NOTE: !!!! Readme The GASKET/DIAPHRAGM ORDER IS CORRECT! The video isn't wrong. I have tested it both ways, It WONT RUN any other way! This is because it is a Primer Bulb / Fuel Pump Combination. The body of the primer bulb has ports on it that require a gasket to seal it, the diaphragm isn't thick enough to seal it and the tang (bump) that pushes on the needle fulcrum wont reach. The diaphragm must seat to the machined surface as its very thin. The little bump on it can now actuate the fulcrum. What others have commented on is correct for carburetor setups that use the steel plate to hold the diaphragm on, this is not the case / application here.
Have a 30 plus year old machine that was given to me.Bought a new carb and pipes and runs great.I grease the worm gear with blue marine grease.Servicing is the key to keep these machines running.
Awesome, yes many people like marine grease! I've been turning to Gear Oil now, grease will pack in but it will be pushed out of the way over a short time. Grease is more for bearings and gear oil is more for,,,well,,,,,,gears so I'm changing. Also we can empty out old gear lube easy, not so with closed systems with grease! Either way, your absolutely right,,,, maintenance is generally all that's needed! I just ran mine in a garden area that has NOT neem tilled in years! Worked fine! Thanks for watching Marc
I used mine recently, worked well and I put it to task! Glad I changed over to oil. I've been changing to oil on snowblower gear boxes now as well! Mostly the older ones where the grease is old and dry and taking them apart is cost prohibitive!
@@marclaw4511 On this machine I put grease as I show, they want it almost up to the gasket level,,see the video, if old grease is beat you can use gear oil and same level on Snowblower, just until the oil comes out of the hole with the pipe thread cap if mounted in the front, if its a fill hole on the top, I guess. When gaskets break I use RTV with a thin bead spread with my finger and allowed to set up for 20 minutes so it skins
This is a great vid, searched it out as I was looking for Carb Rebuilding.....have changed my way of gardening and this unit is going to the curb.....sorry you do not live here or I would donate it. Appreciated you going over of the Manits.
Ohhhhh Noooooo lol,,,,Not the Curb!! lol I changed a bit as well. Instead of disturbing the entire ground, I just loosen the area to plant with this machine. Or in the flower/bush beds I can just scratch up the ground. Thanks for commenting and watching!
I have a 1st generation Mantis that my Dad purchased in the mid to late 1980s and it still runs well. The gears aren't accessible, there is a grease fitting on the operators side I add to every year. Yes the tines are reversable for either tilling (digging) or cultivating (weeding). There is an accessory wheel to replace one tine to use it as a edging tiller as well.
I just picked one up for 50 bucks off of Craigslist and it's in great shape and I'm guessing it's an earlier model like yours bc I only have a grease fitting as well. Mine is set up as an edger with the one flat tine and the wheel so I will have to pick up the tilling tines off the internet once I get it running. I was going to rebuild the carb and put new fuel lines on it but I took a screenshot of another video and used Google lens to find the exact kit and it comes with a carb, gaskets, a plug, fuel tank grommet with all 3 lines already attached, everything you would need for around 17 bucks. $67 for a nice working Mantis? I'll take it
Try this,,,,I like to turn the throttle screw in all the way then adjust the Hi speed jet, then I slowly back out that screw until it begins to stall then adjust the low speed. Often I adjust the low speed while running at full throttle for a preliminary adjustment. Here's a video I did recently where I show adjustments on this blower! Check toward the end of the video! Thanks for watching! th-cam.com/video/alV74DqjimM/w-d-xo.html
I replaced the carb on my Mantis, fuel tank and all fuel lines. It starts with one pull if I remember to turn the ignition switch on. It runs great. I run it with Stihl Moto Mix 50:1.
My mantis is an Echo version. It’s a shame all these small companies are getting gobbled up by the conglomerates. Quality always seems to go down. Look at Poulan and what Husqvarna turned it into - junk. Mr. Poulan would be rolling over in his grave.
@@TheNovaJohn they are good but not a real tiller like the 916 Husqvarna that I had but they will do things the Husky never could, like not wear me out and get in tight places.
