Can I just say a massive thank you to you. From your videos, I have re-plastered a whole bathroom Inc ceilings AND microcemented the shower and floor based on your content, tips, resources, and guides on materials. AND I did a pretty decent job! Thank you for sharing all the finer details. Hats off to all plasterers as my hands and arms are dead!!! ❤
I’m sure you know as you get through half the roll of mesh it gets very springy, top tip, hose down the mesh and it takes the spring out of it, nice vid 👌
Here's a thin coat rubbing up tip for ya mate, when rubbing up, fill a gorilla tub half with water, and use two floats to rub up ( not at same time ). hang one on the side of the tub and use the other, Clean it every 10/15 secs and then use the other one that's been hanging on the side drying out, and repeat Ive always found if your float is constantly clean it glides without any drag.
In the summer time with warm air I recommend using a hopper gun as it will go elasticated quick by hand if doing a big area but it's ideal to apply in winter months by hand as it dontgo off quick
Have you checked if the small mesh you use on the joints is rated for outside use? Renders can be corrosive to the mesh. Thats why you use differnt mesh than for inside plaster. Just a little tip
Would you recommend corner bead with nose or without, i'm just about to order ewi. I guess rendering to a nose is alot easier but noseless the product goes right round the edge
Hi Blaine. Hope you're well my friend. Love the video! It was really informative. You give so much information out which i love. As a beginner i love to get even the tiniest of details. 'I'm not even sorry' haha love it!
Hi Tara, how’s it going?? Thanks for watching - really appreciate it as always and it’s great to hear that it’s helped. Hope your Plastering is going well - keep it up. You’re a pro 👍
Are these the STS no more ply boards? Asking because we had a failure with this stuff in the past for tiling and the manufacturer states they should be glued as well as screwed due to studs due to thermal expansion. They wouldn't warrant the job because we didn't glue it but it doesn't tell you unless you look at the spec online 👍
💯 % what my research has told me too. Haven't installed mine yet but have some STS megastrength polyurethane adhesive at the ready. Good of you to warn others. 👍
Hey fella, thank you for posting the video, seems like the ideal product for cement board! Just wanted to ask if you have ever tried floating and SPONGE FINISHING the Baumit Star Contact base coat ready for painting? Like you would normal rendering. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks pal..😊
Hi pal hope u well this is all I doo now rendering. Quick tip not that u need any always quality. When I'm laying on I put bout metre on. Then when scraping back use a Swiss trowel pal soo much easier. Google Swiss trowel quality for thin coat render.
Silicone based render used it for 20yrs so easy to use 👍👍 STO,KREND,EGLINGTON , I actually started on structherm with a macerend finish but after 20yrs id had enough of chasing ££££
@jamiec4108 I used to put 2 cups in sto and Wetherby top coat never used tc15 or I have and they've changed name lol you can tell when your towelling it on if it's too stiff and maybe add more water, we were advised on some topcoat to add methspirits instead of water. Adding water also depends on the humidity as well 👍
hi i am a plasterer who has always used low end trowels, i am looking for a better trowel that can be good for the smooth plaster that is applied before the grout. could you recommend the right trowel for me?
How would you manage to get a sharp finish on non-90 degree angle/corners? I have a conservatory project where ive blocked-up the walls and it's corners are 135 degrees. I'd like to board a section and render around the remaining windows with the rest being timber cladding.
Hi Blaine love your videos quality work as always I got my second silicone job to do in weeks time on new concrete blocks. Would you use 6mm beads or 3mm mesh beads that you used here thanks Barry
enjoyed that mate ,can this stuff be used on masonry /blocks etc? if not what would you recommend ,i hate working with traditional render materials ,cheers
Hi Blaine, I’ve recently subscribed to your channel, and I can’t believe how much I’ve learnt from you. Until this week I had never tried silicone and the Refina power float is a real game changer. One question I have however is I used Johnson’s render however I noticed you praising Webber OCR, which I might add is 30% cheaper, can I mix OCR base coat with Johnson’s top coat. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and expertise Pete
Aup mate. Thanks for the acknowledgement about the gap. It's all about picking things up from other people nobody knows everything. I always use like a 2ml window packer or something like that. But again mate your always there to pass knowledge on but also give credit to where you got it from. Gets you more respect than alot of these jonny I come up with everything tradesmen. 👍👍
Do you think you could lay on and float up a full gable end, with a double extension, and a single off that, on your own? If not, would two people do? Or more people again, as you’re working off different levels on the scaffolding? Love the videos fella.
