I have a 2023 gas gas EC250, I follow the starting procedure every time. I ride hard enduro. Medium compression head Coober ECU. I have never had a real problem with this bike. I sealed all electrical connections with liquid tape. I am doing my first top end rebuild at 180 hours. New piston and oil pump. I Am convinced this is the best bike KTM ever made. All my buddies have husky 300. I have never felt the need for more than a 250. I will never sell this bike but I will buy another one😊.😊😊😊
I love how this entire video can be sumed up as: read the damn book! I see people take off all the time on cold bikes and wonder why they're having cylinder issues
Just checked the oil pump output on my 2018 Husky TE300i (Euro bike). The sequence is quite different from the one shown on the video. The pump gives pulses only for a few seconds, giving 1ml of oil. Hence I gave it a go 5 consecutive times and collected the oil in a syringe. What I got was total some 6 ml. My bike has 35 hrs on the clock. These videos are superb - thanks!
I’m experimenting the same results in my 2019 300i. Clicks ONLY while the throttle is held wide open. If I wait 5 seconds and release the pumps stops. I didn’t measure the output but it wasn’t 6ml.
In order to estimate the engine temp, it is good to know that the normal human threshold of pain temperature is about 140F, so when it is uncomfortable to touch the radiator or cylinder bare-handed, that component will be close to 140F.
All anyone says to me is 'ohhh you've got a tpi, it will seize soon' actually making me think now 🤔 but my first hand experience with tpi's has shown they are perfectly reliable.
My 150 does 2.5ml on the priming cycle and 3ml with a modded pump. Easy way to test is just fill the oil tank to the top and run the priming cycle and you can see the oil drop.
Our brand new 2024 SX125 completely lost compression at 10 hours during a motocross race. Turns out the piston had huge chunks out of it above the top ring. The head had cracked. Took to dealer since only 10 hours, they say caused by gas/oil mix (which was exactly what they recommended). We heard the thermostat has gotten stuck on these 24 SX125’s and not put coolant where it needs to go and caused this. Not sure what KtM will do, but this seems to be a huge defect
The value of simplicity should not be ignored. 2-strokes are very simple. Water cooling had big benefit As. EFI/TPI benefits will be neglible if it causes any grief at all. I have never had a carburetor fail. Except for the diaphragm type on weedwhackers. And maybe a float got stuck once. Never was stranded by a bad carb
Very interesting and professional approach, I love your videos. I just did a test on mine and there’s a discrepancy between results, wondering if weather conditions and time of the year can make a difference
With TBI the engine will tend to run cooler compared to TPI as the fuel passes through the crankcases. Also TBI allows you to run premix which I consider more reliable than oil injection.
When I had this bike I was using a GET ECU, which I understand was mapped to inject more oil than the stock TPI, for use with the GET injector relocation kit which I'd also fitted.
@@ccenduro it could mean a cracked fuel filter or a loose clamp, there is also a pressure release valve but i'm not sure it would release bubbles, fill the tank up above half a tank and check where are they coming from..
I took their oil pump and adapted it to a 2004 kawasaki 220 super moto. Honestly electronic oil pump for a 2 stroke, it's about time. Skidoo does it on sleds.
Mark, excellent video as always. What brand of water proof grease do you use for the rim of the oil filter and what do you use to clean the filter when it’s time to do so.
I use BelRay Waterproof grease for the air filter lip. To clean air filters I first use kerosene, let air dry, then use Oxiclean in hot water. This gets them really clean.
Thank you! Also how do you get the internal area around the cylinder head and wire looms and cables so clean. I use simple green but there is still a brown dirt residue. Short of taking a damp rag and rubbing all the interanal area down I don’t know how guys keep that area so clean. Is there a foam or special way to do it. I never pressure wash so I’m at a loss. Any suggestion is appreciated.
Are you asking about draining the 2-stroke oil from the tank and how to clean/replace the oil screen? It's covered in the KTM Repair Manual in the Lubrication Section. The method is to remove the throttle body, remove the oil pump, drain oil from the tank, remove the rubber boot on the bottom of the oil tank and the oil screen will come out of the bottom of the tank.
I enjoy watching your videos and the droll humour too. As a retired motorcycle mechanic and tuner and ex dirt racer from 40 years ago,I'm amazed how much I've learned about modern bikes in the 18 mths since I started riding again.Bought a KTM 2019 300 TPI which had numerous issues which are all resolved now. I'd like to offer a small input for your consideration. I see a label marked E10 unleaded on your bike and have a couple of suggestions. I raced for years on Methanol and petrol and had many issues but was never beaten to get the best results and engine reliability. KTM advises to use unleaded 95 which gives a higher BTU/ml than either E10 95 or unleaded 98. E10 has much lower BTU/ml and requires more fuel to travel the same distance and produces less torque than 95. E10 attracts moisture and cannot be left in the tank for long,especially if not full.The worst effect is on TPI fuel pump and filters so that O rings perish and wreck the pump. Moisture in fuel also promotes organic moulds and blocks the fuel pump screens and both filters too. Lastly unleaded 98 is not good for two strokes as the added Octane boosters and bore cleaning agents and Zinc upper cylinder lubricants are bad for electrodes on NGK TPI plugs,which become contaminated and short out and will not start or run well. EGR codes will appear but after their clearing,a new plug is still required to start again. Lastly the NGK TPI extended tip plug has a 2 degree ignition advance advantage over other recessed Platinum or Palladium plugs,which means more torque and better consumption. Keep up the great reports and tips on riding and bike servicing. RV
I have a first gen tpi and i always warm my bike riding sloly, and i never had a problem. Y have anoder bikes and i use the same procedure to warm them up.
Yes, I always warm my bikes slowly from cold and don't start riding until the engine is warm. This has worked well for my bikes, with good piston and cylinder life.
Great video. Please can you confirm the following. Must you first hold the throttle wide open before connecting the dongle to prime the oil pump or must you connect the oil pipe to the measuring container, connect the wake-up dongle and then open the throttle for 5 seconds and then the pump will activate and run a cycle.
Pleased that you like the video. To start the oil pump priming sequence you must first hold the throttle wide open, then plug in the wake up dongle, wait at least 5 seconds, release the throttle and the sequence should start.
had a guy approach me at a recent ISDE fundraiser ride and say using the choke and letting tpi's idle to warm up was a big no no. it was frosty that morning and i've always followed this procedure even before owning a tpi. its just common sense.
That's because clowns who don't understand how fuel injection works think it makes the bike run lean...like the crankcase pressure doesn't change from the increased air and the ECU doesn't fuel it accordingly.