@@TheNovaJohn I did one of those about ten years ago. The motor was shot and I traded it off. I have a little Mantis that I am working on, now. It is not that old but some idiot had left it out in the weather. It is a 7225-02-02 made in ‘06 from what I can tell. I was going to give it to my youngest daughter but think I will buy her a new one, instead.- a 7924 with the easy start system on it. I rebuilt a Try Built a year or so ago and it is a junky design. It runs well but it has some design problems that I do not like - the transmission and tines. I rebuilt the carb system a year or so ago, so it runs well. I just think a four cycle engine should have more oil in it than 90 ml. I will deal with two cycle any day of the week.
40:30 Grabs roots...absolutely! Rip and cut?...only in theory for sales, ok, maybe a few of the dead ones. Its more like winding roots around the tines until bearings are strangled or transmission gives up or both. These smaller ones are best in clean dirt. Missing screen is odd. How would you get the rust off the tines? I thought of copper plating the tines, better for the soil than rubbing rust and steel off into the dirt.
I had a monster machine for years,,,sorry I sold it. I do have a frame of a real tiller and it needs an engine that I should have. Its a great little machine for light furrow work... Shove the tines in Muriatic acid or a mild solution of a rust remover. Also cleaning vinegar works well or even battery acid if ya have an old car battery around You can Zinc plate them
Iron in your soil is good for plants and the amount you would be adding would be negligible. Try a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder for the rust, and while you have the grinder out, take an 80 grit flap wheel and sharpen the tines to get through roots easier
I uses several, too many to list here . I do feature many products in my videos, go check them out For now check out this video short! th-cam.com/users/shortsBtQzSGhxelA
There is a clutch, just like a string trimmer it is between the engine and shaft. On string trimmers they engage at about 4,000rpm and idle is about 3,000rpm. That is why the tines do not turn at idle. I'm wondering how fast your drill that you tested it with turns?
@WisconsinEric I wrote in text that scrolled on the screen!, No Manual Clutch. Sometimes I misspeak, I got it running years ago, a neighbor wanted to see if I could fix it. I got the engine running and the tranny squeed,, loud squeal and no blades turned. I may have mentioned this but often things get cut out due to time constraints.. Its dead and we can see that in the gears.
Hi,I have a question. I have a 13 year old Mantis 6220 tiller that I picked up used a few months ago. I have replaced the carb and fuel tank plus all hoses. It runs fine when it is cold but after a few minutes tilling it looses power to the tines. Could it be a dirty and slipping clutch and clutch drum? Clean them? What do you think?
When you say looses power,,,,,lets define. So you know your machines and you can tell that the tines just aren't working as hard, think back or maybe next time, listen to the engine speed and sound. If you speed/sound changes in concurrence with the tines, then it may be the engine. Another example may be, the tines loose power, the engine either doesn't change speed / RPM or actually increases in RPM because the clutch is slipping. Considering you have serviced other components and have used it for a long time, its most likely the clutches!
@@TheNovaJohn let say,I am tilling in the garden and I have to lift it out of the trench that I am tilling. After I get it out of the trench it will then scoot across the ground. It may have a few roots on the tines, but not enough to stop the tines. I have weed reducers on the tines. It acts like to me the clutch is slipping in the clutch drum. My garden is about 30’ long and it digs normally for the first 15’. Well, you know as much as me, now.
The Mantis folks say to fill the crankcase up to the level of the flange with lithium grease. I would probably use my tube of white lithium grease to grease the crankcase.
I've noticed over the years that grease and especially these dry greases get thrown off the gears and stick to everything but where its needed. I've seen snowblower transmissions fail this way with lithium in it.. I have to wonder; the same companies that make this stuff to fail will tell us how to take care of it! lol
Good to hear!! OK HIPA ya hear that?? lol They will be happy...I use their products and yes they have had issues but they listen and work on it..!! Good stuff...but I always try to fix and keep the original as a rule 1st!!
