It is my understanding that a lot of coil springs meant for the 2001-2005 Honda Civic (EM2), if not all of them, share parts numbers with versions meant for Civic Si's and Type-R's of the same generation (EP3). That goes for these MaXpeedingRods coilovers as well. The problem with that is the Si's and Type-R's have much larger and heavier engines than base models. Roughly by 20% to 30%, when comparing the 1,668cc D17 to a 1,998cc K20. Because of the lighter front end, the stiffer spring rates meant to support those different engines negatively impacts the performance on base model Civic's. You can swap out the coil springs up front for something with a softer spring rate, if you can find them. Alternatively, you could reach out to the manufacturer and ask them to ship you a set of softer front coil springs (somewhere in the range of 6kg/mm). Ideally, you'd want it relatively soft up front. Too much stiffness can induce understeer. With regards to these MaXpeedingRods coilovers, this is my experience. Stock, the spring rate on the rear coil springs is fine. Although, the fronts are pretty stiff and refuse to compress. This takes away suspension travel. After speaking with the manufacturer, they've offered to send me softer coil springs and told me that the spring rates for this particular kit (Part #3002101982) are as follows. Front spring rate: 10kg/mm (560 lbs/in) Rear spring rate: 6kg/mm (336 lbs/in)
Thank for putting the commentary about the tie rod end in the video. That's very informative. Because being able to insert the tie rod inverted results (for this application) in a straight tie rod. Which is important because I had to buy different tie rod to minimize bump steer with my 1" drop on my miata.
great video picked up a identical car recently and looking to do coils and audio system and haven't seen anything about this gen of car cause its a bit of a odd year
Great video! I went with near oem replacements (and they went right in) as all the videos I've seen on MaxpeedingRods look like a nightmare to fit and deal with. I live out in the country so going low ain't a option. Lol Thanks for the footage!
No problem! You probably took the safer route. Our EM2 was up on jackstands for months while we were figuring all of this out. There are so many things that can go wrong on "budget" coils, even if all you want is a bit of height adjustment. Definitely only recommended if it's worth the hassle / money saved. There's a steep learning curve involved.
Always good to have a grinder around. Things like to seize after sitting for a while. We also used it while installing our sound system to fit larger diameter 6 1/2's in the doors.
I have ALDERSPEED coilovers and they are just like factory. No fitment issues and no issues with installing. Everything fit stock and well.. it is also 32 levels of adjustment
These would be my next recommendation if anyone has an extra few hundred dollars to spend. They'd be best suited for a ~$750 CAD budget, up from the ~$450 CAD MaXpeedingRods budget.
@@sptauto yea alder speed is track/rally suspension. Max speeding rods more for daily driving. You can make them more solid if you know what you’re doing but these coils are a good budget option cuz d2 and bc coils , bilsteins, spoon, are above 2000
@Priceles$ (A.K.A WaySydeBeats) Yep, I've been eyeballing those BC Racing coilovers myself recently. I like that they allow you to choose your own spring rates when buying their kit. These MaXpeedingRods coilovers have held up well for the year that I've had them, but nowadays my budget allows for a lot more. bc.springrates.com/products/bc-racing-br-series-coilovers-2001-2005-honda-civic
@@juansmith9107 Godspeed extended tie rod ends, which we then cut down to the exact size we needed for a straight alignment. godspeedproject.ca/products/acura-rsx-2002-06-extended-tie-rod-ends-kit?srsltid=AfmBOooITxxRe6i859llVVEtt-wR_NH3CBIa2SSBm4C3PvXilBCT-7TX&variant=38160971792577
Well, this car is certainly inexpensive to maintain and operate. Part selection is fair, and it's a respectable platform for modifications. I've always been a believer that a car should adapt to the drivers needs in time, rather than being outright replaced. So, I'd +1 putting a little into it. Doesn't have to be a lot. Just enough to make you happy. We're a tight-knit enthusiast community as well, and EM2's are fairly well documented. So the chances of stumbling into the realm of the unknown is slim-to-none.
