DIY: Ignition Controlled Power Socket on a GM, Ford, or Chrysler
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ย. 2019
- This Description May Contain Affiliate Links. In this video, I show you how to create an ignition controlled 12-volt power socket on your American made car or truck. For more information about this video, click on the 💥 SHOW MORE 💥button.
Parts and Tools used in this video:
👉 12- Volt Tester light ------------------------- amzn.to/2Ndjccr
👉 16-Gauge Red Wire ------------------------- amzn.to/2P4X4Dl
👉 Fuse Jumper Kit ------------------------------ amzn.to/2pBpzhx
👉 Electrical Connector Kit ------------------ amzn.to/2P4kuJ0
👉 Connector Crimping Tool ---------------- amzn.to/2N3PNBh
👉 Colored Zip Ties ------------------------------ amzn.to/2JMC549
👉 Gerber MP600 Pro Multi-Plier --------- amzn.to/32yjelm
👉 Vantrue M1 Mirror Dash Cam --------- amzn.to/2pDXPc5
Connect with me on Social Media
📘 FaceBook: / thejungleexplorerofficial
🐦 Twitter: / thejungleexplo1
🤳 Instagram: / bbhttkyhzyo
🐟 Fishidy: www.fishidy.com/u/54c84b3766b...
🌐 Website: thejungleexplorer.com
----------------------------------------------------------
All of us that buy American made vehicles have faced this problem. American made automobiles from GM, Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, do not have ignition controlled 12V power ports. So, if you leave something plugged into your power socket on your car or truck, like a dashcam, it will continue to draw power even when the vehicle is not running. This may lead to a dead battery in the morning when you go to start your car.
This guide is to show you how to convert one of your car or trucks 12-volt power socket into an ignition controlled outlet that will turn on and off with your ignition so that you do not worry about leaving something plugged in and killing your car's battery.
The instructions in this video are for a Chevy Silverado Pickup, but this method will work on just about any American made automobile.
Step 1:
Locate a fuse in the engine compartment fuse box that is controlled by the ignition switch. This step may require two people to perform. Test each fuse separately using a 12-volt tester (see link above) while turning the ignition on and off to locate a 15 amp or above fuse that turns on and off with the ignition.
Step 2:
Using the appropriate fuse jumper (see link above), replace the existing fuse with the fuse jumper to create an additional power circuit.
Step 3: Using automotive-grade 16-gauge red wire (see link above) make a connection to the fuse jumper in the engine compartment fuse box and route the wire through the firewall to the interior of the vehicle to the existing 12V power socket you wish to convert to an ignition controlled.
Step 4: Test the existing 12V socket with the DC voltage tester light to determine which wire is the positive wire. Cut the positive wire with wire cutters leave a couple inches of wire to make the connection to the new ignition controlled wire lead from engine compartment.
Step 5: Using a wire stripping and a crimping tool (see link above), strip about 1/4 inch of the plastic insulation from the ends of both the wire from the existing 12V socket and the wire from the fuse box. Now connect the two with an in-line 16 gauge wire connector and crimp both ends with the crimping tool.
----------------------------------------------------------
Please Note: In the event that a product used in this video has been discontinued, the product link will be replaced with a comparable product from the same manufacturer if available.
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links
Thank you for visiting the jungle explorer channel. DISCLOSURE: This video and description contain Affiliate Links, which means that I may earn commissions through links you make purchases through.
DISCLAIMER: All information and actions covered in this video are our opinions and are for entertainment and informational purposes only. They are not intended to be viewed as professional or legal advice. If you choose to use or follow any of the information in this video, you do so at your own risk and agree that you are responsible for your own actions.
Thank you for visiting the jungle explorer channel. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks for visiting my channel and watching this video. If you enjoyed it, please punch the 👍 thumbs up button under the video. If you want to be notified when I release a new video, hit the SUBSCRIBE button and ding the BELL 🔔. Thanks for the support
Hey, just to let you know, you have to plug the fuse add-on in a certain way.......for instance, you have to make sure that the power side of the fuse is on the right side of the plug, or it will run the power through both fuses, untill it blows both fuses......in some instances, if you end up with a short, it will allow the power of both fuses combined before the fuse actually blows, and may result in burned or fried wires or other electronics that are also on the same fuse line......and i believe the power side on the fuse box is toward the rear......and it would normally be the same for the rest of the fuses on the fuse block
Thank you for the fuse jumper kit. Dealing with a 2006 Silverado 2500HD; both lighters are always on; installed a quick charge dual usb charger in place of the driver side lighter - with volt meter in bright red LED. ALWAYS ON! your video gave me the idea to switch both lighter socket hots to an ignition controlled fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Thank you for the step by step install.
Thank you for commenting Swagger Do! I am so glad the video was helpful.
I used this method to add an aftermarket radio in my 2013 Silverado WT. I used fuse #48 which is the Auxiliary Climate Control Compass Temp Mirror which my truck is not equipped with. The ignition control works perfectly, but I bypassed the entire 29bit LAN system which provides the safety chimes. The interface box I bought to preserve these glitched every couple weeks.
