It's great that for this video the coffee being cleaned out is so powdery and fresh, not almost solidly caked on there, as mine is. Takes soaking in hot water and much work to clean off that residue in my experience.
I've had my Rocky grinder for about 10 years, and about 5 years ago I had to start using a fork to push beans down to grind beans for my Rancilio Silvia. After watching this video (nicely done by the way) I decided to go for it and see if I could fix it...HOLY CRAP was it dirty and caked-on nastiness. The hardest part was to remove the adjustment collar, but a little leverage did the trick. I thoroughly cleaned everything and and calibrating it to the proper location was a piece o cake. Now it looks and grinds like new! Thank you for this GREAT video!
+Kuduku on this video at 1:00, you can see three holes in the top of the collar (where the screws from the hopper attach). I was able to remove it by... 1) getting a small allen (hex) wrench and sticking it into one of the holes 2) Sticking a socket wrench (long shaft) onto the center shaft, but you could use a regular wrench too 3) carefully turn the collar by using opposing force on the allen wrench and socket wrench COUNTER CLOCKWISE so the collar breaks free. If your grinder is really dirty, it will take some effort... but much easier than trying to turn it using only your hands.
+Kevin Brown i actually made it finally, thanks for the help i actually used so much strength in kilos that i assume you that it was impossible to open with bare hands i used a big plumber wrench tool and got the job done...
+Kevin Brown Creating leverage is a great idea. But keep in mind those threaded holes are brass, and the threads can easily be damaged by the sideways force on whatever you stick in the hole(s). If you have a longer screw/bolt that could be threaded deeply into the hole, it could be levered against with less risk to brass threads.
I disassembled my 12-year-old Pasquini Moca and couldn't figure out how to recalibrate it. I was about to give up when I stumbled upon this video. Spot on! WHL saves the day! P.S. if you find it difficult to reinsert the aluminum upper portion, put it in the freezer for a few minutes and it'll give less resistance.
This video is concise and super useful. My problem was I couldn't turn the dial below setting 9. And I had to use the finest flat screwdriver to scrap off all the gunk from the screw thread entirely in the process. It's a delight to figure out how to find the 0 setting and readjust the stopper. Thanks again!
Thank you! This worked perfectly. For anyone who cannot screw the brass part all the way in, try cleaning the threads of the stainless steel and brass parts with a firm bristle brush.
Hi JP, Thanks for your comment and sharing your tip! Threads need to be clean or it will be difficult if not nearly impossible to get the brass part screwed in.
This ! Had to scrub the stainless and brass threads and then use a wet washcloth to get the dried up coffee out of the threads ( I use it around 40-45 for pour overs mostly) When I go to adjust down to grind espresso (10ish) It sticks and is hard to turn. Turns out the threads were gummed up bad.
In replacing my burrs (and thoroughly cleanning all surfaces) I found my stop post to be at least an inch out of place, so I guess without the adjustable stop on the older rockies I am sol until I buy a new hopper. I have issues with spinning the motor electrically and hearing when the burrs touch. If ya can't findem just grindem! The top of the motor shaft is a 12mm so I just used a long socket and an extension to spin the the shaft with by hand so as to keep those burrs as close to factory fresh as possible. Since my stop is not configurable I decided to remove the sticker and zero it that way. Probably not something I would want to do every time but it works for me. This by the way is the best video on the subject I have watched so far. Thx!
two tips: i) removing the bottom grinder at 1:20 may be difficult if it's been a while -- use a toothpick to remove gummed coffee between the grinder and base. ii) after re-installing parts, lightly tap the (black) grinding button -- if you hear any metal-to-metal sounds, your burrs are touching and you should go back and leave more space between them (cf. 3:38). also make sure the screws on the bottom of the hopper that fix the stop are secure. thanks for the excellent video!
Thank you. This saved me 2 weeks or more for waiting for repair. My grinder just stopped working, I called service from another company and they said I'd need to bring it in because I couldn't even hear the motor. I took everything apart and cleaned it and it's running like there was never an issue.
It has been quite a while since I REALLY cleaned the entire machine. Thank you for the detailed instruction. My big mistake was in seeing the phillips head screws holding the exit chute to the front of the machine and assuming that the screws that hold the hopper and burrs were also phillips head. Bad assumption. Your vid cleared that up. Thanks.
Great video. You mentioned important stuff other people would tend to leave out and just assume people know, like that the burrs are exactly the same and it doesn't matter which you put back in top or bottom. Thanks much. And thanks for selling my my Jura S9 Avant Garde years ago. Thanks to regular cleaning and descaling and using the optional filter, it's still going strong with very few issues along the way. This was also a refurbished S9 so I was wary about it, but everything was like new, even the drip tray was new and covered with a peel off plastic film I've recommended you again and again since my experience has been so stellar with this machine you sold me.
Hi UB, Thanks for the kind comment and happy to hear your refurbed S9 is still in the game. Take care of these machines and they will take care of your coffee for many years!
Maybe this gets lost in the comments but: If it has been a while (or even a frew whiles) since the last cleaning/burr change, there is going to be sticky stuff (rancid oils from coffee and fines from grinding.) gumming up the works so you will make slower progress than shown here. Gloves are a good idea, the oils are very sticky and you'll end up with a lot of hand washing otherwise. A lot. That and having the vacuum standign by will make it a neater job. You might need to remove the bottom carrier to get it clean enough to properly seat the burrs. And hey, you are in there, might as well get it all clean and nice again. And the big threads (the ones that hold the top burr) will need lots of attention (female and male) with a brass brush or a series of toothpicks (your strokes aligned with those stainless (?) threads on the female side and something softer still on the brass male bits.) All to scoop out that sticky mess. This will give your adujstments the free travel up and down that you hoped for. While you have it open, take off the blue plastic shoot in front and clean it and the path to it. Ahh, that's better.
Need to pull the lower burr holder to get it clean. Real PITA to clean. but easy to service. NEED TO MAKE SURE BURRS ARE SQUARED do it by sound/feel , they should contact evenly at the bottom. If made after a "Business lunch" at the factory, they are often not square. it will work out of square, just not grind evenly.
how about how to remove the doser chamber to clean out grinds on the inside, which are inaccessible when you remove the hopper. I can't find any info on this anywhere!
What i would like to know is whether it's possible to have dull burrs sharpened. Importing new Rocky burrs into Brazil is extremely expensive, increasing their European or U.S. original price by 466% - so a pair of burrs that cost $50 in Europe or the U.S. cost the equivalent of $233 here.
Hi b, Wow that's unfortunate! I have heard of burrs from very expensive grinders being reconditioned but it's a very specialized process. Less common today with the use of coatings on modern burrs. Think it would be difficult to find someone to sharpen.
I received a rocky purchased from you guys as a gift about 2 weeks ago. It’s not grinding fine enough, so I followed the instructions here to little avail. I noticed that when burrs touch they’re making very uneven contact so some alignment info would be helpful. I’m also puzzled as to why my ‘brand new’ rocky has the older non-adjustable stop screw??
