Making a Lathe Quick Change Tool Holder Rack
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.พ. 2021
- Time to solve an annoying problem for my lathe toolholders. I keep my Aloris CA quick change tool holders in one of the drawers of my Lista cabinet, and they slide around. I don't have a 3D printer so I made a rack the old fashioned way- steel!
I also experiment with a solid carbide drill from Kennametal, a GoDrill.
Contact me:
AlwaysSunnyintheShop@gmail.com - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Hello Aaron,
Nice work and a cool design... Sorry I don't know the answer with regard to the tailstock chuck question but do hope you video the build for us.
Take care.
Paul,,
Really nice simple and effective solution for the tool holders, like that alot, might have to use that design myself.
Using shrink tubing on the dowels would help protect the tool holder.
Yes your on the right path one in the chuck one in the backing plate. Will reduce over all stick out
I made a rack for my tool holders that mounts behind the lathe within easy reach. I find it vastly more convenient than the drawer I used to have them in. Tools are either in the rack or on the tool post. No clutter this way. I made it out of 16 gauge stainless, waterjet cut and folded. Plenty strong and light weight. Holds 24 tools. I could make another and have a double row. I have a rack for 5C collets and tail stock tools back there within reach too.
A rack would be nice, but it’s so dusty in here that I try to keep everything under cover when I’m not using it. This works for now.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop now that you have them on this plate, you could make a mount for the plate, set it on there as a rack as is. You could put a cover over them, or even move the whole rack back and forth, though I am not sure how practical it is. Maybe if it sat on some pins rather that being screwed down...
It’s really heavy with the tool holders on it, so moving it around doesn’t sound like fun to me. The good thing is that this drawer is right behind me when I’m standing at the lathe, so I just turn around without having to take any steps.
The best solutions are simple and effective
I loved that slo-mo close up shot of the deburring...awesome!!! Keep them coming Aaron, great job!!!
Thanks! I thought it was cool, too. I'll get a better angle in the future to try again.
Nice job on the tool holder!
Nice looking job! Keeps them clean too. Looking forward to seeing what you have in mind for your other pieces.
Keep them coming Aaron, great job!!
You can set up the 2 bearings like an axle of a trailer/front end of a rear-wheel-drive car
French cleat system and hang them near lathe.You already have a angle on tool holders so all you need is to mount a peace of flat steel with some washers on the back to the wall.
Just an idea if you want dirt cheap way to hold it always near your reach.
I made a French cleat system for mine that sits right over my lathe. While I'm glad I did it just to clear up some space on my bench, I'm going to be remaking a version very similar to what he shows in this video (wall mounted with a slight pitch to help them stay in place). The tool holders are much narrower than they are tall, especially with the height adjustment screw sticking out, you can get a lot more tools in the same amount of space the way he does it in this video.
I like your idea for the tool holder, I've been working on a design for my holders and I think I'm going to use your idea. So I thank you!
Great job loved the presentation
And yet another gem from "our" Mr Aaron. Thank you kind Sir for sharing your Jesus given, innate, talents with us. We love you.
Great video mate great to see you back stay safe all the best
Answer to tailstock is use an automotive style wheel bearing they are angular ball bearings and will take speed and load. Nice job on the draw.
These? I think the double row bearings fits your need for tailstock chuck. www.skf.com/au/products/rolling-bearings/ball-bearings/angular-contact-ball-bearings
The rack for your Aloris tool holders is looking good. Sounds like you're on the right track for the tail stock mounted four jaw. By installing one bearing in the back of the chuck and one on the mounting plate should give the bearings a decent amount of separation. I would imagine that automotive wheel bearings might be a little cheaper than some other sizes.
Great idea on the drawer guide for toolposts.
Ref Tailstock chuck, I've copied mine from Cutting Edge Engineering Australia as well, I used Timken taper roller bearings SET1015, 30 Id X 62 od, I used a Double oil seal size 35 X 62 x 10 mm thick seal for the rear on my adapter.
Looking forward to an Aron take on it.
Thanks for sharing.
Regards John.
Great idea!
I did something similar on my lathe. Since I have a splash guard what I did was use 1/4 x 20 rivet nuts then cut the heads of the proper length of 1/4 bolts. Since I have B size holders this holds my most used tools right on the splash guard. I like the idea of not have them moving around. In a drawer. Good job
I can imagine going with the slip fit holes so the pins are movable... and drilling more holes to accommodate other arrangements as tools change. I guess the pins could be half the length too but the full length probably makes it easier to get the tool on it. Great project.
Not sure it would work but automotive style press in wheel bearings would be nice. They are basically two bearings in one outer shell. If they cal handle a few tons of weight and over 100 mph I can't see why not in a lathe. I do know there are some that need to be torqued down ( fwd / 4wd ) but other ones are pre-loaded ( solid hub w/ no axle ) and would work by pressing in your MT5 machined end.
Enjoyed...
Another solution to holding carbide and other hard shank tools is to use a chuck with diamond impregnated jaws. Don't ask the cost of an Albrecht chuck with diamond jaws if you have a cardiac condition
I see a set of ER collets in you future for holding 'non std' drills, EM's, reamers, etc...
did you watch cutting edges video on how he made his tailstock chuck? Im also looking into making one. I turn long pipe often and the chuck on the tailstock would be nice. was also wandering how long it was going to take for other makers to build one.
th-cam.com/video/-E1NkckJdbs/w-d-xo.html
I would also add a taper to the top of the pins.
Have you considered angular contact bearings for your tailstock chuck? They will take axial and radial loads but they do need a small preload so you'd have to figure out a way to do that.