Yeah mate. It’s nice stuff to use and it’s really quite fast. But it’s better with 2 people…it’s better that way. But 2 people can definitely do it pal 👍
Hi Blaine, thanks for the great tutorial. I am based in Cyprus and the weather is very hot, I am worried that doing it alone it will dry on me too quickly. Do you need to render a whole wall in one go to avoid connection lines?
Used silicone render thin coat system alot, I always water it down quite alot. Reason why yours is clumping is because your putting it on too thick. Widen your strokes to spread it really tight.. Also we don't use primer. Never had a problem on hundreds of jobs
I want to render the front of my house. I have pebble dash. Would you recommend stripping away the pebble dash, then use a fibreglass mesh and silicone render?
Hi Blaine, Very instructive video, thank you. I'm building a timber framed extension that I want to render - but I have no intention of doing it myself! So, I'm trying to find a local firm (I live in South Devon) that will do a pukka job using bespoke products - just as you've done here. Any pointers as to how I can find someone (assuming you're not local to me) would be really helpful. Cheers!
You should be putting the first coat on with a tiling toothed trowel and pushing the mesh in with the teeth before smoothing it off. One or two run's over with the 1200 speed skim works great.
Are you supposed to leave a vent at the top and bottom to allow airflow between the battens beneath the boards? I’m struggling to find the correct ones
Can those float tools be used after I patch up a few areas on an textured wall to get that same effect? Or does the compound make a difference? I just use Toupret masonry filler
you floated up the base coat? tell me more about this, are you still doing it that way, it seems alot of extra work, can i not just speedskim the basecoat/
Ive just had and i mean just was finished last Friday 6ft high brick wall built but its that bad I think I need to get it rendered as be to expensive to knock down and start again so whats best render to use over new bricks
Hi Blaine, thanks for another excellent and informative video. Keep them coming! Wonder if you can advise on a project we're planning. Our house is finished in Roughcast and we're having a small dormer window fitted and we'd like to do the front and cheeks in a similar finish. Obviously this would be a silicone based system onto render board but I cant seem to find much info on which system to use for the roughcast finish. Is that something you have any ideas on? Cheers.
I have a ragged bottom to my house where pebbledash has come away after digging out ground. What can i use to match the building, tried cement, it's too dark? any help is so needed and appreciated
Mate can you use this if temperatures drop to -6c at night? im in chamonix france for a week and have the opportunity to render a house here, im guessing it will be too cold but the weather is pure sun in the day and about 2c max in the day and -6c lowest at night, any advice would be very much appreciated! love your videos!
Great video again. We’re doing a project and need to render an old solid brick wall with no damp treatment. The render needs to breath and cover some pretty uneven old walls. Silicon render has been recommended to us but I’m just wondering how well it works at covering uneven surfaces? Have you any experience with it like that?
Hi..hope to use this shortly ..you put on two scratch coats..floated second scratch when dried apply sealer and then finish coat. Is that correct...thanks
@@sean550 normally the base coat is done in one hit and smoothed 6-10mm max, I do know plasterers that do a scratch coat followed by a tight final coat.
