Excellent video with detailed steps! Thank you!!! Now I will attempt to repair my generator and clean my stove. The only comment I have is that I would be nervous of dropping parts down my sink drain when washing them so I will cover the drain.
You're a brave man, working over the sink with no drain screen!! LOL I'm just about to refurbish an old stove I've had for about 40 years, and found your video very informative. Thanks! Subscribed.
I’ve taken two basket cases stoves and done complete rebuilds. This is a fantastic example of how to take a good stove and do required maintenance. Keep up the great work!
Terrific video. I have been working on a number of non coleman stoves, but the techniques you have displayed here are going to help me immensely going forward. Thank you for continuing to upload.
Thank you for the video. I learned a lot. You are a good teacher and presenter. I just went through two of my suitcase stoves. One I just cleaned up. The other de-rusted and painted. I never knew electrolysis would strip paint. Thanks again for your videos.
I like your video and wish i had your patience to take the time to do this kind of work. I am72 and have used these stoves a lot and love the fact that a lot of products could made with this quality if companies were not so money hungry and people would love to buy their products. Great work and great video.
Thanks a lot for running through this. Very clear and good tips. Only suggestion might be to have a closeup camera for when you're trying to show details.
Great video sir. One think I see that gets to me is that you use a crescent wrench incorrectly every time.. but I very much appreciate the valuable information you put out here!
Really good video, I have the 3 burner one that I bought about 25 years ago and will be refurbishing that tomorrow. These are very good cookers and with a bit of tlc will last a lifetime.
Awesome video, I have a 508 single burner also,restoring it, and there seems to be two white pads in manifold,not sure what they are or where to find them,any help would be great,regards mc spittle, Lexington nc,usa
I don't really collect American models and have no experience with 508 stoves. I don't see anything corresponding to your description in Coleman's parts list or exploded view. They may have been part of the burner assembly.
Great instructional video! I have a ? about the fuel and air tube "controller" I think I heard you say that it has a graphite packing in it and I'm concerned that I may have damaged that portion of it from soaking it in boiling salt & vinegar and wondered if I there's a way to replace that. I'm already ordering the graphite packing on the valve stem because yes it was very crumbly after doing the same thing.
I've never seen the f/a control lever sold or listed separately from the valve. What's the problem with yours? If it's leaking, tightening it up should fix the problem.
@@king.coleman I haven't put pressure on it yet because it's still not back on the fuel tank but I'm just concerned if I screwed up by soaking it in boiling salt/vinegar to clean it up nicely like you got yours because yours looks super badass!
@@TonyWatchesClosely It's probably fine. An acid solution won't usually damage the graphite so that it no longer seals, it will just cause the graphite to lose its lubricating properties, making the thing harder to turn. In the case of the f/a level, the graphite packing is so small, I doubt you'd notice much of a difference. It's the larger graphite packings on the valve stem that can get very hard to turn after prolonged exposure to an acid bath.
A great video and great timing for me to find it. I've just finished refurbishing a 431 which is the exact same model we had when I was a kid. Oddly enough I am unable to date this one though. No date stamps anywhere on the case and the tank has very unclear stamping on one of the tabs. The tab nearest the fuel cap has two a 1 stamped and a second stamped 90 degrees from the first. No other numbers. I am guessing this means Jan 1981 but I really have no idea. Whoever was doing the dates that day seems to have been a bit sleepy behind the press.
There won't be a date stamped on the case. That was done on some American models, but never in Canada. But, yes, sometimes the stamping on the tabs is of poor quality. I've found more than one where the stamping was so light and the paint so thick that it had to be stripped before it was legible.
Nozzle? Do you mean the gas tip on the generator? It shouldn't leak if tight. If it's tight and still leaks, that's very odd and all I can suggest is that you replace the generator.
Hello. Thank you for the great video! I recently bought a 417B and am planning to take it apart and clean decades of grime. I noticed that the cast iron burner assembly has a gasket. Do you know if gaskets from the early 40s had asbestos?
Awesome hair !! But you know this , great video! Totally helped ...have a butane stove but they suck in cold weather, gonna restore my old 71...421 Thanks
You mean citric acid? I get mine in 2kg bags at a place that sells wine and beer-making supplies. You can buy it on Amazon or in smaller amounts anywhere canning supplies are sold.
hi there and thanks for such a detailed video. i'm the proud new owner of a Tourist 421D that doesn't shut off if under pressure. the shut off is in the valve body. any suggestions how i can dress both surfaces? i was thinking lapping compound normally used for resurfacing intake/exhaust valves in automotive engines.
When you say it doesn't shut off, how long have you let it sit after closing the valve? It can take quite a while for the fuel in the system to burn off. They don't shut off immediately when you close the valve. If it's still running five minutes later, you've got a problem. If it's out by then, it's fine. If it really isn't shutting off, I'd start by cleaning the valve body and valve stem. When a valve won't seat properly, it often just needs to be cleaned. Make a close visual inspection of the valve stem while you're at it. On the rare occasion that a groove has developed from overtightening, it's always on the tip of the valve stem (at least in my experience) and can be addressed by simply buffing it on a high-speed buffing wheel with some polishing compound.