@@OtisFlint well technically the fuel injected bikes do run a bit leaner than carb. they certainly don't use anywhere near as much oil. but I don't think people realise the eco is constantly adjusting the mixture depending on revs, air temperature, elevation ect. mine is playing up at the moment though. think i'l try a Sherco next and go back to a simple bike without the electronics and sensors
Great video and informative like always. I'll take a carb all that check this check that clean this. Never have to do any of this on carb models. I do agree on starting and warm up method I've seen to many people abuse their bike reving the crap out of their bikes.
My ‘20 TX300i put out 10ml oil in 60 seconds (short pulses). I haven’t seen anyone reporting this much output (usually around 6ml). Thoughts? I did have the dealer update the map summer ‘22
Maybe the updated map injects more oil during the priming sequence (pulse length might be different). Now you have a reference you can monitor it over time. A significant decrease from your reference would typically indicate that the oil pump needs replacing...
In our ride group 4 out of 10 TPI bikes have seized in the last 6 months. One had less than 40 hours. None of us race or abuse our machines. None of us received any help or compensation from the dealer or manufacturer. The typical out of pocket repair cost at the dealership for this failure is $2000-$2400. I believe that cold weather operation is a major factor in these premature failures. Unlike snowmobiles, the oil tank is not enclosed or heated. All the failures indicated seizure on the intake ( cold) side of the piston. This is the side that receives the oil injection. Perhaps using snowmobile 2T oil during cold season is a good idea. I also question the frequent piston replacement suggestions. We have inspected a handful of pistons at 250-300 service hours of trail riding use and found them within spec. One outlier has seen 430 hours and still has good compression and doesn’t smoke. As I recall in your previous video that your own piston looked very serviceable at 150 hours or so. For me a significant drop in compression would indicated replacement time more than a set number of hours. Careful measurement of ring gap and cylinder taper upon disassembly would quantify actual wear. Old habits die hard. There have been significant improvements in metallurgy and production tolerances over the past few decades. Thanks for your video series. You bring an engineer’s perspective to educate and inform the public, a valued perspective.
That’s interesting Garth - I’m in Utah and ride it quite cold weather throughout the winter as well. Beyond snowmobile oil I wonder if there is something else that we could do to protect the motor. I had a thermostat delete but put it back on as my bike would never go about 120 degrees
@@joshhancey3810 In my experience the TPI bikes definitely run cold. My TrailTech radiator fan assembly has a digital gauge. It was common to see the coolant temp drop below 100 degrees Fahrenheit on downhill runs. The bike would act noticeably cold too. Upon disassembly the seized bikes all had oil present, especially around the reed block. I speculate that these motors and cooling systems were not properly developed for cold weather operation. Oil will not lubricate properly at low temperatures and high loads if it has trouble getting past the reed block to the piston and cylinder. All our seizures have been on the cold side of the piston ( intake side). Jeff Slavens has a good video about this. He has fitted multiple temp sensors and also reports cold coolant temps. Jeff recommends blocking off one radiator for cold weather operation. He certainly knows more than me about this subject.
To clean the oil pump without disassembling it, I thought about putting degreaser or brake cleaner in the oil tank and running several cycles like that. Afterward, I would put oil back in the tank and run more cycles, this time with oil, and then reconnect the pump. What do you think? Has anyone already tried something like this? Should i give a try?
I do not have any experience in cleaning these oil pumps and do not know the internal construction, or type of seals used so it's difficult for me to comment on whether doing what you're proposing is safe, or not. If your oil pump has a good number of hours on it and you're concerned about it's performance, my recommendation is to replace it with a new one.
Great video, with the piston change you could do a compression test regally and see if you had any loss, a bit like you oil test you did. like you said if you just potter around on the bike the piston could last way longer than 80 hours
The pump is Mikuni ESOP-04. Has anyone found where to source it - apart from the ridiculously expensive OEM pump from the dealership? It must be installed in a number of other engines...
Is this the standard for all KTM 300 XCWs? I have a 2019 KTM 300 XCW TPI and it is very low 1.1ml. I just purchased this bike used and I am checking it out.
Would you know the oil injection test RATE for the 150TPI? I tested mine at 4.7ml and your test for 300 is 6.3ml? I assume same oil pump so am concerned that i got 4.7ml. Thanks
Got a 2022 TE300 I , want to wake up my ECU for oil priming test , any idea of bridging plug (EURO 5 ) at connector without buying wake up plug , At the moment Husqvarna are out of stock down under
I've just ticked over 35 hrs on my '22 250 TPI bike and I just used the 1st liter of Oil... It worries me that Im running with too little oil. I have understanding that the bike auto regulates itself but how can I be sure?
Hello, love your channel amigo. My 300tpi is ready for it's first top end. The stock oil pump has run with no issues for 100hrs. Do you recommend replacing the pump or should I test and keep the stock pump since I've had no issues?
I would carry on using it if it's working OK. From what I know dirt (it it drops into the oil filler inlet when you take the cap off) is the killer of these oil pumps. As such be careful to wipe away and dirt before removing the filler cap. Starting from the 2020 year model TPI there is an oil screen (filter) on the output of the oil tank which should help protect the oil pump against damage even if dirt and debris get into the oil filler.
From what i've seen the people who are meticulous about tpi warm up procedure including myself do not have any issues. The problem is that most dealers aren't explaining to buyers how critical the warm up procedure is (especially within the break-in period) as well as dirtbike channels online telling people to just hop on the bike and ride it like normal. This results in guys revving the shit out of the bike at warm up and riding it hard cold. Then they're totally surprised when the bike blows up at low hours and they post it online.
I'm careful with warmup with all of my bikes, no matter the technology (carb, or TPI). I never rev the engine hard until it has warmed up. During warmup the clearance between the cylinder and piston may be tighter than normal as the piston will tend to expand faster than the cylinder. This is made worse if the engine is warmed up quickly. IMO one of the worse things you can do for engine wear is the MX style cold start followed by revving the shit out of engine. As such I always aim to warm the engine slowly. Yes it takes a few minutes longer, but you can save a lot of time and money in the long run through extended interval top end rebuilds.
@@TokyoOffroad I couldn’t agree more. I think a majority of the low hour tpi engine failures we see online are due to cold seizure. There needs to be more education on this topic amongst riders and you sir are doing just that. Cheers!
@scannorse a quote from a normal person with common sense! Use common sense when warming up and using the engine & don't unnecessarily Rev the shit out of it for no reason.
