A great start! Cleaning up neglected planes and putting them back in working order can be a joy. There's always something new to learn about the restoration of these beauties. Enjoy the journey!
Great job cleaning up and repainting the plane. If this is a user plane then you did a great job. Restoring this plane is very different. I have a couple of comments. First I own over 200 planes and have restored quite a lot of them. They are addictive. I noticed the tote or rear handle has the horn broken off. Walnut is a decent replacement but the handles are made of Rosewood. The paint that was removed is called japanning and can be made again with roughly 50% marine spar varnish and 50% asphaltum or roofing tar. It takes about two weeks to cure but produces the hard black durable finish that looks correct. Normally the Bailey planes did not have their letters bolded but it does look nice. Shellac was a typical finish for the handles. The blade is bent a lot on the plane. I bet it was dropped and luckily the blade bent rather than it cracking the casting! I noticed that your lateral adjustment on the blade was loose. You could use a punch and tap the rivet slightly to tighten it up. The chips in the lever cap are typical for those planes as often they were used as the screwdriver for the blade during sharpening. I really would’ve liked to see the plane do what a plane does when you were finished. This plane is called a Fore Plane and can be used to flatten large tops, joint edges, and level down large surfaces. It can also be used as a shooting plane. Very handy plane to have in woodworking.
Thank you so much! A comment like your is so encouraging. I now have 3 planes. And a partial Stanley No. 220 (Cap is broken). I respect roofers so much. I'd mail you my copy of "Ava's Man", a true story of a roofer, Charlie Bundrum, and how he managed to survive the depression, DM your address if interested.
Paul Mouradian in the restoration of a plane it all depends on how bad it is. If you just need a lubricant there are many. A good 3/1 oil will work well. Sometimes I actually put a tiny amount of grease on the thread to make it move smoothly. If you need to unlock seized threads then a good penetrant like PB blaster can help. There are some planes with steel adjusting wheels that get locked pretty hard and I have had to use a small torch to get them to move. If you get a little movement then put in the penetrant and wiggle it back and forth Until it loosens up. Make sure you wash and clean the threads as much as possible before you wind the adjustment wheel all the way out. You don’t want metal and sand to scratch the threads anymore than they are already.
Hand planes are one of the coolest tools to restore, and this one doesn’t disappoint. Great work polishing the brass and careful painting of the raised lettering. Great work😀👍!
Hey, GREAT job! I liked your restoration so much that I’m going to use your method to restore a few planes I have. I’ve watched MANY restoration vids, but I liked yours the best. So thank you, and again, fantastic job!
Nice job. I like to use the Rustoleum Gloss Black oil paint on these. It is easy to brush on with decent flat artist brushes and makes it so I don't need to mask off. Ends up looking great and matches the originsl thicker paint. Again very nice job!
Thank you very much my friend. I made a similar tube when I restored the vintage steel fishing rod. It was only 1 inch (25mm) in diameter. I didn’t brother to mention or show it the video-a big mistake.
Great video. I like your pull-focus shots in the reveal. And the camera angle from below when chucking up in the drill press - nice! And, of course, the restoration was fantastic.
My lighting will, hopefully, be getting a bit better real soon. I have a new piece of equipment coming from B&H Photo. Thanks so much for the kind words.
Excellent video!! By some of the comments, it sounds like you have worked with japanning. I haven’t got to that point yet but really curious to know more about your experience with japanning?
Well done! 👌🏼I noticed it had a Stanley Sweetheart blade in it. Very nice! First time I’ve ever seen someone weigh the grime. 😂. I like your Evaporust Dip tank. Take care. 😃👍🏼
I found a Stanley number 6 in a rubbish skip some years ago, minus its rear handle and screw. It was well rusted but I couldn't believe anyone would discard such a lovely hand tool. I restored mine and found a supplier of all the bits on the internet. Yours is an excellent project, first class, superb video. loved the speech free idea. I'm old, my hearing is poor due to decades of working in noise without ear protection and often videos are spoiled by slovenly speech, strong dialect and excessive, meaningless talk. In fact I stopped watching a similar no6 restoration video simply because of the bucket loads of meaningless talk. This was a real pleasure to watch and the end result was superb. The workshop even resembles mine in rural North East England. Thanks for sharing.
