Hey Luke! American here. Thank you to you and the guys for helping spread the platform to different regions. I have now started looking for the perfect donor car for a w108/w109 project that I plan to do an om606 in. Without these videos I probably would have a hard time getting good information on these engines considering they weren't all that common here in the states. Thanks guys, and I look forward to receiving parts from you guys over the next couple of years!
Very pedagogical explanation, love your enthusiasm and these informative videos! Getting excited to start a diesel project before this fuel becomes a controlled substance 🤐
Very good video well explained. I used a Hartridge. Machine 56 yrs ago at the technical college we did all the tests etc Including phasing and calibrating the in line pumps. Also stripping pumps and repairing to the required high standard which was req.
on my cummins P7100 return line i have a holley gas 10an fuel pressure regulator with boost port of a carbureted turbocharged engine and it works perfect stays right at 30psi (2.07 bar) 👍
It’s the same with new GDI engines as well. Boosting low side pressure increases the delta so the high side is much higher and that’s with a factory high side pump.
Liquid filled pressure gauges may give you false readings, depending on application. Density of the liquid filling changes with temperature, and in a hot engine bay will give you a different reading than in a controlled environment.
I recently purchased 2003 Case IH JX95, made in Turkey, with a Bosch VE injection pump and an Iveco 4 cylinder engine. I can provide model numbers if you are able to respond to this post. It only has 375 hours on it. The most unfortunate part of the fuel system design is the fuel tank is well below the injection pump and there is no fuel pump supplying pressure. It depends on a siphon system to supply fuel. So I took the tractor out for it's first real bit of work yesterday. At road speed, high speed/high gear on an incline the engine was definitely searching for more fuel. I was wondering if installing a cheap electrical inline fuel pump would help my situation. For my background I am a degreed automation engineer with a career in the oil & gas industry. But I live on the family farm with my late father being a lifelong farm who always said there wasn't a tractor worth anything unless the fuel delivery was increased from the factory. I know he somehow increased the fuel delivery(with help from a local mechanic...who has also passed) to our pulling tractors. One was a White 105, another was an Allis Chalmers and another was our Ford TW-25. All tractors from the 1970s and 1980s. This same pump also has a leak. It appears to be between the hydraulic head and the body. Perhaps the o-ring needs replaced. It it possible to remove and reinstall the hydraulic head with the pump still mounted on the tractor? Or do I need to remove the injection pump to perform this task in a vertical orientation.?
Is it possible to use a MAP sensor as a fuel pressure sensor? I don't see why not, tbh. I'm only worried the materials in the MAP sensor could react badly with the fuel. I'd have to open one up and check, or try to find out what kind of elastomer the diaphragm in the sensor is made of. It's not a problem for me to connect it electrically as I'm an automation engineer. It's just a 5v supply, grond and a 0-5V signal that is 2,5V at atmospheric pressure. I want to do this because I want to check my fuel presure while driving, and also check if there is a vacuum because my electric fuel pump is dynamically controlled and comes on and off by itself. I also want to build an auto start system that inhibits starting before my veg oil fuel has reached a proper pressure at the pump.
Would be worth pointing out that putting positive fuel pressure in front your injection pump isnt always a great idea... For any pump with a built in (fuel pressure controlled) dynamic timing system (So basically any modern rotary pump (VE etc), this is a bad idea, the second you add pressure, you will mess up this timing curve (Add a bunch of timing at idle / lower demand where you dont want it).... Worth mensioning as I have seen many of times on customers vehicles where a "performance fuel pump" has been added inline to there VE pump supply line, and then the engine sounds like a bag of nails...purely because the pump just runs at max timing 24/7.... For pumps like the VE, the key to higher rpm power lies with restrictions in multiple places in the body, and the plunger return setup AND fuel restriction...You CAN (and need to) add a pump, but other modifications are required at the same time. Personally I wouldnt generally drill out a return fitting, its largely there to purge air and provide a small ammount of fuel flow for cooling.... If you are having to drill out your return restrictor, you are somewhat defeating the point in adding more inlet flow? Would be better to fit a (decent) fuel pressure regulator on the inlet side, with its own return to tank...that way you can run as big a pump as you want, and set the inlet pressure to be constant, largely regardless to demand.... and you arnt wasting perfectly good flow going right through the pump and down the return.... If the pump wants 100% lift pump flow, the regulator will just shut its return right off to try and maintain inlet pressure. Just a few thoughts that may be helpful to a few people....
