Yo, just wanted to say forget what these people are sayin about not using the right name for everything, these vids are super helpful and you clearly know what youre doing. If someone doesnt understand this then they shouldnt be pulling an engine like this apart anyway! Peace
So True. Folks get knee deep into stuff they are way outta their league in and then wanna blame someone else for them NOT following along and having a PROPER MANUAL to assist. IF you endeavor to do this you SHOULD be taking LOADS of pics yourself for every part you remove. I build a bolt template outta cardboard for just those different type longer vs shorts screws. That will save your ass just at the right time, cause I learned the hard way the first time......ugh.
They sold many and it ran for a long time because they are great bikes people bought both 600 and 750,those engines are robust and should not need much for many miles.
I know you are probably tired of me asking you a million questions😂 you are the only help on TH-cam that has been correct about everything!! I have 2 questions!! Are the bolts that came out of the oil pan the only ones holding it on?? And do I have to remove anything before I can take the oil pan off
All the bolts for the oil pan are the 8mm ones. (Pretty sure it’s 8mm) Theirs 1 hidden one in the front center part of the oil pan but once you get them all it comes off pretty easy. Technically the 2 hoses also need to be detached that feed the oil cooler but I don’t always bother with those when removing the pan.
Hi, i got a question. I have a GSX600F from 1996. The thing is: dirt has fallen into the intake, into the Cilinders. the lucky part is that the engine has not run since then or moved in the time. The plan is to remove the head and clean everything out. If needed, also removing the mid section of the engine carefully. I know i have to replace all the Gaskets. But is it necessary also to replace the Studs Bolt of the engine? or can I leave them in place and reuse them afterwards, re-torque the head etc. And running without a problem?. The engine has 37.000 kilometers on it.
I can’t say anything for certain. You’re technically supposed to replace them after splitting the engine like this to avoid them snapping. When they heat up and cool down from use, they slowly weaken and torquing them to spec can snap them. However, you can probably reuse them without snapping them as long as you don’t over torque them or reassemble the engine repeatedly. I ended up snapping a few of mine since I took apart my engine so many times but under normal circumstances you should be fine. I can’t remember for certain but I believe Suzuki doesn’t make these anymore and I think I ended up getting some used ones on eBay to replace the ones I had that broke. Definitely replace the gaskets and o-rings on the oil tubes up front though. Add a TON of gasket maker around those o-rings too. Katanas are famous for leaking there even with new o-rings. Also be very careful when tightening anything on the engine as spec might be too tight now. Also look at my spark plug maintenance video where I show the location of the water drain hole on the cylinder head as it’s always clogged and now is the time to unclog it. Considering the year of your bike a coil relay should also be beneficial since your wires are super old now.
You don’t have to. You can lower the engine from underneath the bike fully assembled. The last time I did this I put the engine on a stand and lifted the bikes frame upwards with a come along/wench attached to the ceiling.
Do you have any videos on older carbs? I got a 89 600 aswell and the carbs are way more compleat on that bike than the 91 so I was gonna steal um for the 91 but can’t find anything useful
Sorry, I do not. Just have videos on this bike. I believe the 89-98 should have the same carbs but the 600 is a little different. There are also a few odd variations to them such as the California model.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 yeah I started figuring most the things out got confused on it being a dual outlet petcock when most all outhers are a single so that was one of my big things that confused me a big bit think I got that figured out now luckily, and one more question if you got a second, so where my throttle cable screws onto my carb that mount is compleatly blown out, any ideas on fixing it or at least just making it work without having to get a new #3 carb and re sinking all of um and all that
@@jakobrandolph3126 I really should make a video about this. I had the same issue right when I got my bike and had to fabricate a part for it to function. I think I showed it in my carb video actually. Just checked and it’s at 2:21 in it
Hello. Great video, that should be really helpful for a lot of people! I wonder if you can help me though? I have been having issues with the flasher relay after I changed the turn signals. Where is the relay located, and what do I need to do to get my turn signals working again? The bulbs are 10v 12w, but I bought 10v 23w to put instead. I hope you can help me figure this out.
Have you checked the fuses yet? It’s a common problem for aftermarket signals to flash faster than the original but it seems yours isn’t working at all. Can you check if volts are getting to the flasher wires? Also the best way I can explain how to find the relay is to google what the part looks like.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Okay thank you for reply! I did check the fuses and they all seem perfectly fine. I did try google, but its giving me nothing but the picture of part for itself, and not located on the bike.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 okay found it. I checked again and it was indeed a broken fuse. I changed it, and for a minute or two had the flashers working but only with a constant light. Then it stopped again as well as the headlight. Fuse still intact though. Can I put resistors between each light to counter the problem?
@@cigarfar1 I haven’t done this before but I have heard of this working with other people. If the original pair still works properly I’m confident this will fix your issue.
So once the head is off that nut in front is the only thing holding pressure to the cylinder? Im trying to just replace my oil pipe o rings and headgasket but i bought the base gasket aswell just didnt want to take the cylinder off if i dont have to
It’s possible you’ll have a leak if you don’t replace that gasket as well but I can’t say that for certain. However, in this video I used grease around the o-rings since the manual says to do so. However, mine and plenty of others had leaks from new o-rings after doing so. I recommend you use a ton of gasket maker all around the o-rings and pipes to avoid any leaks.
@@joshsaich9159 I had never until this point either. Suzuki didn’t do a good job with fitment for this part so it’s standard for katanas to leak there. For me it hasn’t leaked since.
I’m not sure but I know how to find out. Go to suzukipartshouse.com, plug in your bike, find the alternator in the parts diagram and it’s part number. After you have the part number you can plug in different bikes on the website and check if they have the same part number.