Very kind words from across the pond (unless you’re that other guy that made the chatty No. 6 restoration video). Thanks so much Andy, this made my day. “Kind words are like honey sweet to the soul and healthy for the body.” Proverbs 16:24
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks No, I'm not he. Thanks for your reply. Liked Proverbs 16:24. 9 verse 10 is one of my favorites and 15 verse 1 a close favourite. Thank you again
LOL! Yes, it is Lou. Sort of like "Putting a brick (or two, or three) in the toilet tank to 'Save the Planet'" in the '60's. (Displacement of interior volume by filling space with object(s) requires less liquid in container to immerse plane body, etc.)
Love me a #6 fore plane. I use one all the time. Nice restoration. Thanks! P.S. Have you ever tried using gunsmithing screwdrivers? They are ground to maximize grip in the screw slots. They can make a big difference in (1) getting out seized screws, and (2) keeping the screw-head slots undamaged. They are especially helpful with brass screws.
Thank you Jerry. This was a first for me. Huge learning curve. I watch dozens of TH-cam before beginning. That No 6 was very forgiving. My second plane restore was the No 5 and it too was not a devil. The screws on the No 5 we’re not in great shape when I got it due to the reason you pointed out. Next I have a No 4 and I will attempt to “preserve” as opposed to grinding restoration. The japanning is a bit better but chipped in places. Still lots of rust. The No 4 has rosewood that is in great shape but the logo decal is long got. Hope to post a video early March. Look for my gunsmith screwdriver!!
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks I have rebuilt and restored a number of Stanley planes. I have always found the process very interesting and rewarding. (My least favorite part is japanning, I must admit.😎) As you are doing, I began with #4s, #5s, and #6s -- in that order -- because they are easy to find, as are their parts, and they are affordable. Most importantly, they are great planes to use in the shop. Even if you "build" a plane out of parts from several others, you still end up with a very good daily-use plane -- a plane that might just be better, maybe a lot better, than a new plane that costs more (and which probably needs a lot of tuning, anyway). I'm a plane user, not a plane collector, so that's my view. And, as you do, I like to help out friends when I can. It's all good. BTW: You can make a great gift by getting a used Stanley plane that has plastic knobs and totes (cheap but U.G.L.Y.) and replacing them with knobs and totes you make yourself. It's easy and the results can be really nice -- both to look at and to use -- especially if you replace the steel knob and tote screws, and especially the plastic adjuster knob, with brasses. EBAY rules! Best regards and good luck with all your builds. Thanks.
Great job with the restoration, you really did a thorough job. While Stanley made millions of planes and thus their dollar value isn't that high, they are very functional and are well-made and can still work as good as they day they were made if restored as you have done. I do some hand tool restoration myself and have yet to try Evaporust. I use plain 5% vinegar and let the steel parts marinate in a pan filled with it for three or four days then use the wire brush on my grinder to remove it . Generally the rust comes right off and it is hard to beat the price on generic vinegar, about $1.50/gallon.
Truth. I’ve bought two gallons of EvapoRust so I’m out about US$60. It seems to not degrade even though it is getting real nasty looking. One thing I’ve learned is to clean all items with a good degreaser then toss into the EvapoRust. Thanks again for the kind words my friend.
This felt like deja vue as I restored a pair of Stanley Bailey No 51/2's a month ago - one made in 1932 and the other in the early 1960's. The older one is by far he better tool when it comes to cutting.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks I do run a TH-cam channel - but instead of woodworking and tools its all about the UK canal system! I am trying hard not to muddle the two interests. Happy to e-mail them.
