Took me 3 hours to get the hammer spring out cos it was bent. Mine is the new MK2 sub 12ft llb and its an absolute nightmare to get past the anti tamper guff. Kral have used a helicoil spring in the thread that holds the rear trigger arm mount. Its the mount that holds the part that is connected to the trigger pull rod. The arm mount has a 6mm male thread but the hole in the block is 7mm. The helicoil spring reduces the hole thread size to 6mm. Underneath the helicoil spring is a brass plug that has been hammered in,so that its difficult to get out of the threaded hole. Underneath this brass plug is the anti tamper grub screw. I had to pull the helicoil out by twisting and pulling at the same time. It came out in three bits. The helicoil metal is so soft it breaks really easily. I drilled a 2mm hole in the brass plug. Its mega difficult because the brass plug spins whilst you are trying to drill it. After a few mins of spinning the plug. It will wear to a smaller diameter and you can then hook it out with a wire hook. The hammer spring is made of really poor metal. You can bend the spring with your fingers without much effort. Spring measures 12mm OD and is 65mm long and is made from 1.6mm wire. I straightened the spring. Installed an o-ring between the spring and hammer to lessen the twang. I used a tyre valve cap and drilled a 6mm hole in it. It fits onto spring retaining plug and the spring fits around the tyre valve. It fits perfect cos the valve cap is slightly tapered.This keeps the spring straight and will not bend again. i ground down the anti tamper grub screw and put a new helicoil spring in. shortening the grub screw means i can undo it with an allen key in the future without having to pull the helicoil spring out again. There is just enough space under the helicoil spring so that the grub screw can be undone. It has done the trick and the twang has been reduced. I did the sear mod to lighten the trigger. There was a fair amount of play between the sears. So i had a fair amount of trigger travel. I drilled and threaded the primary sear and fitted a 2mm grub screw. I can now adjust the play between the sears to zero. The trigger is now very light with a much shorter pull. I have slackened off the existing sear grub screw to make sure the sear is fully engaged onto the hammer. Lot of work but it is worth it.
I know this is a very old thread, but does the o ring prevent hammer bounce or just the twang. Also does the o ring just sit at the back of the hammer.
@@AnnihilatorAirguns why i am asking is because my evo marine has hammer bounce and i need to make a SSG (like in the viedo ) to stop the hammer bounce , like in the video you posted you said you drilled into the hammer out to allow the ssg rod that stops the sring , to go in the hammer when it is cocked ... obviously drilling into the hammer to allow the ssg to move into it will decrease the weight and that is why i asked if the weight will have an effect on the performance. Will drilli g into the hammer have an effect ? And if so how can i preven it ?
Buenos días amigo será que puedes hacer un video cambiando los orin ya que yo tengo un rifle de esos y no lo e podido usar porque ya se descartaron los orin te agradezco me ayudes con el video por favor gracias
Being in France I have a lot of trouble finding this type of spring the original is too small and too long to install an SSG system. Do you know where I can get this type of spring you use as well as a strengthening valve tip for my pro500? Thanks
@@sixsenssoitsenstessix1474 What gun is it? I cut the factory spring shorter. It's was too long to begin with. If your spring is smaller around then this probably won't work unless you can drill out the hammer in a lathe. The spring I use for the Breaker is .48" OD x 2" length. I use several wire diameters depending on the power level.
@@sixsenssoitsenstessix1474 that uses a different hammer and spring than the Puncher Breaker. You'll have to shorten the hammer and drill it out plus need new springs. To be honest I don't think it would even work unless you're gun is sub 12fpe. It will have trouble opening the valve at 250bar.
I never offered them. I use a twin spring set up now. I cut the factory spring down to 2-1/4" then put a 2" long inner spring that fits inside the factory spring. Works better for non regulated guns and higher power guns. I have everything marked out of stock because I am already booked with work for the next 3 weeks or more and not able to get more parts together just yet.
@@AnnihilatorAirguns thanks so much! Do you might know the size of the OEM spring to over lap it instead of cut it. Another question bud how do I adjust the hammer spring on my kral puncher breaker?, like what way do I turn and how much. Also would it give me more shoots an a better shot string.
@@covarrubias736 Factory spring has to be cut in order to help with the shot count. It has to be short enough to not to press the hammer in to the valve stem when the rifle is un-cocked. Inner spring size will vary based upon the power you're trying to achieve and the caliber. I usually don't use an inner spring on the 177 or a mild power tune in 22. In high power 22 I use a light inner spring and for a high power 25 I use a heavier spring. It's a lot of testing to get it where you want it.