Question about the alternator.. I’m having to get another alternator or get the one I got rebuilt. I have a 98 750 I can’t find one for the 98 they have them for the 600. Are they the same?
I’m not sure. However, when I’m curious about part comparability I first find the part number and compare it to the part number of the year I’m curious about. Use suzukipartshouse.com for this
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Partzilla and bike barn have parts diagrams too. Some of them ONLY show the Gixxer for these years and I THINK the alternators are identical for both 600/750. Carb jets ARE different though.
Where is the alternator voltage regulator located. My battery is not staying charged even when I ride for about 20 minutes come back cut it off it want crank my signal lights and headlight blink when I turn the signal on also. Do I have to buy an whole alternator or just the regulator
Hello, i have a katana 600, it was running on 2 cilinders, when i checked the compression using the manuel. I’ve red 4 bar on each cilinder. Im working to get the head removed to check the head and the pistons, what do you think??
It sounds to me like you might be making a small problem into a big problem. When you are running on 2 cylinders you check for 3 things. Air, fuel, & spark. Are you sure your carbs are working right? what about the petcock? or the spark plugs? If you have equal compression on each cylinder why are you removing the cylinder head? If 2 work, the others should as well under the same conditions. Its important to note that most sub $100 compression testers like Ebay and amazon ones are so inaccurate you might as well not use them. Guarantee that the cylinders are getting the correct amount of gas, air, and spark and then consider removing the cylinder head.
I found them on ebay a long time ago. I wish I could remember the part number but instead look up your year and model and the appropriate tool part number for it. generally buying them new is incredibly expensive and ebay is the cheepest and best since the tools dont normally break.
Normally I would recommend a parts diagram but I just looked at it and it won’t be very helpful. I don’t have access to my bike for a while so I recommend you join the Facebook group “Suzuki GSX-F Katana” and ask someone there to post a picture for you. Lots of very helpful people on that forum that are very knowledgeable about working on this bike.
Unfortunately I don't have any tips but you are not alone. That is always insanely hard. You don't have to drop the engine but it always looks like it won't fit. I've spent hours removing it and sometimes I've been able to pull it first try. Good luck and I feel your pain. One tip I can recommend is restart the process of lifting it out a lot to get the correct angle eventually.
Hello i have have a cuestion i burning many times the spark plugs i think is the foul of the oil i have consumed more then 1 liter oil. Is motul 10W40 7100 the wright size what type of oil do you use Ore is this a fould of the engine my bike have 45000 km
Whenever a bike is burning oil you have a big problem. Its hard to say why your burning oil but using 10w40 is the correct oil. I would try a compression test first to see the condition of the engine.
Great videos, I replaced the oil seal on the gear shifter and the o ring on the neutral signal and when I put everything back together it won't shift. I have to jiggle the shifter to get it into neutral. It will go into first but won't shift to 2nd 3rd so on. How much of a tare down do I need to do to see the problem? Thx ... 96 suzuki katana 750
It’s hard to say with out more info. When the bike is running and moving do you have the same problem? Are you sure your clutch is adjusted properly? (Mainly the screw on the engine) Have you ever split the crank case? How many miles does your bike have? Any shifting problems in the past?
It was shifting fine when I took it apart . As far as riding it I've only tried to move forward in 1st gear and then tried to shift but it seems locked up
@@anthonybar7499 it’s very unlikely your transmission has any problems. I’d say it’s most likely your clutch isn’t adjusted right or the shifter isn’t on properly.
Question. I just got a 1995 750. The clutch was replaced, but the cable wouldn't move. Cable isn't seized. So my question is, the bike will shift down to first and neutral but it will not shift up from 2nd to 6th. Someone told me that there's a chance the clutch exploded and left a chunk of the fiber stuck somewhere preventing the shift. Is this true? Can I see the shift forks if I remove the oil pan?
I think that’s possible but I would start by removing the push rod and checking if it’s bent. It’s possible the shifting has been done too hard and simply bent it. You won’t be able to see enough if you only remove the oil pan.
@@MD-tg1iz you do not. Follow where the clutch cable goes and you’ll see it attaches to a mechanism that turns. As it turns, it pushes the push rod in, engaging the clutch.
It’s very easy. I’ll be replacing mine pretty soon too. Cheapest way to do it is cut out a new gasket from a gasket sheet. Easiest way is to just buy a precut one.
Thank you, I got a new gasket from partszilla..my oil drain plug leaks,even after replacing a new olug and gasket..should I stick with 10w40 or can you run a thicker oil? I live in Arizona.. where are you from?
@@flexmarchetti use 10w40 specifically made for motorcycles. Otherwise you can ruin your clutch pack. You might be able to use something a bit thicker but I wouldn’t bother.
@@flexmarchetti I’m not a trained mechanic or anything like that so this bike has been what I’ve used to teach myself everything I can. Just 2-3 weeks ago I honed cylinders for the first time with great success so I’m still learning new things. I also have a decommissioned dodge charger cop car as a project car as I like working on vehicles in general.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Why would you bother to even say that? Buy a new damn gasket you cheap fu*ks. Stop trying to pinch pennies when you do not need to. You NEED to get everything back together PROPERLY and saving old gaskets is a sure way to have to RE-DO the sheet you just did. Don't be an egghead, work SMART not HARD.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 IMHO it is ALWAYS necessary. That lil $20-200 part may cost you DAYS of labor when using super glue sheet.........I know there are a few places around front and back oil seals that require it due to the tiny spaces it covers on Engines (built a few in my day), but My Pappy always insisted on NEW GASKETS and he showed me many times how that stuff fails that you used. Pennies vs headaches? I'll spend the pennies thanks.