I JUST finished messing with my mechanical VE pump on my ‘97 AAZ 1.9td VW. I made a pressure gauge adapted to the head of another out bolt, suspecting my pump is a tad weak. From what the internet and forums say, I was about 5 psi less at 1000rpm and about 10 @ 2k rpm. So i took a punch and hammer and knocked the fuel pressure regulating pin in a hair, and the car seemed to respond well, the pressure increased a bit to supposed normal spec, but it sounds like a bag of nails. I rebuilt the engine, ported the cylinder head with freshened up valve grind and seats, added an intercooler setup, yet to de-restrict the exhaust, but the car’s final issues I feel lie in the pump. The real doozie is that with the same pedal travel in the same gear, with the car in the same load, even with the engine and turbo heat-soaked, it’ll suddenly be a different car, it springs to life and actually has TORQUE and pulls like a freight train. I’m at a loss.
Mercedes m pumps don’t actually have any timing control, the gear on the front of the pump has a centrifugal mechanism that advances timing with more rpm,
@@darrenjlobb any idea on what this surge of power and torque might come from on an old VE pump diesel? I know I’m “that guy” on youtube, but you look like you know these pumps more. No one has got a clue that I’ve asked, people just say take it to a shop
On VE pumps be careful with inlet pressure changes and drilling out return banjo bolt restrictions as these are both instrumental in advance curve, the regulator setting as set by the plug above is a max setting, the pressure rise curve is dependent on rpm and bleed rate back to tank which moves timing piston as pressure rises, this can be altered by low pressure pump wear ( for those that don't know its at the front of injection pump) causing slower rise rate or blocked return orifice screen or orifice itself or someone replacing banjo bolt with different orifice size ( smaller or larger)or drilling out etc, as pump rpm increases so does fuel volume which causes a rise in pressure,when due to bleed rate thru orifice it can't return to tank fast enough as well as what is actually being delivered to the injectors factored in and the advance piston pushes the cam ring advancing injection, usually 1 of two scenarios happen, LP pump wears and inj timing retarded thru whole or part of range or orifice incorrect and advances too soon ( too small) and runs hot, or lays down in top end (too big) from not enough advance, If your pump static timing is correct ( usually done by plunger travel method) and is running hot at high rpm but not blowing black smoke and Max regulated pressure is in spec then most likely running too far advanced from return restriction, if you have a spare return banjo bolt try running a ever so slightly larger hole and see if the running hot changes to a higher rpm or goes away ( assuming return lines are clear and tank not over pressuring) this is/ was a huge issue with Toyota 1HZ mechanical pumps and some 5L pumps, Toyota had revised return banjo bolts thru Denso dealer program when correctly diagnosed this also sometimes lead to over injection on stop start driving and oil sludging from fuel contamination in oil
HI! Nice video! I have a OM-314 engine with Bosch PEs4a90d diesel pump in my old Ford F-100. Is it possible to change the elements of my pump to achieve more power?. I really like my mercedes engine, but it's slow. Thanks from Brazil
hello luke you make those 8.5 sound awesome do they come in all your pumps w anti jerk and if so in which one or how do i look it up in your website, looking to purchase one would like to know if its still driveable on daily conditions or would it burn a lot of diesel looking to build some around (400-450)
So what your saying is the fuel pump is sucking the fuel out of the fuel lines. What if you had bigger fuel lines.? Almost like the IP needs a reservoir/surge tank on top of it
vovlvo fl6 used 24 volt 044 eqiv on a bosch 044 from factory,and funnily enough didnt have same failure issues like the transits which either doid not have alift puymp or flowed the fuel back through the pump and these pumps need flow for coolong
why not use a spring type return bolt with an m12 to m14 adapter and have as good as constant pressure? like the bosch ....000 (1,5 bar) or ... 089 ( 3 bar) . The internal pressure (as small as it is in an in line pump) doesn't even have any influence to wear of the element, fuel quality does! return bolts with a calibrated hole only have their use in VE-type pumps where different internal pressure is needed for mechanical timing.... nice little bench btw . ( i operate eps 711, eps 815 , AVM2 , hartridge 400 , and multiple others for cr). Kind regards
I don´t get it; bmw 318s and 325s for instance do not have a supply pump; the FI pump creates the internal pressure (which we can manipulate), the line is under suction; what pump is that on the video?