Great Video! All the videos are helping me so much with getting to know my 2022 Husky te300i. I just ran 3 oil pump sequences attempting to clear a bubble in my hose.. turns out I should have been working in a better lit shop as it was just a dirt spot on the backside of the hose haha! Would all of that oil just dumped into my throttle body? Should I be disassembling and cleaning prior to starting the bike? Thanks
Great information as always. Recently ran the oil pump test on my 21 GasGas EC300 and got the same results. Curious, when doing a normal priming cycle with the oil line connected, apparently if there are no bubbles, the pump will not run (as seen in another video). Obviously don't want to dump a bunch of oil into the throttle body, but what is the ECU using to prevent excess oil or stopping the pump if prime is not necessary? Thoughts anyone?
My sons 2020 husky150i seized after 9 hours. The dealer has had the bike for over a month and no help in site. Parts on back order. Husky/KTM has not said whether they will help or not. Fingers crossed.
How important is it to clean the oil screen? I have 230 hours on my 2020 and I am on my second oil pump. I have neglected to clean the oil screen when installing the new oil pump(s). thanks Brian
My ktm exc 300 2022 oil pump not woorking, i change with new one and still not working… whats thats problem, i’m check fuse and relay all goods Who have some experience in this case, waht it’s the problem thanks
Did you find the issue. It must be an electrical issue. Check the wiring and connector. If the oil pump isn't working you should see a blink code on the dash display
Is there anything else I need to do when getting the old ECU in there? I swapped back (unknown food ECU) and I don’t have a measuring tube, but it’s not looking good lol
Dear riders, i have 2021 250 Exc Tpi. I tried to make the oil priming with the wake-up connector bought from the dealer (the red and black one) The oil pump did not test/work as in video. I tried more than 40 times with different time intervals 4-7-9-12.....25 seconds. I have the standart ECU. I watched all the videos and read the manual, Did exactly the same. Do you have same oil pump problem? If yes how did you solve?
If your bike is a 2021 TPI with stock ECU it should prime in exactly the same way as shown in the video (set number of pump cycles every time). I suggest you discuss with you KTM dealer.
Anyone tried this with the GET ECU for a set length of time?? I just wanted to compare to what mine is pumping. I believe mine pumped approx 2.75 mL of oil after 2 min of holding the throttle fully open with the dongle plugged in.
Mine had a seize around 80hrs, didn't realise till I took off the pipe off to clean, looked into the cylinder saw the intake side of the cylinder was badly scored
@@TokyoOffroad got the bore honed it was barely saveable, new piston, also put a two stroke performance tune on it for extra oiling. Bike is a 2018. I did the oil pump priming sequence 3.1ml in 30 seconds, yours was over 6ml was that a 1 minute test?
I have a 2019 te250i with the GET ECU, so what is the recommended testing with the get then? What specif time should I be holding the throttle down for and how much oil should I be getting?
Why am so nervous to pull the trigger on a TPI? Case of over researching possibly. I just don’t want to be stuck looking at bike that’s seized, maybe I should just go 4t route?
Depends what riding you're doing. I much prefer 2-strokes for the terrain I ride, but if you ride more open, higher speed a 4-stroke might be a better choice. If you like the TPI then go ahead and buy one. Maintenance is easy and cheap to perform yourself.
Great video and great simple easy and important tips! I've run without a thermostats for years now but my location temps vary from 8c to 35c so have had zero issues but do warm up the bike correctly first. Thanks.
recently bought the 2022 model, 26h in and i had a damaged cylinder head and piston. bike was not used in motorsports, only for casual riding and some soft enduro. any tips on what should i do or check? i tried to contact ktm but they said i only have 1 month warranty after purchase and 1 1/2 months passed since i purchased so my warranty is currently expired.
Chances are that the damage happened during cold start, these tpi bikes can not be revved at all until hot and they take several minutes at idle to warm up depending on outside temp. From what i've seen the people who are meticulous about warm up do not have any issues. Not your fault as there wasn't enough awareness about this to owners until recently.
I just did measurement in 7degrees warm garage ( i dont know how much that will affect the result). I got 5.0-5.9ml, and my bike is EXC 250 TPI 2020, with 300EXC map(gives bit more torque). So i dont know is that good or bad and should i have something different than 6.3ml since bike is 250cc?
How do you keep your bike so spotless? I race every weekend in NorCal and despite all the washing I can’t keep the inside/under the tank anywhere near as clean as yours, very jealous!
I'M DEALING WITH THE 3RD ENGINE SEIZE ON MY 2021 HUSQVARNA TE250i WITH ONLY 11 HOURS AND 48 MINUTES OF RUN TIME. All they have done is try to blame me even though they know these issues exist. None of which were disclosed when purchasing nor were I sent any further information after they started seeing these issues. KTM customer service will not help in any way with parts or labor and instead insist upon it being my fault. None of the 3 dealerships I have taken it to were able to fix it for more than a single ride after it was in their shop. Maybe(highly unlikely) 1 of the 3 were my fault, but logically after the first one I took things very cautiously always and followed the manual! For reference, I am a degreed engineer, have been riding for 17 years, and own 5 other bikes. NO YAMAHA, KAWASAKI, HONDA, SUZUKI, TRIUMPH, ARCTIC CAT, OR SKIDOO I HAVE OWNED/RIDDEN HAS EVER FAILED THIS HARD OR CONSISTANTLY AND THE MANUFACTURER JUST BLAMED ME.
Yes, that's the same as I measured so should be fine to continue using the same oil pump. I would say if the volume drops 10% (below 5.7ml) then it would be a good idea to change the pump. Note that this is not something specified by KTM...
With a GET it will cycle the oil pump as long as you keep the throttle open. As such you need to decide on a time period to do your measurement and keep the throttle open all the time. I prefer the stock ECU priming sequence method for this test, although the GET method is great for just clearing out air bubbles from the hoses after you’ve had it disassembled for maintenance work and means that your throttle body doesn’t get swamped internally with oil.
Anyone tried this with the GET ECU for a set length of time?? I just wanted to compare to what mine is pumping. I believe mine pumped approx 2.75 mL of oil after 2 min of holding the throttle fully open with the dongle plugged in.
Personally I don't know anyone who has seized a TPI, but as mentioned in the video have read about quite a few on Facebook. At this point I'm inclined to believe the information my dealer told me (that the failure rate is relatively low). I'm not disputing that problems occur, but do believe some things can be done to help reduce the chance of a seizure occurring. Hopefully the tips in this video help with this...
@@TokyoOffroad Three main reasons these bikes seize early, 1. running them hard before warmed up properly, 2. dirty air filter 3. using different oils for the oil tank, not sticking with KTM brand. Most seizures are human errors, not mechanical failures. Great video just like all the others you have done!!!
