This method works very well. If there is enough space then you can shrink a second layer. I also used rubber cement for the cracks and let it set for a few days before applying the heat shrink tubing.
I like the idea. Great thinking. An even better solution may adding some adhesive on the boot before you put the heat shrink on. Just to make sure all the cracks are filled. But anyway, great idea.
I was thinking the same ad some epoxy before it shrinks would help a lot. But I've just ordered some brand new intakes for 6 USD ebay... not worth the hassle to fix old ones.
I'm pretty sure you can find heat shrink tubing with adhesive inside already that melts and dries when you heat it up. Usually its used on ships and boats to stop salt water from getting into electrical components
I have that same table. You don't think air is going to go around the heat shrink. You might smear siliicone over the boot and let it partially dry before using the heat shrink.
Every time this guy talks all I can hear in my head is "hit him Jimmies brother!" As his voice reminds me of the guy from Superbad with the period stain girlfriend.
I'm in the process of doing an initial inspection on a 1977 PE250.I pulled the carb off, cleaned it out really well and upon instalation I noticed that I tore the boot from the carb to the cylinder head... I cleaned it really well with brake clean and spread 1/4" thick of permatex "Ultra Black" gasket maker (fuel friendly) all around to seal all the old cracks. I'm not sure if it will work to be honest, but if it doesn't then I'm only out a few bucks and I'll have to order areplacement down the road. I'm hoping this stuff will bond well yet still be flexible.That and I don't really plan on removing the carb again. The other though which crossed my mind was to use lots of coats of 'liquid tape' that is normally brushed over bare connections then splicing into wires... or you loop the wire by the connector and dip them right into the bottle and let dry.The result is a flexible rubber coating. Hell I might even use that over top tomorrow
Hey man I have the same.bike! I have it street legal and my boot finally crapped out. Just tried the fiber tape method with rtv black. Hoping it works. How did yours turn out?
They'll also continue to shrink and will split around the vacuum tube and around the mounting holes. It's delaying the inevitable by days/weeks, just buy new boots.
We had the bike for about a year before it was sold, there were no issues during that time. We used carb cleaner while rebuilding the carbs but I don't remember if we used any when cleaning the boots.
Hey buddy thanks for the upload I've been looking for a solution to my cracked intake boot for my dirt bike I definitely will be trying it this weekend thanks a lot great video help me a bunch
that crack looks superficial. did it actually go deep enough to be right through to the inside? Ive seed those same crack on my ktm dirt bike but when inspected with light on the inside there is actually no issue.
thanks for the the great idea. If it works or not it's a great start. I have an 83 honda xl250R where my boot was so brittle it broke around where the bolts seal to the intake. hope this works for me. once again thanks for the creative idea. cheers
The heat shrink alone won't prevent the air leak. You need something to fill and adhere to the cavity. Silicone the crack first and then cover with heat shrink.
Awesome! Gotta older sled an the boots both have some slight cracking. Not bad tho. I coated em with flex seal but after seeing this I'm gonna double up an do this to. It's impossible to find new boots for the reed valves i have. Only other option would be new reed valves and boots. Don't really feel like droppin $350 into a $300 sled right now lol. Kinda wild new boots cost sooo much, i see kids toys at the dollar store that are more "sophisticated" lol.
The flange part of my intake boot that bolts onto the engine is square and is about 3 1/8..what size heat shrink wrap should I get to go around the square flange 3 1/8 part and the round probably 2 inch diameter part?
The heat shrink tubing in general shrinks 2:1 so if you were to get a 3.5 inch diameter heat shrink tube and heated it, the end diameter would shrink down to 1.75 inches.
The worn out carb boots wouldn't cause the exhaust system to be so loud, most likely it is rusting within the muffler itself thats causing the loud noise.
@@motorcyclerebuild6937 yea you’re right, I was literally just thinking about that right now. I’m actually gonna try this heat shrinking method and see how it goes. I appreciate you answering back! Have a good one man.
It held up without any issues until the bike was sold a year later. If I were to do it again I would reccomend coating the inside of the heat shrink with an adhesive to provide the best possible seal.
Still don't understand why they don't make a metal boot that is attached to the carburetor and bolts straight on. Was even thinking about getting my carburetor boot welded to the carburetor by that metal part inside of it.
