Im not too sure, do you have regen set up?
Bro awesome may i know your motor how many watts?
Thank you! The bike was at 5300w on a stock 1500w mototec motor!
if i dont have a 3 speed switch. whats the fastest way to turn a 50mph tune into a 25mph with changing the least amount of stuff in the app? thanks again!
Limit the max rpm to whatever rpm 25mph gets you!
YOU DA MAN! thanks again for your time
@@EmxBrandon
@Jinkzed01 no problem! And if you wanna kill off some torque too lower your max phase amps aswell, that way less experienced people can rude it without looping!
I have a 72360 and I am trying to set it up with a Vevor 2000w motor with (for the time being) a 48v 20ah with 30amp BMS.
Once completed the auto-learn (several times) the motor doesn't run smooth and stutters a bit passing the 3000 rpm.
I have tried all the suggestions given by the fardriver groups, but I was unsuccessful. Hope you can help me somehow.
I would really appreciate the help so I can finish the bike for my son.
Hmm ive never messed with the my1020s before so im not too sure. Maybe try changing weak response to 0 and weak character to slow. Maybe that has something to do with it. Also are all of your ratios in speed turned up to 100 all the way through the rpms?
@EmxBrandon I will try to change the weak response to 0 and slow. I have kept the ratios in speed as they were set by the autolearn. What are your thoughts? Should I put them to 100, as you indicated in your video?
Definitely set them all the 100, the my1020 dont respond to field weakening well and are meant for low rpm and high torque. So the motors probably wigging oit with the weakening kicking in right away
Thank you, I will try and keep you in the loop.
@@alymeneguzzi9136was this the fix?
Is this the same if I order the 72450? What's your opinion on that controller Is it too small?
Yeah it will be the same for all fardrivers other than whatever line and phase amps the controller is capable of. And the 450 is a great middle ground and plenty for the minis we play with. Its good for 200 line and 450 phase. Plenty of over head running 100/220 on the b1 motor!
@@EmxBrandon Right on perfect man! I appreciate you so much! I'm ordering the new Kelly that has field weakening, flipsky 200pro, and the 7240 fardriver since you confirmed to test on the B1, the razors my1020s and the new FW11. I need to just have each one in hand and run some video test
Thanks for the vid 😀 1 Question please. I have a split rim 72 volt 3500 + hub motor x2, I am happy to achieve 45 mph, which Fardriver model to you recommend? Thanks again.
A 72360 shpuld do ya right!
i have a 1800w 48v vevor motor and 48v battery would these settings run good ?
Probably not the best, i would do the auto learn and after set all your ratios in speed to 100% all through the rpm range. And if you need help look me up on facebook and shoot me a message!
@@EmxBrandon yea i need help with the wiring for connectors none of them wants to connect
@fxlack0312 shoot me a mesaage on facebook and ill see if i can help!
What max amps would you suggest for Stump E-box 2kw 60volt battery?
So im pretty sure its the same motor as the mototec and i think 70 amps is right in the edge of to much but enough to have fun 👌
What controler are you running on that ebox? 🤔
I changed wheel/gear ratio in display settings, but the speed in display is still the same. Do you know if another setting should be flipped with it? Thanks!
You have to change the actual display parameters on the display itself. Theres manuals with all the passwords and codes on siaecosys website. Which display do you have?
@@EmxBrandon Thanks! It's DKD, the same as you had in this video "Dkd Display Install On The 8000w Qs Swapped Mototec"
I found a manual but it does not say about the code for gears.
@Vlad Lo heres what i have. Its a single page pdf with all the passwords to change things like mph
Password 153 to set circumference, pole pairs, offset, units:mm. Default circumference is 1413. After circumference setting, long press right button to
enter into pole pairs and offset setting. Default setting is PL-28-08, pole pairs is 28.(For mid drive motor, pole pair setting
should be:pole pair*reducation ratio.), 08 means offset
@Vlad Lo heres all of it incase you cant find it
061(DKD) function setting explaination
1. Speedometer can Identify the controller One-line or CAN-BUS communication
automatically. One-line and CAN-BUS is not able to do Interactive recognition when it’s in working
condition, it’s only able to do automatic identification in starting up. 2. Function setting
Left button for adjusting data, right button for shifting, long press right button for
exiting. Pressing left button to start up the speedometer, enter into password setting
interface, showing CC---, pressing left button to input password, right button for
shifting. Password 153 to set circumference, pole pairs, offset, units:mm. Default circumference is 1413. After circumference setting, long press right button to
enter into pole pairs and offset setting. Default setting is PL-28-08, pole pairs is 28.(For mid drive motor, pole pair setting
should be:pole pair*reducation ratio.), 08 means offset. Password 256, select 2 speed gear or normal 3 speed gear, -2 is 2 speed, -0 is normal
3 speed gear. Password 372, reset ODO, limit 3 times. Password 856, select 60V/72V/96V/48V range, synchronize with battery bar.
If matched lithium battery has compitable CAN-BUS protocal with speedometer, then
it will reads the SOC automatically. If they don’t have, then speedometer will read
the battery voltage. When use lead-acid battery to replace lithium battery, the speedometer needs to
re-power. Password 879, fixed voltage calibration, 60V/72V/96V/48V, correspond to settings. Password 824, self input voltage calibration. Password 974, KPH and MPH switchover
Password 928, to shut the D/N/R indictor light.
@@EmxBrandon Ok, I see, looks like I need to change circumference to a lower number. Not sure about the pole pairs. My motor (8kw) doc says it's 4 pole pairs.
Anyway will mess with the circumference first. Thanks for the tips!
Ur using 2300w motor? Why not use kunray 3000w 72v it wont get heat up u can push more apms to even 100.