@@kimojon9665 i have a 2011 250sx and have ran either amsoil dominator or interceptor. Depends whats in stock but ive had no issues with it. Runs good in either hot or cold weather. Only issue is fouling plugs but thats mostly fixed after replacing the reed valves.
@@samuelyeet6006 No, the 2017~2021 all KTM EXC and XC-W models are fitted stock with XPLOR forks. The XC and SX models are fitted with AER. Stock the XPLOR forks work well at low speed, but tend to blow through the travel too quickly and don't feel stable at speed. Over the years the valving in XPLOR fork valving has changed with some improvement (2017 was way too soft, 2021 is much better), but I have modified my bikes...
Another great informative video. I have a 2021 300 Tpi, last couple of rides I have noticed the motor bogging on wide open throttle in the power band. Feels like the choke is on (on an old bike) anyone had any issues? No other running issues, stock bike.
That sounds like an issue with the crankcase pressure sensor. Check that the tube which goes from the rear of the cylinder and brass fitting are both clear internally. if that doesn't fix the issue then the pressure sensor has probably gone bad, or you might have a leak. I've made a few videos about the crankcase pressure sensor so please check them out if interested. This one is a good summary: th-cam.com/video/P1IXInpL-P0/w-d-xo.html
The best thing to do is like I did sell that TPI bike and wait till the throttle body comes out 2023 and go on with your life.... Every hard Enduro race of the professionals they stripped that stuff off of their bike and put a carburetor on blocking off the electronics that is a fact none of those hard Enduro championship races are done with TPI that's why they're getting rid of it... it failed way too many times
$12g bike that needs $2g more of engine hop up's and its very own video on "how not to seize"... Yea i'll stick with my Sherco 2t. Best bike out of the box.
They don't actually need anything. Half the people are just idiots and the other half listen to idiots. I've beat the piss outta my TPI and over 120 hard hours.....only issue in all that time was a failed crank case pressure sensor ($45). It's time for a piston but it still runs flawless!
Bro they dont need anything, people just want more power, you act like carb people dont drop 1k on a lectron or smart carb, another 20 hours tuning the bike, and another 1k in other performance parts, it's the same for both of them
I had No idea Lectrons went up $400, i'd laugh at those people too. But some need it I guess. I just tune my Kiehin for free and jet it myself for free and it rides like a champ
@@Madtigertv the smart carb is 1k, the lectron is 600, you can say that but atleast every other bike has one or the other, and then the rest have 100$ JD jet kit in them
@@TokyoOffroad Not yet. He had to go out of town for work and didn't have time. I sense that he is in no hurry and he is bummed that he paid $12k and it seized not even under full throttle. He claims to have done nothing to cause it. I;ll return & update. The fact that KTM abandoned the system after 2 model years is telling.
I have a 2023 gas gas EC250, I follow the starting procedure every time. I ride hard enduro. Medium compression head Coober ECU. I have never had a real problem with this bike. I sealed all electrical connections with liquid tape. I am doing my first top end rebuild at 180 hours. New piston and oil pump. I Am convinced this is the best bike KTM ever made. All my buddies have husky 300. I have never felt the need for more than a 250. I will never sell this bike but I will buy another one😊.😊😊😊
I love how this entire video can be sumed up as: read the damn book! I see people take off all the time on cold bikes and wonder why they're having cylinder issues
RTFM 😁
Yep. Absolutely.
Good tips dude. While there probably are some bikes that seize from defects, the majority of the ones you see are PROBABLY owner failure.
Just checked the oil pump output on my 2018 Husky TE300i (Euro bike).
The sequence is quite different from the one shown on the video. The pump gives pulses only for a few seconds, giving 1ml of oil. Hence I gave it a go 5 consecutive times and collected the oil in a syringe. What I got was total some 6 ml. My bike has 35 hrs on the clock.
These videos are superb - thanks!
I’m experimenting the same results in my 2019 300i. Clicks ONLY while the throttle is held wide open. If I wait 5 seconds and release the pumps stops. I didn’t measure the output but it wasn’t 6ml.
@@98xjroks As said, I repeated it 5 times to get 6 ml.
In order to estimate the engine temp, it is good to know that the normal human threshold of pain temperature is about 140F, so when it is uncomfortable to touch the radiator or cylinder bare-handed, that component will be close to 140F.
True . This is fairly accurate.
I put a brake reservoir sock around the oil filler cap. Keeps the dust and crap out really well.
TPI oil priming sequence volumes
Model/Year - 18/19/20
Cycle - Fast/Slow
Length - 30sec
Approx Output Volume - 1.0ml
Model/Year - 20/21
Cycle - Fast only
Length - 60sec
Approx Output Volume - 5.5ml
Model/Year - some TSP modified maps
Cycle - Fast only
Length - 30sec
Approx Output Volume - 2.7ml
All anyone says to me is 'ohhh you've got a tpi, it will seize soon' actually making me think now 🤔 but my first hand experience with tpi's has shown they are perfectly reliable.
well if they ACTUALLY were.... there wouldn't be 5000 videos of it online. Just like this one. You are just lucky.
People will always talk smack about the things they can't afford 😂 my 2021 has been perfectly reliable.
Great bikes
@@ashflame6888 absolute garbage. TPI'S are reliable. Need to do your maintenance like any enduro bike
@@ashflame6888 qqq
My 150 does 2.5ml on the priming cycle and 3ml with a modded pump. Easy way to test is just fill the oil tank to the top and run the priming cycle and you can see the oil drop.
My 22 300 has done over 100km and 33 hours, no dramas at all.
I did get the extreme map put on, no damage to the bore or piston as far as I can see
50 hours and 1000 km plus, still no issues at all.
What an excellent channel.
The fact videos like this need to be made. Is enough for me to keep riding blue.
Every bike has issues mate. All you need to do is follow the manual.
Non-TPI 2 strokes will come to an end due to Euro 5 you will be lucky to buy a bike.
My yz125 dosent have a thermostat so I made some cardboard cutouts that I can slide in between the rads and rad guards for riding in cold temps
Our brand new 2024 SX125 completely lost compression at 10 hours during a motocross race. Turns out the piston had huge chunks out of it above the top ring. The head had cracked. Took to dealer since only 10 hours, they say caused by gas/oil mix (which was exactly what they recommended). We heard the thermostat has gotten stuck on these 24 SX125’s and not put coolant where it needs to go and caused this. Not sure what KtM will do, but this seems to be a huge defect
The value of simplicity should not be ignored. 2-strokes are very simple. Water cooling had big benefit As. EFI/TPI benefits will be neglible if it causes any grief at all. I have never had a carburetor fail. Except for the diaphragm type on weedwhackers. And maybe a float got stuck once. Never was stranded by a bad carb
Very interesting and professional approach, I love your videos.
