Its crazy that standards are not there for different charging connectors for different voltages and much much clearer labeling on battery and charger saying what they are . Its crazy easy in a household of 5 ebikes to mix them up . Anyway had 5 of these batteries ., the oldest nearly 5 years old but i am gentle with them and they have proved to be great value for me with over 30000 miles collectively on them .. There is a recall now as linked to fires in UK . I am not disposing of mine but i will charge and store in a fire safe place .
No mention of how the cells had a high spread of voltages. They are usually very close together for a good battery, even if it has been draining slowly.
What is your opinion on the build quality of these batteries? I have one and so do 2 of my friends now but there's been a government recall on them here in the UK. I'm reluctant to give up my battery because it has worked flawlessly. Charges to 54.7v every time and provides me plenty of power for a reasonable amount of time on my ebike which is meant to be 2kw (I doubt it is) I have the 20ah version 48v Also is this battery capable of charging via the power output plug? I had some issues when running regen. Blew the same MOSFET twice until I bypassed the PCB on the live leg of the fet with some enamalled wire.
These batteries have an expiration date, you buy a UPP battery because they're half the price knowing they are going to last half the time, the only question is what do you do with it when its dead.
@@MaNNeRz91 I have two of them, the one with 1600 miles is perfect, my other one completely died around 2800 miles, it was also perfect till about 2500 miles and then degraded quickly.
@@bassw1758 I'll keep you updated if it fails on me any time soon. For the price I really can't complain too much. Sits in the frame nicely and charges at 1v an hour so I can pretty precisely time my charging 😂 as sad as that is.. I managed a 40 mile ride on it a while ago. Averaging at 17mph. And the bike does 40mph on full beans.
If your 36v batteries have a 20A BMS for example then you can remove them and set your current limit (p14 on the sw900 display) to 40A and put a fuse in between the positive and the controller. Only charge with the correct voltage charger and monitor during charging, once it reaches 1 or 2 volts away from full take it off. Monitor heat of pack when charging/discharging to make sure you’re not overcharging or overdischadging. Also don’t discharge the pack below 62 volts
The breaks are terrible but works like moped breaks, if it does not work at all, the fluid has leaked, if it works but poorelly you might need brake pads. They are very cheap but different front and back: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDhmfF9
Why should the charger be damage because of bugs? There are many devices that have ventilation holes and i don't get any bugs in those devices that breaks it.
It's more important if you charge in non temperature controlled room like a shed, garage etc. Bugs are always drawn to heat when its cold outside and a nice warm charger are perfect for spiders and other bugs to build nests in. If you only charge indoors when the tempature is around 20C then it is usually not a problem. We have dismateled many chargers and inverters to find out what was wrong and many times it's bugs.
Trying not to throw shade but the title says "troubleshooting" the only thing you did was take it apart. I have the same pack and have taken it apart only to find nothing glaringly obvious
We have been looking for good 60V case batteries for years how ever all samples we have bought turned out to be bad so it better to DIY or take it to a repair shop. Especially if you need 35a, most packs we have seen could not handle even 15A without capacity loos.
@@TheBatteryDoctor I'm willing to pay or just build my own now at this point.. roughly how big of capacity can fit in those handle case boxes? Is 60v 40ah 35amp BMS possible??
My advice is first research cells. Decide what cell will be best for your application. You don’t need high discharge I would prioritise high capacity in your case so look for 5000mah cells. Next look at cell holders and check if the dimensions will fit in your old battery case with the cell layout required, for 60v 40aH you are looking at 16s8p which is 128 cells. Can you fit 128 cells in your old case? If not reduce the parallel rows until it will fit and calculate the capacity to make sure you’re happy. Next you’ll need to find a BMS that for 16s and however many parallel groups you chose, aswell as the correct discharge rating. If you chose 5000mah 10A cell for example and you end up with 5 parallel groups you can discharge up to 50A. For safety apply a multiplier of 0.75x. I wouldn’t recommend drawing more than 35A from this example pack
What a strange comment, bugs laying eggs in electrical equipment, in any case you shouldn't be repairing battery packs at home with the danger of fire.
just have a clay flowerpot with lid next to your repair station, the lid must have holes for the fumes to exit, and having some thick sand just in case, this thing saved me 3 times
Its crazy that standards are not there for different charging connectors for different voltages and much much clearer labeling on battery and charger saying what they are . Its crazy easy in a household of 5 ebikes to mix them up . Anyway had 5 of these batteries ., the oldest nearly 5 years old but i am gentle with them and they have proved to be great value for me with over 30000 miles collectively on them .. There is a recall now as linked to fires in UK . I am not disposing of mine but i will charge and store in a fire safe place .