Hi Zach, It's highly unusual for burrs to make uneven contact when touching. You might verify the burrs are properly mounted. Any coffee debris behind the burrs could through them off. Not sure why your grinder has the older stop screw. Is it possible the gift was a reconditioned Rocky? If you continue to have issues please contact our Tech Support here for assistance: www.wholelattelove.com/pages/contact-us
Hi Andrew, My guess is there some coffee debris in the fine threads of the adjustment preventing it from screwing in all the way. You may need to use something like a needle to manually clean the threads.
Hello I have a problem with the Ranchello coffee grinder which is the numbers fixed and difficult after the jaw with difficulty has become the disc and pull the disc clockwise stands in the middle and does not reach the required limit
Amazing, easy to follow and mega helpful. I bought mine second hand and I wish the guy knew he had to clean it. It was disgusting! I have to buy spare grinder bolts though, it took some effort with the coffee jammed in underneath 😤
Is it normal after cleaning everything amd replacing the burr with new burrs that it takes longer for the grounds to come out? I only put in the amount of coffee i intennd to make each time i use it.
Hi Andrew, A couple of things might be increasing length of time. First, new burrs need to season meaning they are coated with oils from the beans. As the burrs are lubricated grinding speed in grams per second of output increases. Second, All grinders have some degree of internal retention. The nooks and crannies where ground coffee accumulates. This reduces output for a few grind cycles.
Hey DZ, Be sure to use a screwdriver of appropriate size. One that fits as snugly as possible in the screw head. With that and enough force they should free up. Other tips: Try turning to tighten the screw before trying to loosen - seems counterintuitive but often helps. With screwdriver in screw head slot light taps with hammer can help. Apply some heat to the screw head. For that you can try heating the tip of the screwdriver then holding the tip in slot of screw head for 15-20 seconds to heat it up and then try removing. Can also use a propane torch very carefully to apply heat directly to the screw head for a few seconds and then try removing. Hope that helps!
I had to pull apart my Rocky after a long time. The coffee goo is an excellent thread lock. Got everything off except one screw, which got mangled. I had to pull out the bottom brass element by removing the center bolt (12 mm socket, not pliers!), and eventually drilled out and removed the screw head. I ordered some new screws, but they are screwy. The slot is significantly wider than most American-sold screwdrivers, so unless you grind down the tip of a sacrificial screwdriver, you are going to have problems. If there is a next time, I will replace the screws with stainless torx heads. A slotted head has no business on those screws. I never found a good solvent for that coffee goo; heat probably would have worked, but that was my desperation stage. Pliers on a machined nut (as in your vid) are rarely a good idea, but the vid is great otherwise.@@Wholelattelovepage
I can't get my burrs to touch (as shown at the 3:00 mark). I've got the top screwed all the way back down, but my center shaft still turns because they're not touching - ??
So, after reading through all the comments below and seeing another that had my same issue...I did what he did and solved my problem by pulling out my reading glasses and a dental pick to ensure that every groove was clean. I *thought* I'd cleaned them well - I hadn't. After a really surgical cleaning what I thought couldn't possibly be my problem...it fixed my problem. It was interesting at how a single groove's worth of thick coffee kept my head from screwing all the way down. Lesson learned: clean, clean, and then clean again. :)
Would you guys please give instruction on determining whether the burrs in a Rocky are in need of replacement. I have a pretty old Rocky and would like to know if I should consider replacing the burrs. Of course I don't want to spend the money if not necessary. A video on the subject showing worn compared to new ones would be ideal. If this information is already available somewhere, I'd appreciate a point in the right direction. Many thanks!
Hi Lawson, Very difficult to determine if burrs need replacement by just looking at them. Our repair techs say they can feel them to get an idea but advise that's only after years of experience. Most grinder manufacturers we talk to like Ceado, Baratza, Etc. recommend burr replacement after grinding about 1000lb/450kg of coffee. If amount ground is unknown, our techs recommend replacement every 2 years for average daily home use and annually for heavy home or light commercial use. If you feel you need to replace they are available here: www.wholelattelove.com/products/burrs-d50
Thank you for your demostration , I have just done as you show you have saved me my machine, the one previewsely was not as detailed as you, my machine would have now been unusable, if i followed the the one before!
thanks - super helpful! Though I could not totally close my burrs - that seems to be the factory design. As it gets close the collar thread tightens and wont go further. Any thoughts? All the best
Just changed burrs after 10 yrs. We've never had fine enough grind and the band reads negative 12. Followed your video, but the part where it says to replace the upper burr assembly and turn until rotor cannot spin? I reach a point where I can no longer turn the assembly but the rotor still spins freely. I put it all back together, grind is still too coarse and the only adjustment direction to go is coarser. Any ideas on how to get the burrs closer?
Hi x, Threads must be really gummed up. Was it sitting unused or grind size never adjusted for long period? Anyway, you'll just need to try harder. You could try putting the screws back in without the hopper on to give you more leverage. Marc
I followed your instructions to a T but my zero went 0 to 21. Where I used to grind at 5, I know have to grind at 29. It is a bit odd but the espresso comes out fine.
Hi Max, Could it be you placed the hopper on in a different position? You may be able to remove the hopper and re-position it so the numbers line up better.
Whole Latte Love If I put the hopper back so that the screw is at the internal stop position, then my zero stop is more like 8 or 9 when I need a 5. I am going to fix the problem with a new hopper and the adjustable stop
Max Power 8 or 9 seems reasonable. The numbers on the hopper are arbitrary to some extent and dependent on burr wear and other variables. I've never calibrated a Rocky and had it end up exactly where it was prior to calibration.
The 3rd time I have cheaned my rancilio grinder, all went well. sadly this time , one screw from the lower brrr refuses to come off I have tried in many ways just did the best I could, but it is not the same, any suggestion?
Hi ET, Typical methods for loosening stubborn fasteners is shock, heat and penetrating oils. For shock try turning to tighten (counter-intuitive I know) then go the other way. For heat, careful use of a propane torch to warm up the screw. Marc
I've found that there is a bit of slop in the threads. If I calibrate as directed it doesn't grind fine enough for espresso. If I pull up while screwing down it calibrates ok. Not a problem when grinding for drip but burrs touch after grinding for espresso. Do you think this is something that can be fixed?
Hi t, Thanks for the question. Seems odd that you cannot grind fine enough for espresso after calibrating as directed. I'm a little confused and/or not understanding as you go on to say the burrs touch after grinding for espresso. My gut says it's not slop in the threads. They are very fine and if there were slop it's unlikely you'd be able to get the top burr carrier turned in. If you are in the US, you can contact our Tech Support staff here for further assistance if needed: www.wholelattelove.com/contact-us
My Rocky also has a problem with sloppy threads, and I think it's been like that since I got it ten years ago. I just found out about the "rocky teflon tape fix" -- go ahead and google it -- and it seems to make a whole lot of difference to how fine it can go without the burrs touching.
I got one of these for free from a co-worker. The coffee powder and oil formed a tar on the adjustments threads that I couldn't remove. Everything inside had the same tar-like coating. I thought I finally got it clean but couldn't get the adjustment collar to screw all the way down because of the threads being bound by the sticky stuff. Sadly it ended up in the trash. I wouldn't want to clean one of these on a regular basis and would never recommend it..... especially for a beginner.