So what spec DO you set the pushrod to for the clutch? Mine said the same thing, I did it like 5 times and though was wondering WTF happened, I think I burnt my clutch because of it anyway and 2nd gear, or the shift fork is messed up (probably both) so I'm replacing that but I don't wanna burn out the service manual says for pushrod spec
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 AMSOIL 10W-40 or Mobil1 specifically MOTORCYCLE OIL, NOT AUTO OIL........due to wet clutch requirements cannot adapt to friction modifiers that will cause you to GO BACK IN AND REPLACE YOUR CLUTCH PLATES........Friction Modifiers Wreck the surfaces of the clutch plates by embedding into them which will make them NOT FUNCTION properly, Hence, you WILL have to rip it back apart for new clutch plate install.........TRUST ME !!! Do not Do what I did...........YIKES.
I’ve done this before too but with its weight, I don’t like to drop the whole thing at once if I don’t have to. If I’m going to be removing the cylinders, might as well lighten the engine before dropping it. Last time I had the engine sitting on a jack and lifted the bikes frame to the ceiling with a come along.
Idk if this helps but I got my manual off www.emanualonline.com/ comes as a pdf that you can print what you need or just read off your device of choice
I don't have my book with me unfortunately but if my memories right, the absolute minimum you want to have is about 120 and the maximum is 210. I came into a problem a while back after I rebuilt the engine and my gauge was reading in the 70s and lower. However, I later realized that my gauge was just garbage. You cannot cheep out when it comes to a compression tester. Another aspect you'll want to consider is how close the compression is in all of them. If they are too inconsistent, you'll have problems.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Well the problem I have is that it only turns on 3 cylinders, the number 4 seems to not get gasoline, I take out the spark plug and it has no gasoline or oil
@@hbmotors4715 instagram? I'm not sure what your saying but its normal for a bike to not operate perfectly when warming up. This is why choke exists as you need to add additional gas to the mix when its cold for it to start easier. After it heats up, you disengage the choke and let the bike operate with your correctly tuned fuel air mix.
I would recommend changing sprockets for your chain instead. Suzuki katanas aren’t worth upgrading to that degree. Theirs little tricks people do like use the British timing rotor gear signal generator to make it spark a little early. But overall it’s not a bike you can get that much power out of compared to modern bikes.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I got my gearing setup for faster acceleration on start up how can I set it up to get more acceleration on down the road not the start. Would I put less teeth on the rear sprocket an more on the front
@@ncgoon336 I’ve heard of you lower the front sprocket teeth count you ware you chain out much quicker. However, if you change the rear sprocket to 4 additional teeth you’ll notice faster acceleration with a slightly slower maximum speed and higher cruising rpm. For additional power like that I’ve heard of people changing jets, needles and air filters.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 really great videos I love when people keep the Old sport bikes alive. I have 1994 katana I've had since 1996. Hasn't been rode in 8 or 9 years. I'm getting it back on the road
I like the videos I have a 05 katana 600 I'm learning on myself but it would help if you'd name alot of those parts instead of saying "remove this" "remove that"
I get that a lot. If you don't know the name of a part I recommend you go to suzukipartshouse.com and check out their parts diagrams. In my future videos I'll be stating the names of parts but for this one in particular just making the video was exhausting.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I think the boyz do not get that part of it and dude YOU FU*KIN ROCK for helping out the Katana World. I appreciate you a LOT my bruh.
Haynes makes manuals you can download online or order as a book. You can find them in a lot of places online but I recommend you join the Suzuki Katana group forum on Facebook. They have all the manuals available there along with a lot of other helpful info.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 great!! Thanks!! Would you have a link or something?? I'm in Mexico and the principal suggestions I see there arre from my country... Unfortunately 🥴
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 should be good I've done took apart carb cleaned put back together then I even changed the disks in my cluch n yeah one day I was riding back home n I started losing power like I would hit the gas in 6th gear n tires would not move
Hello i really need some help please someone who knows Ive got a 2002 600cc after a carb clean the bike runned well and would hold idle nice and after an hour driving the bike lost power and start running on 3 cylinders it would stay on only with throttle and whenever pulled the choke died straight away Ps. When i put the carbs back ive put 4 new ngk spark plugs aswell
Is it possible you messed up the fuel air mix when reinstalling it? You first need to diagnose the issue. Check spark plugs. Each will indicate exactly what went wrong in each carb. I suspect you are suddenly running rich in all carbs and extremely rich in another. Watch my carb video too. You’d benefit from understanding the important of float height, bench syncing, etc.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Bench Sync'ing means setting all the Hard Tabs to the same length's during re-assembly. I thought it was something else when I did mine and watched more than 1 video to find exactly what that meant. Thanks for your Carb video. It really helped me too. I have to still do a drop idle test and fine tuning air/fuel mixture. F.I. is so much easier...........Starting to HATE carb's a lot more now... :)
Dude if you can’t name the tools or the parts you are removing I’ve been a mechanic for years but I don’t know anything about motorcycle engines but I know you know what you are doing but a person that doesn’t have experience in braking down a motor because each part you take off have 3 or 4 or 6 screws so without correct organizational skills man I can get lost though you are a good mechanic people can’t read your mind give more details and do skip part of the process I’m just trying to help
I'm currently making and engine reassembly video. I've finished reshooting but It's so long that I haven't finished it yet. I didn't film every one of the organizational ones though and I have to add subtitles of additional specifics. I hope ill have it out soon.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 This is WHY I said PHOTO'S PHOTO'S PHOTO'S MAN. And build a cardboard Template for common area's due to differing lengths on the screws. Even that shifter cover plate has 2 longer screws that I damn well know I woulda got wrong if I had not done that. MARK EVERYTHING in the groupings of area's too. Even Masking Tape tags are better than guessing.
