I can confirm this slight overvoltage positive effect, I have been running my BBSHD for around 4 years with a DIY 15S Setup - 61.3V Total (charged/balanced to 4.1V per cell) "No BMS" it works great. Extra range, extra power, charging to around 90% so a much longer cell cycle life. Obviously warranty is out the door, but if you know what your doing, eg if mosfets are within Voltage limits etc then no big deal. Cheers Andy 👍👌😊🍻
I now, I'm a bit late but it could be interesting. If its a Kunteng/KT controller you can fool the system by adding a 4,1v zener diode (1,3w) to the black wire going from display back to the controller. This way the display and the voltage regulator inside the controller only see 58,8 - 4,1v = 54,7v with a fully charged 14s battery but the mosfets still get the full battery voltage. For 15s add a 3,6 and a 4,1v zener diode in series to reduce the voltage from 63 to 55,3v. The problem with kunteng controllers is the voltage regulator which can only handle ~55v. If the voltage is higher the resistor or the regulator itself gets damaged but with such zener diodes the system 'thinks' it only has a 13S battery. I'm usually use the short 5" display extension cords, open the cable around 3", cut the black wire and solder the zener diode in place, add heat skrink tubing and that's it. You could even use 20S batteries on KT controllers if you replace the mosfets and capacitors against 100v ones. I'm using a 14s6p battery made of Samsung 25r cells and a modded KT-controller (22A, SVP version). It currently runs @40A continous with 80v Texas Instruments mosfets 2,0mΩ, 150A and 80v caps with 1000μF. I also replaced the phase wires and a few other things but the 1st thing I did was the zener diode mod to be able to run 14s without damage.
Most 36 to 48 volt motor controller have an 60 volt capacitor so up volting or overvolting to 52 volt is never going to be a problem. The new weight you add for more power and range comes at a cost in handling. Look for motor controllers conversion systems with an On / Off road limiter option (single blue or pink wire coming out of the motor controller then back in without connecting to outside source) you cut it or disconnect it plus you can do a lot thru your LCD controller menu to get that extra MPH. Re set the wheel size larger turn off restrictor speeds most have menu guides on line. If you are going to build an E-bike from the ground up (much more fun) don't be impulsive, think about how you want to really use your electric bike the most. I have gone full circle and ended up with my Apex E-bike design that suits me best for use, handling, power and range, The result is an 26 inch rigid frame mountain bike suspension front forks with BMX headset and handlebars cruiser tires and seat. Powered by a Hailong triangle 48 volt 20ah 1600 watt battery converted with an 48 volt 1500 watt VoilaMart direct drive system. Got disk brakes and regen the PAS on this power/controller marriage is perfect, some level 1 PAS setting are not even there when you pedal I can add an extra 5 mph to just pedaling and stretch my range further than I can stand riding. Not that pedaling is bad but the throttle is great.
The individual cells in the battery can be replaced. You test them in groups and when you find a group that doesn't register. You replace like 4 or 5 of them, because one of them being bad will weaken the others. One bad cell can prevent the entire battery from working. The individual cells are like 18650 3.7v 20A or whatever your battery amperage is. Instead of replacing the entire battery. It's a lot less costly to just replace the cells. $50 to $60 in cost for those cells and solder strips. You can be up and running.
years ago 2012? i bought a 24v 250w and a 36v 500w kit off ebay, found out it was the same kit! just the increase in voltage gave you more power! it also gave you more speed.... I opened the kits which confirmed this every component the same, including 63v capacitors and 75v mosfets... you know what happened next... 48v... then i got my 4 4s packs and tried 66v... no smoke, but great hill climbing and 32mph.... lasted 2 years before it smoked. repaired and still have that controller/wheel for bench testing
I have a 48v 1500 watt overvolted to 72v that will do upper 40s mph in ideal conditions But will do between 42-44mph (67-72 kmh) regardless of wind direction Had running for nearly a year and 1,000+ miles and still going strong Did right at 30 mph before overvolting
Can someone enlighten me . Some ytubers say change the display, some say the controller, some to add a chip in the motor! Also is it possible to only increase the speed of the throttle? Thanks.
I've had some issues with AGM batteries being too low to charge. I ended up plugging in the charger with a spare battery to get the volts up enough to trick the charger to kick on.