Nice job. I've picked up a fair amount of small hand planes from garage sales. I get them for $1 to $5. I have gotten some larger ones for $5 to $10. The hardest part is flattening the underside and you would need a surface grinder along with a proper jig to ensure you don't break the ears.
Bought a Number 6C Type 11 today. It's in great condition for a 100+ year old plane. Most of the japanning is intact but there are a couple of rust spots on the toe and heel. Not sure if I should just remove the rust or rejapan it. I bought it to use but I'd like to keep it as close to original condition as possible.
I’d just clean with mineral spirits and a nylon bristle brush, then wipe with a clean soft cloth. Wait a day or so for mineral spirts to evaporate then(final step) wax the entire tool. Many folks like Simoniz floor wax but I recently started using Axe Wax. Axe Wax is not a slippery. And if down the road you decide to patch those spots with no Japanning you’ll be fine.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks One more question: can I use Evaporust on the plane bed without damaging the intact japanning? I've only derusted cheap tools so far. Nothing collectible before now.
EvapoRust is not an acidic type of rust remover. It only reacts with rust (iron oxide). EvapoRust has not harmed or affected the paint or Japanning on old planes.
"First time ever", or not, you did a very nice job. Although my heart was in my throat every time you used those taper ground flat blade screwdrivers on the slotted screws. At some point, you might consider a set of Gun Smithing hollow ground screwdrivers. (They're ground to fit the sides of the slots and still go all the way to the bottom. That greatly improves the chances that they won't slip and mar the slot.) [Addendum: Having read your "Disclaimer", I'm reaching the conclusion that, especially in today's litigious society, "Shakespeare was right".]
Hey, Huh. Look on my Instagram. You will find two high quality still photos which clearly show the Sweetheart logo. I’ve got to know, are you a member of the logo patrol? Huh
Hey Huh! I just posted my second hand plane restoration. I took great pains to show the “logo” on the iron. And on the lever cap as well! What do you think?
Well the original handles we're rosewood not walnut. It needs about three good coats of enamel which is then baked for around two hours. You sprayed very light coats. The plane iron is bent. Something I do because it's cast iron is bleed the metal before painting with a torch and paper towel. I also do the same for bottom after finishing and coat with candle wax. Cast iron is porous and holds water and oils very well. Otherwise good job you didn't break anything and it looks fairly good.
@Jacilynn S Are you like president of The Hand Plane Experts Society? You obviously really know your stuff. FYI, I did not document each and every step. The plane actually got 3 coats of rattle can paint. I feel 3 light coats are better so there are not runs and puddles of paint. Since completing this restoration I have purchased AXE WAX and this item has received 3 good coats and a buffing so it well protected. Since making this video (something a knowledgeable individual such as yourself should do) I have restored two other planes and, although I have not arrived at the very pinnacle of plane restoration, I have made a bit of progress. I sacrificed an 220 block plane to get exposed to Japanning. Have you every try Japanning?
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks I just pointed out ways to improve the plane restorations. I did mention it was otherwise a good job. Sorry if you felt offended was not my intention. no I have not tried cold blueing of objects to do Japanning. I prefer the baked enamel finish myself.
Precisa melhorar a iluminação, pois a maioria do vídeo a imagem aparece desfocada, com sombra e escura. De resto, parabéns pela restauração, mesmo que sem afiação. (You need to improve the lighting, because most of the video the image appears blurred, shaded and dark. For the rest, congratulations on the restoration, even without sharpening.)
I see you have created exactly ZERO video and posted exactly ZERO on TH-cam. I suggest adjusting the brightness on your screen. And getting some reading glasses. Otherwise, thanks for the comment.
Now you have me wondering: 5,000? 50,000? 500,000? USA population in 1920 was 106 million. Just wild guessing considering market demographics I would think that selling 500,000 would be stretch. I’m not a marketing person.
