How to 3D print miniatures on a FDM printer (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
- Get our 3D printable miniatures Kickstarter here:
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Learn how to 3D print D&D miniatures on a $200 Ender 3 3D printer, including a full explanation of all key slicer settings and why they were chosen. This video is the second part of this series, covering finishing techniques to clean minis up for painting.
Links:
Fat Dragon Games:
www.fatdragongames.com/fdgfile...
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Join our Dragonlock Facebook group for help with 3D printing Dragonlock models, see Dragonlock D&D tabletop terrain builds others have made, and much more!
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Sign up for the Fat Dragon Games Newsletter here for previews of our D&D terrain and miniatures:
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The Creality Ender 3 printer used for these miniatures can be purchased here.
Amazon affiliate links (As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases):
Ender 3 printer:
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amzn.to/2xSoIcr
Ender 3 Pro Printer:
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Bed leveling test model:
www.dropbox.com/sh/vr9lkpjt6z...
Cura profiles:
www.fatdragongames.com/fdgfile...
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Tools I recommend for working on minis :
Needle Files:
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Sandpaper:
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Magnifier:
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Hobby Knife:
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Knife Blades:
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Micro Flush Cutter:
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Blue Tape:
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Glue:
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Replacement/upgrade parts from Amazon:
Bowden Tube fittings (not essential to begin with, but these are much better than the ones supplied with the printer and you will want to replace them eventually):
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Extra nozzles:
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Micro SD to SD extender:
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Filament (eSun PLA Pro Gray):
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Upgraded aluminum extruder for Ender 3:
amzn.to/2LJWGZW - เกม
I've purchased many of your model packages, and as a customer I really appreciate the service you are providing in these videos. Thank You!
Thanks! :)
Thank you for these tips and tricks. I have been using them in all my prints and painting sessions.
the detail is soo good!
Nice tips about the Pledge and priming! Thanks.
Small hairs are wonderfully dealt with by a very quick exposure to a heat gun or even a lighter.
Just make sure it;s like split second enough to heat the tiny strings but not enough to heat any significant parts of the model.
Great vid and thanks for doing what you're doing. You've helped me understand a lot when it comes to 3D Printing
Thank you :)
Great video Tom, Hadn't thought about multiple coats of primer.
Bloody hell that looked good !!
Stumbled on your channel the other day and am really loving all the tips! I do have one suggestion for filling gaps.
Use baking soda on one side and super glue on the other side od the model. Not only does the baking soda fill the gap easier, but it also acts as a catalyst and speeds up the drying process.
Keep up the good work
Thanks, I'll try that out :)
Cool office. Nice tips on gel glue. The traditional superglue is really thin and can run everywhere. Thanks!
Some excellent tips there, cheers Tom
Thanks!
Hmmm, acrylic floor sealant for surface smoothing - intriguing! So far i have tried regular epoxy resin with very mixed results. XTC 3D is supposed to be quite good, but not that cheap, though a little supposedly goes a long way for minis. Both need to be mixed and have a rather limited processing time though, and the brush needs to be replaced after each usage . Would really love to see a comparison video between those surface treatment methods with focus on reducing layer lines on minis with complex geometries and fine details.
I've been doing the heavy coats of flat primer, I'll give the middle satin layer a try.
Liquid Green Stuff works great for small seams.
"Eye beast" There's a nice safe name to behold.
Edit: If you're really quick/careful with a lighter you can burn most stringing away.
Edit 2: That floor cleaner is an amazing tip
The lighter trick works for exterior stringing, but not in enclosed areas like the mouth (at least I've never been able to get it to work without melting the surrounding cavity.) :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Ive had some success with a hair dryer.
@@zid_just_zid same. Thats what i use
Looks like I can use Future for more than canopies and affixing decals... I may even get around to using it for its intended purpose someday...
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Wow your wall is nice .
I need your "supports" video more than ever...... I dont know how you can print some models without supports breaking all the details....
Please, do it soon!!!!
Im a big fan of your channel. :)
Regards!!
if you want something really neat, print with a dual extruder and pva support interface, it uses almost no pva and allows you to remove support by soaking the print in water and peeling the support away.
His models are designed NOT to have supports.
Have you tried to make the inside concave? Maybe it can help reducing the gaps.
What designing software do you use to design the miniatures you print? I would like to start designing my own and would be very grateful if you could tell me :)
Would you recommend the same 3-primer approach with terrain? And the coat of clear acrylic? Do you find it makes a difference on smoothing out larger items or just really more detailed minis?