I used to run my electric BMX hub motor on 72V it was ridiculous so much fun but it was hard work on the motor and controller, if the hub motor is geared the rotor is spinning much faster than the control circuit can cope with and 2 things happen, the windings heat, you can even start to melt the often poor solder connections between the motor phase leads and the windings, if the motor has a one way clutch bearing that will normally burn out quite quickly and unless the controller is decent the high speed rotor will often cause false triggering of MOSFETs and you can start blowing them as they stay hard switched on, I've been there done that. For most geared hub motors rated at 40V I would go no more than 50V that's pretty safe, you only need to push the volts up a little and you are instantly in to zero reliability, for direct drive hub motors with no gears you can be more naughty and up the volts a fair bit. Fun video, all my fast rides were done with model lipo, no BMS, just a fuse, you can also adjust motor timing and use field weakening to make motors run faster with the same battery voltage, you don't get much more power though you just get higher rpm, I used to change the timing, your also running the motor way inefficient as well if you do that, I did that once in the middle of an ebike race with Steve head from technical bikes back in 2004!! I don't really do much with the bikes these days, I did 20 years of playing with ebikes and realised I need to play with other things as the clock is ticking, loudly. Have fun
You a very smart man brother might just do that to my Freego E bike. I am a expert on RC cars and have plenty of lipos around for my arrma felony & Notorious truck car and traxxas cars
my speed kmph is not working, i have a hub motor, and paddel pad with 12 magnets. i got the nc81f display, i dont understand wy it is not working at all :(
I’ve got a Ouxi V8 2 and the display is locked to 48v but I’ve got a 52v battery I want to use with it, will it actually improve anything or because the parameter is set to 48v it won’t?
Does anyone know about this specific hud controller display or what you call it? If there is a way to disable the limiter through the display options?? If not, how can you disable the limiter another way? Firmware? unplug something? near the controller.
Because this has happened to me with soooooooo many phones especially tablets and if you leave them on charge from a bricked state majority of times in my experience they come back to working order its mad but it works.
Your faulty batt has crowbar cut out ! ( a crowbar will remain till reset ) think of it as a relay but using electronics …. Disconnect the Bms leave for a while reconnect … they should have used a fuse like my first batt …
@@kingofball8967 I have the 48v 15 amh battery with 1000w rear hub. I'm 6ft and 97kg I get around 28 to 30 mph. I've fitted a different adjustable rear shock as mine bottoms out on bumps
Don't throw it!! Just a theory but maybe the battery was left in the warehouse for months and it was totally dead maybe just maybe if you leave it on charge for a good long while it will start to register somekind of current on the reading and it will have to build up to maximum capacity over perhaps twice aslong as it would usually take to full charge just an idea cause it worth a try Channels the absolute Bolloxxs by the way Big love!!!!
@@andykirby it could be too dead to charge or register with the bms. You can take them apart and trickle charge the pack woth a hobby charger get the voltage high enough for your normal charger to register and finish the job. Sometimes they're not salvageable.
This but narrower or more stickier tyres. I don't understand why most "legal" ebikes around have these big balloon snow tyres in the UK, in Ireland and other countries where snow is not common. Them ballon tyres are just aggressive for style, steals every ounce of energy from coasting, the battery and me pedalling.
I like fat tyres because they offer extra suspension on our rough roads, and flexibility to run multi terrain. The rolling resistance isn't so bad cos it's an ebike...
Hello Andrew just to help you and others they is a. complete ban on throttle's on ebikes and scooters we think the police may start taken ebikes scooter from eBay and Amazon UK sellers has well has stores across the UK please be very careful it a government law too.
I have a battery that does exactly the same. Won't charge, shows green on the charger, but it isn't fully charged...bad cells somewhere In guessing...🤔😳😳🇬🇧
I can confirm this slight overvoltage positive effect, I have been running my BBSHD for around 4 years with a DIY 15S Setup - 61.3V Total (charged/balanced to 4.1V per cell) "No BMS" it works great.
Extra range, extra power, charging to around 90% so a much longer cell cycle life. Obviously warranty is out the door, but if you know what your doing, eg if mosfets are within Voltage limits etc then no big deal. Cheers Andy 👍👌😊🍻
On original Controller?
@@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes Yes
@@oze-bikes4life663cool. thanks
No bms ?
check the battery for a blown fuse ?