@@TheNovaJohn I rebuilt the original but it did not run right. I replaced it with a C1U K54 instead of the K82. They are identical except where the overflow line connects.
so how long did it take you to figure out you put the primer backwards. I kept waiting for you to say opps but your video just stopped and turned it around :)
Thanks for reminding me!!! I pinned another comment, or I thought I did,,Gonna just put up a notice now in the description in caps!!! What a day, so many distractions in the shop. Thanks!!
NOTE: !!!! Readme The GASKET/DIAPHRAGM ORDER IS CORRECT! The video isn't wrong. I have tested it both ways, It WONT RUN any other way! This is because it is a Primer Bulb / Fuel Pump Combination. The body of the primer bulb has ports on it that require a gasket to seal it, the diaphragm isn't thick enough to seal it and the tang (bump) that pushes on the needle fulcrum wont reach. The diaphragm must seat to the machined surface as its very thin. The little bump on it can now actuate the fulcrum. What others have commented on is correct for carburetor setups that use the steel plate to hold the diaphragm on, this is not the case / application here.
Correct me if I'm wrong but that "bad" transmission would need 3100RPM+ to engage vs the 1800RPM the drill is giving. Or is the shaft direct drive on top?
Without watching the video again as this is an older video; I had the one with the bad tranny running at one point. It squeeled, squeed and never moved the gears below. I showed the gears as well. Generally the clutches on these small machines will begin to turn at low RPM's but they don't lock up as they would during use. These techniques with drills are useful to help with diagnoses and repair.
$10 maybe a few years ago lol I have a few videos on aftermarket carb issues and defects! I work with HIPA and although they are very good, I have had issue here as well! If a machine isn't running at all, I tend to rebuild the original carb if its in good shape. If its a mess then I have no choice. 2 Strokers often don't run. People ruin them. Why spend $20 or more on a machine that isn't worth it or just never gonna run again?
@@TheNovaJohnbecause that $20 in parts will save you $80 in labor if you were to value your time at $25/hr. For the 20 bucks you have a pretty solid chance of cleaning everything up and bolting it on and having it fire right up. Plus the kit comes with the grommet and fuel lines that go into the tank, along with the fuel filter, spark plug, and a bunch of other stuff. You can't justify fooling around with the old stuff with no guarantee that it'll work when you can get everything I said in a couple days, unless you're bored or impatient and want to get it running right then
Oh if life was sooo simple like that lol I work with HIPA replacement parts, probably the better company out there. I can tell you, even their stuff often has issues! Generally I like to use original stuff rather then police some aftermarket crap! Its good to show people on youtube other possibilities. Your commenting on one video and one situation. What will you say on all the videos I do where I replace a carb and it doesn't work out? How much time and money is saved then?
If you do not replace that missing carburetor screen, you are guaranteeing starting and running problems in the not-too-distant future. The good news is you are in first place in the longest screwdriver contest.
That's right! These days I replace the carb,,,I always try to get things going with whatever is on the machine 1st.. My bet is someone worked on it already. BTW I do have even longer screwdrivers!! lol
There has to be a clutch on it, otherwise the tines would turn at idle. That squealing sounds like a clutch to me. A drill will not turn a shaft fast enough to engage a clutch. Remember it is idling at about 2,800 RPMs at idle and that is not enough to engage the clutch.
First off it's hard for me to believe that you're from Alabama. The second thing is after watching a of these I can never understand the three fuel lines and where they go and nobody explains it. You can buy a carburetor for nothing but you still got the problem of where the fuel lines go.
Hahahahaha Its just my sweat shirt,,,my ex bro in law was there doing some work. Try this video... I explain the different fuel lines, sizes and what and why they are used Watch the whole thing because as I work I answer all of it th-cam.com/video/v2AJR5mjIKw/w-d-xo.html
Most people will just order the carb kit with lines and will replace the the gromet, because you didnt you are not helping a lot of us because it is difficult to replace. Also Im guessing you wont show how to adjust the carb properly which most people would appreciate.
Most people will be like my contractor that just bought a new carb that didn't work then needed my help to figure it out and grab a used carb off a donor machine to get another trimmer working. Most people will have this issue with aftermarket carbs but you wont hear of it because they have no public voice! The you said, "Also Im guessing you wont show how to adjust the carb properly which most people would appreciate." So by this statement, you didn't even bother to watch the video or at least all of it! The video is already too long! By MOST peoples standards! I do have other videos that cover these topics. Those subjects are NOT the purpose of this video, if I tried to put all of this into this video, NO one would ever watch it!