I just did a test on mine and there’s a discrepancy between results, wondering if weather conditions and time of the year can make a difference
All this is why I'm sticking with my carb 2016.
I also run the GET ECU and you answered my concerns at minute 12:00. Thank you for the in depth video.
I’ve just checked mine, I’m getting the same measurements as you 6.3 on 2020 300 👍 great information as always
I saw an ant walk across the pipe at @5:08 😂, love your videos
LOL, I thought it was on my screen and was trying to kill it!
Same here.
Nano bot doing maintenance lol
I have always warmed up my 2T bikes while putting on my gear, not hard !
Love your videos, are any of these issues alleviated by TBI instead of TPI?
With TBI the engine will tend to run cooler compared to TPI as the fuel passes through the crankcases. Also TBI allows you to run premix which I consider more reliable than oil injection.
KTM TPI is great the owners manual (as you stated the recommended oil) and maintenance (GREAT VIDEO)!
Be sure you are running much more oil if you have a tbi set up. The fuel washes out oil from the bottom end which happens much less on the tpi set up.
When I had this bike I was using a GET ECU, which I understand was mapped to inject more oil than the stock TPI, for use with the GET injector relocation kit which I'd also fitted.
@TokyoOffroad I did hear you mention swapping over but I think it's an important note for riders with a tbi set up. Also great video.
Also check fuel pressure or bubbles in the tank while running the engine
Yes, I did make a video about TPI fuel pressure testing. It’s another good test to perform periodically…
@@ccenduro it could mean a cracked fuel filter or a loose clamp, there is also a pressure release valve but i'm not sure it would release bubbles, fill the tank up above half a tank and check where are they coming from..
@@ccenduro put a fresh one in anyways.. 👍
I took their oil pump and adapted it to a 2004 kawasaki 220 super moto. Honestly electronic oil pump for a 2 stroke, it's about time. Skidoo does it on sleds.
Great video. I couldn't disagree with a single point, or bit of advice you gave.
Thanks and pleased you enjoyed the video.
Super informative video as always! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Mark, excellent video as always. What brand of water proof grease do you use for the rim of the oil filter and what do you use to clean the filter when it’s time to do so.
I use BelRay Waterproof grease for the air filter lip. To clean air filters I first use kerosene, let air dry, then use Oxiclean in hot water. This gets them really clean.
Thank you! Also how do you get the internal area around the cylinder head and wire looms and cables so clean. I use simple green but there is still a brown dirt residue. Short of taking a damp rag and rubbing all the interanal area down I don’t know how guys keep that area so clean. Is there a foam or special way to do it. I never pressure wash so I’m at a loss. Any suggestion is appreciated.
Great info.
Who else saw the ant @5:05 ?
Me! LOL :-)
Brilliant. Keep up the awesome work mark 🤘🏽🛠⚙️🛴
Thanks Mike! Will do :-)
How to drain the side oil? And replace it with a new one ? Please explain thank you
Are you asking about draining the 2-stroke oil from the tank and how to clean/replace the oil screen? It's covered in the KTM Repair Manual in the Lubrication Section. The method is to remove the throttle body, remove the oil pump, drain oil from the tank, remove the rubber boot on the bottom of the oil tank and the oil screen will come out of the bottom of the tank.
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks very much
I enjoy watching your videos and the droll humour too. As a retired motorcycle mechanic and tuner and ex dirt racer from 40 years ago,I'm amazed how much I've learned about modern bikes in the 18 mths since I started riding again.Bought a KTM 2019 300 TPI which had numerous issues which are all resolved now. I'd like to offer a small input for your consideration. I see a label marked E10 unleaded on your bike and have a couple of suggestions. I raced for years on Methanol and petrol and had many issues but was never beaten to get the best results and engine reliability.
KTM advises to use unleaded 95 which gives a higher BTU/ml than either E10 95 or unleaded 98. E10 has much lower BTU/ml and requires more fuel to travel the same distance and produces less torque than 95. E10 attracts moisture and cannot be left in the tank for long,especially if not full.The worst effect is on TPI fuel pump and filters so that O rings perish and wreck the pump. Moisture in fuel also promotes organic moulds and blocks the fuel pump screens and both filters too.
Lastly unleaded 98 is not good for two strokes as the added Octane boosters and bore cleaning agents and Zinc upper cylinder lubricants are bad for electrodes on NGK TPI plugs,which become contaminated and short out and will not start or run well. EGR codes will appear but after their clearing,a new plug is still required to start again. Lastly the NGK TPI extended tip plug has a 2 degree ignition advance advantage over other recessed Platinum or Palladium plugs,which means more torque and better consumption.
Keep up the great reports and tips on riding and bike servicing. RV
so just use the plain unleaded fuel?
Another great video!!👍👍
Can you make a video on how to clean the oil screen in the oil tank please? 😊😊😊
It shouldn't need cleaned unless you allow dirt in......if you do allow dirt in the screen wont save you because the oil pump WILL fail.
@@tonyt1554 no.. it's a maintenance item for a reason
I have a first gen tpi and i always warm my bike riding sloly, and i never had a problem.
Y have anoder bikes and i use the same procedure to warm them up.
Yes, I always warm my bikes slowly from cold and don't start riding until the engine is warm. This has worked well for my bikes, with good piston and cylinder life.
Great video. Please can you confirm the following. Must you first hold the throttle wide open before connecting the dongle to prime the oil pump or must you connect the oil pipe to the measuring container, connect the wake-up dongle and then open the throttle for 5 seconds and then the pump will activate and run a cycle.
Pleased that you like the video. To start the oil pump priming sequence you must first hold the throttle wide open, then plug in the wake up dongle, wait at least 5 seconds, release the throttle and the sequence should start.
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks
had a guy approach me at a recent ISDE fundraiser ride and say using the choke and letting tpi's idle to warm up was a big no no.
it was frosty that morning and i've always followed this procedure even before owning a tpi. its just common sense.
That's because clowns who don't understand how fuel injection works think it makes the bike run lean...like the crankcase pressure doesn't change from the increased air and the ECU doesn't fuel it accordingly.