@@king.coleman thanks for the response. i haven't waited 5mins because i didn't think it should take that long. what i've done is aim the generator into a container and it just keeps spitting out fuel (down position). as long as there is pressure the fuel just keeps spraying out.
@@king.coleman thanks for your support. what i ended up doing is using some lapping compound. i am now getting the same result as my 431. thanks so much for your support and great videos - cheers :)
I found a 425 F two burner Coleman stove it was in excellent shape the only thing wrong with it is when i pump it up, it will pump up but as it gets harder to pump the stem will shoot back out before i can screw it closed. Then it has a hard time getting fuel it is a hit or miss thing to get constant flow could you give me a solution on how to fix it i would greatly appreciate it thank you. I also found a 63 220 lantern excellent shape for 10 bucks needed to mantels, and it worked great found both yard sales.
It sounds like you've got a leaking check valve at the bottom of the pump tube. Pump the tank up, put it under water, and look for bubbles. If you've got a steady stream coming from the bottom of the pump tube, your check valve is leaking. Unless you've got a removal tool, don't try to take the check valve out. A possible easy fix is to remove the pump and spray from carb cleaner into the tube. Let it soak for a few days and see if things improve.
Oh I have yet another? I didn't catch the model of that stove because I have a 424 dual fuel stove that looks very much like that one I think the only difference is both burners look the same size on mine. I also have a 425B but can't make out the date on the tank when I got it the tank was painted red but after wire brushing it I saw that it was originally copper. All I know about the date was manufacturing dates were ranged from 1954- 1962 and I decided to do a complete restoration on it because of how old it can possibly be and the body is in great condition (no dents) unlike the body on the 424. The 424 has some rusted corners sadly but it still works great when I last fired it up a couple of weeks ago.
Would really like to see a repainting video if you ever get the time. How do you deal with rust on the metal hardware clasps that keep the stove closed? Would a Drexel wire wheel followed by a polishing wheel get it nice and shiny again?
I've got a few stove videos planned that will involve repainting, but they'll be older stoves. Hardware can be tricky when the nickel or chrome plating is flaking off. I just cleaned up an otherwise pristine 444A that had badly flaking hardware. I opted to leave it the way it was since there was very little rust involved. I usually rely on an electrolysis tank for stripping and derusting stoves. That'll remove the rust. You could use a wire wheel or wet-sanding to clean up the metal after removing the rust, but I don't think you'll ever make the bare steel shine again. On some of my first restorations I smoothed the hardware as best I could, then sprayed with silver paint. Some people like that look, but I'm not a big fan. I'd probably only do that these days if I felt the need to protect the steel from moisture. I store all my stoves in a dry, heated space so that's not a problem for me. If you've got a powder-coating setup, there are some really nice faux-chrome finishes available. If you went that route you'd also have to be able to rivet the hardware back onto the stove body. I've never gone that far on a project.
Hi. I restored my 413g works well but every so often there’s a loud pop. Sounds like a build up of fuel igniting. Any ideas how to resolve the problem? Cheers.
That's a tough one. Does anything accompany the noise? Does it flare up? Does the flame decrease? Does the flame retreat into the manifold when it pops?
@@king.coleman all Seems normal. There’s no flare up burners lovely and blue powerful flame. Then a very loud pop. Which is powerful enough to blow burner out. The pop is loud enough to give me a fright.
Just bought a 431 ( 20.00 ) and washed it out with Brake Clean and then filled it with white gas ( 22.00/ liter ouch ). Works well and according to the Coleman forum I can run unleaded gas in it with the caveat of a bit more cleaning required. So as to the video , good to see, but I am wondering about the case as mine looks like it fell off a truck at speed and tumbled down a forest road. Internals are good, externals are bent.
You can burn gasoline. The models marketed as "dual fuel" have a somewhat beefier generator, I expect so that it can handle any additional carbon buildup that comes from burning pump gas. Some folks claim that modern additives in pump gas are dangerous to use for cooking, but if Coleman sells stoves that burn pump gas, it doesn't seem like that should be a problem. The problems I've found come when burning gasoline with ethanol added, so I buy premium unleaded from either Costco or Chevron, which the local stations have assured me is ethanol-free. I've never had an issue with it. I would only say to buy what you can use within a few months. Stale pump gas-more than 5-6 months old-will make a mess of your fuel system. And never store a lantern or stove with unleaded in it unless you know you'll be using it within a few months. As far as doing "body work" on your stove...you can if you have the skills. 431s are extremely common and usually cost very little, so it it were me, I wouldn't bother.
Here's question number two how would I clean and take the rust off the drip tray off a three-burner stove and paint it I have a Sears 3 burner stove that has a drip tray that has rust Gunk and it needs to be painted?