@@sptauto My civic has 208k miles on it, I am thinking of either rebuilding the engine or swapping the engine out to a D17a JDM engine. I do not have the space or tools to do it myself though so I am wondering around how much should i plan to spend
@@paulc1014 That depends mostly on what you'd like to get out of it. It's possible to make ~160 horsepower NA with cams, bolt-ons, a tune, and some parts sharing ($3K-ish). Other D-Series engines make about the same, with the larger gains coming from forced induction. I'd recommend against the latter of which. It's expensive ($2K more), and our cars will detonate with much more than 8-pounds of boost on stock internals. Mine's a non-VTEC D17A1 with 205K on it. So I'm personally aiming for that 160 target NA, after swapping in a D17A2 VTEC head, D16Y8 intake manifold, adapting cams from a D16Y8 (for proper 3-lobe VTEC), and getting a tune. An engine swap is a lot of work, so at that point it'd be more worth it to go straight to a K-Series ($5K-ish) rather than another D-Series. The K20A2 in particular. Those make 200+ horsepower out of box. Luckily, that's been a very well documented swap on our cars. I can personally recommend this guide, here: kpowered.net/01-05-civic-k-swap-guide/
Hey brother I ran into the same problem with the tie rod ends being too short when it came to get it aligned where did you get the extended tie rod ends and did you get both inner and outer ones extended or just 1?
I got extended tie rod ends from Godspeed and left everything else the same. We cut the ends a bit shorter cause it turned out they were too long. I bought mine from eBay, but this is the link to their official website: godspeedproject.com/honda-civic-coupe-sedan-2001-05-extended-tie-rod-ends-kit.html
I have a question, I bought sum coilovers from maxpeedingrods and installed them but my front wheels are pointing different direction like my front left wheel was pointing left like if the steering wheel moved to the left even tho it wasn't and this all happened after installing the coilovers, same happened on the other side, im so confused why this happened the werid part is i got it for them same model as my car, i hope you can help me
I found those on eBay for pretty cheap. They're stainless steel catless 4-1 race headers from a brand called 'Motor-1'. They were only $85 each. Might be out of stock at the moment, but I'm sure they're available elsewhere. Headers: www.ebay.ca/itm/232864983450
1. TIME: 5:55 ish I have the same problem... well I mean I had. My friend had to cut the bolt at his shop also for me. because we couldn't manually man handle it LOL 2. TIME: 8:50 ish The Yonaka 2.5 inch...? WHERE did you get it from. Dang that is what I was trying to get but i still cannot find it anywhere 😞??? 3. TIME 9:15-9:30 THAT sounds NIICE!!! !!! 🙂 I also have the the 03 Civic Coupe.. 5 Speed
Yeah those bolts are a massive pain. The whole process was difficult, but at least we got it done. The car looks a lot better now. I personally got my exhaust on a site called garage16. It was available from a few places, even eBay at one point. It goes out of stock frequently though and as a result, prices can fluctuate massively. I paid $627 CAD all-in for it after taxes, which was more on the reasonable side. Has free shipping also, thankfully. exhaust: www.garage16.ca/product/24557/yonaka-2001-2005-honda-civic-2dr-4dr-catback-exhaust-1-7l Thank you! I think it sounds nice also. That exhaust paired nicely with our catless 4-1 race headers, and short RAM intake from eBay. intake: www.ebay.ca/itm/131648652498 headers: www.ebay.ca/itm/232864983450 Definitely more content on the way. Our cars are practically the same! (+/- some trim options, and paint color). One of our next projects to tackle is swapping a VTEC head from a D17A2 onto our non-VTEC D17A1 block, installing Crower valve springs + retainers, adapting D16Y8 cams for proper 3-lobe VTEC, and swapping for a D16Y8 intake manifold. 🤙
@@sptauto Man!!! That sounds like a great fun project coming ahead for you guys!! 🙂 i will try to order it from the garage website. or try to contact them maybe. Thanks a lot.
