Add a knob to the hinge pins. This should allow you to just twist and pull the pins out , or push the pins in. This is my favorite channel. You are a gifted carpenter and a true gentleman.
A thought on using hinges for the wing attachment- if you have access to a welder you could weld a ring or T-handle on the hinge pin so it could be grabbed and removed without tools.
OH man I just built a copy of the old version. nah... actually been planning on building a set of wings. But right now I am so damn busy. Been puttin in about 73 hrs a week. The one measurement you didn't give us was the depth front to back of the wings. I have been debating between 14 and 16 inches for myself. Thank you again Spencer for all the great content you share with all of us. I have been a carpenter for over 35 years and am always looking to learn or pick up tips and or tricks to speed things up or make the job easier. THANKS
My last set was 15" wide total. This new set I'm adding 2" for 17" wide total. Not sure what I'll like better. But I think I'd like a little more width for stacking cut pieces.
@@InsiderCarpentry I am going to start builing my wings possibly tomorrow. I have had everything in the shop for the last couple weeks, just been working on making time. I trimmed off of a Dewalt 12" slider for years, but recently switched to a 10" Makita slider with the bevel controls up front. It can still cut 5.25 base vertical which is nice. It was a challenge to figure out the mounts for the Makita, as the sides are not flat like the Dewalt. But have the brackets made now, and I just need to make the wings themselves. Thanks.for all your time in making these videos. Aproximately how long and wide is your stop? And how.far.in from the t track is the first dado with the magnetic tape?
@@InsiderCarpentry Yea I was thinking of doing them around 16 inches. Because I do the same thing (batch cut) with the stand I have now and sometimes it gets pretty tight on space. thank you again for the time you take to do this content and to help the trade in general.
I built a similar set up last year for processing 16 foot joist during floor builds. My experience has been that the average joists are 2x10. This year I will be cutting my wings down to 6 to 8 inches. Reason being that I find the 2x10x16 lumber to be heavy and I need a little room to be able to grab the work piece and move it on the table. It will also save a few pounds and make storage a little easier as well.
Your videos are awesome. Thank you for sacrificing your valuable time to educate us, your subscribers and fellow carpenters. As for potentially wider wings to help hold materials, perhaps making hooks of some sort on the legs of the miter stand to hold crown and baseboard 🤔 Currently, I use very basic 8’ wings that I set up with material supports. I don’t do high volume work but I still want to build a set of more efficient wings. Looking forward to the 2.0 build video!
Insider Carpentry- consider mounts using one side of the hinge plus pin on the saw base, then cut off lower half of the barrels on the wingside of hinge for a drop in fit. Then add a lock down which can be simple, maybe the same clamp style you have now. That way there's no fiddling w/poping out hinge pins which equates to hammering on Ur machinery
G’Day Mate Love your work just subbed. I have a suggestion about the mounting of the wings it may have been suggested already . You could use the same dewalt clamps that attach to the mitre saw which clamp to the Dewalt bench. I seen something similar with a crown mould jig.
Instead of the hinge why not use dominos? You could mount a wood block onto the side of the saw 3/4” below the bed. then have the mating side of the wing (3/4” material) sit on top of that block. The dominos would index and hold it in place and it would simply just knock apart. I can see it in my head but idk if I’m explaining it well.
Very impressive. Lots of thought and analysis, well explained. Also like the look and functionality. One suggestion - attach those hinge pins to the saw or the wings with a small chain. Best wishes and Merry Christmas!
Fantastic! I look forward to seeing your updates to the saw wings. I was about to start on making a copy of what you use as my next generation wings (there is always something else to do). I have been thinking about the saw to fence attachments for a long while. Since i now have the Dewalt miter stand, I have been thinking of using a second set of mounting brackets (DW7231) with shims to get the height exactly right. Thoughts? I thought of using a pair of door hinges a couple of years ago, but never executed on that. I was going to try filing down the pin a bit and using a neodymium magnet at the far end and weld a washer or nut as a pull handle at the head.
Hurry up and build them !!! Just kidding. I was about to build your old design. My plan is to build them next week over vacation. I have a few changes. No material supports . I have the larger dewalt stand and I’m going to use the outriggers that it comes with to hold the wings . I don’t use the mounts for the saw to stand. I have my saw attached to a piece of 3/4 plywood( permanently ) and I attach that to the stand using brass inserts ( mounted into the stand) then I attach my saw to the stand. My plan is to add a block on either side of the saw and use the same inserts to attach the wings. Thanks for your content. It really helps me step my game up.
Just a follow up to getbergets comment. Richard at finish carpentry uses the dewalt miter saw attachments (dw73 I believe) to attach crown stop to stand. I'm wondering if that might be worth thinking about as an attachment for the wings. Not sure if the short stand would allow enough room, may need the larger dewalt stand but then that may or may not make your system possible. But certainly worth considering.