A great start! Cleaning up neglected planes and putting them back in working order can be a joy. There's always something new to learn about the restoration of these beauties. Enjoy the journey!
Appreciate the kind words.
Thanks for showing how it is done. I have one to restore as well. Hope I do as fine a job as you did.
You can do it! Don’t get in a hurry (this is the issue I have). Thank you for the nice comment.
Very nice result. Well done on preserving the patina of the unpainted areas. Looks good.
Thanks Andrew.
Great job cleaning up and repainting the plane. If this is a user plane then you did a great job. Restoring this plane is very different. I have a couple of comments. First I own over 200 planes and have restored quite a lot of them. They are addictive. I noticed the tote or rear handle has the horn broken off. Walnut is a decent replacement but the handles are made of Rosewood. The paint that was removed is called japanning and can be made again with roughly 50% marine spar varnish and 50% asphaltum or roofing tar. It takes about two weeks to cure but produces the hard black durable finish that looks correct. Normally the Bailey planes did not have their letters bolded but it does look nice. Shellac was a typical finish for the handles. The blade is bent a lot on the plane. I bet it was dropped and luckily the blade bent rather than it cracking the casting! I noticed that your lateral adjustment on the blade was loose. You could use a punch and tap the rivet slightly to tighten it up. The chips in the lever cap are typical for those planes as often they were used as the screwdriver for the blade during sharpening. I really would’ve liked to see the plane do what a plane does when you were finished. This plane is called a Fore Plane and can be used to flatten large tops, joint edges, and level down large surfaces. It can also be used as a shooting plane. Very handy plane to have in woodworking.
Thank you so much! A comment like your is so encouraging. I now have 3 planes. And a partial Stanley No. 220 (Cap is broken). I respect roofers so much. I'd mail you my copy of "Ava's Man", a true story of a roofer, Charlie Bundrum, and how he managed to survive the depression, DM your address if interested.
Hi Adam I like your comments as well Can you suggest a good lubricant to loosen up seized threaded parts e.g. adjusting screw
Paul Mouradian in the restoration of a plane it all depends on how bad it is. If you just need a lubricant there are many. A good 3/1 oil will work well. Sometimes I actually put a tiny amount of grease on the thread to make it move smoothly. If you need to unlock seized threads then a good penetrant like PB blaster can help. There are some planes with steel adjusting wheels that get locked pretty hard and I have had to use a small torch to get them to move. If you get a little movement then put in the penetrant and wiggle it back and forth Until it loosens up. Make sure you wash and clean the threads as much as possible before you wind the adjustment wheel all the way out. You don’t want metal and sand to scratch the threads anymore than they are already.
Hand planes are one of the coolest tools to restore, and this one doesn’t disappoint. Great work polishing the brass and careful painting of the raised lettering. Great work😀👍!
Thank you Sir. Much appreciated.
I PICKED UP A BAILY #6 USA made super nice condition love old tools .
Nicely done.
Thanks for the visit
Hey, GREAT job! I liked your restoration so much that I’m going to use your method to restore a few planes I have. I’ve watched MANY restoration vids, but I liked yours the best. So thank you, and again, fantastic job!
Thank you Russ for the very kind words. Much appreciated.
Nice job. I like to use the Rustoleum Gloss Black oil paint on these. It is easy to brush on with decent flat artist brushes and makes it so I don't need to mask off. Ends up looking great and matches the originsl thicker paint. Again very nice job!
Appreciate the compliment and recommendations on the brush on paint.
Absolut beautiful result! Nice job. The tube is a great idea!!!
Thank you very much my friend. I made a similar tube when I restored the vintage steel fishing rod. It was only 1 inch (25mm) in diameter. I didn’t brother to mention or show it the video-a big mistake.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks Yes that is a small good detail. I'm sure you can use it in a future video np. Keep up the good work mate 😊👍
This is a nice restoration! Very great job.
Appreciate the kind words.
Brilliant use of the metallic paint marker!