Thank you for this great information ljelley1. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
I have the same problem
..Great video man.👍
Some cars like my 06 commander have both type power outlets. Wondered why. Now I know. They only provided one for the 3rd row though, and I get reminded about that when I camp and would like a full time hot outlet back there.
Excellent video thanks a million.
My pleasure. Glad it helped.
Thanks for the video I figured this is how you would do it but confirmed what I was thinking
Thank you for commenting @qwertypoiuyt1! I am so glad the video was helpful.
Nicely told will do the opp to covert ignition based to always on
👍
Chrysler products have two different fuse sockets for the cigarette lighter. One is wired to the battery and the other is wired to the switch. All you have to do is move the fuse from one socket to the other.
Thank you for this great information Will Dwyer. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
Thanks dude!
You're welcome
Newer Chevy Silverado owner here. They now have 50a fuse that can be moved from the battery position to the RAP position. The RAP will kill power when turning off the ignition and exiting the truck.
That's good to hear.
I started to do this procedure until I found it hard to get past the firewall without a lot of fishing and hassle, your method is fine but I found an easier alternative with power supplied inside the cab. if you look below the dash behind the emergency brake pedal assy there is a black cover , pop the retainer out and remove the cover and you will see connections as well as exposed pins, some are hot all the time, others are hot with key on, I used a small red female spade connector to connect to a key on pin and just route my wire to my radio in my case, I first went through the in dash fuse panel cover then across to the radio. but i secured the wire and added a 15 amp inline fuse behind the fuse panel. as I said your method is fine with 2 small concerns, the fuse you used was a transmission power supply and I didnt want to risk robbing a little power from that circuit the others that are key activated are injector circuit A & B I also didn't want to tap into those circuits my way was mostly just quicker and easier aside going through all the other steps to find that out.
Glad you found a better way to do this. Thanks for sharing.
I saw a tip to try it WITHOUT the original fuse in the bottom slot and check if the tap has power. If not flip it around and check that it does. Otherwise you are running them both through the bottom fuse.
Thank you for this great information @AttorneyBCollins. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
Make sure to cap the live wire you cut with tape. If it touches anything metal it could pop a fuse or worse short voltage through ground to nearest electronic part like the radio, or just cause all kinds of trouble.
Thank you for this great information @Nathan-th4oj. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
Best way to do it is tap into the mirrors power plug if the vehicle is on star equipped. Need to lookup a plug diagram to find the ignition and ground. You just need a 12v to 5v converter to use for USB power. An added benefit is you can hide all the cables and hide the dash cam behind the mirror. No exposed wires from the drivers views.
Good information. Thanks
Did you do anything for the black wire?? otherwise awesome video thanks
You do not mess with the black wire, just the red one. The red wire is the positive wire and it is the one that supplies the power to the outlet.
Please help me I have a ford fiesta 2015 I have tried to get my brake lights to come on also my wipers stop also
For the stop lights, I would check for a blown fuse. If your wipers will not turn off, this would indicate a faulty wiper control switch. I am not familiar with your model of auto, but these would be what I would look at to start with.
I can't believe in the year 2021 we have to do this. Manufactures should have a better ways to connect devices and have a power connect up near the rear view mirror for dash cams.
I agree.
Thank you soo much!! I have the exact year and model Chevy. What did the 20 amp fuse inside the engine fuse panel go to to?
My pleasure. So glad it helped you out.
@@thejungleexplorer Do you happen to remember what that 20 amp fuse was going to?
Sorry man, I don't remember. I am not sure I ever look it up to see. In the morning I'll take a look and see if I can determine which one it is for you.
@@thejungleexplorer Thank you! I really appreciate the help. I left my Dashcam plugged in and killed my battery..lol. About the 3rd time I’ve killed my battery because of my radar detector or dash cam!!
So I looked at it and the fuse is #13 which is listed as "INJ-B (20A)". I took a picture of my injector box diagram to show you which fuse it is. Here is a link to the image: photos.app.goo.gl/RC6s3vfTHqrteME87
Found out that the 2014/18 have that option, I have the same as you what a shit it can’t be standard
Is there a way to connect the jumper to an ignition-controlled fuse port so that you do not have to run wires through the car?
Not on my truck, but it may be possible on other models.
@@thejungleexplorer I just found a video showing what I was thinking. Watch it and let me know what you think? It’s titled “Ignition switching 12v Aux (cigar lighter) sockets Focus Mk2 Dash Cam fix”
Sorry, don't have time right now to watch it. If it works for you, go with it. On my truck, I checked ever possible fuse in the cab, and none were ignition controlled. Yes, I know I could have tapped into a wire under the dash, but I prefer not to do that.
Merry Christmas to you and yours.