I enjoy your cleverness and dedication to everything you do. I've been doing finish work for about 30 years. I was solo for a long time. One thing I discovered is that employees will be much harder on all your nice tools and equipment than you are. Just be prepared. It's heartbreaking and frustrating. You have to develop the mentality of a landlord or it will drive you nuts.
@@InsiderCarpentry No one to sue you either for chopping their hands off! I work solo on renovations for same reason... it takes me longer to explain what needs doing to an employee then to do it yourself!
I just had an idea for attaching the wings to the saw. Screw a peice of aluminum grant clip to the saw,, It's basically a metal french cleat, and a peice on the wing, then drill a hole through both and use a push button ball detent t handle to go through both peices. I hope that makes sense, im not good at explaining things.
I hope the 1st Kapex was covered under warranty, if not you were very kind to purchase a 2nd unit, I had a new Makita that failed numerous times, sold it and went Bosch, if the Bosch ever needs updating I won't ever buy another Makita the Chinese made versions are rubbish
How did you go through 3 Kapex? Those things are expensive and from what others say they are the best. I have no experience with them myself, too expensive for my blood.
2. They don't hold up with a lot of repetitive cutting and low power situations which is pretty much the daily norm trimming new homes. Allegedly they have fixed the motor issues with their latest model. Regardless, I prefer a 12" blade.
love your vids. long time carpenter here myself. for your hinge pin deal Id suggest a rod same dimension as current pins but longer with a D ring on end to pull out.
Hey Spencer First of all, your videos are awesome and please keep them coming. You’re a wealth of knowledge and I appreciate your in depth instructions. I haven’t seen anything about this on your videos but I heard you mention that weight is an issue. Would drilling holes in the wings and also the wing legs help that issue? Or even cutting out an area in the middle on the wing supports, similar to the Ron Paulk sawhorses used for his work bench. Thanks again for all you do. Randy Blair
Sweet setup! I always thought that using a pair of butt hinges would be a great method for the wing attachment. Securing 1 leaf to the base of the saw and the mating leaf to the wing itself. Insert pin to assemble and remove it to break it down..
I like the crown molding stop but it only holds the crown near the saw , I make mine with taller back stops on the wing and stop blocks a few feet apart so you can drop a 16" crown on eather side of the saw, need a lumber rack to hall mine around.
You have great tips for our trade, Thanks for the videos! One thing to consider on your new legs is that aluminum Galls and wont slide well after not much time at all. I would either under size the male section and attach 1/4" high density plastic to the sides or make one section aluminum and one section steel.
Thanks, I'm going to make one continuous piece, so there won't be any up and down adjustment from the leg itself. They will adjust height by adjusting the angle of the leg.
Have you considered mounting your miter saw to an oversized piece of 3/4” plywood then mount that assembly to your tool mounting brackets? That would give you a better platform to mount your wings to rather than trying to mount them directly to your saw. I really enjoy your videos.
you could use a pin that is bent to 90 degrees.....one side of the pin holds the hinge together and the other side of the pin is the "handle" for removal or insertion....
Would some pull latch toggle clamps work for attaching the wings to the miter saw? They're cheap and may be faster/more efficient than the door hinge option... Just a thought. I really appreciate the Channel and all of your stellar ideas and advice! Thank you!
Cool Video! I am new to your channel but I like what I have seen so far. You seem to really think through the things you do and you also seem to take pride in your work. I had a couple thoughts that might be handy. On the length of your wings, you only need to shave about 5" off so they could stand up in you van. That would just be 2.5" off of each wing. You could then make that back by attaching a spacer permanently to you saw and then fix your hinge-attachment apparatus to that. You wouldn't lose any overall length, and your work would still be fully supported on 16' pieces. And with the hinge pin, you could chuck it in a drill press and hit it with some sandpaper and take a little off of the diameter of the pin. That way it would still fit snugly enough not to have any slop in your connection but you might not need to use a hammer and punch to breakdown your setup. Anyway... sorry for the long comment... potato!
I am looking forward to that build! I definitely want a closer look at your stop block setup. If you have any sketch of skills you should make some plans. I know Ron Paulk has sold a lot of plans and made a couple extra bucks on the side. I do not think you're going to like the hinge and pin idea. If you don't have everything lined up perfectly it's not going to go in that easy. The first idea I had when after watching this video was some kind of French cleat. He'll be interesting to see what you come up with! Fantastic video! Thanks for your tips and tricks
If you had a way to hook a shelf on the front to stack your uncut trim in the front would be handy, out of the way of your adjustments. I prefer my custom table on sawhorses, with the horses protruding and creating a shelf!
I made some wings for my miter saw, similar to yours, based off some I saw on Gary Katz's website, This is Carpentry. They served me very well, until I got rear ended, blew up the back of my truck!! 😢
I have a similar (though basic and beat up after 8 years of use) wing that I used a hinge connection just as you are considering. I actually used two hinges and instead of one long pin, I use two and insert one from either side. It works well and has no noticeable movement. I used a fairly heavy duty hinge with very little play in the pin. I mounted the barrel on the bottom so the other end of the wing can drop down-it helps some when installing and removing. I used a thin piece of aluminum flat bar to space the hinge away from the saw to allow room for the barrel. Overall it works well, though I've contemplated coming up with another idea when I rebuild mine.