Oven cleaner is good at removing "gunk". I'd recommend electrolysis for rust removal, but if you don't have an e-tank you can always use steel wool and/or sandpaper depending on how bad the rust is. Even if I used an e-tank, I'd probably still do some sanding before painting. Paint with high-temp silver paint. Silver barbecue paint is okay in this case, as the drip tray doesn't get that hot. But if you're painting the burners, you'll need to go with the really high-temp stuff as the barbecue paint will quickly discolour and burn off the burners.
Replacement leather pump cups are available. I'm not sure if Coleman still sells them, but you can get them from Old Coleman Parts (oldcolemanparts.com). Most stores that carry parts seem to stock the new style pump with a neoprene cup. They work fine, but the neoprene doesn't have nearly the longevity of leather. Unless you're working on a very early stove, like one from the 1920s, or one of the small backpacking stoves with a shorter pump length, the pump parts are interchangeable and any replacement, whether a new leather cup or a new pump assembly should work fine in any stove.
Sometimes, yes. It's a pretty good match for the stoves made in the Wichita factory from the mid-1940s on and for the Toronto-made stoves of the 50s and 60s. I have yet to find a good match for the 1930/1940s or 1970s/1980s Canadian green.
Hello and thanks for the very informative videos. New subscriber here. I'm refurbishing a coleman 426D three burner. I followed your procedures which were very helpful. I noticed at approximately 29-30 minutes into this video that you talk about not boiling the packing in the valve. I followed your suggestion and just let the valve (with packing and nut) soak in a cup with vinegar and boiling water. All went well, and the stove burns beautiful blue flames. The only problem I'm having now is that the main burner takes a very long time to completely turn off...(5 to 8 minutes). You mentioned that boiling the packing may damage it, but it should still work. Do you think a damaged packing may be causing my problem? If not, do you have any ideas what may be causing the extended shut off time? Thanks again for great videos.
The packing doesn't have anything to do with the flow of fuel to the burner. The packing serves only to keep fuel from leaking out around the valve stem. 5-8 minutes does seem a little on the long side for the stove to fully burn out, but it's not unheard of, especially with a big 426 generator. There's quite a lot of fuel in the system when you turn off the valve and it will take a while for it to burn off. If there is a problem, it's likely with the valve stem seat. Either the tip of the stem or the seat in the valve body (or both) aren't quite smooth, have become grooved, or "dinged" by debris caught in it (they're made of soft brass), and could be allowing a very small amount of fuel to leak. A visual inspect may be in order. Both surfaces should be smooth. If the tip of the stem has a groove or some other defect, it can often be fixed using a buffing wheel or fine sandpaper. Another test--done with minimal fuel in the tank--is to slowly and carefully vent pressure from the fuel cap after closing the valve. If the stove then extinguishes itself in a significantly shorter period of time when there's no pressure in the tank, then you know the valve is leaking. Again, just be very cautious when venting the pressure and make sure you're not doing it with a full tank of gas.
If it's a Canadian Easi-Lite model, then yes, it will have two o-rings in the valve. Check out my video on Easi-Lite stoves for coverage of those models.
Hey great vid! I’ve been really enjoying your videos on repairing Coleman Products. What green and red paint color does Coleman use? I want to repaint my old 3 burner from the 60’s.
The red they used is was pretty consistent and I've found Rustoleum Banner Red to be a good match. Their greens were very inconsistent, especially in Canada. I typically use Rustoleum Hunter Green, but it depends on the stove. The lighter green used by the Toronto factory in the 70s and 80s is pretty much impossible to match short of a custom mix.
I have a 425D & 425E I need to refurbish & you certainly did a thorough job on this one...had to use ear buds to hear because the volume was so low, but it was very informative...great content...maybe I can catch you on tour with A Flock Of Seagulls...Lol! Just kidding...80s hair rocks...🖖🏿😎👍🏿
Good to see ya! This video must’ve been filmed quite a long time ago, right? “If all you need to do is oil then pump cup, I made a video this week on how to do that.” Lol
Obviously not great for backpacking,but great for canoeing. I bring a extra cylinder of gas in the stove. Use a msr gas cylinder or something the same. Fits in stove as well .
Great video Bill, thank you. I recently restored a 421-C that had never been taken apart prior, & noticed that the small burner was on the right (primary). The opening pre-teardown shots in your video, as well as Coleman's 421-C owner's manual confirm this is correct. In your video, when you reassembled the stove, you installed the large burner as the primary. This makes sense to me, as this is how the 431 is setup, & the primary is the main cooking burner. Any idea as to why Coleman did this? Looking at the original manuals for the 421 series, the location of the LARGE burner was as follows: 421 (right), 421-A (right), 421-B (left), 421-C (left), 421-D (left), 421-E (right). It almost seems like a mistake that they didn't catch for three models, but if you have any info on this I'd love to hear it. I'm tempted to just swap the burners on mine so the large one is the primary. Thanks again for posting this video, it was very helpful!