@@anonimous2451 I’ve used cardboard cut outs like your describing but normally I just put the screws in without threading them in first and you can tell which goes where by seeing how much space the screw has left to thread in. If their is a ton of screw left or too little your putting it in the wrong spot. They should all have about the same amount of space to thread in.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Good Tip, Habits are hard to break and that is my habit. Not condemning anyone that does it differently just adding a lil suggestion for those out there which may find value in it.
When you rebuild it properly you can get the compression like new and when dropping in a used engine you never know what your getting until you test it. Other than compression their could also be additional problems with replacement used engines. This way I can personally verify that the engine will continue to run for a very long time by inspecting everything. $250 also sounds incredibly low of a price for an engine especially once you add on shipping.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 All valid points i guess im just not that mechanically inclined lol... got a banshee with a 04 750cc katana anytime it stops working right just drop another engine in it usually for around $400 give or take 94-00-01-04. I suppose if ide fix them probably still be on the 94 lol
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 mabey you can help with my current problem before I buy another engine lol... Last time I took it out thought I blew the gears or something and trailerd it home... few days later I unload it start it up and its wanting to take off.. drove around the yard and it started makeing a grinding noise and lost my gears again 😑... don't know shit but sounded BAD. You have any idea what that would be? Can pick up a 01 900cc ninja for $400 gonna jamm that in it if I can't figure this out asap...
@@nunyabis9021 the symptoms you are describing are very serious and and making the engine run will only damage it further. It sounds like your transmission may be out of spec along with the forks. You could also have a poorly shimmed transmission or are just shifting way too hard damaging the transmission and forks. You'll have to split the crank case which can be a huge pain.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Thank man you are very knowledgeable mechanic. I greatly appreciate you taking your time to help. And on that note I'm likely gonna get another motor lol use this one for parts if possible... As I said "im not that mechanicly inclined" lol. Mabey once I pick up another ill crack it open and see what I can do... use it to learn something. Thanks again.
Lol. I got this bike to learn how to fix motorcycles and engines in general. Not really a suzuki fan as much as interested in the mechanical side. Since I learned so much from this bike and about it, I turned to helping other people with it.
@@dylaninindy You don't have to but I did since it becomes lighter and easier. If you need to pull the engine itself, just remove the big metal bracket under it, the 2 main engine mounting bolts, and all the wires connected to it. I also used a come along and a big bar a few feet above the bike to lift the entire bike out of the engine.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 hey, thanks for all the material, your videos as incredibly helpful. I want to split the crankcase to check my transmission, can you confirm this is possible? So I don’t have to do all that other work. Essentially, after removing the engine, I’ll flip it upside down and split case after removing the oil pan.
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Yo, just wanted to say forget what these people are sayin about not using the right name for everything, these vids are super helpful and you clearly know what youre doing. If someone doesnt understand this then they shouldnt be pulling an engine like this apart anyway! Peace
So True. Folks get knee deep into stuff they are way outta their league in and then wanna blame someone else for them NOT following along and having a PROPER MANUAL to assist. IF you endeavor to do this you SHOULD be taking LOADS of pics yourself for every part you remove. I build a bolt template outta cardboard for just those different type longer vs shorts screws. That will save your ass just at the right time, cause I learned the hard way the first time......ugh.
They sold many and it ran for a long time because they are great bikes people bought both 600 and 750,those engines are robust and should not need much for many miles.
They're next to impossible to rebuild the
Shits crazy helpful I appreciate you making these videos just bought a 91 and it’s so hard to find anything anywhere
I know you are probably tired of me asking you a million questions😂 you are the only help on TH-cam that has been correct about everything!! I have 2 questions!! Are the bolts that came out of the oil pan the only ones holding it on?? And do I have to remove anything before I can take the oil pan off
All the bolts for the oil pan are the 8mm ones. (Pretty sure it’s 8mm) Theirs 1 hidden one in the front center part of the oil pan but once you get them all it comes off pretty easy. Technically the 2 hoses also need to be detached that feed the oil cooler but I don’t always bother with those when removing the pan.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thank you bro
Hi, i got a question. I have a GSX600F from 1996. The thing is: dirt has fallen into the intake, into the Cilinders. the lucky part is that the engine has not run since then or moved in the time. The plan is to remove the head and clean everything out. If needed, also removing the mid section of the engine carefully. I know i have to replace all the Gaskets. But is it necessary also to replace the Studs Bolt of the engine? or can I leave them in place and reuse them afterwards, re-torque the head etc. And running without a problem?. The engine has 37.000 kilometers on it.
I can’t say anything for certain. You’re technically supposed to replace them after splitting the engine like this to avoid them snapping. When they heat up and cool down from use, they slowly weaken and torquing them to spec can snap them. However, you can probably reuse them without snapping them as long as you don’t over torque them or reassemble the engine repeatedly. I ended up snapping a few of mine since I took apart my engine so many times but under normal circumstances you should be fine. I can’t remember for certain but I believe Suzuki doesn’t make these anymore and I think I ended up getting some used ones on eBay to replace the ones I had that broke. Definitely replace the gaskets and o-rings on the oil tubes up front though. Add a TON of gasket maker around those o-rings too. Katanas are famous for leaking there even with new o-rings. Also be very careful when tightening anything on the engine as spec might be too tight now. Also look at my spark plug maintenance video where I show the location of the water drain hole on the cylinder head as it’s always clogged and now is the time to unclog it. Considering the year of your bike a coil relay should also be beneficial since your wires are super old now.
Hey bro thanks for great tutorial, i was just wondering if i have to remove head and clutches etc if i just want the engine out?