For the hinge pins you could get rid of the pins and replace them with long bolts. You would simply tap the last section of the hinge for the bolt size that you're using and enlarge the other hinge segments to allow the bolt to pass through. That way you could quickly run them in and out with a drill or impact driver. I would use a socket head cap type screw.
I like the hinge idea, will wait to see if that works well and make the switch. I used the dewalt saw brackets that attached to the stand. They are convenient and easy to take on and off but have a bit to much play especially with my 8’ wings. I end up clamping the bar bracket to the saws bracket to lessen the play. Not to mention makes storage much harder.
Been gathering everything I need to build a set. Got the Kapex brackets and am going to weld the mounts for my DEWALT saw. Interested to see what you come up with for the support legs, the way your current ones wobble I know would bother me.
I'm building a house right now and I'm really looking forward to seeing what you come up with. It will be a couple of months before I'm ready to start running trim so I have time to get some kind of wings built for myself. I've got a older Rigid stand with wheels but I know I need something closer to a miter saw station to give me additional working surface and hopefully help with making more accurate cuts. All your videos are fantastic and will help me to work smarter with better results. I've always loved wood working and I somewhat envy you in that you get to do it for a living. Keep it up!
This is awesome. I previously ordered a spare mounting kit from Dewalt (wanted to mount a planter to their leg setup) but never did. Now I'm toying with using a saw mount bracket for each wing - and just sliding the wing up against the saw. I know it's not the most economical solution to recommend buying another mounting kit - but curious if you have thoughts on drawbacks of this option. Thanks again - and awesome setup!
Thats kind of what I ended up doing. I like some kind of connection to the saw to ensure that my wing tape stays calibrated and doesn't move. But if it wasn't for that your plan would work well.
Excited for v.2.0! I will say the Paulk-style sawhorses are fantastic in that it allows material storage UNDERNEATH the saw (I'm really loving mine!). However, the main box does take up a lot of space, as you mentioned. I wonder if you you tried the material-storage-stands/sawhorses a try, if you'd be as big if a fan of them as I am. As always, excited to see what's coming next! Thanks for taking the time to share your way of thinking!
Great video, I like your miter saw wings idea, and that you keep improving on them to make your work more efficient, did you ever do a video on how you got into the business, and how you learned all those great skills Donald.
You could Whittle down the diameter of the hinge pin and put some kind of handle on the head of the pin to make it easier to put the pin in and take it out
Have you considered the possible alignment issue of the hinges? The wings being long and trying to get the hinge holes to align for pin insertion? I dont know, it wouldnt take much for the pin holes to not align. May have to wiggle around. Just thinking. Might not be any issue at all. I dont work with hinges much. Once together is there any slop as a single hinge? Just curious. I too like to think outside the box. Have some ideas for job helper tools. Love the vids !!!
Love your content. Have been watching for some time now. Question / suggestion on how to keep the wings flat. So, I build a set and what I found that each table is not 100% flat. It seems that the 3/4 plywood (AC) did bow some and the hardwood frame around the plywood does not seem to help in keeping it straight.
Yes, great question. Been having same problem with most of the jigs, cross cut sled, and others. Been looking into HDPE/UHMW but it’s not cheap. Not that wood is right now.
Great ideas and looking forward to the build... plus, nice to be in on this early because I usually read every single comment you get, which are super informative but do tend to eat up a lot of time. Merry Christmas!
Gradual zoom on the cut end of the wing haha I’m guessing that the hkc was the culprit on that one. I cut the top of my Rousseau table saw stand with a jigsaw promptly after purchase.
Some really good ideas here. I heard of the Festool Kapex motor issues and held off buying one but now with the new Festool kapex REB. I decided to get one and so far so good. Have you checked out the fastcap tables for Either the DeWalt or Kapex yet. I think the fastcap system might be the best way to go. I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Ron
I do own a fast cap best fence system. Its a great system for a plug and play system that can be purchased. There are just a few key features that it doesn't have that I like to make on my own, otherwise that is the route I would go.
Insider Carpentry Insider Carpentry Thanks for the reply and info. Care to elaborate? Or is that a topic for an upcoming video? I hope you and yours have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Ron
For an alternative to the window latches, check out the latches used for music/stage equipment road cases - www.reliablehardware.com/latches.aspx They're designed to stand up to the rigors of loading/unloading/shipping heavily loaded cases, and I think you'll find they're exactly what you're looking for. The surface mount latches ( www.reliablehardware.com/smalltwistlatch.aspx ) would be a a more secure equivalent of your current window latches. But if the dimensions of your wings accommodate the recessed latches, that's the way to go -- no chance of them getting bumped open in transit, and nothing protruding to snag you pants when you're working -- www.reliablehardware.com/mediumrecessedlatches.aspx
Can't wait to see the build video! I've put off replicating those wings for a while now, mostly because of the attachment to the saw mechanism... I think I had asked you before about maybe using the same kind of dewalt brackets that mount the saw on the stand, but one definite downside is keeping those tight and calibrated for the stop blocks etc. also they're bulky and expensive. Thanks for posting this! Looking forward to seeing version 2.0
Yeah, I really want something that will lock in tightly to the saw. I want to remove any chance of the tape getting knocked out of calibration during work.