Yeah, but where do you find such big diameter heat shrink? I want to do this for the boots on my bike, but the electrical supply places I have gone to have been assuring me that they don't really make it bigger than 2" diametre
The black piece from the bike is the carburator boot. It connects the motorcycles air filter to the carburator. The other black piece is the heat shrink tubing, it is the same heat shrink used to cover small wires after soldering, this was just a very large size.
also serious question do I have to have a friend to pull that black heat shrink for me or do you think I can do that myself I don't have any friends LOL but for real
I was not sure of the exact diameter as this video was filmed a few years ago however the heat shrink shrank at a ratio of 2:1. I would recommend buying a diameter slightly larger than the carb boot if you are attempting this.
$100 for a set of four!! Try more like $150 + Just one for lousy old ski-doo single cylinder is closing in on $30. In any event I fixed mine temporarily using Magic Wrap. I'll see how it stands up. But yes these rubber carb adapters don't seem to hold up over time. Nice video though.
Монифолд трескается от высокой температуры.вот думаю между головкой блока и монифолдом поставить прокладку из эбонита.через нее не будет греться этот монифолд
easier way is to use Sugru... I fixed all my carb rubbers on my 1998 yamaha xj900s diversion with Sugru... filled the holes.. no move cracks or gashes... no move vacuum leaks
Ghost_Control the bike should start even with damaged boots. New boots would just prevent air leaks from messing with your idle. If your bike isnt able to start I would check to see if the carbs are clogged or if all sparkplugs are firing
motorcycle rebuild in going to run some sea foam through the carbs with premium gas. Hopefully that helps it. We did get it started a few times, it's just very difficult to get started.
Yes It worked during the time that we had the bike. For a more permanent result you can use a heat shrink with adhesive to provide a longer lasting seal.
+Brian Damiani Any electronics supply store that sells wiring and soldering equipment will have heat shrink tubing. If you can't find it in there, it is readily available online.
Sending carbs away, got my bike rebuilt and still hard to start. Has to be clogged up carb jets and shit. There goes half my Fucking riding season. Such a piss off.
Jaime Espino could be a number of reasons why your bike isnt riding as well. I would start with checking spark plugs and changing the air filter before you move on to the carburators.
This will not work or hold up. !!!! Clean them good with ether or brake cleaner and use super glue in all the cracks or 5 minute epoxy you can brush it on with a flux brush and do the whole boot. !!! Use Indian Head sealant to put them back on the motor. !!!!
You have a skill to become a local government stuff. (find a practical tentative solution to keep the next 2-3 years)(Postpone the fundamental decision and treatment)
Ok, if you can't find new boots it's a good fix (also if your stuck somewhere), but chances are that maybe sometime later it won't quite seal properly and you'll get poor running. Also how can you be sure that air isn't getting past that tubing. Personally I would bite the bullet and buy the boots, or at least one of them (about $30)
you can buy anything. If you want to spend $100.00 vs $10 be my guest. But remember that for many 30, 40 or 50 year old motorcycles it is very hard to find replacement.
I gave this technique a go. check out the video to see how it lasts after running the engine for over 500 kms th-cam.com/video/5eWWR7NTT1c/w-d-xo.html thanks for the inspiration and how to.
As a bike mechanic, I thank you for this idea. To make it even better, use heat shrink with adhesive added to it.
This method works very well. If there is enough space then you can shrink a second layer.
I also used rubber cement for the cracks and let it set for a few days before applying the heat shrink tubing.
I like the idea. Great thinking. An even better solution may adding some adhesive on the boot before you put the heat shrink on. Just to make sure all the cracks are filled. But anyway, great idea.
what kind of adhesive would you recommend
@@carlweiss9337 Try the Marine grade heat shrink, it already has the adhesive inside and when you heat it, everything gets sealed!
I was thinking the same ad some epoxy before it shrinks would help a lot. But I've just ordered some brand new intakes for 6 USD ebay... not worth the hassle to fix old ones.
@@bernek9000 well things add up. 4 boots will be at least 25 bucks.
I'm pretty sure you can find heat shrink tubing with adhesive inside already that melts and dries when you heat it up. Usually its used on ships and boats to stop salt water from getting into electrical components
I have that same table. You don't think air is going to go around the heat shrink. You might smear siliicone over the boot and let it partially dry before using the heat shrink.
Every time this guy talks all I can hear in my head is "hit him Jimmies brother!" As his voice reminds me of the guy from Superbad with the period stain girlfriend.