@@Mekzuc91 but you need flow to maintain pressure, it no good having 1000 psi closed pressure only to drop to 1psi when the taps open. The pump is going to raise the fuel to the required injector pressure but the pump needs an adequate flow rate to do that.
@@WhiskeyGulf71 you said it in your first line. You need flow to maintain pressure. Therefore if pressure doesn't drop bellow spec it means flow hasn't been compromised. If pressure did drop it would indicate flow isn't adequate.
hellooooo , i have put an om606 with om 603 injectionpump 5.5 mm , how many hp can i get out of the om 606 with stock turno now ? thx and luv youre videos
yes i chased fuel pressure problems for years,now wherever possible i use holley blue or bosch 044 depending on how much lift pump pressure i need,i worked at united fuel injection in perth WA and i was the first there to fit elec lift pumps to vehilces,some idiots are trying to say i cant use an 044 on a bosch p pump which i have fitted to a mercedes truck without issues
@@rod5262 i dont agree with the assumtion it should not go over 45 psi in video,tractor pullers,diesel drag race etc routinely run 120psi+ into P pump,driveability issues aint an issue to them though LOL
So interesting this wish you could help me a with my crappy Delphi pump on my focus ST can’t get enough fuel now it’s maxed out no one wants to know 😢😢
@@DieselPumpUK i want a properly built pump but dont know a trustworthy guy that could build it. I will try to build one myself, but i know its wont be that good becouse i dont have the equipmeant and knowledge.
I have both Powershot LPG injection and a Snow Performance water/meth injection(dont use LPG and water/meth at the same time!) on my highly modified Nissan Patrol turbo diesel. Water/meth kit gives you more power than using the LPG kit. Cheers!
@@antoniotod9614 no not the sound. But you can clearly see a reduction in black smoke, when the water/meth injection kicks in, not so much with LPG actually.
Hello guys. I have a om 604 all stock. I pretend to put a turbo on it. Haw many HP and nm can i extract from stock internals and 7.5 mm om601 Pump ??( C220 d 2.2l om604 95 HP N/A)
But why do you read 2 bar at the test bench and 1 bar on the pump with no flow (blocked return port on pump)? The pressure with no flow should be the same. I think you need to open the breater rubber walve on the top off the pressure gauge.
a guy with a flow bench should know inlet pressure doesnt matter. flow is all thats required. pressure is merely the restriction to that flow, which we know is there. because its the fuel pump.
@@Diesel8290 no. the elements are empty, a void. when they open atmospheric pressure, which is all around us all the time, will be happy to do the work for you. Thats why when you knock over a glass of water, it spills. You dont need to pump it out. You guys have some VERY basic misunderstandings of how things work.
This is garbage. You cannot, cannot feed more fuel into an older mechanical pump with no return line. Makes zero difference. Intact forcing more fuel into those pumps without a return damages them.
Wow just became aware of that peculiar noise of OM diesel engines comes from the mechanical pump! Very nice! Thanks
Same, I literally just came here to comment this, who knew I always thought it was knock
Hey Luke! American here. Thank you to you and the guys for helping spread the platform to different regions. I have now started looking for the perfect donor car for a w108/w109 project that I plan to do an om606 in. Without these videos I probably would have a hard time getting good information on these engines considering they weren't all that common here in the states. Thanks guys, and I look forward to receiving parts from you guys over the next couple of years!
Very pedagogical explanation, love your enthusiasm and these informative videos! Getting excited to start a diesel project before this fuel becomes a controlled substance 🤐
I would suggest a bypass pressure regulator on the feed pump. Due you recommend to fit accumulators as shock dampers?