Far easier than all the faffing about with hinge pins is to use a set of high quality lift off hinges. It would be trivial to make a drop down catch that will stop them getting accidentally knocked off and will reduce your setup and tear down time
Would you be willing to sell me your vgroove attachment to your dewalt saw? I have the kapex connectors with a best fence and have been wanting to use it on my dewalt 12” miter.
Seems like a lot of the features that seemed like great points from the original you’re going to Eliminate now on the next one. Example those dado in tape measures you really talked up.
After using them for a couple years I found there are just some features that I don't use and are more fluff than substance. Trying to get the design as lean as possible.
Insider Carpentry understood. Just surprised. You seemed to really like those tapes. Why don’t you use a slightly higher fence on each side of your wings?
Man I went through this same extension project for that exact saw you’d get a kick out of. My storage space is super limited so my design is a bit smaller and lighter weight. But anyone looking to do this project would get a kick out of it. Reply with an email and I can send some pictures or I’ll post a link of some kind in the next day or 2
Didn't turn out as good as I hoped to I'm gonna need some time to modify. I might get something together in late February, we'll have to see how things shake out.
I've found the best support for the wings to be rockwell jawstand. They're incredibly stable, can secure to the wing with the twist of the knob, and are adjustable for height/level on uneven jobsights. You'll find a million other uses as well.
To make the wings as light as possible I'd use a forstner drill bits and drill as many holes as possible. Maybe in the same manner as on the workbench dog holes, but with double density. It would enable you to use various dog clamps. Not only for mitre cuts, but for some other job site purposes.
This is a pretty great set up. It addresses many of the challenges that I've been pondering before building my own. I thought the hinge idea was quite good. Would you consider installing the hinge to only one part (the saw or the wing) and using some sort of slot (on the other part) for the other side of the hinge to slide into? Might be easier to line up the hinge to a slot than line up the holes for the pin. Very good design though. I appreciate the inspiration.
Did you consider using slim bar magnets to attach the wings to the saw? There are plenty of affordable high-strength options
Add a knob to the hinge pins. This should allow you to just twist and pull the pins out , or push the pins in. This is my favorite channel. You are a gifted carpenter and a true gentleman.
Was it the hinges that didn’t work out for attaching the wing for your bench..?? Thanks
A thought on using hinges for the wing attachment- if you have access to a welder you could weld a ring or T-handle on the hinge pin so it could be grabbed and removed without tools.
Lukas Sparks dangit I came to the comment section to say that, you beat me to it :)
JS CONSTRUCTION great minds think alike :-)
I'd like to see you actually use the stop so I could visualize how the offset works.
th-cam.com/video/Xa_wflKSexg/w-d-xo.html
Get another pair of saw mounts, mount directly to the saw stand, not the saw.
OH man I just built a copy of the old version. nah... actually been planning on building a set of wings. But right now I am so damn busy. Been puttin in about 73 hrs a week. The one measurement you didn't give us was the depth front to back of the wings. I have been debating between 14 and 16 inches for myself. Thank you again Spencer for all the great content you share with all of us. I have been a carpenter for over 35 years and am always looking to learn or pick up tips and or tricks to speed things up or make the job easier. THANKS
My last set was 15" wide total. This new set I'm adding 2" for 17" wide total. Not sure what I'll like better. But I think I'd like a little more width for stacking cut pieces.
@@InsiderCarpentry I am going to start builing my wings possibly tomorrow. I have had everything in the shop for the last couple weeks, just been working on making time. I trimmed off of a Dewalt 12" slider for years, but recently switched to a 10" Makita slider with the bevel controls up front. It can still cut 5.25 base vertical which is nice. It was a challenge to figure out the mounts for the Makita, as the sides are not flat like the Dewalt. But have the brackets made now, and I just need to make the wings themselves. Thanks.for all your time in making these videos. Aproximately how long and wide is your stop? And how.far.in from the t track is the first dado with the magnetic tape?
@@InsiderCarpentry Yea I was thinking of doing them around 16 inches. Because I do the same thing (batch cut) with the stand I have now and sometimes it gets pretty tight on space. thank you again for the time you take to do this content and to help the trade in general.
I built a similar set up last year for processing 16 foot joist during floor builds. My experience has been that the average joists are 2x10. This year I will be cutting my wings down to 6 to 8 inches. Reason being that I find the 2x10x16 lumber to be heavy and I need a little room to be able to grab the work piece and move it on the table. It will also save a few pounds and make storage a little easier as well.