GREAT!! ! You just gave me an idea to solve a vacuum leak on my Porsche 911 and save $$$!
Where can I find large size heat shrink?
Amazonn 4 years later...
I'm in the process of doing an initial inspection on a 1977 PE250.I pulled the carb off, cleaned it out really well and upon instalation I noticed that I tore the boot from the carb to the cylinder head...
I cleaned it really well with brake clean and spread 1/4" thick of permatex "Ultra Black" gasket maker (fuel friendly) all around to seal all the old cracks.
I'm not sure if it will work to be honest, but if it doesn't then I'm only out a few bucks and I'll have to order areplacement down the road.
I'm hoping this stuff will bond well yet still be flexible.That and I don't really plan on removing the carb again.
The other though which crossed my mind was to use lots of coats of 'liquid tape' that is normally brushed over bare connections then splicing into wires... or you loop the wire by the connector and dip them right into the bottle and let dry.The result is a flexible rubber coating.
Hell I might even use that over top tomorrow
Hey man I have the same.bike! I have it street legal and my boot finally crapped out. Just tried the fiber tape method with rtv black. Hoping it works. How did yours turn out?
great idea! and I was just looking at a set of boots for $100 for four rubber boots! thank you
nice idea, but it didn't look like it was air tight.
They'll also continue to shrink and will split around the vacuum tube and around the mounting holes. It's delaying the inevitable by days/weeks, just buy new boots.
@@James_Sovereign what about using gasket maker or plastic weld ?
I have a rm250 and a new boot cost over 200 if you happen to find one@@James_Sovereign
So how long did it last? Did you clean it first? And with what, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, etc? Good luck to you boys. And thanks for this vid.
We had the bike for about a year before it was sold, there were no issues during that time. We used carb cleaner while rebuilding the carbs but I don't remember if we used any when cleaning the boots.
were I can find this Sleeve (heat shrink tubing) ??
This is a great idea at my last job we had shrink tubing that was lined with epoxy that would have definitely make this air tight.
Hey buddy thanks for the upload I've been looking for a solution to my cracked intake boot for my dirt bike I definitely will be trying it this weekend thanks a lot great video help me a bunch
Love the use of the corona ma man. Respect from Scotland
that crack looks superficial. did it actually go deep enough to be right through to the inside? Ive seed those same crack on my ktm dirt bike but when inspected with light on the inside there is actually no issue.
Wow people this is a great job thx a lot for your idea
I have a rm250 with a broken intake and the only new one i could find was 250€😢
thanks for the the great idea. If it works or not it's a great start. I have an 83 honda xl250R where my boot was so brittle it broke around where the bolts seal to the intake. hope this works for me. once again thanks for the creative idea. cheers
The heat shrink alone won't prevent the air leak. You need something to fill and adhere to the cavity. Silicone the crack first and then cover with heat shrink.
Awesome! Gotta older sled an the boots both have some slight cracking. Not bad tho. I coated em with flex seal but after seeing this I'm gonna double up an do this to. It's impossible to find new boots for the reed valves i have. Only other option would be new reed valves and boots. Don't really feel like droppin $350 into a $300 sled right now lol. Kinda wild new boots cost sooo much, i see kids toys at the dollar store that are more "sophisticated" lol.
holy shit I've been thinking about this forever ty electrician man
where did you purchase your heat shrink
The flange part of my intake boot that bolts onto the engine is square and is about 3 1/8..what size heat shrink wrap should I get to go around the square flange 3 1/8 part and the round probably 2 inch diameter part?
The heat shrink tubing in general shrinks 2:1 so if you were to get a 3.5 inch diameter heat shrink tube and heated it, the end diameter would shrink down to 1.75 inches.
Definitely going to try this on my kdx. A new boot costs upwards of $100.
I have an 03 CR250R. The boot between the carburetor and Reed cage is virtually nonexistent for my bike
@@331motosame , i have a rm250 and you can only get used ones and people still ask 100 for them
Is that Corona bottle foreshadowing something?
Awesome. Where do you buy that larger size shrink tubing?
I purchased it from an electronics supply store near me, if you are unable to find it you might have to order it online through AliExpress.
Sorry for the stupid question, but I can’t seem to find any answer on what the nipple on carburador boots is for and is it needed or can it be sealed?
Thank you for making this video brilliant................
Where did you get that heat shrink? What size is it?