Yes indeed, I'm up in Canada. This car has seen plenty of white Christmases in its lifetime, along with its fair share of salted roads. Luckily, a lot of what it's gotten is just surface rust on the underside. It'll clean off and then I can get it all recoated. The calipers are the only things that have really seen any rot, and they did eventually seize up on me. I've since completely overhauled the fronts and installed new cross-drilled and slotted rotors, coated calipers, and Raybestos E3 pads. Now I'm converting the rears from drums to discs and will likely do control arms and brake likes along with them. Needing it right now, because all four sides will overheat on me after a few minutes of hard driving. I had the front brakes smoking tonight.
@SPT Auto wow! Well I'm going to subscribe and join u on this journey! I'm about to buy a 2001 auto ex. Lots of miles but essentially one owner. My best friend from highschools family. His mom has been driving it. I'm already looking into doing all of the brakes and lines just because. I felt a major difference in my miata when I went with all new calipers and ss lines. Still have two well 3 brake lines to replace because I was having technical difficulties. May replace one of my new calipers because when I was installing the brake line with the distro block on it I installed it backwards it got chewed and threw fluid all on it. I suggest going dimpled slotted and the most I'm not a fan of drilling holes thru the rotors. Because of warping. But they will be fine for the life of them I just don't trust ut
In my case, they came with the car. They're Core Racing Concept Seven's in the 15x6.5 size. They're identical to Konig Tantrum's as well. Both are out of production, but pop up for sale used on occasion.
Thank you! To adjust camber, you'd need an additional camber kit. I have one, just not installed on the car yet. It's resting in its default stance with the new coilovers currently.
Planning to buy the same civic In about a week have a eg but want a coupe and I have ordered the same coil overs but in gold for the coupe and spoon replicas
Those are new OEM replacements, which I installed in the previous video. I've kept the originals in case they're ever needed. I'll probably polish them up at some point.
@@sptauto Ah good stuff, I'll take a look, I know the bumper cover's gotta come off. Just picked up an '02 EX coupe 5 speed and the headlights are yellower than the sun! Seems like new ones will be less effort than polishing.
@@SnickterP Could be. Replacing them is not a difficult job. Just gotta be careful with all of the small black plugs holding that black plastic trim to the underside of the bumper cover. They're easy to break or misplace.
I have the original link for the headers here, but it's dead. That page is gone. It was just a no-name catless 4-1 from eBay that cost $85. If you find them on eBay or amazon they're probably the same one. A lot of folks in the 01-05 Civic groups on Facebook have them. www.ebay.ca/itm/232864983450
Thank you! Our exhaust system is from 'Yonaka Motorsports'. It has 2.5-inch stainless steel piping from the headers back, and a 3.5-inch tip. Muffler is also a straight-through design, which is optimal for airflow. Sounds super smooth, and has no droning or anything. Keeps quiet under 3K rpm, and really comes alive in the higher revs. I bought it from a website called Garage16. Paid about $627 Canadian for it including taxes, with free shipping: www.garage16.ca/product/24557/yonaka-2001-2005-honda-civic-2dr-4dr-catback-exhaust-1-7l
@@angelasaldana8556 The intake and headers I found on eBay for super cheap. About $85 each. I opted for a no-name Short RAM intake, and catless 4-1 race headers from Motor-1. Both fit perfectly with no issues. Also came with bungs for O2 and temperature sensors. Intake: www.ebay.ca/itm/131648652498 Headers: www.ebay.ca/itm/232864983450
I've got a ES2, the 03 LX sedan, and I am hoping to make it into a sleeper as well. Hoping to do either a D17A2 vtec head swap or just do a k20a swap in it. What are your thoughts?