Diaphragm carbs are always gasket on carb and metering diaphragm on top.
Thanks Nick,,,true dat,,I got distracted so many times that day,,not to mention old age & diabetes, sometimes I speak backwards....
NOTE: !!!! Readme
The GASKET/DIAPHRAGM ORDER IS CORRECT!
The video isn't wrong. I have tested it both ways, It WONT RUN any other way!
This is because it is a Primer Bulb / Fuel Pump Combination. The body of the primer bulb has ports on it that require a gasket to seal it, the diaphragm isn't thick enough to seal it and the tang (bump) that pushes on the needle fulcrum wont reach.
The diaphragm must seat to the machined surface as its very thin. The little bump on it can now actuate the fulcrum.
What others have commented on is correct for carburetor setups that use the steel plate to hold the diaphragm on, this is not the case / application here.
I've never heard of chain wax. Man, I learn stuff every day 👍
Geat stuff! Thanks for watching!
Have a 30 plus year old machine that was given to me.Bought a new carb and pipes and runs great.I grease the worm gear with blue marine grease.Servicing is the key to keep these machines running.
Awesome, yes many people like marine grease!
I've been turning to Gear Oil now, grease will pack in but it will be pushed out of the way over a short time. Grease is more for bearings and gear oil is more for,,,well,,,,,,gears so I'm changing. Also we can empty out old gear lube easy, not so with closed systems with grease!
Either way, your absolutely right,,,, maintenance is generally all that's needed!
I just ran mine in a garden area that has NOT neem tilled in years! Worked fine!
Thanks for watching Marc
@@TheNovaJohn You are right,its the same as a car gear box.Need a good gask
et to keep oil in.
I used mine recently, worked well and I put it to task! Glad I changed over to oil. I've been changing to oil on snowblower gear boxes now as well! Mostly the older ones where the grease is old and dry and taking them apart is cost prohibitive!
@@TheNovaJohn Do you have to have a special gasket and how much oil do you put in.
@@marclaw4511 On this machine I put grease as I show, they want it almost up to the gasket level,,see the video, if old grease is beat you can use gear oil and same level
on Snowblower, just until the oil comes out of the hole with the pipe thread cap if mounted in the front, if its a fill hole on the top, I guess.
When gaskets break I use RTV with a thin bead spread with my finger and allowed to set up for 20 minutes so it skins
This is a great vid, searched it out as I was looking for Carb Rebuilding.....have changed my way of gardening and this unit is going to the curb.....sorry you do not live here or I would donate it. Appreciated you going over of the Manits.
Ohhhhh Noooooo lol,,,,Not the Curb!! lol
I changed a bit as well.
Instead of disturbing the entire ground, I just loosen the area to plant with this machine.
Or in the flower/bush beds I can just scratch up the ground.
Thanks for commenting and watching!
I have a 1st generation Mantis that my Dad purchased in the mid to late 1980s and it still runs well. The gears aren't accessible, there is a grease fitting on the operators side I add to every year. Yes the tines are reversable for either tilling (digging) or cultivating (weeding). There is an accessory wheel to replace one tine to use it as a edging tiller as well.
Nice little machine as long as its cared for and,,,,we dont keep getting it tangled in brush and vines
@@TheNovaJohn Yes the tangling can be a hassle, learning to lean back with it and controlling the bounce helps prevent the tines from bending.
@@reaganl.5113 LOL,, this thing can really bounce!! Ya can launch this thing like a basketball
I just picked one up for 50 bucks off of Craigslist and it's in great shape and I'm guessing it's an earlier model like yours bc I only have a grease fitting as well. Mine is set up as an edger with the one flat tine and the wheel so I will have to pick up the tilling tines off the internet once I get it running. I was going to rebuild the carb and put new fuel lines on it but I took a screenshot of another video and used Google lens to find the exact kit and it comes with a carb, gaskets, a plug, fuel tank grommet with all 3 lines already attached, everything you would need for around 17 bucks. $67 for a nice working Mantis? I'll take it
I use dielectric grease on all rubber components and electrical connections. Not a lot but it does make boots easier to get off spark plugs.
