Thanks, as soon as you first hit on the shaving deflector I remembered I had one in a drawer and had no idea what it was. I have a complete Stanley Works(UK version) no 50 so I didn't need it. But it is smaller then the one that comes from the no50. Possibly from a similar plane just a different manufacturer maybe. Like a record equivalent.
Excellent work! Only things I may have done in addition would be to lap the bottom to ensure it’s perfectly flat and set a copper pin in the rear handle from underneath to strengthen the bond. I wouldn’t have thought about the miniature panting which was a beautiful touch!
Buen trabajo señor! Los trabajos de pintura, me gustaron mucho. Tengo un type 17 con su diferente tuerca de ajuste, que lo hace especial. Mis saludos desde Uruguay- Sud América.
Very nice job! Well done. Enjoy it. I have a couple of old Stanley planes that were my fathers that I used as a kid and still use them today. My daughter has bought me three Veritas planes over the past ten years, the apron, the block and the 5-1/2, low angle planes that will be handed down to my sons and grandsons some day. There is no better feeling than sharpening those plane blades yourself, reload them and take off a .001” shaving. Perfect!!
Nice work. I like videos that show a restoration without the fluff of making new screws on a lathe. The steps you took could be done in most shops and you showed us how. Thank you.
I finally get to see the old fashion Stanley jack plane restored. Is this the first time for me? We've used these kinds if wood shop tools for years. 🙌
I have a no. 5 Stanley in my shop now that needs restoration, this video is an excellent tutorial! Really like how you made that clamp to repair the tote handle. Your camera work is excellent, tells the story very clearly without need for narration.
Those hand planes are really thing of beauty. recently got one at meet and I am gearing towards restoring it as well. Great job making your look new and love the story of the item going back to family!
Restoration hand planes exposes you to so many aspects of restoration. Any when you’re done you have a very useful tool that is a part of you. I restored a little 220 block plane to learn a bit about Japanning. Is a challenge for sure. Again, thanks so much for your kind words.
@@DANYMITERESTORATION most hand planes are not rare or extremely valuable. When designed Stanley made a plane he usually made and sold thousands and thousands. That said even if you mess one up you won’t be out much. Visit this website to figure out what type Stanley you have: woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks That is fantastic resource - thank you so much - and you are right. I paid $5 at the meet for it but it is worth so much more to me. Hope to share my vid soon. Stay well.
Awesome restoration. Thank you so much. It really turned out great. The detail with the white paint maker was a first and made it stand out. So very cool man. Much respect all.the way from South Africa.👍👍👌👌
Nice job. The type 17’s were made from ‘42-45. Type 18’s were made in ‘46-47 and had a distinct diagonal knurling on the brass adjustment knobs that were reintroduced post-war. Only version to have those.
Thanks for clarifying. I used woodandshop.com. I appreciate the compliment. As you can see I had to replace the lever cap. An Instagram friend offered to give me a replacement for the cost of postage, I sent him $20 for his time and effort. It has the kidney bean hole. Is using this replacement a major breech of Stanley hand plane etiquette?
With the painted enamel surface, do you need to clear coat it? I take it you wouldn’t be able to clean the surface with acetone or mineral spirits in the future?
In the future I’ll spritz it with WD40 wipe down to cleanse, wait a few hours and then give it a light waxing with Axe Wax. Friction points will get a tiny dose of 3 in 1 machine oil.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks sounds like a good idea to wipe down with WD-40. I have Johnson’s paste wax that I may use to wipe on the metal parts at least on the sole bottom.
Another fantastic restoration! I really like your paint job, especially with the touch of Testor’s red. One question though about your tote repair (because I have to make the exact same kind of repair): are you confident in the strength of Titebond 3 for such an application, as opposed to using epoxy (which I was planning on using)? Many thanks for the great video.
I am not qualified to answer as I’ve never put that comparison to a test. This particular plane is going to be a wall hanger in the home of grandson of original owner so it will work great. Epoxy would work great I am sure and if you’re going to be giving your plane some real work then I’d feel fine using epoxy. I hope one or two of the 10,000+ experts on TH-cam would chime in on this issue.
A TH-camr has a channel called Project Farm. He has a good review of various wood glues that should give you some insight. Title is “Which Wood Glue is Best?”
In this case, since the tote is made of beech, the titebond should provide excellent strength. If you're working with a rosewood tote (found on all the pre-war baileys) then you'll want to use epoxy since the rosewood is more oily. Put a few drops of a dark brown dye in the epoxy and it should make a nearly invisible repair.