@@OtisFlint well technically the fuel injected bikes do run a bit leaner than carb. they certainly don't use anywhere near as much oil. but I don't think people realise the eco is constantly adjusting the mixture depending on revs, air temperature, elevation ect.
mine is playing up at the moment though. think i'l try a Sherco next and go back to a simple bike without the electronics and sensors
Great video and informative like always. I'll take a carb all that check this check that clean this. Never have to do any of this on carb models. I do agree on starting and warm up method I've seen to many people abuse their bike reving the crap out of their bikes.
My ‘20 TX300i put out 10ml oil in 60 seconds (short pulses). I haven’t seen anyone reporting this much output (usually around 6ml). Thoughts? I did have the dealer update the map summer ‘22
Maybe the updated map injects more oil during the priming sequence (pulse length might be different). Now you have a reference you can monitor it over time. A significant decrease from your reference would typically indicate that the oil pump needs replacing...
In our ride group 4 out of 10 TPI bikes have seized in the last 6 months. One had less than 40 hours. None of us race or abuse our machines. None of us received any help or compensation from the dealer or manufacturer. The typical out of pocket repair cost at the dealership for this failure is $2000-$2400. I believe that cold weather operation is a major factor in these premature failures. Unlike snowmobiles, the oil tank is not enclosed or heated. All the failures indicated seizure on the intake ( cold) side of the piston. This is the side that receives the oil injection. Perhaps using snowmobile 2T oil during cold season is a good idea.
I also question the frequent piston replacement suggestions. We have inspected a handful of pistons at 250-300 service hours of trail riding use and found them within spec. One outlier has seen 430 hours and still has good compression and doesn’t smoke. As I recall in your previous video that your own piston looked very serviceable at 150 hours or so. For me a significant drop in compression would indicated replacement time more than a set number of hours. Careful measurement of ring gap and cylinder taper upon disassembly would quantify actual wear. Old habits die hard. There have been significant improvements in metallurgy and production tolerances over the past few decades.
Thanks for your video series. You bring an engineer’s perspective to educate and inform the public, a valued perspective.
@@ccenduro I live in Washington State, USA very near the Canadian border. We ride in the snow 3 months of the year here.
That’s interesting Garth - I’m in Utah and ride it quite cold weather throughout the winter as well. Beyond snowmobile oil I wonder if there is something else that we could do to protect the motor. I had a thermostat delete but put it back on as my bike would never go about 120 degrees
@@joshhancey3810 In my experience the TPI bikes definitely run cold. My TrailTech radiator fan assembly has a digital gauge. It was common to see the coolant temp drop below 100 degrees Fahrenheit on downhill runs. The bike would act noticeably cold too. Upon disassembly the seized bikes all had oil present, especially around the reed block. I speculate that these motors and cooling systems were not properly developed for cold weather operation. Oil will not lubricate properly at low temperatures and high loads if it has trouble getting past the reed block to the piston and cylinder. All our seizures have been on the cold side of the piston ( intake side). Jeff Slavens has a good video about this. He has fitted multiple temp sensors and also reports cold coolant temps. Jeff recommends blocking off one radiator for cold weather operation. He certainly knows more than me about this subject.
To clean the oil pump without disassembling it, I thought about putting degreaser or brake cleaner in the oil tank and running several cycles like that. Afterward, I would put oil back in the tank and run more cycles, this time with oil, and then reconnect the pump. What do you think? Has anyone already tried something like this? Should i give a try?
I do not have any experience in cleaning these oil pumps and do not know the internal construction, or type of seals used so it's difficult for me to comment on whether doing what you're proposing is safe, or not. If your oil pump has a good number of hours on it and you're concerned about it's performance, my recommendation is to replace it with a new one.
What would happen if the dongo for the oil test was just left plugged in?
Great video, with the piston change you could do a compression test regally and see if you had any loss, a bit like you oil test you did. like you said if you just potter around on the bike the piston could last way longer than 80 hours
Great video, very informative
Thanks! Pleased to hear that you found it useful
The pump is Mikuni ESOP-04. Has anyone found where to source it - apart from the ridiculously expensive OEM pump from the dealership? It must be installed in a number of other engines...
I'm curious as well
Malfunction indicator lamp. Error P0650
what should i check?
Is this the standard for all KTM 300 XCWs? I have a 2019 KTM 300 XCW TPI and it is very low 1.1ml. I just purchased this bike used and I am checking it out.
Would you know the oil injection test RATE for the 150TPI? I tested mine at 4.7ml and your test for 300 is 6.3ml? I assume same oil pump so am concerned that i got 4.7ml.
Thanks
Sorry, I don't have any experience doing this test on a 150TPI. Try asking on one of the KTM FB groups.
Got a 2022 TE300 I , want to wake up my ECU for oil priming test , any idea of bridging plug (EURO 5 ) at connector without buying wake up plug , At the moment Husqvarna are out of stock down under
what type of gas do you use. have you experimented with race gas and if so, what type?
I use high octane pump gasoline. No, I don’t use race gas
Very helpful video!
I've just ticked over 35 hrs on my '22 250 TPI bike and I just used the 1st liter of Oil... It worries me that Im running with too little oil. I have understanding that the bike auto regulates itself but how can I be sure?
My sequence runs for exactly 30 seconds and then stops.
Hello, love your channel amigo. My 300tpi is ready for it's first top end. The stock oil pump has run with no issues for 100hrs. Do you recommend replacing the pump or should I test and keep the stock pump since I've had no issues?
I would carry on using it if it's working OK. From what I know dirt (it it drops into the oil filler inlet when you take the cap off) is the killer of these oil pumps. As such be careful to wipe away and dirt before removing the filler cap. Starting from the 2020 year model TPI there is an oil screen (filter) on the output of the oil tank which should help protect the oil pump against damage even if dirt and debris get into the oil filler.
Its not easy to find good trusted advice now days. Thank you very much!
From what i've seen the people who are meticulous about tpi warm up procedure including myself do not have any issues. The problem is that most dealers aren't explaining to buyers how critical the warm up procedure is (especially within the break-in period) as well as dirtbike channels online telling people to just hop on the bike and ride it like normal. This results in guys revving the shit out of the bike at warm up and riding it hard cold. Then they're totally surprised when the bike blows up at low hours and they post it online.
I'm careful with warmup with all of my bikes, no matter the technology (carb, or TPI). I never rev the engine hard until it has warmed up. During warmup the clearance between the cylinder and piston may be tighter than normal as the piston will tend to expand faster than the cylinder. This is made worse if the engine is warmed up quickly. IMO one of the worse things you can do for engine wear is the MX style cold start followed by revving the shit out of engine. As such I always aim to warm the engine slowly. Yes it takes a few minutes longer, but you can save a lot of time and money in the long run through extended interval top end rebuilds.