You can mix baby powder with super glue to make a paste that's even better for filling gaps.
Thanks! I'll have to try that. :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors so you know baking powder is even better and acts as a strengthening agent.
@@simulatedfish1995 The method isnt mixing in baking powder, its sprinkling it on like an activator that turns into into something that takes filing, drilling and paint almost like plastic.
Havnt heard about the baby powder paste, gonna look into that.
Was there a part 3 for this? On your channel I see a video titled "How to print better miniatures: pt.3 Resin quality..." but that appears to be part of different set of videos.
For Glue I mostly use special plastic glue that "melts" the plastic (like those for warhammer miniatures), just works fine too ^^.
Are you talking about styrene glue? That works on PLA?
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I don´t know what (I am not a native speaker sorry) what styrene glue is. I mean something like this: www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Plastic-Glue-2016-Global
And yeah it works. Not that good as with "Normal" plastic, but it works
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors The Citadel glue will work, but it won't give as good of a bond. There IS a product that was Kickstarted awhile back, and it's out now called 3dGloop. It's essentially the same thing but they have a formula created especially for PLA, and holy crap does it work. If you're interested in checking it out, I think 3D Printing Nerd did a review of it a week or two ago.
I'm thinking I'll try that stuff and use greenstuff to fill any large gaps since that's what I'm used to using anyway. It's nice to have the ability to sculpt in a little bit of detail if you have a large gap so it doesn't just look like a weird flat spot in an otherwise textured or rounded model.
I'll share my newest discovery for gap filling miniatures. Bondic. It is a UV cured resin pen, has been great so far. You would use it the same as you are the superglue, apply and then smooth, but it won't cure until you hit it with UV light so you have much better working time.
I'll look into that :)
Please pardon me for asking something that might have been asked already; I am not good at searching through comments and channels for this sort of thing...
Do you have any videos on general ways to design things like this that do not require supports for the many different things protruding from this model? And also for cutting up a model in such a way that you can create the little registration "pins" inside to help assemble them? Or if not your videos, perhaps some you could point me towards? I only have experience with mechanical models, as my Lightwave skills are 20+ years old. I used to model things in that, but... well not in years. :P
Thanks.
Hey there! Do you happen to have a video on printing with supports? I have the Ender 3 Pro and I am printing with PLA and I just can't hang with these supports, I can't seam to get it right. I am currently using your Miniature Print Profile in Cura
Any replacements for the floor care now that it's not available anymore?
Can any of the european viewers point me to a good substitute for the krylon spray? Krylon(cept the camo line) is really hard to get your hands on here in germany.
I just got an Ender 2 Pro and started printing and painting. Your priming method seemed to work fine with the small coil of white PLA that came with the printer, but when I tried the same thing on a print of blue Creality PLAthe satin finish has reacted strangely with the flat 1st coat of primer. It doesn't seem to bond to the flat primer and stays very sticky, even after 24 hours. Even after I put another coat of flat over the satin any paint I applied over it cracked. It just seems like certain PLA filaments don't like your satin finish.
Is that beholder model for sale on your site anywhere? I'd love to have that on my table top for my next session!
It's in our next Kickstarter, launching in January. :)
hi!! thanks for the videos! They were really very helpful. A doubt. Can you show your support configuration? I tried several and I always end up breaking the minis when I take them out!! Thank you very much!!
None of my sculpts require supports, I design everything to print without them for FDM printers. :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors thanks for answering!
Did you mention what type of filament was used? Is it PLA?
3:15 And remember to floss, kids!
Is the Pledge Finish the same as Pledge Revive? Seeing Revive but not the other
Hey there, great video! Just curious, I heard you mention you used a .75 layer height for the model, I've heard that prints are best done at multiples of the nozzle width. Is there a reason you chose .75 over .8?
'Magic numbers' for optimal layer heights are based on the pitch of the Z screw and stepper motor rotation, nozzle aperture doesn't really figure into it except as a limit on maximum layer height (for a .4 nozzle, you shouldn't print over .3 layer thickness.) I printed at .75 as it gave me the optimal layer graduations for the large curved eyeball on this specific miniature, that's all. :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors My mistake, the nozzle width is irrelevant but my understanding is that the Ender 3's "magic numbers" are multiples of .04 nonetheless.
Actually, in every test we have run in our office, .1 beats .08 on layer quality, and .05 beats .04.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors .75 can't be right. Do you mean .075?