The calibration on my Rocky for some reason stopped going below 10, making my grounds far too coarse for espresso. This video was just what I was looking for as I figured I waited too long to give Rocky a good cleaning. Unfortunately it didn't help. Problem is the top burr does not screw down to a "zero point" where the two burrs touch. I can't for the life of me see anything that would be stopping it from screwing down. I cleaned it completely.
Alan Brunettin Hi Alan, just to confirm, after cleaning you can not screw the top burr down to the extent that it makes contact with the lower burr? If that's the case, we suggest re-cleaning the threads on the adjustment collar and in the grinding chamber and trying again. Coffee residue in the threads is the first suspect causing inability to reach zero point. It could be caused by thread damage/cross-threading as well. However, if you can turn the adjustment collar in at least a few full turns that's probably not the problem.
Whole Latte Love That indeed was the issue. I couldn't believe it. I was sure I had cleaned the threads sufficiently; certainly it LOOKED fairly clean. But I went back with a much stiffer brush and even went at the single thread or two that refused to give up the ghost with my fingernail. I just couldn't believe that little amount of gunk would stop the burr from screwing down; a testament to how little tolerance is allowed in the machining of the brass. Also a lesson in staying away from the really greasy beans. Here I thought I preferred them. No more! Thanks! Oh also, I repositioned the adjustable stop-point and now "9" is actually "0" on the hopper's gauge. That's dumb. Why don't they make the index movable too? Oh well...
Alan Brunettin Glad to hear you solved the problem! You are right threads can be very tight in adjustment collars and it takes surprisingly little to make them very difficult to turn.
Whole Latte Love Indeed. However...and let me say here, I understand this isn't a tech support line (I did buy my Rocky--and Silvia--from you at least) but I am flummoxed here. I just drew a double with my newly ground beans and I had to stop the flow because I got about a half-cup of coffee in just about 10 secs! And this was at a 5 setting. I went back into it to make sure I had zeroed it out. This time I really screwed it down stopping the bottom burr and backed-off only slightly; even doing the sound test of the burrs rubbing to make sure I was at absolute zero. Now it registers at "5" on the hopper's index. I drew another double and tho I was able to run it for the minimum 20 secs I still got a lot more than a double shot. And the resulting cappuccio was rather thin and drab. How can this be? I was just a hair off the burrs rubbing and still the grounds were too coarse?.
I am having a lot of challenge re-assembling machine: threads of the adjustment collar are well-aligned, but it doesn't want to hand tighten AT ALL, and binds up early. Hard to see what if anything is causing the problem.
Hi Gregg, Likely some coffee residue still in the threads making it difficult. Try cleaning the threads more thoroughly. But do be sure the thread are lined up properly and don't force things. We recommend turning backwards (counterclockwise) first until you hear or feel the threads drop into position before turning clockwise to engage the threads and continue screwing on.
It doesn't take much residue at all to prevent re-threading. Eventually I decided on a more drastic solution: using the bean bowl for more leverage. 1. I removed the stop screw. 2. reattached the bean bowl using the (3) screws). 3. Screwed it back on until the burrs touched, then backed of 30 degrees or so. 4. Unscrewed the (3) screws, 5. Re-inserted the 'stop screw'. All in all, cleaning out all the coffee oil and broken beans from between the burrs made the machine much more capable of fine grinds, and my pulls are much better! This video was amazing.
Hi Gregg, Happy to hear you got it back together and thanks for the kind comment and sharing your experience. For others reading this - be careful and don't force things cross-threading makes for a very unhappy day!
Hello , I have a Rancilio Rocky and I just cleaned it. I made it nice as new, the problem is when I screwed it back and re-calibrated it, It was completely blocked at the 0 setting. It's like someone put super glue on the thread, it can't be moved at all! I'm completely desperate, I hope you can give me some resolution tips! Thanks
+Kuduku They can be very difficult to remove if they have not been cleaned on a regular basis. Outside chance it may be cross threaded - hopefully that's not the case. You might try using physics to assist in your effort. Run the grinder for 60 seconds or so to warm things up then apply an ice pack to the interior area of the upper burr carrier for a minute or two. This should cause the metal to contract ever so slightly. Hopefully enough to allow you to remove. If that doesn't work try a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the entire outer area burr carrier. This may help make the coffee gunk a little looser allowing you to remove. Be careful not to get too hot and burn yourself or damage anything. Let us know how you make out.
+Whole Latte Love i actually made it finally, thanks for the help i actually used so much strength in kilos that i assume you that it was impossible to open with bare hands i used a big plumber wrench tool and got the job done... From now on i'll clean it every 6 months considering that i'm using it every day
Mine is a month old and I've mostly managed to widen the hole in the screws. Not the greatest screws Rancilio uses. Also I need a ticker flat head screwdriver
@@mathieuclement8011 Screw heads have sizes. Use the right one and life is as it should be. Any gunsmith or mechanic will give you a sad look if you knacker them up. Some folks shouldn't be around anything sharp.
Hi Richard, That really depends on how much coffee you've ground in those ten years. Should be good for >400lb/200kg. Honestly if considering new burrs I'd think about a new grinder. They've come a long way! Always found the grind at espresso sizes a bit clumpy from the Rocky. Also limited in precision with its stepped grind size adjustment. Marc
@@Wholelattelovepage I suppose it might be time. I used to think of the Rocky as the sweet spot price/performance for an espresso grinder. What is the new sweet spot? The Ode?
@@icowrich For price/performance in a no frills manual on demand machine grade grinder the Eurkeka Mignon Facile is har to beat. Read the user reviews here: www.wholelattelove.com/collections/espresso-grinders/products/eureka-mignon-facile-espresso-grinder Marc
@@Wholelattelovepage I also like the idea of a machine that I can eventually upgrade with SSP burrs. The Mazzer mini seems with 58mm burrs look good for that, but I don't want a doser.
@@icowrich Ya, dosing grinders are so 10 years ago! I'm not a fan of Mazzer grinders - they had plenty of fans back in the day and probably still do - driven by nostalgia. My issue is the top burr rests on 3 springs and there is little to no protection of the grind collar adjustment threads from coffee grounds and oils. Those three springs may allow the top burr to wobble up/down potentially decreasing grind particle size consistency. I have no proof of that but seems possible. Beyond that, it's a very difficult grinder to clean! The adjustment threads get gummed up eventually making size adjustment stiff and jumpy. And the holes where the springs sit fill with coffee gunk. If your willing to go to the Mazzer price range I'd take a close look at the Ceado E series grinders. The E5P is manual on demand and the E6P is same burr set with 2 timed presets or on demand grinding. Much better grind size adjustment mechanism than the Mazzers and adjustment threads are well protected. They feature 64mm burrs, are not dosers and produce a nice fluffy and well distributed grind into portafilter. And they can be upgraded with SSP Red Speed burrs: www.wholelattelove.com/products/ssp-red-speed-coated-64mm-grinding-burrs Here a video comparing the current lineup of Ceado's E series grinders: th-cam.com/video/4EL5J4bTXt0/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps! Marc
@whole latte love.Sorry to confuse. I wasn't implying you show that In your video. Lost Comma posted that he himself had removed and refit sticker and you thanked him for his advice and comments. Can you comment on any other aspect of my posts as keen to hear your opinion?