If you want to make power on a D17, ideally you'd frankenstein a few different D-series engines together. D17A1 block, D17A2 head, D16Y8 intake manifold, D16Y8 cams, D16Y8 rocker assembly. Then you'd have proper 3-lobe VTEC and lower compression pistons, which is better for turbo applications. That should be good for 160whp NA with a tune, and 200whp with a turbo. I'm doing this exact project on my EM2. Fully built, I've seen as high as 490whp/360tq on a D17A2 non-frankenstein build ( andyman97 on civicforums: www.civicforums.com/forums/members/8492-andyman97.html ). K-swaps are a good route also, as long as you're avoiding the baby-VTEC (2-lobe) eco models with smaller connecting rods. I'd say try to get the most out of your D17 before doing a swap, though. You may be satisfied with the results and decide not to do a swap in the end.
@CD224 / Mineblox91 Precisely. As part of the build, I'd also recommend avoiding OEM head gasket replacements. I haven't had mine blow, but I've seen it happen to a lot of other people's D17s. I'd opt for a multi-layer stainless steel offering instead, from 'Cosmetic' (C4474-027). Folks seem to have a lot more success with them.
@@slothinick I set a neutral preload (not compressing the spring), then sunk the rest of the black tube. From there, I spent a bunch of time getting each side to sit even. You have to sit the car on level ground, then measure the height of all 4 corners, and adjust until all are equal. As for how low you can go, mine sits a few inches below stock and that's about all it can take. Could have something to do with the astronomically high spring rates used up front on this kit, or maybe it's by design. I contacted the manufacturer, and they sent out some softer coil springs. I have yet to install them, but I'll give an update.
This video was shot over a year ago. At the time, the car was uninsured and not being driven. During that time, it developed some surface rust on the rotors, which rubbed off from the pads when it was eventually driven. The calipers later seized and were replaced when they became a problem. The car is now on new cross-drilled and slotted rotors, with zinc-coated Raybestos calipers, and Element 3 pads.
It is my understanding that a lot of coil springs meant for the 2001-2005 Honda Civic (EM2), if not all of them, share parts numbers with versions meant for Civic Si's and Type-R's of the same generation (EP3). That goes for these MaXpeedingRods coilovers as well. The problem with that is the Si's and Type-R's have much larger and heavier engines than base models. Roughly by 20% to 30%, when comparing the 1,668cc D17 to a 1,998cc K20. Because of the lighter front end, the stiffer spring rates meant to support those different engines negatively impacts the performance on base model Civic's. You can swap out the coil springs up front for something with a softer spring rate, if you can find them. Alternatively, you could reach out to the manufacturer and ask them to ship you a set of softer front coil springs (somewhere in the range of 6kg/mm). Ideally, you'd want it relatively soft up front. Too much stiffness can induce understeer.
With regards to these MaXpeedingRods coilovers, this is my experience. Stock, the spring rate on the rear coil springs is fine. Although, the fronts are pretty stiff and refuse to compress. This takes away suspension travel. After speaking with the manufacturer, they've offered to send me softer coil springs and told me that the spring rates for this particular kit (Part #3002101982) are as follows.
Front spring rate: 10kg/mm (560 lbs/in)
Rear spring rate: 6kg/mm (336 lbs/in)
How soft were the springs they sent you?
@@aiden2368 6kg/mm (336 lbs/in) to match the rears, giving it a square spring rate all around rather than staggered.
@@sptauto with the softer springs we’re you able to get the front lower?
The bolts on the 02 seem welded on! I knew I couldn’t be the only one. Good video
Thank for putting the commentary about the tie rod end in the video. That's very informative. Because being able to insert the tie rod inverted results (for this application) in a straight tie rod. Which is important because I had to buy different tie rod to minimize bump steer with my 1" drop on my miata.
Of course! It'd be wrong to leave that sort of thing out. We're trying to show people the right way to do things. It's a safety thing too.
tip: run an extra ground wire from alternator so that if the adjustment/bolt ever loosens you won't fry your ecu
That's a good tip. I've heard about this issue with our cars.
