Goal was to make the enclosure from as much plywood as possible to achieve a rock solid structure, yet lightweight. More info: / pssounddemoproject / pssounduk / audiblephysicsuk
I haven't even finished the video and wanted to take the time to (more than just 'Like' the video) say you are producing some of the best car audio videos on youtube at the moment. It takes a tone of extra time to video and edit vs just do the install and I guarantee that people appreciate the effort you are making. Love for you to do some tuning / software based videos too > 4 way front end is out of this world next level.
Thanks Chris! It definitely takes hell of a lot more time, especially when you have to do the video footage 2x and this is not a source of living. It would be cool to do this full time! I’ve made a note of your suggestion about the tuning and i’ll definitely get there too! ;)
This is so far beyond what I thought you'd have to do for door enclosures. Attention to detail and determination to get the desired results is simply inspiring. Imagine if after all that there's a hole that you can't find - it would drive me insane. Seriously thanks for filming and explaining each of the steps. Really cool insight into this.
@@pssound9749 Haha, I haven't watched that entire bit yet, but I've heard you reference it in various videos and I think I did see one where you took it out to do something. That's some next level fabrication. But at most, all I'd want is my dash in alcantara one day - for now I'm saving up so that my door doesn't sound like a bee every time the mid bass is strong in the track; but it'll take a while to save :D
Halomaster4ever Unfortunately there’s no video footage of the dash build, but yes, i’ve showed bits and bobs of it a month or so ago when the enclosures were out for modifications.
That’s done brilliant, Peter. You never fail to inspire the world, every time. I can understand how much of planning, hard-work & sleepless nights it takes, for one such video. Hats off to you, brother. God bless you❤️🙏😍
This is the second time watching this and I’m starting to understand the “why” and how you made this box piece by piece. You rarely see this type of box building being demonstrated. Thank you!
I've never had a car audio video keep me on the edge of my seat and me biting my nails like this one...well its never happened actually lol. The way you explain things and convey the steps to us is superb. I believe I could build these panels in my sleep. You make it look too easy actually when I know it's not at all. I would definitely get a nail gun. I would get a battery-powered one like I'm going to get simply because you don't have to fight the hose, have the noise of the compressor, and deal with the maintenance and water like you do with an air pneumatic model. By the time it takes to put a screw on the end of the drill steady it and then run the screw-in, hoping it doesn't pop off, you could have put in four nails. And honestly once that glue sets, the screws and nails are worthless. And honestly it's easier to fill and get rid of the nail holes then screw heads. I'll give you the link to the one I use. Thank you for giving us the recommendation on the wood glue also! I also like how you take the time to build the little triangles to fill in areas. It may seem like a long time but it gives a better shape and a lot less work in the long run having to use filler. Once again Peter, thank you for these and I'm going to be using so many of your techniques, like using the screw tips coming through the other side to mark adjacent pieces, when it comes to me building my door enclosures. M18 nail gun.... www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-2740-20-fuel-m18-18v-cordless-lithium-ion-18-gauge-brushless-brad-nailer--bare-tool-/miln2740-20,default,pd.html M12 stapler... www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-2447-21-m12-3-8-in--crown-stapler-kit/miln2447-21,default,pd.html
Peter, thank you so much for taking the time to film and explain everything. I have a couple of questions that I need answering if you may? 1. I assume the door hinges/ hangers on vehicles with large door pods like this can take it? 2. How do you work out the volume of the enclosure to relate to speaker optimisation in reference to the enclosure size? Eg. If I wanted to build a door with a 10inch 250 mm Subwoofer Driver such as a JL Audio 10W3v3-4 which is optimized to operate in a compact 0.625 cu. ft. (17.7 I) sealed enclosure; how do you ensure its the right size? Thanks again. Top channel 🙌
Very cool real world car audio work man. This is great work that you just happen to film, instead of like the other car audio channels that string you along just for the views. Thank you
The industry is not necessarily going to the right direction! As much as I understand that shops have to be efficient and do something nice for clients’ eyes, sound quality is not priority! This thing for example won’t look anything that fancy, but i’m sure it will sound somewhat different, than what people are used to! I may have to record reactions once! 😃
Very nice work result and it's great that you share with us what you do with great depth. We can now replicate this on our own cars. What do you think about how does this enclosure affects getting in and out of the car? My cars have sometimes footwear marks on the grills even in factory positions.