I have a tube of that too.
I use my transmission fluid mix for so many things these days because its a universal compound.
I put a new carb on mine and can’t get the jets adjusted correctly. Any thoughts?
Try this,,,,I like to turn the throttle screw in all the way then adjust the Hi speed jet, then I slowly back out that screw until it begins to stall then adjust the low speed.
Often I adjust the low speed while running at full throttle for a preliminary adjustment.
Here's a video I did recently where I show adjustments on this blower! Check toward the end of the video!
Thanks for watching!
th-cam.com/video/alV74DqjimM/w-d-xo.html
I replaced the carb on my Mantis, fuel tank and all fuel lines. It starts with one pull if I remember to turn the ignition switch on. It runs great. I run it with Stihl Moto Mix 50:1.
Sounds great, never got the notification that you posted!
I have 2 of these, and both run great, bought one new, and got the older one in a trade deal
Great!! And its almost time to use them!!!
Nice vid. On my second mantis- this one the echo version and learned a few things. First one lasted at least 15 years
Nice,,what happened to the old one?
These are nice machine if we don't ask to much of them..
My mantis is an Echo version. It’s a shame all these small companies are getting gobbled up by the conglomerates. Quality always seems to go down. Look at Poulan and what Husqvarna turned it into - junk. Mr. Poulan would be rolling over in his grave.
@@TheNovaJohn they are good but not a real tiller like the 916 Husqvarna that I had but they will do things the Husky never could, like not wear me out and get in tight places.
I'm just finishing up a refurbish on a dead and broken MasterCraft Tiller with a Briggs 5hp OHV engine!!
Stay Tuned!
@@TheNovaJohn I did one of those about ten years ago. The motor was shot and I traded it off. I have a little Mantis that I am working on, now. It is not that old but some idiot had left it out in the weather. It is a 7225-02-02 made in ‘06 from what I can tell. I was going to give it to my youngest daughter but think I will buy her a new one, instead.- a 7924 with the easy start system on it. I rebuilt a Try Built a year or so ago and it is a junky design. It runs well but it has some design problems that I do not like - the transmission and tines. I rebuilt the carb system a year or so ago, so it runs well. I just think a four cycle engine should have more oil in it than 90 ml. I will deal with two cycle any day of the week.
40:30 Grabs roots...absolutely! Rip and cut?...only in theory for sales, ok, maybe a few of the dead ones. Its more like winding roots around the tines until bearings are strangled or transmission gives up or both. These smaller ones are best in clean dirt.
Missing screen is odd. How would you get the rust off the tines? I thought of copper plating the tines, better for the soil than rubbing rust and steel off into the dirt.
I had a monster machine for years,,,sorry I sold it.
I do have a frame of a real tiller and it needs an engine that I should have.
Its a great little machine for light furrow work...
Shove the tines in Muriatic acid or a mild solution of a rust remover. Also cleaning vinegar works well or even battery acid if ya have an old car battery around
You can Zinc plate them
Iron in your soil is good for plants and the amount you would be adding would be negligible. Try a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder for the rust, and while you have the grinder out, take an 80 grit flap wheel and sharpen the tines to get through roots easier
@@chrisrageNJ Why is iron in soil good for plants? Where does this theory come from?
what kinds of all spray you using this maintaining.
I uses several, too many to list here .
I do feature many products in my videos, go check them out
For now check out this video short!
th-cam.com/users/shortsBtQzSGhxelA
Good content, great narrative
Thanks scott!
There is a clutch, just like a string trimmer it is between the engine and shaft. On string trimmers they engage at about 4,000rpm and idle is about 3,000rpm. That is why the tines do not turn at idle. I'm wondering how fast your drill that you tested it with turns?
I forget the scene, its been a while. If its the red drill then its slow for the torque.
@@TheNovaJohn Then that Mantis transmission may not be dead like you thought it was
@@WisconsinEric There is a second machine that I show has a fried transmission!
