Thanks for creating such a thorough video on changing out a clutch / your pleasant temperment makes the project interesting to watch as well as instructional / I have had the whole clutch assembly replaced in my 2000 4Runner twice in 6 months and now the master slave cylinder needs replacing AGAIN. So I searched for a tutorial to see what the heck might be going wrong and found your video. I hope this next trip to the mechanic works this time.
I've had no issues with aftermarket seals so far. But I also like using OEM parts. Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside when putting it back together.
The clutch in my 88 4runner v6 is original. 264,400 odd miles and she is still working perfect. Im going to try to squeeze 300,000 out of the clutch before I order a new one. All I can say is the new on is coming from Toyota.
i was so amazed at everything being cleaned and fresh for replacement then i saw the inside of the bell housing. vibration gonna shale that crud loose and set it right back into the clutch. but a great video none the less.
Little bit of dust isn't going to hurt anything. Also, if the engine is running nothing is getting into the clutch. See if you can stick your finger into a spinning fan.
At 8:06 I start to remove/replace the throwout bearing. Use whatever socket fits to pound the hub through the bearing, and use a slightly larger one to pound the new bearing's inner race over the hub.
Hi Alex, Your videos are great. However, how did you remove the threaded bolts/rods that went through the oil pan and attached the backplate to the oil pan?
I borrowed it from my grandfather. I don't have everything I need yet but my grandfather has been doing the same sort of thing for a long time. What I don't have I can usually borrow from him. I'm not sure how much a similar tool would cost today, or if it would work as good.
The things going through the oil pan towards the middle of the back plate are threaded rods and u can take off the nut with a wrench but the rods themselves can't be taken out with a wrench.
The way you left the old rear main seal in and put the new one in on top was pretty interesting. Did you have any leaks or problems with that later? I'm getting ready to replace mine which leaks pretty bad.
Ahh, I see. Mine had two bolts, not studs with nuts. If there is enough thread on the stud you can use the double nut technique to remove the studs, there are also tools called stud removers that are made specifically for this purpose.
It doesn't matter at all for the transmission. Just put it back together how it came apart and it will be fine. The transfer case you do need to be careful. The shifter can fit into two different notches in the rails when you put it back together. Make sure you put the shifter into the same notch it came out of. You can avoid this confusion by shifting the transfer case to 4H before disassembly since this effectively makes the two notches line up so you just put the shifter in and you'll be fine.
@enginerepairguy My dad is not a professional mechanic. He just likes to work on his own stuff and save money. I'm a mech at a motorcycle dealership but as you can see by my videos I like working on pretty much anything.
@Rangerscott69 I'm not sure why it gave out. The friction material must have just gotten brittle and fallen off. It was the original with 161xxx miles on it so it wasa time for it to go I suppose. And yep I forgot to mention that. Hopefully anyone doing this can figure that one out on their own.
@TheAlexManVideos You'd be surprised at how many people can't figure things out on their own. LOL Once the weather gets nice I'm really need to change out my clutch and flywheel. The material is even with the grooves. No slipping but it's getting there. Damn clutch has lasted since '01 through street/offroad/mudding. Wish I knew what brand it is so I could get another. It's gone through engine swaps too.
question, you didnt need to bleed your transmission?? im asking because im watching alot of videos of how to do this replacement because i need to do this to my car and in many other videos they bleed their transmission fluid before taken it down... i didnt find the screw to bleed my transmission. its a 2000 kia sportage diesel version, (not sold in US) so im a little confused rght now
The transmission in a manual transmission car does not need to be bled. If fluid needs to be replaced you simply drain it and refill, just like the engine oil. The clutch hydraulics will need to be bled if the system was opened, just like your brakes. I cannot speak for your specific vehicle.
I forget what year it changed, but early types had the throwout bearing hub and throwout bearing as two separate pieces. The hub was re-used and the bearing was replaced. Later types were a once piece design. The later types will only go on one way. The early types, like what is in this video, would not work if installed backward. The non-rotating inner race of the throwout bearing would contact the pressure plate fingers instead of the outer race which is free to rotate. I'd imagine horrible grinding when you press the clutch pedal followed by wearing through the clutch fingers if you drove it for long.
That's what happens when you go mud crawling and the transmission being submerged in that muddy water .. Look at the splines how rusty they are . I believe I'd coat the transmission input shaft with anti seize before bolting the thing back up ....
Super long group of extensions with a wobble extension on the end. Gotta reach it from behind the transfer case to get a close-to-straight shot at them.
on the back plate that holds the rear main seal. it will not lift up and off, on my 93 toy to remove it. it has 2 bolts that had nuts on them on bottom edge, i took off the nuts but it will not lift up, is their a lip on the back plate on the bottom edge on , the engine side?
Alex King If you hammer on the race that's being pressed onto or into something then it's not going to get damaged. Sure if you have a press, use the press. But there is no way this would cause any damage.
