HowTo: Repair a Hayward Super II Pump - poolplaza.com
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2011
- Taking a part a Hayward Super II Pump, and replacing the shaft seal.
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I love that this guy uses the correct terminology for each of the parts. Everybody else says "remove this thing, then pull this other thing off".
He's really good at explaining, and the lighting and photography are first rate.
I just replaced my pump motor and kinda forgot where that wear-ring was positioned; I guessed where it went, almost counting on taking it all back apart, but after watching your excellent video I know I got it right! Thank you for helping me verify the location of that ring. You did a great job on this video, and I really appreciate being able to view it. Sincerely, and with Best Regards, Dave Russell.
Doing all this right now. Motor decided to have a minor firework display after 20 odd years. A motor winding shorted. Took me a while to get the shaft locked but got it right as per video. In the end I replaced all seals and gaskets, the impeller and wear ring too. Good video. Thanks.
I have been replacing the seal kit on my Hayward Super II pump for several years now. Each time I have done it while watching this video. There are few other videos like this one out on the web but this is by far the most informative and easy to comprehend. Great job and thanks for submitting.
See my post above . It may help . Unbelievable how few are aware of this . Pool stores and techs included
Well done, speaker is clear and concise, video is clear and corresponds to task at hand. He is following the KIS principle (keep it simple), so being dull is not a bad thing with instructional matters like this
We had a pump breakdown yesterday and this video helped us tremendously. Thank you for posting.
Thanks for the great video, covered everything without telling me to subscribe to your channel for the first 5 minutes.
Thank you for showing the instructions it's always good to rewatch a video even no I've done it three times have a great day
I finished replacing all gaskets and seals and rings. Thanks to this short video it was absolutely a piece of cake. Thanks.
At 5:03 you will notice a metal silver colored sleeve around the brass diffuser shaft. That is actually part of the spring loaded seal and will need to be removed as well if replacing the seal. I would also suggest watching several of these videos from different people, because not one I have watched is complete and/or perfect. This guys is pretty good, but finger tight bolts? Not on my pump.
Thanks! I watched a different video and had to watch yours to actually see what was going on! Thank you for going through step by step!
Unfortunately, my Super II is original equipment from 21 years ago and the leak had gone unnoticed for some time - it's a much different situation when everything is old, crusty, and rusted, and the pump is in the middle of a muddy pad surrounded by complex plumbing and there's a sweep pump about 8" behind this one.
Nothing wrong with the video and the instructions are great, this is just a little reality-check that you're looking at brand new equipment on a work-height table and I was jealous.
Thanks for posting this! It really helped with my 1st rebuild. No leaks and saved
some money!
Thank you so much for taking the time to post this...
Never touch the ceramic seal with your finger. Eventually skin oil will compromise the seal. Always replace the diffuser seal and housing seal also. Comes as a "seal kit" for just a few more bucks.
Thanks alot for taking time to explain the step, put together and post the video!
Thank you for your how-to video. This video helped me to learn how to replace my 20 yrs old motor in few hours.
You saved me hours of time. Great video. Thank you.
Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to post this!
Excellent job! Great instructions!
Good job. Thanks for the instructional video.
Great Video, answered a few of small questions I had. Thanks.
Man, much easier than I thought.
Thanks
Great video, very informative and helped me gr the job done quickly & easily! Thanks
Great instructional video! A home run for DIY! Thanks
You are welcome
Thanks! You saved our day!
Thanks for the tips worked great
Pool Plaza is glad we could help.
what happens if you replace the impeller wear ring back wards? lip against the impeller?
Removing impeller in reality is probably much harder. You will probably need a strap wrench. Locking the hub on the motor is also harder than shown. 12mm or 7/16 wrench has to be inserted under start switch on motor which is tricky. Maybe you could show that stuff in detail so people don't get surprised and frustrated when the impeller does not just come off as easily as you show.
Mine came off by hand, the impeller that is, but I did remove the capacitor hold down to make room for the 7/16 wrench. But spanner is recommended and I was worried I might need one. Also my impeller was worn out pretty bad, best suggestion to buy a new one.
Thank you so much! I just wish I had seem the video early enough to buy my parts from you.
Thanks for the excellent video, helped me alot. 👍
Thanks heaps for this. 💗
Thanks for your help...
Nicely done
Excellent video very informative an detailed!!!👌👌👌
12mm or 7/16" to secure the shaft; it slips in near the capacitor. Do not touch the ceramic seal; use a lint free cloth. See the black/grey ring on the seal? Make sure to re-fill the pump with water when you are done. Otherwise, great vid!
11 mm .
Thanks!
THANK YOU!!!
Can you please do a video on how to replace the cooling fan and bearings , thank you Danny
Thank you,merci beaucoup!!
I am not having a leak issue. I believe my motor just went out as it will not come on and throws a spark when i try and turn the filter on. My pool guys wants to replace the motor and pump for 950.00. I was given advice to just change the motor, which is way cheaper. do i need to replace anything else? seals? Shaft?
can you go up from a 1 hp to a 1.5hp? do you need to upgrade impeller and diffuser
Hayward is one of the best also in Europe.