You don’t have to. You can lower the engine from underneath the bike fully assembled. The last time I did this I put the engine on a stand and lifted the bikes frame upwards with a come along/wench attached to the ceiling.
Thanks for advice and great tutorials, today i've cleaned carburetors thanks to your video and for summer this engine will land in go kart :)
Do you have any videos on older carbs? I got a 89 600 aswell and the carbs are way more compleat on that bike than the 91 so I was gonna steal um for the 91 but can’t find anything useful
Sorry, I do not. Just have videos on this bike. I believe the 89-98 should have the same carbs but the 600 is a little different. There are also a few odd variations to them such as the California model.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 yeah I started figuring most the things out got confused on it being a dual outlet petcock when most all outhers are a single so that was one of my big things that confused me a big bit think I got that figured out now luckily, and one more question if you got a second, so where my throttle cable screws onto my carb that mount is compleatly blown out, any ideas on fixing it or at least just making it work without having to get a new #3 carb and re sinking all of um and all that
@@jakobrandolph3126 I really should make a video about this. I had the same issue right when I got my bike and had to fabricate a part for it to function. I think I showed it in my carb video actually.
Just checked and it’s at 2:21 in it
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 perfect thank you so much, your a huge help
Hello. Great video, that should be really helpful for a lot of people! I wonder if you can help me though? I have been having issues with the flasher relay after I changed the turn signals. Where is the relay located, and what do I need to do to get my turn signals working again? The bulbs are 10v 12w, but I bought 10v 23w to put instead. I hope you can help me figure this out.
Have you checked the fuses yet? It’s a common problem for aftermarket signals to flash faster than the original but it seems yours isn’t working at all. Can you check if volts are getting to the flasher wires? Also the best way I can explain how to find the relay is to google what the part looks like.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Okay thank you for reply! I did check the fuses and they all seem perfectly fine. I did try google, but its giving me nothing but the picture of part for itself, and not located on the bike.
@@cigarfar1 It should be under the airbox next to the battery with the rest of the electrical parts.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 okay found it. I checked again and it was indeed a broken fuse. I changed it, and for a minute or two had the flashers working but only with a constant light. Then it stopped again as well as the headlight. Fuse still intact though. Can I put resistors between each light to counter the problem?
@@cigarfar1 I haven’t done this before but I have heard of this working with other people. If the original pair still works properly I’m confident this will fix your issue.
So once the head is off that nut in front is the only thing holding pressure to the cylinder? Im trying to just replace my oil pipe o rings and headgasket but i bought the base gasket aswell just didnt want to take the cylinder off if i dont have to
It’s possible you’ll have a leak if you don’t replace that gasket as well but I can’t say that for certain. However, in this video I used grease around the o-rings since the manual says to do so. However, mine and plenty of others had leaks from new o-rings after doing so. I recommend you use a ton of gasket maker all around the o-rings and pipes to avoid any leaks.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 ive never used gasket maker on an oring before just oil
Did it not leak after using gasket maker?
@@joshsaich9159 I had never until this point either. Suzuki didn’t do a good job with fitment for this part so it’s standard for katanas to leak there. For me it hasn’t leaked since.
Can I split the crank cause without taking out the heads
Yes, you can split the case and even shim the transmission with the heads on.
Dude i have a gsx600f mine has a problem in alternator can i use gsxr600 1990 alternator coz here in my country it is very hard to find parts
I’m not sure but I know how to find out. Go to suzukipartshouse.com, plug in your bike, find the alternator in the parts diagram and it’s part number. After you have the part number you can plug in different bikes on the website and check if they have the same part number.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 ok thanks dude
Question about the alternator.. I’m having to get another alternator or get the one I got rebuilt. I have a 98 750 I can’t find one for the 98 they have them for the 600. Are they the same?
I’m not sure. However, when I’m curious about part comparability I first find the part number and compare it to the part number of the year I’m curious about. Use suzukipartshouse.com for this
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Partzilla and bike barn have parts diagrams too. Some of them ONLY show the Gixxer for these years and I THINK the alternators are identical for both 600/750. Carb jets ARE different though.
Wow
Where is the alternator voltage regulator located. My battery is not staying charged even when I ride for about 20 minutes come back cut it off it want crank my signal lights and headlight blink when I turn the signal on also. Do I have to buy an whole alternator or just the regulator
You will likely need a new alternator. The regulator is located on the alternator. You just have to remove the cap. I believe 3, 8mm bolts.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thanks brother
Hello, i have a katana 600, it was running on 2 cilinders, when i checked the compression using the manuel. I’ve red 4 bar on each cilinder. Im working to get the head removed to check the head and the pistons, what do you think??
Cilinders 3-4 are not working, both sparkplugs where kind of wet. I got an other pair of carbs and it had the same issue
It sounds to me like you might be making a small problem into a big problem. When you are running on 2 cylinders you check for 3 things. Air, fuel, & spark. Are you sure your carbs are working right? what about the petcock? or the spark plugs? If you have equal compression on each cylinder why are you removing the cylinder head? If 2 work, the others should as well under the same conditions. Its important to note that most sub $100 compression testers like Ebay and amazon ones are so inaccurate you might as well not use them. Guarantee that the cylinders are getting the correct amount of gas, air, and spark and then consider removing the cylinder head.
gracias
Hi,
Could you provide links to buy the three special tool you mention at the beginning of the video.. starter clutch and clutch tools?
I found them on ebay a long time ago. I wish I could remember the part number but instead look up your year and model and the appropriate tool part number for it. generally buying them new is incredibly expensive and ebay is the cheepest and best since the tools dont normally break.
i'm assuming that you have to pull the the head and cylinder to get to the transmission right? to replace parts.