@@TheNovaJohn Mybe I am wrong but I believe that was the one you put the drill on to test the transmission while saying they do not have a clutch
@WisconsinEric I wrote in text that scrolled on the screen!, No Manual Clutch.
Sometimes I misspeak, I got it running years ago, a neighbor wanted to see if I could fix it. I got the engine running and the tranny squeed,, loud squeal and no blades turned.
I may have mentioned this but often things get cut out due to time constraints..
Its dead and we can see that in the gears.
Hi,I have a question. I have a 13 year old Mantis 6220 tiller that I picked up used a few months ago. I have replaced the carb and fuel tank plus all hoses. It runs fine when it is cold but after a few minutes tilling it looses power to the tines. Could it be a dirty and slipping clutch and clutch drum? Clean them? What do you think?
When you say looses power,,,,,lets define.
So you know your machines and you can tell that the tines just aren't working as hard, think back or maybe next time, listen to the engine speed and sound.
If you speed/sound changes in concurrence with the tines, then it may be the engine.
Another example may be, the tines loose power, the engine either doesn't change speed / RPM or actually increases in RPM because the clutch is slipping.
Considering you have serviced other components and have used it for a long time, its most likely the clutches!
@@TheNovaJohn let say,I am tilling in the garden and I have to lift it out of the trench that I am tilling. After I get it out of the trench it will then scoot across the ground. It may have a few roots on the tines, but not enough to stop the tines. I have weed reducers on the tines. It acts like to me the clutch is slipping in the clutch drum. My garden is about 30’ long and it digs normally for the first 15’. Well, you know as much as me, now.
Thanks Man, you really know your stuff.
Thanks Cass,,,,I'm still learning how to video,,,,No small task
Love it "release agent"
The
Mantis folks say to fill the crankcase up to the level of the flange with lithium grease. I would probably use my tube of white lithium grease to grease the crankcase.
I've noticed over the years that grease and especially these dry greases get thrown off the gears and stick to everything but where its needed.
I've seen snowblower transmissions fail this way with lithium in it..
I have to wonder; the same companies that make this stuff to fail will tell us how to take care of it! lol
With a new HIPA carb, mine starts with one pull every time, hot or cold.
Good to hear!! OK HIPA ya hear that?? lol
They will be happy...I use their products and yes they have had issues but they listen and work on it..!!
Good stuff...but I always try to fix and keep the original as a rule 1st!!
@@TheNovaJohn I rebuilt the original but it did not run right. I replaced it with a C1U K54 instead of the K82. They are identical except where the overflow line connects.
What is the spark plug gap ???
I said it in the video,,pays to watch!
Do you live in Orange Beach? My brothe lives there, too.
No,, lol, my brother in law was doing some work down there...Its a comfortable shirt!
I'm from Long Island N.Y.
You can hear my accent! hehehehehe
These things seem to have a lot more horse power then they do torque.
They make a lot of noise without much bite.
Yea, true, I bet if it got more bite it would fry the transmission.
so how long did it take you to figure out you put the primer backwards. I kept waiting for you to say opps but your video just stopped and turned it around :)
Thanks for reminding me!!! I pinned another comment, or I thought I did,,Gonna just put up a notice now in the description in caps!!!
What a day, so many distractions in the shop.
Thanks!!
NOTE: !!!! Readme
The GASKET/DIAPHRAGM ORDER IS CORRECT!
The video isn't wrong. I have tested it both ways, It WONT RUN any other way!
This is because it is a Primer Bulb / Fuel Pump Combination. The body of the primer bulb has ports on it that require a gasket to seal it, the diaphragm isn't thick enough to seal it and the tang (bump) that pushes on the needle fulcrum wont reach.
The diaphragm must seat to the machined surface as its very thin. The little bump on it can now actuate the fulcrum.
What others have commented on is correct for carburetor setups that use the steel plate to hold the diaphragm on, this is not the case / application here.
It blows my mind how they are still selling these things today with the same design.
Cuz it works well and people like them! Why mess with it.
Correct me if I'm wrong but that "bad" transmission would need 3100RPM+ to engage vs the 1800RPM the drill is giving.