All good, but do NOT put any GREASE on seal. Else, the seal will SPIN, seal will not be seated properly, seal will eventually leak. Instead, clean the contact surfaces from grease with brake cleaner, and then use Dry Silicone spray. Dry Silicone is super-slippery at first. Then, after about 5 to 10 minutes it completely dries out and acts as a glue. Use only Dry Silicone spray on seal installations. Aside: of course, you can use any grease on inner surface of seal where it contacts the shaft.
Alex, is your last name Mayberry? The reason I ask is because at around 5:49 you say something like "use your head Mayberry" which is my last name. Maybury actually, but it certainly freaked me out, especially because we resemble each other. Just sayin, what are the odds, I'm watching a video of this gear head who reminds me of myself, and then he says my freaking name.
Well, I apologize for not speaking clearly, and my last name is not Mayberry or anything related. I actually said, "Use a 24mm socket, your brand may vary." I was referring to the size socket I used to tap in the pilot bearing. The size socket can vary though, a 24mm impact socket would probably be too large. That being said, if I remind you of yourself you must be a good looking guy.
Thanks for creating such a thorough video on changing out a clutch / your pleasant temperment makes the project interesting to watch as well as instructional / I have had the whole clutch assembly replaced in my 2000 4Runner twice in 6 months and now the master slave cylinder needs replacing AGAIN. So I searched for a tutorial to see what the heck might be going wrong and found your video. I hope this next trip to the mechanic works this time.
Man I have got to say, you are very informative on these videos and you do a fantastic job of demonstrating. I like it.
I used the bread method to remove the pilot bearing and it worked. Crazy.
Great video, helped my dad a lot when he replaced the clutch in my truck for me. Thanks :)
Did u help your pops?
I've had no issues with aftermarket seals so far. But I also like using OEM parts. Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside when putting it back together.
The clutch in my 88 4runner v6 is original. 264,400 odd miles and she is still working perfect. Im going to try to squeeze 300,000 out of the clutch before I order a new one. All I can say is the new on is coming from Toyota.
loving the vise grip slide hammer
i was so amazed at everything being cleaned and fresh for replacement then i saw the inside of the bell housing. vibration gonna shale that crud loose and set it right back into the clutch. but a great video none the less.
Little bit of dust isn't going to hurt anything. Also, if the engine is running nothing is getting into the clutch. See if you can stick your finger into a spinning fan.
At 8:06 I start to remove/replace the throwout bearing. Use whatever socket fits to pound the hub through the bearing, and use a slightly larger one to pound the new bearing's inner race over the hub.
Hi Alex, Your videos are great. However, how did you remove the threaded bolts/rods that went through the oil pan and attached the backplate to the oil pan?
Can you do a video on how to remove the clutch pedal bracket and replace it with a clutch bracket plate for a 93 t100?
great video by the way.
Thank you this helped.
When I installed my throw bearing I only had one of those clip dont know where the other one went to I just used one think it'll be alright?
Thanks for this video very helpful
I borrowed it from my grandfather. I don't have everything I need yet but my grandfather has been doing the same sort of thing for a long time. What I don't have I can usually borrow from him. I'm not sure how much a similar tool would cost today, or if it would work as good.
The things going through the oil pan towards the middle of the back plate are threaded rods and u can take off the nut with a wrench but the rods themselves can't be taken out with a wrench.
The way you left the old rear main seal in and put the new one in on top was pretty interesting. Did you have any leaks or problems with that later? I'm getting ready to replace mine which leaks pretty bad.
There is a shoulder in the crankshaft that will not allow the bearing to go in farther than it is supposed to. Drive it in until it stops.
Bueno el video , saludos desde chile
You bloody lifesaver =)
great job
Ahh, I see. Mine had two bolts, not studs with nuts. If there is enough thread on the stud you can use the double nut technique to remove the studs, there are also tools called stud removers that are made specifically for this purpose.
How far did you drive the pilot bearing in
Did you different socket to remove throwout bear?
I had no leaks for the next 8000 miles I owned the truck. This video was shot in December and I sold the truck in May.
hey nice video, I'm about to do this job on my pickup just wondering before removing the transmission should the shifters be on a certain gear?
It doesn't matter at all for the transmission. Just put it back together how it came apart and it will be fine. The transfer case you do need to be careful. The shifter can fit into two different notches in the rails when you put it back together. Make sure you put the shifter into the same notch it came out of. You can avoid this confusion by shifting the transfer case to 4H before disassembly since this effectively makes the two notches line up so you just put the shifter in and you'll be fine.
@enginerepairguy My dad is not a professional mechanic. He just likes to work on his own stuff and save money. I'm a mech at a motorcycle dealership but as you can see by my videos I like working on pretty much anything.
@Rangerscott69 I'm not sure why it gave out. The friction material must have just gotten brittle and fallen off. It was the original with 161xxx miles on it so it wasa time for it to go I suppose. And yep I forgot to mention that. Hopefully anyone doing this can figure that one out on their own.
