Note: Many of you will say that 800ml of oil is too much and that you should only use about 720-730ml of oil if you aren't using the oil seep bolt. I get it. I've tried this in the past (only filling with around 720ml of oil) and while that does work, I've also noticed that my oil comes out looking a little more black when I do that. My theory is that a little more oil is better than a little low with these bikes. There is SO VERY LITTLE oil in there anyway, I'd rather have just a touch more than I need as opposed to just a little less than is needed. Since I've done oil changes in this exact manner somewhere around 100 times in the past 8 years, I'm confident that you won't hurt anything with 800 ml of oil. If there was a problem with that much oil, I think I'd have found it by now. If you want to put only put 720m. or 730 ml of oil in the bike, I certainly get it and I won't fault you. I can see that logic and I've tried it many times. It works as well. I just do is thi way because I feel it's worked better for me. Don't fault me for doing what has worked 100 times before :). Leave a single track - Kyle Oh and here is Jay Clark’s video from today talking about using more oil, not less. I shot my video 3 weeks ago and didn’t know he was doing this one. th-cam.com/video/CvYsyzZP-1o/w-d-xo.html
Did my first oil change on my KTM 250 XCW. Used both of the tools you suggested (Pro Funnel and Tokyo Road). BTW, I use your link to purchase my stuff at Rocky Mountain 🙂. Thanks!
You can buy a $5 plastic barbed hose fitting, 1' of vinyl tubing, and a dollar tree measuring cup (with mL makings) and have the same setup for under $10 dollars.
I have a very similar funnel that I picked up from O’Reileys for $5. Not as high quality as this one looks but 8x cheaper. The Tokyo drain tool seems great though
I need that drain tool....so simple. I'm the same on the oil...a lil more is ok. Also I never mess with the oil level screw...learned how delicate they are years ago on the kids KTM'S.
Love your channel mate. Cheers from Australia. I was gonna buy a new KTM300 tpi but decided to get a 97 CR500 for nostalgic purposes. I’ll get a KTM soon though.
800ml assumes the case is dry. I’ve found by using the oil inspection bolt that the correct fill on my TE300i is 725ml. Tokyo Off-road has done a couple videos on this subject as well. Excess fluid leads to excessive drag and can make shifting more difficult.
I've been doing it this way for over 6 years now. Never had a single issue. EVER. Your results may vary, but this is my method and it's worked fantastic.
@@DirtBikeChannel now we’re comparing engine oil to gear oil. And he specifically says you should check with the engine builder but in general, your better off running a 25% low than 25% high in a crankcase to avoid aeration (foamy oil not good). I do agree that there is no need to heat up oil before changing but at the same time I cannot understand why a professional would crank the motor with an empty sump. Again now we’re talking about engine oil. I’ve seems guys run for hours with no gear oil in there KTM before they started smelling clutch
With those drain tubes I have been useing them for 15 years , cost about 2 bucks to make one from a hardware . But they do make life easy and can be used on 4 strokes just a different thread.
I have the Tokyo off-road tool. It's excellent, as is his wheel bearing press. That said I don't use the wheel bearing press as heat and frozen bearings drop in without the need of a press.
Buddy I sure wish I saw this earlier. I got a 22 300xc and that bolt stripped. 2nd oil change and the first time I did it I barely got it finger tight and something didn’t feel right. The 2nd go around not so good ☹️.
Love the motion pro funnel too its so convenient. On my Ktm 4t I just fill the motion pro funnel to the correct measurements and then drop my filter in it to pre soak then as I put the oil in the bike I can reach in the funnel grab my filter and install it its the way to go!
After shipping Tokyo Offroad wanted $63. I purchased mine from Bullet Proof Designs for $27 after shipping. I don't like the Motion Pro Funnel because it looks too wide to get an accurate measurement so I purchased a 1000ml graduated cyclinder from Amazon for $14.
!!!!!!!! Use a self closing hydralic line connection , use a rubber tip to cover the end on the bike. I use a hydralic plug on my drain and fill... my oil changes was fast....