That confuses the heck out of me as well because at the moment I'm restoring a 425B and have another stove that is a 424 which the burners on the 424 is almost identical and the burners are very noticeably different in size on the 425B.
@@king.colemanMaybe they were attempting to make the secondary capable of more equal power output as the main when both were in use? Then realizing that it really doesn't usually matter and you'd rather a big burner for boiling water and the secondary for cooking pancakes or something.
@@mikafoxx2717 I don't know. The size of the burner cups isn't going to make a difference in output and the auxiliary is always going to output fewer BTUs. I'm no physicist, but the only reason I can think of to have a larger cup on the auxiliary would be to allow the flame to spread out for greater distribution of its smaller output.
@@king.coleman Cool, I just thought more restriction of flow in the primary would let more flow to the secondary. Probably not enough to matter since in practice you probably want one hotter than the other anyways. Right now I'm working on a 61 413F and a 79 426D.
That stove came out quite nicely. It's funny you specifically chose simple green because it's a weaker detergent. The reason completely makes sense. I usually avoid that stuff because it doesn't degrease very well for my automotive type needs hahaha
I'm trying to figure out why I can get good performance, but when I turn the gas off, it will stay on! That is: Burner running, turn clockwise to shut down, but it never shuts off. However, if I turn back counterclockwise from full stop, it will turn off at about two turns. So at full close, it is actually open a bit, and leaks gas. But at only partially closed, it actually closes. ...hard to try to explain... sorry.
@@rvrnnr987 Thanks. That's got a traditional valve. The stem seats in the valve body when turned clockwise as far as it will go. If it's not shutting off when the valve is closed, there may be debris keeping the stem from seating fully or the stem or seat may be damaged and allowing fuel to leak past. Note, however, that it can take a few minutes for the flame to completely go out when the valve is shut. There's a fair bit of fuel vapour in the system. The bit about it shutting off when turned clockwise a couple of turns simply doesn't add up. Any clockwise rotation from the closed position will unseat the valve stem and open the valve. There's no way the valve is shut when you do that. The only thing that comes to mind is that there's some major carbon build-up on the cleaning needle and when the valve knob is in that position, the carbon build-up could be plugging the gas tip enough to cause the stove to go out. But that's different from being shut off. There's still liquid and vapour in the system and it will leak and could start a fire because the fuel supply isn't shut off at the valve.
@@king.coleman Thanks, is there a video that shows this broken down so that I can make sure I know what parts are being discussed? I think I understand what you are saying though.
These stoves are king. Use them as back country stoves or car camp. As a back country you have a little more to pack but great meals! You can batter them alot!
The auxiliary burner is never going to be as powerful as the primary, because the fuel reaching it will not be under the same pressure as the fuel reaching the primary. To get equal pressure to each burner you'd have to have a design with the generator feeding the centre of the manifold. Some of the old AGM, Albert Lea, and Prentiss Wabers are built that way, with the tank hanging off the end of the stove and the genny crossing the primary burner for heat, but entering the manifold more of less in the middle. th-cam.com/video/WldHDYuyfxU/w-d-xo.html
Some people just want a stove in working order and others are interested in a full restoration. For many of us the fun is in the process of restoring a heap of rust to its original glory.
I really like your TH-cams, but on my Mac, I can not hear you well. I have it turned up all the way. I can hear all other TH-cam Coleman folk but you. And I really want to hear you!
Excellent video with detailed steps! Thank you!!! Now I will attempt to repair my generator and clean my stove. The only comment I have is that I would be nervous of dropping parts down my sink drain when washing them so I will cover the drain.
You're a brave man, working over the sink with no drain screen!! LOL I'm just about to refurbish an old stove I've had for about 40 years, and found your video very informative. Thanks! Subscribed.
I’ve taken two basket cases stoves and done complete rebuilds. This is a fantastic example of how to take a good stove and do required maintenance. Keep up the great work!
Terrific video. I have been working on a number of non coleman stoves, but the techniques you have displayed here are going to help me immensely going forward. Thank you for continuing to upload.
Thank you for the video. I learned a lot. You are a good teacher and presenter. I just went through two of my suitcase stoves. One I just cleaned up. The other de-rusted and painted. I never knew electrolysis would strip paint. Thanks again for your videos.
Thank you for a complete A-Z video, I'm trying to restore my Dad's 425B stove.
I like your video and wish i had your patience to take the time to do this kind of work. I am72 and have used these stoves a lot and love the fact that a lot of products could made with this quality if companies were not so money hungry and people would love to buy their products. Great work and great video.
Thanks a lot for running through this. Very clear and good tips. Only suggestion might be to have a closeup camera for when you're trying to show details.
Great video sir. One think I see that gets to me is that you use a crescent wrench incorrectly every time.. but I very much appreciate the valuable information you put out here!
Really good video, I have the 3 burner one that I bought about 25 years ago and will be refurbishing that tomorrow. These are very good cookers and with a bit of tlc will last a lifetime.