Lol was not expecting to hear conway😂😂 good vid
Playing Conway just earned u a sub my boi
Very informative and motivating video! I got plans for my 02 Civic. Also nice taste in music 🤠
Thank you! This video was made with the intention of being as informative as possible, because a lot of it can come as a surprise to first-timers.
great video picked up a identical car recently and looking to do coils and audio system and haven't seen anything about this gen of car cause its a bit of a odd year
Great video! I went with near oem replacements (and they went right in) as all the videos I've seen on MaxpeedingRods look like a nightmare to fit and deal with. I live out in the country so going low ain't a option. Lol Thanks for the footage!
No problem! You probably took the safer route. Our EM2 was up on jackstands for months while we were figuring all of this out. There are so many things that can go wrong on "budget" coils, even if all you want is a bit of height adjustment. Definitely only recommended if it's worth the hassle / money saved. There's a steep learning curve involved.
What one did you get
Tie rod bolts are insane
Also good to know I would finally have to buy a grinder etcetera
Always good to have a grinder around. Things like to seize after sitting for a while. We also used it while installing our sound system to fit larger diameter 6 1/2's in the doors.
I have ALDERSPEED coilovers and they are just like factory. No fitment issues and no issues with installing. Everything fit stock and well.. it is also 32 levels of adjustment
These would be my next recommendation if anyone has an extra few hundred dollars to spend. They'd be best suited for a ~$750 CAD budget, up from the ~$450 CAD MaXpeedingRods budget.
@@sptauto yea alder speed is track/rally suspension. Max speeding rods more for daily driving. You can make them more solid if you know what you’re doing but these coils are a good budget option cuz d2 and bc coils , bilsteins, spoon, are above 2000
@Priceles$ (A.K.A WaySydeBeats) Yep, I've been eyeballing those BC Racing coilovers myself recently. I like that they allow you to choose your own spring rates when buying their kit. These MaXpeedingRods coilovers have held up well for the year that I've had them, but nowadays my budget allows for a lot more. bc.springrates.com/products/bc-racing-br-series-coilovers-2001-2005-honda-civic
How does the ride feel?
@@Assault0912 depends on what you want has hard and soft mode settings, ain Gon be soft like factory
what was the outer tie rod you purchased that was longer?
@@juansmith9107 Godspeed extended tie rod ends, which we then cut down to the exact size we needed for a straight alignment. godspeedproject.ca/products/acura-rsx-2002-06-extended-tie-rod-ends-kit?srsltid=AfmBOooITxxRe6i859llVVEtt-wR_NH3CBIa2SSBm4C3PvXilBCT-7TX&variant=38160971792577
I have an 03 civic as well and I'm debating if I should put money into this car as I do not want to finance a new car and have payments every month
Well, this car is certainly inexpensive to maintain and operate. Part selection is fair, and it's a respectable platform for modifications.
I've always been a believer that a car should adapt to the drivers needs in time, rather than being outright replaced. So, I'd +1 putting a little into it. Doesn't have to be a lot. Just enough to make you happy.
We're a tight-knit enthusiast community as well, and EM2's are fairly well documented. So the chances of stumbling into the realm of the unknown is slim-to-none.
@@sptauto My civic has 208k miles on it, I am thinking of either rebuilding the engine or swapping the engine out to a D17a JDM engine. I do not have the space or tools to do it myself though so I am wondering around how much should i plan to spend
@@paulc1014 That depends mostly on what you'd like to get out of it. It's possible to make ~160 horsepower NA with cams, bolt-ons, a tune, and some parts sharing ($3K-ish). Other D-Series engines make about the same, with the larger gains coming from forced induction. I'd recommend against the latter of which. It's expensive ($2K more), and our cars will detonate with much more than 8-pounds of boost on stock internals.