You need a BAP for the lift pump. Great videos Luke. You got some great teaching talent.
you can also upgrade the spring in the stock lift pump instead ;)
Very good video well explained.
I used a Hartridge.
Machine 56 yrs ago at the technical college we did all the tests etc
Including phasing and
calibrating the in line pumps.
Also stripping pumps and repairing to the
required high standard
which was req.
It always amazes me as I start to find out that people don't understand that as fuel pressure raises then injector sizing increases
Any chance you could test a Bosch P7100 pump for us? I'm running my P-pump at 30psi with an adjustable Fass fuel regulator instead of the banjo bolt
I run 30psi at idle and 40psi going down the road. I think you can safely run 60psi
Great comprehensive tutorial!
Love it!!
That’s awesome
Now I have a VE pump on a td42 is this something that can be done ?
I will second this question for the td42 ve pump
holley blue,14psi inlet max pressure
on my cummins P7100 return line i have a holley gas 10an fuel pressure regulator with boost port of a carbureted turbocharged engine and it works perfect stays right at 30psi (2.07 bar) 👍
I love these informational videos! Would you mind making one in how the mechanical advance works?
It’s the same with new GDI engines as well. Boosting low side pressure increases the delta so the high side is much higher and that’s with a factory high side pump.
thats how all "pumps" work. there is always a pressure ratio. higher the inlet. higher the outlet.
Liquid filled pressure gauges may give you false readings, depending on application. Density of the liquid filling changes with temperature, and in a hot engine bay will give you a different reading than in a controlled environment.
okay, here's a question. are you going to stroke the crank on a pump like a certain swedish maker's superpumps? is there much benefit to that?
I recently purchased 2003 Case IH JX95, made in Turkey, with a Bosch VE injection pump and an Iveco 4 cylinder engine. I can provide model numbers if you are able to respond to this post. It only has 375 hours on it. The most unfortunate part of the fuel system design is the fuel tank is well below the injection pump and there is no fuel pump supplying pressure. It depends on a siphon system to supply fuel. So I took the tractor out for it's first real bit of work yesterday. At road speed, high speed/high gear on an incline the engine was definitely searching for more fuel.
I was wondering if installing a cheap electrical inline fuel pump would help my situation.
For my background I am a degreed automation engineer with a career in the oil & gas industry. But I live on the family farm with my late father being a lifelong farm who always said there wasn't a tractor worth anything unless the fuel delivery was increased from the factory. I know he somehow increased the fuel delivery(with help from a local mechanic...who has also passed) to our pulling tractors. One was a White 105, another was an Allis Chalmers and another was our Ford TW-25. All tractors from the 1970s and 1980s.
This same pump also has a leak. It appears to be between the hydraulic head and the body. Perhaps the o-ring needs replaced. It it possible to remove and reinstall the hydraulic head with the pump still mounted on the tractor? Or do I need to remove the injection pump to perform this task in a vertical orientation.?
DPUK. Would look like to see how your test bed would work on a Landy 300Tdi ? What could be achieved on the 4 pots ! V
Is it possible to use a MAP sensor as a fuel pressure sensor? I don't see why not, tbh. I'm only worried the materials in the MAP sensor could react badly with the fuel. I'd have to open one up and check, or try to find out what kind of elastomer the diaphragm in the sensor is made of. It's not a problem for me to connect it electrically as I'm an automation engineer. It's just a 5v supply, grond and a 0-5V signal that is 2,5V at atmospheric pressure. I want to do this because I want to check my fuel presure while driving, and also check if there is a vacuum because my electric fuel pump is dynamically controlled and comes on and off by itself. I also want to build an auto start system that inhibits starting before my veg oil fuel has reached a proper pressure at the pump.