You should have capped off the hot wire, that you cut off. It will still have a small contact point, that could cause a short if touching a ground spot
👍
Check next hand brakes you go to box with a cover oh my God what you found accessory power work with the key
👍
Any problems with this setup since the install?
Not a single problem. Works perfectly
Great! One more question. What gauge wire did you use to make the connection from the fuse tap to the lighter? I’m thinking 18 but just wanted to verify. Thanks!
@@johnnyhannah8356 I used 14 gauge. It depends on how many amps of the fuse size you intend to use and the length of the run. Here is a chart to guide you on this: assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
@@thejungleexplorer Gotcha thanks for the info and the video!!!
You also could of gone from the fuse panel by dr. Door to jump to lighter but great job fella
Not on this vehicle
On my 2011 sulverado there is a fuse for the left cigarette plug in the fuse box under the hood. Just pull that fuse and run the wire from the fuse jumper to the unpowered side of the cigarette fuse. No need to run new wires though the firewall.
Thank you for commenting @zozo454! That's actually a good idea.
Do you remember what number fuse that was? I couldnt find it on my diagram.
Also wondering which fuse # you used for this. great idea thank you
Sorry for the delay in responding. Here is a little video I made to show you the fuse. th-cam.com/video/M_BnOwuXZtI/w-d-xo.html
Here is a video showing the fuse number and location. th-cam.com/video/M_BnOwuXZtI/w-d-xo.html
I HATE that I have to unplug my fm transmitter EVERY time I get out my car, so I only listen to my flash drive on trips at least 30 minutes 😢
Yeah that stinks.
Hopefully my comment posted - I don't see it. But, do not use a pre-existing ign. controlled fuse. The problem with doing this, is that amperage is shared between the now 2 or more devices connected to it. By doing it my way, you create a new fused circuit with a dedicated fuse allowing for 15 amps ( which is what you'll want to fuse it at, typically )... If you don't, you'll end up putting a light or something that draws a lot of current into it, then blow a fuse for IGN control, which could be another high amp usage item such as AC, or engine electric fans, or something like that ( although electric fans shouldn't be ignition controlled - they should be temperature controlled ).
Thank you for commenting Acecool!
You didn't test during the START cycle to make sure it turns off, properly, during the start cycle to prevent a brown-out on the electronics ( most dangerous thing for electronics is under-voltage rather than over voltage ).
Thank you for this great information Acecool. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
This has to be a widespread problem for most everyone that has a dash cam. Yet, I have to rely on a You Tube video to show me how to fix it, AND it's not a simple fix. In layman terms, this problem is bull shit because WE should not have to go throw all of this to fix a factory oversight, just to have a dash cam accessory to work properly. With that said, thanks for the video.
I totally agree. GM should have two outlets, one ignition controlled and the other constant. Problem solved.
May o ask are you a cop? Cause most of the time policeman, use dash cams, etc I was just curious.
LOL! No I am not a cop. I like to use dashcams because it captures unique footage sometimes, and if there is an accident, I can use it to prove that it was not my fault. I have captured many serious traffic violations by others and actual wrecks, even one case of road rage where a person was trying to wreck me. The footage was used to convicted them of aggravated assault with a vehicle.
Depending how that jumper is built - it may go through the 20 before the 15 which could mean a potential of 35amp going through the 20 if not installed the right way around. Make sure you test to see which is the first pin and make sure the jumper has its own and not that it takes a path from through the fuse before going to the other. It should be fine, because its very hard to screw it up... Also, you forgot to put a connector on the previous 12v wire to prefect accidental groundings which can fry a fuse in the best case - worst case start a fire before the fuse blows... Also, I would've used spade connectors in case you had to re-route something, or needed to remove the panel for another purpose... If using your method, I still recommend mine though.
Thank you for commenting Acecool!
You also didn't run the wire properly, another reason why I suggested the spade connector.
Thank you for this great information Acecool. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
That jumper technique should work, as long as the wiring going to the 20 amp fuse in the fuse box is rated for 35 amps total. Likely it isn't - again, why you should do it the way I recommend.
Thank you for commenting Acecool!
You can just take a dedicated line from your battery, with a fuse - preferably add the fuse in a spare slot in the fuse box -, then go in through the firewall with that line. Inside, you'll mount a relay and put that always on power line into the always on power part of the relay. Run a ground wire from the firewall, or other close-by grounding source to the ground spot on the relay. Next, find a wiring diagram and look at your ignition switch which should have 3, or more, wires... You'll have Ground, an ON position line and a START position line. You do not want to tap from START, as even the headlights will be OFF in the start-state because of varying currents, etc... You'll want to come in from the ON position and use that to trigger the relay. Then, have another ground, or the same ground and go to your 12v socket. And the power line is the relay triggered power out line.
Easy - simple, effective and what every car should have by default.
Thank you for all the comments. Comments really help promote this video and my channel. I appreciate you taking the time and energy to try to promote this video.
Why don’t you just make a video then?
Car manufacturers should put a switch to choose "ignition controlled" or "always on"
I agree 100%