Wow, what a difference! Before: like the sound from a pair of earbuds on the other side of a room After: like the sound of bass coming from a boom box right under your desk. Great content by the way; loved the music choices.
Thank you very much! I’m so agree with you 😄 When I finished screwing everything after mods, I was shocked! I’m pretty sure I drop a « wow » on the B-roll 😂
A friend of mine has this board and tried so many mods to make it thocky, he has cream yellows and even feker matchas but he can't seem to make it thock since the board makes it poppy, but he said he switched the stabs from screw in to plate mounted and it really made the difference
I agree with your friend. The fact that the stabs are screwed in and stabilized is super important in the sound. I've never tested a Feker switch, but the well-lubricated Milky Yellow are a game changer for me here. Maybe he could also try a force break mod (small piece of tape around screw hole on the top or bottom case) to avoid any parasitic noise coming from the case.
@@Ferakeebs that was the first thing he was excited about and tried it since it was his first aluminum board. He tried every mod possible until he tried the stabs. The lessened resistance to vibration due to the screw in really made thocky switches like the cream yellows poppy but since he replaced it with plate mounts, the pcb loosened and it really made the difference in sound profile.
To me it depends of quantity of lube and how you want your switch sound like. I only apply a really thin layer of lube on them. I try on the first one, if it's mushy I don't apply on the stem of the other.
To me, the main think appear to be the switch lube because the case has already foam in it. (I made a quick test without the tape mode off-camera). The tape mode helps to achieve a slightly deeper sound and it's the cherry on the top.
@@Ferakeebs thanks for the reply! I'm getting Wuque heavy linears, I hear they do a good factory lube. I'm getting the M1 too so here's hoping mine sounds even a bit as good as yours :)
@@kevink2859 You're welcome! It's the least I can do! I'm very interested in Wuque Studio switches. I haven't had a chance to test them yet. Your build sounds cool! Don't hesitate to post your feedback or a link if you ever do a sound test!
Hahaha thank you so much! "This trick is performed by a professional, so don't try to reproduce it at home!" 😂 Indeed, I did after shooting the video. But I have to admit I didn't notice any difference on my model. The two parts of the body didn't move at all and didn't produce any noise. But I totally agree with you!
I used to lubricate the springs with 205g0 but it's not very effective. Lubrication isn't uniform and takes a long time. Here I lubricated the springs with GPL 105.
I don't think you can remove just the stem, you have to unsolder the whole potentiometer. But it's a great project to replace it with a screen, I can't wait to see the result!
yes it's "true". In fact, is more like 4 pins ^^' There's not enough room for a hole for one of the small PINs. I was not aware when I put the switch and it take me a bit of time before I understand. So you just cut one of the plastic pin and It's good to go.
The Akko website states that the QMK / VIA support is only for the international version. Does that mean the ISO version doesn't have this feature? Does your version of the keyboard have QMK / VIA support?
It was not out of the box for me. I didn't notice this before I bought it... But on their website, you can find a JSON file to import into VIA for the keyboard to be detected. It was a bit confusing, but once I'd done it, I was able to reconfigure the keyboard as I wanted. It's probably the same for QMK but I didin't test with this one.
Je fais ça au montage sur Premiere Pro. J'enregistre mon écran en même temps que je film et j'insère l'enregistrement au montage avec différents filtre pour faire un effet "fond vert".
Hello j'aimerais monter mon premier clavier moi même mais sans tomber dans le kit tout fait. Aurais tu des suggestions peut etre de video ou meme de site pour avoir des informations sur le modding de clavier ?