Thanks for the demo -- as I have a Super2 that needs some attention. Although this is a bit long in the tooth now, I'm wondering if you'd still be monitoring this for DIYers like me to bug you. You make the impeller removal look SO EASY - I suppose it's all in the wrist? For one thing, I can't put a wrench on the other end of the shaft - it's just a slot for a size LARGE screwdriver - and a screwdriver is one of the least efficient tools one can use: almost NO leverage! So I tried my impact driver with the biggest straight screwdriver bit I could find, but that would rather tear up the slot in the shaft than break loose from the impeller!
So my question goes to the handy-dandy special tool you showed at the beginning of your video. Is there likely a place hidden somewhere where I could insert such a thing, if I had one, to hold the shaft???
(Don't you sell rebuild kits for these pumps? Mine's 14 years old, and this is the first time I've had to open it up, surprisingly!)
A quick note; if you have an older super II pump, the impeller will likely have to be replaced because the entire thing is made of plastic. You'll note in this video that the sleeve where it screws onto the shaft is brass, old pumps will be plastic. And if that snaps off, not only is the impeller ruined, but the diffuser and diffuser ring will likely be ruined as well. Those three parts will run you about $50.
Take it apart before your order.
I don't know if my pump needs fixing??? It is surging or convulsing when it's on and seems to be sucking air. There are no leaks and the ring on the cover seems fine. I won't know what it needs? Will someone help if they can?
purpose of wear ring?
I followed the instructions, but the instructions left out replacing the rubber gasket on the face of the pump and the plastic face plate. I had to figure that out especially when there was leakage. Now I'm trying to figure out how to stop the leakage.
Its a good video however what about the seals between the motor housing and the strainer housing. Would that be the cause for a leak from my pump that is about 8 years old and still pumps just fine?
Usually the pump has run dry for a period of time due to possible water level.
Thank You
....WHAT IS THE PART NAME OF THE V-SHAPED SWITCH THAT PROVIDES POWER TO THE CAPACITOR?
Great video, unfortunately the pumps are installed in some Godawful places and it's a pain to work on them, like mine lol Have to be a contortionist to get the wiring landed. But, this is a great pump and I enjoy rebuilding mine to save some time and $$$. Have to be careful when you order parts online to make sure you get OEM Hayward parts. Lot's of 3rd party parts that are garbage.
I'm a building engineer. Every seal I ever had that failed was mainly due to the automatic pool control chlorinator and acid monitors not working right due to stuck non shutoff magnetics getting stuck in the sample cells and adding acid to the point of volcanic acid levels of PH 3 and chlorine to where you could sterilize a dead body and turning the pump seals into sponges which you can use as magic markers,
Have replaced countless seals over the years they last approx 1 month . I have noticed that when I add muriatic acid to lower PH around pool perimeter a leak seems to develop in pump shortly . Is the abrupt change from 8.o ph to 7.4 too much for these seals ? Useing Bacqua cil and Hy proxide to shock as per Bacquacil
Sorry for my spelling errors in the first comment. A drop from 8 to 7.4 should not do any damage. When the pumps have been subjected to repeated acid drop attacks this will most surely turn the rubber into sponge like material as well as over chlorination. The pools I work on have automated systems that add chlorine and acid when needed. When a pump shuts off for a unexpected reason these automated feeder system are supposed to detect it however the magnetic solenoid inside the sample flow cell a lot of times gets stuck so the sample cell thinks the pump is still on and keeps reading the stagnant water inside the sample cell and keeps feeding the chemicals in to the pool thinking its doing it job but is actually self destructing till failure.
Just found out that replacement PS 201 Shaft Seal has a moulded PLASTIC face . It's considered OEM, I doubt thats what they have in the new units . They probably have the PS 4265. the PS 201 plastic may last in some applications , but not in mine . The Carbon face mating with the ceramic seat is probably much stronger and lasts longer . Even the body assembly is stronger . This took a lot of resarch on my part and I have ordered the carbon seal . I wonder how many owners had the same problem and just just bought a new pump? Talk about built in obsolescence. I will let you know the results. I dont give up easily . Too much junk out there these days .
JisINSANE3 yikes now those I’ve gotta see
What is the kit # does any body knows
Are we supposed to touch the seal FACES with our fingers ?
👍👍👍
You should NEVER touch the Carbon (not plastic) rotating portion of the seal!
Hand tight on the 4 bolts attaching the pump plate to motor??? The rest of the video is good, but that is NOT correct. Tighten them up!!
Great tutorial dude, only you put the impellar wear ring on backwards Lmao. We all have done it!
Wear ring was installed correctly.
was that ring put in incrrect in the video yes or no?pl reply
video shows the correct way to install ring. It's also printed on the ring which direction to install.
....WHAT IS THE PART NAME OF THE V-SHAPED SWITCH THAT PROVIDES POWER TO THE CAPACITOR?