@@sean550 normally a sealer before the base coat then a primer before the final coat ( you get the primer mixed to the same colour as the finished coat)…. Good luck 👍
If the render needs to breathe personally I'd recommend a breathable render like vpi or along them lines that's you would use for a lime substrate.. Unless you batton it out etc... Just my 5 pence worth do with it as you will. 👍
Great content on Blaine’s page, you are a legend of the TH-cam plastering. Couple of things though not correct man, you can’t put the beads on with a grip they have to be embedded. You should use starcontact to do this. Also the plastering scrim won’t do anything, the gaps is good to allow for movement. Should of defo doubled up around the window stress points. Just a couple of things to do differently. Putting the finish on by hand alone though that’s great going haha. I wouldn’t man. All in all love your channel, I’m a advocate for educating people. Respect Joel
Thanks mate! I really appreciate that and thanks for the pointers. I did the extra mesh around the windows to be fair but stupidly didn’t film it. Thanks again for the tips and thanks for watching. Hope your channel is going well…keep it up Joel 👍👍
Hi could anyone tell me if k rend silicone in the bag is as good as silicone rend in the tub ? Does one look better than the other and age better, cheers
Never had a go ! But would like to try it ! Would it take a kid kicking a football at it ? 🤔 and how much a sq meter on materials ? I might convince a customer at some point just to have a go ! 😎👌 Nice work as usual Blain 👌
Another cracking video mate 👍🏻. I'm considering attempting a silicone render on my garden room I'm building atm. Original plan was to cedral clad it, but with the prices of the cladding going through the roof atm, I'm considering giving silicone render a first go. Done plenty of s&c but because its timber framed, plus it needs the fibre cement fire rating to keep BC happy as there involved, i thought i might give it a go. Have you only ever used this particular brand? I'm down South so I'll see if i can find this gear locally if you reckon its a good one to go with. I'll throw the sts boards up too like you. Solely because there easily available from Wickes lol
@@PlasteringForBeginners I'll give it a go mate. Always liked the look of silicones, just never tried them. Keep smashing out the top work and content 😎👍🏻
Top demo again mate u make it look easy but as we all know it ain’t but that said with ur vids it’s getting easier not in ur league though not by a long shot mate uve forgotten more about spreading than I know
Can I just say a massive thank you to you. From your videos, I have re-plastered a whole bathroom Inc ceilings AND microcemented the shower and floor based on your content, tips, resources, and guides on materials. AND I did a pretty decent job! Thank you for sharing all the finer details. Hats off to all plasterers as my hands and arms are dead!!! ❤
That’s amazing!! Well done - you should be proud!
A master in his trade. I would hire him without question for plastering. Keep up the great work
This guy’s lessons helped me plaster my flat from top to bottom. Good teacher and top plasterer
Great to hear that mate and thank you for watching! All the best 👍
I’m sure you know as you get through half the roll of mesh it gets very springy, top tip, hose down the mesh and it takes the spring out of it, nice vid 👌
Here's a thin coat rubbing up tip for ya mate,
when rubbing up, fill a gorilla tub half with water, and use two floats to rub up ( not at same time ). hang one on the side of the tub and use the other, Clean it every 10/15 secs and then use the other one that's been hanging on the side drying out, and repeat
Ive always found if your float is constantly clean it glides without any drag.
In the summer time with warm air I recommend using a hopper gun as it will go elasticated quick by hand if doing a big area but it's ideal to apply in winter months by hand as it dontgo off quick
Well explained mate, top video tells you everything 👍
Great Detail, Preparation is 🔑 to 1 Man Application, MacGyvering the Primer 😂🤣😂, Needs must, Top Channel 👏👏👏🖖
Have you checked if the small mesh you use on the joints is rated for outside use? Renders can be corrosive to the mesh. Thats why you use differnt mesh than for inside plaster. Just a little tip
Think you could you use webber adhesive render and then weber one coat as a finish ready for paint?
Top class buddy really really good it's the best video I've seen so far fair play
I use a product from EWI store, awesome product and great service. You do make it look easy and yes definitely need 2 people.!
Would you recommend corner bead with nose or without, i'm just about to order ewi. I guess rendering to a nose is alot easier but noseless the product goes right round the edge
@@CamberKitesurfing definitely a corner bead, you’ll find the material will go around the bead
@@overdrivehd4529 with or without the nose or doesn't it matter?
So true what you say about checking your stud work’s true - the last Workman always gets the blame!
Thanks so much for this video, what is the bead you are using at the bottom, im struggling to find a thin coat drip bead!
Nice to see Kell Brook has found work dubbing TH-cam videos
Im a Decorator, done bit dot and dab too. I wouldn't mind a go at that. Nice to see a quality trades man at work. Great job mate. 👍
Cheers mate!!
Nice job and you make it look so easy I love to give that a go.
Hi Blaine. Hope you're well my friend.
Love the video! It was really informative. You give so much information out which i love. As a beginner i love to get even the tiniest of details.
'I'm not even sorry' haha love it!
Hi Tara, how’s it going?? Thanks for watching - really appreciate it as always and it’s great to hear that it’s helped. Hope your Plastering is going well - keep it up. You’re a pro 👍
As of k rend recommendation to get the warranty and guarantee you should really hpx base cement board
Not seen that …hpx is normally used for spurious backgrounds where suction and adhesion is in question
What do you use at the bottom to allow for ventilation and to prevent rodents/insects. I can’t seem to find the right stuff anywhere!