@TheAlexManVideos You'd be surprised at how many people can't figure things out on their own. LOL
Once the weather gets nice I'm really need to change out my clutch and flywheel. The material is even with the grooves. No slipping but it's getting there. Damn clutch has lasted since '01 through street/offroad/mudding. Wish I knew what brand it is so I could get another. It's gone through engine swaps too.
Great stuff
Cool
You could probably get away with not getting it ground down but to do it properly it should be ground down.
How much does transmission weight
why did you sell it? What did you get for it?
question, you didnt need to bleed your transmission?? im asking because im watching alot of videos of how to do this replacement because i need to do this to my car and in many other videos they bleed their transmission fluid before taken it down... i didnt find the screw to bleed my transmission. its a 2000 kia sportage diesel version, (not sold in US) so im a little confused rght now
The transmission in a manual transmission car does not need to be bled. If fluid needs to be replaced you simply drain it and refill, just like the engine oil. The clutch hydraulics will need to be bled if the system was opened, just like your brakes. I cannot speak for your specific vehicle.
14ft lb is enough?
What was the cause of the exploded clutch?
Also you forgot to mention to clean off the pressure plate surface that touches the clutch plate.
Can anyone tell me what size bolts to use for installing a radiator on 1990 4Runner 3.0?
good job
Is it possible to put a throw out bearing in backwards on a 1991 Toyota 4x4 what would the results be
I forget what year it changed, but early types had the throwout bearing hub and throwout bearing as two separate pieces. The hub was re-used and the bearing was replaced. Later types were a once piece design. The later types will only go on one way. The early types, like what is in this video, would not work if installed backward. The non-rotating inner race of the throwout bearing would contact the pressure plate fingers instead of the outer race which is free to rotate. I'd imagine horrible grinding when you press the clutch pedal followed by wearing through the clutch fingers if you drove it for long.
awesome vid. What engine is this?
22RE
That's what happens when you go mud crawling and the transmission being submerged in that muddy water ..
Look at the splines how rusty they are . I believe I'd coat the transmission input shaft with anti seize before bolting the thing back up ....
I'm replacing clutch and transmission on a Mitsubishi mighty max transmission same he'll without the loud phone
How do I remove a wife and replace it
the top two bolts kicked my butt I have tried all that I know to do to no avail!!!
how did you get to those bolts?
Super long group of extensions with a wobble extension on the end. Gotta reach it from behind the transfer case to get a close-to-straight shot at them.
on the back plate that holds the rear main seal. it will not lift up and off, on my 93 toy to remove it. it has 2 bolts that had nuts on them on bottom edge, i took off the nuts but it will not lift up, is their a lip on the back plate on the bottom edge on , the engine side?
How did you go? Did you need to remove the oil pan? I'm at the same problem now
Same thing happened to me, have either of you figured it out?
Do you need to drain the engine oil before you remove the rear main seal?
No. The oil level is below the level of the rear main seal. You'll just get a few residual drips.
@@TheAlexManVideos Good to know. Thanks!
I sold it to buy a 1987 4Runner. I sold it for $2000. I should have asked way more.
Bit rough using a steel hammer on a new bearing, i would get reamed if i did that at work
Alex King If you hammer on the race that's being pressed onto or into something then it's not going to get damaged. Sure if you have a press, use the press. But there is no way this would cause any damage.
You sound like Jesse James bro! ...Get bent!
All good, but do NOT put any GREASE on seal. Else, the seal will SPIN, seal will not be seated properly, seal will eventually leak. Instead, clean the contact surfaces from grease with brake cleaner, and then use Dry Silicone spray. Dry Silicone is super-slippery at first. Then, after about 5 to 10 minutes it completely dries out and acts as a glue. Use only Dry Silicone spray on seal installations. Aside: of course, you can use any grease on inner surface of seal where it contacts the shaft.
i really don't feel like doing that i wouldn't either.
What are he aducated as then :-)
Does the flywheel needs to be machined or just cleaned?
I'm not sure why you asked. I used a wrench.
How do you know which transmission you have, w55, w56, or w58? Is there something printed on the transmission and where? Thank you.
Ha! Thanks for the clarification. I guess I'm growing vain, narcissistic, and deaf.
You need yourself a cordless ratchet!
Are your dad a mechanic ? :)
Alex, is your last name Mayberry? The reason I ask is because at around 5:49 you say something like "use your head Mayberry" which is my last name. Maybury actually, but it certainly freaked me out, especially because we resemble each other. Just sayin, what are the odds, I'm watching a video of this gear head who reminds me of myself, and then he says my freaking name.
Well, I apologize for not speaking clearly, and my last name is not Mayberry or anything related. I actually said, "Use a 24mm socket, your brand may vary." I was referring to the size socket I used to tap in the pilot bearing. The size socket can vary though, a 24mm impact socket would probably be too large. That being said, if I remind you of yourself you must be a good looking guy.
3³!!!#
3rzfe
do not use this video for apprentice education this job is not a trade
Cool