I now, I'm a bit late but it could be interesting. If its a Kunteng/KT controller you can fool the system by adding a 4,1v zener diode (1,3w) to the black wire going from display back to the controller. This way the display and the voltage regulator inside the controller only see 58,8 - 4,1v = 54,7v with a fully charged 14s battery but the mosfets still get the full battery voltage. For 15s add a 3,6 and a 4,1v zener diode in series to reduce the voltage from 63 to 55,3v. The problem with kunteng controllers is the voltage regulator which can only handle ~55v. If the voltage is higher the resistor or the regulator itself gets damaged but with such zener diodes the system 'thinks' it only has a 13S battery. I'm usually use the short 5" display extension cords, open the cable around 3", cut the black wire and solder the zener diode in place, add heat skrink tubing and that's it. You could even use 20S batteries on KT controllers if you replace the mosfets and capacitors against 100v ones. I'm using a 14s6p battery made of Samsung 25r cells and a modded KT-controller (22A, SVP version). It currently runs @40A continous with 80v Texas Instruments mosfets 2,0mΩ, 150A and 80v caps with 1000μF. I also replaced the phase wires and a few other things but the 1st thing I did was the zener diode mod to be able to run 14s without damage.
Most 36 to 48 volt motor controller have an 60 volt capacitor so up volting or overvolting to 52 volt is never going to be a problem. The new weight you add for more power and range comes at a cost in handling. Look for motor controllers conversion systems with an On / Off road limiter option (single blue or pink wire coming out of the motor controller then back in without connecting to outside source) you cut it or disconnect it plus you can do a lot thru your LCD controller menu to get that extra MPH. Re set the wheel size larger turn off restrictor speeds most have menu guides on line. If you are going to build an E-bike from the ground up (much more fun) don't be impulsive, think about how you want to really use your electric bike the most. I have gone full circle and ended up with my Apex E-bike design that suits me best for use, handling, power and range, The result is an 26 inch rigid frame mountain bike suspension front forks with BMX headset and handlebars cruiser tires and seat. Powered by a Hailong triangle 48 volt 20ah 1600 watt battery converted with an 48 volt 1500 watt VoilaMart direct drive system. Got disk brakes and regen the PAS on this power/controller marriage is perfect, some level 1 PAS setting are not even there when you pedal I can add an extra 5 mph to just pedaling and stretch my range further than I can stand riding. Not that pedaling is bad but the throttle is great.
The individual cells in the battery can be replaced. You test them in groups and when you find a group that doesn't register. You replace like 4 or 5 of them, because one of them being bad will weaken the others. One bad cell can prevent the entire battery from working. The individual cells are like 18650 3.7v 20A or whatever your battery amperage is. Instead of replacing the entire battery. It's a lot less costly to just replace the cells. $50 to $60 in cost for those cells and solder strips. You can be up and running.
I think the issue was that the whole thing has been glued together such that it cannot be opened short of cutting the case off piece by piece.
years ago 2012? i bought a 24v 250w and a 36v 500w kit off ebay, found out it was the same kit! just the increase in voltage gave you more power! it also gave you more speed.... I opened the kits which confirmed this every component the same, including 63v capacitors and 75v mosfets... you know what happened next... 48v... then i got my 4 4s packs and tried 66v... no smoke, but great hill climbing and 32mph.... lasted 2 years before it smoked. repaired and still have that controller/wheel for bench testing
You should have told us how fast you went and how much faster it made the bike go
he's legally not allowed to go over 20mph.
He's in the uk or something. they don't have the freedom like we do in the states.
Depends on what state your in, there are still limits in the US.
@@LoLErMan13 It's ok, this is all just an Unreal engine 2 demo. 🤫
@LoLErMan13 freedom to shoot any school you like! Usa! Usa!
Hmm 🤔 wondering if my 48v controller will handle an upgrade to a 60v battery? Thanks for the vid, interesting stuff.
I have a 48v 1500 watt overvolted to 72v that will do upper 40s mph in ideal conditions
But will do between 42-44mph (67-72 kmh) regardless of wind direction
Had running for nearly a year and 1,000+ miles and still going strong
Did right at 30 mph before overvolting
On hub motor geared or Direct Drive?