Your videos are awesome. Thank you for sacrificing your valuable time to educate us, your subscribers and fellow carpenters. As for potentially wider wings to help hold materials, perhaps making hooks of some sort on the legs of the miter stand to hold crown and baseboard 🤔 Currently, I use very basic 8’ wings that I set up with material supports. I don’t do high volume work but I still want to build a set of more efficient wings. Looking forward to the 2.0 build video!
Insider Carpentry- consider mounts using one side of the hinge plus pin on the saw base, then cut off lower half of the barrels on the wingside of hinge for a drop in fit. Then add a lock down which can be simple, maybe the same clamp style you have now. That way there's no fiddling w/poping out hinge pins which equates to hammering on Ur machinery
G’Day Mate
Love your work just subbed. I have a suggestion about the mounting of the wings it may have been suggested already . You could use the same dewalt clamps that attach to the mitre saw which clamp to the
Dewalt bench. I seen something similar with a crown mould jig.
Instead of the hinge why not use dominos? You could mount a wood block onto the side of the saw 3/4” below the bed. then have the mating side of the wing (3/4” material) sit on top of that block. The dominos would index and hold it in place and it would simply just knock apart. I can see it in my head but idk if I’m explaining it well.
Very impressive. Lots of thought and analysis, well explained. Also like the look and functionality. One suggestion - attach those hinge pins to the saw or the wings with a small chain. Best wishes and Merry Christmas!
i am excited to see your hinge idea... i tried almost the same idea but with no success?
Fantastic! I look forward to seeing your updates to the saw wings. I was about to start on making a copy of what you use as my next generation wings (there is always something else to do). I have been thinking about the saw to fence attachments for a long while. Since i now have the Dewalt miter stand, I have been thinking of using a second set of mounting brackets (DW7231) with shims to get the height exactly right. Thoughts?
I thought of using a pair of door hinges a couple of years ago, but never executed on that. I was going to try filing down the pin a bit and using a neodymium magnet at the far end and weld a washer or nut as a pull handle at the head.
Hurry up and build them !!! Just kidding. I was about to build your old design. My plan is to build them next week over vacation. I have a few changes. No material supports . I have the larger dewalt stand and I’m going to use the outriggers that it comes with to hold the wings . I don’t use the mounts for the saw to stand. I have my saw attached to a piece of 3/4 plywood( permanently ) and I attach that to the stand using brass inserts ( mounted into the stand) then I attach my saw to the stand. My plan is to add a block on either side of the saw and use the same inserts to attach the wings. Thanks for your content. It really helps me step my game up.
Just a follow up to getbergets comment. Richard at finish carpentry uses the dewalt miter saw attachments (dw73 I believe) to attach crown stop to stand. I'm wondering if that might be worth thinking about as an attachment for the wings. Not sure if the short stand would allow enough room, may need the larger dewalt stand but then that may or may not make your system possible. But certainly worth considering.
You’ve got some genius ideas here.
I enjoy your cleverness and dedication to everything you do. I've been doing finish work for about 30 years. I was solo for a long time. One thing I discovered is that employees will be much harder on all your nice tools and equipment than you are. Just be prepared. It's heartbreaking and frustrating. You have to develop the mentality of a landlord or it will drive you nuts.
Yeah, one of the many reasons I've stayed solo.
@@InsiderCarpentry No one to sue you either for chopping their hands off! I work solo on renovations for same reason... it takes me longer to explain what needs doing to an employee then to do it yourself!
Great shop. You show do a video tour of it. Especially all of the organizational features.
I just had an idea for attaching the wings to the saw. Screw a peice of aluminum grant clip to the saw,, It's basically a metal french cleat, and a peice on the wing, then drill a hole through both and use a push button ball detent t handle to go through both peices. I hope that makes sense, im not good at explaining things.
Maybe for the connection use a spring loaded pull pin. Seen somewhere but I can’t remember where. I’ll send info if I think of it
jonathan Delaney Yo! Like one of those spring loaded door stop things you step on, then step on the little tab to release?
I hope the 1st Kapex was covered under warranty, if not you were very kind to purchase a 2nd unit, I had a new Makita that failed numerous times, sold it and went Bosch, if the Bosch ever needs updating I won't ever buy another Makita the Chinese made versions are rubbish
How did you go through 3 Kapex? Those things are expensive and from what others say they are the best. I have no experience with them myself, too expensive for my blood.
2. They don't hold up with a lot of repetitive cutting and low power situations which is pretty much the daily norm trimming new homes. Allegedly they have fixed the motor issues with their latest model. Regardless, I prefer a 12" blade.
Insider Carpentry Wow! Well that’s good to know. Thanks for the input.
love your vids.
long time carpenter here myself.
for your hinge pin deal Id suggest a rod same dimension as current pins but longer with a D
ring on end to pull out.
Hey Spencer
First of all, your videos are awesome and please keep them coming. You’re a wealth of knowledge and I appreciate your in depth instructions.
I haven’t seen anything about this on your videos but I heard you mention that weight is an issue.
