I love using shellac. I've never seen "stick", I always use dewaxed flake. Shellac is a great "recovery" or "barrier". If you screw up any finish, you can put down a coat of shellac and then proceed with virtually anything else with worrying about compatibility. My Sassafras guitar has a failed coat of tung oil, a coat of shellac and then a final coat of wiping poly. Still perfect 10yrs on.
Shellac is an amazing and versatile finish. And, unlike many finishes, it is both non-toxic and good smelling. Indeed, one of my oldest woodworking memories is the smell of shellac in my great uncle Ralph's woodworking shop. Every time I smell shellac, I fondly recall that memory from the 1950s. Walnut rules! I don't understand why people complain about the price of walnut and then pay two or three times as much (if not more) for imported hardwoods. Air dried walnut is also my favorite because of the beautiful color tones in the wood, but walnut in almost any form is a very special material, in my opinion. I tend to reserve it for special projects and gifts. Thanks for another great video. 👍👍
I grew up in Penacook NH, my mother was born in Canterbury, I started woodworking as a freshman at Penacook High School wood shop class and have loved it ever since. I'm now retired and live in Central Texas. 75 yrs old and still woodworking. Thanks for keeping it alive and well!
I used several coats of the Aqua Coat on my Alaskan Spruce guitar top to fill the grain, then top coat with 17 coats of spray lacquer. The Aqua Coat worked really well to fill the pores. Very easy to apply with a hard plastic "squeegee" .
Another thought just came to mind. Believe it was back in about 1995 I lived in Wisconsin and an associate spoke of his grandfather/father woodworker that often said and lived by, "there are two kinds of wood, Black Walnut and Firewood".
GREAT introduction to Shellac. I've never seen before the actual Stick Shellac and Shellac Buttons and understood the repercussions of Shellac with and without wax. Thank You!
I am getting ready to do a very large ship-lap project, and I found this immensely helpful, fantastic that you took the time to help educate us all, thank you sir so much.
I learned a lot about shellac from your video and I appreciate you taking the time to explain about using it rather than boiled linseed oil and other finishes. I didn’t know until recently that Sanding Sealer is actually a “thinner” shellac. I tried it on a scrap piece of purpleheart and it turned out to be a very nice finish. I’ve never used the flakes before but from what you and others have said that is the way to go. I’m going to check out the people whom you got your lac sticks and lac buttons from and maybe purchase some from them. Thank you again, and thanks to the camera lady too. (She asked some good questions).
Shellac, will even block heavy smoke residue. French polish is my favorite finish and the best way to avoid lap/brush marks, even if you dull it with steel wool after. Love walnut, especially veneer for speakers and other composite caseworks. I like wipe on poly for it or Maloof's technique.
I have stock of walnut. I used improved shellac which has bit of water resistance. Before using any finish on walnut I always linseed oil it. It gives the finish depth. I don’t use shellac on surfaces that get exposed to moisture. There I use polyurethane or twin pack acrylic lacquer. I find ethanol is best for dissolving and using shellac.
I use de-waxed blonde shellac under other finishes -- e.g polyurethane. Zinsser have primers/undercoats based on shellac that are great for painting, too.
I am working on a desk top of curly maple. I see projects that really show off the depth of the patterns in this beautiful wood. Would just shellac work for this project?
It can if you want the natural color of the wood. But it will “pop” a bit more if you first apply an oil varnish to the curly maple. If open to using a stain, there are many creative and effective ways to maximize the curly maple figure. One of the best videos I have made on this topic, inspired by great guitar finishes is this one: Finishing Techniques for Curly Maple th-cam.com/users/liveYx8vEPpuKj8?feature=share
Also, the shellac as a topcoat for a desk or tabletop is not the best choice as it is not as durable as most varnishes. I’m sure I say more in the video. Hope all that is helpful, all the best! 👍😎
HI Walnut was my favorite wood until I realized that it washes out from the sun exposure. now days I stain first then coat with shellac (first brushed then padded) or lacquer. now days cherry is my favorite.
Though walnut is called the "king of woods" by many, not my favorite. I don't care for the look, the smell , the porosity or the way "works". As to finishing with shellac, French Polishing.
That’s what makes the world, and people like you, interesting. I admit I’m not a fan of the smell, except for the way it instantly connects me to my memory of my apprenticeship experience thirty-five years ago. I do love how it works, almost as agreeable in texture as genuine Mahogany. And I have to agree, French Polishing is the highest form of application. But when you don’t want the higher gloss formality of French Polish, I like the approach I showed in this video…apply by brush or spray several coats, rub out with 0000 steel wool and wax. Thanks for watching and for your feedback, very helpful 👍
Yes, I know what you mean about it washing out from sunlight/UV rays. I’ve also seen that on a nice cherry table as well as a Mahogany table I had too close to the window. For that reason I like to add the Burnt Umber glazing stain between coats of shellac which seems to preserve the rich color. Thanks! 👍
An observation: Steel Wool. There is the cheap, oiled, short strand type from the hardware store that crumbles and transfers oil to the rubbed surface and potential stain,.. or long grain which does not disintegrate as quickly and is easier to brush off. Available from Star Liberon and other sources. More money, better quality.