Thanks for this video. The first one I've found where someone shows how to properly mount the enclosure to the door. It seems most guys are adding loads of speakers to a door panel and still just use the factory clips
Loving the work you do in your videos peter, i have to agree with the other comments, totally awesome work and gives me one more reason to keep checking youtube for updates ! keep em coming bro :)
Thanks Paul! Yeah, i was really fed up with the doors! No matter what you do, something always rattles! Rigidity is the key, especially for front subs like i use in these boxes.
I have a newbie question: what is the purpose of this 8inch sub in the door when you have a sub in the glove box and a 6inch mid in the deck??? Love the build by the way
Thumbs up !! Thanks for the videos, I know it takes time and effort to record, edit and upload. I'm subscribing! Tell me please, what is a "milkshake", what kind of product are you using? Thanks!
2 could hold it just fine, 3 are zero chance for movement. 70% of the weight is at the front, so the back needs nothing to stay in place. You can see it for yourself, it’s still in use.
Jason Gamet if it’s 3 way and you run a midbass under 300Hz, then nothing to worry about when it comes to aiming, it won’t really make a difference, like location can. If it’s 2way and you have to play the midbass upto 2-3kHz, then you have to worry about aiming, but location would cause other problems anyway. Check out part 7.1-7.3 in the SQ in car playlist to hear more about speaker installation.
Hi Peter which driver have you used for this sealed box and what is the electrical power bandwidth(Frequency range) that you chose for them. How do you expect a box with F3 around 55Hz(Ourside car) to work in this environment.
Hi Jai! I used the Sbacoustics SB23MFCL. One of the inexpensive options i found to suit this application and they work pretty well. F3=55Hz is rather suitable for sub duties. Normally 6,5” midbass speakers have 75-90Hz F3 in car applications.
I've watched a lot of your videos and can't understand why you don't use fiberglass and polyester resin. This is faster and more efficient, especially when creating boxes of complex shapes.
There are many different ways of doing things, it is what it is. You don’t have to understand it, just accept it as an alternative. We don’t build everything from wood. Sometimes fibreglass is the answer, but it’s far from quicker. Also, if you want fibreglass to be resonant free and as dead as wood enclosure, that equally takes plenty of time.
Pssound sorry bro no disrespect you your really gifted in your builds it’s really hard to scalp out of wood as fibreglass takes the shape with very little effort and it’s hard as stone wen cured
susan smith my problem is with the “very little effort”, which is not little if you want to make it as rigid and vibration free as the structure i built with braces. There are occasions when i can’t get away without using fibreglass, but if i can, i rather do.
I haven't even finished the video and wanted to take the time to (more than just 'Like' the video) say you are producing some of the best car audio videos on youtube at the moment.
It takes a tone of extra time to video and edit vs just do the install and I guarantee that people appreciate the effort you are making.
Love for you to do some tuning / software based videos too > 4 way front end is out of this world next level.
Thanks Chris! It definitely takes hell of a lot more time, especially when you have to do the video footage 2x and this is not a source of living.
It would be cool to do this full time!
I’ve made a note of your suggestion about the tuning and i’ll definitely get there too! ;)
This is so far beyond what I thought you'd have to do for door enclosures.
Attention to detail and determination to get the desired results is simply inspiring.
Imagine if after all that there's a hole that you can't find - it would drive me insane.
Seriously thanks for filming and explaining each of the steps. Really cool insight into this.
Halomaster4ever This was simple...compared to the dash build! 😃
@@pssound9749 Haha, I haven't watched that entire bit yet, but I've heard you reference it in various videos and I think I did see one where you took it out to do something. That's some next level fabrication. But at most, all I'd want is my dash in alcantara one day - for now I'm saving up so that my door doesn't sound like a bee every time the mid bass is strong in the track; but it'll take a while to save :D
Halomaster4ever Unfortunately there’s no video footage of the dash build, but yes, i’ve showed bits and bobs of it a month or so ago when the enclosures were out for modifications.
That’s done brilliant, Peter. You never fail to inspire the world, every time.
I can understand how much of planning, hard-work & sleepless nights it takes, for one such video.
Hats off to you, brother. God bless you❤️🙏😍
This is the second time watching this and I’m starting to understand the “why” and how you made this box piece by piece. You rarely see this type of box building being demonstrated. Thank you!
I've never had a car audio video keep me on the edge of my seat and me biting my nails like this one...well its never happened actually lol.