@@AnnihilatorAirguns how long is the factory spring as you cut yours down to 2-1/4" maybe I can swap it out for a short heavy spring my gun right now does 28-30fpe *.22 I would like it to shoot 18.13 at 830-850fps but constantly over ~50 shots.
@@muhon19 it requires the hammer to be modified along with lots of testing of different springs and porting of the rifle. I can't just make make one and expect it to work.
![[페이스캠4K] 베이비몬스터 치키타 'FOREVER' (BABYMONSTER CHIQUITA FaceCam) @SBS Inkigayo 240707](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/x9VRNTV4VDI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this great idea, I already made it to my airgun, it really works, no more hammer bounce 😊😊😊
Damm good schooling MR HAMMER , awsome vidios
Very clever, I will be trying this along with a Lane reg very soon. Many thanks for your videos
How did it go?
An older video but how did it turn out for you, Couldn't find a part 2 for testing on this???
How about the valve stem breaking?
Thanks for your awesome guides! Is there any way to tune more power into the kral puncher?
That's what he's just done 🤣
What is the improvement after ssg? How many shot increases?
Do you have any more of the quiet kit for the kral mega 22 cal? If so could you send me one.
Is it possible to make to any PCP?
Took me 3 hours to get the hammer spring out cos it was bent. Mine is the new MK2 sub 12ft llb and its an absolute nightmare to get past the anti tamper guff.
Kral have used a helicoil spring in the thread that holds the rear trigger arm mount. Its the mount that holds the part that is connected to the trigger pull rod. The arm mount has a 6mm male thread but the hole in the block is 7mm. The helicoil spring reduces the hole thread size to 6mm.
Underneath the helicoil spring is a brass plug that has been hammered in,so that its difficult to get out of the threaded hole. Underneath this brass plug is the anti tamper grub screw.
I had to pull the helicoil out by twisting and pulling at the same time. It came out in three bits. The helicoil metal is so soft it breaks really easily.
I drilled a 2mm hole in the brass plug. Its mega difficult because the brass plug spins whilst you are trying to drill it. After a few mins of spinning the plug. It will wear to a smaller diameter and you can then hook it out with a wire hook.
The hammer spring is made of really poor metal. You can bend the spring with your fingers without much effort. Spring measures 12mm OD and is 65mm long and is made from 1.6mm wire.
I straightened the spring. Installed an o-ring between the spring and hammer to lessen the twang. I used a tyre valve cap and drilled a 6mm hole in it. It fits onto spring retaining plug and the spring fits around the tyre valve. It fits perfect cos the valve cap is slightly tapered.This keeps the spring straight and will not bend again.
i ground down the anti tamper grub screw and put a new helicoil spring in. shortening the grub screw means i can undo it with an allen key in the future without having to pull the helicoil spring out again. There is just enough space under the helicoil spring so that the grub screw can be undone.
It has done the trick and the twang has been reduced.
I did the sear mod to lighten the trigger. There was a fair amount of play between the sears. So i had a fair amount of trigger travel. I drilled and threaded the primary sear and fitted a 2mm grub screw. I can now adjust the play between the sears to zero. The trigger is now very light with a much shorter pull. I have slackened off the existing sear grub screw to make sure the sear is fully engaged onto the hammer.
Lot of work but it is worth it.
Beetlejuice 01 can I ask where you got a new helicoil spring from and why did you bother putting the grub screw back into the action ???
Beetlejuice 01 also what size helicoil did you use ??? Thank you
I know this is a very old thread, but does the o ring prevent hammer bounce or just the twang. Also does the o ring just sit at the back of the hammer.
@@iamspartacus8219 It nulls the twang of the spring.
👍👍👍
Can this be used on the Puncher breaker .25?
Not recommended on a 25. A twin spring setup with no preload works much better.
Will decreasing the hammer weight effect the performance of my kral puncher evo marine ?
It can. It has to be a balance of spring tension, hammer weight and fill pressure.
@@AnnihilatorAirguns why i am asking is because my evo marine has hammer bounce and i need to make a SSG (like in the viedo ) to stop the hammer bounce , like in the video you posted you said you drilled into the hammer out to allow the ssg rod that stops the sring , to go in the hammer when it is cocked ... obviously drilling into the hammer to allow the ssg to move into it will decrease the weight and that is why i asked if the weight will have an effect on the performance.
Will drilli g into the hammer have an effect ? And if so how can i preven it ?
How can I stop my Kral empire x from doing the same thing mate👍
A 2" OAL .480" diameter spring will do it. Just play with the wire diameter to get the desired power.
