Many thanks for the video! I recommend changing the oil pipes below the water pump at the same time (there are 2). If a leak develops on the water pump you will eventually find yourself with a very messy bilge. There are cupronickel replacements available on ebay- the Yanmar OEM ones are no good and will rust through- if it's all you've got then I would recommend some anti-corrosive coating.
Hi, working backwards using your video it seems I should be able to just pull the bearing back up the shaft then take the circlip off followed by the last bearing? I’m having trouble getting the 1st bearing off! is there a certain technique or tool you use? Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video. I like the idea of replacing the impeller cover screws with ‘tool-less’ ones. Do you know specifically what to get to replace these?
If there is a groove in the shaft where a seal has worn it, the new type oil seal with double lips may miss that groove? It may save the shaft from renewal?
Great video. Quick question, I have take the pump out and my impeller and seals were shot. I’ve cleaned up the case and a small aluminium “spacer” about 8mm came out from where the water seal goes. I can’t find a manual that even mentions this spacer. Does it sit between the seals, or does it sit in the casing so that the seal sit back to back? Pretty frustrating that there’s no mention of it anywhere.
great video. Are you happy with those 'thumb screws' ? Those are going to cost me $45 (with shipping to the US) and I wonder it there is enough clearance between the impeller cover and the crankshaft V-pulley for those 'thumb screws' to fit in there. Looks to me like the 1GM10 is very similar to my 1GM.
Hi again. I managed to remove the old seals. But fir the life of I can't get the new smaller inner seal back. It simply will not go despite following your video. Though on the smaller seal there is a washer that looks like a spring. Should that be there? Regards Barry
@@barrynorman732 yes it should be in there. I assume you’ve made sure that the hole is completely clean after the old seal is removed. After that, very important to press the new seal in squarely, like a bearing, if it’s not absolutely straight it won’t go in, or it’ll get damaged
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Nice instructional videos, thanks.
Nice! No parts left either.
Many thanks for the video! I recommend changing the oil pipes below the water pump at the same time (there are 2). If a leak develops on the water pump you will eventually find yourself with a very messy bilge. There are cupronickel replacements available on ebay- the Yanmar OEM ones are no good and will rust through- if it's all you've got then I would recommend some anti-corrosive coating.
Elliot Simon yup, I did exactly that in a previous video, for exactly that reason, from exactly that seller 😂😂😂
Do you have a link to the seller? Can't find the oil lines
Thanks a lot, verry helpful advices, thank you for sharring.
Catherine Chiasson you’re very welcome, I should’ve had the camera closer really. Glad ur was useful. It still isn’t leaking 🙂
Hi, working backwards using your video it seems I should be able to just pull the bearing back up the shaft then take the circlip off followed by the last bearing? I’m having trouble getting the 1st bearing off! is there a certain technique or tool you use?
Thanks for the video
Sorry, this was so long ago that I can't remember 😁
Thanks for the video. I like the idea of replacing the impeller cover screws with ‘tool-less’ ones. Do you know specifically what to get to replace these?
They're on eBay mate, 'thumb screws' for a 1gm10 impeller cover 👍
If there is a groove in the shaft where a seal has worn it, the new type oil seal with double lips may miss that groove? It may save the shaft from renewal?
Great video. Quick question, I have take the pump out and my impeller and seals were shot. I’ve cleaned up the case and a small aluminium “spacer” about 8mm came out from where the water seal goes. I can’t find a manual that even mentions this spacer. Does it sit between the seals, or does it sit in the casing so that the seal sit back to back? Pretty frustrating that there’s no mention of it anywhere.
I suspect, that you have a homemade solution to try to ensure that the seals can't be dislodged. I think it's unnecessary...
great video. Are you happy with those 'thumb screws' ? Those are going to cost me $45 (with shipping to the US) and I wonder it there is enough clearance between the impeller cover and the crankshaft V-pulley for those 'thumb screws' to fit in there. Looks to me like the 1GM10 is very similar to my 1GM.
45 bucks! Not cheap... Clearance is tight, and getting the screw behind the pulley wheel to engage is a bit tricky. But they do fit.
What was the kit part# you used.
Hi, sorry it was a while ago now and I can’t even remember where I got it from.
@@SVRoquetta no worries sure it won't be a problem finding it. Your video was useful. Heading now to find the parts I need
How did you remove the old seals?
With a small wooden drift from the impeller side and gentle tapping. It wasn’t difficult to get them out.
Hi again. I managed to remove the old seals. But fir the life of I can't get the new smaller inner seal back. It simply will not go despite following your video. Though on the smaller seal there is a washer that looks like a spring. Should that be there? Regards Barry
@@barrynorman732 yes it should be in there. I assume you’ve made sure that the hole is completely clean after the old seal is removed. After that, very important to press the new seal in squarely, like a bearing, if it’s not absolutely straight it won’t go in, or it’ll get damaged