Or is the shaft direct drive on top?
Without watching the video again as this is an older video; I had the one with the bad tranny running at one point. It squeeled, squeed and never moved the gears below. I showed the gears as well.
Generally the clutches on these small machines will begin to turn at low RPM's but they don't lock up as they would during use.
These techniques with drills are useful to help with diagnoses and repair.
A new carburetor costs $10.00. Why go through all of that cleaning? Includes the hose assembly and primer bulb.
$10 maybe a few years ago lol
I have a few videos on aftermarket carb issues and defects!
I work with HIPA and although they are very good, I have had issue here as well!
If a machine isn't running at all, I tend to rebuild the original carb if its in good shape. If its a mess then I have no choice.
2 Strokers often don't run. People ruin them. Why spend $20 or more on a machine that isn't worth it or just never gonna run again?
@@TheNovaJohnbecause that $20 in parts will save you $80 in labor if you were to value your time at $25/hr. For the 20 bucks you have a pretty solid chance of cleaning everything up and bolting it on and having it fire right up. Plus the kit comes with the grommet and fuel lines that go into the tank, along with the fuel filter, spark plug, and a bunch of other stuff. You can't justify fooling around with the old stuff with no guarantee that it'll work when you can get everything I said in a couple days, unless you're bored or impatient and want to get it running right then
Oh if life was sooo simple like that lol
I work with HIPA replacement parts, probably the better company out there.
I can tell you, even their stuff often has issues!
Generally I like to use original stuff rather then police some aftermarket crap!
Its good to show people on youtube other possibilities.
Your commenting on one video and one situation.
What will you say on all the videos I do where I replace a carb and it doesn't work out?
How much time and money is saved then?
Excellent thank you.
Thanks,,, & thanks for watching!
@@TheNovaJohn my pleasure. It was really useful as I’ve just inherited one of these that needs some attention. 👍
If you do not replace that missing carburetor screen, you are guaranteeing starting and running problems in the not-too-distant future. The good news is you are in first place in the longest screwdriver contest.
That's right!
These days I replace the carb,,,I always try to get things going with whatever is on the machine 1st.. My bet is someone worked on it already.
BTW I do have even longer screwdrivers!! lol
There has to be a clutch on it, otherwise the tines would turn at idle. That squealing sounds like a clutch to me. A drill will not turn a shaft fast enough to engage a clutch. Remember it is idling at about 2,800 RPMs at idle and that is not enough to engage the clutch.
Look again at the gears on the blown tranny.
I took my transmission off the engine and found a broken spring in the clutch .
Did ya fix it?
@TheNovaJohn I ended up putting a new clutch on it . Could not buy a spring to fit . Still working great.
@@dennisfoltz7880 Niceeeeeee,,,Good to hear!
First off it's hard for me to believe that you're from Alabama. The second thing is after watching a of these I can never understand the three fuel lines and where they go and nobody explains it. You can buy a carburetor for nothing but you still got the problem of where the fuel lines go.
Hahahahaha Its just my sweat shirt,,,my ex bro in law was there doing some work.
Try this video... I explain the different fuel lines, sizes and what and why they are used
Watch the whole thing because as I work I answer all of it
th-cam.com/video/v2AJR5mjIKw/w-d-xo.html
Most people will just order the carb kit with lines and will replace the the gromet, because you didnt you are not helping a lot of us because it is difficult to replace. Also Im guessing you wont show how to adjust the carb properly which most people would appreciate.
Most people will be like my contractor that just bought a new carb that didn't work then needed my help to figure it out and grab a used carb off a donor machine to get another trimmer working.
Most people will have this issue with aftermarket carbs but you wont hear of it because they have no public voice!
The you said,
"Also Im guessing you wont show how to adjust the carb properly which most people would appreciate."
So by this statement, you didn't even bother to watch the video or at least all of it!
The video is already too long! By MOST peoples standards!
I do have other videos that cover these topics.
Those subjects are NOT the purpose of this video, if I tried to put all of this into this video, NO one would ever watch it!
I waited this entire time to see which hoses go where and you past through it. Lame
ask for your money back!