Actually you don't have to. While I have never removed the transmission this way, you can simply split the crankcase with everything still attached.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thanks.
What exhaust manifold are u using? I've been looking to convert to a single exhaust but wanted aftermarket manifold for my 91 750f
Mine is made by black widow exhaust
Hi, can you show the kickstand and centerstand? I'm having a hard time to figure out the springs.
Normally I would recommend a parts diagram but I just looked at it and it won’t be very helpful. I don’t have access to my bike for a while so I recommend you join the Facebook group “Suzuki GSX-F Katana” and ask someone there to post a picture for you. Lots of very helpful people on that forum that are very knowledgeable about working on this bike.
PLEEASE can you tell me best way/ how to remove the starter??
It’s pretty intuitive. Remove everything above the starter that’s in the way. Remove the 2 bolts holding the starter. Pull the starter out.
I can't get my cylinder head off their isn't enough space I think I have to drop my engine do you have any tips to wiggling it out
Unfortunately I don't have any tips but you are not alone. That is always insanely hard. You don't have to drop the engine but it always looks like it won't fit. I've spent hours removing it and sometimes I've been able to pull it first try. Good luck and I feel your pain. One tip I can recommend is restart the process of lifting it out a lot to get the correct angle eventually.
Hello i have have a cuestion i burning many times the spark plugs i think is the foul of the oil i have consumed more then 1 liter oil.
Is motul 10W40 7100 the wright size what type of oil do you use
Ore is this a fould of the engine my bike have 45000 km
Whenever a bike is burning oil you have a big problem. Its hard to say why your burning oil but using 10w40 is the correct oil. I would try a compression test first to see the condition of the engine.
Great videos, I replaced the oil seal on the gear shifter and the o ring on the neutral signal and when I put everything back together it won't shift. I have to jiggle the shifter to get it into neutral. It will go into first but won't shift to 2nd 3rd so on. How much of a tare down do I need to do to see the problem? Thx ... 96 suzuki katana 750
It’s hard to say with out more info. When the bike is running and moving do you have the same problem? Are you sure your clutch is adjusted properly? (Mainly the screw on the engine) Have you ever split the crank case? How many miles does your bike have? Any shifting problems in the past?
It was shifting fine when I took it apart . As far as riding it I've only tried to move forward in 1st gear and then tried to shift but it seems locked up
The cases have never been split, I'll readjust the clutch per the manual tomorrow
Sorry I missed some of your questions, it's got 55,000 on with no shifting issues in the past
@@anthonybar7499 it’s very unlikely your transmission has any problems. I’d say it’s most likely your clutch isn’t adjusted right or the shifter isn’t on properly.
Hi can I contact u any other way as I have some pics of my bottom end of my 93 gsx750f and won’t to get some advice
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 👍
Question. I just got a 1995 750. The clutch was replaced, but the cable wouldn't move. Cable isn't seized. So my question is, the bike will shift down to first and neutral but it will not shift up from 2nd to 6th. Someone told me that there's a chance the clutch exploded and left a chunk of the fiber stuck somewhere preventing the shift. Is this true? Can I see the shift forks if I remove the oil pan?
I think that’s possible but I would start by removing the push rod and checking if it’s bent. It’s possible the shifting has been done too hard and simply bent it. You won’t be able to see enough if you only remove the oil pan.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 what pushrod? And do I need to split the case?
@@MD-tg1iz you do not. Follow where the clutch cable goes and you’ll see it attaches to a mechanism that turns. As it turns, it pushes the push rod in, engaging the clutch.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 do you have a fb or Instagram?
@@MD-tg1iz Were you able to fix it on your own? I never got a message on instagram.
I need to replace my oil pan gasket,is that a fairly easy job to do on the bike? Never did it..mine is 92 gsxr 750
It’s very easy. I’ll be replacing mine pretty soon too. Cheapest way to do it is cut out a new gasket from a gasket sheet. Easiest way is to just buy a precut one.
Thank you, I got a new gasket from partszilla..my oil drain plug leaks,even after replacing a new olug and gasket..should I stick with 10w40 or can you run a thicker oil? I live in Arizona.. where are you from?
@@flexmarchetti use 10w40 specifically made for motorcycles. Otherwise you can ruin your clutch pack. You might be able to use something a bit thicker but I wouldn’t bother.
@Suzuki Katana Mechanic thank you,I appreciate your input.. how long have you been working on motorcycles?
@@flexmarchetti I’m not a trained mechanic or anything like that so this bike has been what I’ve used to teach myself everything I can. Just 2-3 weeks ago I honed cylinders for the first time with great success so I’m still learning new things. I also have a decommissioned dodge charger cop car as a project car as I like working on vehicles in general.
How did you get the head off it gets stuck
That’s pretty normal. I use a rubber mallet and tap the sides over and over until it starts to come up.
Can I reuse both the head gaskets with the copper spray, or do I need to buy new ones altogether?
If your lucky you should be able reuse them. The safe bet is to use a new one but they can be reused if undamaged and sealed properly.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Why would you bother to even say that? Buy a new damn gasket you cheap fu*ks. Stop trying to pinch pennies when you do not need to. You NEED to get everything back together PROPERLY and saving old gaskets is a sure way to have to RE-DO the sheet you just did. Don't be an egghead, work SMART not HARD.
@@anonimous2451 It’s simply not always necessary. Normally I’d recommend swapping them but why not save over $100 when you can.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 IMHO it is ALWAYS necessary. That lil $20-200 part may cost you DAYS of labor when using super glue sheet.........I know there are a few places around front and back oil seals that require it due to the tiny spaces it covers on Engines (built a few in my day), but My Pappy always insisted on NEW GASKETS and he showed me many times how that stuff fails that you used. Pennies vs headaches? I'll spend the pennies thanks.