Buenos días amigo será que puedes hacer un video cambiando los orin ya que yo tengo un rifle de esos y no lo e podido usar porque ya se descartaron los orin te agradezco me ayudes con el video por favor gracias
Dose any one knows how to take the bottle off the NP02... I have a seal leak were the bottle fits on the block
Thank you
You need some heat on the threads and an adjustable pin spanner wrench.
@@AnnihilatorAirguns
Thank you do the spanner fit in the 3 holes.. Do u have a photo or a dewing what it looks like plz
Hi, where can I buy the whole block of trigger mechanism and pellet loading lever? Best regards
Where are you located?
@@AnnihilatorAirguns Italy
where do you get these mods. done or buy parts
Honey Cap farms top bar bee hives for sale I do these mods in my shop. Annihilatorairguns.com
please sell complet kit it will be great
How did you drill the hammer? I tried 3 different types of drill bits and none of them would drill the hammer.
Mark Fuess it's a drill bit for hardened metal And it was done in a lathe.
I used a lathe and a cobalt/carbide drill bit. So, what kind (or brand) is the drill bit you used?
I bought a new Carbide bit, all's good now.
Mark Fuess awesome, good luck.
Please help any info..I can't get the hammer spring screw Cap out to reveal spring..The metal is as soft as butter
You need a large wide blade screwdriver that fits fairly tight in the slot.
Hi is the gun a UK one if so it may have an anti-tamper pin drilled into the screw head.
Simon hall OK thank you do know where it would be.. Top/bottom.!
Janes-e should be bottom
On the Kral puncher breaker You have to remove the trigger rod pivot bolt at the back so you can see the pin.
Workkkkkkkkkkk 100%
do you make and sell these?
I do not. They require the hammer and spring guide to be modified and I don't have those spare parts to just offer.
hello what spring used you it looks wider and shorter than the original one?
It's a shortened version of the factory spring.
Being in France I have a lot of trouble finding this type of spring the original is too small and too long to install an SSG system. Do you know where I can get this type of spring you use as well as a strengthening valve tip for my pro500?
Thanks
@@sixsenssoitsenstessix1474 What gun is it? I cut the factory spring shorter. It's was too long to begin with. If your spring is smaller around then this probably won't work unless you can drill out the hammer in a lathe. The spring I use for the Breaker is .48" OD x 2" length. I use several wire diameters depending on the power level.
@@AnnihilatorAirguns puncher pro 500 in .22
@@sixsenssoitsenstessix1474 that uses a different hammer and spring than the Puncher Breaker. You'll have to shorten the hammer and drill it out plus need new springs. To be honest I don't think it would even work unless you're gun is sub 12fpe. It will have trouble opening the valve at 250bar.
Is this still available? And your website has nothing for my kral puncher breaker right now? :(
I never offered them. I use a twin spring set up now. I cut the factory spring down to 2-1/4" then put a 2" long inner spring that fits inside the factory spring. Works better for non regulated guns and higher power guns. I have everything marked out of stock because I am already booked with work for the next 3 weeks or more and not able to get more parts together just yet.
@@AnnihilatorAirguns thanks so much! Do you might know the size of the OEM spring to over lap it instead of cut it. Another question bud how do I adjust the hammer spring on my kral puncher breaker?, like what way do I turn and how much. Also would it give me more shoots an a better shot string.
@@covarrubias736 Factory spring has to be cut in order to help with the shot count. It has to be short enough to not to press the hammer in to the valve stem when the rifle is un-cocked. Inner spring size will vary based upon the power you're trying to achieve and the caliber. I usually don't use an inner spring on the 177 or a mild power tune in 22. In high power 22 I use a light inner spring and for a high power 25 I use a heavier spring. It's a lot of testing to get it where you want it.
@@AnnihilatorAirguns how long is the factory spring as you cut yours down to 2-1/4" maybe I can swap it out for a short heavy spring my gun right now does 28-30fpe *.22 I would like it to shoot 18.13 at 830-850fps but constantly over ~50 shots.
@@covarrubias736 factory spring is about 2.8"
Where can i buy this
Not currently being built by me. You or someone could use the design to make your own.
@@AnnihilatorAirguns where about your location i can pay you if you make one for me
@@muhon19 it requires the hammer to be modified along with lots of testing of different springs and porting of the rifle. I can't just make make one and expect it to work.
@@AnnihilatorAirguns ok my friend
Do you sell there’s
I do not.
Co to jest ??
Hi! looks like grate edea! That should give you 40% more shots, less vibration and better accuracy
I'm quite curious about this system. Subscribed and hit the 🔔 😀