I’m thinking the next video I make will be how to adjust your clutch. I’ve seen too many people completely lost on how to do it and not realizing it’s more than just the cable.
I have an 06 K6 model 750, in the manual chain spec is 25-30mm slack adjusted on centre stand, quite a difference to your model. It still has those thin plate arm ends like you had. I use a vernier also, as the scale plate on the right hand side has a bigger hole than the size of the axle and is about 2mm out on the marks. I use the vernier endways, the depth spike against the plate and move it toward the eye bolt until the base touches to get the measurement. Have you advanced the ignition timing on your engine? Mine has a tps which advances the timing on low load for better economy, but it is also possible to slot the screws and rotate the base plate to 4 degrees advance for smoother running and better throttle response. It doesn't increase power though.I have replaced the handle bar plate rubber mounts with solid machined aluminium cones. Much more direct feel and makes it less terrifying to ride in high winds
I haven’t changed the timing or those rubber grommets. I’ve heard of people using a part from the British models for a quick and easy change to timing that adjusts 4 degrees and gets the better response though. The next thing I plan to do is swap my current Chinese gauge with a KOSO TNT-04 multifunction gauge. Currently my speed and odometer is way off and I don’t have a tachometer. This should fix that. It’s also super strange that the manual would say to adjust it on your center stand. When you add weight to it the slack would change drastically. Technically my manual says to use the side stand (it’s in the picture of it I included) but as far as I’m concerned that is waaay to risky. In my case I raised the rear suspension and my neighbor welded an extension to raise the center stand so it would be even less accurate now. I’ve found a few things in my manual I find absurd that I’ve corrected in my videos and this is the 3rd I can think of off the top of my head. Another was a torque rating that would and has broken my timing chain tensioner before and another relating to part of the inside of my carbs.
I made a video a while back about how to make a naked bike buts it’s since changed quite a bit. My next video will be how to fully adjust the clutch (not just the cable). Once I’ve finished changing and upgrading a few more things on my bike I’ll make a semi-final update video about it. I still want to change alot of bolts for stainless since Florida is destroying them all, get better and brighter indicators and swap to stainless brake lines before I make a video like that. Most recent big change is I finally have a really nice gauge up front that I might make an entire video on eventually if others ask for it.
Hey, man. I got a question for you. Can I reach out to you personally somehow? I have a concern about oil coming into my signal generator case from the bearing behind where you manually turn the engine over. I think this is normal due to the part needing to be lubricated, but I am not sure. Would I be able to show you a video of my problem just to look at it? Maybe you'd be able to address it in a video as well? I can't find any documentation from Suzuki regarding this feature/error. Is there an email of yours I can reach out to? Edit: By the way, thank you for already sharing as much as you have. It has been a lifesaver. This issue is just beyond my and the scope of your current videos. I'm really lost. I've already taken apart part of the engine and put it back together. This oil issue has just been a concern of mine that I haven't been able to get around to yet.
Hey brother! Just swapped my 2006 Katana 750 with a GSXR1100 1988 motor, just FYI it fits perfect without having to grind the frame if this ever interests you :) Cheers
I’ve seen people do similar things with bandit 1200 engines online before. In hindsight I wish I did this instead of rebuilding my engine to the extent I had as it would have been cheeper and had better performance.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 1 thing i did and you could is put a turbo on it, easy performance and since you rebuilded the engine you know it wont blow up... Put a cheap 21mm on it and double the horsepower instantly
@@theointechs that sounds awesome but I’m in flight school so don’t have the time or money. Hit something on the highway 2 weeks ago and am replacing the chain, sprockets, and chain dampener as is right now. Just had my chain flaring tool, flare rather than my master link too, lol.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Yeah i get it , for me it was more of a work around because i live in Quebec Canada and sports bikes cost 3k$ to register so swapping the motor is a sleeper 500$ to register bike
Hands down the best suzuki katana channel
Respect for caring enough about others to share this
I’m thinking the next video I make will be how to adjust your clutch. I’ve seen too many people completely lost on how to do it and not realizing it’s more than just the cable.