So what spec DO you set the pushrod to for the clutch? Mine said the same thing, I did it like 5 times and though was wondering WTF happened, I think I burnt my clutch because of it anyway and 2nd gear, or the shift fork is messed up (probably both) so I'm replacing that but I don't wanna burn out the service manual says for pushrod spec
You should want it around 1/8th to 1/4th of a turn out.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thank you🤙
hello friend, what is the best oil for this synthetic or semi-synthetic 10w40 engine?
Synthetic 10w40
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 AMSOIL 10W-40 or Mobil1 specifically MOTORCYCLE OIL, NOT AUTO OIL........due to wet clutch requirements cannot adapt to friction modifiers that will cause you to GO BACK IN AND REPLACE YOUR CLUTCH PLATES........Friction Modifiers Wreck the surfaces of the clutch plates by embedding into them which will make them NOT FUNCTION properly, Hence, you WILL have to rip it back apart for new clutch plate install.........TRUST ME !!! Do not Do what I did...........YIKES.
@@anonimous2451 I’ve heard a few people mention this on forums before actually. I completely forgot to mention this part. Thanks for adding it.
I guess what I'm asking is what yrs are compatible with my 91
89-98
On the two oil pipes. Can you remove them without disassembly?
Nope, you have to remove the cylinder head to gain access. Its incredibly annoying to remove it.
You drop the motor with out taking it apart. I’ve done engine swaps quite a few times on these. Bikes.
I’ve done this before too but with its weight, I don’t like to drop the whole thing at once if I don’t have to. If I’m going to be removing the cylinders, might as well lighten the engine before dropping it. Last time I had the engine sitting on a jack and lifted the bikes frame to the ceiling with a come along.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 yeah I agree.
I have a 01 600 when I restart my bike after getting it hot the rpms shot up to 4-5k and sit there for about 10 seconds then drops down to 2k
Sounds like an air leak problem. Check your intake boots.
01:20 How do you find this book? Any links online, Suzuki website?....
Idk if this helps but I got my manual off www.emanualonline.com/ comes as a pdf that you can print what you need or just read off your device of choice
Hello friend, a question how much pressure should each cylinder have?
I don't have my book with me unfortunately but if my memories right, the absolute minimum you want to have is about 120 and the maximum is 210. I came into a problem a while back after I rebuilt the engine and my gauge was reading in the 70s and lower. However, I later realized that my gauge was just garbage. You cannot cheep out when it comes to a compression tester. Another aspect you'll want to consider is how close the compression is in all of them. If they are too inconsistent, you'll have problems.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Well the problem I have is that it only turns on 3 cylinders, the number 4 seems to not get gasoline, I take out the spark plug and it has no gasoline or oil
@@hbmotors4715 It sounds like its a carb problem. I have a separate video explaining how to work on them too.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842the truth if it takes time to turn on and does not keep the minimum you have instagram
@@hbmotors4715 instagram? I'm not sure what your saying but its normal for a bike to not operate perfectly when warming up. This is why choke exists as you need to add additional gas to the mix when its cold for it to start easier. After it heats up, you disengage the choke and let the bike operate with your correctly tuned fuel air mix.
An could I put a different cam shaft in it to give a little more pull
I would recommend changing sprockets for your chain instead. Suzuki katanas aren’t worth upgrading to that degree. Theirs little tricks people do like use the British timing rotor gear signal generator to make it spark a little early. But overall it’s not a bike you can get that much power out of compared to modern bikes.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 appreciate it the help brother
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I got my gearing setup for faster acceleration on start up how can I set it up to get more acceleration on down the road not the start. Would I put less teeth on the rear sprocket an more on the front
@@ncgoon336 I’ve heard of you lower the front sprocket teeth count you ware you chain out much quicker. However, if you change the rear sprocket to 4 additional teeth you’ll notice faster acceleration with a slightly slower maximum speed and higher cruising rpm. For additional power like that I’ve heard of people changing jets, needles and air filters.
love the videos. but you do know that frame is made to drop the whole engine out the bottom with out taking it apart
I actually did this a few days ago. Lol
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 really great videos I love when people keep the Old sport bikes alive. I have 1994 katana I've had since 1996. Hasn't been rode in 8 or 9 years. I'm getting it back on the road
Where did you get the exhaust from?👍😁
Black widow exhaust. Its a company in the UK.
It's says engine removal but it's NOT so I'll keep looking. Cheers man
If you want to remove the engine without disassembling anything read the comments below. I already explained to another how to do that alone.
Do you know where the flasher relay is?
its generally attached to the side of the battery box.
I like the videos I have a 05 katana 600 I'm learning on myself but it would help if you'd name alot of those parts instead of saying "remove this" "remove that"
I get that a lot. If you don't know the name of a part I recommend you go to suzukipartshouse.com and check out their parts diagrams. In my future videos I'll be stating the names of parts but for this one in particular just making the video was exhausting.
Hey thanks for replying I'll check that out thanks for the videos
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I think the boyz do not get that part of it and dude YOU FU*KIN ROCK for helping out the Katana World. I appreciate you a LOT my bruh.
Where Can I get a manual like yours for a Katana 600??
Haynes makes manuals you can download online or order as a book. You can find them in a lot of places online but I recommend you join the Suzuki Katana group forum on Facebook. They have all the manuals available there along with a lot of other helpful info.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 great!! Thanks!! Would you have a link or something?? I'm in Mexico and the principal suggestions I see there arre from my country... Unfortunately 🥴
hay I know this is a old video but I wonder if there is a way we can talk on the phone please let me know I could use your advice thanks
I generally answer peoples questions on here. Do you have any specific questions I could help with?