Fantastic video. 👍
Would be worth pointing out that putting positive fuel pressure in front your injection pump isnt always a great idea... For any pump with a built in (fuel pressure controlled) dynamic timing system (So basically any modern rotary pump (VE etc), this is a bad idea, the second you add pressure, you will mess up this timing curve (Add a bunch of timing at idle / lower demand where you dont want it).... Worth mensioning as I have seen many of times on customers vehicles where a "performance fuel pump" has been added inline to there VE pump supply line, and then the engine sounds like a bag of nails...purely because the pump just runs at max timing 24/7.... For pumps like the VE, the key to higher rpm power lies with restrictions in multiple places in the body, and the plunger return setup AND fuel restriction...You CAN (and need to) add a pump, but other modifications are required at the same time.
Personally I wouldnt generally drill out a return fitting, its largely there to purge air and provide a small ammount of fuel flow for cooling.... If you are having to drill out your return restrictor, you are somewhat defeating the point in adding more inlet flow? Would be better to fit a (decent) fuel pressure regulator on the inlet side, with its own return to tank...that way you can run as big a pump as you want, and set the inlet pressure to be constant, largely regardless to demand.... and you arnt wasting perfectly good flow going right through the pump and down the return.... If the pump wants 100% lift pump flow, the regulator will just shut its return right off to try and maintain inlet pressure.
Just a few thoughts that may be helpful to a few people....
I JUST finished messing with my mechanical VE pump on my ‘97 AAZ 1.9td VW. I made a pressure gauge adapted to the head of another out bolt, suspecting my pump is a tad weak.
From what the internet and forums say, I was about 5 psi less at 1000rpm and about 10 @ 2k rpm.
So i took a punch and hammer and knocked the fuel pressure regulating pin in a hair, and the car seemed to respond well, the pressure increased a bit to supposed normal spec, but it sounds like a bag of nails.
I rebuilt the engine, ported the cylinder head with freshened up valve grind and seats, added an intercooler setup, yet to de-restrict the exhaust, but the car’s final issues I feel lie in the pump.
The real doozie is that with the same pedal travel in the same gear, with the car in the same load, even with the engine and turbo heat-soaked, it’ll suddenly be a different car, it springs to life and actually has TORQUE and pulls like a freight train.
I’m at a loss.
Mercedes m pumps don’t actually have any timing control, the gear on the front of the pump has a centrifugal mechanism that advances timing with more rpm,
@@Diesel8290 I realise that, I am talking for cars that do....
@@darrenjlobb any idea on what this surge of power and torque might come from on an old VE pump diesel? I know I’m “that guy” on youtube, but you look like you know these pumps more. No one has got a clue that I’ve asked, people just say take it to a shop
On VE pumps be careful with inlet pressure changes and drilling out return banjo bolt restrictions as these are both instrumental in advance curve, the regulator setting as set by the plug above is a max setting, the pressure rise curve is dependent on rpm and bleed rate back to tank which moves timing piston as pressure rises, this can be altered by low pressure pump wear ( for those that don't know its at the front of injection pump) causing slower rise rate or blocked return orifice screen or orifice itself or someone replacing banjo bolt with different orifice size ( smaller or larger)or drilling out etc, as pump rpm increases so does fuel volume which causes a rise in pressure,when due to bleed rate thru orifice it can't return to tank fast enough as well as what is actually being delivered to the injectors factored in and the advance piston pushes the cam ring advancing injection, usually 1 of two scenarios happen, LP pump wears and inj timing retarded thru whole or part of range or orifice incorrect and advances too soon ( too small) and runs hot, or lays down in top end (too big) from not enough advance,
If your pump static timing is correct ( usually done by plunger travel method) and is running hot at high rpm but not blowing black smoke and Max regulated pressure is in spec then most likely running too far advanced from return restriction, if you have a spare return banjo bolt try running a ever so slightly larger hole and see if the running hot changes to a higher rpm or goes away ( assuming return lines are clear and tank not over pressuring) this is/ was a huge issue with Toyota 1HZ mechanical pumps and some 5L pumps, Toyota had revised return banjo bolts thru Denso dealer program when correctly diagnosed this also sometimes lead to over injection on stop start driving and oil sludging from fuel contamination in oil
HI! Nice video! I have a OM-314 engine with Bosch PEs4a90d diesel pump in my old Ford F-100. Is it possible to change the elements of my pump to achieve more power?.