No mention of how the cells had a high spread of voltages. They are usually very close together for a good battery, even if it has been draining slowly.
i like your aproach, are you available for consultation
What is your opinion on the build quality of these batteries?
I have one and so do 2 of my friends now but there's been a government recall on them here in the UK.
I'm reluctant to give up my battery because it has worked flawlessly. Charges to 54.7v every time and provides me plenty of power for a reasonable amount of time on my ebike which is meant to be 2kw (I doubt it is)
I have the 20ah version 48v
Also is this battery capable of charging via the power output plug? I had some issues when running regen. Blew the same MOSFET twice until I bypassed the PCB on the live leg of the fet with some enamalled wire.
These batteries have an expiration date, you buy a UPP battery because they're half the price knowing they are going to last half the time, the only question is what do you do with it when its dead.
Done over 700 miles on mine so far and it hasn't shown any sign of declining yet 🤞🏻
@@MaNNeRz91 I have two of them, the one with 1600 miles is perfect, my other one completely died around 2800 miles, it was also perfect till about 2500 miles and then degraded quickly.
@@bassw1758 I mean that's less than 50pence a mile isn't it? I can live with those numbers 😂
@@MaNNeRz91 yes but I've heard of better batteries getting well over 5,000 MILES
@@bassw1758 I'll keep you updated if it fails on me any time soon. For the price I really can't complain too much. Sits in the frame nicely and charges at 1v an hour so I can pretty precisely time my charging 😂 as sad as that is..
I managed a 40 mile ride on it a while ago. Averaging at 17mph. And the bike does 40mph on full beans.
I have the same battery do u know what wire I need for the switch please
Could two 36 v ebike batteries be connected in series for 72 v ? Would something need to be done with the two BMS ?
You would need a bms with chips that are rated for 84v, since the second bms in series would be seeing that much voltage
If your 36v batteries have a 20A BMS for example then you can remove them and set your current limit (p14 on the sw900 display) to 40A and put a fuse in between the positive and the controller. Only charge with the correct voltage charger and monitor during charging, once it reaches 1 or 2 volts away from full take it off. Monitor heat of pack when charging/discharging to make sure you’re not overcharging or overdischadging. Also don’t discharge the pack below 62 volts
Do you know how to fix if the back brake doesnt work on the fatscooter? It has DOT4, so its not that. I have looked but cannot find the problem.
The breaks are terrible but works like moped breaks, if it does not work at all, the fluid has leaked, if it works but poorelly you might need brake pads. They are very cheap but different front and back: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDhmfF9
Why should the charger be damage because of bugs? There are many devices that have ventilation holes and i don't get any bugs in those devices that breaks it.
It's more important if you charge in non temperature controlled room like a shed, garage etc. Bugs are always drawn to heat when its cold outside and a nice warm charger are perfect for spiders and other bugs to build nests in. If you only charge indoors when the tempature is around 20C then it is usually not a problem. We have dismateled many chargers and inverters to find out what was wrong and many times it's bugs.
Trying not to throw shade but the title says "troubleshooting" the only thing you did was take it apart. I have the same pack and have taken it apart only to find nothing glaringly obvious
Do you know where I can get a good citycoco battery, the one that goes under the seat with the handle.. looking for a 60v 30ah 35a discharge BMS..
We have been looking for good 60V case batteries for years how ever all samples we have bought turned out to be bad so it better to DIY or take it to a repair shop. Especially if you need 35a, most packs we have seen could not handle even 15A without capacity loos.
@@TheBatteryDoctor I'm willing to pay or just build my own now at this point.. roughly how big of capacity can fit in those handle case boxes? Is 60v 40ah 35amp BMS possible??
My advice is first research cells. Decide what cell will be best for your application. You don’t need high discharge I would prioritise high capacity in your case so look for 5000mah cells. Next look at cell holders and check if the dimensions will fit in your old battery case with the cell layout required, for 60v 40aH you are looking at 16s8p which is 128 cells. Can you fit 128 cells in your old case? If not reduce the parallel rows until it will fit and calculate the capacity to make sure you’re happy. Next you’ll need to find a BMS that for 16s and however many parallel groups you chose, aswell as the correct discharge rating. If you chose 5000mah 10A cell for example and you end up with 5 parallel groups you can discharge up to 50A. For safety apply a multiplier of 0.75x. I wouldn’t recommend drawing more than 35A from this example pack
I wouldn't buy those Batteries. Louise Rossmans caught fire.
Primer like😊
What a strange comment, bugs laying eggs in electrical equipment, in any case you shouldn't be repairing battery packs at home with the danger of fire.
just have a clay flowerpot with lid next to your repair station, the lid must have holes for the fumes to exit, and having some thick sand just in case, this thing saved me 3 times
Not worthy.
Garbage shady company, don't buy!