The way you explain things and convey the steps to us is superb. I believe I could build these panels in my sleep. You make it look too easy actually when I know it's not at all.
I would definitely get a nail gun. I would get a battery-powered one like I'm going to get simply because you don't have to fight the hose, have the noise of the compressor, and deal with the maintenance and water like you do with an air pneumatic model.
By the time it takes to put a screw on the end of the drill steady it and then run the screw-in, hoping it doesn't pop off, you could have put in four nails. And honestly once that glue sets, the screws and nails are worthless. And honestly it's easier to fill and get rid of the nail holes then screw heads.
I'll give you the link to the one I use.
Thank you for giving us the recommendation on the wood glue also! I also like how you take the time to build the little triangles to fill in areas. It may seem like a long time but it gives a better shape and a lot less work in the long run having to use filler.
Once again Peter, thank you for these and I'm going to be using so many of your techniques, like using the screw tips coming through the other side to mark adjacent pieces, when it comes to me building my door enclosures.
M18 nail gun....
www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-2740-20-fuel-m18-18v-cordless-lithium-ion-18-gauge-brushless-brad-nailer--bare-tool-/miln2740-20,default,pd.html
M12 stapler...
www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-2447-21-m12-3-8-in--crown-stapler-kit/miln2447-21,default,pd.html
Thanks Justin for the nice words, your support means a lot! I think i can tell that you like my videos by now! 😉
Wow! Nice work! Amazing. I was always wondering how those pods were fixed to the door. Thanks for going through each step.
Your work is out of this world. Learning something new with each and every video you post. Cannot wait to see the finished product!
It’s not that far away now! 😊
Peter, thank you so much for taking the time to film and explain everything. I have a couple of questions that I need answering if you may?
1. I assume the door hinges/ hangers on vehicles with large door pods like this can take it?
2. How do you work out the volume of the enclosure to relate to speaker optimisation in reference to the enclosure size? Eg. If I wanted to build a door with a 10inch 250 mm Subwoofer Driver such as a JL Audio
10W3v3-4 which is optimized to operate in a
compact 0.625 cu. ft. (17.7 I) sealed enclosure; how do you ensure its the right size?
Thanks again. Top channel 🙌
I am so anxious to see these finished. Amazing work man, love the setup
Thanks Robby! They are not far now! 2 more parts of videos are coming shortly! 😉
Very cool real world car audio work man. This is great work that you just happen to film, instead of like the other car audio channels that string you along just for the views. Thank you
The industry is not necessarily going to the right direction! As much as I understand that shops have to be efficient and do something nice for clients’ eyes, sound quality is not priority! This thing for example won’t look anything that fancy, but i’m sure it will sound somewhat different, than what people are used to!
I may have to record reactions once! 😃
This is looking like a fish of my dream.
Very nice work result and it's great that you share with us what you do with great depth. We can now replicate this on our own cars. What do you think about how does this enclosure affects getting in and out of the car? My cars have sometimes footwear marks on the grills even in factory positions.
Awesome job peter, from ps sounds!
So nice, so so nice.
Amazing attention to detail.
Thanks for this video. The first one I've found where someone shows how to properly mount the enclosure to the door. It seems most guys are adding loads of speakers to a door panel and still just use the factory clips
Wow sir seriously... Very good work. I just subscribed to your channel can't wait to see more of this. This is top quality work
Gyönyörű munka ... rég gondolkodom, hogy a fabia ajtóm megcsinálom ezen a módon
Norbert Ha nem kell kivagnod a belso lemezt, akkor joval egyszerubb! Igy nekem 80 ora volt a 2 ajto karpitozassal.
@@pssound9749 igazábol nem tudom mekkora liter kellene :)
Norbert Mindig a leheto legnagyobbat kell epiteni, tul nagy egy ajton sosem lesz! 😃
Loving the work you do in your videos peter, i have to agree with the other comments, totally awesome work and gives me one more reason to keep checking youtube for updates ! keep em coming bro :)
Thanks Chris! I hope to give even more! ;)
Superb job real solid builds
Thanks Paul! Yeah, i was really fed up with the doors! No matter what you do, something always rattles! Rigidity is the key, especially for front subs like i use in these boxes.
Pure artist stuff ....
Good job. Ready for part 3 now😁
Thanks Ernest! Hopefully i can release part 3 tomorrow! 😉
I just saw the video from DBTV with all the PSSOUND.
DBTV? DbDrag you mean?