Il y a pas mal de vidéo en anglais comme celles de Alexotos ou celles de Taeha Types. Sinon en FR, j'avoue que j'en connais moins :/ Après tout dépends le kit que tu prends mais tu as de plus en plus de marques qui fournissent des vidéos étapes par étapes sur le montage.
très intéressant et propre la vidéo, je viens de me lancer dans le hobby et j'ai été intrigué par une chose, comment est ce que tu écris tes accents, tu as fait des macros ou juste tu les mets pas pendant le test de vitesse de frappe? je trouve ta fuidité de frappe ouf tu connais grave bien le layout iso fr meme sans légendes sur les keycaps
Merci pour tous ces compliments ! Ca fait super plaisir ! ☺ Les keycaps sont en Qwerty mais le clavier est configuré en AZERTY sur le PC (ou le Mac en fonction de la machine que j'utilise) donc les accents sont placé au même endroit qu'un clavier "classique". Encore merci ! J'avoue que certains test de frappe sont catastrophiques et il me faut parfois 10 prises avant d'avoir un résultat correct 😅
Hi, to be honest, I've never put film on my switches; so I couldn't tell you. But to me, these Milky Yellow switches sound already sound great just lubricated.
Switch film is to reduce stem wobble. I’ve used it on gateron milky yellows and gateron browns and they don’t make a difference in sound that you would be able to hear
@@andrewwilson1302 Thank you for these clarifications! I need to try on switch others switches, I think it could be interesting with my Banana Split switches.
It surprised me too after reassembly, but I didn't change my setup at all between the two typing tests. The second was done 24 hours after the first on the same PC, with the UM1 mic and recorded on Audacity. Most of the change came from the lubricated switches. I still have a few more unlubricated switches and the difference is huge.
Yes, but it's important to remember that we're talking about a DIY kit of a 75% keyboard with an aluminum chassis. Prices are starting to fall in this market. We're starting to see other kits arriving in this price range with products of this quality (or better), but it's not yet the majority. And this Monsgeek is still very competitively priced for this type of product, in my opinion. But I totally understand that not everyone has that kind of money to put into a keyboard. It's totally normal.
I can totally understand! I admit I wondered about it at first, but I personally prefer the aftermath. Maybe because I find the typing feeling more pleasant also 🤔
![[UNCUT]"ทนายตั้ม" แฉยับ! ความลับสวรรค์ ใครคือ "บิ๊กเทวดา" ของบอสพอล l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l 15 ต.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ru9fpSaUwdA/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, what a difference!
Before: like the sound from a pair of earbuds on the other side of a room
After: like the sound of bass coming from a boom box right under your desk.
Great content by the way; loved the music choices.
Thank you very much! I’m so agree with you 😄 When I finished screwing everything after mods, I was shocked! I’m pretty sure I drop a « wow » on the B-roll 😂
I love this video. you are a great creator! I hope one day you get a lot of subscribers. I'm glad to be one of your first! Good Luck!
Thank you so much for this comment! It's super motivating! 🔥
I agree
@@ulrikcramerandersen5824 Thank you so much!
Can you build this for me. Ill pay for it
Running it with matcha greens, few mods and ghost judges keycaps. This board sound so deep.
Indeed this board can make nice deep sound!
A friend of mine has this board and tried so many mods to make it thocky, he has cream yellows and even feker matchas but he can't seem to make it thock since the board makes it poppy, but he said he switched the stabs from screw in to plate mounted and it really made the difference
I agree with your friend. The fact that the stabs are screwed in and stabilized is super important in the sound. I've never tested a Feker switch, but the well-lubricated Milky Yellow are a game changer for me here.
Maybe he could also try a force break mod (small piece of tape around screw hole on the top or bottom case) to avoid any parasitic noise coming from the case.
@@Ferakeebs that was the first thing he was excited about and tried it since it was his first aluminum board. He tried every mod possible until he tried the stabs. The lessened resistance to vibration due to the screw in really made thocky switches like the cream yellows poppy but since he replaced it with plate mounts, the pcb loosened and it really made the difference in sound profile.
what made you lube the switch stems? Doesnt that usually make the switches feel mushy?
To me it depends of quantity of lube and how you want your switch sound like. I only apply a really thin layer of lube on them. I try on the first one, if it's mushy I don't apply on the stem of the other.
How did you manage to get it sounding that much thockier!? Do you reckon it was mainly the tape mod that did it or was it also the switch lube?
To me, the main think appear to be the switch lube because the case has already foam in it. (I made a quick test without the tape mode off-camera).