Great job i think its a little similar to high build we used to use in the 80s
Cheers pal!!
Are these the STS no more ply boards? Asking because we had a failure with this stuff in the past for tiling and the manufacturer states they should be glued as well as screwed due to studs due to thermal expansion. They wouldn't warrant the job because we didn't glue it but it doesn't tell you unless you look at the spec online 👍
💯 % what my research has told me too. Haven't installed mine yet but have some STS megastrength polyurethane adhesive at the ready. Good of you to warn others. 👍
Great videos mate....got me out of a load of trouble👍👍👍
Great video and finish as always Blaine.
Thank you matey!!
Hey fella, thank you for posting the video, seems like the ideal product for cement board! Just wanted to ask if you have ever tried floating and SPONGE FINISHING the Baumit Star Contact base coat ready for painting? Like you would normal rendering. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks pal..😊
Hi pal hope u well this is all I doo now rendering.
Quick tip not that u need any always quality.
When I'm laying on I put bout metre on.
Then when scraping back use a Swiss trowel pal soo much easier.
Google Swiss trowel quality for thin coat render.
Nice vid mate. Thanks for sharing. I will give this system a go
Cheers pal!!
Johnstones silicone, use flexii to apply and scrap back is what i normally use
Sounds good to me!!
Another great video! Thanks
Silicone based render used it for 20yrs so easy to use 👍👍 STO,KREND,EGLINGTON , I actually started on structherm with a macerend finish but after 20yrs id had enough of chasing ££££
How much water did you add to the top coat when hand applying k rend tc-15?
@jamiec4108 I used to put 2 cups in sto and Wetherby top coat never used tc15 or I have and they've changed name lol you can tell when your towelling it on if it's too stiff and maybe add more water, we were advised on some topcoat to add methspirits instead of water. Adding water also depends on the humidity as well 👍
hi i am a plasterer who has always used low end trowels, i am looking for a better trowel that can be good for the smooth plaster that is applied before the grout. could you recommend the right trowel for me?
Hi, I've only used Johnstone's thin coat, you have to use their same colour primer, do you not need the same colour primer with this stuff?
Cheers
Would you say this is a better alternative to the thick polystyrene
insulation and the thin render (that is put on after it)? Thanks
Very neat great job
How would you manage to get a sharp finish on non-90 degree angle/corners? I have a conservatory project where ive blocked-up the walls and it's corners are 135 degrees. I'd like to board a section and render around the remaining windows with the rest being timber cladding.
Hi Blaine love your videos quality work as always
I got my second silicone job to do in weeks time on new concrete blocks. Would you use 6mm beads or 3mm mesh beads that you used here thanks Barry
Great vid thanks, do you have a link for the type of drip bead you have used?
enjoyed that mate ,can this stuff be used on masonry /blocks etc? if not what would you recommend ,i hate working with traditional render materials ,cheers
Hi Blaine,
I’ve recently subscribed to your channel, and I can’t believe how much I’ve learnt from you. Until this week I had never tried silicone and the Refina power float is a real game changer. One question I have however is I used Johnson’s render however I noticed you praising Webber OCR, which I might add is 30% cheaper, can I mix OCR base coat with Johnson’s top coat.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and expertise
Pete
Aup mate. Thanks for the acknowledgement about the gap. It's all about picking things up from other people nobody knows everything. I always use like a 2ml window packer or something like that. But again mate your always there to pass knowledge on but also give credit to where you got it from. Gets you more respect than alot of these jonny I come up with everything tradesmen. 👍👍
Them beads are horrible I hate them
Haha cheers mate! I’m always learning and I like to point out the people who provide the knowledge. Thanks again…you’re a legend 👍
Do you think you could lay on and float up a full gable end, with a double extension, and a single off that, on your own? If not, would two people do? Or more people again, as you’re working off different levels on the scaffolding? Love the videos fella.
Yeah mate. It’s nice stuff to use and it’s really quite fast. But it’s better with 2 people…it’s better that way. But 2 people can definitely do it pal 👍
Hi Blaine, thanks for the great tutorial. I am based in Cyprus and the weather is very hot, I am worried that doing it alone it will dry on me too quickly. Do you need to render a whole wall in one go to avoid connection lines?