An even better method: I’ve used the drain tool and find that with threads in the drain hole you don’t get quite as much of the old oil out - thus the technique of tilting the bike to get more out. Then you have the drain tool you have to clean or leave the oil residue in. I bought the Form-A-Funnel (the original, not Chinese knock off) and it is sooooo much easier and no need to tilt the bike or set it down on its side. Also, use a magnetic 13mm nut driver when removing the bolt and you have no issues accidentally dropping the drain plug bolt. I have to change oil regularly on 3 bikes and have done both methods. Using the magnetic nut driver with a Form-A-Funnel is hands down a superior method with the most amount of efficiency and time savings. Also, I marked a used quart container on its side with a Sharpie marker at the .85 qts level. I just refill it each time I change the oil to that level and I’m ready to go for the next oil change. Last tip: buy the smaller version (4.75”x9”) of the Form-A-Funnel. It fits just perfect. I think the larger ones are too much. Form-A-Funnel Flexible Draining Tool - Lawn & Garden www.amazon.com/dp/B010BZ26EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_BWB1ETR83B13SYF9DHBD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I like your idea since my 4 stroke EFI bikes don't like to be laid down and are heavy. I work in my garage, not on grass. I'm buying the formafunnel today and returning my $16 drain tool that would work on two few of applications. thanks for the link.
Love my 350 xcf but hate the rear facing drain bolt. Never been a torque wrench addict but trying to use one a little more on the shiny new bike. Can’t get one on the drain bolt. Don’t imagine the drain tool would fit. Do you know if everything will drain just pulling the screen and filter and laying it on its side?
Just be aware that 800ml of oil is from completely empty. I pulled out 700ml of oil on my 21 Husky te250i.. When I added 700ml in, it started coming out the oil weep hole. So if I had added an extra 100ml it may have been a problem with too much oil/head pressure.
Hey Kyle , If you haven't seen or heard ..nice video. My question is can you re-use the crush washer over again and if so how many times ? My bike is Brand New and i was just curios how many times you can do this ? Just for the record i bought 6 new crush washers . So it's not that i'm cheap by any means but maybe we can go 1 ,2 or even 3 oil changes until it has to be replaced .
Normally I'm singing the praises of KTM, that's why I bought one. However, the oil drain plug location is idiotic. I have a skid plate that wraps up the sides a little, so I've got to take it off to change the oil. That drain tube is just what the doctor ordered.
I used Rocky mountain twice in my life and both times they aent me the wrong item and both times it took close to 30 days to return the items and another 2 weeks to get my money back. Rocky Mountain is the absolute worst place to order parts from
You can make it idle, but many won't (I have a YZ250) from the factory. I wouldn't anyway. Just blip it a little and take off and ride easy for a minute or two.
Idling a TPI isn't bad and actually what the manuals states to do when warming up (don't touch throttle). This is because it is oil injected and blipping the throttle will actually dump more oil and cause more fouling. With a carb, my understanding is that idling for a long time is not good because the oil to gas ratio stays the same. So there is too much oil when idling and it can foul plugs and gum up power valves. Hence why people with carb bikes will blip the throttle often when first starting up to burn up excess oil. So I say idle the TPI bikes to operating temp but if it's a carb bike, do a quick initial warm up with some throttle blips and then gently ride around to fully warm up.
@@bobbytaylor2617 Yes you can and it's very common for two strokes to use 4 stroke oil in the gearbox. My two stroke KTM takes Motorex four stroke 15w50. I am going to be trying Bel Ray Gear Saver soon which is specifically a transmission oil and a lot of people claim it provides smoother shifting and less clutch drag (I'm trying it because my clutch drags a bit). So you could also use something like that in a 75w. 75w is my guess for a 10w40 but you can enter your bike in the Bel Ray site and they will recommend which weight to get. Amsoil also makes a similar product "Amsoil Synthetic Dirt Bike Transmission Fluid". When in doubt, just use what the manual suggests.
I got a similar, excellent quality drain tool from NICECNC on Amazon (they make a lot of great quality bike tools, accessories). About 1/2 the price of offroadtokyo's. Brand: NICECNC NICECNC Orange Engine Oil Drain Tool Long ODT Kit Compatible with KTM 250 300 XC XCW EXC TPI 2017-2021, HUSQVARNA 250/300 TC/TE/TX 2017-2021
800 ml is TOO MUCH OIL. 800 ml is if you rebuilt your motor. If you put in 800ml and take out the oil check screw, so much oil will come out you will need to call the EPA to help clean up the oil spill. If you have a new bike and measure the oil that comes out it will be about 680 ml. Try that amount next time, take out the oil check bolt, and a small amount will come out. Which means you’re good to go.