Would drilling holes in the wings and also the wing legs help that issue?
Or even cutting out an area in the middle on the wing supports, similar to the Ron Paulk sawhorses used for his work bench.
Thanks again for all you do.
Randy Blair
You have some very good ideas....Looking forward to see the build video(s).
Sweet setup! I always thought that using a pair of butt hinges would be a great method for the wing attachment. Securing 1 leaf to the base of the saw and the mating leaf to the wing itself. Insert pin to assemble and remove it to break it down..
I like the crown molding stop but it only holds the crown near the saw , I make mine with taller back stops on the wing and stop blocks a few feet apart so you can drop a 16" crown on eather side of the saw, need a lumber rack to hall mine around.
You have great tips for our trade, Thanks for the videos! One thing to consider on your new legs is that aluminum Galls and wont slide well after not much time at all. I would either under size the male section and attach 1/4" high density plastic to the sides or make one section aluminum and one section steel.
Thanks, I'm going to make one continuous piece, so there won't be any up and down adjustment from the leg itself. They will adjust height by adjusting the angle of the leg.
Have you considered mounting your miter saw to an oversized piece of 3/4” plywood then mount that assembly to your tool mounting brackets? That would give you a better platform to mount your wings to rather than trying to mount them directly to your saw. I really enjoy your videos.
you could use a pin that is bent to 90 degrees.....one side of the pin holds the hinge together and the other side of the pin is the "handle" for removal or insertion....
Would some pull latch toggle clamps work for attaching the wings to the miter saw? They're cheap and may be faster/more efficient than the door hinge option...
Just a thought. I really appreciate the Channel and all of your stellar ideas and advice! Thank you!
Cool Video! I am new to your channel but I like what I have seen so far. You seem to really think through the things you do and you also seem to take pride in your work. I had a couple thoughts that might be handy. On the length of your wings, you only need to shave about 5" off so they could stand up in you van. That would just be 2.5" off of each wing. You could then make that back by attaching a spacer permanently to you saw and then fix your hinge-attachment apparatus to that. You wouldn't lose any overall length, and your work would still be fully supported on 16' pieces. And with the hinge pin, you could chuck it in a drill press and hit it with some sandpaper and take a little off of the diameter of the pin. That way it would still fit snugly enough not to have any slop in your connection but you might not need to use a hammer and punch to breakdown your setup. Anyway... sorry for the long comment... potato!
Hey Spencer. Thank you for sharing all of the knowledge. Cant wait for the 2.0 tutorial video.
Godspeed my friend.
I am looking forward to that build! I definitely want a closer look at your stop block setup. If you have any sketch of skills you should make some plans. I know Ron Paulk has sold a lot of plans and made a couple extra bucks on the side. I do not think you're going to like the hinge and pin idea. If you don't have everything lined up perfectly it's not going to go in that easy. The first idea I had when after watching this video was some kind of French cleat. He'll be interesting to see what you come up with! Fantastic video! Thanks for your tips and tricks
If you had a way to hook a shelf on the front to stack your uncut trim in the front would be handy, out of the way of your adjustments. I prefer my custom table on sawhorses, with the horses protruding and creating a shelf!
Hey Spence! Curious if you’ve made the step by step video or any detailed instructions? @insidercarpentry
When are u planning to do 2.0 build video for the wings. We are waiting
I made some wings for my miter saw, similar to yours, based off some I saw on Gary Katz's website, This is Carpentry. They served me very well, until I got rear ended, blew up the back of my truck!! 😢
Love to have measurements and diagram for your crown stop and stop block. Also measurements on your wings. Great job!
I have a similar (though basic and beat up after 8 years of use) wing that I used a hinge connection just as you are considering. I actually used two hinges and instead of one long pin, I use two and insert one from either side. It works well and has no noticeable movement. I used a fairly heavy duty hinge with very little play in the pin. I mounted the barrel on the bottom so the other end of the wing can drop down-it helps some when installing and removing. I used a thin piece of aluminum flat bar to space the hinge away from the saw to allow room for the barrel. Overall it works well, though I've contemplated coming up with another idea when I rebuild mine.
Great video. The hinge idea is great and super simple A++++++
Thanks again. I learned a lot from ur channel
For the hinge pins you could get rid of the pins and replace them with long bolts. You would simply tap the last section of the hinge for the bolt size that you're using and enlarge the other hinge segments to allow the bolt to pass through. That way you could quickly run them in and out with a drill or impact driver. I would use a socket head cap type screw.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻another great demonstration on the old one and you Thoughts on how to make the next one
I'm watching.. I built the Paulk one and love it for crown and long mill work but it takes up to much room I. My van
I like the hinge idea, will wait to see if that works well and make the switch. I used the dewalt saw brackets that attached to the stand. They are convenient and easy to take on and off but have a bit to much play especially with my 8’ wings. I end up clamping the bar bracket to the saws bracket to lessen the play. Not to mention makes storage much harder.