I really like my mercedes engine, but it's slow. Thanks from Brazil
Awesome video. What HP setup would also give you the most mpg
Thank you for the video. Where would I get a remanufactured automatic pump for a 606 engine?
Great info
You guys played around with Stanadyne DB2 Rotory pump?
What timing specs can you give me and turning up fuel?
Have you experimented with injectors to shorten up your injection window further? Love the videos, keep up the good work.
That’s awesome Luke, I really like how the 8.5mm elements can decrease the duration.
Would those elements be available in an EDC pump?
Yes we fit them to edc also
hello luke you make those 8.5 sound awesome do they come in all your pumps w anti jerk and if so in which one or how do i look it up in your website, looking to purchase one would like to know if its still driveable on daily conditions or would it burn a lot of diesel looking to build some around (400-450)
So what your saying is the fuel pump is sucking the fuel out of the fuel lines.
What if you had bigger fuel lines.?
Almost like the IP needs a reservoir/surge tank on top of it
Is this tech and parts available for the Cummins BT4?
vovlvo fl6 used 24 volt 044 eqiv on a bosch 044 from factory,and funnily enough didnt have same failure issues like the transits which either doid not have alift puymp or flowed the fuel back through the pump and these pumps need flow for coolong
For how much cc is stock lift pump good with your 7.7 element? Thanks
why not use a spring type return bolt with an m12 to m14 adapter and have as good as constant pressure? like the bosch ....000 (1,5 bar) or ... 089 ( 3 bar) . The internal pressure (as small as it is in an in line pump) doesn't even have any influence to wear of the element, fuel quality does! return bolts with a calibrated hole only have their use in VE-type pumps where different internal pressure is needed for mechanical timing.... nice little bench btw . ( i operate eps 711, eps 815 , AVM2 , hartridge 400 , and multiple others for cr). Kind regards
The om613 uses diesel solenoid injectors.
How do those work exactly?
I don´t get it; bmw 318s and 325s for instance do not have a supply pump; the FI pump creates the internal pressure (which we can manipulate), the line is under suction; what pump is that on the video?
How will the bottom end hold out big ends, pistons etc how much abuse will they take on the om606 with a mild power increase?
Fuel pressure to the pump i assume basically means naff all where as flow rate capability has to be essential?
pressure is resistance to flow, having higher pressure indicates a higher flow capability.
@@Mekzuc91 but you need flow to maintain pressure, it no good having 1000 psi closed pressure only to drop to 1psi when the taps open.
The pump is going to raise the fuel to the required injector pressure but the pump needs an adequate flow rate to do that.
@@WhiskeyGulf71 you said it in your first line. You need flow to maintain pressure. Therefore if pressure doesn't drop bellow spec it means flow hasn't been compromised. If pressure did drop it would indicate flow isn't adequate.
hellooooo , i have put an om606 with om 603 injectionpump 5.5 mm , how many hp can i get out of the om 606 with stock turno now ?
thx and luv youre videos
The 7 thumbs down must be from Sweden 😆 grate videos luke best in the game
yes i chased fuel pressure problems for years,now wherever possible i use holley blue or bosch 044 depending on how much lift pump pressure i need,i worked at united fuel injection in perth WA and i was the first there to fit elec lift pumps to vehilces,some idiots are trying to say i cant use an 044 on a bosch p pump which i have fitted to a mercedes truck without issues
What is the input pressure for a Bosch P please
@@rod5262 depends on application,valve on return line opens around 30psi in standard engines
@@rod5262 i dont agree with the assumtion it should not go over 45 psi in video,tractor pullers,diesel drag race etc routinely run 120psi+ into P pump,driveability issues aint an issue to them though LOL
What effect will having an open return have on a p series pump? This is for a farm tractor , some have valves on the return side and some don’t
@@rod5262 not an open fucking return line,regulated return ,are you even a mechanic?,same valve gave alot of problems on cummins applications
So interesting this wish you could help me a with my crappy Delphi pump on my focus ST can’t get enough fuel now it’s maxed out no one wants to know 😢😢
Are you not worried about the "water hammer" effect killing the gauge?
Gud Vid, How many KW's or HP does that test pump motor run at?