Honestly not removing the oil level bolt is really stupid. If you strip that bolt you shouldn't wrench on anything. Had my ktm 125 exc for 12+ years and you just can't know how much the bike will take. It can differ up to 4dl of oil. YES it can differ that much! 0.7dl is what the bike should take. But if it's a really quick change it might be 0.55dl or 0.6dl. I took the engine down one time. 0.95dl. I once drained it over night, 0.8dl. Honestly much easier to just remove it, i never taken the rear brake spring off and never striped that bolt. Always done by hand even when i was 15 years old!
I agree with Kyle. Just measure the correct amount no need to take that bolt out. This isn't rocket science. As long as you have put in a minimum of 26 ounces your good to go. For some reason even if you had 5 or 6 ounces more in there your it's not going to hurt a thing.
Note: Many of you will say that 800ml of oil is too much and that you should only use about 720-730ml of oil if you aren't using the oil seep bolt. I get it. I've tried this in the past (only filling with around 720ml of oil) and while that does work, I've also noticed that my oil comes out looking a little more black when I do that. My theory is that a little more oil is better than a little low with these bikes. There is SO VERY LITTLE oil in there anyway, I'd rather have just a touch more than I need as opposed to just a little less than is needed. Since I've done oil changes in this exact manner somewhere around 100 times in the past 8 years, I'm confident that you won't hurt anything with 800 ml of oil. If there was a problem with that much oil, I think I'd have found it by now.
If you want to put only put 720m. or 730 ml of oil in the bike, I certainly get it and I won't fault you. I can see that logic and I've tried it many times. It works as well. I just do is thi way because I feel it's worked better for me. Don't fault me for doing what has worked 100 times before :). Leave a single track - Kyle
Oh and here is Jay Clark’s video from today talking about using more oil, not less. I shot my video 3 weeks ago and didn’t know he was doing this one.
th-cam.com/video/CvYsyzZP-1o/w-d-xo.html
What oil do you use?
Yep I agree.
I always just use 800mls those oil check bolts are a pain in the ass!
Summertime. Suns out, guns out Kyle
Did my first oil change on my KTM 250 XCW. Used both of the tools you suggested (Pro Funnel and Tokyo Road). BTW, I use your link to purchase my stuff at Rocky Mountain 🙂. Thanks!
You can buy a $5 plastic barbed hose fitting, 1' of vinyl tubing, and a dollar tree measuring cup (with mL makings) and have the same setup for under $10 dollars.
I have a very similar funnel that I picked up from O’Reileys for $5. Not as high quality as this one looks but 8x cheaper. The Tokyo drain tool seems great though
I need that drain tool....so simple. I'm the same on the oil...a lil more is ok. Also I never mess with the oil level screw...learned how delicate they are years ago on the kids KTM'S.
Good morning, Kyle! 🤙
You might get me into buying some of this stuff for my dirtbike fleet.
Love your channel mate. Cheers from Australia. I was gonna buy a new KTM300 tpi but decided to get a 97 CR500 for nostalgic purposes. I’ll get a KTM soon though.
800ml assumes the case is dry. I’ve found by using the oil inspection bolt that the correct fill on my TE300i is 725ml. Tokyo Off-road has done a couple videos on this subject as well. Excess fluid leads to excessive drag and can make shifting more difficult.
I've been doing it this way for over 6 years now. Never had a single issue. EVER. Your results may vary, but this is my method and it's worked fantastic.
Hey look an expert talking about using more oil rather than less :) th-cam.com/video/CvYsyzZP-1o/w-d-xo.html
@@DirtBikeChannel now we’re comparing engine oil to gear oil. And he specifically says you should check with the engine builder but in general, your better off running a 25% low than 25% high in a crankcase to avoid aeration (foamy oil not good).
I do agree that there is no need to heat up oil before changing but at the same time I cannot understand why a professional would crank the motor with an empty sump. Again now we’re talking about engine oil. I’ve seems guys run for hours with no gear oil in there KTM before they started smelling clutch
What?! Love Tokyo Offroad, but must have missed this product! Thank you
Hi Kyle. Thank you very much for your videos. I always learn something.
With those drain tubes I have been useing them for 15 years , cost about 2 bucks to make one from a hardware .
But they do make life easy and can be used on 4 strokes just a different thread.
does anyone know how to reset the spanner symbol on a 2021 tc 125 after a service?
I have the Tokyo off-road tool. It's excellent, as is his wheel bearing press. That said I don't use the wheel bearing press as heat and frozen bearings drop in without the need of a press.