@@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes dual direct
Some stuff on my channel about it
@@2dthoughtsok thanks
i have similar setup, how do i overvolt it
Can someone enlighten me . Some ytubers say change the display, some say the controller, some to add a chip in the motor! Also is it possible to only increase the speed of the throttle? Thanks.
What does it mean when your throttle doesn't work and the motor hub doesn't spin ?
what getting the electronics out of those Electric Motorbikes that are raced in the IOM TT and building a EV from them.
Just an idea with the dead battery is just leave it plugged in for a few days as it might spring to life
I've had some issues with AGM batteries being too low to charge. I ended up plugging in the charger with a spare battery to get the volts up enough to trick the charger to kick on.
What lipo would you use for a 2000w motor?
Build your own from 18650s.... it's not as hard as it seems. Even including the purchase of a spot welder, it will save money.
14s liion=58.8...go vesc if you upgrade the controller
What does that mean about overvolted like what do you do to overvolted I have a trifly 1500 with a 48 v battery
sneaking off to Greggs Andy? Busted 🤣
had the same issue with a battery tend to be when some cells are dead or uneven from the rest
Many Thanks for Your Video 💪💪💪🔝⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
I had same problem, and shop won't help me.dead battery on a new ebike, so I getting a batt of Ali and putting it in.
That hill climb was impressive 😮
I used to run my electric BMX hub motor on 72V it was ridiculous so much fun but it was hard work on the motor and controller, if the hub motor is geared the rotor is spinning much faster than the control circuit can cope with and 2 things happen, the windings heat, you can even start to melt the often poor solder connections between the motor phase leads and the windings, if the motor has a one way clutch bearing that will normally burn out quite quickly and unless the controller is decent the high speed rotor will often cause false triggering of MOSFETs and you can start blowing them as they stay hard switched on, I've been there done that.
For most geared hub motors rated at 40V I would go no more than 50V that's pretty safe, you only need to push the volts up a little and you are instantly in to zero reliability, for direct drive hub motors with no gears you can be more naughty and up the volts a fair bit.
Fun video, all my fast rides were done with model lipo, no BMS, just a fuse, you can also adjust motor timing and use field weakening to make motors run faster with the same battery voltage, you don't get much more power though you just get higher rpm, I used to change the timing, your also running the motor way inefficient as well if you do that, I did that once in the middle of an ebike race with Steve head from technical bikes back in 2004!! I don't really do much with the bikes these days, I did 20 years of playing with ebikes and realised I need to play with other things as the clock is ticking, loudly.
Have fun
You a very smart man brother might just do that to my Freego E bike. I am a expert on RC cars and have plenty of lipos around for my arrma felony & Notorious truck car and traxxas cars
do they wheelie?
my speed kmph is not working, i have a hub motor, and paddel pad with 12 magnets. i got the nc81f display, i dont understand wy it is not working at all :(
I’ve got a Ouxi V8 2 and the display is locked to 48v but I’ve got a 52v battery I want to use with it, will it actually improve anything or because the parameter is set to 48v it won’t?
Yes about 4mph a new 30a controller get you in the 40s stop buy junk build good stuff and go as fast as you want😅
Lazy
Does anyone know about this specific hud controller display or what you call it? If there is a way to disable the limiter through the display options?? If not, how can you disable the limiter another way? Firmware? unplug something? near the controller.
What is the name of the bike?
Because this has happened to me with soooooooo many phones especially tablets and if you leave them on charge from a bricked state majority of times in my experience they come back to working order its mad but it works.
Your faulty batt has crowbar cut out ! ( a crowbar will remain till reset ) think of it as a relay but using electronics …. Disconnect the Bms leave for a while reconnect … they should have used a fuse like my first batt …
Yeah is what I thought. They shouldn't have made the battery so damn difficult to take apart.🙄
I have 500w motor and 48v20ah battery it goes fast, only lasted around 4 miles first ride.. any suggestions? More cells/bigger size battery?
Yh
Step 1.
Have money 😂
Arent lipos dangerous ?.
Very
Yeah but life without a little danger is a boring existence.......
My helicopter hardly ever explodes!
Powered by lipo……
Did you go to the settings and changed rd he voltage from 48 to 60
Yes 👍🏻
Original battery probably died due to bms fault.
Don’t try it when it’s hot, controller will overhead (E-10)
Use Shinko 241 3 x 16 tires and tubes!