Mine's a non-VTEC D17A1 with 205K on it. So I'm personally aiming for that 160 target NA, after swapping in a D17A2 VTEC head, D16Y8 intake manifold, adapting cams from a D16Y8 (for proper 3-lobe VTEC), and getting a tune.
An engine swap is a lot of work, so at that point it'd be more worth it to go straight to a K-Series ($5K-ish) rather than another D-Series. The K20A2 in particular. Those make 200+ horsepower out of box. Luckily, that's been a very well documented swap on our cars. I can personally recommend this guide, here: kpowered.net/01-05-civic-k-swap-guide/
Hey brother I ran into the same problem with the tie rod ends being too short when it came to get it aligned where did you get the extended tie rod ends and did you get both inner and outer ones extended or just 1?
I got extended tie rod ends from Godspeed and left everything else the same. We cut the ends a bit shorter cause it turned out they were too long. I bought mine from eBay, but this is the link to their official website: godspeedproject.com/honda-civic-coupe-sedan-2001-05-extended-tie-rod-ends-kit.html
I have a question, I bought sum coilovers from maxpeedingrods and installed them but my front wheels are pointing different direction like my front left wheel was pointing left like if the steering wheel moved to the left even tho it wasn't and this all happened after installing the coilovers, same happened on the other side, im so confused why this happened the werid part is i got it for them same model as my car, i hope you can help me
This is normal. Vehicles require a professional wheel alignment after the install of new suspension componentry.
Where did you find your header!? Please let me kno thanks 👍
I found those on eBay for pretty cheap. They're stainless steel catless 4-1 race headers from a brand called 'Motor-1'. They were only $85 each. Might be out of stock at the moment, but I'm sure they're available elsewhere.
Headers:
www.ebay.ca/itm/232864983450
Nice you got your dad's help! *no sarcasm*
That's my Uncle Bob. I've been trying to spend more time with him recently. He wanted to help out, and use this as a teaching opportunity.
@@sptauto that's great! Hope you spend as much time with him as you can.
1. TIME: 5:55 ish
I have the same problem... well I mean I had. My friend had to cut the bolt at his shop also for me. because we couldn't manually man handle it LOL
2. TIME: 8:50 ish
The Yonaka 2.5 inch...? WHERE did you get it from. Dang that is what I was trying to get but i still cannot find it anywhere 😞???
3. TIME 9:15-9:30 THAT sounds NIICE!!! !!! 🙂
I also have the the 03 Civic Coupe.. 5 Speed
Yeah those bolts are a massive pain. The whole process was difficult, but at least we got it done. The car looks a lot better now.
I personally got my exhaust on a site called garage16. It was available from a few places, even eBay at one point. It goes out of stock frequently though and as a result, prices can fluctuate massively. I paid $627 CAD all-in for it after taxes, which was more on the reasonable side. Has free shipping also, thankfully.
exhaust: www.garage16.ca/product/24557/yonaka-2001-2005-honda-civic-2dr-4dr-catback-exhaust-1-7l
Thank you! I think it sounds nice also. That exhaust paired nicely with our catless 4-1 race headers, and short RAM intake from eBay.
intake: www.ebay.ca/itm/131648652498
headers: www.ebay.ca/itm/232864983450
Definitely more content on the way. Our cars are practically the same! (+/- some trim options, and paint color). One of our next projects to tackle is swapping a VTEC head from a D17A2 onto our non-VTEC D17A1 block, installing Crower valve springs + retainers, adapting D16Y8 cams for proper 3-lobe VTEC, and swapping for a D16Y8 intake manifold. 🤙
@@sptauto Man!!! That sounds like a great fun project coming ahead for you guys!! 🙂
i will try to order it from the garage website. or try to contact them maybe.
Thanks a lot.
@@Hotdrboy88 No problem! Always keen to talk Civic's with a fellow owner.