If the steel wears out wouldnt you have to worry about metal particles in your coffee?? How do you know your filtering out all of the steel? Anyone used to sharpening fine knives knows what im talking abt
@Whole Latte Love Yes but if they claim they wear out and need replacing. Seems steel to steel is the issue not coffee to steel. What's wearing out is my question really You know
Hi Frank, Thanks for the comment. We do our best to make superior content. I have used Urnex Grindz: www.wholelattelove.com/products/urnex-grindz-grinder-cleaner-15-2oz-bottle It gets the job done but is fairly expensive. It makes sense for those who want to clean the grinder without taking it apart. This video is rather old I don't think Grindz existed when video was made. Marc
It would be lovely to know what "older models mean". I certainly can't, owning only two hands, press the on switch, turn the hopper, and press the adjustment notch simultaneously
Hi John, It takes a little finagling of fingers but It's possible to press the hopper lock and turn the hopper with the same hand. Or, invite a friend over for a coffee! Marc
I totally disagree with the the zero point aspect of this method. Reassembling with the burrs slightly backed off from touching left my Rocky grinding too coarse for espresso at it's 'new' finest setting. Tightening the brass carrier down until the burrs are snug and reassembling has my Rocky perfect espresso size grinds at position #7 from zero. Just as it came from Rancilio 3 years ago!
Then you hadn't backed off the contact slight enough. Setting the "0" as you have, will allow burrs to contact if one adjusts to 0. Bad idea if the grinder is running. -Just as some have criticized the vid's setup proceedure for allowing contact while running.
Hey @wholelattelove, a couple weeks ago you helped me with my Gaggia Classic that was gifted to me by a friend who neglected the machine for several years. This weekend's project was trying to get another gifted machine back in working condition, this time a Rancilio Rocky Doser ginder. He had taken it apart for cleaning at some point and never was able to get it back together. After looking into it I found the collar will start to go down the chamber, but about 1/2 the way down it gets terribly difficult to screw down. Threads seem to be lined up properly, I hear it and feel it drop into place. I noticed some weird markings and roughness on the threads that are, likely, my problem. Here's an imgur album with some close-up pictures for reference. imgur.com/a/a6ze4 Is this part a lost cause? Do you sell replacement chambers by any chance?
Gotcha--thanks for the next steps. I'll give cleaning things out a bit better this weekend and see if I can get something sorted out. Thanks also for confirming that you didn't stock the collar for Rocky grinders. I didn't see it when I looked and found it elsewhere, but you all were so awesome that I wanted to try and buy from you first if at all possible. Thanks again!
so wait - in a video about how to properly calibrate your grinder, the last step is to mark a new zero indicator with a marker on your machine? no thanks
@Whole Latte Love. If you have to take the factory fitted sticker off your grinder hopper, you've set if up incorrectly. It came with a true zero setting from Rancilio, so why would that change if you've replaced burrs and calibrated correctly. It wouldn't!! Anyone watching this, please don't peel the sticker off the hopper, as if Rancilio would expect you to do this!?!? Set the burrs touching re-assemble and back off from there. That is your 'true' zero as it was when you bought it new.
Hi I have a problem hope someone can help. I have been through every step however I can't remove the bottle burr. I can get the screws out but then it just seem stuck, literally it won't move! any ideas?
Hi SK, It's likely old coffee oils etc are acting as a glue and holding the bottom burr to the burr plate. You can help release it by using a screwdriver or similar as a lever to pry at the edge of the burr to break it free. If you do that be careful not to damage the fine threads which receive the top burr carrier assembly when levering against the stuck bottom burr. Could also try placing tip of screwdriver at the inner edge of bottom burr and tapping with hammer to break it free.
Thanks for speaking calmly and not asking me to like or subscribe.
Hey Craig, You're welcome! In newer videos I do invite viewers to subscribe but never ask for likes.
Marc
It's great that for this video the coffee being cleaned out is so powdery and fresh, not almost solidly caked on there, as mine is. Takes soaking in hot water and much work to clean off that residue in my experience.
Hey k, true. over time, oily coffees will cake up!
I've had my Rocky grinder for about 10 years, and about 5 years ago I had to start using a fork to push beans down to grind beans for my Rancilio Silvia. After watching this video (nicely done by the way) I decided to go for it and see if I could fix it...HOLY CRAP was it dirty and caked-on nastiness. The hardest part was to remove the adjustment collar, but a little leverage did the trick. I thoroughly cleaned everything and and calibrating it to the proper location was a piece o cake. Now it looks and grinds like new! Thank you for this GREAT video!
+Kevin Brown i have the same problem i cant remove the collar because of the dirt. what can i do? plz help..
+Kuduku on this video at 1:00, you can see three holes in the top of the collar (where the screws from the hopper attach). I was able to remove it by...
1) getting a small allen (hex) wrench and sticking it into one of the holes
2) Sticking a socket wrench (long shaft) onto the center shaft, but you could use a regular wrench too
3) carefully turn the collar by using opposing force on the allen wrench and socket wrench COUNTER CLOCKWISE so the collar breaks free.
If your grinder is really dirty, it will take some effort... but much easier than trying to turn it using only your hands.
+Kevin Brown i actually made it finally, thanks for the help
i actually used so much strength in kilos that i assume you that it was impossible to open with bare hands
i used a big plumber wrench tool and got the job done...
+Kevin Brown Creating leverage is a great idea. But keep in mind those threaded holes are brass, and the threads can easily be damaged by the sideways force on whatever you stick in the hole(s). If you have a longer screw/bolt that could be threaded deeply into the hole, it could be levered against with less risk to brass threads.
YES clean it every 10 years!!
Guy, you should save money and just get a MrCoffee.
Outside of the improvement, you won't know the difference
I disassembled my 12-year-old Pasquini Moca and couldn't figure out how to recalibrate it. I was about to give up when I stumbled upon this video. Spot on! WHL saves the day! P.S. if you find it difficult to reinsert the aluminum upper portion, put it in the freezer for a few minutes and it'll give less resistance.
+Jaime Phalen Glad we helped save the day! Thanks for the freezer tip - physics!
This video is concise and super useful. My problem was I couldn't turn the dial below setting 9. And I had to use the finest flat screwdriver to scrap off all the gunk from the screw thread entirely in the process. It's a delight to figure out how to find the 0 setting and readjust the stopper. Thanks again!
Hi James, You are welcome and thanks for the comment!
Thank you, this was very useful. Got a used Rocky and it wasn't fine enough even at zero. I realigned the burrs, and now have a better zero :)
Hi DT, Glad it helped and thanks a whole latte for the comment!
Thanks just bought a demo
Thank you! This worked perfectly. For anyone who cannot screw the brass part all the way in, try cleaning the threads of the stainless steel and brass parts with a firm bristle brush.