2 balls and a thrust is common in tail stocks and easier to setup than 2 tapered rollers would be.
2 balls and a thrust is pretty common around here too!
Holistically, it's not an axial or radial load you're fighting with, but a "moment load" trying to twist the chuckface away from perpendicular to the spindle. That "torque" is magnified by the force being applied inches away from the bearings.
I wonder if axial load handling is required at "all". Unlike a center - there's no reason to "push" axially to impart control (e.g. steady rests don't impart any axial control). Maybe 2 ball (or even roller) are all you need. (I love Brian's insight)
Angular contact bearings would be worth looking at
Might get a set of stem bearing for a motorcross bike cheap. This would come with races and bearing. With the bonus you could steal torque specs from a shop manual.
Im building a 3 and 4 jaw live for my tailstock also.
If you go into your 4 jaw, you will lose depth if you need the part to come into the jaws. I don’t think this would be a huge problem, but it might be worth considering. It also might be worth a thought to keep the chuck and the backing plate separate, you’re probably not concerned about a future use, but maybe there’s some kind of reason this would be a good idea.
A question as well, the chick has 4 mounting holes, would adding 4 more help keeping the plate and the check aligned, centered, parallel, etc...? Btw, I really like this idea, I look forward to seeing it implemented.
More lathe work pleas
The pins don't need to be full length and they also need an angled radiussed end preparation to allow easy tool holder entry.
Full length makes it easier to get the tool started in position. The ‘top’ end of the pin has the radius on it.
huh that is smart
Smart ? ...... pretty........Pretty Smart ! Lol !
I just found your channel so excuse the dumb question. What are you using to power your large machines?
I have a nice size shop but I only have a 60 amp breaker box. I would love to add a larger compressor, but I’m concerned with available power... Not electricity savvy so I’m not sure what’s available. I’ve heard of phase converters, know nothing more about them.
Love your channel by the way!! Spent 25+ years working in a machine shop, so pardon my machinist envy...
Thanks Marty. I have VFD’s for my lathe and mill, and a small (junky) phase converter for my pantograph since it has a two speed motor. I’m very lucky and have 400amp electrical service to my house so I’ve had plenty of amps to go around. VFD’s are nice because you can ramp up the motor so it doesn’t draw a bunch of current on startup, but that’s the reality with an air compressor- they use an enormous amount of electricity on startup. I have a 50 amp breaker on my 5 hp air compressor and it needs all of that or it would trip due to the inrush current.
I'd rather have lathe holders on a rack on the lathe, Oxtool made big dia. bearing low profile quill chuck , Edge precision made his tail stock chuck clamp on tail stock quill,very ridged
Well worth using a countersingk in a battery drill rather than that Noga one looking at your video
Just put a piece of 1/16" rubber mat under it, wont slip...ever with that weight on it
You need to mount your tool holders closer to the lathe
I would suggest boring out the chiuk body for a double angular-contact bearing.
You might need to shorten the jaw screws. But, so what. They are yours.
Something like simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p60218/Koyo-DAC3055WCS31-Double-Row-Wheel-Bearing-With-Split-Inner-Ring-30x55x32mm/product_info.html
As that has a split inner so that you can arrange to have adjustable preload.
I don't think you need much of a backplate, just enough to retain the bearings, and maybe to hold the jaw screw forks in, if you are paranoid.
On the subject of tool storage. When I made the chip tray / back for my lathe I put a tool shelf on the top. It has turned out to be very convenient:
photos.app.goo.gl/v6QfRK4MPLdTxKFDA
Though, on your lathe the reach to such a shelf might be excessive. (There is an LED strip worklight under the shelf)
wouldn't a magnetic strip work
I'd definitely hit up Kurtis via email. I reckon he'd jump to give you some solid advice.
Hiya Aaron
look into angular contact bearings, the preload is controlled by the inside faces. tapered roller bearings require that you control the preload. If you do not want to deal with preload use two deep grove or pin roller bearings and a thrust bearing. www.nsk.com/common/data/ctrgPdf/e1250.pdf
The reamer was running too fast tbh have you learnt how to grind a 4 facet drill yet Adam?
It is a method which allows a drill to stay on centre with out a start hole.
You grind the front lead edges so they dissect through the centre line of the drill with the clearance angle being behind them up to the centre line. Hence 4 facet like you see on a diamond.
It seemed fast to me, but I was on the low end of the speed recommendation of 70-100 SFM. (70*3.82)/.374= 715 RPM. No I haven't tried to grind a 4 facet drill.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop Adam you don't have to do the maths with me re speed and feed as I worked a bridge port for 5 years with no dro or power feed.
The old saying if it looks right it is, If it looks wrong then stop.
Was just explaining where I got that speed from. My name’s not Adam, btw.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop ok Aaron lol still too fast....
Dowel pins not expensive?? What's your daily ride a Rolls-Royce?? Fuck me dowel pins are an arm and a leg price here in the uk lol
Hmm are we talking gage pins? Those are expensive. Dowel pins are less than a dollar each for this size and I got them cheaper from the company I work for.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop no I was not talking gauge pins just ordinary ones. There used to be a fantastic engineers suppliers about two miles away from me here on the edge of East London, been there since the 1950's at least but they went to the wall about 10 years ago when we lost a great deal of manufacturing companies all around the area that they serviced, after the 2009 stock market crash and the following recession. I used them all the time and now I have to buy on line and eBay ain't cheep for individual pieces of engineering stuff. In fact I don't think eBay is cheap for anything I seem to want these days!