Thank you so much.
Great video. I like your pull-focus shots in the reveal. And the camera angle from below when chucking up in the drill press - nice!
And, of course, the restoration was fantastic.
My lighting will, hopefully, be getting a bit better real soon. I have a new piece of equipment coming from B&H Photo. Thanks so much for the kind words.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks They're the best. I buy so much stuff from them.
This is a nice restoration on that great Stanley plane.
Great job, especially for a first restoration, but not the last?
Very cool well done.
Thank you sir!
You did a great job, looks fantastic!
Thank you my friend! 👍
This is awesome!
Thank you so much Karim. Much appreciated.
Top job mate, looks fantastic!, they are a big tool the no.6 plane, one is on my wish list.
Thanks 👍. I hope you find one.
Hey, you did a nice job. It looks like a plane that can be used as a working tool, not overly fancy.
Thank you Wes. Greatly appreciate the kind words.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice.
Thanks 👍 I appreciate the kind words my friend.
Excellent video!! By some of the comments, it sounds like you have worked with japanning. I haven’t got to that point yet but really curious to know more about your experience with japanning?
Хорошая работа👍
Thank you.
Thank you, this is really helpful.
Your kind words mean a lot. So nice to know that what I do is meaningful. Thank you my friend.
Looks great!
Thanks!
Beautiful work, mate!
Carlos! I appreciate the kind words.
Nice job!
Thanks.
Very impressive restoration. Would love to see you try your hand at japaning. Brilliant idea with the pvc as well.
I have acquired materials and a small stove. Working on a 220 right now. Thanks for comment and suggestion!
Well done! 👌🏼I noticed it had a Stanley Sweetheart blade in it. Very nice! First time I’ve ever seen someone weigh the grime. 😂. I like your Evaporust Dip tank. Take care. 😃👍🏼
Thanks David.
I found a Stanley number 6 in a rubbish skip some years ago, minus its rear handle and screw. It was well rusted but I couldn't believe anyone would discard such a lovely hand tool. I restored mine and found a supplier of all the bits on the internet. Yours is an excellent project, first class, superb video. loved the speech free idea. I'm old, my hearing is poor due to decades of working in noise without ear protection and often videos are spoiled by slovenly speech, strong dialect and excessive, meaningless talk. In fact I stopped watching a similar no6 restoration video simply because of the bucket loads of meaningless talk. This was a real pleasure to watch and the end result was superb. The workshop even resembles mine in rural North East England. Thanks for sharing.
Very kind words from across the pond (unless you’re that other guy that made the chatty No. 6 restoration video). Thanks so much Andy, this made my day.
“Kind words are like honey sweet to the soul and healthy for the body.” Proverbs 16:24
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks No, I'm not he. Thanks for your reply. Liked Proverbs 16:24. 9 verse 10 is one of my favorites and 15 verse 1 a close favourite. Thank you again
Nice tip about using a tube for cleaning the plane body.
Thank you so much. Good to know that you found some useful information in my video. Happy New Year!
LOL! Yes, it is Lou. Sort of like "Putting a brick (or two, or three) in the toilet tank to 'Save the Planet'" in the '60's. (Displacement of interior volume by filling space with object(s) requires less liquid in container to immerse plane body, etc.)
Love me a #6 fore plane. I use one all the time.
Nice restoration. Thanks!
P.S. Have you ever tried using gunsmithing screwdrivers? They are ground to maximize grip in the screw slots. They can make a big difference in (1) getting out seized screws, and (2) keeping the screw-head slots undamaged. They are especially helpful with brass screws.
Thank you Jerry. This was a first for me. Huge learning curve. I watch dozens of TH-cam before beginning. That No 6 was very forgiving. My second plane restore was the No 5 and it too was not a devil. The screws on the No 5 we’re not in great shape when I got it due to the reason you pointed out.