Hi JP, Thanks for your comment and sharing your tip! Threads need to be clean or it will be difficult if not nearly impossible to get the brass part screwed in.
This ! Had to scrub the stainless and brass threads and then use a wet washcloth to get the dried up coffee out of the threads ( I use it around 40-45 for pour overs mostly) When I go to adjust down to grind espresso (10ish) It sticks and is hard to turn. Turns out the threads were gummed up bad.
In replacing my burrs (and thoroughly cleanning all surfaces) I found my stop post to be at least an inch out of place, so I guess without the adjustable stop on the older rockies I am sol until I buy a new hopper. I have issues with spinning the motor electrically and hearing when the burrs touch. If ya can't findem just grindem! The top of the motor shaft is a 12mm so I just used a long socket and an extension to spin the the shaft with by hand so as to keep those burrs as close to factory fresh as possible. Since my stop is not configurable I decided to remove the sticker and zero it that way. Probably not something I would want to do every time but it works for me. This by the way is the best video on the subject I have watched so far. Thx!
Hi LC, Thanks for your comments and advice. Hopefully it can help others who may have the same situation.
two tips: i) removing the bottom grinder at 1:20 may be difficult if it's been a while -- use a toothpick to remove gummed coffee between the grinder and base. ii) after re-installing parts, lightly tap the (black) grinding button -- if you hear any metal-to-metal sounds, your burrs are touching and you should go back and leave more space between them (cf. 3:38). also make sure the screws on the bottom of the hopper that fix the stop are secure. thanks for the excellent video!
Hi QR, Thanks for adding those details!
Thank you. This saved me 2 weeks or more for waiting for repair. My grinder just stopped working, I called service from another company and they said I'd need to bring it in because I couldn't even hear the motor. I took everything apart and cleaned it and it's running like there was never an issue.
minerva You are welcome and happy to hear you’re grinding again. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Marc
It has been quite a while since I REALLY cleaned the entire machine. Thank you for the detailed instruction. My big mistake was in seeing the phillips head screws holding the exit chute to the front of the machine and assuming that the screws that hold the hopper and burrs were also phillips head. Bad assumption. Your vid cleared that up. Thanks.
Hi jp, Happy to help - thanks for the comment!
Clear and concise video! Have now put it apart and can inspect the burrs ... Need to reassemble and perhaps to change to burrs
Hi M, Thanks for the comment!
Great video. You mentioned important stuff other people would tend to leave out and just assume people know, like that the burrs are exactly the same and it doesn't matter which you put back in top or bottom. Thanks much. And thanks for selling my my Jura S9 Avant Garde years ago. Thanks to regular cleaning and descaling and using the optional filter, it's still going strong with very few issues along the way. This was also a refurbished S9 so I was wary about it, but everything was like new, even the drip tray was new and covered with a peel off plastic film I've recommended you again and again since my experience has been so stellar with this machine you sold me.
Hi UB, Thanks for the kind comment and happy to hear your refurbed S9 is still in the game. Take care of these machines and they will take care of your coffee for many years!
Maybe this gets lost in the comments but:
If it has been a while (or even a frew whiles) since the last cleaning/burr change, there is going to be sticky stuff (rancid oils from coffee and fines from grinding.) gumming up the works so you will make slower progress than shown here.
Gloves are a good idea, the oils are very sticky and you'll end up with a lot of hand washing otherwise. A lot. That and having the vacuum standign by will make it a neater job.
You might need to remove the bottom carrier to get it clean enough to properly seat the burrs. And hey, you are in there, might as well get it all clean and nice again. And the big threads (the ones that hold the top burr) will need lots of attention (female and male) with a brass brush or a series of toothpicks (your strokes aligned with those stainless (?) threads on the female side and something softer still on the brass male bits.) All to scoop out that sticky mess. This will give your adujstments the free travel up and down that you hoped for.
While you have it open, take off the blue plastic shoot in front and clean it and the path to it. Ahh, that's better.
Hi Paul, Thanks for adding - great advice!
Yes, exactly my experience as well. Well stated.
Thanks for this video. This helped me clean and get my grinder back to zero. Love your channel!
Hi Elliot, You are welcome! Thanks a whole latte for the comment.
Thanks, really excellent video covering everything I needed to know.
Hi r, You're welcome and thanks for the comment!
Thanks for this excellent video. Well made and easily understood. This is how I clean my grinder, no need to spend money on cleaning pellets.
Need to pull the lower burr holder to get it clean. Real PITA to clean. but easy to service.
NEED TO MAKE SURE BURRS ARE SQUARED do it by sound/feel , they should contact evenly at the bottom.
If made after a "Business lunch" at the factory, they are often not square.
it will work out of square, just not grind evenly.
Hey W, Thanks for the tips - business lunch lol!
how about how to remove the doser chamber to clean out grinds on the inside, which are inaccessible when you remove the hopper. I can't find any info on this anywhere!
Alway looks easier on video than it is in reality...
What i would like to know is whether it's possible to have dull burrs sharpened. Importing new Rocky burrs into Brazil is extremely expensive, increasing their European or U.S. original price by 466% - so a pair of burrs that cost $50 in Europe or the U.S. cost the equivalent of $233 here.
Hi b, Wow that's unfortunate! I have heard of burrs from very expensive grinders being reconditioned but it's a very specialized process. Less common today with the use of coatings on modern burrs. Think it would be difficult to find someone to sharpen.
I received a rocky purchased from you guys as a gift about 2 weeks ago. It’s not grinding fine enough, so I followed the instructions here to little avail. I noticed that when burrs touch they’re making very uneven contact so some alignment info would be helpful. I’m also puzzled as to why my ‘brand new’ rocky has the older non-adjustable stop screw??
Hi Zach, It's highly unusual for burrs to make uneven contact when touching. You might verify the burrs are properly mounted. Any coffee debris behind the burrs could through them off. Not sure why your grinder has the older stop screw. Is it possible the gift was a reconditioned Rocky? If you continue to have issues please contact our Tech Support here for assistance: www.wholelattelove.com/pages/contact-us
What if the grinders won't screw together near enough to make the grinders touch?
Hi Andrew, My guess is there some coffee debris in the fine threads of the adjustment preventing it from screwing in all the way. You may need to use something like a needle to manually clean the threads.
@@Wholelattelovepage that's what did it in the end. Working much better now with new blades. Thanks
@@71andrewmac That's great!
Hello I have a problem with the Ranchello coffee grinder which is the numbers fixed and difficult after the jaw with difficulty has become the disc and pull the disc clockwise stands in the middle and does not reach the required limit
Can you please do a video calibrating a Rancilio MD40?
There are basically no videos online about maintenance for this grinder
Hey GET, unfortunately I do not have access to an MD40 to make a video.
Amazing, easy to follow and mega helpful. I bought mine second hand and I wish the guy knew he had to clean it. It was disgusting! I have to buy spare grinder bolts though, it took some effort with the coffee jammed in underneath 😤
Hi kT, Thanks for the kind comment!