Great man
I can't stop chuckling every time he says "PU glue." lol
Wow very good how many hours? 40 per door?
charlie francis Indeed! As the inner skin of the door had to be cut out, it added quite a complexity as can be seen in the video.
Exellent work!
Thank you Chuck! 🙏
Ever thought about bed liner instead of the milk shake inside sub boxes I have seen test where bed liner can make stuff bomb proof with a few layers.
I have a newbie question: what is the purpose of this 8inch sub in the door when you have a sub in the glove box and a 6inch mid in the deck??? Love the build by the way
Thanks! Watch “why midbass speaker on the dash” video, that will answer your questions. Come back after that! 😉
Thumbs up !! Thanks for the videos, I know it takes time and effort to record, edit and upload. I'm subscribing!
Tell me please, what is a "milkshake", what kind of product are you using?
Thanks!
Check out the latest A-pillar build shared in December, that shows it on fine detail! 👍🤘
@@pssound9749 Thank you for answering, i'm checking it out.
Wow spectacular
hi Peter, have you weighted them when building? would certainly go the same path..and would like to know what to expect in terms of weighting. Thanks
Hi Mihai,
If you build it from 12mm ply, then you’ll be surprised how light it is, probably around 8kg.
@@pssound9749 thanks :) i atend 5kg max including milkshake with sand, have some plastic materials in mind..but have to check if they are rigid enough
I don’t have the patience...I just want to sit in it and listen lmao!
Gregory Rose III What are you waiting for? 😃
Pssound yea speaking of, when’s the next event you can demo it? I want to fly over and listen 👂!
Gregory Rose III If you fly over, you can get a demo anytime! 😎
Nice work sir
Thank you Bryan!
Are the door boxes only fastened with three bolts? What about in the back of the door?
2 could hold it just fine, 3 are zero chance for movement. 70% of the weight is at the front, so the back needs nothing to stay in place. You can see it for yourself, it’s still in use.
what consideration did you or would you put into "Aiming" the driver into the listening area?
Jason Gamet if it’s 3 way and you run a midbass under 300Hz, then nothing to worry about when it comes to aiming, it won’t really make a difference, like location can. If it’s 2way and you have to play the midbass upto 2-3kHz, then you have to worry about aiming, but location would cause other problems anyway.
Check out part 7.1-7.3 in the SQ in car playlist to hear more about speaker installation.
@@pssound9749 Thanks for the quick reply.
the technical term used in the industry for a powdered solid mixed with resin is a "slurry" :D
Nah, it’s milkshake in caraudio. 🤣🤣
How many liters did the enclosures end up being? Amazing work.
Never mind that. Just watched part 3 and -- 13.2L or .47cf
How much did these pods end up weighing?
dlf restoration Not more than the previous panel, less than it looks, ~10kg.
Hi Peter which driver have you used for this sealed box and what is the electrical power bandwidth(Frequency range) that you chose for them. How do you expect a box with F3 around 55Hz(Ourside car) to work in this environment.
Hi Jai! I used the Sbacoustics SB23MFCL. One of the inexpensive options i found to suit this application and they work pretty well.
F3=55Hz is rather suitable for sub duties. Normally 6,5” midbass speakers have 75-90Hz F3 in car applications.
Hey Peter, thanks for the information. Really appreciate you man.
just brace with dowel rods, save internal volume.. very intriguing though
I've watched a lot of your videos and can't understand why you don't use fiberglass and polyester resin. This is faster and more efficient, especially when creating boxes of complex shapes.
There are many different ways of doing things, it is what it is. You don’t have to understand it, just accept it as an alternative. We don’t build everything from wood. Sometimes fibreglass is the answer, but it’s far from quicker. Also, if you want fibreglass to be resonant free and as dead as wood enclosure, that equally takes plenty of time.
A like 👍👍👍
I would sick with fibreglass resin forget that moulding out with wood
susan smith this way it’s stronger for me. You can do it your way, go for it!
Pssound sorry bro no disrespect you your really gifted in your builds it’s really hard to scalp out of wood as fibreglass takes the shape with very little effort and it’s hard as stone wen cured
susan smith my problem is with the “very little effort”, which is not little if you want to make it as rigid and vibration free as the structure i built with braces. There are occasions when i can’t get away without using fibreglass, but if i can, i rather do.
Bel lavoro ! th-cam.com/video/C6DcDS0dHDo/w-d-xo.html
Subsonics bass, the plastics switches will rattle. Pointless
They don’t.