@@TokyoOffroad I couldn’t agree more. I think a majority of the low hour tpi engine failures we see online are due to cold seizure. There needs to be more education on this topic amongst riders and you sir are doing just that. Cheers!
@@SkylarRace A quote from the design department: “we have make a bad product, so we just need to educate the customers to take extra care”…..
@@scannorse🤡
@scannorse a quote from a normal person with common sense! Use common sense when warming up and using the engine & don't unnecessarily Rev the shit out of it for no reason.
Wait a minute, how come it has the kock start on it?
I added a kick starter: th-cam.com/video/ahMDgjBUAdc/w-d-xo.html
Top vidio,explains really well,I will be doing a piston change on my tpi 300 2019 and I will follow he vidio to the latter .👍
That and on the exhaust at 5:05 is killing me 😆
Great Video! All the videos are helping me so much with getting to know my 2022 Husky te300i. I just ran 3 oil pump sequences attempting to clear a bubble in my hose.. turns out I should have been working in a better lit shop as it was just a dirt spot on the backside of the hose haha! Would all of that oil just dumped into my throttle body? Should I be disassembling and cleaning prior to starting the bike? Thanks
My husqvarna te 250i 2018 eu is giving me 0,9-1mm of oil x cycle (low-fast, 30 seconds)
As long as there's no air in the line it should be, right?
Yes, if there's no air bubbles in the line it's fine...
@@TokyoOffroad thanks for replying
Great information as always. Recently ran the oil pump test on my 21 GasGas EC300 and got the same results. Curious, when doing a normal priming cycle with the oil line connected, apparently if there are no bubbles, the pump will not run (as seen in another video). Obviously don't want to dump a bunch of oil into the throttle body, but what is the ECU using to prevent excess oil or stopping the pump if prime is not necessary? Thoughts anyone?
My sons 2020 husky150i seized after 9 hours. The dealer has had the bike for over a month and no help in site. Parts on back order. Husky/KTM has not said whether they will help or not. Fingers crossed.
How important is it to clean the oil screen? I have 230 hours on my 2020 and I am on my second oil pump. I have neglected to clean the oil screen when installing the new oil pump(s). thanks Brian
my 2020 te300i runs for 30 sec and yeilds 2 ml. Thoughts on this?
My ktm exc 300 2022 oil pump not woorking, i change with new one and still not working… whats thats problem, i’m check fuse and relay all goods
Who have some experience in this case, waht it’s the problem thanks
Did you find the issue. It must be an electrical issue. Check the wiring and connector. If the oil pump isn't working you should see a blink code on the dash display
i didnt geta wakeup dongle with my 2022 ec 250 gas gas?? would a dealer sell me one?
Yes, have a chat with your dealer about it. I'd ask whether your bike should've been supplied with one...
70+ hrs on my '22 250xc not a single hiccup
Is there anything else I need to do when getting the old ECU in there? I swapped back (unknown food ECU) and I don’t have a measuring tube, but it’s not looking good lol
No, there’s nothing special you need to do when swapping ECUs. On my 2021 I swapped between the GET and stock ECU with no problems.
Dear riders, i have 2021 250 Exc Tpi. I tried to make the oil priming with the wake-up connector bought from the dealer (the red and black one) The oil pump did not test/work as in video. I tried more than 40 times with different time intervals 4-7-9-12.....25 seconds. I have the standart ECU. I watched all the videos and read the manual, Did exactly the same.
Do you have same oil pump problem? If yes how did you solve?
If your bike is a 2021 TPI with stock ECU it should prime in exactly the same way as shown in the video (set number of pump cycles every time). I suggest you discuss with you KTM dealer.
Anyone tried this with the GET ECU for a set length of time?? I just wanted to compare to what mine is pumping. I believe mine pumped approx 2.75 mL of oil after 2 min of holding the throttle fully open with the dongle plugged in.
Ive heard that when bike has no oil engine will shut off automatically
Mine had a seize around 80hrs, didn't realise till I took off the pipe off to clean, looked into the cylinder saw the intake side of the cylinder was badly scored
That's too bad. Intake side scoring could be due to dirt ingestion. What did you do?
@@TokyoOffroad got the bore honed it was barely saveable, new piston, also put a two stroke performance tune on it for extra oiling. Bike is a 2018.
I did the oil pump priming sequence 3.1ml in 30 seconds, yours was over 6ml was that a 1 minute test?
@@Huda88754 his test ran for about 33s in this video
@@Huda88754 - I just checked the raw video and the KTM stock 2021 ECU oil priming sequence lasted exactly 1 minute.
Number one place I get a good Information
I have a 2019 te250i with the GET ECU, so what is the recommended testing with the get then? What specif time should I be holding the throttle down for and how much oil should I be getting?
Excellent advise!
Why am so nervous to pull the trigger on a TPI? Case of over researching possibly. I just don’t want to be stuck looking at bike that’s seized, maybe I should just go 4t route?
Depends what riding you're doing. I much prefer 2-strokes for the terrain I ride, but if you ride more open, higher speed a 4-stroke might be a better choice. If you like the TPI then go ahead and buy one. Maintenance is easy and cheap to perform yourself.
I blip my throttle during warm up. It helps seat the piston rings
"Always run the engine warm at low speed" This hurts my brain
Great video and great simple easy and important tips! I've run without a thermostats for years now but my location temps vary from 8c to 35c so have had zero issues but do warm up the bike correctly first. Thanks.
Where did you get the grip sticker frame saver?
It's KTM power parts. Purchased from my local KTM shop
which is the amount of oil consumed per 1 liter of gasoline?
80:1 average ratio with TPI
recently bought the 2022 model, 26h in and i had a damaged cylinder head and piston. bike was not used in motorsports, only for casual riding and some soft enduro. any tips on what should i do or check? i tried to contact ktm but they said i only have 1 month warranty after purchase and 1 1/2 months passed since i purchased so my warranty is currently expired.
Chances are that the damage happened during cold start, these tpi bikes can not be revved at all until hot and they take several minutes at idle to warm up depending on outside temp. From what i've seen the people who are meticulous about warm up do not have any issues. Not your fault as there wasn't enough awareness about this to owners until recently.
I just did measurement in 7degrees warm garage ( i dont know how much that will affect the result). I got 5.0-5.9ml, and my bike is EXC 250 TPI 2020, with 300EXC map(gives bit more torque). So i dont know is that good or bad and should i have something different than 6.3ml since bike is 250cc?
How do you keep your bike so spotless? I race every weekend in NorCal and despite all the washing I can’t keep the inside/under the tank anywhere near as clean as yours, very jealous!