Marc
Is it normal after cleaning everything amd replacing the burr with new burrs that it takes longer for the grounds to come out? I only put in the amount of coffee i intennd to make each time i use it.
Hi Andrew, A couple of things might be increasing length of time. First, new burrs need to season meaning they are coated with oils from the beans. As the burrs are lubricated grinding speed in grams per second of output increases. Second, All grinders have some degree of internal retention. The nooks and crannies where ground coffee accumulates. This reduces output for a few grind cycles.
Great video, just what I needed to see. Thanks!
You're welcome!
What do you recommend when the screws holding the burrs on (top and bottom) will not budge?
Hey DZ, Be sure to use a screwdriver of appropriate size. One that fits as snugly as possible in the screw head. With that and enough force they should free up. Other tips: Try turning to tighten the screw before trying to loosen - seems counterintuitive but often helps. With screwdriver in screw head slot light taps with hammer can help. Apply some heat to the screw head. For that you can try heating the tip of the screwdriver then holding the tip in slot of screw head for 15-20 seconds to heat it up and then try removing. Can also use a propane torch very carefully to apply heat directly to the screw head for a few seconds and then try removing.
Hope that helps!
I had to pull apart my Rocky after a long time. The coffee goo is an excellent thread lock. Got everything off except one screw, which got mangled. I had to pull out the bottom brass element by removing the center bolt (12 mm socket, not pliers!), and eventually drilled out and removed the screw head. I ordered some new screws, but they are screwy. The slot is significantly wider than most American-sold screwdrivers, so unless you grind down the tip of a sacrificial screwdriver, you are going to have problems. If there is a next time, I will replace the screws with stainless torx heads. A slotted head has no business on those screws. I never found a good solvent for that coffee goo; heat probably would have worked, but that was my desperation stage. Pliers on a machined nut (as in your vid) are rarely a good idea, but the vid is great otherwise.@@Wholelattelovepage
Hello, I have a problem with the Ranchello mill. It has become fixed numbers and cannot be changed.
So clear and helpful. Thanks guys.
Glad it was helpful!
Marc
Hi, i just changed my burr, but i cant get the espresso grind size.. any tips?
just done it in less than half an hour great results
peter mcaleavey Glad to hear this helped you out!
I can't get my burrs to touch (as shown at the 3:00 mark). I've got the top screwed all the way back down, but my center shaft still turns because they're not touching - ??
So, after reading through all the comments below and seeing another that had my same issue...I did what he did and solved my problem by pulling out my reading glasses and a dental pick to ensure that every groove was clean. I *thought* I'd cleaned them well - I hadn't. After a really surgical cleaning what I thought couldn't possibly be my problem...it fixed my problem. It was interesting at how a single groove's worth of thick coffee kept my head from screwing all the way down. Lesson learned: clean, clean, and then clean again. :)
Hi BK, Thanks for the comment sharing your experience!
At 2:59 when both burrs are tight, i can still turn the center spindle.Do I need to change burrs?
Excellent video.
I can’t seem to get my burrs to touch when reassembling and I think that’s causing me get a coarse grind even when on or past 0
Would you guys please give instruction on determining whether the burrs in a Rocky are in need of replacement. I have a pretty old Rocky and would like to know if I should consider replacing the burrs. Of course I don't want to spend the money if not necessary. A video on the subject showing worn compared to new ones would be ideal. If this information is already available somewhere, I'd appreciate a point in the right direction. Many thanks!
Hi Lawson, Very difficult to determine if burrs need replacement by just looking at them. Our repair techs say they can feel them to get an idea but advise that's only after years of experience. Most grinder manufacturers we talk to like Ceado, Baratza, Etc. recommend burr replacement after grinding about 1000lb/450kg of coffee. If amount ground is unknown, our techs recommend replacement every 2 years for average daily home use and annually for heavy home or light commercial use. If you feel you need to replace they are available here: www.wholelattelove.com/products/burrs-d50
Thank you for your demostration , I have just done as you show you have saved me my machine, the one previewsely was not as detailed as you, my machine would have now been unusable, if i followed the the one before!
Hi ET, You are welcome for the demonstration! Happy to help, glad you found our video!
thanks - super helpful! Though I could not totally close my burrs - that seems to be the factory design. As it gets close the collar thread tightens and wont go further. Any thoughts? All the best
Hi o, You are welcome and thanks for the comment!
Just changed burrs after 10 yrs. We've never had fine enough grind and the band reads negative 12. Followed your video, but the part where it says to replace the upper burr assembly and turn until rotor cannot spin? I reach a point where I can no longer turn the assembly but the rotor still spins freely. I put it all back together, grind is still too coarse and the only adjustment direction to go is coarser. Any ideas on how to get the burrs closer?
Check to see that they are SQUARE. if not they bind at "A" and are gapped at"B"
2:23 somewhere there are mechanics and engineers that won't be able to sleep after seeing those pliers
1:00 I can’t remove this part counter clockwise, I tried so much hard but it’s fixed what I can do?
Hi x, Threads must be really gummed up. Was it sitting unused or grind size never adjusted for long period? Anyway, you'll just need to try harder. You could try putting the screws back in without the hopper on to give you more leverage.
Marc
Hi x3li18
have the same problem, did you manage to solve it? any tools that can help here? I've tried with the hopper but still nothing
Put back the three screws without the hopper. Pull one screw with your fingers and push the screw on the right with a plier.
Would you use the Rancilio coffee grinder to grind black pepper?
Hi Igor, Not something I've tried. Personally I wouldn't as my next espresso might be a little weird!
I followed your instructions to a T but my zero went 0 to 21. Where I used to grind at 5, I know have to grind at 29. It is a bit odd but the espresso comes out fine.
Hi Max, Could it be you placed the hopper on in a different position? You may be able to remove the hopper and re-position it so the numbers line up better.
Whole Latte Love If I put the hopper back so that the screw is at the internal stop position, then my zero stop is more like 8 or 9 when I need a 5. I am going to fix the problem with a new hopper and the adjustable stop
Max Power
8 or 9 seems reasonable. The numbers on the hopper are arbitrary to some extent and dependent on burr wear and other variables. I've never calibrated a Rocky and had it end up exactly where it was prior to calibration.
How often should the burrs be replaced?
Um, like the vid says
I followed the directions with new burrs and I still need to be on grind setting 1 or 2.
Hey C, if 1-2 works you're good to go.
The 3rd time I have cheaned my rancilio grinder, all went well. sadly this time , one screw from the lower brrr refuses to come off I have tried in many ways just did the best I could, but it is not the same, any suggestion?
Hi ET, Typical methods for loosening stubborn fasteners is shock, heat and penetrating oils. For shock try turning to tighten (counter-intuitive I know) then go the other way. For heat, careful use of a propane torch to warm up the screw.
Marc
Thank you Marc for your reply and will try it'cheers@@Wholelattelovepage
Plus the penetrating oil gives a nice flavor to the crema
I've found that there is a bit of slop in the threads. If I calibrate as directed it doesn't grind fine enough for espresso. If I pull up while screwing down it calibrates ok. Not a problem when grinding for drip but burrs touch after grinding for espresso. Do you think this is something that can be fixed?