They are great stoves. I just got back from a week of camping at Goldstream, near Victoria, and my 446 was serving us meals the whole time.
Awesome video, I have a 508 single burner also,restoring it, and there seems to be two white pads in manifold,not sure what they are or where to find them,any help would be great,regards mc spittle, Lexington nc,usa
I don't really collect American models and have no experience with 508 stoves. I don't see anything corresponding to your description in Coleman's parts list or exploded view. They may have been part of the burner assembly.
Great instructional video! I have a ? about the fuel and air tube "controller" I think I heard you say that it has a graphite packing in it and I'm concerned that I may have damaged that portion of it from soaking it in boiling salt & vinegar and wondered if I there's a way to replace that. I'm already ordering the graphite packing on the valve stem because yes it was very crumbly after doing the same thing.
I've never seen the f/a control lever sold or listed separately from the valve. What's the problem with yours? If it's leaking, tightening it up should fix the problem.
@@king.coleman I haven't put pressure on it yet because it's still not back on the fuel tank but I'm just concerned if I screwed up by soaking it in boiling salt/vinegar to clean it up nicely like you got yours because yours looks super badass!
@@TonyWatchesClosely It's probably fine. An acid solution won't usually damage the graphite so that it no longer seals, it will just cause the graphite to lose its lubricating properties, making the thing harder to turn. In the case of the f/a level, the graphite packing is so small, I doubt you'd notice much of a difference. It's the larger graphite packings on the valve stem that can get very hard to turn after prolonged exposure to an acid bath.
@@king.coleman Man thanks for letting me know that so now I can at least put my mind at ease. 👍
A great video and great timing for me to find it. I've just finished refurbishing a 431 which is the exact same model we had when I was a kid. Oddly enough I am unable to date this one though. No date stamps anywhere on the case and the tank has very unclear stamping on one of the tabs. The tab nearest the fuel cap has two a 1 stamped and a second stamped 90 degrees from the first. No other numbers. I am guessing this means Jan 1981 but I really have no idea. Whoever was doing the dates that day seems to have been a bit sleepy behind the press.
There won't be a date stamped on the case. That was done on some American models, but never in Canada. But, yes, sometimes the stamping on the tabs is of poor quality. I've found more than one where the stamping was so light and the paint so thick that it had to be stripped before it was legible.
My nozzle is leaking from the thread, any suggestions ti silve this? Great video! Thank you!
Nozzle? Do you mean the gas tip on the generator? It shouldn't leak if tight. If it's tight and still leaks, that's very odd and all I can suggest is that you replace the generator.
Hello. Thank you for the great video! I recently bought a 417B and am planning to take it apart and clean decades of grime. I noticed that the cast iron burner assembly has a gasket. Do you know if gaskets from the early 40s had asbestos?
Yes, the old gaskets are made of asbestos.
Thanks, Bill! Well done! Do any of your videos show the buffing wheel setup and compound you are using to polish with?
See here at about 4:45
th-cam.com/video/jMSm1I_RvHY/w-d-xo.html
Awesome hair !! But you know this , great video! Totally helped ...have a butane stove but they suck in cold weather, gonna restore my old 71...421 Thanks
Excellent video. Where would one get acetic acid powder and what strength would you recommend?
You mean citric acid? I get mine in 2kg bags at a place that sells wine and beer-making supplies. You can buy it on Amazon or in smaller amounts anywhere canning supplies are sold.
hi there and thanks for such a detailed video. i'm the proud new owner of a Tourist 421D that doesn't shut off if under pressure. the shut off is in the valve body. any suggestions how i can dress both surfaces? i was thinking lapping compound normally used for resurfacing intake/exhaust valves in automotive engines.
When you say it doesn't shut off, how long have you let it sit after closing the valve? It can take quite a while for the fuel in the system to burn off. They don't shut off immediately when you close the valve. If it's still running five minutes later, you've got a problem. If it's out by then, it's fine. If it really isn't shutting off, I'd start by cleaning the valve body and valve stem. When a valve won't seat properly, it often just needs to be cleaned. Make a close visual inspection of the valve stem while you're at it. On the rare occasion that a groove has developed from overtightening, it's always on the tip of the valve stem (at least in my experience) and can be addressed by simply buffing it on a high-speed buffing wheel with some polishing compound.
@@king.coleman thanks for the response. i haven't waited 5mins because i didn't think it should take that long. what i've done is aim the generator into a container and it just keeps spitting out fuel (down position). as long as there is pressure the fuel just keeps spraying out.
@@king.coleman thanks for your support. what i ended up doing is using some lapping compound. i am now getting the same result as my 431. thanks so much for your support and great videos - cheers :)
Hello there when painting drip trey,no need for primer first? Thank you
It's up to you. I use barbecue or high-temp paint and they don't usually recommend primer underneath.
@@king.coleman ok thank you I'll be buying the paint today.have a good day.