Yes, sorry, that's a typo, should be .075. :)
large sized minis like this are easy, but medium sized creature minis with thin weapons and tiny details like clothing and overhangs are a pain in the ass. i havent really tried custom supports yet, but im beginning to think they are the key to printing medium sized creatures because printing without supports is always gonna fail with minis, but printing with default supports is gonna be too difficult to take off without leaving behind defects.
Just wait until you see our Kickstarter (coming soon), even tiny miniatures with small weapons like goblins print beautifully.
Hey,i have downloaded the cura version 4.12 and copied your settings for mini's (couldn't import them). print quality is very good but i have an issue that my printhead is going to the left,right or front during a print (or when done with a layer) and it purge's a little while doing so and ruins the prints.Might you have a solution in cura settings how to fix this?
Printer is ideaformer pro,alu dual gear extruder (esteps are 'correct').
He does this with all my prints and no one knows why :(
What filament did you use with your cura profile?
I’m using eSun PLA + , but I’m printing at 215 degrees ( at 205 I experience under extrusion)
eSun PLA+/Pro here too, different printers can read differing temps due to their thermistors (my Ender 5 is actually about 10˚ hotter than what the LCD on it says). You just need to find the temp that works best for you. :)
Hello, I'm fench and I wood make a minis with fdm,have you help..?
Is this particular eye beast model in Dragonlock Ultimate: Dungeon Delve 2?
No, this one is in our upcoming Kickstarter. We'll be announcing a launch date soon. :)
I would highly recommend printing on glass. you can end up with seems that are almost invisible with little to no work.
I have used glass, but on the Ender 3 the glass adds a lot of mass to the Y axis, and it slightly degrades print quality, so I stick with the stock build surface which I love.
Is that on larger prints? I've been running 1/4" glass on my Ender 3 for months. And now that I'm running your profile on minis, I'm getting outstanding results.
Yes, anything where the Y axis is making long fast movements.
Okay, that makes sense then. I don't print much big or fast.
I got your profiles...what to use for mini? there are two profiles for minis and one for the floors etc
One mini profile is for .4mm nozzles, the other is for .3mm nozzles.
Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors I think I chose the wrong one and it still turned absolutely bonkers :))) so good!!!! Now I’m gonna have to buy all of your designs lol
I'm printing a miniature with small teeth but it looses details on it, any tips on that like orientation? im using your cura profiles with sunlu pla @ 210°n 60°b
Is it a FDG product?
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors no, its this one, for me the teeth is a key feature and the knife head too, but in cura the shell didn't fill all the model and when slicing it looses detail. Its printed in parts btw cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/matstation-stinger
You need to ask the designer for their recommended settings then, I can only offer assistance with my designs.
Does it have to be Krylon or can it be any other satin spray?
I would think most any would work :)
You need to try hot water sanding :)
I will do that!
pro tip heat gun at low heat for stringing
Thanks, I'll give that a try! :)
lmao eye beast....looks very familiar...I dont know maybe Big Trouble in Little China!!!
Kinda reminds me of one of the eye demons from Doom
SilverLineGaming I actually just printed one and I’m planning to paint it just like the DOOM Cacodemon.
Man, once its primed, take equal parts of glycerin and unflavored gelatin, mix it on low heat to make a thick liquid, let cool a minute or two. While its cooling, glue the beholders platform down in a small box, then pour the mixture over it. Let it cool in fridge for a few hours. Now you have a mold of your object. You can cast in resin now. Oh, and once done casting, just remelt the jelly mold and pour yourself a mew mold of something
Try acetone
Acetone doesn't work on PLA. Acetone is also toxic.
There is no cura profile in dropbox
Fixed. Go here: www.fatdragongames.com/fdgfiles/?p=4934
But you didn't talk about supports?!?!?!
Because none of our Dragonlock miniatures need slicer supports. :)
Wait, di I print at .75 or 1?
Our profile for Cura that is linked in the video description is set to .1 :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Which one is better?
For the Ender 3, I prefer .1
A
humm...Printed at .75 layer height?
Slip of the tongue, .075. :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors oh! thx
This is NOT "How to 3D print miniatures on a FDM printer (Part 2)" but should be instead "How to PREP your 3D PrintED model". Would be great if you could do the second part to th-cam.com/video/AqEWl51s9Rw/w-d-xo.html in which you said the next video would be on supports as that was a large enough topic on its own.
Not salty, just hate misleading titles. Had to give a thumbs down as the content was good but was NOT as advertised.
PS LOVED the first part and really hope you do your supports video soon.
you need to eat more vitamins