Amazon Size depends on the circumference of ur Intake boot
I like this idea, but what is the heat shrink tube size?
rewatch the video, he tells you :)
Does worn or broken manifolds cause the exhaust system to be so loud?
The worn out carb boots wouldn't cause the exhaust system to be so loud, most likely it is rusting within the muffler itself thats causing the loud noise.
Would JB Weld work to seal the cracks?
JB would work but in it is a bit too rigid. It might not bond too well on the rubber but I haven't tested it.
@@motorcyclerebuild6937 yea you’re right, I was literally just thinking about that right now. I’m actually gonna try this heat shrinking method and see how it goes. I appreciate you answering back! Have a good one man.
So how did it hold up? Did it stretch or tear at all?
It held up without any issues until the bike was sold a year later. If I were to do it again I would reccomend coating the inside of the heat shrink with an adhesive to provide the best possible seal.
@@motorcyclerebuild6937 what would be the most suitable adhesive? rtv? vulcanizing rubber?
@@quinnymandude1234 rtv would work. Some heat shrink even has adhesive built into it if you are able to find that
you should tell use what size the shrink tubing is and were to buy it at
Sicaflex windscreen rubber glue in the cracks works a treat
Still don't understand why they don't make a metal boot that is attached to the carburetor and bolts straight on. Was even thinking about getting my carburetor boot welded to the carburetor by that metal part inside of it.
if i were to use this idea i would give it a coat of adhesive before shrinking the tube that way it would be perfectly sealed
I didnt finish the video but..... where did you find heat shrink tubing that big lol!
it is really hard to find it. im still looking for it
@@muammerocak4338 no worries man I can check around. Thanks for getting back with me though!
@@tokin420nchokin no problem dude. have a nice day
Oh ! Hello Dr. Hex
It really helped me
Something else you cluld try & its cheaper is spray on Plasti-Dip available at Wal-Mart, Autozone, etc. & lots of great colors too!!
were can you buy that at
Ryan Green www.ebay.com/itm/8-INCHES-3-0-Black-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-2-1-Ratio-feet-foot-ft-to-U-S-3-80mm-/201930492031
I just put a rubber glue (goop) over the cracks and it worked perfectly.
Gran idea, desde arg.
could you fix it with plasti dip?
No plastidip would be too weak and degrade the moment fuel got on it.
What the namecall black pipe a kind. Please
You can also use motorcycle tube. It works perfectly
But can you shrink it with heat?
great idea...never seen this kind of material before :/
+Kappa Braap It's just heat shrink tubing used for electrical wires, just in a much larger diameter
Yeah, but where do you find such big diameter heat shrink?
I want to do this for the boots on my bike, but the electrical supply places I have gone to have been assuring me that they don't really make it bigger than 2" diametre
john stillwell www.ebay.com/itm/8-INCHES-3-0-Black-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-2-1-Ratio-feet-foot-ft-to-U-S-3-80mm-/201930492031
Can i put peace from bicycle tyre 😀
ad some hotglue or silicon to the main crack
I would just speed the $100 and get new boots. Looks like that's what I may have to do on my 1985 Nighthawk. How much did you spend on your project?
What is it black piece ?
The black piece from the bike is the carburator boot. It connects the motorcycles air filter to the carburator. The other black piece is the heat shrink tubing, it is the same heat shrink used to cover small wires after soldering, this was just a very large size.
I'm unable to find 55mm heat shrink tubing anywhere in the UK, sources anyone?
You should try searching for it online on AliExpress, they should have it available.
Cool,easy, no description, might not be fuel and heat resistant, aliexpress tis a strange place but thanks ,I'll give it a go
also serious question do I have to have a friend to pull that black heat shrink for me or do you think I can do that myself I don't have any friends LOL but for real
i'll be your friend, let's get it done
What diameter is that wrap ??
I was not sure of the exact diameter as this video was filmed a few years ago however the heat shrink shrank at a ratio of 2:1. I would recommend buying a diameter slightly larger than the carb boot if you are attempting this.
Thank you for this..
What is that manifold I need to buy one I been looking every were thanks
Thank you so much really helpful
$100 for a set of four!! Try more like $150 + Just one for lousy old ski-doo single cylinder is closing in on $30. In any event I fixed mine temporarily using Magic Wrap. I'll see how it stands up. But yes these rubber carb adapters don't seem to hold up over time. Nice video though.