I washed it before making the video. It looks a lot cleaner on video than it actually is! ;-)
Lil ant riding the gnar (top pipe mount) at 5:06 !
I'M DEALING WITH THE 3RD ENGINE SEIZE ON MY 2021 HUSQVARNA TE250i WITH ONLY 11 HOURS AND 48 MINUTES OF RUN TIME. All they have done is try to blame me even though they know these issues exist. None of which were disclosed when purchasing nor were I sent any further information after they started seeing these issues. KTM customer service will not help in any way with parts or labor and instead insist upon it being my fault. None of the 3 dealerships I have taken it to were able to fix it for more than a single ride after it was in their shop. Maybe(highly unlikely) 1 of the 3 were my fault, but logically after the first one I took things very cautiously always and followed the manual! For reference, I am a degreed engineer, have been riding for 17 years, and own 5 other bikes. NO YAMAHA, KAWASAKI, HONDA, SUZUKI, TRIUMPH, ARCTIC CAT, OR SKIDOO I HAVE OWNED/RIDDEN HAS EVER FAILED THIS HARD OR CONSISTANTLY AND THE MANUFACTURER JUST BLAMED ME.
Sorry to hear about the problem. What was replaced after the first seizure? Has the oil injection been tested and working OK?
Hi! I did the test and I am getting 6.3ml , is it ok to keep running the same oil pump? At what lower amount should I change it?
Yes, that's the same as I measured so should be fine to continue using the same oil pump. I would say if the volume drops 10% (below 5.7ml) then it would be a good idea to change the pump. Note that this is not something specified by KTM...
How much oil did the Get ecu dispense?
With a GET it will cycle the oil pump as long as you keep the throttle open. As such you need to decide on a time period to do your measurement and keep the throttle open all the time. I prefer the stock ECU priming sequence method for this test, although the GET method is great for just clearing out air bubbles from the hoses after you’ve had it disassembled for maintenance work and means that your throttle body doesn’t get swamped internally with oil.
Anyone tried this with the GET ECU for a set length of time?? I just wanted to compare to what mine is pumping. I believe mine pumped approx 2.75 mL of oil after 2 min of holding the throttle fully open with the dongle plugged in.
Chances are fairly low ?? There were 3 people in my group of riders that experienced the engine sized seems like a lot for one location
Wow! I personally don’t know anyone who has experienced a TPI seizure, my dealer told me that the actual seize rate is in the low single digits…
Another great one!
Good video as always. But I’m finding it suspicious, this is like the 3rd video I’ve seen on this, yet “failure rate is low”......
Eh everyone wants a video to make about some ‘critical flaw’ with a certain brand. There is buzz about it rn.
Personally I don't know anyone who has seized a TPI, but as mentioned in the video have read about quite a few on Facebook. At this point I'm inclined to believe the information my dealer told me (that the failure rate is relatively low). I'm not disputing that problems occur, but do believe some things can be done to help reduce the chance of a seizure occurring. Hopefully the tips in this video help with this...
@@TokyoOffroad Three main reasons these bikes seize early, 1. running them hard before warmed up properly, 2. dirty air filter 3. using different oils for the oil tank, not sticking with KTM brand. Most seizures are human errors, not mechanical failures. Great video just like all the others you have done!!!
@@kimojon9665 i have a 2011 250sx and have ran either amsoil dominator or interceptor. Depends whats in stock but ive had no issues with it. Runs good in either hot or cold weather. Only issue is fouling plugs but thats mostly fixed after replacing the reed valves.
@@kimojon9665 wrong wrong wrong
That's a 2021? What forks are those?
XPLOR forks, but I'm using Dingo Racing fork guards on the tubes: dingoracingproducts.com/
@@TokyoOffroad do you prefer the Xplor forks? I just thought all 20 and up had AER
@@samuelyeet6006 No, the 2017~2021 all KTM EXC and XC-W models are fitted stock with XPLOR forks. The XC and SX models are fitted with AER. Stock the XPLOR forks work well at low speed, but tend to blow through the travel too quickly and don't feel stable at speed. Over the years the valving in XPLOR fork valving has changed with some improvement (2017 was way too soft, 2021 is much better), but I have modified my bikes...
ANTS ARE TAKING OVER YOUR BIKE!!!!! 5:06min lol
Another great informative video.
I have a 2021 300 Tpi, last couple of rides I have noticed the motor bogging on wide open throttle in the power band. Feels like the choke is on (on an old bike) anyone had any issues? No other running issues, stock bike.
That sounds like an issue with the crankcase pressure sensor. Check that the tube which goes from the rear of the cylinder and brass fitting are both clear internally. if that doesn't fix the issue then the pressure sensor has probably gone bad, or you might have a leak. I've made a few videos about the crankcase pressure sensor so please check them out if interested. This one is a good summary: th-cam.com/video/P1IXInpL-P0/w-d-xo.html
1% premix in the tank as a preventative measure is my cheap insurance.
The best thing to do is like I did sell that TPI bike and wait till the throttle body comes out 2023 and go on with your life.... Every hard Enduro race of the professionals they stripped that stuff off of their bike and put a carburetor on blocking off the electronics that is a fact none of those hard Enduro championship races are done with TPI that's why they're getting rid of it... it failed way too many times
thanks so much!!!
$12g bike that needs $2g more of engine hop up's and its very own video on "how not to seize"... Yea i'll stick with my Sherco 2t. Best bike out of the box.
Agreed!! Lol
They don't actually need anything. Half the people are just idiots and the other half listen to idiots. I've beat the piss outta my TPI and over 120 hard hours.....only issue in all that time was a failed crank case pressure sensor ($45). It's time for a piston but it still runs flawless!
Bro they dont need anything, people just want more power, you act like carb people dont drop 1k on a lectron or smart carb, another 20 hours tuning the bike, and another 1k in other performance parts, it's the same for both of them
I had No idea Lectrons went up $400, i'd laugh at those people too. But some need it I guess. I just tune my Kiehin for free and jet it myself for free and it rides like a champ
@@Madtigertv the smart carb is 1k, the lectron is 600, you can say that but atleast every other bike has one or the other, and then the rest have 100$ JD jet kit in them
My buddy just seized his 300 on Sunday.
Sorry to hear that. Do you know the cause?
@@TokyoOffroad Not yet. He had to go out of town for work and didn't have time. I sense that he is in no hurry and he is bummed that he paid $12k and it seized not even under full throttle. He claims to have done nothing to cause it. I;ll return & update. The fact that KTM abandoned the system after 2 model years is telling.