Been gathering everything I need to build a set. Got the Kapex brackets and am going to weld the mounts for my DEWALT saw. Interested to see what you come up with for the support legs, the way your current ones wobble I know would bother me.
I'm building a house right now and I'm really looking forward to seeing what you come up with. It will be a couple of months before I'm ready to start running trim so I have time to get some kind of wings built for myself. I've got a older Rigid stand with wheels but I know I need something closer to a miter saw station to give me additional working surface and hopefully help with making more accurate cuts. All your videos are fantastic and will help me to work smarter with better results. I've always loved wood working and I somewhat envy you in that you get to do it for a living. Keep it up!
This is awesome. I previously ordered a spare mounting kit from Dewalt (wanted to mount a planter to their leg setup) but never did. Now I'm toying with using a saw mount bracket for each wing - and just sliding the wing up against the saw. I know it's not the most economical solution to recommend buying another mounting kit - but curious if you have thoughts on drawbacks of this option.
Thanks again - and awesome setup!
Thats kind of what I ended up doing. I like some kind of connection to the saw to ensure that my wing tape stays calibrated and doesn't move. But if it wasn't for that your plan would work well.
@@InsiderCarpentry Thanks! Keep up the great work - no doubt you will!
Where is 2.0 build video!!!! I MUST HAVE IT NOW!!!
I finally decided to build similar wings. U and I realize how good u are in improving everyday tools that we use. Thanks again
If you weld a T-handle on the hinge pin, you might be able to push it in and pull it out without needing a hammer and a puncher
How do you think they would hold up if you built them out of azek? I think it would be much lighter
Could you store them vertically in the side door step? There should be extra height there.
Excited for v.2.0! I will say the Paulk-style sawhorses are fantastic in that it allows material storage UNDERNEATH the saw (I'm really loving mine!). However, the main box does take up a lot of space, as you mentioned. I wonder if you you tried the material-storage-stands/sawhorses a try, if you'd be as big if a fan of them as I am.
As always, excited to see what's coming next! Thanks for taking the time to share your way of thinking!
Great video, I like your miter saw wings idea, and that you keep improving on them to make your work more efficient, did you ever do a video on how you got into the business, and how you learned all those great skills Donald.
Thanks, I hope to do some business focused videos in the future but I haven't yet.
You could Whittle down the diameter of the hinge pin and put some kind of handle on the head of the pin to make it easier to put the pin in and take it out
Have you considered the possible alignment issue of the hinges? The wings being long and trying to get the hinge holes to align for pin insertion? I dont know, it wouldnt take much for the pin holes to not align. May have to wiggle around. Just thinking. Might not be any issue at all. I dont work with hinges much. Once together is there any slop as a single hinge? Just curious. I too like to think outside the box. Have some ideas for job helper tools.
Love the vids !!!
We'll see how it goes. This is a complete test. But I want something simple that other guys can easily copy.
You can get a ball and socket connection , maybe two on each side to pop on and off
Love your content. Have been watching for some time now. Question / suggestion on how to keep the wings flat. So, I build a set and what I found that each table is not 100% flat. It seems that the 3/4 plywood (AC) did bow some and the hardwood frame around the plywood does not seem to help in keeping it straight.
Yes, great question. Been having same problem with most of the jigs, cross cut sled, and others. Been looking into HDPE/UHMW but it’s not cheap. Not that wood is right now.
what a guy thank you for taking your time to share your talents and knowledge with others. will be looking forward to seeing the new version
Is there an actual link straight to that folding stop block
Great ideas and you do a fantastic job with these videos! thanks so much
I’m getting ready to build a set up just like this hopefully you put up the rebuild soon for ideas
Great ideas and looking forward to the build... plus, nice to be in on this early because I usually read every single comment you get, which are super informative but do tend to eat up a lot of time. Merry Christmas!
Amen brother
I would sand the hinge pin down, so it would slide in easier.
Gradual zoom on the cut end of the wing haha I’m guessing that the hkc was the culprit on that one. I cut the top of my Rousseau table saw stand with a jigsaw promptly after purchase.
Haha. You are exactly right.
Check McMasters- they carry pins with handles
You are generous with your ideas.
I enjoy
For the wing attachment, you could use a T-slot on the saw, and a t-slot extrusion /slider on the wing. This would be nice, tight, and easy to repeat.
something like this th-cam.com/video/2Yr6HrxGmRs/w-d-xo.html I have a Eurekazone track saw, and it uses these and I love it
Awesome can't wait to see what you come up with thanks
Nice set-up. Have you considered using panel clips for the saw/wing attachment?
Right. Short lengths of aluminum z-bar hanger came to mind. A little tricky initially but set and forget after that.
Great video, looking forward seeing more detail.
Sugatsune HG-OTA75 Stainless Steel 304 Quick Release Hinge with Screw Holes, Satin Finish, 50mm Open Width, 6mm Pin Diameter, 75mm Height
Good idea. Have you used these before?