Used silicone render thin coat system alot, I always water it down quite alot. Reason why yours is clumping is because your putting it on too thick. Widen your strokes to spread it really tight..
Also we don't use primer. Never had a problem on hundreds of jobs
I want to render the front of my house. I have pebble dash. Would you recommend stripping away the pebble dash, then use a fibreglass mesh and silicone render?
Try a Notch tiers trowel before putting the mesh it’s flater then just a tip and might be helpful
100% right two on the finish coat, keep it thin as, miles better than scratch back
Well done mate
Would like to see a video of how to go about rendering external wall insulation
Hi Blaine,
Very instructive video, thank you.
I'm building a timber framed extension that I want to render - but I have no intention of doing it myself! So, I'm trying to find a local firm (I live in South Devon) that will do a pukka job using bespoke products - just as you've done here. Any pointers as to how I can find someone (assuming you're not local to me) would be really helpful. Cheers!
Great gear we found 6l of water is the best to work with.
Nice one mate, but to be fair i love the k-rend system
You should be putting the first coat on with a tiling toothed trowel and pushing the mesh in with the teeth before smoothing it off. One or two run's over with the 1200 speed skim works great.
hello you have previously mentioned monocouche is not good. this is also silicone render. will the staining issue happen on this as well?
Are you supposed to leave a vent at the top and bottom to allow airflow between the battens beneath the boards? I’m struggling to find the correct ones
Can those float tools be used after I patch up a few areas on an textured wall to get that same effect? Or does the compound make a difference? I just use Toupret masonry filler
Great video very informal great job 👍🏻👌
Cheers pal!!
you floated up the base coat? tell me more about this, are you still doing it that way, it seems alot of extra work, can i not just speedskim the basecoat/
You are very with your skills and informative mate 👍
Thank you my friend 👍
Nice job, and some useful tips 👍.
Is there much difference to the cement board system and the EWI in terms of materials?
Ive just had and i mean just was finished last Friday 6ft high brick wall built but its that bad I think I need to get it rendered as be to expensive to knock down and start again so whats best render to use over new bricks
Would this work to smarten up some wooden raised beds in the garden?
Hi Blaine, thanks for another excellent and informative video. Keep them coming!
Wonder if you can advise on a project we're planning. Our house is finished in Roughcast and we're having a small dormer window fitted and we'd like to do the front and cheeks in a similar finish. Obviously this would be a silicone based system onto render board but I cant seem to find much info on which system to use for the roughcast finish. Is that something you have any ideas on?
Cheers.
Thanks for this.
What is the cost of materials per m2?
Quick newbie question: What does "float it" mean in this context? What's going on there and why?
Cracking job mate ! Where do you buy this product?
I have a ragged bottom to my house where pebbledash has come away after digging out ground. What can i use to match the building, tried cement, it's too dark? any help is so needed and appreciated
Mate can you use this if temperatures drop to -6c at night? im in chamonix france for a week and have the opportunity to render a house here, im guessing it will be too cold but the weather is pure sun in the day and about 2c max in the day and -6c lowest at night, any advice would be very much appreciated! love your videos!
Top tip it’s great for bathroom ceiling
👍👍
Excelente trabajo 👊 👏
Thanks mate!!
Would like to see your take on krend blane. That tackle us unforgiving
I’ve tried it once but never since mate. Is it tough to work with then??
Great video again. We’re doing a project and need to render an old solid brick wall with no damp treatment. The render needs to breath and cover some pretty uneven old walls. Silicon render has been recommended to us but I’m just wondering how well it works at covering uneven surfaces? Have you any experience with it like that?
Hi..hope to use this shortly ..you put on two scratch coats..floated second scratch when dried apply sealer and then finish coat. Is that correct...thanks
@@sean550 normally the base coat is done in one hit and smoothed 6-10mm max, I do know plasterers that do a scratch coat followed by a tight final coat.
@@nigelsmith1198 thanks..I assume the sealer goes on after scratch..
@@sean550 normally a sealer before the base coat then a primer before the final coat ( you get the primer mixed to the same colour as the finished coat)…. Good luck 👍
If the render needs to breathe personally I'd recommend a breathable render like vpi or along them lines that's you would use for a lime substrate..