Buddy I sure wish I saw this earlier. I got a 22 300xc and that bolt stripped. 2nd oil change and the first time I did it I barely got it finger tight and something didn’t feel right. The 2nd go around not so good ☹️.
Love the motion pro funnel too its so convenient. On my Ktm 4t I just fill the motion pro funnel to the correct measurements and then drop my filter in it to pre soak then as I put the oil in the bike I can reach in the funnel grab my filter and install it its the way to go!
very useful tips and "gadgets", thnx V!
What do you do with your funnel when done? How do you clean the oil out? Do you wipe it clean? Spray it clean?
Do something whether it’s right or wrong
Never had an issue with spilling oil with any of my bikes, I use an ice cream pale underneath and pour it directly out of the jug no funnel 👌
After shipping Tokyo Offroad wanted $63. I purchased mine from Bullet Proof Designs for $27 after shipping. I don't like the Motion Pro Funnel because it looks too wide to get an accurate measurement so I purchased a 1000ml graduated cyclinder from Amazon for $14.
Diggin that clutch cover cover
!!!!!!!! Use a self closing hydralic line connection , use a rubber tip to cover the end on the bike. I use a hydralic plug on my drain and fill... my oil changes was fast....
An even better method: I’ve used the drain tool and find that with threads in the drain hole you don’t get quite as much of the old oil out - thus the technique of tilting the bike to get more out. Then you have the drain tool you have to clean or leave the oil residue in. I bought the Form-A-Funnel (the original, not Chinese knock off) and it is sooooo much easier and no need to tilt the bike or set it down on its side. Also, use a magnetic 13mm nut driver when removing the bolt and you have no issues accidentally dropping the drain plug bolt. I have to change oil regularly on 3 bikes and have done both methods. Using the magnetic nut driver with a Form-A-Funnel is hands down a superior method with the most amount of efficiency and time savings. Also, I marked a used quart container on its side with a Sharpie marker at the .85 qts level. I just refill it each time I change the oil to that level and I’m ready to go for the next oil change. Last tip: buy the smaller version (4.75”x9”) of the Form-A-Funnel. It fits just perfect. I think the larger ones are too much.
Form-A-Funnel Flexible Draining Tool - Lawn & Garden www.amazon.com/dp/B010BZ26EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_BWB1ETR83B13SYF9DHBD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I like your idea since my 4 stroke EFI bikes don't like to be laid down and are heavy. I work in my garage, not on grass. I'm buying the formafunnel today and returning my $16 drain tool that would work on two few of applications. thanks for the link.
What train tool was used on the 125 xc? I think the thread size on the 125 is different than the 150/250/300.
I don't know about the rest of you , but I can't find the tool from tokyo offroad. anyone have any hints?
www.tokyooffroad.com/product/oil-drain-tool-kit/
I’m lazy and a tight ass, don’t waste my money on specialty tools lol. Just take bolt out and fill with measuring jug 💥
Love my 350 xcf but hate the rear facing drain bolt. Never been a torque wrench addict but trying to use one a little more on the shiny new bike. Can’t get one on the drain bolt. Don’t imagine the drain tool would fit. Do you know if everything will drain just pulling the screen and filter and laying it on its side?
My 2021 300xc leaks fuel when I completely laid it over on side for first oil change. Any idea why?
Does this drain plug work on a 2008 Ktm 300xc ?? When i looked at Tokyo website they say its 2017
Just be aware that 800ml of oil is from completely empty. I pulled out 700ml of oil on my 21 Husky te250i.. When I added 700ml in, it started coming out the oil weep hole. So if I had added an extra 100ml it may have been a problem with too much oil/head pressure.
Hey Kyle , If you haven't seen or heard ..nice video. My question is can you re-use the crush washer over again and if so how many times ? My bike is Brand New and i was just curios how many times you can do this ? Just for the record i bought 6 new crush washers . So it's not that i'm cheap by any means but maybe we can go 1 ,2 or even 3 oil changes until it has to be replaced .
Maybe a stupid question, but is this process the same for KTM 4 stroke?
We need that kid that makes all the facial expressions to do a video using the drain bolt and a bucket...
Need to get my arm 'calibrated' rofl
Alaye
Thank you
those oil drain tools are like 70 bucks, such a rip off. go on slavens racing, the exact same thing is like 12 bucks, what its actually worth.