Very usefull info a smooth clutch is the bestt
Thanks for coming out of hibernation! I have a 1990 GSX600F and your videos have been clutch!!!
Lmao I was just wondering the same thing and then you uploaded. Thank you
I have an 06 K6 model 750, in the manual chain spec is 25-30mm slack adjusted on centre stand, quite a difference to your model. It still has those thin plate arm ends like you had. I use a vernier also, as the scale plate on the right hand side has a bigger hole than the size of the axle and is about 2mm out on the marks. I use the vernier endways, the depth spike against the plate and move it toward the eye bolt until the base touches to get the measurement. Have you advanced the ignition timing on your engine? Mine has a tps which advances the timing on low load for better economy, but it is also possible to slot the screws and rotate the base plate to 4 degrees advance for smoother running and better throttle response. It doesn't increase power though.I have replaced the handle bar plate rubber mounts with solid machined aluminium cones. Much more direct feel and makes it less terrifying to ride in high winds
I haven’t changed the timing or those rubber grommets. I’ve heard of people using a part from the British models for a quick and easy change to timing that adjusts 4 degrees and gets the better response though. The next thing I plan to do is swap my current Chinese gauge with a KOSO TNT-04 multifunction gauge. Currently my speed and odometer is way off and I don’t have a tachometer. This should fix that. It’s also super strange that the manual would say to adjust it on your center stand. When you add weight to it the slack would change drastically. Technically my manual says to use the side stand (it’s in the picture of it I included) but as far as I’m concerned that is waaay to risky. In my case I raised the rear suspension and my neighbor welded an extension to raise the center stand so it would be even less accurate now. I’ve found a few things in my manual I find absurd that I’ve corrected in my videos and this is the 3rd I can think of off the top of my head. Another was a torque rating that would and has broken my timing chain tensioner before and another relating to part of the inside of my carbs.
Thanks for sharing!
can you give us a overall update on your bike? ive got a 97’ 600 and would love to see what you’ve done overall
I made a video a while back about how to make a naked bike buts it’s since changed quite a bit. My next video will be how to fully adjust the clutch (not just the cable). Once I’ve finished changing and upgrading a few more things on my bike I’ll make a semi-final update video about it. I still want to change alot of bolts for stainless since Florida is destroying them all, get better and brighter indicators and swap to stainless brake lines before I make a video like that. Most recent big change is I finally have a really nice gauge up front that I might make an entire video on eventually if others ask for it.
👍
Hey, man. I got a question for you. Can I reach out to you personally somehow? I have a concern about oil coming into my signal generator case from the bearing behind where you manually turn the engine over. I think this is normal due to the part needing to be lubricated, but I am not sure. Would I be able to show you a video of my problem just to look at it? Maybe you'd be able to address it in a video as well? I can't find any documentation from Suzuki regarding this feature/error. Is there an email of yours I can reach out to?
Edit: By the way, thank you for already sharing as much as you have. It has been a lifesaver. This issue is just beyond my and the scope of your current videos. I'm really lost. I've already taken apart part of the engine and put it back together. This oil issue has just been a concern of mine that I haven't been able to get around to yet.
You can message me on Instagram bill_armstrong_dxb
Hey brother! Just swapped my 2006 Katana 750 with a GSXR1100 1988 motor, just FYI it fits perfect without having to grind the frame if this ever interests you :) Cheers
I’ve seen people do similar things with bandit 1200 engines online before. In hindsight I wish I did this instead of rebuilding my engine to the extent I had as it would have been cheeper and had better performance.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 1 thing i did and you could is put a turbo on it, easy performance and since you rebuilded the engine you know it wont blow up... Put a cheap 21mm on it and double the horsepower instantly
@@theointechs that sounds awesome but I’m in flight school so don’t have the time or money. Hit something on the highway 2 weeks ago and am replacing the chain, sprockets, and chain dampener as is right now. Just had my chain flaring tool, flare rather than my master link too, lol.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Yeah i get it , for me it was more of a work around because i live in Quebec Canada and sports bikes cost 3k$ to register so swapping the motor is a sleeper 500$ to register bike