Disconnect foot pedal assist
U my hero kid
Hi. I have a c91 e bike and it only does 15mph. Do u know how to make it go faster ? It’s a 1000w
You need to unlock it .. full throttle while turning the power on display
@@worthyo thank you and what will be the top speed with 1000w motor ?
@@kingofball8967 I have the 48v 15 amh battery with 1000w rear hub. I'm 6ft and 97kg I get around 28 to 30 mph. I've fitted a different adjustable rear shock as mine bottoms out on bumps
Type into TH-cam " unlock c91" video shows how to do it. Brilliant after unpicking
Does anyone know how to make the amyet s8 go faster ? I tried messing with the settings but didn’t want to do to much and mess anything up
Caps are 63v innit? Controller probably has a voltage detect and cuts off to protect from over volting
Yeah thats what I thought...
Nice tunes at the end, bro
Thanks! They are released on on Spotify and iTunes etc. Also there's a new album with tunes from the vids over on my website! www.cloudsto.com/music
use a vesc controller the flipsky 75100 works perfect ;)
Me too even the 65/100 is good for the geared G60 Hub
I didn't watch the video but its all about voltage and KV ratings how the stator is wired
I really like the look of that bike, glad i didn't buy i though 😅
if nobody told it before, the rattle coming out of rear motor might be a loose magnet it’s not hard to fix
Rattles coming from the front, it's the headlight.
That battery just needed to be woken up
Good watch Andy
what batteries are they ?
LiPo batteries for an RC car. 3 x 5S packs linked in series for a total of 15S.
@@andykirby Thanks Andy
Do more videos please 👌👍🤝🙏🙏
Enjoyed your vlog
Let us know if u fix it
For Science 😂🔥🔥🔥🔥
Don't throw it!! Just a theory but maybe the battery was left in the warehouse for months and it was totally dead maybe just maybe if you leave it on charge for a good long while it will start to register somekind of current on the reading and it will have to build up to maximum capacity over perhaps twice aslong as it would usually take to full charge just an idea cause it worth a try Channels the absolute Bolloxxs by the way Big love!!!!
Yeah I'd never chuck it. I'll take it apart properly soon and put a new BMS in there. I'm 99% certain the cells are absolutely fine.
@@andykirby it could be too dead to charge or register with the bms. You can take them apart and trickle charge the pack woth a hobby charger get the voltage high enough for your normal charger to register and finish the job. Sometimes they're not salvageable.
The bms maybe 🤔
Yeah defo
Be Safe A lot of Battery Fires Lately 🙏🔥
😂😂 your a savage
This but narrower or more stickier tyres.
I don't understand why most "legal" ebikes around have these big balloon snow tyres in the UK, in Ireland and other countries where snow is not common.
Them ballon tyres are just aggressive for style, steals every ounce of energy from coasting, the battery and me pedalling.
But also provide a softer ride and can be nice for a hard tail bike.
I like fat tyres because they offer extra suspension on our rough roads, and flexibility to run multi terrain. The rolling resistance isn't so bad cos it's an ebike...
Obesity tyres.....
Any e-bike faster? How about an Aventon?
Anything , but It should be derestricted first , so it can go faster than 25 km/h
Hello Andrew just to help you and others they is a. complete ban on throttle's on ebikes and scooters we think the police may start taken ebikes scooter from eBay and Amazon UK sellers has well has stores across the UK please be very careful it a government law too.
⚡👀👀⚡
phaserunner + 72v battery = Many Smiles per km
Complain about the FreeGo battery and have it replaced.
You didn't cover the faster aspect.
That seat/saddle looks so uncomfortable
It's OK actually.
Is that smoke I smell....?
Lame how the government in Europe is so lame compared to the USA. Limits kill progress.
deffo bms fault, i had the same happen
The problem is that over 48V its a motorbike and you need a liscense.
Those geared hub motors are 💩
If you want small thrills ,put a bigger battery. Hub motors will burn in minutes 😉 guaranteed.
This video should be reported as a breach of the trades description act. :)
Trump supporter? There are worse things.
How to make a stupidly overpriced bike more expensive
Looks like a pile of junk that wouldn't last.
I have a battery that does exactly the same. Won't charge, shows green on the charger, but it isn't fully charged...bad cells somewhere In guessing...🤔😳😳🇬🇧
Potere altro. Durata ZERO. fake... utente fake