Монифолд трескается от высокой температуры.вот думаю между головкой блока и монифолдом поставить прокладку из эбонита.через нее не будет греться этот монифолд
Ill try it, thanks !!
I would take a dremel and shave away at the crack, then fill with a rubber cement or rtv
that’s called an intake manifold
I think some hubba bubba bubble gum would do the trick !!!! Theres no way that could be air tight !!!
easier way is to use Sugru... I fixed all my carb rubbers on my 1998 yamaha xj900s diversion with Sugru... filled the holes.. no move cracks or gashes... no move vacuum leaks
How long does Sugru last?
is it heat resistant?
yes !! thanks man, save my day. but i'm using a gum
Buy a ub. Bji
good looks
Would new boots help mine to start the bike? The o rings were broken and boots cracked and dry. I have new boots, haven't installed on bike yet
Ghost_Control the bike should start even with damaged boots. New boots would just prevent air leaks from messing with your idle. If your bike isnt able to start I would check to see if the carbs are clogged or if all sparkplugs are firing
motorcycle rebuild in going to run some sea foam through the carbs with premium gas. Hopefully that helps it. We did get it started a few times, it's just very difficult to get started.
Just use plastidip or flex-seal.
are those heat resistant?
The boots are 15 bucks on ebay
Do this work please
Yes It worked during the time that we had the bike. For a more permanent result you can use a heat shrink with adhesive to provide a longer lasting seal.
@@motorcyclerebuild6937 thank you I will try it
where did you buy the tubing
+Brian Damiani Any electronics supply store that sells wiring and soldering equipment will have heat shrink tubing. If you can't find it in there, it is readily available online.
motorcycle rebuild 
Sending carbs away, got my bike rebuilt and still hard to start. Has to be clogged up carb jets and shit. There goes half my Fucking riding season. Such a piss off.
waste of time. Use liquid gasket silicone to seal them. It will look ugly, but it will 100% do the job (tested)
Smart
i ended up buying new boots for my 1980 honda for 90$
The official ones from Honda? I think you could find imitation parts cheaper than this.
it would be an easy fix if you could find the materials easy. no one carries it that fat
juntjoo nunya www.ebay.com/itm/8-INCHES-3-0-Black-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-2-1-Ratio-feet-foot-ft-to-U-S-3-80mm-/201930492031
lol 100$ I just ordered one for 12$ free 2 shipping on Amazon
Is that why my bike doesn’t ride as smooth as before?
Jaime Espino could be a number of reasons why your bike isnt riding as well. I would start with checking spark plugs and changing the air filter before you move on to the carburators.
I would have used liquid electric tape and brushed it on over it
Awesome :)
Great idea - buy a new one
this old cheap junk makes a people nuts!
This will not work or hold up. !!!! Clean them good with ether or brake cleaner and use super glue in all the cracks or 5 minute epoxy you can brush it on with a flux brush and do the whole boot. !!! Use Indian Head sealant to put them back on the motor. !!!!
is super glue heat resistant enough?
🤣 how did that work for ya?
Jeff singer
That will not work.....
You have a skill to become a local government stuff.
(find a practical tentative solution to keep the next 2-3 years)(Postpone the fundamental decision and treatment)
just buy new boots
Dave Watts why
Ok, if you can't find new boots it's a good fix (also if your stuck somewhere), but chances are that maybe sometime later it won't quite seal properly and you'll get poor running. Also how can you be sure that air isn't getting past that tubing. Personally I would bite the bullet and buy the boots, or at least one of them (about $30)
How about just buy a new rubber boot
first you have to drink a corona and smoke 30 cigarettes
Haha I'm here cuz I don't want to pay 80 for one
Or put it on a cookie sheet and stick it in your oven (just don't tell your wife what you're doing!) . ;-)
that will not be air tight my man
uh - just buy new boots?
you can buy anything. If you want to spend $100.00 vs $10 be my guest. But remember that for many 30, 40 or 50 year old motorcycles it is very hard to find replacement.
Try impossible to find a replacement.
Jeff JerkOff ^^^^^^^ with another stupid comment thanks STFU!
I gave this technique a go. check out the video to see how it lasts after running the engine for over 500 kms
th-cam.com/video/5eWWR7NTT1c/w-d-xo.html
thanks for the inspiration and how to.
Never work ... just a timewasting bodge ... buy a new carb mount FFS
It did work, and carb boots are not always easy to come by, or affordable, especially in the third world.