@@sptauto Thank you You are awesome man! I am from New Jersey. I hate working on my car in the winter haha 🙂
@@Hotdrboy88 I feel your pain, I'm from Canada. 😂 An indoor garage with a heater would be excellent.
I strongly advise new control arms wheel hubs and calipers and brake lines. Are u up north?
Yes indeed, I'm up in Canada. This car has seen plenty of white Christmases in its lifetime, along with its fair share of salted roads. Luckily, a lot of what it's gotten is just surface rust on the underside. It'll clean off and then I can get it all recoated. The calipers are the only things that have really seen any rot, and they did eventually seize up on me. I've since completely overhauled the fronts and installed new cross-drilled and slotted rotors, coated calipers, and Raybestos E3 pads. Now I'm converting the rears from drums to discs and will likely do control arms and brake likes along with them. Needing it right now, because all four sides will overheat on me after a few minutes of hard driving. I had the front brakes smoking tonight.
@SPT Auto wow! Well I'm going to subscribe and join u on this journey! I'm about to buy a 2001 auto ex. Lots of miles but essentially one owner. My best friend from highschools family. His mom has been driving it. I'm already looking into doing all of the brakes and lines just because. I felt a major difference in my miata when I went with all new calipers and ss lines. Still have two well 3 brake lines to replace because I was having technical difficulties. May replace one of my new calipers because when I was installing the brake line with the distro block on it I installed it backwards it got chewed and threw fluid all on it. I suggest going dimpled slotted and the most I'm not a fan of drilling holes thru the rotors. Because of warping. But they will be fine for the life of them I just don't trust ut
@@ChutneyInc. Nice! That should a good ride.
Where did you get the wheels from
In my case, they came with the car. They're Core Racing Concept Seven's in the 15x6.5 size. They're identical to Konig Tantrum's as well. Both are out of production, but pop up for sale used on occasion.
How much for the suspension and how can I get for front ... I am from Nepal
I paid about $450 Canadian, which is $330 American, or $43000 in Nepalese Rupees. They come as a set, both fronts and rears.
Hey I love your videos man! Im just wondering if it has a camber adjustment in the front? If so, how do you adjust them?
Thank you! To adjust camber, you'd need an additional camber kit. I have one, just not installed on the car yet. It's resting in its default stance with the new coilovers currently.
Did you mean clutch fluid??? I was at advanced autos and they told me that 😊
Nope. Clutch fluid is hydraulic. There are drain and fill ports for oil in the transmission.
Planning to buy the same civic In about a week have a eg but want a coupe and I have ordered the same coil overs but in gold for the coupe and spoon replicas
That should be great! Feel free to follow along with our mods yourself. Lots more is coming for this car, all of which we will document.
Did you polish those headlights to be so clear, or did you buy new aftermarket replacements?
Those are new OEM replacements, which I installed in the previous video. I've kept the originals in case they're ever needed. I'll probably polish them up at some point.
@@sptauto Ah good stuff, I'll take a look, I know the bumper cover's gotta come off. Just picked up an '02 EX coupe 5 speed and the headlights are yellower than the sun! Seems like new ones will be less effort than polishing.
@@SnickterP Could be. Replacing them is not a difficult job. Just gotta be careful with all of the small black plugs holding that black plastic trim to the underside of the bumper cover. They're easy to break or misplace.
@@sptauto I'll keep that in mind, thanks! It already has some broken clips down there, so maybe I'll try to find replacements for the job
headers link?
I have the original link for the headers here, but it's dead. That page is gone. It was just a no-name catless 4-1 from eBay that cost $85. If you find them on eBay or amazon they're probably the same one. A lot of folks in the 01-05 Civic groups on Facebook have them. www.ebay.ca/itm/232864983450
Great video!! i have a question.. where did you buy that muffler or what is the brand???