Next I have a No 4 and I will attempt to “preserve” as opposed to grinding restoration. The japanning is a bit better but chipped in places. Still lots of rust. The No 4 has rosewood that is in great shape but the logo decal is long got. Hope to post a video early March. Look for my gunsmith screwdriver!!
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks I have rebuilt and restored a number of Stanley planes. I have always found the process very interesting and rewarding. (My least favorite part is japanning, I must admit.😎)
As you are doing, I began with #4s, #5s, and #6s -- in that order -- because they are easy to find, as are their parts, and they are affordable. Most importantly, they are great planes to use in the shop.
Even if you "build" a plane out of parts from several others, you still end up with a very good daily-use plane -- a plane that might just be better, maybe a lot better, than a new plane that costs more (and which probably needs a lot of tuning, anyway).
I'm a plane user, not a plane collector, so that's my view. And, as you do, I like to help out friends when I can. It's all good.
BTW: You can make a great gift by getting a used Stanley plane that has plastic knobs and totes (cheap but U.G.L.Y.) and replacing them with knobs and totes you make yourself. It's easy and the results can be really nice -- both to look at and to use -- especially if you replace the steel knob and tote screws, and especially the plastic adjuster knob, with brasses. EBAY rules!
Best regards and good luck with all your builds. Thanks.
@@jerrystark3587 Best comment my channel has ever receive. Thank you my friend
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks You are very kind. Regards, respects, and best wishes.
Good idea chucking them up in press
Thanks so much.
Nice job. I've got a number 4 ans a number 4 1/2 I've got to restore but I've been putting it off for ages. Did you flatten and sharpen it yet?
Thank you. I’ve not flattered but recently got a granite slab so I have a nice surface to work on.
Great job with the restoration, you really did a thorough job. While Stanley made millions of planes and thus their dollar value isn't that high, they are very functional and are well-made and can still work as good as they day they were made if restored as you have done. I do some hand tool restoration myself and have yet to try Evaporust. I use plain 5% vinegar and let the steel parts marinate in a pan filled with it for three or four days then use the wire brush on my grinder to remove it . Generally the rust comes right off and it is hard to beat the price on generic vinegar, about $1.50/gallon.
Truth. I’ve bought two gallons of EvapoRust so I’m out about US$60. It seems to not degrade even though it is getting real nasty looking. One thing I’ve learned is to clean all items with a good degreaser then toss into the EvapoRust. Thanks again for the kind words my friend.
This felt like deja vue as I restored a pair of Stanley Bailey No 51/2's a month ago - one made in 1932 and the other in the early 1960's. The older one is by far he better tool when it comes to cutting.
Thank you for the comment. Would live to see your planes. Do you have photos posted somewhere?
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks I do run a TH-cam channel - but instead of woodworking and tools its all about the UK canal system! I am trying hard not to muddle the two interests. Happy to e-mail them.
Nice job.
I've picked up a fair amount of small hand planes from garage sales. I get them for $1 to $5. I have gotten some larger ones for $5 to $10. The hardest part is flattening the underside and you would need a surface grinder along with a proper jig to ensure you don't break the ears.
Thanks for the compliment.
Bought a Number 6C Type 11 today. It's in great condition for a 100+ year old plane. Most of the japanning is intact but there are a couple of rust spots on the toe and heel. Not sure if I should just remove the rust or rejapan it. I bought it to use but I'd like to keep it as close to original condition as possible.
I’d just clean with mineral spirits and a nylon bristle brush, then wipe with a clean soft cloth. Wait a day or so for mineral spirts to evaporate then(final step) wax the entire tool. Many folks like Simoniz floor wax but I recently started using Axe Wax. Axe Wax is not a slippery.
And if down the road you decide to patch those spots with no Japanning you’ll be fine.
And congratulations on finding an awesome old Stanley.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks One more question: can I use Evaporust on the plane bed without damaging the intact japanning? I've only derusted cheap tools so far. Nothing collectible before now.