I found a 425 F two burner Coleman stove it was in excellent shape the only thing wrong with it is when i pump it up, it will pump up but as it gets harder to pump the stem will shoot back out before i can screw it closed. Then it has a hard time getting fuel it is a hit or miss thing to get constant flow could you give me a solution on how to fix it i would greatly appreciate it thank you. I also found a 63 220 lantern excellent shape for 10 bucks needed to mantels, and it worked great found both yard sales.
It sounds like you've got a leaking check valve at the bottom of the pump tube. Pump the tank up, put it under water, and look for bubbles. If you've got a steady stream coming from the bottom of the pump tube, your check valve is leaking. Unless you've got a removal tool, don't try to take the check valve out. A possible easy fix is to remove the pump and spray from carb cleaner into the tube. Let it soak for a few days and see if things improve.
Thank you for sending me something to try i'll let you know if it works in a few days.
@@king.coleman
@@stuman61 You may find my video on check valves helpful.
th-cam.com/video/RcYPxPHOyFA/w-d-xo.html
Is the aux burner generally less than the main burner?
Yes, the output of the auxiliary burner is significantly less than the primary.
@@king.coleman Thanks !
Oh I have yet another? I didn't catch the model of that stove because I have a 424 dual fuel stove that looks very much like that one I think the only difference is both burners look the same size on mine. I also have a 425B but can't make out the date on the tank when I got it the tank was painted red but after wire brushing it I saw that it was originally copper. All I know about the date was manufacturing dates were ranged from 1954- 1962 and I decided to do a complete restoration on it because of how old it can possibly be and the body is in great condition (no dents) unlike the body on the 424. The 424 has some rusted corners sadly but it still works great when I last fired it up a couple of weeks ago.
Would really like to see a repainting video if you ever get the time. How do you deal with rust on the metal hardware clasps that keep the stove closed? Would a Drexel wire wheel followed by a polishing wheel get it nice and shiny again?
I've got a few stove videos planned that will involve repainting, but they'll be older stoves. Hardware can be tricky when the nickel or chrome plating is flaking off. I just cleaned up an otherwise pristine 444A that had badly flaking hardware. I opted to leave it the way it was since there was very little rust involved. I usually rely on an electrolysis tank for stripping and derusting stoves. That'll remove the rust. You could use a wire wheel or wet-sanding to clean up the metal after removing the rust, but I don't think you'll ever make the bare steel shine again. On some of my first restorations I smoothed the hardware as best I could, then sprayed with silver paint. Some people like that look, but I'm not a big fan. I'd probably only do that these days if I felt the need to protect the steel from moisture. I store all my stoves in a dry, heated space so that's not a problem for me. If you've got a powder-coating setup, there are some really nice faux-chrome finishes available. If you went that route you'd also have to be able to rivet the hardware back onto the stove body. I've never gone that far on a project.
Hi. I restored my 413g works well but every so often there’s a loud pop. Sounds like a build up of fuel igniting. Any ideas how to resolve the problem? Cheers.
That's a tough one. Does anything accompany the noise? Does it flare up? Does the flame decrease? Does the flame retreat into the manifold when it pops?
@@king.coleman all Seems normal. There’s no flare up burners lovely and blue powerful flame. Then a very loud pop. Which is powerful enough to blow burner out. The pop is loud enough to give me a fright.
@@pauldeary I don't know. That's a new one to me.
Just bought a 431 ( 20.00 ) and washed it out with Brake Clean and then filled it with white gas ( 22.00/ liter ouch ). Works well and according to the Coleman forum I can run unleaded gas in it with the caveat of a bit more cleaning required. So as to the video , good to see, but I am wondering about the case as mine looks like it fell off a truck at speed and tumbled down a forest road. Internals are good, externals are bent.
You can burn gasoline. The models marketed as "dual fuel" have a somewhat beefier generator, I expect so that it can handle any additional carbon buildup that comes from burning pump gas. Some folks claim that modern additives in pump gas are dangerous to use for cooking, but if Coleman sells stoves that burn pump gas, it doesn't seem like that should be a problem. The problems I've found come when burning gasoline with ethanol added, so I buy premium unleaded from either Costco or Chevron, which the local stations have assured me is ethanol-free. I've never had an issue with it. I would only say to buy what you can use within a few months. Stale pump gas-more than 5-6 months old-will make a mess of your fuel system. And never store a lantern or stove with unleaded in it unless you know you'll be using it within a few months. As far as doing "body work" on your stove...you can if you have the skills. 431s are extremely common and usually cost very little, so it it were me, I wouldn't bother.
Here's question number two how would I clean and take the rust off the drip tray off a three-burner stove and paint it I have a Sears 3 burner stove that has a drip tray that has rust Gunk and it needs to be painted?