Hi t, Thanks for the question. Seems odd that you cannot grind fine enough for espresso after calibrating as directed. I'm a little confused and/or not understanding as you go on to say the burrs touch after grinding for espresso. My gut says it's not slop in the threads. They are very fine and if there were slop it's unlikely you'd be able to get the top burr carrier turned in. If you are in the US, you can contact our Tech Support staff here for further assistance if needed: www.wholelattelove.com/contact-us
My Rocky also has a problem with sloppy threads, and I think it's been like that since I got it ten years ago. I just found out about the "rocky teflon tape fix" -- go ahead and google it -- and it seems to make a whole lot of difference to how fine it can go without the burrs touching.
I got one of these for free from a co-worker. The coffee powder and oil formed a tar on the adjustments threads that I couldn't remove. Everything inside had the same tar-like coating. I thought I finally got it clean but couldn't get the adjustment collar to screw all the way down because of the threads being bound by the sticky stuff. Sadly it ended up in the trash. I wouldn't want to clean one of these on a regular basis and would never recommend it..... especially for a beginner.
Hey Brian, thanks for sharing your thoughts. Yes, those threads are a PITA to clean if gummed up with ancient coffee dust and oils!
The calibration on my Rocky for some reason stopped going below 10, making my grounds far too coarse for espresso. This video was just what I was looking for as I figured I waited too long to give Rocky a good cleaning. Unfortunately it didn't help. Problem is the top burr does not screw down to a "zero point" where the two burrs touch. I can't for the life of me see anything that would be stopping it from screwing down. I cleaned it completely.
Alan Brunettin Hi Alan, just to confirm, after cleaning you can not screw the top burr down to the extent that it makes contact with the lower burr? If that's the case, we suggest re-cleaning the threads on the adjustment collar and in the grinding chamber and trying again. Coffee residue in the threads is the first suspect causing inability to reach zero point. It could be caused by thread damage/cross-threading as well. However, if you can turn the adjustment collar in at least a few full turns that's probably not the problem.
Whole Latte Love That indeed was the issue. I couldn't believe it. I was sure I had cleaned the threads sufficiently; certainly it LOOKED fairly clean. But I went back with a much stiffer brush and even went at the single thread or two that refused to give up the ghost with my fingernail. I just couldn't believe that little amount of gunk would stop the burr from screwing down; a testament to how little tolerance is allowed in the machining of the brass. Also a lesson in staying away from the really greasy beans. Here I thought I preferred them. No more! Thanks! Oh also, I repositioned the adjustable stop-point and now "9" is actually "0" on the hopper's gauge. That's dumb. Why don't they make the index movable too? Oh well...
Alan Brunettin Glad to hear you solved the problem! You are right threads can be very tight in adjustment collars and it takes surprisingly little to make them very difficult to turn.
Whole Latte Love Indeed. However...and let me say here, I understand this isn't a tech support line (I did buy my Rocky--and Silvia--from you at least) but I am flummoxed here. I just drew a double with my newly ground beans and I had to stop the flow because I got about a half-cup of coffee in just about 10 secs! And this was at a 5 setting. I went back into it to make sure I had zeroed it out. This time I really screwed it down stopping the bottom burr and backed-off only slightly; even doing the sound test of the burrs rubbing to make sure I was at absolute zero. Now it registers at "5" on the hopper's index. I drew another double and tho I was able to run it for the minimum 20 secs I still got a lot more than a double shot. And the resulting cappuccio was rather thin and drab. How can this be? I was just a hair off the burrs rubbing and still the grounds were too coarse?.
Alan Brunettin Hmmm, how do the grinds look? Any chance the burrs are due for replacement?
Great video..
Glad you enjoyed it
I am having a lot of challenge re-assembling machine: threads of the adjustment collar are well-aligned, but it doesn't want to hand tighten AT ALL, and binds up early. Hard to see what if anything is causing the problem.
Hi Gregg, Likely some coffee residue still in the threads making it difficult. Try cleaning the threads more thoroughly. But do be sure the thread are lined up properly and don't force things. We recommend turning backwards (counterclockwise) first until you hear or feel the threads drop into position before turning clockwise to engage the threads and continue screwing on.
It doesn't take much residue at all to prevent re-threading. Eventually I decided on a more drastic solution: using the bean bowl for more leverage. 1. I removed the stop screw. 2. reattached the bean bowl using the (3) screws). 3. Screwed it back on until the burrs touched, then backed of 30 degrees or so. 4. Unscrewed the (3) screws, 5. Re-inserted the 'stop screw'. All in all, cleaning out all the coffee oil and broken beans from between the burrs made the machine much more capable of fine grinds, and my pulls are much better! This video was amazing.
Hi Gregg, Happy to hear you got it back together and thanks for the kind comment and sharing your experience. For others reading this - be careful and don't force things cross-threading makes for a very unhappy day!
Hello ,
I have a Rancilio Rocky and I just cleaned it. I made it nice as new, the problem is when I screwed it back and re-calibrated it, It was completely blocked at the 0 setting. It's like someone put super glue on the thread, it can't be moved at all!
I'm completely desperate, I hope you can give me some resolution tips!
Thanks
oy
Very useful video. Thanks!
Hi MM, You are welcome!
Thanks!!
I have a Rancilio Rocky and i can't remove it counterclock, it seems it has so much dirt that it stuck
what can i do? plz help
+Kuduku They can be very difficult to remove if they have not been cleaned on a regular basis. Outside chance it may be cross threaded - hopefully that's not the case. You might try using physics to assist in your effort. Run the grinder for 60 seconds or so to warm things up then apply an ice pack to the interior area of the upper burr carrier for a minute or two. This should cause the metal to contract ever so slightly. Hopefully enough to allow you to remove. If that doesn't work try a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the entire outer area burr carrier. This may help make the coffee gunk a little looser allowing you to remove. Be careful not to get too hot and burn yourself or damage anything. Let us know how you make out.
+Whole Latte Love i actually made it finally, thanks for the help
i actually used so much strength in kilos that i assume you that it was impossible to open with bare hands
i used a big plumber wrench tool and got the job done...
From now on i'll clean it every 6 months considering that i'm using it every day
Kuduku
Happy to hear you were able to solve the problem!
Mine is a month old and I've mostly managed to widen the hole in the screws. Not the greatest screws Rancilio uses. Also I need a ticker flat head screwdriver
@@mathieuclement8011 Screw heads have sizes. Use the right one and life is as it should be.
Any gunsmith or mechanic will give you a sad look if you knacker them up.
Some folks shouldn't be around anything sharp.
I am dreading doing this, but my Rocky is almost 10 years old. I probably should replace the burrs.
Hi Richard, That really depends on how much coffee you've ground in those ten years. Should be good for >400lb/200kg. Honestly if considering new burrs I'd think about a new grinder. They've come a long way! Always found the grind at espresso sizes a bit clumpy from the Rocky. Also limited in precision with its stepped grind size adjustment.