Im using a 1500w mototec motor!
Is there a difference in performance on the moto tec hydro brakes vrs the zoom brakes that electro and co sells to go on the Etm fork upgrade / I believe same forks as the moto tec 1500 watt forks? And same brake rotors on both brake setups I noticed .
Nah not really, the mototec hydros seem to have a leak problem, and the zoom pads dont last very long. Ive had my stock mototec brakes for over a year now though and use some shimano pads and i really like them! And yeah electro&co sourced the same forks used on the 1000w as they are an inch shorter than the 1600w forks. They just recently sourced the forks from the bombmoto b1/burromax which are basically the same as the 1600w but silver and slighty stiffer.
@EmxBrandon for a mx650 that's not getting stretched in the rear which fits the bike better 1000 watt forks or the 1600watt forks? Thinking about putting a moto tec 14 in front wheel on it 🤔
@anthonymoy4471 if your putting a 14in i definitely recommend the 1600w forks!
@EmxBrandon do you know the measurement on the 1600 w forks like 550mm or 580mm or 600mm?
@@anthonymoy4471 25in or 635mm
What do you have different for the B1 motor tune? I hooked up my DKD display and it's on but it doesn't show anything live with the motor or anything.. Is there something I'm supposed to turn on so it reads it? Appreciate you man
Skip to 34:10 for the b1 tune
th-cam.com/video/PLxVuJqmhTA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AWjoS2_sDPmkCciQ
And all my dkd settings are towards the end of this video. If your reading speed but nothing else you just gotta change byte option to 6 in the fardriver.
th-cam.com/video/_s4nXHcjkdw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=f-Pm9VQaMTotwSpT
Which controller sre you using and which wire did you use for one-line, light blue, or brown?
@@EmxBrandon awesome thank you I knew I saw it but I couldn't find it 🤦🏻♂️
@@EmxBrandon 72450 controller and I have it ran to the blue
Would you say battery or motor is more important. Is it batt,motor or ecu that makes a bike fast
Hmm thats a tough question. I dont think i could answer which one is more important since they all have key parts in making the bike what it is. Without a high amp controller you wont be able to push a motor hard, without a high amp battery you wont be able to push the controller hard, and without a motor capable of handing the amps having a high amp controller and battery is wasted. They are all pretty equally important. Buttt in this case having a small motor and small battery i could really push the boundries with a nice controller like the fardriver! So if i had to choose 1 first it would be controller! Then later battery to match or exceed the controllers capable amps, then a motor to turn it all up!
@@EmxBrandon thanks so much for your time on replying, just was curious. I certainly agree with your assessment. Future is looking like it’s going electric so when the big bikes start to convert companies are going to have to put in the same consideration. Wicked build love the mototech conversion. Keep doin what ur doin I enjoy watching your channel as much as any 1,5 or 50 million subscriber channels
Man that means alot brother! Appreciate that!!
Im always doing things on the cheap, so this was a question Ive had in my mind for a long time. I actually get almost all my parts secondhand or in dumpsters/ recycling centers/ Craigslist etc. That includes batteries and motors believe it or not! For my current build I decided to buy a cheapo 3,000w my1020 style motor and controller combo, which saved me from having to design/ build a mount for the BLDC lawn mower motors I usually use. The controller that I got is MASSIVE and while it’s got ample power, it’s not tuned well and there’s no way to do custom tuning on it so the overall ride is not nearly what it could be. I’m starting to shop around for a decent controller now, I know it’ll make a huge difference.
Long story short, they are all somewhat equal in importance but the biggest investment is definitely gonna be the batteries and controller. If you have a limited budget I would probably still recommend prioritizing your investment in your battery first because even the cheap motors and controllers will get you a very fun and fast ride. Then later on you can upgrade the controller to increase your pleasure.
@@maukaman thank you much man, helps a lot. Have u checked out my build series? Also peep the 6 month update I made a lil while back, it’s the one with the cop is the thumbnail called razor dirt bike ride +6 month update
Hey dude!
I got a fardriver 72300 and I dont have field weakrning on mine. Controller limitation or do I need to update the controller? Had it over a year in the garage before using it!
Thanks bud
Hmm thats wierd, i have heard the 72300 was meant for hub motors but that could be hearsay. You might be able to hit restore after you connect the controller to the app and do somewhat of a factory reset. But yeah you might need an update. I would email fardriver and see if they can help you out with an update file!
What app are you using?
Fardriver app
@@EmxBrandon I can't find it on the app store.
@PFCOH apple or android?
@@EmxBrandon android
@PFCOH www.far-driver.com/the-controller-app-for-android/
I thought i read somewhere these mototec motors respond really well to weakening. Im suprised you dont run more..
Run more? This tune is maxed out for this tiny motor.
What is the name of the fardriver app
For android, Google fardriver app for android and the first link should bring you to the fardriver website with the bluetooth dongle and a green box underneath the pic that says download. Press that for the app.
In iphone just type in fardriver in the app store
Perfect on my 1020 kunray 3kw way better tune
Hey! This tune is meant for the mototec, just be careful and keep an eye in temps and make sure everything sounds and feels smooth!
Eco i never tested 😂 😉👍
😆 im sure its too soft for my blood
Hola gracias por tu video!! fue muy bueno!!! tengo un motor QS165 y controlador fardriver 72530, lo utilizo en un karting, y actualmente no logro hacer drift (patinar, derrapar) al acelerar desde 0km/h. Que parametro deberia configurar para obtener el maximo torque, maxima potencia y la máxima aceleración desde 0km/h? Mi bateria es de 72V 44AH y el BMS es de maximo 300A de linea
I would have to see your parameters to be able to help. But chances are your gearing is way too tall for off the line torque.