Oven cleaner is good at removing "gunk". I'd recommend electrolysis for rust removal, but if you don't have an e-tank you can always use steel wool and/or sandpaper depending on how bad the rust is. Even if I used an e-tank, I'd probably still do some sanding before painting. Paint with high-temp silver paint. Silver barbecue paint is okay in this case, as the drip tray doesn't get that hot. But if you're painting the burners, you'll need to go with the really high-temp stuff as the barbecue paint will quickly discolour and burn off the burners.
@@king.coleman Thank you so much! I will do like you said. Have a great day.
nice description and looks like when I restore my burners, steam engines. thank you for sharing ;-)
What if leather pump is done for. Is there a common replacement for older models?
Replacement leather pump cups are available. I'm not sure if Coleman still sells them, but you can get them from Old Coleman Parts (oldcolemanparts.com). Most stores that carry parts seem to stock the new style pump with a neoprene cup. They work fine, but the neoprene doesn't have nearly the longevity of leather. Unless you're working on a very early stove, like one from the 1920s, or one of the small backpacking stoves with a shorter pump length, the pump parts are interchangeable and any replacement, whether a new leather cup or a new pump assembly should work fine in any stove.
@@king.coleman Big thanks! I searched ereplacement and ebay a few months ago.. just want to save a fine product! 👍
Do u use Hunter green for repainting?
Sometimes, yes. It's a pretty good match for the stoves made in the Wichita factory from the mid-1940s on and for the Toronto-made stoves of the 50s and 60s. I have yet to find a good match for the 1930/1940s or 1970s/1980s Canadian green.
Hello and thanks for the very informative videos. New subscriber here. I'm refurbishing a coleman 426D three burner. I followed your procedures which were very helpful. I noticed at approximately 29-30 minutes into this video that you talk about not boiling the packing in the valve. I followed your suggestion and just let the valve (with packing and nut) soak in a cup with vinegar and boiling water. All went well, and the stove burns beautiful blue flames. The only problem I'm having now is that the main burner takes a very long time to completely turn off...(5 to 8 minutes). You mentioned that boiling the packing may damage it, but it should still work. Do you think a damaged packing may be causing my problem? If not, do you have any ideas what may be causing the extended shut off time?
Thanks again for great videos.
The packing doesn't have anything to do with the flow of fuel to the burner. The packing serves only to keep fuel from leaking out around the valve stem. 5-8 minutes does seem a little on the long side for the stove to fully burn out, but it's not unheard of, especially with a big 426 generator. There's quite a lot of fuel in the system when you turn off the valve and it will take a while for it to burn off. If there is a problem, it's likely with the valve stem seat. Either the tip of the stem or the seat in the valve body (or both) aren't quite smooth, have become grooved, or "dinged" by debris caught in it (they're made of soft brass), and could be allowing a very small amount of fuel to leak. A visual inspect may be in order. Both surfaces should be smooth. If the tip of the stem has a groove or some other defect, it can often be fixed using a buffing wheel or fine sandpaper. Another test--done with minimal fuel in the tank--is to slowly and carefully vent pressure from the fuel cap after closing the valve. If the stove then extinguishes itself in a significantly shorter period of time when there's no pressure in the tank, then you know the valve is leaking. Again, just be very cautious when venting the pressure and make sure you're not doing it with a full tank of gas.
@@king.coleman Thank you so much for the tips. I truly appreciate it.
Great video, thank you for your time
Any O rings in the valve?
If it's a Canadian Easi-Lite model, then yes, it will have two o-rings in the valve. Check out my video on Easi-Lite stoves for coverage of those models.
Long time no see. Glab that your doing well and uploading new content.
Hey great vid! I’ve been really enjoying your videos on repairing Coleman
Products.
What green and red paint color does Coleman use? I want to repaint my old 3 burner from the 60’s.
The red they used is was pretty consistent and I've found Rustoleum Banner Red to be a good match. Their greens were very inconsistent, especially in Canada. I typically use Rustoleum Hunter Green, but it depends on the stove. The lighter green used by the Toronto factory in the 70s and 80s is pretty much impossible to match short of a custom mix.
I have a 425D & 425E I need to refurbish & you certainly did a thorough job on this one...had to use ear buds to hear because the volume was so low, but it was very informative...great content...maybe I can catch you on tour with A Flock Of Seagulls...Lol! Just kidding...80s hair rocks...🖖🏿😎👍🏿
I had to do the same thing as far as wearing earbuds
Good to see ya! This video must’ve been filmed quite a long time ago, right? “If all you need to do is oil then pump cup, I made a video this week on how to do that.” Lol
Great knowledge old school hands on.
I just took the valve body out of an american 1950s, 425b i had to use torch to heat it up 😳 but i got her out 😎 great vid 😃
Obviously not great for backpacking,but great for canoeing. I bring a extra cylinder of gas in the stove. Use a msr gas cylinder or something the same. Fits in stove as well .