The tape mode helps to achieve a slightly deeper sound and it's the cherry on the top.
@@Ferakeebs thanks for the reply! I'm getting Wuque heavy linears, I hear they do a good factory lube. I'm getting the M1 too so here's hoping mine sounds even a bit as good as yours :)
@@kevink2859 You're welcome! It's the least I can do!
I'm very interested in Wuque Studio switches. I haven't had a chance to test them yet.
Your build sounds cool! Don't hesitate to post your feedback or a link if you ever do a sound test!
Good video, keep up the good work!
Thank you so much! It's very motivating to read that!
1:43 WTH UR SO GOOD, overall u deserve a sub and like but I do recommend the force break mod for this keeb 😊
Hahaha thank you so much! "This trick is performed by a professional, so don't try to reproduce it at home!" 😂
Indeed, I did after shooting the video. But I have to admit I didn't notice any difference on my model. The two parts of the body didn't move at all and didn't produce any noise. But I totally agree with you!
For lubing the switches. Would you recommend just using the krytox 205g0 for the switches and the springs?
I used to lubricate the springs with 205g0 but it's not very effective. Lubrication isn't uniform and takes a long time. Here I lubricated the springs with GPL 105.
Do I really need to disassemble the PCB just to remove the stock plate-mounted stabs? The PCB foam seems to get in the way. Can I just force it out?
I'm not sure because I haven't tried this, but in my opinion, avoid forcing it. Don't take any risks to save time.
That sound.... 🤯
Yeah definitely! I never thought I'd get such a thocky sound!
The clack named thock?
Is it possible to remove the knob stem from the pcb? or is it hard baked in? I'm thinking if putting my own display in that corner.
I don't think you can remove just the stem, you have to unsolder the whole potentiometer. But it's a great project to replace it with a screen, I can't wait to see the result!
are those doubleshot keycaps or sublimation
It is sublimation. Price point is too low for doubleshot.
i heard that the enter key only supports 3 pin switches on the iso version is it true?
yes it's "true". In fact, is more like 4 pins ^^'
There's not enough room for a hole for one of the small PINs.
I was not aware when I put the switch and it take me a bit of time before I understand. So you just cut one of the plastic pin and It's good to go.
@@Ferakeebs oh alright i guess i will be fine going with 5 pin switches. thanks for the quick answer!
@@oscarsaxlund9271 Oh yes sure! You're welcome!
And it's only for the ISO PCB apparently.
Wait, how did you get the ISO version?:0
Yes, directly on the Akko Gear Europe website!
how many layers of tape?
Two here!
are the stabilizers screw on or just plug-in?
They are screwed onto the PCB.
The Akko website states that the QMK / VIA support is only for the international version.
Does that mean the ISO version doesn't have this feature?
Does your version of the keyboard have QMK / VIA support?
It was not out of the box for me. I didn't notice this before I bought it... But on their website, you can find a JSON file to import into VIA for the keyboard to be detected. It was a bit confusing, but once I'd done it, I was able to reconfigure the keyboard as I wanted.
It's probably the same for QMK but I didin't test with this one.
Comment tu fais pour que ce que tu tapes sur Monkeytype apparaisse sur ta vidéo en transparence ?
Je fais ça au montage sur Premiere Pro. J'enregistre mon écran en même temps que je film et j'insère l'enregistrement au montage avec différents filtre pour faire un effet "fond vert".
@@Ferakeebs Ah oué quand même ! Merci pour le tips en tout cas c'est super classe comme effet ! 🤩
@@thraxlebuffle1634 Merci :D :D
what stabilizers are those?
These were the stabs supplied with the keyboard, so I think it was Akko's Screw-in Stabilizer in mint color.
Hello j'aimerais monter mon premier clavier moi même mais sans tomber dans le kit tout fait. Aurais tu des suggestions peut etre de video ou meme de site pour avoir des informations sur le modding de clavier ?