Yes, the same way and I added a thin coat of the Burnt Umber Glazing Stain that I showed, between coats of Shellac. Then the top of the table got an additional coat or two of Lacquer to offer more protection. 👍
I am a furniture flipper (don't hate me). I am new to your channel. So, I have a 20s burl walnut hutch. I had originally planned on painting. Once I stripped and sanded I just could not. I am wanting to put the correct finish on it to enhance the wood. I dont want that heavy, almost glass-like, look. I just want a nice satin finish that enhances the wood. can you advise me? what should I use?
I love shellac but mine never seems to cure Takes very little pressure to put finger prints in it or the pattern from my socks when I prop them up on my coffee table (please don't judge me,I build the table,if I want to prop my feet on it I will) Any idea why I'm getting these problems? Not just on the coffee table On everything I use it on.
Could be the shellac your are using is too old. Used to be able to read the date codes on the cans but lately the ones I've seen are are illegible to my eyes. I prefer to mix up my own, use a 1 1/2 to2 lb cut ( I spray) . Make sure it's dried between coats like he said in the video - should get a powder when lightly sanding vs gummy bits. Wil take longer to dry than you think if you are in a humid environment. Also it seems the type of alcohol use matters. Everclear pure ethanol is best if available. Some of the denatured alcohols contain less and less ethanol . the Kleen Strip GREEN label is at least 90% ethanol , the red contains more methanol which doesn't work as well.
I love using shellac. I've never seen "stick", I always use dewaxed flake. Shellac is a great "recovery" or "barrier". If you screw up any finish, you can put down a coat of shellac and then proceed with virtually anything else with worrying about compatibility. My Sassafras guitar has a failed coat of tung oil, a coat of shellac and then a final coat of wiping poly. Still perfect 10yrs on.
Shellac is an amazing and versatile finish. And, unlike many finishes, it is both non-toxic and good smelling. Indeed, one of my oldest woodworking memories is the smell of shellac in my great uncle Ralph's woodworking shop. Every time I smell shellac, I fondly recall that memory from the 1950s.
Walnut rules! I don't understand why people complain about the price of walnut and then pay two or three times as much (if not more) for imported hardwoods. Air dried walnut is also my favorite because of the beautiful color tones in the wood, but walnut in almost any form is a very special material, in my opinion. I tend to reserve it for special projects and gifts.
Thanks for another great video. 👍👍
I grew up in Penacook NH, my mother was born in Canterbury, I started woodworking as a freshman at Penacook High School wood shop class and have loved it ever since. I'm now retired and live in Central Texas. 75 yrs old and still woodworking. Thanks for keeping it alive and well!
I used several coats of the Aqua Coat on my Alaskan Spruce guitar top to fill the grain, then top coat with 17 coats of spray lacquer. The Aqua Coat worked really well to fill the pores. Very easy to apply with a hard plastic "squeegee" .
Another thought just came to mind. Believe it was back in about 1995 I lived in Wisconsin and an associate spoke of his grandfather/father woodworker that often said and lived by, "there are two kinds of wood, Black Walnut and Firewood".
I liked your description of the various forms of shellac near the beginning. Succinct and helpful.
Thank you David, every once in a while I can be succinct! 😎👍
GREAT introduction to Shellac. I've never seen before the actual Stick Shellac and Shellac Buttons and understood the repercussions of Shellac with and without wax. Thank You!
Thanks Bill, I love the crazy natural sources of some of the old finishes and stains…with Shellac being a favorite as you might have noticed 👍😎
I am getting ready to do a very large ship-lap project, and I found this immensely helpful, fantastic that you took the time to help educate us all, thank you sir so much.
22:08 nice sliding dovetails too!
I learned a lot about shellac from your video and I appreciate you taking the time to explain about using it rather than boiled linseed oil and other finishes. I didn’t know until recently that Sanding Sealer is actually a “thinner” shellac. I tried it on a scrap piece of purpleheart and it turned out to be a very nice finish. I’ve never used the flakes before but from what you and others have said that is the way to go. I’m going to check out the people whom you got your lac sticks and lac buttons from and maybe purchase some from them.
Thank you again, and thanks to the camera lady too. (She asked some good questions).
Shellac, will even block heavy smoke residue. French polish is my favorite finish and the best way to avoid lap/brush marks, even if you dull it with steel wool after. Love walnut, especially veneer for speakers and other composite caseworks. I like wipe on poly for it or Maloof's technique.
Great comments, all true and great advice in my experience, thanks!
I have stock of walnut. I used improved shellac which has bit of water resistance. Before using any finish on walnut I always linseed oil it. It gives the finish depth. I don’t use shellac on surfaces that get exposed to moisture. There I use polyurethane or twin pack acrylic lacquer. I find ethanol is best for dissolving and using shellac.
improved shellac? also, you put BLO down first and then shellac? thanks!
knew itd be shellac on walnut as soon as I clicked and I absolutely agree
Very good quality and informative video!! Keep rolling 🎉!!