Great video Bill, thank you. I recently restored a 421-C that had never been taken apart prior, & noticed that the small burner was on the right (primary). The opening pre-teardown shots in your video, as well as Coleman's 421-C owner's manual confirm this is correct. In your video, when you reassembled the stove, you installed the large burner as the primary. This makes sense to me, as this is how the 431 is setup, & the primary is the main cooking burner. Any idea as to why Coleman did this? Looking at the original manuals for the 421 series, the location of the LARGE burner was as follows: 421 (right), 421-A (right), 421-B (left), 421-C (left), 421-D (left), 421-E (right). It almost seems like a mistake that they didn't catch for three models, but if you have any info on this I'd love to hear it. I'm tempted to just swap the burners on mine so the large one is the primary. Thanks again for posting this video, it was very helpful!
Thanks for the info on that. No, I don't have an answer for you as to why this was done.
That confuses the heck out of me as well because at the moment I'm restoring a 425B and have another stove that is a 424 which the burners on the 424 is almost identical and the burners are very noticeably different in size on the 425B.
@@king.colemanMaybe they were attempting to make the secondary capable of more equal power output as the main when both were in use? Then realizing that it really doesn't usually matter and you'd rather a big burner for boiling water and the secondary for cooking pancakes or something.
@@mikafoxx2717 I don't know. The size of the burner cups isn't going to make a difference in output and the auxiliary is always going to output fewer BTUs. I'm no physicist, but the only reason I can think of to have a larger cup on the auxiliary would be to allow the flame to spread out for greater distribution of its smaller output.
@@king.coleman Cool, I just thought more restriction of flow in the primary would let more flow to the secondary. Probably not enough to matter since in practice you probably want one hotter than the other anyways.
Right now I'm working on a 61 413F and a 79 426D.
That stove came out quite nicely. It's funny you specifically chose simple green because it's a weaker detergent. The reason completely makes sense. I usually avoid that stuff because it doesn't degrease very well for my automotive type needs hahaha
I'm trying to figure out why I can get good performance, but when I turn the gas off, it will stay on! That is: Burner running, turn clockwise to shut down, but it never shuts off. However, if I turn back counterclockwise from full stop, it will turn off at about two turns. So at full close, it is actually open a bit, and leaks gas. But at only partially closed, it actually closes. ...hard to try to explain... sorry.
Which model do you have?
@@king.coleman It is the Coleman 413g.
@@rvrnnr987 Thanks. That's got a traditional valve. The stem seats in the valve body when turned clockwise as far as it will go. If it's not shutting off when the valve is closed, there may be debris keeping the stem from seating fully or the stem or seat may be damaged and allowing fuel to leak past. Note, however, that it can take a few minutes for the flame to completely go out when the valve is shut. There's a fair bit of fuel vapour in the system. The bit about it shutting off when turned clockwise a couple of turns simply doesn't add up. Any clockwise rotation from the closed position will unseat the valve stem and open the valve. There's no way the valve is shut when you do that. The only thing that comes to mind is that there's some major carbon build-up on the cleaning needle and when the valve knob is in that position, the carbon build-up could be plugging the gas tip enough to cause the stove to go out. But that's different from being shut off. There's still liquid and vapour in the system and it will leak and could start a fire because the fuel supply isn't shut off at the valve.
@@king.coleman Thanks, is there a video that shows this broken down so that I can make sure I know what parts are being discussed? I think I understand what you are saying though.
@@rvrnnr987 Everything you need to know should be in the video.
These stoves are king. Use them as back country stoves or car camp. As a back country you have a little more to pack but great meals! You can batter them alot!
I guess the left just doesn't burn as strong as the right on most? I have the same issue. Maybe 70% of the right. Anybody have one that burns equal?
The auxiliary burner is never going to be as powerful as the primary, because the fuel reaching it will not be under the same pressure as the fuel reaching the primary. To get equal pressure to each burner you'd have to have a design with the generator feeding the centre of the manifold. Some of the old AGM, Albert Lea, and Prentiss Wabers are built that way, with the tank hanging off the end of the stove and the genny crossing the primary burner for heat, but entering the manifold more of less in the middle. th-cam.com/video/WldHDYuyfxU/w-d-xo.html
Love it….new subscriber eastern Ontario 🍻🇨🇦
I like your vidio but you really need a remote microphone and some way of cutting down the echo (reverberation).
It was one of my first videos. We learn as we go. I use a better microphone these days.
Educational
Canuk worried about the paint....just fire it up good enough to cook....
Some people just want a stove in working order and others are interested in a full restoration. For many of us the fun is in the process of restoring a heap of rust to its original glory.
I really like your TH-cams, but on my Mac, I can not hear you well. I have it turned up all the way. I can hear all other TH-cam Coleman folk but you. And I really want to hear you!
I'm new to this. Some of the earlier videos had a problem with low audio. The newer videos should be better.
25:00
You must not be the one paying the water bill.
I am, but seeing as we live in a rainforest, we've got unlimited water included in our property taxes.
@@king.colemanGotta love when the Hydro bill costs more than the water bill, and they aren't to be confused as the same thing..