J.D., Did you make a video? Or post photos on Instagram? I’ll have to dig to find what finish that was used. I really don’t think it was rosewood but I’m not an expert at wood I.d. Thanks for the kind words.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks No I did not post or make a video. I had some of granddads old planes and have been checking out how to restore to good workers. That stain looked good on that light wood. You did a real nice job.
@@darrylportelli I got confused with another project. I need to research to see what I used on that Stanley. That reply about Hunter Green was TOTALLY INCORRECT. So sorry.
@@darrylportelli The No. 5 Stanley was painted with Rust-Oleum Universal All Surface Metallic “Oil Rubbed Bronze” Spray Paint and Primer in One. Comes in a 11 oz. shaker can.
@@davidozab2753 Sharpie may be easy to remove. Use a Q-tip with a small amount of mineral spirits and test a small spot to see if the Sharpie comes off. Mineral spirits should not affect the original paint. If mineral spirits does not work, try alcohol. Finally, as a last resort try acetone. Acetone is a last resort. If used lightly it may remove the Sharpie with little affect on the original paint. If you pour on a lot of acetone and rub hard it will mess up the original paint finish. Sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner. I was in process to getting an old 1994 Buick Roadmaster running. Was successful. After spending $120 for a new battery. 😑
Beautiful
Its a very nice feeling bringing a forgotten tool back to life...and making it look good in the process..👏👏
Couldn't agree more!
Very nice. I’m restoring a number 5 now and your video is the best I’ve seen…period. Great work.
Wow, best comment I’ve received in years. Thank you so very much.
Good job . I love saving old tools. I get a little upset going into Cracker Barrel. Like seeing a good old fellow bama guy on here.
I love the clamp for gluing the tote!!!
That turned out really nice.
@@_BigLife_ thank you.
Thanks, as soon as you first hit on the shaving deflector I remembered I had one in a drawer and had no idea what it was. I have a complete Stanley Works(UK version) no 50 so I didn't need it. But it is smaller then the one that comes from the no50. Possibly from a similar plane just a different manufacturer maybe. Like a record equivalent.
Excellent painting. Like.
Thank you.
Fantastic job!
Thank you.
Excellent work! Only things I may have done in addition would be to lap the bottom to ensure it’s perfectly flat and set a copper pin in the rear handle from underneath to strengthen the bond. I wouldn’t have thought about the miniature panting which was a beautiful touch!
Great tips! Thanks for the positive comments!
Well done Sir! It's great that the plane is being kept in the family and that you made your mark on it by restoring it. Great tips as well!
Thank you very much Lonnie. Encouragement is a wonderful thing.
Beautiful!
My father just gave me one of these, in about the same condition yours started in. This video is about to be viewed a LOT as I restore it.
Glad you have found my video helpful. Thanks for the excellent comment.
Great details
Thanks so much.
Very well restored that’s exactly what I going to whit my one thanks my friend and happy new year I said hello from London and Colombia
Thank you mucho my friend.
Thank you Sir 🎉
Nice job!
Great job! Thanks for sharing! You won yourself a new subscriber! 👍
Thanks so much Frederik! 👍
Very nice work!
Buen trabajo señor! Los trabajos de pintura, me gustaron mucho.
Tengo un type 17 con su diferente tuerca de ajuste, que lo hace especial.
Mis saludos desde Uruguay- Sud América.
AMAZING. I wouldnt ever think of puting little swabs in the screw holes when re-japaning the inside of the plane! You go dude 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Wow. Amazing job. That's was in pretty rough condition.
Very nice job! Well done. Enjoy it. I have a couple of old Stanley planes that were my fathers that I used as a kid and still use them today. My daughter has bought me three Veritas planes over the past ten years, the apron, the block and the 5-1/2, low angle planes that will be handed down to my sons and grandsons some day. There is no better feeling than sharpening those plane blades yourself, reload them and take off a .001” shaving. Perfect!!
Thanks so much for your kind words. Your daughters are very thoughtful.
I'm just curious why you used red on the Stanley lever cap instead of orange... You did awesome job restoring 👍 👍...but just curious
I thought red was the proper color, but I didn't give it a lot of thought. Thanks for the kind words.
Nice work. I like videos that show a restoration without the fluff of making new screws on a lathe. The steps you took could be done in most shops and you showed us how. Thank you.