Unless you batton it out etc...
Just my 5 pence worth do with it as you will. 👍
Hi Blaine, which brand of render and where stock it? Pleasure to watch you as always.
Just a quick 1 mate love ya vids can u silicone render over silicone render
can you use this product on a non timber frame and cement board (block work for example)? Brilliant video again.
You can mate - you just have to use a different base coat. I think you can use KZP for the base with brick work 👍
Do baumit guarantee the render if you use cheaper mesh and why dont you use the basecoat to stick the beads,
How long do you leave the thin coat before you can rub up ?
It's called sandcote in Australia and we put colour in it.
Hi Blaine, do you have the link for the soil pipe where you had the level , I think you were talking about the cut out .
I've used it for my shower wall but didn't use any primer between coats. Is this ok?
Where do I get the flexi Trowell from actually what is the Trowell you are finishing top coat with
I really want too give this a go, lovely finish. Is prb the same thing?
Great content on Blaine’s page, you are a legend of the TH-cam plastering.
Couple of things though not correct man, you can’t put the beads on with a grip they have to be embedded. You should use starcontact to do this. Also the plastering scrim won’t do anything, the gaps is good to allow for movement. Should of defo doubled up around the window stress points. Just a couple of things to do differently.
Putting the finish on by hand alone though that’s great going haha. I wouldn’t man.
All in all love your channel, I’m a advocate for educating people. Respect Joel
Thanks mate! I really appreciate that and thanks for the pointers. I did the extra mesh around the windows to be fair but stupidly didn’t film it.
Thanks again for the tips and thanks for watching. Hope your channel is going well…keep it up Joel 👍👍
Brilliant bud
Is the underside of the drip exposed?
Hello, are these renders ok for celcon block walls or would it be best to board wall first
Hi Blaine, I have a new block garden wall I want to render would I use a silicone render on that? Cheers! Great video again 👍🏻
Would it be ok to use other sealers such as Uni bond or SBS
Hi could anyone tell me if k rend silicone in the bag is as good as silicone rend in the tub ? Does one look better than the other and age better, cheers
Nice job mate
Cheers mate!! Hope you’re well my friend 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners yeah mate steady work coming in
Good man!
Beautiful
Thanks pal!!
Do you have to wait for first coat to dry before second coat? Also what's the name of the product you use?
Hi there, Blaine. Great work! Do you usually apply 2 coats of the base coat?
Thank you.
You don’t have to…as long as the mesh is well bedded, walls are flat and the beads are covered then you’re all good.
What is called that materials you applying before mesh is it sand and cement or something ready to mixed ? Thank you
Never had a go ! But would like to try it ! Would it take a kid kicking a football at it ? 🤔 and how much a sq meter on materials ? I might convince a customer at some point just to have a go ! 😎👌 Nice work as usual Blain 👌
Specifications for cement board is hpx base
How do you make the edge from render to brick on the same wall?
Another cracking video mate 👍🏻. I'm considering attempting a silicone render on my garden room I'm building atm. Original plan was to cedral clad it, but with the prices of the cladding going through the roof atm, I'm considering giving silicone render a first go. Done plenty of s&c but because its timber framed, plus it needs the fibre cement fire rating to keep BC happy as there involved, i thought i might give it a go. Have you only ever used this particular brand? I'm down South so I'll see if i can find this gear locally if you reckon its a good one to go with. I'll throw the sts boards up too like you. Solely because there easily available from Wickes lol
Thanks mate. And if you’ve done sand cement then this will be child’s play pal ha! It’s very nice to work so I’d give it a go. I think you’d like it 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners I'll give it a go mate. Always liked the look of silicones, just never tried them. Keep smashing out the top work and content 😎👍🏻
Good luck my friend and thanks for watching!
Nice video as always, very good content. Is this the coloured render like Weber?
Cheers pal. And no, K-Rend is a Monocouche render system…totally different but still very popular. Hope this helps and thanks for watching 👍
Sorry if i've missed it but what is the name of the top coat?
Top demo again mate u make it look easy but as we all know it ain’t but that said with ur vids it’s getting easier not in ur league though not by a long shot mate uve forgotten more about spreading than I know
Thank you mate. I really appreciate that. And I’m still learning all the time - I’m not there yet ha!
How does this silicone methode compare to K render??