No, I just looked them up there. There’s quite a few to choose from
Some really good ideas here. I heard of the Festool Kapex motor issues and held off buying one but now with the new Festool kapex REB. I decided to get one and so far so good. Have you checked out the fastcap tables for Either the DeWalt or Kapex yet. I think the fastcap system might be the best way to go. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
Ron
I do own a fast cap best fence system. Its a great system for a plug and play system that can be purchased. There are just a few key features that it doesn't have that I like to make on my own, otherwise that is the route I would go.
Insider Carpentry Insider Carpentry
Thanks for the reply and info. Care to elaborate? Or is that a topic for an upcoming video?
I hope you and yours have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Ron
For an alternative to the window latches, check out the latches used for music/stage equipment road cases - www.reliablehardware.com/latches.aspx
They're designed to stand up to the rigors of loading/unloading/shipping heavily loaded cases, and I think you'll find they're exactly what you're looking for.
The surface mount latches ( www.reliablehardware.com/smalltwistlatch.aspx ) would be a a more secure equivalent of your current window latches.
But if the dimensions of your wings accommodate the recessed latches, that's the way to go -- no chance of them getting bumped open in transit, and nothing protruding to snag you pants when you're working -- www.reliablehardware.com/mediumrecessedlatches.aspx
Lots of great info, thanks for sharing.
Can't wait to see the build video! I've put off replicating those wings for a while now, mostly because of the attachment to the saw mechanism... I think I had asked you before about maybe using the same kind of dewalt brackets that mount the saw on the stand, but one definite downside is keeping those tight and calibrated for the stop blocks etc. also they're bulky and expensive. Thanks for posting this! Looking forward to seeing version 2.0
Yeah, I really want something that will lock in tightly to the saw. I want to remove any chance of the tape getting knocked out of calibration during work.
@@InsiderCarpentry For sure
Does anyone know if the build video came out? I havent been able to find it anywhere.
Sorry, I never ended up showing the actual build process in video.
Really looking forward to series!
Far easier than all the faffing about with hinge pins is to use a set of high quality lift off hinges. It would be trivial to make a drop down catch that will stop them getting accidentally knocked off and will reduce your setup and tear down time
Would you be willing to sell me your vgroove attachment to your dewalt saw? I have the kapex connectors with a best fence and have been wanting to use it on my dewalt 12” miter.
Bout time you did something, besides loafing around the shop. I'm anxious to see what ya come up for the connection.
Haha. I'm sick of projects. I'm ready to get back on the jobsite.
@@InsiderCarpentry I hear ya man, I don't like being off very long myself. I start running outta stuff to do and get restless and bored.
Have you considered to use Aluminium planks instead of timber to keep the weight down.
Seems like a lot of the features that seemed like great points from the original you’re going to Eliminate now on the next one. Example those dado in tape measures you really talked up.
After using them for a couple years I found there are just some features that I don't use and are more fluff than substance. Trying to get the design as lean as possible.
Insider Carpentry understood. Just surprised. You seemed to really like those tapes. Why don’t you use a slightly higher fence on each side of your wings?
I think that’s the first time I’ve heard a negative comment about Kapex from a user.
Lots of functionality
Man I went through this same extension project for that exact saw you’d get a kick out of.
My storage space is super limited so my design is a bit smaller and lighter weight. But anyone looking to do this project would get a kick out of it.
Reply with an email and I can send some pictures or I’ll post a link of some kind in the next day or 2
Hey Kermit I’m interested in your lighter version. Muro269@gmail.com
spencer@insidercarpentry.com
@@realworldcarpentryremodeli5868 sorry for the slow response, just sent a few pictures to your email
@@InsiderCarpentry just sent a few pictures to your email
Excited to watch it
This is awesome!!
I can't wait
Look forward to it
So stoked!
Plan’s ?
And what did you do to break two kapex ?
When is the new design video being released?
Didn't turn out as good as I hoped to I'm gonna need some time to modify. I might get something together in late February, we'll have to see how things shake out.
Are you still going to do a build video on these?
Non anytime soon. 2.0 didn't turn out that great so I didn't end up going for a build video.
I've found the best support for the wings to be rockwell jawstand. They're incredibly stable, can secure to the wing with the twist of the knob, and are adjustable for height/level on uneven jobsights. You'll find a million other uses as well.
I like the hinge idea. What about clip top hinges? They attach and detach easily and have added adjustment in them.
To make the wings as light as possible I'd use a forstner drill bits and drill as many holes as possible. Maybe in the same manner as on the workbench dog holes, but with double density. It would enable you to use various dog clamps. Not only for mitre cuts, but for some other job site purposes.
very interesting idea
This is a pretty great set up. It addresses many of the challenges that I've been pondering before building my own.
I thought the hinge idea was quite good. Would you consider installing the hinge to only one part (the saw or the wing) and using some sort of slot (on the other part) for the other side of the hinge to slide into? Might be easier to line up the hinge to a slot than line up the holes for the pin.
Very good design though. I appreciate the inspiration.