Hey dude! Love your videos! By the way, does the lift pump also work well with electronically controlled fuel pumps?
Keep the cool vids coming!
Will you ever tune mechanical ve pumps for like a vw?
I will never say never :-)
@@DieselPumpUK i want a properly built pump but dont know a trustworthy guy that could build it. I will try to build one myself, but i know its wont be that good becouse i dont have the equipmeant and knowledge.
@@raitis4398 dieselmeken
Would you have any idea as to stop surging on a RB A style pump at low idle?
Could I mail you a pump for a caterpillar 3406B and have you set it up?
will be there a video in the near future about boosting diesel engine with lpg?
I have both Powershot LPG injection and a Snow Performance water/meth injection(dont use LPG and water/meth at the same time!) on my highly modified Nissan Patrol turbo diesel. Water/meth kit gives you more power than using the LPG kit. Cheers!
@@bikerman6907 does the LPG or water/meth affects the way the exhaust sounds?
@@antoniotod9614 no not the sound. But you can clearly see a reduction in black smoke, when the water/meth injection kicks in, not so much with LPG actually.
This is what i need for my om606😀💪💪💪🏎🏎🏎
Is the patent to this motor still active in both Europe and america?
What would be a good element size for a stock OM 603 in a W140 daily driver? I’m trying to give it a little help, but don’t want a race car.
6mm would be fine for a little more “pep” check out my om603 tuning video
Hello guys. I have a om 604 all stock. I pretend to put a turbo on it. Haw many HP and nm can i extract from stock internals and 7.5 mm om601 Pump ??( C220 d 2.2l om604 95 HP N/A)
Awesome Friend
Very nice thank you sir 🤙🇺🇸
But why do you read 2 bar at the test bench and 1 bar on the pump with no flow (blocked return port on pump)? The pressure with no flow should be the same. I think you need to open the breater rubber walve on the top off the pressure gauge.
Nice one
Let's goo 🙌 💪 this video is awesome.
Im looking for a head for my 1996 mercedes benz e300 can you help me find one
I have 6he1 engine what can you do for the pump
I currently have a standard banjo with a adjustable fuel pressure regulator instead of the return banjo is that a bad idea?
nah no issue thwre
I done compound turbo my 4cy disel but not expirence any power increase
I have a e36 1993 2.5 td with 10mm element, i want to buol a drift car witch 350 horsepower and 13mm pumpelement 130cc
good vid 💪
ty
Can I do it in the pump diesel Nissan patrol sd33td?
will that pressure gauge fit on my 300D car pump?
Is it a om617 or a om603?
these are all good but man i just feel like we are gonna end up needing block strengtheners or something
@DieselPumpUk or Luke can i import you to Salt lake city Utah
Pump element part number please?
Hi can I buy this pump thks
interesting video though
👍
6:45 put the captions on. Lol
a guy with a flow bench should know inlet pressure doesnt matter. flow is all thats required. pressure is merely the restriction to that flow, which we know is there. because its the fuel pump.
A guy without a test bench should know that flow without pressure will not charge the elements.
@@drbobritter1143 no such thing as flow without pressure. go back to school.
But you need the pressure to force the diesel into the elements as they come down to be refilled,
@@Diesel8290 no. the elements are empty, a void. when they open atmospheric pressure, which is all around us all the time, will be happy to do the work for you. Thats why when you knock over a glass of water, it spills. You dont need to pump it out. You guys have some VERY basic misunderstandings of how things work.
@@DieselRamcharger a glass of water has time to empty. At 2000 rpm you WILL need pressure to fill the void quick enough to maintain performance
u need to put the mic closer to your mouth or speak louder your is very low sometimes
These engines will run out soon 😂🤣😂 they were cheep and every where like honda civics
This is garbage. You cannot, cannot feed more fuel into an older mechanical pump with no return line. Makes zero difference. Intact forcing more fuel into those pumps without a return damages them.
These pumps DO have a return have a look at one when you get the chance.
your audio is not to my liking. cant really get your explaination clearly. please improve.
I can’t see what’s to improve. The sound was nice and clear here.