You are a star, just what I needed. Got a cheap vfr a few days ago, been getting all the bodges sorted for Tuesday mot. Took it off the front paddock stand this afternoon and a fork seal blew. This has just reminded me how to do it. Thank you.
You're very welcome. There's carbs and brakes explained too in other vids. Would you be kind enough to hit the subscribe button? I won't make a penny from my channel until I have 1000 subscribers.
I should have used a regular allen key for my first loosening attempt on the first fork. I used a 'ball-end' in a shallow socket! Doh!😂 I'd learned by the second leg.
Enjoyed that one. I got a professional to do my forks. Question for you. Is it possible to rep,ace the fork spring from above without pulling the forks to bits. Reason being is that I have a spare set of rebuilt forks fully refurbished with original progressive springs and am considering swapping them over to a new spring.
Haven't done it, but I think it is. In the video, I remove the preload adjusters to get access to fill the stanctions. Those preload adjusters are screwed onto a long, threaded rod, and locked on with a nut. When you see me tightening two 14mm spanners against each other, that's the rod. On the rod, below the 14mm headed bolt, is a large, slotted washer. I reckon if you unsrewed the 14mm headed nut a bit, you could remove the washer, and the spring could be beneath.
@@TheSpannerLab thanks that what I thought that it maybe possible to do that and withdraw all the bits from the top. The forks are also filled with 5W oil which is not heavy enough and causing a chatter/ patter from the front end. My current fitted forks have a linear spring and 10W which is much better without the latter and more feel.
You are a star, just what I needed.
Got a cheap vfr a few days ago, been getting all the bodges sorted for Tuesday mot.
Took it off the front paddock stand this afternoon and a fork seal blew.
This has just reminded me how to do it.
Thank you.
You're very welcome. There's carbs and brakes explained too in other vids.
Would you be kind enough to hit the subscribe button?
I won't make a penny from my channel until I have 1000 subscribers.
Those allen headed bolts in bottom of fork leg are often 'locktited' to keep them in place. Judicial use of heat can help loosen them.
I should have used a regular allen key for my first loosening attempt on the first fork. I used a 'ball-end' in a shallow socket!
Doh!😂 I'd learned by the second leg.
@@TheSpannerLabAnd “munted” it! What a mint word!
@@TheSpannerLab I am always ' learning '.
Impact wrench! 1/4 drive!
Enjoyed that one. I got a professional to do my forks. Question for you. Is it possible to rep,ace the fork spring from above without pulling the forks to bits. Reason being is that I have a spare set of rebuilt forks fully refurbished with original progressive springs and am considering swapping them over to a new spring.
Haven't done it, but I think it is.
In the video, I remove the preload adjusters to get access to fill the stanctions.
Those preload adjusters are screwed onto a long, threaded rod, and locked on with a nut.
When you see me tightening two 14mm spanners against each other, that's the rod. On the rod, below the 14mm headed bolt, is a large, slotted washer.
I reckon if you unsrewed the 14mm headed nut a bit, you could remove the washer, and the spring could be beneath.
@@TheSpannerLab thanks that what I thought that it maybe possible to do that and withdraw all the bits from the top. The forks are also filled with 5W oil which is not heavy enough and causing a chatter/ patter from the front end. My current fitted forks have a linear spring and 10W which is much better without the latter and more feel.