Thank you sir.
Great restoration!
Interesting fact:
The lever cap on the type 17 (this plane) didn’t have any nickel plating or orange paint on the logo
Tell me more about the paint pen. Excellent workmanship!
@@darylwood8509 pen is a “Paint Marker.” Available at Hobby Lobby in several metallic colors, silver, gold, bronze. They are permanent.
Great job! It turned out really nice but I’m curious how you removed the old japanning from the body?
I finally get to see the old fashion Stanley jack plane restored. Is this the first time for me? We've used these kinds if wood shop tools for years. 🙌
Bellissimo!
grazie amico mio.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks Prego. Ne ho di tipo numero tre che fu del mio nonno; mi uso ogni giorno.
Excelente trabajo, saludos desde Chile.
Beautiful job! What kind of black paint did you use?
Rustoleum universal metallic "oil rubbed bronze"
Another beauty!
Incredible job Wray! I'm blown away!
Thank you my friend.
Excellent job on this one. Top.
Thank you kind sir!
I have a no. 5 Stanley in my shop now that needs restoration, this video is an excellent tutorial! Really like how you made that clamp to repair the tote handle. Your camera work is excellent, tells the story very clearly without need for narration.
Thank you for the kind words. Sincerely appreciated my friend.
Beautiful job!
Thank you my friend.
I like that improvised clamp you made for gluing up the handle!
Much appreciated Magdad. Still learning my way around analytics. 🫤
Those hand planes are really thing of beauty. recently got one at meet and I am gearing towards restoring it as well. Great job making your look new and love the story of the item going back to family!
Restoration hand planes exposes you to so many aspects of restoration. Any when you’re done you have a very useful tool that is a part of you. I restored a little 220 block plane to learn a bit about Japanning. Is a challenge for sure. Again, thanks so much for your kind words.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks am little apprehensive doing my first one but will try my hand at it. And if I get stuck I can look up yours:) Stay well!
@@DANYMITERESTORATION most hand planes are not rare or extremely valuable. When designed Stanley made a plane he usually made and sold thousands and thousands. That said even if you mess one up you won’t be out much. Visit this website to figure out what type Stanley you have: woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks That is fantastic resource - thank you so much - and you are right. I paid $5 at the meet for it but it is worth so much more to me. Hope to share my vid soon. Stay well.
Absolutely amazing. You made it a showpiece.
Smooth
Thanks so much!
Really nice restoration.
Thank you my friend. Much appreciated.
Amazing job
Thank you so much.
Thank you for filming this👍🏼, I have a few old Stanley planes lined up to try this one day.
You’re welcome. Appreciate the kind words.
Awesome restoration. Thank you so much. It really turned out great. The detail with the white paint maker was a first and made it stand out. So very cool man. Much respect all.the way from South Africa.👍👍👌👌
Thank you Cheslyn. You’re very kind.
excellent video
Thank you Paul.
Which liquid rust removal solution do you use?
EvapoRust is my go to.
Awesome vid!
Thanks ! I appreciated the kind words. Check out my "GIveaway" video, would love to see you win my 3 little tools!
The Testor's red was a nice touch!
That was an absolutely beautiful restoration. I am searching for s Stanley Bailey and hope to do a nice restoration like yours.
Thanks for the kind words John.
Suggestion if I may, buy some soft jaws for the vice off EBay, makes a big difference in no damage to parts. Cheers from Tasmania
Thank you sir. Added leather to face of grips a few months ago. Works great. Appreciate you watching my video.
Awesome restoration. What minwax color you used?
Thank you sir. Will get back to you with MINWAX info.
Nice job but you should have flattened the sole
You are right. I just don't have anything that I trust is truly flat.
What kind of oil did you apply over the stain?
That was low gloss polyurethane. It was old and had lost its clarity but worked well.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks thanks
excellent job meticulous
Appreciate the kind words.
Nice job. The type 17’s were made from ‘42-45. Type 18’s were made in ‘46-47 and had a distinct diagonal knurling on the brass adjustment knobs that were reintroduced post-war. Only version to have those.
Thanks for clarifying. I used woodandshop.com. I appreciate the compliment. As you can see I had to replace the lever cap. An Instagram friend offered to give me a replacement for the cost of postage, I sent him $20 for his time and effort. It has the kidney bean hole. Is using this replacement a major breech of Stanley hand plane etiquette?