Il y a pas mal de vidéo en anglais comme celles de Alexotos ou celles de Taeha Types. Sinon en FR, j'avoue que j'en connais moins :/
Après tout dépends le kit que tu prends mais tu as de plus en plus de marques qui fournissent des vidéos étapes par étapes sur le montage.
très intéressant et propre la vidéo, je viens de me lancer dans le hobby et j'ai été intrigué par une chose, comment est ce que tu écris tes accents, tu as fait des macros ou juste tu les mets pas pendant le test de vitesse de frappe? je trouve ta fuidité de frappe ouf tu connais grave bien le layout iso fr meme sans légendes sur les keycaps
Merci pour tous ces compliments ! Ca fait super plaisir ! ☺
Les keycaps sont en Qwerty mais le clavier est configuré en AZERTY sur le PC (ou le Mac en fonction de la machine que j'utilise) donc les accents sont placé au même endroit qu'un clavier "classique".
Encore merci ! J'avoue que certains test de frappe sont catastrophiques et il me faut parfois 10 prises avant d'avoir un résultat correct 😅
Hi , does putting switch films on gateron milky yellow pro can make it thockier? or is it minimal to no difference?
Hi, to be honest, I've never put film on my switches; so I couldn't tell you. But to me, these Milky Yellow switches sound already sound great just lubricated.
Switch film is to reduce stem wobble. I’ve used it on gateron milky yellows and gateron browns and they don’t make a difference in sound that you would be able to hear
@@andrewwilson1302 Thank you for these clarifications! I need to try on switch others switches, I think it could be interesting with my Banana Split switches.
Great Video!❤️
Where did you get those keycaps?🤤
Hi! Thanks!! ❤
From Amazon: amzn.to/46szPb5 :D
no way it sounds THAT different after the mods...you changed the mic position and/or settings for sure
It surprised me too after reassembly, but I didn't change my setup at all between the two typing tests.
The second was done 24 hours after the first on the same PC, with the UM1 mic and recorded on Audacity. Most of the change came from the lubricated switches. I still have a few more unlubricated switches and the difference is huge.
@@Ferakeebs thats crazy :o
@@KompletterGeist Yeah indeed! 🤯
soo crisp~
I got this keyboard. And mine isn’t thocky, it’s poppy. Really shows how much all components matter
I'm really happy to read your comment, and I totally agree with it! Everything is important, even the smallest details.
@@Ferakeebs Also, what key caps are those?
@@reficel It's a set from Amazon => amzn.to/3RW0PdU
@@Ferakeebs are they good quality? Thx btw
@@reficel They're really not bad, to be honest. Especially for that price. I mean if you like them, it's a really good price.
incroyable s'clavier
Ouais très bon ! Le rapport qualité / prix est très top !
Wait, $99-$129.99 USD for just the kit is considered budget? After switches and keycaps this will be in the $200 USD range..
Yes, but it's important to remember that we're talking about a DIY kit of a 75% keyboard with an aluminum chassis. Prices are starting to fall in this market. We're starting to see other kits arriving in this price range with products of this quality (or better), but it's not yet the majority. And this Monsgeek is still very competitively priced for this type of product, in my opinion.
But I totally understand that not everyone has that kind of money to put into a keyboard. It's totally normal.
Agree, if this is budget, 300 $ keyboards would be considered as normal.
Full alu board with VIA support, Sugar65 is the same price point, its budget
A quand la version ASMR ? 😉
Tu veux dire sans musique ou juste une vidéo longue de frappe ?
Soit t'es français soit t'es un barbare à l'avoir pris en iso 😂
Haha non non français 😂 mais j’aime bien là touche entrée ISO ! Ça donne un petit charme 😂
Ah j'avais pas vue le teste 😅
@@martinrubio5338 Y a pas de mal 😂
This makes me 🎉 my cherry
actually sounds better unmodded in my opinion, much more unique
I can totally understand! I admit I wondered about it at first, but I personally prefer the aftermath. Maybe because I find the typing feeling more pleasant also 🤔
yea much better
Thank you! yeah definitely!
What does THOCK mean? thick? lol
haha no more like a deep sound!
llmao why dont u get the m1w