Marc
@@Wholelattelovepage I suppose it might be time. I used to think of the Rocky as the sweet spot price/performance for an espresso grinder. What is the new sweet spot? The Ode?
@@icowrich For price/performance in a no frills manual on demand machine grade grinder the Eurkeka Mignon Facile is har to beat. Read the user reviews here: www.wholelattelove.com/collections/espresso-grinders/products/eureka-mignon-facile-espresso-grinder
Marc
@@Wholelattelovepage I also like the idea of a machine that I can eventually upgrade with SSP burrs. The Mazzer mini seems with 58mm burrs look good for that, but I don't want a doser.
@@icowrich Ya, dosing grinders are so 10 years ago! I'm not a fan of Mazzer grinders - they had plenty of fans back in the day and probably still do - driven by nostalgia. My issue is the top burr rests on 3 springs and there is little to no protection of the grind collar adjustment threads from coffee grounds and oils. Those three springs may allow the top burr to wobble up/down potentially decreasing grind particle size consistency. I have no proof of that but seems possible. Beyond that, it's a very difficult grinder to clean! The adjustment threads get gummed up eventually making size adjustment stiff and jumpy. And the holes where the springs sit fill with coffee gunk. If your willing to go to the Mazzer price range I'd take a close look at the Ceado E series grinders. The E5P is manual on demand and the E6P is same burr set with 2 timed presets or on demand grinding. Much better grind size adjustment mechanism than the Mazzers and adjustment threads are well protected. They feature 64mm burrs, are not dosers and produce a nice fluffy and well distributed grind into portafilter. And they can be upgraded with SSP Red Speed burrs: www.wholelattelove.com/products/ssp-red-speed-coated-64mm-grinding-burrs
Here a video comparing the current lineup of Ceado's E series grinders: th-cam.com/video/4EL5J4bTXt0/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps!
Marc
Danm'. I remove the two bottom screw and maybe it's too greased up , but I can't remove it .
I just took out the stopper screw on my old one. No idea why it's there but it works better without it.
so incredibly informative. many thanks.
Hey hoss, You are welcome and thanks a whole latte for the comment!
Excellent! Thank you
You are welcome!
@whole latte love.Sorry to confuse. I wasn't implying you show that In your video. Lost Comma posted that he himself had removed and refit sticker and you thanked him for his advice and comments.
Can you comment on any other aspect of my posts as keen to hear your opinion?
Great video-thank you very much!
jules schrodes you are welcome and thank you for the comment! It’s an oldie but goodie.
If the steel wears out wouldnt you have to worry about metal particles in your coffee??
How do you know your filtering out all of the steel?
Anyone used to sharpening fine knives knows what im talking abt
Hi AV, Thinking steel is a lot harder than coffee.
@Whole Latte Love
Yes but if they claim they wear out and need replacing. Seems steel to steel is the issue not coffee to steel.
What's wearing out is my question really
You know
Great video. You are the man !
Hi Joe, Thanks for the comment!
Superior video to the Seattle coffee video on the subject. You dont mention grinder pellets for cleaning ? Wonder what you think.
Hi Frank, Thanks for the comment. We do our best to make superior content. I have used Urnex Grindz: www.wholelattelove.com/products/urnex-grindz-grinder-cleaner-15-2oz-bottle It gets the job done but is fairly expensive. It makes sense for those who want to clean the grinder without taking it apart. This video is rather old I don't think Grindz existed when video was made.
Marc
I regard the granules as maintenance and a light cleaning. Dont think it as a relief to the nessacery deep clean. Thanks
They help the crema to float
And using rice gives both a great body and you can recycle it for congee
It would be lovely to know what "older models mean". I certainly can't, owning only two hands, press the on switch, turn the hopper, and press the adjustment notch simultaneously
Hi John, It takes a little finagling of fingers but It's possible to press the hopper lock and turn the hopper with the same hand. Or, invite a friend over for a coffee!
Marc
I totally disagree with the the zero point aspect of this method. Reassembling with the burrs slightly backed off from touching left my Rocky grinding too coarse for espresso at it's 'new' finest setting. Tightening the brass carrier down until the burrs are snug and reassembling has my Rocky perfect espresso size grinds at position #7 from zero. Just as it came from Rancilio 3 years ago!
Then you hadn't backed off the contact slight enough. Setting the "0" as you have, will allow burrs to contact if one adjusts to 0. Bad idea if the grinder is running. -Just as some have criticized the vid's setup proceedure for allowing contact while running.
No that's what to do if the burrs aren't square
"Just like it came from Rancillio."
Made after "lunch"
nice
Hey @wholelattelove, a couple weeks ago you helped me with my Gaggia Classic that was gifted to me by a friend who neglected the machine for several years. This weekend's project was trying to get another gifted machine back in working condition, this time a Rancilio Rocky Doser ginder. He had taken it apart for cleaning at some point and never was able to get it back together. After looking into it I found the collar will start to go down the chamber, but about 1/2 the way down it gets terribly difficult to screw down. Threads seem to be lined up properly, I hear it and feel it drop into place. I noticed some weird markings and roughness on the threads that are, likely, my problem. Here's an imgur album with some close-up pictures for reference. imgur.com/a/a6ze4 Is this part a lost cause? Do you sell replacement chambers by any chance?
Gotcha--thanks for the next steps. I'll give cleaning things out a bit better this weekend and see if I can get something sorted out. Thanks also for confirming that you didn't stock the collar for Rocky grinders. I didn't see it when I looked and found it elsewhere, but you all were so awesome that I wanted to try and buy from you first if at all possible. Thanks again!
so wait - in a video about how to properly calibrate your grinder, the last step is to mark a new zero indicator with a marker on your machine? no thanks
Hi Mark, Thanks for the comment. there are some grinders which have adjustable scales so you can put zero at minimum grind setting.
Marc
@Whole Latte Love. If you have to take the factory fitted sticker off your grinder hopper, you've set if up incorrectly. It came with a true zero setting from Rancilio, so why would that change if you've replaced burrs and calibrated correctly. It wouldn't!!
Anyone watching this, please don't peel the sticker off the hopper, as if Rancilio would expect you to do this!?!?
Set the burrs touching re-assemble and back off from there. That is your 'true' zero as it was when you bought it new.
Hi Neil, Thanks for your comment. Not sure what your referring to on taking off the sticker. We don't ever take the sticker off in the video.
@@Wholelattelovepage It's that nice plastic Rancillio wraps things in
I thought I knew how to calibrate my grinder. Then I found this video. 😅
Hi MC, Glad you found the video! Thanks for the comment.
Hi I have a problem hope someone can help. I have been through every step however I can't remove the bottle burr. I can get the screws out but then it just seem stuck, literally it won't move! any ideas?
Hi SK, It's likely old coffee oils etc are acting as a glue and holding the bottom burr to the burr plate. You can help release it by using a screwdriver or similar as a lever to pry at the edge of the burr to break it free. If you do that be careful not to damage the fine threads which receive the top burr carrier assembly when levering against the stuck bottom burr. Could also try placing tip of screwdriver at the inner edge of bottom burr and tapping with hammer to break it free.