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks That’s a good friend right there to offer you that. Happy woodworking!
With the painted enamel surface, do you need to clear coat it? I take it you wouldn’t be able to clean the surface with acetone or mineral spirits in the future?
In the future I’ll spritz it with WD40 wipe down to cleanse, wait a few hours and then give it a light waxing with Axe Wax. Friction points will get a tiny dose of 3 in 1 machine oil.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks hh
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks sounds like a good idea to wipe down with WD-40. I have Johnson’s paste wax that I may use to wipe on the metal parts at least on the sole bottom.
Another fantastic restoration! I really like your paint job, especially with the touch of Testor’s red. One question though about your tote repair (because I have to make the exact same kind of repair): are you confident in the strength of Titebond 3 for such an application, as opposed to using epoxy (which I was planning on using)? Many thanks for the great video.
I am not qualified to answer as I’ve never put that comparison to a test. This particular plane is going to be a wall hanger in the home of grandson of original owner so it will work great.
Epoxy would work great I am sure and if you’re going to be giving your plane some real work then I’d feel fine using epoxy.
I hope one or two of the 10,000+ experts on TH-cam would chime in on this issue.
A TH-camr has a channel called Project Farm. He has a good review of various wood glues that should give you some insight. Title is “Which Wood Glue is Best?”
In this case, since the tote is made of beech, the titebond should provide excellent strength. If you're working with a rosewood tote (found on all the pre-war baileys) then you'll want to use epoxy since the rosewood is more oily. Put a few drops of a dark brown dye in the epoxy and it should make a nearly invisible repair.
Excellent advice, thank you Todd!
@@toddulery Thank you so much, Todd, that is indeed excellent advice! Much appreciated.
Nice. Did a #3 same type. Nice job. Was tote Rose wood? Seemed light when you scraped it. Also what Minwax stain was used? Looked good.
J.D., Did you make a video? Or post photos on Instagram? I’ll have to dig to find what finish that was used. I really don’t think it was rosewood but I’m not an expert at wood I.d. Thanks for the kind words.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks No I did not post or make a video. I had some of granddads old planes and have been checking out how to restore to good workers. That stain looked good on that light wood. You did a real nice job.
That stain was MINWAX Wood Finish Provincial 211. I then applied 2 light coats of clear polyurethane.
That's super nice. Does the Evaporust take off the old japaning too?
It does not remove Japanning or paint.
Thanks for the compliment RPG!
Is it a satin finish or a matte ? I really like it !!!
It is a gloss finish. Nice and shiny if you remove the dust buildup. 😎
What was the spray finish that you used please ? As it is stunning
@@darrylportelli I got confused with another project. I need to research to see what I used on that Stanley. That reply about Hunter Green was TOTALLY INCORRECT. So sorry.
@@darrylportelli The No. 5 Stanley was painted with Rust-Oleum Universal All Surface Metallic “Oil Rubbed Bronze” Spray Paint and Primer in One. Comes in a 11 oz. shaker can.
Smeared the 'Bailey' on the front of my 5 1/4 😟 Suggestions on how to clean it up (preferably without stripping the original paint underneath)?
What kind/brand of paint did you use on the lettering?
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks Sharpie
@@davidozab2753 Sharpie may be easy to remove. Use a Q-tip with a small amount of mineral spirits and test a small spot to see if the Sharpie comes off. Mineral spirits should not affect the original paint. If mineral spirits does not work, try alcohol. Finally, as a last resort try acetone.
Acetone is a last resort. If used lightly it may remove the Sharpie with little affect on the original paint. If you pour on a lot of acetone and rub hard it will mess up the original paint finish.
Sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner. I was in process to getting an old 1994 Buick Roadmaster running. Was successful. After spending $120 for a new battery. 😑
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks Success! Thanks 😊
That’s great! I was feeling a lot of pressure. Sure did not want to be responsible if things didn’t go well.
Was that a grunt at 1:57?... 😀
Probably.
Where are you in Alabama?
NW corner, what is called the Shoals area on the Tennessee River.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks I'm in the Trussville area.
Wife’s from Oneonta, Trussville has the closest Home Depot for her family so we’ve been they a few times.
@@RestorationbyAlabamaCreeks As have I. Live right down the street.
you dident show the sharpening and the flatening of the sole
😐
That turned out really nice.
Really appreciate the comment.
Nice job!!!
Thank you Sir.