Or name
Thank you! Our exhaust system is from 'Yonaka Motorsports'. It has 2.5-inch stainless steel piping from the headers back, and a 3.5-inch tip. Muffler is also a straight-through design, which is optimal for airflow. Sounds super smooth, and has no droning or anything. Keeps quiet under 3K rpm, and really comes alive in the higher revs. I bought it from a website called Garage16. Paid about $627 Canadian for it including taxes, with free shipping: www.garage16.ca/product/24557/yonaka-2001-2005-honda-civic-2dr-4dr-catback-exhaust-1-7l
@@sptauto Thank you, and is that intake also in that store? Or what is the name or brand bro?
@@angelasaldana8556 The intake and headers I found on eBay for super cheap. About $85 each. I opted for a no-name Short RAM intake, and catless 4-1 race headers from Motor-1. Both fit perfectly with no issues. Also came with bungs for O2 and temperature sensors.
Intake:
www.ebay.ca/itm/131648652498
Headers:
www.ebay.ca/itm/232864983450
Damn you from metro van area?
Somewhat. A few hours away, in Victoria.
I got those same ones on mine and they shit themselves within like 6 months
I've heard this from a few people, which is concerning. Fingers are crossed that I'm one of the lucky people whom doesn't see any issues. 🤞
I've got a ES2, the 03 LX sedan, and I am hoping to make it into a sleeper as well. Hoping to do either a D17A2 vtec head swap or just do a k20a swap in it. What are your thoughts?
If you want to make power on a D17, ideally you'd frankenstein a few different D-series engines together. D17A1 block, D17A2 head, D16Y8 intake manifold, D16Y8 cams, D16Y8 rocker assembly. Then you'd have proper 3-lobe VTEC and lower compression pistons, which is better for turbo applications. That should be good for 160whp NA with a tune, and 200whp with a turbo. I'm doing this exact project on my EM2. Fully built, I've seen as high as 490whp/360tq on a D17A2 non-frankenstein build ( andyman97 on civicforums: www.civicforums.com/forums/members/8492-andyman97.html ).
K-swaps are a good route also, as long as you're avoiding the baby-VTEC (2-lobe) eco models with smaller connecting rods. I'd say try to get the most out of your D17 before doing a swap, though. You may be satisfied with the results and decide not to do a swap in the end.
@SPT Auto I was thinking the same, as it has 309k kms, and I'd hate to do a swap without tuning it before it goes.
@CD224 / Mineblox91 Precisely. As part of the build, I'd also recommend avoiding OEM head gasket replacements. I haven't had mine blow, but I've seen it happen to a lot of other people's D17s. I'd opt for a multi-layer stainless steel offering instead, from 'Cosmetic' (C4474-027). Folks seem to have a lot more success with them.
@@sptauto Thanks for the tips, man!
@@CD224Auto No problem at all. Anytime! :)
Good thing my 2002 japanese version is easy
I cant seem to get my 05 civic coupe even on these coils. the rear is WAYYYY lower than front and the fronts are bottomed out on lowering.
what are you running to get it to look like this? what's thread count on your springs?
@@slothinick I set a neutral preload (not compressing the spring), then sunk the rest of the black tube. From there, I spent a bunch of time getting each side to sit even. You have to sit the car on level ground, then measure the height of all 4 corners, and adjust until all are equal.
As for how low you can go, mine sits a few inches below stock and that's about all it can take. Could have something to do with the astronomically high spring rates used up front on this kit, or maybe it's by design. I contacted the manufacturer, and they sent out some softer coil springs. I have yet to install them, but I'll give an update.
sicc
You honda boys doing struts when those brakes are rusted like the color of root beer
This video was shot over a year ago. At the time, the car was uninsured and not being driven. During that time, it developed some surface rust on the rotors, which rubbed off from the pads when it was eventually driven. The calipers later seized and were replaced when they became a problem. The car is now on new cross-drilled and slotted rotors, with zinc-coated Raybestos calipers, and Element 3 pads.
Griselda
Of course! Can't go without it.