Thank you, my pleasure! 👍😎
I use de-waxed blonde shellac under other finishes -- e.g polyurethane. Zinsser have primers/undercoats based on shellac that are great for painting, too.
It is used to paint musical instruments such as the guitar and oud, it’s perfect.
Thanks
Great information, thank you!
How do you deal with the pores and could you use a foam brush and could you dilute the can shelac
I am working on a desk top of curly maple. I see projects that really show off the depth of the patterns in this beautiful wood. Would just shellac work for this project?
It can if you want the natural color of the wood. But it will “pop” a bit more if you first apply an oil varnish to the curly maple. If open to using a stain, there are many creative and effective ways to maximize the curly maple figure.
One of the best videos I have made on this topic, inspired by great guitar finishes is this one:
Finishing Techniques for Curly Maple
th-cam.com/users/liveYx8vEPpuKj8?feature=share
Also, the shellac as a topcoat for a desk or tabletop is not the best choice as it is not as durable as most varnishes. I’m sure I say more in the video. Hope all that is helpful, all the best! 👍😎
thank you
HI Walnut was my favorite wood until I realized that it washes out from the sun exposure. now days I stain first then coat with shellac (first brushed then padded) or lacquer. now days cherry is my favorite.
Though walnut is called the "king of woods" by many, not my favorite.
I don't care for the look, the smell , the porosity or the way "works".
As to finishing with shellac, French Polishing.
That’s what makes the world, and people like you, interesting. I admit I’m not a fan of the smell, except for the way it instantly connects me to my memory of my apprenticeship experience thirty-five years ago. I do love how it works, almost as agreeable in texture as genuine Mahogany. And I have to agree, French Polishing is the highest form of application. But when you don’t want the higher gloss formality of French Polish, I like the approach I showed in this video…apply by brush or spray several coats, rub out with 0000 steel wool and wax. Thanks for watching and for your feedback, very helpful 👍
Yes, I know what you mean about it washing out from sunlight/UV rays. I’ve also seen that on a nice cherry table as well as a Mahogany table I had too close to the window. For that reason I like to add the Burnt Umber glazing stain between coats of shellac which seems to preserve the rich color. Thanks! 👍
@@EpicWoodworking mohawk?
Ottimo risultato. Puoi linkarmi il prodotto?
I'm gonna use this! How can I get my heart wood a shade darker?
An observation: Steel Wool.
There is the cheap, oiled, short strand type from the hardware store that crumbles and transfers oil to the rubbed surface and potential stain,.. or long grain which does not disintegrate as quickly and is easier to brush off. Available from Star Liberon and other sources.
More money, better quality.
you rock!!!!!!!!!!!! exactly the annoying problem I was experiencing. thanks to you, I have some Star Liberton on the way. thank you!
How was that small table finished? In the same way? Thanks
Yes, the same way and I added a thin coat of the Burnt Umber Glazing Stain that I showed, between coats of Shellac. Then the top of the table got an additional coat or two of Lacquer to offer more protection. 👍
If you use air dried walnut, what do you do to ensure there aren’t any bugs?
I am a furniture flipper (don't hate me). I am new to your channel. So, I have a 20s burl walnut hutch. I had originally planned on painting. Once I stripped and sanded I just could not. I am wanting to put the correct finish on it to enhance the wood. I dont want that heavy, almost glass-like, look. I just want a nice satin finish that enhances the wood. can you advise me? what should I use?
How long do shellac flakes last if kept at room temperature in a sealed bag in a cabinet?
Theres a song called button lac. Its catchy
piqued my curiosity so I did a google soich and ............nadda. no song called button lac. 🤥
how durable is a shellac finish?
I love shellac but mine never seems to cure
Takes very little pressure to put finger prints in it or the pattern from my socks when I prop them up on my coffee table (please don't judge me,I build the table,if I want to prop my feet on it I will)
Any idea why I'm getting these problems?
Not just on the coffee table
On everything I use it on.
Could be the shellac your are using is too old. Used to be able to read the date codes on the cans but lately the ones I've seen are are illegible to my eyes. I prefer to mix up my own, use a 1 1/2 to2 lb cut ( I spray) . Make sure it's dried between coats like he said in the video - should get a powder when lightly sanding vs gummy bits. Wil take longer to dry than you think if you are in a humid environment. Also it seems the type of alcohol use matters. Everclear pure ethanol is best if available. Some of the denatured alcohols contain less and less ethanol . the Kleen Strip GREEN label is at least 90% ethanol , the red contains more methanol which doesn't work as well.
So easy to repair down the road. Lightly sand and the new will melt right into the old.
Yes, so good that way too! 👍
Why has mine not cured
it can supposedly get gummy if it gets too old. limited shelf life which is why people mix up the flakes only when they need it.