EvapoRust is not an acidic type of rust remover. It only reacts with rust (iron oxide). EvapoRust has not harmed or affected the paint or Japanning on old planes.
It looks great! Kept about 90% of the original japanning. 😁
"First time ever", or not, you did a very nice job. Although my heart was in my throat every time you used those taper ground flat blade screwdrivers on the slotted screws. At some point, you might consider a set of Gun Smithing hollow ground screwdrivers. (They're ground to fit the sides of the slots and still go all the way to the bottom. That greatly improves the chances that they won't slip and mar the slot.)
[Addendum: Having read your "Disclaimer", I'm reaching the conclusion that, especially in today's litigious society, "Shakespeare was right".]
John, thank you so much. Now I know I need to keep my eyes open for some gun smithing screwdrivers. I really appreciate the compliment.
yes John, KILL ALL THE LAWYERS!!!
FYI: This video now has chapters (or time stamps) which appear at the bottom of the video. They also appear in the description!
Well done. I would have used two nuts jammed to remove the tote stud.
Thanks for the tip. Much appreciated.
bruv they origenally would have had shellac
True! Thanks so much for the comment. Check out my "Giveaway" video. Would like to see you win!
Wheres the logo on the cap iron? Huh
Hey, Huh. Look on my Instagram. You will find two high quality still photos which clearly show the Sweetheart logo. I’ve got to know, are you a member of the logo patrol? Huh
Hey Huh! I just posted my second hand plane restoration. I took great pains to show the “logo” on the iron. And on the lever cap as well! What do you think?
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeksim not an expert on planes exactly, so thank you for the correction mister! And ill be sure ti check out that video 😁
Well the original handles we're rosewood not walnut. It needs about three good coats of enamel which is then baked for around two hours. You sprayed very light coats. The plane iron is bent. Something I do because it's cast iron is bleed the metal before painting with a torch and paper towel. I also do the same for bottom after finishing and coat with candle wax. Cast iron is porous and holds water and oils very well.
Otherwise good job you didn't break anything and it looks fairly good.
@Jacilynn S Are you like president of The Hand Plane Experts Society? You obviously really know your stuff. FYI, I did not document each and every step. The plane actually got 3 coats of rattle can paint. I feel 3 light coats are better so there are not runs and puddles of paint. Since completing this restoration I have purchased AXE WAX and this item has received 3 good coats and a buffing so it well protected. Since making this video (something a knowledgeable individual such as yourself should do) I have restored two other planes and, although I have not arrived at the very pinnacle of plane restoration, I have made a bit of progress. I sacrificed an 220 block plane to get exposed to Japanning. Have you every try Japanning?
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks I just pointed out ways to improve the plane restorations. I did mention it was otherwise a good job.
Sorry if you felt offended was not my intention.
no I have not tried cold blueing of objects to do Japanning. I prefer the baked enamel finish myself.
👍
👍👍
The patent date is April 19th, 1910.
Et ce que tu es train de faire, je l'ai fait sans faire des videos nii le buzz
Precisa melhorar a iluminação, pois a maioria do vídeo a imagem aparece desfocada, com sombra e escura. De resto, parabéns pela restauração, mesmo que sem afiação. (You need to improve the lighting, because most of the video the image appears blurred, shaded and dark. For the rest, congratulations on the restoration, even without sharpening.)
I see you have created exactly ZERO video and posted exactly ZERO on TH-cam. I suggest adjusting the brightness on your screen. And getting some reading glasses. Otherwise, thanks for the comment.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks Depois desta resposta, dizer mais o que!?
I sometimes do begin to wonder, just how many copies, of this wood shop tool were sold? 🔧 🔨 🗜 🧰 🔍 🛠
Now you have me wondering: 5,000? 50,000? 500,000?
USA population in 1920 was 106 million. Just wild guessing considering market demographics I would think that selling 500,000 would be stretch. I’m not a marketing person.