Normally I'm singing the praises of KTM, that's why I bought one. However, the oil drain plug location is idiotic. I have a skid plate that wraps up the sides a little, so I've got to take it off to change the oil. That drain tube is just what the doctor ordered.
Go put some hours on that 250 XCW! You're doing yourself a disservice if you don't; it's an incredible bike that gets lost in the world of 300 talk.
🔥🔥nice video
RM ATV is out of the Pro Funnels. For now.
Hey look an expert talking about using more oil rather than less :) th-cam.com/video/CvYsyzZP-1o/w-d-xo.html
I used Rocky mountain twice in my life and both times they aent me the wrong item and both times it took close to 30 days to return the items and another 2 weeks to get my money back. Rocky Mountain is the absolute worst place to order parts from
Nice!
Should a 2 stroke idle??
Yes
You can make it idle, but many won't (I have a YZ250) from the factory. I wouldn't anyway. Just blip it a little and take off and ride easy for a minute or two.
Idling a TPI isn't bad and actually what the manuals states to do when warming up (don't touch throttle). This is because it is oil injected and blipping the throttle will actually dump more oil and cause more fouling. With a carb, my understanding is that idling for a long time is not good because the oil to gas ratio stays the same. So there is too much oil when idling and it can foul plugs and gum up power valves. Hence why people with carb bikes will blip the throttle often when first starting up to burn up excess oil. So I say idle the TPI bikes to operating temp but if it's a carb bike, do a quick initial warm up with some throttle blips and then gently ride around to fully warm up.
Can you use 4 steoke gearbox oil in 2 stroke gearbox, manaul says use yamalube 4 stroke 10-40 but not sure wat to do any help??
@@bobbytaylor2617 Yes you can and it's very common for two strokes to use 4 stroke oil in the gearbox. My two stroke KTM takes Motorex four stroke 15w50. I am going to be trying Bel Ray Gear Saver soon which is specifically a transmission oil and a lot of people claim it provides smoother shifting and less clutch drag (I'm trying it because my clutch drags a bit). So you could also use something like that in a 75w. 75w is my guess for a 10w40 but you can enter your bike in the Bel Ray site and they will recommend which weight to get. Amsoil also makes a similar product "Amsoil Synthetic Dirt Bike Transmission Fluid". When in doubt, just use what the manual suggests.
That’s a stupid place to put a drain plug. Just one reason why I don’t have an orange bike lol
I got a similar, excellent quality drain tool from NICECNC on Amazon (they make a lot of great quality bike tools, accessories). About 1/2 the price of offroadtokyo's.
Brand: NICECNC
NICECNC Orange Engine Oil Drain Tool Long ODT Kit Compatible with KTM 250 300 XC XCW EXC TPI 2017-2021, HUSQVARNA 250/300 TC/TE/TX 2017-2021
Imagine if KTM put the drain bolt on the bottom of the case and also had a sight glass to see how much oil is in the transmission.
Hi
👍🏻
when the video says no views
I like nice
nice tools wrong color oil
First comment
800 ml is TOO MUCH OIL. 800 ml is if you rebuilt your motor. If you put in 800ml and take out the oil check screw, so much oil will come out you will need to call the EPA to help clean up the oil spill. If you have a new bike and measure the oil that comes out it will be about 680 ml. Try that amount next time, take out the oil check bolt, and a small amount will come out. Which means you’re good to go.
I've been doing it this way for over 6 years now. Never had a single issue. EVER.
Honestly not removing the oil level bolt is really stupid. If you strip that bolt you shouldn't wrench on anything. Had my ktm 125 exc for 12+ years and you just can't know how much the bike will take. It can differ up to 4dl of oil. YES it can differ that much! 0.7dl is what the bike should take. But if it's a really quick change it might be 0.55dl or 0.6dl. I took the engine down one time. 0.95dl. I once drained it over night, 0.8dl.
Honestly much easier to just remove it, i never taken the rear brake spring off and never striped that bolt. Always done by hand even when i was 15 years old!
Hey look an expert talking about using more oil rather than less :) th-cam.com/video/CvYsyzZP-1o/w-d-xo.html
I agree with Kyle. Just measure the correct amount no need to take that bolt out. This isn't rocket science. As long as you have put in a minimum of 26 ounces your good to go. For some reason even if you had 5 or 6 ounces more in there your it's not going to hurt a thing.
The brake lever spring makes it super easy to misalign the bolt as you're starting it. I recommend removing it.
.