Question why would a bike not have any torque when giving it the gas and only reason why I'm asking here is because I'm an owner of a Suzuki Katana
What do you mean no torque? Is it shifting properly and is the clutch pack in good condition? What’s the condition of the carbs?
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 should be good I've done took apart carb cleaned put back together then I even changed the disks in my cluch n yeah one day I was riding back home n I started losing power like I would hit the gas in 6th gear n tires would not move
@@lawrencemosley3306 that’s a tough one. Their is a Facebook page called “Suzuki gsx-f katana” and I recommend you ask this question there.
Only thing I can reasonably think of is the fuel air mix is off at a higher rpm.
Hello i really need some help please someone who knows
Ive got a 2002 600cc after a carb clean the bike runned well and would hold idle nice and after an hour driving the bike lost power and start running on 3 cylinders it would stay on only with throttle and whenever pulled the choke died straight away
Ps. When i put the carbs back ive put 4 new ngk spark plugs aswell
Is it possible you messed up the fuel air mix when reinstalling it? You first need to diagnose the issue. Check spark plugs. Each will indicate exactly what went wrong in each carb. I suspect you are suddenly running rich in all carbs and extremely rich in another. Watch my carb video too. You’d benefit from understanding the important of float height, bench syncing, etc.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Bench Sync'ing means setting all the Hard Tabs to the same length's during re-assembly. I thought it was something else when I did mine and watched more than 1 video to find exactly what that meant. Thanks for your Carb video. It really helped me too. I have to still do a drop idle test and fine tuning air/fuel mixture. F.I. is so much easier...........Starting to HATE carb's a lot more now... :)
Dude if you can’t name the tools or the parts you are removing I’ve been a mechanic for years but I don’t know anything about motorcycle engines but I know you know what you are doing but a person that doesn’t have experience in braking down a motor because each part you take off have 3 or 4 or 6 screws so without correct organizational skills man I can get lost though you are a good mechanic people can’t read your mind give more details and do skip part of the process I’m just trying to help
I'm currently making and engine reassembly video. I've finished reshooting but It's so long that I haven't finished it yet. I didn't film every one of the organizational ones though and I have to add subtitles of additional specifics. I hope ill have it out soon.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 This is WHY I said PHOTO'S PHOTO'S PHOTO'S MAN. And build a cardboard Template for common area's due to differing lengths on the screws. Even that shifter cover plate has 2 longer screws that I damn well know I woulda got wrong if I had not done that. MARK EVERYTHING in the groupings of area's too. Even Masking Tape tags are better than guessing.
@@anonimous2451 I’ve used cardboard cut outs like your describing but normally I just put the screws in without threading them in first and you can tell which goes where by seeing how much space the screw has left to thread in. If their is a ton of screw left or too little your putting it in the wrong spot. They should all have about the same amount of space to thread in.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Good Tip, Habits are hard to break and that is my habit. Not condemning anyone that does it differently just adding a lil suggestion for those out there which may find value in it.
I want to suzuki katana 750f engine
You can find these engines on eBay. Frequently they need to be rebuilt though.
Why not just buy a complete engine and just drop it in($250-$600) done and done.
When you rebuild it properly you can get the compression like new and when dropping in a used engine you never know what your getting until you test it. Other than compression their could also be additional problems with replacement used engines. This way I can personally verify that the engine will continue to run for a very long time by inspecting everything. $250 also sounds incredibly low of a price for an engine especially once you add on shipping.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 All valid points i guess im just not that mechanically inclined lol... got a banshee with a 04 750cc katana anytime it stops working right just drop another engine in it usually for around $400 give or take 94-00-01-04. I suppose if ide fix them probably still be on the 94 lol
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 mabey you can help with my current problem before I buy another engine lol...
Last time I took it out thought I blew the gears or something and trailerd it home... few days later I unload it start it up and its wanting to take off.. drove around the yard and it started makeing a grinding noise and lost my gears again 😑... don't know shit but sounded BAD. You have any idea what that would be? Can pick up a 01 900cc ninja for $400 gonna jamm that in it if I can't figure this out asap...
@@nunyabis9021 the symptoms you are describing are very serious and and making the engine run will only damage it further. It sounds like your transmission may be out of spec along with the forks. You could also have a poorly shimmed transmission or are just shifting way too hard damaging the transmission and forks. You'll have to split the crank case which can be a huge pain.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Thank man you are very knowledgeable mechanic. I greatly appreciate you taking your time to help. And on that note I'm likely gonna get another motor lol use this one for parts if possible... As I said "im not that mechanicly inclined" lol. Mabey once I pick up another ill crack it open and see what I can do... use it to learn something. Thanks again.
Jesus Christ you did way too much. Suzuki people.
Lol. I got this bike to learn how to fix motorcycles and engines in general. Not really a suzuki fan as much as interested in the mechanical side. Since I learned so much from this bike and about it, I turned to helping other people with it.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 did you really have to take everything off before dropping the engine? Taking my buddys off tommorow
@@dylaninindy You don't have to but I did since it becomes lighter and easier. If you need to pull the engine itself, just remove the big metal bracket under it, the 2 main engine mounting bolts, and all the wires connected to it. I also used a come along and a big bar a few feet above the bike to lift the entire bike out of the engine.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 yeah okay that makes sense. Thank you man
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 hey, thanks for all the material, your videos as incredibly helpful. I want to split the crankcase to check my transmission, can you confirm this is possible? So I don’t have to do all that other work. Essentially, after removing the engine, I’ll flip it upside down and split case after removing the oil pan.